Hi Angus, I just wanted to point something out. While I love your videos, I don't think a video like this is something that is going to attract many viewers. Here are a few reasons: 1. It's long it's over 15 minutes and as you know people on RUclips have inevitably short attention spans (like myself) 2. Little to know changes in scene. Related to the one above in that if nothing is really happening visually in the video, it becomes more of a drag (try jump cuts) 3. It's Simplify3D While Simplify3D is good, most users don't have it cause it is expensive and a bit complex. Most users, like myself, might be using Cura and therefore have no reason to watch the video other than to fill a 15 minute void. I myself don't have Simplify3D so I didn't really watch the video in its entirety as it doesn't really apply to me and I think many other people would say the same. These are just some tips that you might want to take into consideration when making a screen grab video next time. I do really love your content, but I feel this one fell a (tiny) bit short... I in no way can say whether or not this video will get a lot of views, because it probably will regardless, but I see it not getting as many as you would probably like... You in no way have to listen to me at all, but I thought I would point these little things out that can really spruce up these kinds of videos... Thank you, Coaster Labs :)
Well it's designed for ppl With S3D so you can use that against the video. If he did one on Cura I wouldn't watch it because I don't use Cura. But I wouldn't say that was a 'problem'. That's the whole topic of the video.
+Montague Flange Valid point, I'm just saying that for the most part most hobbyists don't have a big budget so if there are good slicers for free, it's much more appealing and therefore there is a bigger audience. Not saying no one will watch, just saying there is a smaller audience (much smaller than free slicers) for this type of content... It's the equivalent of him doing a video on how to replace a proprietary fuse on a Tesla. There's an audience for sure, but not the size that there would be for say a Toyota...
Thats amazing , that will allow you to say print the first few layers very hot to stick it down properly Up! style. Cool your print down for small parts at the top of the print , and so on. AWSOME!
Hey Angus! Sound quality has suffered with you moving into the new studio.. You need some sound deadening to reduce echo.. Thanks for the great video!!
Angus, not sure you will even see this. I bought my Creality CR10 S5 last year, had issues with it and finally think I am out of the weeds (finally had time to work on it and get it running correctly).. I am trying to figure out how to create objects.. I know pretty basic or fundamental and all.. but so far mixed results on finding anything about how to actually create files. If you see this, care to make a video on it? I bought Simplify3D and have Cura 2.5 as well. Thanks man, hope you got your hair cut.. let me know I can always bring my machete for a cut if need be. Best regards, Jason Vorhees.
Hi Angus awesome vid as always. What laser cutter is a good budget one to start on and what one do you have. I'm looking at cutting balsa wood and plastics.
Please, how to save the list of process come from "Variable Settings Wizard"? i have 5 process and will to save it! what is the way please? thank you for your time
Hey dear Angus .. I have some issue printing with my ender2 .. it's not printing any circular or cylindrical objects perfectly .. there must be some deformation on it .. most of those type of models printout turned to be more like ellipse .. hope you understood what I am trying to explain here ^_^
Hi, Appreciated would like to ask for your help, i have encountered some issued; what's mean ( The chosen layer and extrusion width settings have resulted in a primary width/ height ratio 1.2.? please ...with many thanks! :) looking forward to your reply.
This is pretty straightforward. The width of an extrusion can't be more than 120% of the layer height. So if your extrusion width is set to .4mm, your height cannot be greater than .48mm. You really shouldn't run into this problem unless you are selecting crazy tall layers or super wide extrusions. Leave the setting for width on auto. If you still get the error, lower the layer height.
I had the same thought while printing a few weeks ago but I couldn't find an option. I had to copy the processes multiple times and set the start/stop on each. It was only about 6 total for me, so it wasn't that bad. This would be a good feature request. Add multiple start/stop entries into a single process.
If I want to print a file off of an SD card will the processes or printer settings be saved with the .STL file or do you have to have your computer hooked directly to the printer for the duration of the entire print? I don't want to be without my laptop while I'm waiting for a 40 hour print but I want to use customized processes or printer settings.
It's a supply demand thing, any niche software is usually fairly expensive (just look at the ticket price on one seat of mastercam) and as Simplify3D is very clear about - their software is there to save you money in the long run. It's pretty hard to justify even $50 for software if you are 3D Printing for fun as a hobby, on one machine at home, but in a School, Business or Work environment even at $500 S3D would literally pay for itself in a few weeks in most cases through the advanced G-code preview alone. It's hard to really appreciate the difference unless you've been under the pump with clients screaming at you because Cura / Slic3r / whatever decided to glitch one area of the model they came to collect in the morning. :P
Setting top/bottom fill layers to zero means you have make sure there aren't any actual top/bottom layers that you want to have printed. For example, a stair case will have a top fill at the top of each step. So for some models, you can't use this technique to control the infill unless you are OK with having solid layers within the infill. Bummer... Pausing a print between processes is also tricky and requires tweaking the start/end gcodes. I spent a bit of time trying it and still ended up just slicing two gcode files for the print (manually changing filament). For my 2-material makercoins though, I just cut the filament while the print is within the layers where I want the materials to change and feed the new filament without pausing the print. Less hassle than messing with two gcode files and doing a proper filament change. I use a combination of black/white color change and black filament.
