Thank you for being one of the first video creators to key folks in on "breaking the rule" with plastic cement - and putting it where it "shouldn't be" on purpose. While the beginner advice of being careful to not melt detail with cement is important, the REAL galaxy brain moment comes when one realizes the cement can be used to smooth rough surfaces and mold lines! Once you get used to using it, it takes rather a LOT of cement to truly melt off details. Just don't touch it until it has hardened again!
Another great tool to use, I've found, is an old soft toothbrush for getting rid of your scraped or sanded plastic bits. Clean up as you go then use an old makeup brush for a final clean before priming (especially useful if you have hairy pets!)
I almost didn't watch this because of how long I've been at this hobby. I'm so glad I did because even after 25 years I've learned a few very useful looking tips!! Thanks for the awesome video mate.
Love the thimble idea. Cutting towards you is actually the safest method if you hold both hands together and move the blade a minimal amount. You have way more control then cutting away from you.
Great video! After all these years still learning new tricks. Before I start clipping I usually wash the sprues in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush to clean off any mould release that is left on the plastic after manufacturing. That way the paint has clean plastic to adhere to.
5:35 running your nail across imperfection helps because like you said the color of the plastic can be deceiving. An alternative I really like are toothpicks (or similar), because the wood is soft enough as not scrape the plastic, but strong enough to detect imperfections on the plastic.
You sold me on the tamiya glue. The little metal tube on the Citadel glue keeps getting bent out of shape and I can't get any glue out. So frustrating 😫
Год назад+4
Thank you for this video! Using the glue for removing mold lines is very helpful for me!
The thimble idea, my mind is blown. And seeing the tamyia cement in work, imma order it right now. comparing how messy other brands are. This looks so much better
Brilliant video with lots of tips in here. With the Tamiya extra thin have a look on the brush in the lid as the last one I had you could extend the handle with the brush on to reach the bottom.
9:16 Also, the knife is better at removing mold lines than the glue IMO. The glue becomes a valid option on textured surfaces. A decent option is a combination of the two: remove the worst of the mold line first and use the glue to clean up.
Thank you for posting this video, PC. I've been doing miniature painting and assembling for years (but constantly at an amateur level). The sprue gue is a genius idea (and will be implementing that!) as filling in mismatches are always there to my eyes, and that annoys me. That looks a much easier, quicker fix. Keep up the great work that you do. 👏
1:50 you can extend the brush that comes with the pot to reach the bottom. Use a pair of pliers to so so. EDIT: turns out others have also pointed this out
Sprue Glue! What a great idea I have some putty but I am not a fan of working with it at all. This looks like a much simpler method! Need to get some Tamiya Glue ordered 😁
Sprewgoo is an awesome idea I will absolutely use from now on! Thanks! Almost at the point my pot is good for that. How munch sprew throw I in there plz? 🙏
Oooh depends on how much glue you have and how thick you want to make it - i'd add a little sprue and see how it goes and then slowly add more - takes a good 10 mins to dtart dissolving properly
Love the sprue goo idea. Didn’t know that would happen in that glue and I use that glue. Very helpful. Not to mention I just got one of those wow stick drills for Christmas and it saves a ton of time drilling. Loved the video.
I see lots of people using the Tamiya cement. What is so good about it? Is it something to do with the fact it has a brush thing to apply the actual cement rather than a tube which dries up? Great vid, love your channel
It’s very quick to dry and you can hold two pieces together and rely on capillary action to draw the cement into the gaps between them. If you want to be able to adjust pieces after they’ve been glued I use the thicker tube glue.
@@ThePaintingCoach Thanks these look great , i would to love to support a local hobby shop sadly there are few shops close to me i supose thats what i get for being out of the way on dartmoor , Thanks for the fast reply.
Thank you very much for this video!! Always excellent instructions! Any suggestions for those of us who don’t have a bottle of Tamia but would like to make a sprue goo? I’ve been using the GW glue. But I’ll gladly pick up an Extra thin, just don’t know how to not waste glue.
Thanks Doug - apparently Tamiya airbrush cleaner does the same thing - although I am yet to try this myself! I still use thicker glue on large parts and also when glueing something to the base!
