I have a similar bike, the Raleigh Randonneur & have been bike touring around Britain on it, it gets a lot of interest, which makes me smile as it was cheap to buy, just needs TLC.
Nice video. The bike turned out great. I have a 12-speed Raleigh Capri I've been riding for 30 years. These English bikes have such a classic look and feel to them. Thank you.
nice frame! im not a huge fan of the mismatched gears and other components but im sure it works great since its all good stuff. it would just continually bother me if it was mine hah
this was very pleasant to watch, very intimate without being overly detailed, just a pure joy. The shot of the bike outside was great too. What camera do you use to shoot that?
Raleigh Classic: I have one. One of the best bikes they ever made. Should have Blackburn alloy racks front and rear. Also the saddle should be Brooks Champion Standard B.17 .
No worries, Bluemels wasn't the factory fit. Raleigh sold the Classic with unbranded half-round, silver plastic guards - same as they fitted to contemporary(±) Royal, Richmond, Westminster, Randonneur models. No shame in fitting the ones you chose. They are good guards. Pretty certain I have the same on one of my bikes, maybe the Claud Butler Majestic.
After checking a few photos, I fitted those guards to my Raleigh Winner ... which is in a buddy's shed in another country. I haven't seen the bike since pre-COVID (2019). Buddy says it's doing fine.
I have a slightly older Raleigh Record Ace (1981) but it's very similar (the rear frame seat stays are scalloped in exactly the same way as your bike). Nice build and particularly like the Stronglight triple chainset (as a teenager I always wanted one) a fine product of St Etienne ☺️. I also envy the Weinnman centre-pulls, when they were new they were considered to be excellent caliper brakes, sadly my Raleigh has Weinnman side pulls, which aren't as nice as your centre-pulls. Lovely Brooks saddle too. Thanks for sharing your build.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! I have done a record ace a wild ago, very nice frame too! You can probably upgrade your brakes, moving from side pull to centre pull will make a massive difference in braking performance :)
I have a Raleigh Royal which is very similar. The centrepull brakes aren't great. They feel flexy. I see that your straddle wire on the front is longer than the one on the rear. My straddle wires are both quite short. Maybe I should try longer ones?
Hey! Centrepull are normally not too hard to setup, I would maybe look into your cable housing or routing? Sometimes if they feel spongy it has more to do with cables than brakes in itself. Sheldon brown website has an article where he explain the correct length for straddle and so on
I like learning and you explaining what ur doing was great. Don't be like most cycle restorers trying high end production and explain nothing. Cookie cutter garbage
I hate to be a fuss pot, but I think the wheel adjusters are in the wring way round. The adjuster should be on the outside to allow for fine tuning the alignment.
@@thebikefelix no worries. Don't know how you do the adjustment, but there you go. Also, there's no way you can get the axle all the way into the dropout, the way you have it. Ideally one side is all the way in and the other is pushed forward ever so slightly.
@@robertdewar1752With semi-horizontal dropout, they are never fully in the slot because of the set screw, which he’s installed perfectly and as it was designed. But that’s what is nice about it, you can position it wherever you want to get the brake reach and handling desired. Also shifts are more accurate the further forward in the dropout.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 Yes, this is my point, you can't use it within the full range of the slot. Also, you can't position it wherever you want as the screw adjuster is on the inside. I've never seen wheel adjusters with the slot adjuster on the inside. The plain "cap" is designed to be just that - plain, so it doesn't foul on the axle, unlike the adjuster slot which does. If you remember bikes sold in the 70's and 80's, the adjuster and spring was always on the outside.
i do not understand the logic behind putting grease on the saddle stem and the handlebars stem, as you do not want them to move and they depend on friction to stay in place... i bet if a 200 pound guy gets on a greased seat post, it will slide down no matter how hard you clamped it...
It’s a common practice to avoid seizing, trust me if you’ve ever had to deal with a stuck Seatpost or stem you would understand. It’s actually a common practise for any mechanical parts that needs to be serviced. The clamping is strong enough to not create friction.
@@thebikefelix i understand that you put the grease there to avoid seizing, thats totally clear. but my experience has been much different. i once had a bike that came with greased handlebar stem an greased bottom bracket axle from the factory. i could not for the life of me ever get the handle bars to stay in place and the cranks came loose that often, to the point they got totally destroyed. from that point on, i never put grease on those parts again. also, the seat post and handlebar stem basically are a "set and forget" thing. ever if they got seized, i never have to touch them again once they got adjusted correctly.
