Transmission Servicing w/ATF, VCDS, Adaptions PLUS Mount, Insert & Billet X-Brace | Audi A4 B8
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- Опубликовано: 15 июл 2024
- On the ZF 6HP-28 (0B6) transmission found in the B8 A4, I chase down some clunking by changing the ATF with ZF Lifeguard 8, change the transmission fluid filter, upgrade to the @034motorsport mount and insert, change the center differential fluid and swap out the x-brace to the @ecstuning billet x-brace. And, toss a little @liquimolywebtv in the rear diff. This was completed on a 2009 Audi A4 2.0 CAEB with a 6 speed automatic transmission with 180,000 kms.
Featured tools:
Performance Tool Fluid Pump - geni.us/PT-fluidpump-w1139
Fluid Drip Tray - geni.us/driptray
ATF Filler Adapters/Nozzles - geni.us/atf-filler-adapter-kit
Irwin/Hansen Metric Tap & Die Set - geni.us/irwin-metric-tapdieset
Project Materials:
ZF Lifeguard 8 x 6L (used 5.5L+): ZFS-S671090312
Transmission filter: 0B6325429 / ELR-717040
Transmission pan gasket: 09E321371A / ZFS-0501322155
Transmission pan screw set: 06B6398747
Transmission mount assembly bolts x3: N10671801
Transmission mount assembly nuts x5: N91157401
Transmission mount insert bolts x2: N10724701
Transmission crossmember bolts x4: N91145101
Center differential fluid/axle oil: G055145A2
Chapters:
00:00 - The rundown
03:33 - X-brace removal
06:14 - Transmission cross member & mount removal
08:44 - Center differential fluid change
11:04 - Transmission fluid drain & filter
14:38 - Transmission fluid fill & adaptations
20:59 - 034 transmission mount & insert install
22:53 - ECS X-brace install
24:22 - Rear diff fluid change
26:26 - First impressions 
Авто/Мото
I have the b8.5 repair manual and it doesn't even mention the fill hole (third plastic on the bottom)...It refers to the small plug on the side of the Z8 as the fill and check hole. The drip checking is done out of it as well.
Great work Steve! December last year I’ve done the same on my 2010 Q5 3.2. Exactly the same for the transmission for fluid, gasket and transmission mount. The only issue I had was stripping one bolt while installing the pan. For the transmission adaptation I did not reset the values. I just went for a drive and I only felt a flare between 2nd to 3rd, that was on my way to the back road to do the long ZF procedure. I did it 4 times and worked perfect since. Btw this was the first fluid change at 170k kms. Just for preventive maintenance. It was working perfect. Then this year, few months ago I went ahead and did the same with my 2010 S5 Tiptronic. Second fluid change since new, first at 180k (in 2016) and now at 220k. I also want to mention, for all differentials including center one I always used Royal Purple 75w90. Rated for GL4/GL5. And had friction modifier added. That expensive fluid has essential 4% extra friction modifier. Which is especially required when the car is new. I have never felt any chatter, noise, metal in oil. Works great. I’m waiting for more videos on the S8!! How’s it that going?
Thanks for chiming in - time will tell how quickly the A4 will feel "normal" again after the fluid change and adaptation reset/relearn, but I have heard from others (now including you) that the software portion of the work isn't absolutely necessary, given you spend the careful time doing driving adaptations. For me, the car was basically undriveable before doing any procedure after the fill.
I feel you man, simple work changed in to a hustle :)
Keep making videos we all enjoy it.
You should have alot more subscribers. Your videos are very crisp and educative
Don’t even own an Audi but love your channel. Just started watching the s4 build
Love the content, keep it up
Job well done man 👍🏽
Welcome back 😁😁
I don't have the tools or the knowledge to do this job... But also, I don't trust the dealer to do it correctly either. A rock and a hard place.
The answer is definitely a good independent shop - which everyone (an average joe, a RUclips mechanic like me, and the real trained pros themselves) needs in their life. There have been and will continue to be times where I've screwed up projects and have to take a car in to get sorted, pride be damned. Finding a good indi shop that you can build a relationship over time will save you tons of time and money. There is very rarely an instance where taking a car to the dealer is absolutely necessary. Which is never for anything mechanical.
good job, m8
9:24 The pump fits a gallon jug of washer fluid so pour the differential fluid into an empty jug and use the long straw from the pump kit.