I tried the Tamiya cement on the Cadia Stands box, and I had some issues with the arms on the Guardsmen dropping off or breaking off the bases easily - thinking I must have been doing something wrong as I've seen so many people recommending it.
@@ThePaintingCoach I've got more than the average pile of shame to work through, so plenty of time to give it another go :D Contacta is my previous go-to so I've got some of that here too, just I get fed up of having to unclog the nozzle :D
One thing I have a hard time is basing. Not sure if to build my bases before painting a model, or if I should paint my model while it's on the base, or if I should just paint models without any basing. Basing is the only thing that keeps slowing me down on the hobby cause just the thought of having to build my bases (though fun), takes away from painting.
Lightly super glue a foot to a completely bare base. Prime and paint your model and then enjoy gaming with it. When you have time, snap the model off the base and do cool funky bases and paint it. Then superglue your model more securely back onto the finished base. Yay, profit - hope that helps
For some reason I always try to remove the scar that the moldline leaves behind when removing. I always fail or remove to much in the hope that is gone 😂 good tips like always
Does anyone have tips to share in regards to the the "stands" he usually uses while painting? I'm looking to paint my first models and I can already see myself smearing paint by holding the model itself instead of the things he's usually using which are connected to the base or the individual piece
I use a Redgrass Games holder - highly recommended - you can also get different style versions from citadel and other brands, called s painting holder 👍🏻
@@ThePaintingCoach I appreciate the response! For the long thin painting holders you use for individual model pieces I'm guessing those are usually jury rigged with putty and toothpicks, or something equivalent?
Ah, so that is a paperclip straightened out. Drill a small hole on the bottom of the mini, glue in the paper clip, and then pop the other end into a cork bottle stopper. Wine bottle corks are usually too narrow for this - so have a look for a cork bottle stopper such as those used in labs, as they have a wider area that will support the weight of the piege and not constantly fall over. Sometimes, I use just the cork with blu-tac if there is enough surface area to get hold of
Quick question - I’ve been priming my models with no arms attached to the model. This means when I attach the arms it’s paint on paint rather than grey plastic on grey plastic. Haven’t had any issues so far however some people say not to do that. A worker at my local Warhammer store said it’s fine due to the plastic melting anyway but I just wanted to get your thoughts as there seems to be a lot of conflicting opinions?
The bond might be less strong as you are essentially melting paint to paint - if you want to be extra sure, you can scrape away the paint on the connection points with a hobby knife to get the best bond
Next video, how to bloody hell SPRAY the model? I am affraid to mess up or get the cracking when I see people fail at spraying a model... :( Do I have to put the spraycans in warm water? for how long? Do I have to have certain speed between spraying zenithal? like max 10 minutes before spraying black and then the other color ontop? How long burst? Distance spraycan to model? How to get the models on a sick, or whatever cork lying around? Bluetack, glue, GW model holder stick? Humidity? cold? warm? Can I speed up the process of drying between spray? or is there some reason why I would want to spray zenithal while the black color is settling? Halp! :(
Fun life hack: plastic glue is basically the exact same stuff as airbrush cleaner, except it comes with a handy applicator. Now airbrush cleaner is a lot cheaper by volume, so using that can be a great way to save a little money. Just make sure that you don't use a synthetic brush to apply it. Or you might find yourself losing a brush.
yes, thumb thimble because you are pushing the knife from one hand into the other... or just cut towards the same hand so no thumb thimble is needed :|
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Thank you for being one of the first video creators to key folks in on "breaking the rule" with plastic cement - and putting it where it "shouldn't be" on purpose. While the beginner advice of being careful to not melt detail with cement is important, the REAL galaxy brain moment comes when one realizes the cement can be used to smooth rough surfaces and mold lines! Once you get used to using it, it takes rather a LOT of cement to truly melt off details. Just don't touch it until it has hardened again!
Top tip! Cheers!
Do you use this on chain sword teeth?
Yes I do!
Many a tonk MG port has been melted
Great video. Hobby knife tip...the back of the blade makes the perfect mold line removal tool.
Thanks for sharing!
I've been falling deeper into the hobby recently, and I'm about to take the plunge into painting models, and this is a godsend!
Glad it helped!
I agree, there are not many videos on building/prepping mini's so always nice to see one come along.