@@miko007 If those parts were greased and didn't hold up they were either incorrectly torqued or not the right ones. A seized seatpost or stem or BB should never be a thing. Even if it is your bike, you want to be able to service it in the future, or if you sell it the future riders might want a different stem or seat height. Also I don't use normal grease i use copper slip grease which is specifically used to avoid seizure, regular grease might act differently
Men’s bikes were poorly designed from the beginning. It seems like that when they designed bikes more attention was given to women with the low sep through so they could wear a dress. Men, on the other hand had to deal with a high top tube. One slip off the pedals and saddle, which happened a lot, and that’s the end of your days for rearing offspring. No attention was given to that, and the sad part, even though many men suffered because of it, they never bothered to make any changes. If you’ve ever slammed your family jewels on the top bar, you know what I mean.
Haha it’s an interesting take on frame design, I think the triangle frame design was just a strength choice! But yes I’ve been there with the family jewels on the top tube 😅
@@ronwhite8503when I said happens a lot, I meant across the board, not to just one person, or in this case me. One can have good riding skills and still have an accident. I would suggest reading my comment again.
I have a similar bike, the Raleigh Randonneur & have been bike touring around Britain on it, it gets a lot of interest, which makes me smile as it was cheap to buy, just needs TLC.
They are amazing bikes, just rides super well and will never break!
Nice work saving this bike!
Thank you! It absolutely deserved to have a proper restoration :)
Nice video. The bike turned out great. I have a 12-speed Raleigh Capri I've been riding for 30 years. These English bikes have such a classic look and feel to them. Thank you.
Thank you! I’m a big fan of Raleigh’s and Peugeot’s they really captured the vibe of their era
Weinmann brakes nearly every sports bike came with them when I started cycling I loved then and still do. Great video thanks 🚴♂️👍
They are on so many bikes indeed, I really like the centre pull version not so much the side pull ones
wonderful bike and video. do not stop
Thank you so much!!
Lovely stuff felix- satisfying watch for sure!
One future tip. Smile! We know you love what you do, so show it! 😊
Thank you! Haha I will try next time! Not easy to speak on front of a camera :)
Very nice. Great looking crank too. Perfectly viable bike still for this century, and the next!
Thank you! Absolutely! I ride a later royale model slightly modernised and I just love it!
nice frame! im not a huge fan of the mismatched gears and other components but im sure it works great since its all good stuff. it would just continually bother me if it was mine hah
Yeah I use to be more classic restoration with all matching component but with time I’m a bit less rigid, it does look nice overall so I’m happy :)
Weizmann centre pull brakes are excellent, probably among the best vintage brakes out there. Great video, thanks, subscribed.
Thank you! They are indeed, same with the MAFAC, centre pull are just so good once setup properly
I had an old Raleigh from this timeline I used to ride daily. It was heavy but plush. Looks great!
Grease is life.
A true biker
Great video.
Thank you!
this was very pleasant to watch, very intimate without being overly detailed, just a pure joy. The shot of the bike outside was great too. What camera do you use to shoot that?
Thank you so much! I shoot eveything on my iPhone 13 Mini :)
beautiful maroon color
Raleigh Classic: I have one. One of the best bikes they ever made. Should have Blackburn alloy racks front and rear. Also the saddle should be Brooks Champion Standard B.17 .
It is a beautiful well made bike! This one came with bluemels mudguards that were sadly broken
No worries, Bluemels wasn't the factory fit. Raleigh sold the Classic with unbranded half-round, silver plastic guards - same as they fitted to contemporary(±) Royal, Richmond, Westminster, Randonneur models. No shame in fitting the ones you chose. They are good guards. Pretty certain I have the same on one of my bikes, maybe the Claud Butler Majestic.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
After checking a few photos, I fitted those guards to my Raleigh Winner ... which is in a buddy's shed in another country. I haven't seen the bike since pre-COVID (2019). Buddy says it's doing fine.
Un très joli vélo Félix, bravo! J'attends avec impatience le prochain!
Merci!!
I have a slightly older Raleigh Record Ace (1981) but it's very similar (the rear frame seat stays are scalloped in exactly the same way as your bike). Nice build and particularly like the Stronglight triple chainset (as a teenager I always wanted one) a fine product of St Etienne ☺️. I also envy the Weinnman centre-pulls, when they were new they were considered to be excellent caliper brakes, sadly my Raleigh has Weinnman side pulls, which aren't as nice as your centre-pulls. Lovely Brooks saddle too.
