Product Review / Tutorial : Tamiya Extra Thin Cement & Mr.Cement S
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- Опубликовано: 19 июн 2013
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I just started building scale models again after 35 years and I started my first kit with the generic tube cement and got a mess all over my F-14 Tomcat. I RUclipsd how to remove the glue and found out about both of these products and I have built an F-22 Raptor, using mostly the Tamiya extra thin cement, as my second build and my results were MILES a part from the mess, that you described, about gluing the 2 halves and putting them together and it squirted all over and I got huge glue fingerprints all over the wings and fuselage seams. Ugh. These glues have made me step up in the world of modeling and I was quite proud of myself for having a much cleaner second build. Thank you so much for this video.
Mr cement destroys plastic pretty fast so I prefer using Tamiya extra thin cement even do it smells worse and have a slower drying time. The slower drying time is good if you need some extra time to join the pices, especially small ones witch I often loose because I an clumsy.
Thank you for the information. I remember the old model cement from the 60's and it was thick. I used to use a toothpick to apply the glue to the model pieces. Just getting back into modeling. I've been retired now for a year, and I'm just bored. So, I thought I would get back into model building. So, I'm getting all the info on these new models as I can.
oh cool, thanks for this lmao, i couldnt figure out how to properly use the extra thin cement and was trying to use it like regular glue LMAO no wonder it wouldnt stick
Bruhhhhhhhhh lolol
Yeah, same here, this video was so helpful
I use the Tamiya Extra Thin to do repairs to model trains. I had refit the horns on a Hornby Class 60 as it wasn't checked when it left the factory. But now it looks better with the horns reattached and the model glue however does attack the paint, so be careful with that stuff folks.
Nice, informative video - thank you! Cheers, from Texas!
Glad it was helpful!
you're a legend for this
Thank you for actually explaining the difference between the glues. ❤
your tutorial the best . no wonder i saw some one build model kit without using putty & sanding .
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. In the Gunpla community Tamiya is more popular but Mr Cement is more avaliable to me.
Great video, thanks!
You're welcome!
Hello, thank you for the video! I was looking to compare but didnt see the difference, now i kno!
Glad I could help!
An excellent applicator is the "Touch-N-Flow" applicator available from Micro-Mark, on Amazon, and elsewhere. Deluxe Materials makes something similar as their DLMAC11 "Pin Flow Applicator". This type of applicator is a pipette with an EXTREMELY small tube on the end. You can use it with any of the liquid plastic cements like styrene cements like Tamiya or Testors and other types like Plastruct Plastic Weld and similar for more difficult plastics. I have done a vast amount of plastic assembly and don't know how I ever lived without one after I got it. I just NEVER use a brush anymore. In the video example of going down the joint with the brush, instead you just touch the tip of the applicator and the cement wicks into the joint. Faster, neater. The instructions say that to fill it you put the open end of the pipette down into the cement container, cement goes up into the tube, and then you turn it over and that cement moves down to the end with the small tube. I find it faster to fill it by drawing cement in as if it were a straw, but NOT using your mouth. I have a piece of model airplane tubing and squeeze bulb and temporarily affix the tubing to the open end with the squeeze bulb compressed, put the fine tip into the cement, and release the squeeze bulb. This draws in the cement and also helps the situation where dust and debris might settle at the bottom of the glass tube blocking the opening to the tiny tube.
Wow! Thanks for posting that. Im new to the hobby and the brush was driving me nuts. So inefficient and wasteful. Im ordering one asap.
@@velveetaslingshot Just realize that they can get a little fussy. If you jab the tip into softened plastic, you can clog it. They recommend soaking it in the bottle of liquid cement to clear it. I'm not that patient. I take one strand from some stranded 30 gauge wire (this is a VERY small wire strand) and work it into the metal tube to clean it. Also, I have not found a way to prevent tiny debris from eventually getting inside and wanting to block tiny hole into the needle. So it might need to have that cleaned out occasionally. And after I let my first one roll of onto the floor and break, I always keep a spare. Also, I found that with typical styrene liquid cements, they don't evaporate extremely fast in the tube and if leave it in the tube there seems to still be quite a bit the next day. But for something like the Micro-Mark "Same Stuff" (same as Tenax 7R) for plastics more difficult to bond, it evaporates completely from the tube overnight. Finally, you don't try to fill the tube all the way. Maybe half way at most. And depending how full it is, if you hold it vertically for example, a drop will form at the tip quickly if half full, and much more slowly if only barely full. So you get a little more control if you don't over fill which will allow the cement to exit more from contact and surface tension than flowing out by gravity. And when it sits on its side, cement won't come out either end which is convenient.