Oh good! :) Even if I am new to 3d printing I am not afraid of a little assebly. will wait for the video. Maybe a comparison with wanhao duplicator i3?
soo if our printer isnt on the list and we try a default setup. what kinds of test prints should we perform to figure out if anything needs tweaking further? or should we try and diagnose problems later as they arise
Hi! Thank you for this tutorial, simplify3d should pay to you for thes =) Please make more cool videos about siy3d! BTW. If you want to try few Russian fillament (like full Rubber, from Russian company REC) I can send it to you.
looking forward to finding out your plan for the mini kuka articulated arm robot in the background :D great content as always Angus, I always learn something new!
Looks like I got it completely wrong ;) (I'm new to 3D printing) I tough that processes are receipt for each type of filament (and your fine tuning) Am I wrong that each filament need different settings (temp is obvious, but also retraction/coating) A far as I understood retraction/coating is not dependend on the printer (i have the trinus) but also on the filament? If so, what would be the best way to keep tracking of my settings when I switch filament? Or am I completely wrong? ;)
Hi Angus, I have recently started watching your videos and found your content really helpful. Since I am working on a master thesis, I wanted to ask you whether it is possible to slice an STL/AMF/3MF file and generate G code or X3G file for other additive processes such as stereolithography? Does Simplify3D support it? If yes, how can it be done? If not, could you tell me of a slicer that does it (apart from PreForm)? As of now, all the slicers I have come across online seem to be supporting FDM/FFF only, and I am trying to figure out exactly how a meshed model is digitally communicated to any 3D printer. I could really use your help on this one.
Nice vid Angus!! I remember a few videos back you said you're going to bring some different type of content to your channel besides 3D-Printing, is that still a thing or am I out of the loop?
Cheers! Yep there's going to be more robotics, laser cutting... design and all kinds of things, just got a glut of 3D Printing Reviews to get through first.
Hi Angus awesome vid as always. What laser cutter is a good budget one to start on and what one do you have. I'm looking at cutting balsa wood and plastics.
+Maker's Muse I was kinda curious about that orange thing behind you in the last two videos... I guess it is far more accurate, versatile and expensive than any printers you have around. Looking forward to see what are you going to do with it.
Hi Angus, great job with the channel. I value your content and information. What do you know about the benefits of CAD specific graphics cards? Does software like meshmixer, or 123D design benefit from the addition of one of these cards when compared to a gaming graphics card like a gtx 660m?
I just found "ULIO" in indiegogo. It is a simple 3d printer that is 80% 3d printed. (excluding the electronics, the extruder,the fans, etc) The idea is that with only one printer that you already have, you can create a few others. The proyect focuses on schools (and makerspaces) that do not have a lot of momey to buy a bunch of 3d printers. What do you think? I think that the idea is a good one, but there are just too many variables. I am skeptical.
Angus ... Do you have any pull with Simplify 3D I want a series of boxes for JERK settings and acceleration. Seems I must go into the firmware or gcode to do that in this program (according to the email I got 10 minutes ago), It is very disappointing that S3D can't do this and CURA can .... Maybe version 4.5 will have it ? PS: You and Tom are my go to guys on 3D printing ;- )
Awesome timing Angus. I just bought a new Original Prusa i3 mk2 and S3D. After some failures I've started to get the settings right in S3D for my printer and quite liking it. I think S3D will become my goto slicer.
Hi Angus, big fan of the Channel, learn alot from you! Love your 'real world' approach and that you don't shy awat from pointing out negatives 😉 I bought simplify3d based on your recommendations, would it be possible to share your fff's for the original prusa i3 mk2?
Hi Angus, I didn's read all the comments, so maybe someone mentioned it already. But there is a wizard for this. In tools > variable settings wizard. So you don't have to do all the manual adjustments. Love your channel. Learned a lot of it.
Really nice and thorough video. I love to see examples of some of the less common features of Simplify3D. For your future list, I'd love to see some examples of the different coasting and wiping settings, and how different filament may be impacted by them. I appreciate that you take the time to give a detailed review of these features. I can get a 5 minute overview anywhere. I appreciate having a place to go to see more depth.
This is extremely helpful. I just bought the program and I'm already impressed with how much better it is than the one that "came with" my printer. (It's actually just a download link in the instructions for ReplicatorG.)
Great vid as always Angus, Even though I've been using S3D for some time now, I always pick up something new from your vids. Sure, as others have said, you audio has more echo, but it's just fine tuning that will come with time ... not unlike setting up a printer :-)
Hey Angus. I picked up an msi gaming computer to run simplify 3d and blender etc. I loaded an stl in simplify 3d selected the item and simplify 3d crashed and has crashed repeatedly. Any ideas.
