Which Tamiya plastic cement is best?
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- Опубликовано: 5 сен 2019
- Are you curious about Tamiya plastic glues and want to know which is best? Have you heart Tamiya Extra Thin is the best plastic glue but can only get Revell? Lets find out together.
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The various Tamiya cements are intended for different applications, so they can't be properly 'performance' compared. I use the three Tamiyas plus the Revell Contacta, but for different applications / circumstances and they all do well in their intended situations.
That was a very simple way to explain the differences in these cements thanks so much!!!
Good video! I am just getting into modeling and bought a Tamiya Spitfire model. I was not sure which cement I should use. This video definitely helped me. Thank you!
Extra Thin is not junk, it works very well for small parts with delicate contact points and flows quickly into the joint. I use also the other thin green cap bottle and the thicker orange cap bottle and those three of Tamiya glue only. Some builders hate Testors tube glue but I use it also because for big surfaces it works in fact it's the strongest glue there is! If it strings I just remove it.
Thank you I have been wondering about this.
Thank you for the comment. People always recommended extra thin and curiosity made me wonder if it was the best or just the most common.
As you become more experienced, you'll come to understand that different products have different purposes. You're comparing apples with oranges here so maybe you should think about a video showing how each should be used instead of saying which you believe is better based on a bit of rough cut sprue and card ;)
The different cements are for different purposes. The thick Tamiya cement (white and orange tops - it is the same) is for joining large pieces where you can apply before contact. Extra thin uses capillary action. Parts can be aligned before applying a touch of glue. Some joints do not need to be strong.
I've never found capillary action worked very well for me. It never reaches quite the length I want it to and I find it gives me uneven bonds which need additional putty.
Good post there, these are for different purpose.
For small parts, you definitely don't want to use the white/orange lid glue, it will melt the small part, the extra thin is best used to that purpose.
Also you can use the quick set type for scratbuilding/customization work, like holding a part to a specific place then removing it later for painting/modification.
Don't take it badly but your video is lacking on key information related to when to use each paint.
@@dobiqwolf I never took scratch building into account. I would be concerned with the cement damaging the part and making the final bond worse. Do you use it a lot to scratch build?
@@minismodelsanddioramas2494 I use both Tamiya thin and white lid cements, for the quick set I use the Mr Hobby equivalent.
One useful trick is to swap the green and white lids so you can better control the application and amount of the normal cement; that's how I use the white cement.
To answer you question, I hardly use the white cement for two reasons:
- it takes too long for curing
- I rarely works with large enough plastic pieces that warrant its use.
@@dobiqwolf That's a good tip, when my extra thin runs out I'll give it a go.
If I want fast drying I normally go for loctite super glue. I use plastic cement mostly when I'm looking to adjust the pose like gluing 2 hands on 1 weapon. That maybe why my preference goes the way it does.
Nice vid man 👍
Maybe do some research before saying Tamiya Extra Thin is "complete junk". It is not meant to work the same or be used for the same purpose as Revell Contacta which basically melts the plastic parts together for a very strong bond. Tamiya Extra Thin is outstanding for assembling individual link tracks precisely BECAUSE it only forms a weak and very flexible bond which allows the modeller to adjust the assembled but not yet set track assembly into the tricky positions required to mount tracks in place.
A bit of knowledge sometimes goes a long way especially when passing judgement on things you don't know that much about.
This is a serious question as I'm currently trying to figure out what cement should I buy. I currently have HGAC Wing Gundam and Heavy arms and both of their V-Fins are popping off. What cement should I buy?
@@stygianfps buy the white tamya cement it's strong and sturdy.
@@Raygraze thanks.
This is exactly what I was thinking as I watched this video, they each have different applications so not really fair to compare them in this manner.
Great review
great stuff
The white and orange bottles are the exact same product and differ only in volume. They are 40% n-butyl acetate, 40% acetone, 7% cyclohexane, 2% 3-methoxy-3-methylbutyl acetate, the latter two chemicals significantly increasing the "hotness". The darker green "Extra Thin" is about 50/50 n-butyl acetate and acetone, and the Tamiya brand Airbrush Cleaner is the same chemical combination at the same concentrations or within a few percent, leading many people to use this product to refill or in place of the Extra Thin. It works the same and the price difference is significant (I pay about 4¢/mL for the airbrush cleaner vs. 17¢/mL for the Extra Thin cement). The lighter green "Extra Thin Quick Setting" is 40% ethyl acetate, 40% acetone, 20% 2-butanone (also known as methylethyl ketone - "MEK"). Revell Contacta is n-butyl acetate.
