Best plastic glue is far and away Tamiya extra thin plastic cement. the brush applicator and high fluidity means you can dry fit and then just brush onto the seam and it bonds perfectly. the brush applicator also means you can melt off flash and smooth out gouges or damage
Haha got to the part of the video where you said you had new merch, and I immediately opened the tab and bought 3 shirts XD Hit play again and theeeeeres the discount code! LOL oh well man, I hope that extra 10% goes to you!!
For glue, I would recommend the Tamiya model glue. You apply it using a small brush, which allows for really precise application, and the glue is super thin, so it runs into the cracks you may have missed or couldn’t get to. I originally started dong model tanks, and when I started getting into war hammer I kept using the glue and kept getting better results and having an easier time than when I used the citadel glue.
I am a beginner as well, and wanting to try out the suggestion of Brent from Goober i tried the Tamiya model glue too. Totally worthy purchase, the little brush makes it so easy and pleasant to apply the glue. A bit extra care should be used since the brush doesn't allow the same degree of control of the citadel long thin output, but i find out that i prefer having the glue laid in layers rather than in drops.
I mostly make model planes and I use two types of cement: tamiya extra thin cement and revell contacta professional. The tamiya has a brush and it’s great for attaching small parts as well as connecting long seams. The other thing it’s great for is melting a surface after sanding so the scratches etc soften or disappear after fettling. The revell glue has a needle applicator and is great for initial bonding of major assemblies as it is fairly precise, but also very strong.
It's the most stressful part for me, especially removing mold lines and the small bits of plastic left by the clippers - quite often I cut too deep and damage the mini :-(
Some models are so satisfying to put together. Others are a pain in the backside! There were some old necron dudes that drove me crazy trying to put together
Me too! Have you tried a Gundam model kit? They come precolored, so it’s basically prep work, but once your done cleaning, the kit is done! They are super enjoyable.
I got back into 40k about a year ago. I was so focused on just playing the game. Being on a budget, I had to focus on getting the models I already had ready for the table. Your tips, videos, and just general positivity has made me change my focus to painting and basing. Its a blast so thanks!
Painting is more fun for me personally nowadays due to how much the rules constantly change within just a year of whatever the game's current edition will be.
Can’t wait to get my hands on these models. Please show the finished product or a deep dive on a centerpiece model so I can learn and copy your techniques!
A lot of people poke fingers at the Citadel tools, but I would still highly recommend the clippers and the drill (and the water pot actually). Gone are the days of sprues flying across the room when clipping them or whiny gears drilling rough barrel holes. Both items cut like absolute butter.
This was hands down one of the best videos you’ve put out in ages. Absolutely loved it! This is why I started following back in the beginning. Please more of this format. Thank you 🙏! Cheers 🍻
Fir gap filling, I'd recommend Vallejo Plastic Putty. It's pretty much the same process as you have now, except it already comes as putty, so you don't need to mess around with iso or anything. You can also easily file it after it's hardened, works great.
This is perfect! I just got my first set of WH40K, but haven't started, since I'm trying to finish up my D&D mini backlog first. Now I know what to do for the steps I've never done before, since Bones, D&D minis are pre-assembled
Just got back into Warhammer to relive some of my childhood and you've been by far the best channel for tutorials I also love your smiley friendly personality
Depending on the gap you can also press milliput in the gap and use a worn brush dipped in water to sculpt / smooth the area down to hide tedious gaps.
I prepare my minis this way, and I have to say that it takes a LONG time to get to the painting process, also after spending so much time prepping the mini I can't bring myself to not give my best, which leaves me with painting 1 space marine for 8-10 hours. It's worth noting that I paint slowly and this process could be sped up to probably 5 hours with the same result but for bigger quantities or even small squads it takes ages. Personally I would advice anyone to seriously prepare their minis and paint them to as good as possible IF those are display miniatures or an important unit, for example an HQ. If they're just troops or a cheap PVC minis for a board game don't bother that much, just reach an acceptable level. This way you can both practice quality and speed of your paintjobs and end with a good looking army / set in a reasonable amount of time.
PVC is my bane. I know they're rank and file, and probably not going to look that great regardless, but I still wind up spending way, way too long trying to clean them up.
I really recommend you try out Tamiya plastic glue; the thin type that flows into recesses through *extreme* capillary action. They also come with a little brush, which ai find way easier to use than the Citadel nozzle.