Can you tell me is there a difference between the ATF gearbox oil and the ZF gearbox oil for an ZF gearbox on an Audi A4 b8 from 2009?
Love the content. Interesting you felt no difference with the x brace. I put a similar x brace (Eurocode tuning) on my B8.5 allroad and it was a night and day difference in handling and road feel.
Fair point which makes me think; now that the car is lowered and as such, so is the center of mass, the additional stiffness is likely masked by the already limited roll left in the car.
@@FigureItAudi I also have the 034 solid rear sway bar on my allroad. I would say that made the most significant difference in handling. But beware it will make the car very uncomfortable on rough roads.
Thanks for this video, was able to get this job done and the biggest lesson learned was not dropping the oil pan! Still a messing job and all the oil just smells awful.
Got a question: When taking the xbrace I had the same issue of not getting that steering hose mount off and notice you cut yours too. My steering hose is leaking just as bad but were you able to find that little mount that goes on the xbrace? Anyways looking forward to more videos and almost got my A4 B8 3.2L ready for winter. Just need a carbon clean and rework the fuel injectors.
I don't have a part number on hand but if you search for isolator, you should find it/something that will work. Alternatively, you could easily just go to a fastener store (not a big box, somewhere that specializes in hardware) and just buy a little stud with the same threads that you either tap or measure, stick a little rubber tubing on it, add a nut and washer on top and call it a day.
What screw extractor kit did you use for the snapped pan screws|?
I purchased pretty much every variation of external (socket) and internal (helical reverse thread bits) Irwin extractors to help me navigate basically any situation, but it was these for the little bolts: geni.us/irwin-socketextractors
How is the A4 transmission performing after a few months. I have a 3.2L Q5 with 175K miles that hasn't had the transmission fluid changed based on Audi's "lifetime" claim. The 6 speed transmission currently doesn't have any noticeable problems and I'm interested in changing the fluid. Good idea?
Maybe. Based on my experience during and after the job, I'll say that it is unbelievably important to nail the fill procedure or, even with fresh fluid but not the correct fill level, you will have transmission issues like I encountered. This is one of those jobs where if you do it right, waste no materials and get those materials for a good price, you'll come out on top. But if you have an independent shop you like to work with and will do the job for an hour or 2 of labour and not pad material costs, it could very well be worth it, too. Now with the experience I have, I would do the job again but if you don't have multiple cars you think you'll eventually do the work on...it's a coin toss on the options above.
Any thoughts why there are folks out there talking about up to 10 liters of trans fluid going back in on a drain and fill? It seems to vary depending on resource but how to know?
I don't have a copy of the manual to confirm against right now but those larger numbers usually refer to the factory initial fill capacity - which technically, yes, is the actual amount the transmission should have in it. But the refill amount can be less than half of that number. I think the confusion (and I admit this got me during the process too, clearly) is the refill procedure is tricky and not clearly explained even in the manuals. In fact, even after all my work was done in this video (plus the shorts I added later to share further updates) - I was having issues with the transmission operating 100% smooth. When the refill is happening, you need to be sure the temperatures are bang on and the car is running on the stands/lift while the final fill is happening. There's fluid that will get pulled up into the trans only while under operation, allowing the last little bit of fluid to be added before spilling over the fill hole. Otherwise, the process will only ever yield like 90% of the refill capacity. It's still a simple job overall...just a steep learning curve.
@@FigureItAudi Thanks man! Yeah I followed all your steps, and it feels like the transmission is 90 percent better. But I have only a Foxwell VAG tool for the adaptation. So I can't tell if there's not enough fluid still or the adaptation didn't work that would result in a less then perfect shifting at this point. I did read that sometimes it's necessary to do two drain and fills to get it right. I love this car but man I'm almost ready for a Toyota!
A good indicator of if there's too little fluid is when you are at a stop and put the car in reverse. If you get some louder vibrations than normal while it's in the reverse gear, and movement at really low speeds is inconsistent under braking, you're likely not full. As long as you have the temperature right and are doing the final fill with the engine running, you should be good. I wouldn't drain it all again - red herring!