Another great tool to use, I've found, is an old soft toothbrush for getting rid of your scraped or sanded plastic bits. Clean up as you go then use an old makeup brush for a final clean before priming (especially useful if you have hairy pets!)
Thanks for the tip!
I almost didn't watch this because of how long I've been at this hobby. I'm so glad I did because even after 25 years I've learned a few very useful looking tips!! Thanks for the awesome video mate.
Awesome! Glad you enjoyed it and found it useful!
Love the thimble idea. Cutting towards you is actually the safest method if you hold both hands together and move the blade a minimal amount. You have way more control then cutting away from you.
Yes! I have slipped once too often 🤣
Great video! After all these years still learning new tricks. Before I start clipping I usually wash the sprues in warm soapy water with an old toothbrush to clean off any mould release that is left on the plastic after manufacturing. That way the paint has clean plastic to adhere to.
5:35 running your nail across imperfection helps because like you said the color of the plastic can be deceiving. An alternative I really like are toothpicks (or similar), because the wood is soft enough as not scrape the plastic, but strong enough to detect imperfections on the plastic.
You sold me on the tamiya glue. The little metal tube on the Citadel glue keeps getting bent out of shape and I can't get any glue out. So frustrating 😫
Thank you for this video!
Using the glue for removing mold lines is very helpful for me!
Glad it was useful!
The thimble idea, my mind is blown. And seeing the tamyia cement in work, imma order it right now. comparing how messy other brands are. This looks so much better
Time to raid the wife's sewing kit.
Armour up first!
9:25 this blew my mind... No more suffering, trying to get those pesky mould lines in hard to reach places with a knife...
Cheers!
Brilliant video with lots of tips in here. With the Tamiya extra thin have a look on the brush in the lid as the last one I had you could extend the handle with the brush on to reach the bottom.
Thanks! Yes I have been told since! I will look into it!
9:16 Also, the knife is better at removing mold lines than the glue IMO. The glue becomes a valid option on textured surfaces. A decent option is a combination of the two: remove the worst of the mold line first and use the glue to clean up.
Thank you for posting this video, PC. I've been doing miniature painting and assembling for years (but constantly at an amateur level). The sprue gue is a genius idea (and will be implementing that!) as filling in mismatches are always there to my eyes, and that annoys me. That looks a much easier, quicker fix. Keep up the great work that you do. 👏
Glad you liked it!
1:50 you can extend the brush that comes with the pot to reach the bottom. Use a pair of pliers to so so.
EDIT: turns out others have also pointed this out
Feathering the sprue goo with standard glue……wow dude, I would of never considered this. Thanks again!!
Glad it was useful!
Another great vid Coach! Would love more on on the prep/non-painting side from you, always have good tips.
Cheers!
Sprue Glue! What a great idea I have some putty but I am not a fan of working with it at all. This looks like a much simpler method! Need to get some Tamiya Glue ordered 😁
the brush for the tamiya extra thin is telescopic, you can use pliers to extend it when the pot is nearly empty.
I have just learnt this! Thanks for sharing
Great tip on gloop for gap filling
Cheers
Sprewgoo is an awesome idea I will absolutely use from now on! Thanks! Almost at the point my pot is good for that. How munch sprew throw I in there plz? 🙏
Oooh depends on how much glue you have and how thick you want to make it - i'd add a little sprue and see how it goes and then slowly add more - takes a good 10 mins to dtart dissolving properly
Ok thanks!
1:04 oh, I just use super glue to close up all the cuts...but I suppose a thimble does make more sense.
Great video. Not sure if it is new for this one or recent but the sound quality is amazing ! Keep up the good work !
Thanks - I have been doing some experiments so glad it is coming over!
Nice tutorial, where do you get the sanding sponges and sticks?
Most model shops stock them - failing that ebay and amazon 👍🏻
Love the sprue goo idea. Didn’t know that would happen in that glue and I use that glue. Very helpful. Not to mention I just got one of those wow stick drills for Christmas and it saves a ton of time drilling. Loved the video.
Cheers 👍🏻
Just to point out, the brush in Tamiya pot extends, you can make it longer
Cheers! Several folks have pointed it out to me - all I succeeded in doing was disconnecting it from the top 🤣
I see lots of people using the Tamiya cement. What is so good about it? Is it something to do with the fact it has a brush thing to apply the actual cement rather than a tube which dries up?