I'm not even close to the level of basing skill you guys have... finished a pretty damn high quality Katakros the other day and was damn proud of myself. Then I see the work you guys put in before even touching paint to the model! Impressive and inspiring, as always!
Thank you for all your beginner vids. I quit warhammer before I got started ( to overwhelmed I think ). Have a starter box of sorts with a few units of chaos marines, possessed and a rhino along with 5th edition core rules and chaos codex. Thanks to youtubers like you, fan animations and lorevids I will probably give it another go this fall. Tack som fan!
I was happy to see we handle our bases much the same. I build every single base for an army separate form the mini initially. Where we differ is that I will fully prime and paint the base completely separate from the model, and only glue them together after they are each painted. My mini's get stuck to the tops of Rx bottle via double sided tape similar to Miniac.
For plastic test tamiya extra thin cement. Its the best I have found: mainly because of the packaging (there is a very thin brush (that is durable) than is very precise). It can be use to fill gap.
Not going to lie, I didn't expect to be buying Warhammer again in my mid 30s but I actually want to paint again. Thanks for the motivation and the content. Genuinely appreciate the tips and tricks too. Stick at it guys!
RE: Plastic Glue I really recoomend tamiya. The only downside is the brush with them can be kinda meh, but you can replace with a cheap natural hair brush. The normal and super thin are a god send.
Great video! I always like to know exactly how models are prepped, they might not be the most exciting videos, but they're among the most useful for sure!
This is pretty much it! I follow the same procedure, and I even enjoy it almost more than painting. For glue its Revell plastic glue for me (also because of the needle applicator. Tipp: burn it out with a lighter if it clogs..), and gap filling with milliput or vallejo's plastic putty. Maybe the only thing I do differently is check for sub assemblies if possible. Makes painting so much easier. But for the easy fit models from the starter sets its almost impossible... Thanks for sharing. Great tips for everyone!
I really like the Tamiya super fine glue. You get a big ass bottle and the cap has a little brush for precise application. But since it's a thin liquid it evaporates quite quickly if you aren't kinda thick with it
Thanks emil, I was building a few sets of skitarii rangers and vanguard and I painted two to see how they would come out and I was totally bummed out by the gap in the cloak and was trying to figure out how to fix that. Your tip of "milliput and iso" was a godsent. I will definitely try that out!!
An excellent video, Squidmar and Co. I am new to painting minis and the tips you’ve given are exactly what I need! The Milliput and iso paste is genius! It would be so good if you did a series of short “tips” videos like this. They wouldn’t need to be high production; just you and the camera and solid advice. Your videos give me confidence to try things out. Thanks, Squidmar, Lucas and Victor!
i zenithal highlight with first chaos black then mix in the Airbrush Vallejo grey Panzergrey Primer with some drops white Ink from the top then more white... you can not get smoother results no splatter anymore ;)
a trick i learned building gunpla: dont snip the sprue close to the model, leave a few milimeters. trim with a hobby knife and sand first with 600 grit to even the surface, and 1000 grit to polish. you almost never get stress marks this way, though it is a bit more time consuming. not sure just how applicable it is to WH models due to differing materials, but it should work for just about any plastic.
***Unclog hack for the GW plastic glue*** take a lighter and heat up the metal till you see a pop at the end and an open flame come out the top. Only thing is you have to wait a couple minutes after doing this because the heat will cause it to clog again.
@squidmar I've started using airbrush black primer from Vallejo with a brush for priming. It's a bit slow but the paint shrinks when it dries so it's super durable and extremely thin when it dries.
also you dont need and airbrush for the "highlighting" after the priming with black, you can also just use a white primer afterwards and spray a bit from above, just make sure the black underneath is dry yet, have fun !
Buddy you are in need of a holiday bruh, you need to take a week off with your homies... do a outting together bonding bruh time and spend the rest with the family we will all be here when you get back...
I love Tamiya Extra Thin Cement plastic glue. Ya it has a strong smell but its wicked good im very happy with it. Just cant make a mistake with it as its such a strong glue lol So always dry fit first. Watch the build order incase some spreads out
Hi! Returned to watching your video's recently and now want to pick up painting again, but really at a higher level. I would love if you picked some basic figure and make a paint along sort of video, where we go stel by step and can follow along. Keep up the great content!
