Awesome videos man I’m learning a lot ! I’m curious tho do the rocker arms need to go back into their original locations. I’m in the process of cleaning up a pair of 241’s and my rockers arms got all mixed up
Yes they should go back in the same place if you’re recycling the valves because of the wear of each rocker to valve. If you’re going with new valves it shouldn’t be a problem. Good luck on your build!
You may have to do some junkyard hunting, but most of the truck engines come with the block off plates on the rear. I don’t recommend it tho. Those cylinders back there run hotter then the front. In fact when im building engines that came with the blockoff on the rear, i get rid of them and run the lines back there. Its not that your engine is going to blow up if you dont use the rear ports, but every little helps. Also, the purpose of the holes is not to circulate cooland, even tho coolant goes tru them. They are there to get rid of air pockets in the cooling system.
I have a set of 706 heads on a 5.3 liter cast block what's your opinion on them, are they worth building for a turbo set up or not. I've heard a lot of good stuff about them and some bad but I'm not sure on what to believe...I guess one more opinion wouldn't hurt.
I've done rebuilds without machining the heads and ran fine. Decking is not a must. Also finding a good machine shop is very hard, they can machine your heads wrong.
@Jay Robies You are right on several levels. But his intentions are to hot tank the heads as well. If you have done any porting or a valve job, even just lapping (.Clover #2 Extra Fine), stuff gets every where. The decking will increase the 9.5:1 stock compression to say 10:1 and shill run pump gas. I have a SnapOn machinists straight edge I keep in a hard case for a torque wrench to protect it, but if you have aluminum heads that don’t have visible cracks, I uses Solvent, 400 grit on a block to clean the head gasket side, then check it for warpage. You’re allowed 0.0010 per foot for most manufactures to keep going, but I think he wants to raises the compression a little. Plus, having the correct “RA” in the finish, keep the head gasket in place. After all, it’s aluminum on an iron block.
@@calireelfishing2361 I would. You have them out might as well. Valve seats, valve seals, and valve lapping at minimal. Old school guys will tell you don’t use the drill but I’ve done it and ran fine. As for valve springs if your running a stock cam you can use the old ones but they’re fairly cheap you might as well.
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862s make the most power. Port the exhaust side and polish the chamber. Touch the intake side only lightly. I like what've you done here.
definitely applying this to my hemi build, thanks man
I like the content and the channel keep up the good work👍👍🙃
LS SWAP THAT STANG! I LIKE IT! I am curios as a racer why you didnt do more porting or get 243 heads?
Awesome videos man I’m learning a lot ! I’m curious tho do the rocker arms need to go back into their original locations. I’m in the process of cleaning up a pair of 241’s and my rockers arms got all mixed up
Yes they should go back in the same place if you’re recycling the valves because of the wear of each rocker to valve. If you’re going with new valves it shouldn’t be a problem. Good luck on your build!
AYYYYYYYYYYYYEEEE love the vids bro keep grinding your channel is blowing up now!
Hey Shane, thanks for the vid. Do the rockers have to go in the same order that they were removed?
what kind of oil did you put in the valve guides
hey bro love the vids... what valves seals did you buy?
Is there a way to block off the holes on the back of the 862s and just use the front holes that the cross line bolt too for the coolant
You may have to do some junkyard hunting, but most of the truck engines come with the block off plates on the rear. I don’t recommend it tho. Those cylinders back there run hotter then the front. In fact when im building engines that came with the blockoff on the rear, i get rid of them and run the lines back there.
Its not that your engine is going to blow up if you dont use the rear ports, but every little helps. Also, the purpose of the holes is not to circulate cooland, even tho coolant goes tru them. They are there to get rid of air pockets in the cooling system.
Why didn't you port the intake side?
How much power would this make a lq4 have, along with a cam and spending money on some valve train parts?
Well I made 1000hp with these heads on a 5.7L over bored LM7. So if the tune is right I don’t see why it couldn’t make the same or more on a lq4.
@@Shane_Whalley sorry forgot to mention NA.
I just subscribed bro
I have a set of 706 heads on a 5.3 liter cast block what's your opinion on them, are they worth building for a turbo set up or not. I've heard a lot of good stuff about them and some bad but I'm not sure on what to believe...I guess one more opinion wouldn't hurt.
onebabyguerilla Johnnysparks Go with lq4. #317 head. Bigger combustion chamber
706 heads should be on a na engine 317 heads for turbo huge chambers and drops compression 8/5/1
Update?
How does it run man?
Car is still a ways away from completion.
@@Shane_Whalley how is the car?
So why do the heads still need to go to machine shop
To get decked.
I've done rebuilds without machining the heads and ran fine. Decking is not a must. Also finding a good machine shop is very hard, they can machine your heads wrong.
@Jay Robies You are right on several levels. But his intentions are to hot tank the heads as well. If you have done any porting or a valve job, even just lapping (.Clover #2 Extra Fine), stuff gets every where. The decking will increase the 9.5:1 stock compression to say 10:1 and shill run pump gas. I have a SnapOn machinists straight edge I keep in a hard case for a torque wrench to protect it, but if you have aluminum heads that don’t have visible cracks, I uses Solvent, 400 grit on a block to clean the head gasket side, then check it for warpage. You’re allowed 0.0010 per foot for most manufactures to keep going, but I think he wants to raises the compression a little. Plus, having the correct “RA” in the finish, keep the head gasket in place. After all, it’s aluminum on an iron block.
@@jrobles1019 I'm trying to rebuild my heads do I need to do everything he did on this video 🤔
@@calireelfishing2361 I would. You have them out might as well. Valve seats, valve seals, and valve lapping at minimal. Old school guys will tell you don’t use the drill but I’ve done it and ran fine. As for valve springs if your running a stock cam you can use the old ones but they’re fairly cheap you might as well.
You mean chevstag.
This is why my shop has stayed open over 40 years now keep fucking up motors and I'll keep fixing them ..
Motor made 976hp on 14lbs of boost and runs super healthy. 🤷♂️
Nothing wrong with this video