My First Steel Deck Framing Job
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- Опубликовано: 1 авг 2024
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With the total lack of quality in pressure treated since the lumber shortage, I'm actually super jealous that you guys get to work with a dimensionally perfect product.
I've been seeing ⅝ variance in the width of boards all summer long. Total pain to build a nice flat walking surface with such terrible flaws in the milling. I mean pressure treated has always been a pain but holy cow it's gotten bad lately.
It’s great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan’s ruclips.net/user/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
Im so excited to have found Fortress before I started my deck. I live in North Carolina and the humidity quickly rots wood. Sounds like a great material.
Sorry to hear about the loss of your mother-in-law. And the project looks great, as always. Enjoy watching your content.
Installed a deck with this product last year (as a DIY) because it was the same price (or maybe less) than wood. I really liked that everything was straight. And the way they do stairs is ingenious. And easy.
itll last forever too. this is the first time ive seen this, but it seems superior to wood. especially if it doesnt cost much more at all
Such a great channel. This particular episode just helped me check off all my projects: need an above ground deck, ground deck , sliding door and fencing. Thanks Matt.
Matt I said it once I'll say it again, your channel is quite possibly the most informative on building science on youtube..I get so much out of your videos. THANKS BUD!!! Really WELL DONE!!!
Thanks for the vid, Matt. I was trying to convince my dad to build a deck with a steel frame, now I can show him how it looks from start to finish.
Very interesting and looks great. For the skirting I have located them about 12" inboard from the edge of deck and it gives a nice floating deck effect.
This is AWESOME!!!!! I just read about all of this in my Architecture course, Architect Technology. What I read is exactly what they're talking about, and it's so awesome to see this in real life! :D
1:20 Matt, I'd like to offer a different perspective on mounting the deck flush with the bottom of the door. In South East Pennsylvania, we have snow... That can prevent you from opening a door. It can melt and ice dam and flood under the door threshold damaging the subfloor. IMHO, Getting the water proofing details right on a flush install is much more difficult. I much prefer having a step down, so that our crew can properly flash the door pan, and also add flashing to the top of the deck ledge board to prevent water from damaging the wood structure is the home behind the ledge board.
Would love to know more why you don't like step downs.
I suspect it is asthetics and for ease of walking in.trip hazard.but at athreshold I am always into a step as well. helps keep the ehavy rain out. A old school building thing from the past that still lingers in my head as a requirement.
Great views and Beautiful Decks. I would put a sliding door at the one end of the main deck for extra storage under your deck.
So glad to see somebody else is using this I'm getting ready to do one of these for a customer in about a month we did month we did 1 from trex when trex used to sell it they are the best system out there hands down
Hi Matt, I'm from Montreal and have built my own house 35 years ago. I have applied insulation and other systems that were not even used at the time, things that you have featured in your very informative publications.
When I saw today that you are featuring the building of a steel deck I nearly fell off my chair. Since early last year I have been researching the subject. I am presently putting the final touches on an 18 by 12 feet two level steel deck behind my house. I checked Fortress' products but they were unavailable here. I opted for a canadian made Baileys Truedeck system. All exterior grade galvanized steel, shipped in a precut kit. The assembly, done by myself with the precious help from my wife, was a charm and it will last way longer than me (I'm 71). I installed my beams 24 inches on center and the whole deck is covered with Daltile's Xterior brand porcelain tiles (24"x24"x¾") I used Gator Base spacers and stainless steel perimeter brackets to keep the tiles in place. All around the steel is covered with the same tape used to cover wood joists so that no porcelain comes in contact with the steel. I will use the same guardrails you have chosen for your deck. Keep showing us the innovations in building techniques and materials. There are too many trades people who are still living in the 50's. I am a retired businessman but I know my way around a construction site.
Sounds like a classy looking deck!
This video and the content of the construction of the sophisticated patio as the solution the way to choose was very well done. Thank you so much for this display of a super nicely illustrated chosen system and execution to completed project.
Beautiful job sorry for your loss. No one is ever ready, but surprise loss is difficult.
