Always wondered about this. I find super glue is better as it sets faster however plastic glue allow for movement errors but is unforgiving if you accidentally get it on a model where super glue can be scrapped off. Thanks very informative.
I am not a fan of Army Painter plastic glue. It's too viscous and tends to produce little strings when I remove the applicator. It's a mess. Tamiya Extra Thin, on the other hand, is fantastic, especially for small and thin connection points as the glue is very easy to control. It doesn't really work well for more loose-fitting joints, like Space Marine pauldrons, in which case something a little goopier like Citadel or Revell does the job quite nicely.
Army Painter IMO is best for paints. I combo speedpaint and their standard acrylics for brushing detailing. But the citadel glue one is.. ugh, the nozzle get stubborn to not letting the glue out, how you deal with that??. I screw off the top and the glue is fine, so I had to smear the glue unto the minis so I could glue them to the bases. Phuuu, the stench. Gotta ventilate
Fantastic video. Becasue I have... experiences. The Citadel one is utter garbago. Why? Well, the glue get stuck cant get out through the nozzle even after neddling the hole. The Army painter one did not come with the thin extender nozzle thingymajingy. Im about to order and try out Green Stuff worlds Skullglue ( looks awesome and have a small brush attached ) and Tamiya cement and extra thin cement. Have some Nolzur frameworks to put together which is on hefty sale. Like otherwishe they cost 17 dollarinos or ca 170 norwegian kroner but now down at 5 dollars or ca 50 kroner
Army Painter plastic clue didn't work for me well, Super glue is better but it dries quickly in the bottle. I've recently bought Citadel plastic glue, as I've heard good things about it..
If glue ever gets stuck or dried in the nozzle, Just light the end of it with a lighter. Not exactly the most practical way, but it should work, and it won't immediately explode. If the end stays on fire, You can easily blow it out. I'd advise looking at videos on this if it ever does happen just to make sure you know what you're doing
oo this video is 3 years old now so does not get many comments but honestly I am not sure, it is a little brush but I have never compared the sizes of brushes in the range so I cannot provide a reliable answer I am afraid
Tamiya quick setting is a cement for model kits that has a quicker setting time than standard Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, dries clear and has a brush applicator.
Frosting is normally caused by a build up of fumes. If possible make sure air is flowing around the superglued part and avoid your fingers getting in the way of air flow by using tweezers. Hope that helps
@@MightyLancerGames thank you thats really helpful, they were in a well ventilated room but sadly still frosted, just trying to work out how to remove it now 😅
I’m new to this.. I got REVELL CONTACTA… I really don’t get it? I was sitting there, gluing the sword to the hand of my chaos, warrior, and glue simply wasn’t hardening? I don’t get it ? In the end, I gave up . …..
I assume?? It’s games workshop, Warhammer, Chaos Warriors. I think they might even be age of Sigmar, new designs. So my presumption is is that all of games workshop’s main miniature range is made of plastic right ?
ok so if both parts are plastic then Revell should be fine. It acts different to super glue, Revell cement 'melts' both parts of the plastic to 'melt' them together. (The extra thin version dries very fast). If it is not working, try scrapping both connection points to get off excess glue before adding more (you do not need alot) & hold it together longer @@LaMOi1
We do not sell that one but anything that says its poly’ cement melts/ fuses the plastic together thats how it works which is why it is no good for metal minis.
Always wondered about this. I find super glue is better as it sets faster however plastic glue allow for movement errors but is unforgiving if you accidentally get it on a model where super glue can be scrapped off. Thanks very informative.
Ty! For using timestamps making it easier for everyone to watch the video
Happy to help
I am not a fan of Army Painter plastic glue. It's too viscous and tends to produce little strings when I remove the applicator. It's a mess. Tamiya Extra Thin, on the other hand, is fantastic, especially for small and thin connection points as the glue is very easy to control. It doesn't really work well for more loose-fitting joints, like Space Marine pauldrons, in which case something a little goopier like Citadel or Revell does the job quite nicely.
Just like paint ranges everyone has their favourites 😁
Army Painter IMO is best for paints. I combo speedpaint and their standard acrylics for brushing detailing. But the citadel glue one is.. ugh, the nozzle get stubborn to not letting the glue out, how you deal with that??. I screw off the top and the glue is fine, so I had to smear the glue unto the minis so I could glue them to the bases. Phuuu, the stench. Gotta ventilate
This video was very helpful, thank you!