When clipping things, remember to hold onto them or they can shoot off like a bullet! Also, the GW/Citadel Chaos Black spray is my favourite to work with, it is very difficult to make a major mistake, it flows so well, I feel like disarming a bomb with other sprays because of how temperamental they can be.
i'm 35 years old and started the hobby over 25 years ago. a huge amount of "techniques" we had to teach ourselves are now milliput and structure paint. but one thing we learned, i haven't seen till now: add a spoon of water binding glue to one cup of plaster /fast reacting). take double the water. now you can pour it onto styro and whatever without the pain of it drooling away. it even builds a valid exoskeleton. just do a thin layer or the piece could warp. lg
edit: the most foam materials don't bind with plaster (because of air). the glue stops it. it's even that tough - your angry friend "drops it accidently" onto the wall and the model lost only a bit of colour...^^
I am surprised this could ever happen, but I have a tip for you! Tamiya Extra Thin will totally change your glue game, it's so much better than the GW glue, and unlike that one, will NEVER get clogged, again just due to the design. Try it out!
Nice video! If you haven't tried it yet I recommend trying the Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement, with the super tiny brush applicator is like painting glue!
👕 Order Squidmar Merch - code VILLAINBOY for 10% off: teespring.com/stores/squidmarminiatures
Well, that’s my payday purchases sorted then! :)
Best plastic glue is far and away Tamiya extra thin plastic cement. the brush applicator and high fluidity means you can dry fit and then just brush onto the seam and it bonds perfectly. the brush applicator also means you can melt off flash and smooth out gouges or damage
Haha got to the part of the video where you said you had new merch, and I immediately opened the tab and bought 3 shirts XD
Hit play again and theeeeeres the discount code!
LOL oh well man, I hope that extra 10% goes to you!!
@@mrArd37 it does. Thx mate :)
can get clippers from boots for like £5-8 cuticle clippers realy great shape helps you get into those hard to reach places
For glue, I would recommend the Tamiya model glue. You apply it using a small brush, which allows for really precise application, and the glue is super thin, so it runs into the cracks you may have missed or couldn’t get to. I originally started dong model tanks, and when I started getting into war hammer I kept using the glue and kept getting better results and having an easier time than when I used the citadel glue.
Second this. Ultrathin glue for plastics from Tamiya, Mr Hobby or AMMO is really good for anything plastic related, not just tanks and planes!
Yeah the Extra-thin version is awesome plastic glue
I am a beginner as well, and wanting to try out the suggestion of Brent from Goober i tried the Tamiya model glue too. Totally worthy purchase, the little brush makes it so easy and pleasant to apply the glue. A bit extra care should be used since the brush doesn't allow the same degree of control of the citadel long thin output, but i find out that i prefer having the glue laid in layers rather than in drops.
I mostly make model planes and I use two types of cement: tamiya extra thin cement and revell contacta professional. The tamiya has a brush and it’s great for attaching small parts as well as connecting long seams. The other thing it’s great for is melting a surface after sanding so the scratches etc soften or disappear after fettling. The revell glue has a needle applicator and is great for initial bonding of major assemblies as it is fairly precise, but also very strong.
To add onto this you can use Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner as cheaper substitute for Extra Thin. It has almost the same ingredients
Please take care of yourself.
New content s always appreciated and I love to watch cool epic projects BUT all of your health should always come first
Prep work is the most underrated part of the hobby and to be honest it's the most satisfying for me. I love building kits
Building is my favourite as well.
It's the most stressful part for me, especially removing mold lines and the small bits of plastic left by the clippers - quite often I cut too deep and damage the mini :-(
Some models are so satisfying to put together. Others are a pain in the backside! There were some old necron dudes that drove me crazy trying to put together
Me too! Have you tried a Gundam model kit? They come precolored, so it’s basically prep work, but once your done cleaning, the kit is done! They are super enjoyable.
I’m terribly jealous of you, not gonna lie. I don’t hate it, but the building is one of my least favorite parts of the hobby
I got back into 40k about a year ago. I was so focused on just playing the game. Being on a budget, I had to focus on getting the models I already had ready for the table. Your tips, videos, and just general positivity has made me change my focus to painting and basing. Its a blast so thanks!
Painting is more fun for me personally nowadays due to how much the rules constantly change within just a year of whatever the game's current edition will be.
If you take a break, everyone will be here when you get back! Not going anywhere! Stay safe and healthy!
Can’t wait to get my hands on these models. Please show the finished product or a deep dive on a centerpiece model so I can learn and copy your techniques!
A lot of people poke fingers at the Citadel tools, but I would still highly recommend the clippers and the drill (and the water pot actually). Gone are the days of sprues flying across the room when clipping them or whiny gears drilling rough barrel holes. Both items cut like absolute butter.