Simple, strong, adjustable, flat and has longevity. Love it
Sorry for you loss. Your work and videos are great. I would recommend continuing that rail down to the bottom of the stairs. That is still a ways to fall and that edging below is a steel edge. Most people don't bounce well...
Great video, sorry for your loss. Im in California, just did a steel / pan deck, i was motivated to go steel for fire resistance.
This is great, I like working with steel. Its so much more stable then wood and its not looking to bad.
Wish I’d seen this when I built my deck. Looks fantastic
I'm thinking of adding a balcony to my house. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated.
Amazing job, thanks Matt
Really liked this as an option. I think we are going to be using this on our build.
Intriguing system. We looked at this for a commercial roof top deck for an assembly use. However, with the live load needing to be 100 PSF, the spans would not have worked out due limitations of the existing substructure. In the end we went with wolmanized 1 3/4 ×11 1/4 microlams at 12 O.C. Hope to add it to a future project.
That level slide was slick. Way to convey your point with panache.
Sorry about your loss. Great episode.
Matt, it turned out great, it will look good for years.
One of my big concerns is rust/corrosion. Also possible tin sound as you walk on it.
That and Wasps building in the steel rails
SERIOUSLY? LMAO
I am sure a company manufacturing steel products gave no thought to rust or corrosion LOL - fortressbp.com/Documents/framing-sales-sheet-4-20-web-0.pdf
Sounds no different than a traditional wood deck. The only area accessible to the bugs are the weep holes in the bottoms of the joists. The ends have caps to cover the openings.
@@foreigner1999 Yeah - you are right. No difference in longevity and strength between steel and wood!
Beautiful!
I've never seen such a large crew to frame a deck!
Right lol this is a three man job, tops.
I was thinking the same thing. He said it only took a couple hours, and with a crew that size I would expect it to only be a couple hours or less.
Hey Matt, I would love to hear a follow video on your deck now that you have had it for a summer or two. Especially how it handled the heat and such.
Hey Matt! I actually used fortress for my close to grade deck here in Massachusetts. Perfectly straight a couple years later. This is definitely the way to go
Why not use PT if you're in New England? Wood was cheap until Bidenomics came for diesel prices
@@digginz8603Stop. Be smarter.
@@mmf8016 When people give you a hard time about voting for a pedophile with dementia you should respond, "Beethoven did his best work after he went deaf!"
@@digginz8603 because the length and height of the deck meant that I could use smaller framing materials 2x6 vs 2x10 in my framing. And it meant straight and true no matter how long it took me to build it! Which was, by myself,at nights, 2 summers. Mine was much more complicated than Matt's.
@foreigner1999 are you a contractor? And where are you in Mass?
Been watching your videos a long time Matt. Sorry for your loss of a loved one.
Oh dude. So sorry to hear about your mother-in-law. Sincere condolences to you and your family. The "wine deck" is a fun and fitting little memorial where she can be remembered fondly.
Corrosion is going to kill that in the rust belt if its not galvanized. Tubes will rust from the inside out where powder coating is not able to reach.
Me at start of video: "...I wonder why he would use a metal deck on thi..."
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This is awesome, but I bet awesomely expensive too.
I would want this for my homes flooring too!
Building residential and commercial for almost 50 years and remember before OSB and pressure treated, no nail guns and most moldings ,casings and trims were cut with mechanical miter saws and I could go on and on. I've seen marvelous new products and the tools and means for building from the ground up , many of these are here to stay and some are already being replaced but I've also found some to be not what was promoted of them by people that are not around after 20 to 30 years. I've seen many products fail over the years , brick, wood , vinyl, composites and synthetics of all types and yes it changes with the Zip Codes ( climate and weather) There is one thing that will never ever change if you want something that will last generations .........MAINTENANCE! Once you build it , it must be maintained and there is no such thing as maintenance free . It is true that some are more maintenance free than others ....such as a log home and a brick home , wood soffits vrs vinyl soffits but I've lived long enough to see simple homes with wood and even the cheap Masonite sidings built in the 60S and 70s still holding up and looking like they had just been built , just because of them being washed and painted when needed . Sun and rain is your biggest home killer , followed by too much shade and not enough sun. Log homes require far more maintenance than most homes but when you build one with a porch porch all the way around with no open decks and keeping much or most of the sun and rain off the walls and porch decks........you just cut 50 to 80 % of your maintenance and yet you still have more maintenance than you would a brick home. You match the right paints and the right oil or water base sealers and build with the sun and weather in mind and keep up the maintenance then you will be a happier down the road that you have protected your investment, some people take care of their cars and trucks and some could care less and some are the same with their homes, many simply believe that maintenance means that you wait until it's falling apart .........then you fix it.