There's also the Tamiya Limonene-based plastic cements, which are 85%+ d-Limonene, 10% styrene, and 1-2% of each of α-terpinene and α-pinene. Not exactly "safe", but a lot safer than the rest.
The information on composition and concentrations comes from Tamiya and Revell safety data sheets.
What do you mean "safe"?
Does the white top Tamiya cement need shaking before using? Shaking it makes it a lot thicker and this is how I use it. Any advice welcome.
Nice video man, I just wanna fix my rx-78-2 revive horns
Is the plastic card and the sprue 2 different plastics?
How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?
You never put glue on painted areas, you glue the actual plastic. A lot of people "forget" this simple fact.
Thanks, this helped me.
Which you recommend to erase seam lines? I'm using mig ammo extra thin cement, but I Wonder if any tamiya is better...
Use the orange one and mix it with a runner piece. Cut the runner in tiny pieces and mix it with the cement until it becomes a paint consistentcy apply to seam line let it dry and sand and
@@tonydiazist which orange one ? The big one in the video or the small one ?
@@Phoenix-gi9kx ruclips.net/video/PVltgEpdR0Y/видео.html
@@tonydiazist ik but what's the name of the tamiya full name
@@Phoenix-gi9kx it's the original just "taimiya plastic cement"
Hello sir it's the orange bottle is good for the broken v fin and horns of the Gundam kits?
orange and white bottle are same.
It can be used for joints as well because when you let it cure for 24+ hours, it became crazy strong.
Which one would you recommend for painted parts?
Don't All these glues work by melting and bonding the plastic part. Use super glue on painted parts
extra thin is meant to go sprue to sprue. the plastic melting creates a weld. the white plastic your using is not really compatable, Unless it is the same type. but i have great results with extra thin
Apples and oranges.
How long time did you let the glue set for? Did you presand the surfaces? (adhesion will be 29,3 times better) Did you glue just one side or both? How long did you wait before mating the surfaces? (waiting a bit usually pays off) The thin variants will evaporate very quickly so is better for smaller parts because they take less time to apply the glue to. Thicker glue is better for bigger parts that require more time to apply the glue to as it will not evaporate as quickly. You forgot to mention exactly what you mean by "Best" You need to state these things if you are making a serious review. I am sure the quick setting solution can be applied to more things than just dryfitting, so calling a Tamiya product "junk" is a grosse miscalculation on your part. i like how you say we "may" be able to obtain some of these cement types depending on our LHS. This is the age of the internet so we can order anything we like online, no problem. You also fail to specify that the Tamiya cements with the white and orange lids are thick glues. What about the Revell glue, what consistency is that? I mean how can i know if you`re not telling me this? I would love to know more about the exact material you used for carrying out this test because you don`t say anything about it. The way you snap off the two elements you glued together (in my opinion) should have been pulled straight away from eachother to give a more realistic result. Lots of modelers don`t understand that these acetone based glues melt the plastics together ONLY if you do it correctly and thus will yield an incredibly strong bond.
2019 video but I have zero clue if the internet was at the point where you can order stuff no problem(just a clueless dude here but I must say your comment was well written)
29.3 times better huh? How did you gauge that figure?
here is my recipe for thin cement, which works exactly like Tamiya....
50% lacquer thinner + 50% Acetone
this will have much less odor than cellulose thinner/ lacquer thinner on its own, and less odor than Tamiya thin cement...
the acetone facilitates fast clean evaporation, with some solvent power, the lacquer thinner is the stronger solvent that melts the plastic.
enjoy ;O)
Extra thin is not a cement, first mistake. It melts plastic and is for 2 surfaces that are already in contact, and uses capillary action to bond.
So much science here…. 🤦🏻♂️
yeah the white & orange are the same, just the mls
my head explode
For me, those are just different types of glue. I don't believe on the different types for different purposes. The main reason you buy those is to fix broken things so why settle for lesser bonding? No sense at all. I'd rather just buy the TC white top 👍
The only one that do not "perform the best" here is you! Learn a bit before throwing around wrong informations. You obviously don't have the minimal knowledge to give any kind of advise on this subject.