Awesome, glad we could help
Fantastic video. Becasue I have... experiences. The Citadel one is utter garbago. Why? Well, the glue get stuck cant get out through the nozzle even after neddling the hole. The Army painter one did not come with the thin extender nozzle thingymajingy. Im about to order and try out Green Stuff worlds Skullglue ( looks awesome and have a small brush attached ) and Tamiya cement and extra thin cement. Have some Nolzur frameworks to put together which is on hefty sale. Like otherwishe they cost 17 dollarinos or ca 170 norwegian kroner but now down at 5 dollars or ca 50 kroner
Always good to experiment and find what works for you
Not a fan of Tamiya Extra thin. It does not hold well for smaller models. I find that I have to go back and redo my stuff with super glue.
Everyone is different, good job there are so many to choose from
Best glue is - Plastic magic from deluxe its brutal good!!!
🙂
Army Painter plastic clue didn't work for me well, Super glue is better but it dries quickly in the bottle. I've recently bought Citadel plastic glue, as I've heard good things about it..
If glue ever gets stuck or dried in the nozzle, Just light the end of it with a lighter. Not exactly the most practical way, but it should work, and it won't immediately explode. If the end stays on fire, You can easily blow it out. I'd advise looking at videos on this if it ever does happen just to make sure you know what you're doing
Don’t use bottles dude
This tamiya quick setting cement brush is bigger than the other classical tamiya green brush ?
oo this video is 3 years old now so does not get many comments but honestly I am not sure, it is a little brush but I have never compared the sizes of brushes in the range so I cannot provide a reliable answer I am afraid
Can the Tamiya Extra Thin Cement be used for Resin Models?
No, it’s not really designed for resin
@@MightyLancerGames Thanks for the reply. Which glue would I need for resin from your site?
You need superglue. We use Javis yellow top, links don’t work in here but a search for superglue should show it up, hope that helps
So basically it's possible to use super glue to bend all types of plastic model kits.?
I’ve heard a lot of people say the tamiya quick setting isn’t actually a glue but rather an accelerator. Can you confirm that please?
Tamiya quick setting is a cement for model kits that has a quicker setting time than standard Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, dries clear and has a brush applicator.
Have you got any tips on what to do if superglue frosts?
Frosting is normally caused by a build up of fumes. If possible make sure air is flowing around the superglued part and avoid your fingers getting in the way of air flow by using tweezers. Hope that helps
@@MightyLancerGames thank you thats really helpful, they were in a well ventilated room but sadly still frosted, just trying to work out how to remove it now 😅
We have heard that rubbing a cotton bud soaked in nail varnish removed over the frosting will remove it BUT we have never tried it
@@MightyLancerGames thanks so much I'll try it on one and see how it goes!
I have a fire and Ice model, its baratheon sentinels. Do anybody know what type of glue i should be using?, can I use tamiya extra thin cement?
They are models like the Reaper bones material so we would use Superglue
@@MightyLancerGames thanks alot :)
No worries
I’m new to this..
I got REVELL CONTACTA…
I really don’t get it? I was sitting there, gluing the sword to the hand of my chaos, warrior, and glue simply wasn’t hardening?
I don’t get it ?
In the end, I gave up . …..
Hello. Welcome to the hobby.
Are the miniature and the sword both plastic?
I assume?? It’s games workshop, Warhammer, Chaos Warriors. I think they might even be age of Sigmar, new designs.
So my presumption is is that all of games workshop’s main miniature range is made of plastic right ?
ok so if both parts are plastic then Revell should be fine. It acts different to super glue, Revell cement 'melts' both parts of the plastic to 'melt' them together. (The extra thin version dries very fast). If it is not working, try scrapping both connection points to get off excess glue before adding more (you do not need alot) & hold it together longer @@LaMOi1
@@MightyLancerGames
So should I file it down??
you can, gently, just to reveal bare plastic @@LaMOi1
I found some gorilla glue with a very precise applicator & I'm worried that it won't work well, but it's the smallest nozzle I could find-
Only one way to find out 😁
@@MightyLancerGames that's true 😓
Can’t you just use plain super glue for plastic polyesthirene models?
You can but it does not produce as solid a join
Great vid but your backing track drove me insane
Sorry
Came to your video because I'm using Tamiya no odour contact cement and it is melting the s*** out of my miniatures so I switch to superglue
We do not sell that one but anything that says its poly’ cement melts/ fuses the plastic together thats how it works which is why it is no good for metal minis.
all the glue all the time
Haha