Agree 100% about the citadel side cutters. I haven't tried the drill myself
Thanks for being a good mate and looking after your friends
Wow this must be the coolest channel on the internet! What a handsome person.
0.o Emil? lol
Meta….
@@charleyedwards2121 of course ;)
😂
Ehhh I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder and what not
This was hands down one of the best videos you’ve put out in ages. Absolutely loved it! This is why I started following back in the beginning. Please more of this format. Thank you 🙏! Cheers 🍻
Fir gap filling, I'd recommend Vallejo Plastic Putty. It's pretty much the same process as you have now, except it already comes as putty, so you don't need to mess around with iso or anything. You can also easily file it after it's hardened, works great.
I really enjoy chill videos like this, you can take it easy more often!
Those Kruleboy bases are going to be epic cannot wait to see all these guys painted. Another epic video Emil some great tips :)
Love this more chilled vibe. Great tips and love the new Merch. Well done Squidmar for all you do.
YES we need videos like this. I really enjoy watching streams of people working on building their models.
This is perfect! I just got my first set of WH40K, but haven't started, since I'm trying to finish up my D&D mini backlog first. Now I know what to do for the steps I've never done before, since Bones, D&D minis are pre-assembled
Building Warhammer miniatures is a whole nother hobby in of itself, especially if you also magnetize certain bits like weapon options.
Jes man, you are the king of the base ;)
OMG, you watch squid mar?
@@CarmelloCassarole dude, I'm literally everywhere on RUclips it seems. :)
*Davie504 wants to know your location*
@@Dracodomin there can be only one king of Bass...
not even close
Hope everyone gets well soon.
Thanks for the chill video.
Thanks for the beginners tips. I'm just starting to get into the painting of my minis. You're helping me a bunch. Thanks a lot :)
Just got back into Warhammer to relive some of my childhood and you've been by far the best channel for tutorials
I also love your smiley friendly personality
Depending on the gap you can also press milliput in the gap and use a worn brush dipped in water to sculpt / smooth the area down to hide tedious gaps.
I’m loving the chill video! No special effects needed!
Needed this. You are definitely one of my favorite Warhammer channels
I prepare my minis this way, and I have to say that it takes a LONG time to get to the painting process, also after spending so much time prepping the mini I can't bring myself to not give my best, which leaves me with painting 1 space marine for 8-10 hours.
It's worth noting that I paint slowly and this process could be sped up to probably 5 hours with the same result but for bigger quantities or even small squads it takes ages.
Personally I would advice anyone to seriously prepare their minis and paint them to as good as possible IF those are display miniatures or an important unit, for example an HQ. If they're just troops or a cheap PVC minis for a board game don't bother that much, just reach an acceptable level.
This way you can both practice quality and speed of your paintjobs and end with a good looking army / set in a reasonable amount of time.
PVC is my bane. I know they're rank and file, and probably not going to look that great regardless, but I still wind up spending way, way too long trying to clean them up.
@@cinnabarsin4288 I know your pain man
Love you guys, please take care of yourselves so you don't burn out!
Just started working my my first miniatures today, boought myself a box of skitarii. Already had a few bad accidents but enjoying it so far
I love this! Definitely adopting some of these. I wish more mini painting channels had basic intro videos like these
Actually greatly prefer this style of video. Very chill. Lots of great info and inspiration.
Awesome stuff.
I really recommend you try out Tamiya plastic glue; the thin type that flows into recesses through *extreme* capillary action. They also come with a little brush, which ai find way easier to use than the Citadel nozzle.
I'm not even close to the level of basing skill you guys have... finished a pretty damn high quality Katakros the other day and was damn proud of myself. Then I see the work you guys put in before even touching paint to the model! Impressive and inspiring, as always!
Now this video came perfectly on time as I am doing some assemble and painting tonight XD
Thank you for all your beginner vids. I quit warhammer before I got started ( to overwhelmed I think ). Have a starter box of sorts with a few units of chaos marines, possessed and a rhino along with 5th edition core rules and chaos codex. Thanks to youtubers like you, fan animations and lorevids I will probably give it another go this fall. Tack som fan!
Did you end up building them?
@@Shartlemon yes, used them to learn so they look bad.
I do really like these relaxed kind of videos.
I was happy to see we handle our bases much the same. I build every single base for an army separate form the mini initially. Where we differ is that I will fully prime and paint the base completely separate from the model, and only glue them together after they are each painted. My mini's get stuck to the tops of Rx bottle via double sided tape similar to Miniac.