Beautiful Job; Love how you Heart is in it for Family.
Looks great
Prayers and condolences to you and yours🙏❤️🕊️.
Trex sells a similar product and when I redesign my deck with my 3D cad program I’ll figure out how much it will cost to do it with steel. Less members, less support and I can do 2 to 3 levels since my deck area would be expanded and more open and usable. I would step it down to the yard and provide protection for the pad underneath for a secluded hot tub.
In my area wasps would love those weep holes
can add filter materials
With the declining quality of PT lumber, I like this system. Also, 4ft cantilever is unheard of with PT!
Sister a another one to get you there
get an engineer and you can do whatever you want!
@Adirondack Homestead That would not meet code where I am. 2' max. cantilever with 2x12x20' 12" O C. for a deck.
@@kstorm889 You can do what the engineer wants, & that's not usually an uncomplicated route to take.
@@probuilder961 or be an engineer yourself then do whatever you want!
I like the span! Can we get an update on the ledger board install? I am confused how the steel looks pressed against pt wood. Are there spacers and ledger screws between the wood and house? Did the ledger have to be tied in between exterior and interior?
I have a situation that I need to connect a beam protruding from the house foundation. This is because I have a 2-ft. cantilevered bayview rear sliding doorway, which I cannot connect the S channel ledger to. This system, from what I can gather after reading literally ALL the documentation appears to provide no support for this fairly common situation whatsoever, which may force me to choose wood framing in the end. The best I can come up with is to reinforce and notch the end of the beam and cut the exterior joist banding of the house open to receive this notch to have it rest on the bottom plate. I suspect I would have a very difficult time getting this past the city folks unless I could prove the engineering was sound.
So I've been following Fortress for a while now. I came across them on the show floor a few years back. In fact, I have always planned on using them when constructing my parents retirement home with a 3/4 wraparound porch. The project has evolved since they finished up with the architect, so now it's a screened in porch, and a three Seasoned room; all underneath a covered roof.
Matt you mention you do not like a step down. What about the northern climates with snow drift and melting? I've always used a 1" step down with flashing to prevent water damage.
Maybe I missed it but, what type of coating is on the deck framing? I'm concerned about rust staining and eventual rust through. Great video and a great system!
So sorry to hear about Mimi. May she rest in peace.
Powder coated.
It is also galvanized under the Powdercoat.
Why black? In Texas?
@@EcoAquaticaif it’s also galvanized this ought to easily last decades.
Great video! 👍
Literally couldn't have seen it that fast 😮
It's a little late, but condolences on your loss. Nice introduction for me, to Steel decking.
13:00 my biggest complain with composite decking is that it gets scalding hot... Children, pets, barefeet, it's worse than concrete. How does apex feel to walk on in Texas sun at noon in your bare feet?
Camo Edge X Metal clips are awesome
I'd be fine with this maybe in the south west where it's dry ... in the north east I would be very nervous about it rusting to dust.
I built a pressure treated deck in 2008. In 2019 I had to replace 5 joists and about half of the deck boards. And I also treated a bunch of small rot patches in the remaining joists with epoxy. This year I'm replacing the all the stair treads, a few risers and using epoxy to treat the rot patches in the stair stringers. My next house will not have any pressure treated lumber on the exterior. PT lumber is just a temporary solution. Even above ground, the best you can hope for is 10-15 years before it needs major repairs. The deck on my next house will be steel framed. I don't care how much more it costs. If you are staying in the house more than 10 years, it doesn't make any sense to use PT lumber.