Great vid, love your channel
Thanks! The brush applicator, and the fact you can put two parts together and run the glue into the seam is really helpful
Basically the fact that it is quick drying.
Thanks for the replies guys!
It’s very quick to dry and you can hold two pieces together and rely on capillary action to draw the cement into the gaps between them. If you want to be able to adjust pieces after they’ve been glued I use the thicker tube glue.
Can I ask where you get the sheets of sanding sponge and sanding sticks from please? Great video 👍🏼
I got mine from a local hobby store. Yiu can also pick them up online - Tamiya do the sanding sponge 👍🏻
Hello , do you happen to have a link to where you buy your sanding sponges ?
Not sure where you are but these are the ones amzn.to/424A0aZ
Obviously support your local hobby store if you can :)
@@ThePaintingCoach Thanks these look great , i would to love to support a local hobby shop sadly there are few shops close to me i supose thats what i get for being out of the way on dartmoor , Thanks for the fast reply.
No worries at all - lovely part of the world!!
Sliced nearly the entire pad of my thumb off trying to rebase a mini once, I am never underestimating those little blades ever again 😅
Thank you very much for this video!! Always excellent instructions!
Any suggestions for those of us who don’t have a bottle of Tamia but would like to make a sprue goo? I’ve been using the GW glue. But I’ll gladly pick up an Extra thin, just don’t know how to not waste glue.
Thanks Doug - apparently Tamiya airbrush cleaner does the same thing - although I am yet to try this myself!
I still use thicker glue on large parts and also when glueing something to the base!
I tried the Tamiya cement on the Cadia Stands box, and I had some issues with the arms on the Guardsmen dropping off or breaking off the bases easily - thinking I must have been doing something wrong as I've seen so many people recommending it.
Hmm not sure - I have never had any issues like that with it 🤔 with heavier models I use a thicker glue on the base like GW or Revell Contacta
@@ThePaintingCoach I've got more than the average pile of shame to work through, so plenty of time to give it another go :D Contacta is my previous go-to so I've got some of that here too, just I get fed up of having to unclog the nozzle :D
I share in the huge pile of shame - or as my patreons call it, the pile of opportunity!
@@ThePaintingCoach Sounds like something I should embrace from my fellow Patreons then :D
I appreciate it! I assume that is you in the Discord :)
One thing I have a hard time is basing.
Not sure if to build my bases before painting a model, or if I should paint my model while it's on the base, or if I should just paint models without any basing.
Basing is the only thing that keeps slowing me down on the hobby cause just the thought of having to build my bases (though fun), takes away from painting.
I always do simple bases for tabletop minis - just some texture paste and some tufts
Lightly super glue a foot to a completely bare base. Prime and paint your model and then enjoy gaming with it. When you have time, snap the model off the base and do cool funky bases and paint it. Then superglue your model more securely back onto the finished base. Yay, profit - hope that helps
Fantastic video!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I’m off to try out some sprue-glue…
Cheers
Loved this
Cheers!
For some reason I always try to remove the scar that the moldline leaves behind when removing. I always fail or remove to much in the hope that is gone 😂 good tips like always
the motorized pin vice is totally worth it
great tip on the sprue goo! tha's a nice addition to my hobby tools =)
Cheers
Does anyone have tips to share in regards to the the "stands" he usually uses while painting? I'm looking to paint my first models and I can already see myself smearing paint by holding the model itself instead of the things he's usually using which are connected to the base or the individual piece
I use a Redgrass Games holder - highly recommended - you can also get different style versions from citadel and other brands, called s painting holder 👍🏻
@@ThePaintingCoach I appreciate the response! For the long thin painting holders you use for individual model pieces I'm guessing those are usually jury rigged with putty and toothpicks, or something equivalent?
Ah, so that is a paperclip straightened out. Drill a small hole on the bottom of the mini, glue in the paper clip, and then pop the other end into a cork bottle stopper. Wine bottle corks are usually too narrow for this - so have a look for a cork bottle stopper such as those used in labs, as they have a wider area that will support the weight of the piege and not constantly fall over.
Sometimes, I use just the cork with blu-tac if there is enough surface area to get hold of
How do you clean the model before you paint it?