Love it! Hope to see a finished version at some point! ❤️ enjoy the downtime week!
Thank you for this video! I needed this to send to a guy who is new at Warhammer
Thank you I'm just starting off and you have answered a lot of questions!!!
For plastic test tamiya extra thin cement. Its the best I have found: mainly because of the packaging (there is a very thin brush (that is durable) than is very precise). It can be use to fill gap.
I love the idea of 3d printing such a staircase so much, thanks for the idea!
totally do more of these simpler videos! the higher production stuff i think should come out slowly so you dont burn out
Not going to lie, I didn't expect to be buying Warhammer again in my mid 30s but I actually want to paint again. Thanks for the motivation and the content. Genuinely appreciate the tips and tricks too. Stick at it guys!
RE: Plastic Glue
I really recoomend tamiya.
The only downside is the brush with them can be kinda meh, but you can replace with a cheap natural hair brush.
The normal and super thin are a god send.
Super thin is just so good. I can't imagine using anything else.
@@TheAtomicSpoon - I use the regular on vehicles or things with thicker joining peices
This video more of a fully fledged video than you think. I learned and was entertained. Well played.
Love this kind of chill videos too ! Take care of yourself, we don't need ultra epic content every week.
Take it easy any time you need man. Don't let the content machine grind you down
miliput and isopropyl, I cant wait to try that.
Great video! I always like to know exactly how models are prepped, they might not be the most exciting videos, but they're among the most useful for sure!
Honestly can't wait too see what you do with these bases been desperate to see some good swamp basing ideas and tutorials
Those miniatures look insane :0
I just put together some boyz :) now to prime and paint! Got like 3 other boxes waiting for me and this gave me inspiration
Thank you for your wonderful videos, I am loving everything minis.
This is super helpful! Thank you! Especially the miliput + alcohol trick is great :D
This is pretty much it! I follow the same procedure, and I even enjoy it almost more than painting.
For glue its Revell plastic glue for me (also because of the needle applicator. Tipp: burn it out with a lighter if it clogs..), and gap filling with milliput or vallejo's plastic putty.
Maybe the only thing I do differently is check for sub assemblies if possible. Makes painting so much easier. But for the easy fit models from the starter sets its almost impossible...
Thanks for sharing. Great tips for everyone!
To fill the gaps you can use some leftover resin. Paint it over the gap then put it under uv light for 2-5 minutes
i much prefer the building portion then painting more vids like this please (:
I really like the Tamiya super fine glue. You get a big ass bottle and the cap has a little brush for precise application. But since it's a thin liquid it evaporates quite quickly if you aren't kinda thick with it
Thanks emil,
I was building a few sets of skitarii rangers and vanguard and I painted two to see how they would come out and I was totally bummed out by the gap in the cloak and was trying to figure out how to fix that. Your tip of "milliput and iso" was a godsent. I will definitely try that out!!
Could you, plz, explain for the outerworlders what is the ISO?
@@kostiantyndanylchenko8628 I THINK he means Isopropanol (Alcohol) but I'd like to get a conformation for that too
sorry guys, it's isopropyl alcohol. I use the 90% kind but anything from 70 or up will work 👍
@@greenhowze Thx so much :)
Perfect timing i ordered my first set just the other day :)
Love this type of down to earth videos
I usually dont like sponsor shout outs but i really liked yours! I even subscribed to them! yey!
An excellent video, Squidmar and Co. I am new to painting minis and the tips you’ve given are exactly what I need! The Milliput and iso paste is genius! It would be so good if you did a series of short “tips” videos like this. They wouldn’t need to be high production; just you and the camera and solid advice. Your videos give me confidence to try things out. Thanks, Squidmar, Lucas and Victor!
i zenithal highlight with first chaos black then mix in the Airbrush Vallejo grey Panzergrey Primer with some drops white Ink from the top then more white... you can not get smoother results no splatter anymore ;)
Hey man. I subbed today after a long time lurking. Milliput hack with iso is definitely something I will be trying out, great vids keep it up!
Some great tips in there! Looking forward to seeing what you do with Dominion. Don't push yourselves too hard though - health is more important.
Great vid, I've learned a lot. I would not mind seeing more of this kind of videos!😄
a trick i learned building gunpla: dont snip the sprue close to the model, leave a few milimeters. trim with a hobby knife and sand first with 600 grit to even the surface, and 1000 grit to polish. you almost never get stress marks this way, though it is a bit more time consuming.
not sure just how applicable it is to WH models due to differing materials, but it should work for just about any plastic.