Where do you live. I’m in the midwest and my pressure treated boards are holding up well after 15 years with no maintenance. Still going to use the Fortress system for the next deck though. PT quality is just too terrible.
@@adaptedbythedans I live in GA and just finished replacing the remainder of the joists this summer and any 5/4 deck boards that didn't get replaced in 2019. Once the rot gets started, there is no stopping it.
I've seen the Fortress System and would use something similar if I build an exposed deck. I'm building a new home soon and the deck will be fully enclosed. So the wood won't get wet. But I may still insist on a steel structure.
I won't use a wood product that is exposed for any exterior surface or structure in the future.
Have you pulled up any decking to see if the deck boards or joists show any signs of rot? The boards will look fine. But the rot starts at the screw holes then follows the grain down the board. You have to remove the board in order to find it in the early stages.
I would like to see, 36" rails and pickets, roof, benches, and more as well as all of this fastens to the steel carcass.
Amazing job, the deck looks fantastic! I’m sorry if I missed it but where did you purchase the kit? I know you mentioned saving on the cost by buying it all togeather but I can’t find anything but individual pieces of this system.
Impressive. Only a 15% to 25% increase seems like money well spend. And almost 1M subscribers. Congrats.
Went with treated lvl, costs less, similar warranty. Was quoted 10-20k more in Denver area for steel, many quotes
Do you have to start with the wood ledger as appeared on this project?
Another option would be to use cee-purlins in 14 or 16-gauge, attached with Simpson angle clips and Tek screws... I was taught to always first try to solve a detail using stock materials; for obvious reasons.
Matt- How does this product last if you live near the ocean? I find that any steel (except maybe hot dipped galvanized steel) will rust out & quite quickly too. Heck, I put a Feeney Stainless Steel Wire railing system on the guardrails of a deck on my house and they are even rusting slightly. I've got tools like the tables on my drill press & table saw that have started to rust, and they never even leave my garage/shop.
You'd be amazed at the corrosive effect of the sea breeze even though my house is ~1000' inland from the ocean.
Well you could be assured any screw hole will rust out real fast since it will strip off whatever coating is on it during tightening, then the cancer will quickly spread from there.
If that house was for my aging in-laws I'd extend that railing and have a handrail at the steps. I love the product
Don't know about you guys, but I always prefer to leave a door for extra storage under the deck when there's a gap like that. Good place to leave winter tires and the likes
Sip of red wine at Easter: for me.
🌏🇦🇺
What about sound when you walk on the deck? I love that the metal will last a long time, but can you hear the metal creaking together when walking on this kind of a system?
The decking damps it.
I'd imagine not. If you bolt tightly or weld together, it's not moving, which means it's not rubbing or clanging. Really, I don't see why steal framing isn't already much more common in residential. It's the best investment. Period. A house would be more expensive to buy and build, but would last damn-near forever. And I could totally forsee a strong market for magnetic hanging products, where you'd penetrate the sheetrock, but not the stud itself, and just hold to the stud magnetically..... hmmmmm 🤔
@@mikecousin8523 not really worried about the insulation value in most applications. Can also beaf it up if needed
Very solid when fastened with counter sunk screws and/or hidden fasteners.
The steel is galvanized and powder coated, if scratched you paint that area (with either their small spray can or rust, oleum, professional high-performance enamel flat black 15oz.
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
I wish this video had come out a week sooner! I'm a DIY homeowner, pouring footings this weekend for a new deck in a northern climate. I was going to frame next week. I don't think I can change my plan at this point, but the idea of a steel frame is awesome! Maybe next time.
How are they doubling up the joists on the ends and the middle?
Not a bad price difference between the two methods.
Time is money. When you're a homeowner and you don't have to worry thinking about when you're going to repaint, recoat, sand, recut, replace, recrown boards or anything and then 50 year warranty .... Man... Spend time with the family and pay the price difference and make a phone call if ever needed instead.
Looks great, wish I didn't have to aim for studs on my ledger board tops.
Did those spacers void your warranty though by Camo?