@@trainliker100 Thanks for the advice!
@@trainliker100 I have that problem to. I used to blow down the tube or suck as needs be. Eventually, the glass tube gets condensation in it and the blockages get more frequent in a vicious cycle. And if you use the same bottle of solvent (its not really cement which fills a void, its MEK solvent which melts the plastic surfaces together) to also apply it by brush, then residue dissolved plastic finds its way into the bottle. Eventually your pure bottle of solvent gets to contaminated for Pin Flow Applicator (PFA) use. So now I have one old bottle for brush application use & cleaning the PFA and a separate pristine bottle of solvent for filling the PFA. Mark the bottles accordingly. I also use a bit of rough surfaced cardboard to act like blotting paper to get the PFA flow started before every use on a model. The card can be used to suck the remaining unused solvent out of the tube, so don't try to save the solvent by blowing down the PFA tube.
I agree with your filling advice.
what is the mr cement PLO1;300 pen used for i cant find much info
the orange pen
Thanks for this! :) i have a question i hope you would be able to answer for me, im just starting with tank models, im about to build my third one. Now in all of the building manuals, it says i need plastic glue, and cement, is there a difference other than what you explained in glue and cement? Thanks in advance :)
they are the same thing both glue
One of my kit had a broken joint and i want to know which glue do you prefer to fix it? (It's a moon Gundam leg part)
if its abs then get the abs variant and if not any other variant will do
can tamiya glue as well as MR.cement glue painted plastics?
do they still have a grip with paint?
you can get away with it but is best to sand where you want to glue for best resaults
@@genessismodels I think the same way, but I see many montages where they glue pieces painted with green cap tamiya glue, they probably cleaned the pieces before making the video.
Are these stronger than the glue you would get with a cheap revvel or aifix kit I found when I used to build models years ago fhsf they went very strong at holding plastics together also as u say they do make a mess
Those old tube glue had fillers in them so it created a false bond. The Tamiya and Mr Cement break the plastic down and welds the parts together. Basically there plenty strong.
How do you prevent the brush from picking up paint and then discolouring the rest of the glue in the bottle?
depends what your glueing, but a bit of discotouring in the bottle is no big deal, you can clean the brush if you want with paper towel
... if you are a hard-core modeller you can save a lot of money, when you brew your glue DIY ... your order 1 Liter of Butylacetat at your next pharmacy and 1 Liter of Aceton ... mix them together 1:1 and you've got enough glue for the next years. That brew works similar than Tamiya Extrathin ... smells the same and you could re-activate your dried out putty, to give them a second life. That's all together for about 20 Euro or a liitle less in US Dollars !!
Interesting. Do you build so many models that you used up all of your modelling glue? I thought a bottle would last very very long time 🤔
What glue would you recommend for Resin? I've tried the Tamiya stuff and it doesn't seem to glue anything
You need to use ca glue or epoxy for resin parts.
Perhaps Tamiya Extra Thin Quick Set is comparable in drying time to Mr. Cement S.
Does Tamiya Thin work well on GW models?
yeah works better than GW glue
9nstead of this cement can I just use plastic glue?
Yes
Yes its just this stuff is easier makes less of a mess.
This glue is verry toxic also. Do i have to be wary about that?
Find the one that citrus based takes a little longer to set. Or just get a small desk fan when your messing with the glue. Or were a painting mask.
@@zacharyradford5552 how much longer?
Why pay a fiver for it,buy the pink top airbrush cleaner,its the same stuff,you get 6 times the amount and if you add some clear plastic sprue to it,you can have whatever viscosity you want.
Hope this helps those want to save money.
Just remember to put a label on it,so you don't mess up your airbrush,or better still decant it into your empty glass bottle.
Best of both worlds
This cement sucks. Multiple projects ruined because of it. Including my table because it for some reason works on paper but not plastic.