Ive found that using fewer and thicker coats of paint is a great way to cover up mold lines
***Unclog hack for the GW plastic glue*** take a lighter and heat up the metal till you see a pop at the end and an open flame come out the top. Only thing is you have to wait a couple minutes after doing this because the heat will cause it to clog again.
@squidmar I've started using airbrush black primer from Vallejo with a brush for priming. It's a bit slow but the paint shrinks when it dries so it's super durable and extremely thin when it dries.
I quite enjoy the prep part.
While I love your more advanced videos I'm a bigger fan of these simple ones and seeing more of the "how to." Love your content!
I am going to start painting soon so this couldn't come at a better time!
Just make sure to thin your paints. That is rule number 1. Thin your paints!!!!!
also you dont need and airbrush for the "highlighting" after the priming with black, you can also just use a white primer afterwards and spray a bit from above, just make sure the black underneath is dry yet, have fun !
@@DougsDad rule 1#, have fun!
Awesome tips! Keep up the great work !
Buddy you are in need of a holiday bruh, you need to take a week off with your homies... do a outting together bonding bruh time and spend the rest with the family we will all be here when you get back...
Very nice video, loved the relaxed approach
Tip for using Citadel plastic glue: if your metal tube gets clogged with glue, just heat it up with a lighter and it will clear up the clog.
Awesome chill video. Definitely enjoyed the vibe.
I'm a simple man, I see Squidmar, I click.
I love Tamiya Extra Thin Cement plastic glue. Ya it has a strong smell but its wicked good im very happy with it. Just cant make a mistake with it as its such a strong glue lol So always dry fit first. Watch the build order incase some spreads out
I can't wait to try the milliput tip tonight! What an awesome idea, I hate filling gaps!
Have you thought about, Balsa wood filler? super soft and easy to work with, softer than the plastic, so ideal for feathering.
They probably don't get as many hits as the gimmick vids, but I really prefer these fairly straightforward build / paint process videos.
Wait, thats a nozzle! I thought it was a puncture rod, God dammit, been caulking to long. Apparently I need instruction for glue.
Hi! Returned to watching your video's recently and now want to pick up painting again, but really at a higher level. I would love if you picked some basic figure and make a paint along sort of video, where we go stel by step and can follow along. Keep up the great content!
You and Redgrass Gaming need a store together!! I always buy their stuff because of you and I want to get Squidmar gear in the same package.
you should take a look at revell's plastic cement.
When clipping things, remember to hold onto them or they can shoot off like a bullet! Also, the GW/Citadel Chaos Black spray is my favourite to work with, it is very difficult to make a major mistake, it flows so well, I feel like disarming a bomb with other sprays because of how temperamental they can be.
Can't wait to see how these come out.
Tamiya thin and tamiya extra thin. Upgrade your glue game. Complete gamechangers!
i'm 35 years old and started the hobby over 25 years ago. a huge amount of "techniques" we had to teach ourselves are now milliput and structure paint. but one thing we learned, i haven't seen till now: add a spoon of water binding glue to one cup of plaster /fast reacting). take double the water. now you can pour it onto styro and whatever without the pain of it drooling away. it even builds a valid exoskeleton. just do a thin layer or the piece could warp. lg
edit: the most foam materials don't bind with plaster (because of air). the glue stops it. it's even that tough - your angry friend "drops it accidently" onto the wall and the model lost only a bit of colour...^^
I am surprised this could ever happen, but I have a tip for you! Tamiya Extra Thin will totally change your glue game, it's so much better than the GW glue, and unlike that one, will NEVER get clogged, again just due to the design. Try it out!
That was one of the best sponsor promos I've ever seen. I'd click subscribe again if I could.
the "this video was sponsored by the subscribe button" earned my like before I saw the video
Cant wait to see the final result emil. They already looked dope with the zenithal. Any project for the stormcast half of the box?
Please do a video on painting the Orruks. Love your colour scheme! Especially the shields
I highly recommend a magnetic plate for your resin printer. Then you print those bases directly without support.
What a lovely chilled vid perfect for a chilled monday!!!
3:07 - I thought you were talking about a peanut butter candy covered in a candied shell…
Nice video! If you haven't tried it yet I recommend trying the Tamiya Extra Thin plastic cement, with the super tiny brush applicator is like painting glue!