Mimi used for your family too! Cheers to Mimi
I was going to use this system at my house but ran into an issue with the city building department. The code doesn't address steel framing other than it's allowed. Fortress offers extensive testing information on the product and even partnered with a third party company that offered general building guidelines that are stamped by a PE. Even with that, the city wanted a stamped site specific plan. Unfortunately, the lowest cost I could find to have an engineer stamp the site plan was about 2k, coupled with the 35% product premium made it cost prohibitive for me. I could have built two decks for the price of one. It's a shame because it seems like a great, easy to use product. I would definitely check with your city on a permit before buying anything. One last thing. If using the stamped general building guidelines, the poured base is HUGE compared to wood (starting at 24x24) due to the longer spans.
Sometimes it's better to ask for forgiveness than to ask for permission. YMMV
@@WaltWW And, some places will make you rip it out to be petty.
You must live in a blue city/state.
Not your fault that their codes are not inclusive of newest construction tech.
Building permits for a porch.... Sounds like you need to move to another city. (:
Only in the south would a builder say “I don’t like step downs” Cool system!
Any system for pouring concrete on top? Like a pan system that goes on top of the joists that you can pour on?
Matt, I want to build a 1,200 sf FLOATING deck (not anchored to the house), like a big version of your wine deck. Would you recommend using a blank beam with hangers on both sides?
Curious about the feel/comfort of the deck. I believe this is the house where you also installed an additional layer of insulation(?)/underlayment over the concrete floor to soften it when you walk. Does this give a softer feel than wood?
Nothing changes
That looks like something from IKEA I can do myself.
New Sub. Very informative channel.
Made an inquiry about Fortress's steel decking last year by visiting their website. Found dealers in my area and went to one to see about purchasing the product. The dealer, who had never sold any Fortress product before, was told he had to purchase a minimum amount of material from Fortress before they would ship any product to him. He balked because the deck I was looking at constructing was 8 ft x 20 ft, much less than the minimum purchase he was required to make. Also, there were no certified contractors nearby where I live. As a result, Fortress as an option for my deck has been scratched off the list. Too bad, as a DIYer who constructed a Trex Elevations steel deck frame in 2021 this product looks relatively easy to install.
Can you review or tour monolithic dome structures? monolithic domes are fast assembly, strong, and with geopolymer can in theory last millennia. Aircrete casting can be used for very low cost.
Saw some aluminum decks on Holmes shows. Wonder what the price difference is now.
Lowes lists a ‘14 joist for $112.77
The sizes are perfect! Over here thanking The Most High that my son is a welder. No screws. Also, adding a structure, it doesn't have to hang onto/conjoin via screw onto the structure of the home. So many times have I seen homes add a solarium or recreational space, otherwise, and over time- it looks a mess that needs tearing down!
Food for thought: weather the home is on concrete or crawlspace/cinderblocks, it's gonna shift. You don't want a new pull on that structure. It's okay that the addition is independent and the longterm appearance will remain nice!
15:03 you said metal...it's not gonna move on us. Metal is also an element. Now, it's an independent element from the wooden house and concrete slab. In time, you will see what I'm talking about 😬
I used the Fortress Hulk Hidden Fasteners, half of the deck was done and the heads of the screws started popping off at the joist. Fortress said I over-tightened them. I ended up replacing 225 of them and I put them in with my drill on low (1) and the clutch set at 8 out of 24. The next day I had another 8 of the new screws pop and each day after several more popped.
I ended up talking with a guy that installed the same framing and decking, he used the Camo Clips. I am going to end up warranting the screws and fasteners and having to redo everything that I've done with the Hulk Fasteners. UGH!
There was A LOT of figuring to do with this framing system. The online stair calculator doesn't work. I figured out a better way of doing a lot of this framing. (looking to put all this info into a blog)
I installed an L-shape deck and ended up designing a bracket in CAD to attach one side to the house that didn't use a S-Ledger to hang the 2"x11" beams, instead of their suggestion of putting two more cement piers and posts to support it next to the house.