Thanks for sharing your build.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts! I have done a record ace a wild ago, very nice frame too! You can probably upgrade your brakes, moving from side pull to centre pull will make a massive difference in braking performance :)
Very nice! 🚲❤
Beautiful! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you! 🫶
I have a Raleigh Royal which is very similar. The centrepull brakes aren't great. They feel flexy. I see that your straddle wire on the front is longer than the one on the rear. My straddle wires are both quite short. Maybe I should try longer ones?
Hey! Centrepull are normally not too hard to setup, I would maybe look into your cable housing or routing? Sometimes if they feel spongy it has more to do with cables than brakes in itself. Sheldon brown website has an article where he explain the correct length for straddle and so on
Very nice video, bro! Don't stop ! 😎🇧🇷
Thank you so much! Comments like this drive me to do more :)
nice bike bro !
Thank you! 🤟
Will you put content on regularly please - if so you've got a subscriber .
I plan to yes :)
Lovely stuff
Thank you so much 🫶
Beautiful
Thank you!
I like learning and you explaining what ur doing was great. Don't be like most cycle restorers trying high end production and explain nothing. Cookie cutter garbage
Lovely bike. Which mudguards did you use?
Cheers! I use SKS Chromoplastics :)
I hate to be a fuss pot, but I think the wheel adjusters are in the wring way round. The adjuster should be on the outside to allow for fine tuning the alignment.
I’ve always seen them installed like I did, if you do a quick google search you’ll see most of them are installed that way :)
@@thebikefelix no worries. Don't know how you do the adjustment, but there you go. Also, there's no way you can get the axle all the way into the dropout, the way you have it. Ideally one side is all the way in and the other is pushed forward ever so slightly.
@@robertdewar1752With semi-horizontal dropout, they are never fully in the slot because of the set screw, which he’s installed perfectly and as it was designed. But that’s what is nice about it, you can position it wherever you want to get the brake reach and handling desired. Also shifts are more accurate the further forward in the dropout.
@@allrounderbicycle7193 Yes, this is my point, you can't use it within the full range of the slot. Also, you can't position it wherever you want as the screw adjuster is on the inside. I've never seen wheel adjusters with the slot adjuster on the inside. The plain "cap" is designed to be just that - plain, so it doesn't foul on the axle, unlike the adjuster slot which does. If you remember bikes sold in the 70's and 80's, the adjuster and spring was always on the outside.
Cool af
Thank you 🥲
Clean 👌
1300 views and 70 likes - why ?
Haha I don’t know!
i do not understand the logic behind putting grease on the saddle stem and the handlebars stem, as you do not want them to move and they depend on friction to stay in place...
i bet if a 200 pound guy gets on a greased seat post, it will slide down no matter how hard you clamped it...
It’s a common practice to avoid seizing, trust me if you’ve ever had to deal with a stuck Seatpost or stem you would understand. It’s actually a common practise for any mechanical parts that needs to be serviced. The clamping is strong enough to not create friction.
@@thebikefelix i understand that you put the grease there to avoid seizing, thats totally clear.
but my experience has been much different. i once had a bike that came with greased handlebar stem an greased bottom bracket axle from the factory. i could not for the life of me ever get the handle bars to stay in place and the cranks came loose that often, to the point they got totally destroyed.
from that point on, i never put grease on those parts again.
also, the seat post and handlebar stem basically are a "set and forget" thing. ever if they got seized, i never have to touch them again once they got adjusted correctly.
@@miko007 If those parts were greased and didn't hold up they were either incorrectly torqued or not the right ones. A seized seatpost or stem or BB should never be a thing. Even if it is your bike, you want to be able to service it in the future, or if you sell it the future riders might want a different stem or seat height. Also I don't use normal grease i use copper slip grease which is specifically used to avoid seizure, regular grease might act differently
@@thebikefelix okay copper anti-seize is a completly different story. thanks for the clarification, i could not infer that from the video!
I've been greasing both since the 70's and never had any trouble.
Men’s bikes were poorly designed from the beginning. It seems like that when they designed bikes more attention was given to women with the low sep through so they could wear a dress. Men, on the other hand had to deal with a high top tube. One slip off the pedals and saddle, which happened a lot, and that’s the end of your days for rearing offspring. No attention was given to that, and the sad part, even though many men suffered because of it, they never bothered to make any changes. If you’ve ever slammed your family jewels on the top bar, you know what I mean.
Haha it’s an interesting take on frame design, I think the triangle frame design was just a strength choice! But yes I’ve been there with the family jewels on the top tube 😅
If smashing your crown jewels "happens a lot" I think it says more about your riding skill rather than frame design.
@@ronwhite8503when I said happens a lot, I meant across the board, not to just one person, or in this case me. One can have good riding skills and still have an accident. I would suggest reading my comment again.