I find GW plastic doesn't need any more cleanup and you can prime directly on this
Love the vids! Any mechanicus tutorials on the way?
Thanks - none planned - I have just the one on skitarii
Awesome tutorial!! Keep up the great work! 👍🏽😌
Cheers
FYI you can pull out the applicator in the Tamiya extra thin, so you would'nt waste that anyway.
Awesome video 👍. Thank You.
Thanks!
Quick question - I’ve been priming my models with no arms attached to the model. This means when I attach the arms it’s paint on paint rather than grey plastic on grey plastic. Haven’t had any issues so far however some people say not to do that. A worker at my local Warhammer store said it’s fine due to the plastic melting anyway but I just wanted to get your thoughts as there seems to be a lot of conflicting opinions?
The bond might be less strong as you are essentially melting paint to paint - if you want to be extra sure, you can scrape away the paint on the connection points with a hobby knife to get the best bond
@@ThePaintingCoach amazing thanks for the advice! Will do this going forward. As always, thanks for the great content dude 👍😁
Is that bad to paint separated,like body and arms
No you paint what works for you!
Cool tutorial. 👍
Cheers!
Do you wash your minis before painting?
I don't with plastic - unless it looks greasy with a mould release agent. I always wash resin
Double follow. TikTok and here. Love it.
I never really thought to use the Tamiya to get rid of mold lines. Mind blown.
Really helps with those awkward ones!
Very good.
Thanks!
Good tips
I’d give more feedback but I’m in awe of those heavy intercessors. I’m a guard player, we don’t have anything like that 😂
Great video
Thanks!
Next video, how to bloody hell SPRAY the model?
I am affraid to mess up or get the cracking when I see people fail at spraying a model... :(
Do I have to put the spraycans in warm water? for how long?
Do I have to have certain speed between spraying zenithal? like max 10 minutes before spraying black and then the other color ontop?
How long burst?
Distance spraycan to model?
How to get the models on a sick, or whatever cork lying around? Bluetack, glue, GW model holder stick?
Humidity? cold? warm?
Can I speed up the process of drying between spray? or is there some reason why I would want to spray zenithal while the black color is settling?
Halp! :(
I have know idea why I didn’t think about wearing a thimble before. I can’t believe how many knicks this would have saved.
Yeah I got bored of cutting myself 🤣
Fun life hack: plastic glue is basically the exact same stuff as airbrush cleaner, except it comes with a handy applicator. Now airbrush cleaner is a lot cheaper by volume, so using that can be a great way to save a little money.
Just make sure that you don't use a synthetic brush to apply it. Or you might find yourself losing a brush.
keep a sharp blade too, the sharper blade is actually safer since you dont have to use much force to get your cut and risk it slipping and cutting you
Merci !
Merci beaucoup!
Pro tips!
😅if you’re an adult, maker sure you have an additional adult. That one was just gold!
oui
The main thing I learned is that my sprue glue probably has too much sprue in it, yours is looking a lot thinner and easier to apply.
Thumb protection, damn... Things I wish I'd known before my thirties
Same haha!
ive also gotten to where i undercoat or prime while everything is on sprue.. MUCH easier
I’ve had a Monument Tools hobby knife for over a year now that is still sharp. The back of the blade is also great for removing mould lines.
tamiya extra thin and their airbrush cleaner is the same thing, price is vastly different though
A thimble? Nah, that's what band aids are for!
yes, thumb thimble because you are pushing the knife from one hand into the other... or just cut towards the same hand so no thumb thimble is needed :|
Do they make those studded thimbles in a larger sizes? Lol, just asking for my wife.
No idea - I imagine they do 🤷🏼♂️
I'm still waiting for your "Airbrush Your Warhammer Like a Pro" video!
Me who builds the model in 2 seconds without removing mold lines 🥴
‘Glue is expensive’ … has a bottle of sprue gu, the biggest waste of Tamiya thin going. Lol
Tubes of proper filler are so much cheaper
Da iawn
Diolch
Pro Tipp for using blades safely, do not cut in the direction of yr own hand 😅
sub assemblies are only useful for characters, for rank and file it's not really worth it
No band-aids in your prep? What is this amateur hour?
🤣
I use my sharp ass uncut goblin fingernails to scrape them mould lines
if u feel good about u video m8 u dont need a poll btw nice video