After getting a ridiculous quote for the cable railing, I decided to make my own. Instead of $11,900, it cost me just under $2,000, and that's with high steel prices.
id be interested in hearing more of this. looking into using this product for the first time and i am concerned that in Montana the weather fluctuations will pop screws. Also seems like a major pain in the rear to have to drill out each hole like i saw in this video.
I ended up going with the Camo brand and no issues so far and there been a good amount of weather fluctuations here in Michigan. Yes, there is a bit of work but I won't ever have to replace any of the framing. I had a bunch of ideas and suggested several to Fortress but they didn't seem like they were interested. One issue I saw was that when you sister two or more beams together you have to drill holes so that you can attach a bolt/washers/nut to hold them and then you place an end cap on the end of the beam to prevent pests from making a home... downside you have four 3/4" holes where you drilled to put the bolt. I asked about a cap to cover the holes and their suggestion was for me to go onto amazon and find a plastic cap that would cover that hole. SMH! I figured out a better and easier way. I talked with the head engineer and a couple of the sales guys and they did say that they would love to come out and take pictures since I've done things that they hadn't thought of, but have heard back from them. I was told that the head engineer pass away and the regional sales guy must have quit. That's fine I no longer care if they come. There are a couple tings I would do differently if I did it again.
When skirting a deck, you have to make an access door. You never know when you will need to retrieve a kitten or want to run wiring for lighting.
The skunks are giggling.
The best deck material. This will not rot as long as it is painted. Last forever.
Wow 😲
Maybe adding an ADA compliant ramp to the deck will make this backyard usable for your father in law’s whole life. If that board has the traction you say it does I’ll bet the ramp would blend right in. Maybe Fortress already makes that kind of product.
LMAO..... NOT
How this metal joist system will work in Hawaii weather and air moister content? Thanks.
Looks awesome at the danger area-Elevated Decks! Exterior Elevated Balconys/Decks are the rock that can break the Engineer Contractor back, as these systems are subject to rot, rust and failure under excessive loads. Imagine drunken party people jumping up and down on an older balcony and the possible collapse. Engineer and contractor get sued, engineer looses good design insurance, puts all his assets in wife name, and then over designs by a factor of four and is very faithful to spouse.
I wonder how much more it would be for aluminum so it wouldn't ever rust
I wish my Fortress deck was made like this.
Free standing. Damaged steel: scrapes, the weilds are not flat, but when it rained, the welds have rust, waiting to see how all this gets fixed.
You metal framing is black. Mine is all scraped up.
I wish my deck would have looked like this.😢
Honestly think I would prefer to have the patio you built on top of. With 3 steps down from the door. Much better for grilling a smoker ect.
Hey Matt or anyone else. It mentions on the fortress website that it’s galvanized, is it hot dip or electro plate galvanized? I’ve got to build a deck on a beach and only want to use this if it’s hot dipped. Thanks
Does the steel decking need to be grounded in case of lighting?
You’ll see her again 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
Fortress Steel Deckind and Apex boards is Awesome, But Tanzite Stone Decks just might be better 👍👍
Matt, any experience with that new Owens Corning structural composite lumber, WearDeck?
As someone with experience in structural steel, it amuses me that they chose to go with tube instead of I-beam... I-beam has no hollow space, wouldn't need weep holes, comes in various sizes, including roughly 2x6", and has all the stress capabilities that you'd need for a deck. Tube has more torsional rigidity, but that's not necessary. Maybe tube is cheaper than i-beam? I doubt it though.
If you are going the diy route finding scrap I beam would be easy/cheaper. It would just mean more work with a wire wheel to clean up any rust and then paint it.
thinner wall thickness so could come in cheaper
Check out Clark & Dietrich steel joists. Super strong.very affordable and it will last forever with little maintenance.
I grew up in my father's steel fabrication shop, and I agree with you on I-beams. I am concerned about DIYers and sloppy contractors properly prepping and coating site cut ends a scratches of factory the coating or doing a good prepping and coating if going with bear steel. After all paint ain't what it once was. I still remember when we called primer "Red Lead". It definitely wasn't healthy but it protected the steel far better over time.