Good point! Firmware config probably needs an entire video in itself and I'll be honest, none of the machines I use have ever needed tweaking there but if it was flashforge, makerbot or something unusual it would need the 'flavour' changed and maybe some other tweaks.
+Maker's Muse been printing for awhile and my z layer looked really good I print on repitir with cura slicer but now it has much more lines and is more defined I just re leveled
+the gaming avengers pictures would help, upload on imgur and post the link. More defined sounds good, not bad, more context! Hint: Context is a good thing, especially when troubleshooting!
My experience ? : Its a crappy and very expensive software! If you try to slice a bit more complex model it crashes even on a i5 processor and 16GB of RAM resulting of Out of Memory error message! The tech support is not even able to help you and its hard to get money back within the promised time... I regret to have purchased it!
I see you have been pre-making videos ahead of time, man I wish I could do that... Nice video! Congrats 30k!
Thanks Angus exactly what I've been looking for, a clean simple way of increasing the infill as I reach the top of my models.
Hi Angus,
I just wanted to point something out. While I love your videos, I don't think a video like this is something that is going to attract many viewers. Here are a few reasons:
1. It's long
it's over 15 minutes and as you know people on RUclips have inevitably short attention spans (like myself)
2. Little to know changes in scene.
Related to the one above in that if nothing is really happening visually in the video, it becomes more of a drag (try jump cuts)
3. It's Simplify3D
While Simplify3D is good, most users don't have it cause it is expensive and a bit complex. Most users, like myself, might be using Cura and therefore have no reason to watch the video other than to fill a 15 minute void. I myself don't have Simplify3D so I didn't really watch the video in its entirety as it doesn't really apply to me and I think many other people would say the same.
These are just some tips that you might want to take into consideration when making a screen grab video next time. I do really love your content, but I feel this one fell a (tiny) bit short... I in no way can say whether or not this video will get a lot of views, because it probably will regardless, but I see it not getting as many as you would probably like... You in no way have to listen to me at all, but I thought I would point these little things out that can really spruce up these kinds of videos...
Thank you,
Coaster Labs
:)
Well it's designed for ppl With S3D so you can use that against the video. If he did one on Cura I wouldn't watch it because I don't use Cura. But I wouldn't say that was a 'problem'. That's the whole topic of the video.
+Montague Flange Valid point, I'm just saying that for the most part most hobbyists don't have a big budget so if there are good slicers for free, it's much more appealing and therefore there is a bigger audience. Not saying no one will watch, just saying there is a smaller audience (much smaller than free slicers) for this type of content... It's the equivalent of him doing a video on how to replace a proprietary fuse on a Tesla. There's an audience for sure, but not the size that there would be for say a Toyota...
Thats amazing , that will allow you to say print the first few layers very hot to stick it down properly Up! style. Cool your print down for small parts at the top of the print , and so on. AWSOME!
You can specify multiple temps by layer within the same process already. No need to create additional processes.
Hey Angus! Sound quality has suffered with you moving into the new studio.. You need some sound deadening to reduce echo.. Thanks for the great video!!
Cheers! Yes I know the reverb is nasty as - I have sound foam on its way but will try and limit filming in the new space till it arrives.
If you have some nails or such on the wall, just hang towels directly behind the camera. Works better than sound proofing foam..
I think he's in a university or something so they may froun uphon him hanging towls on the wall lol.
foam or a deadcat may work
agree , a few layers of towels are superior to even expensive professional foam.
great! more simplify3d stuff! :D
Angus, not sure you will even see this. I bought my Creality CR10 S5 last year, had issues with it and finally think I am out of the weeds (finally had time to work on it and get it running correctly).. I am trying to figure out how to create objects.. I know pretty basic or fundamental and all.. but so far mixed results on finding anything about how to actually create files. If you see this, care to make a video on it? I bought Simplify3D and have Cura 2.5 as well.
Thanks man, hope you got your hair cut.. let me know I can always bring my machete for a cut if need be.
Best regards,
Jason Vorhees.
Hi Angus awesome vid as always. What laser cutter is a good budget one to start on and what one do you have. I'm looking at cutting balsa wood and plastics.
Quick question. Which do you feel would contribute most to warping, a dense infill at the bottom of a print or a sparse infill.
Dense - more plastic means more shrinkage as a rule.
Thank you. Keep up the good work.
In there a Simplifyed 3d ff propfile for the Sovol SV08 printer? I have the latest version and it is not listed.
Please, how to save the list of process come from "Variable Settings Wizard"? i have 5 process and will to save it! what is the way please? thank you for your time
Hey dear Angus .. I have some issue printing with my ender2 .. it's not printing any circular or cylindrical objects perfectly .. there must be some deformation on it .. most of those type of models printout turned to be more like ellipse .. hope you understood what I am trying to explain here ^_^
Angus Do you have a profile for the FlashForge Finder and/or the Guider II I could have?
Hi, Appreciated would like to ask for your help, i have encountered some issued; what's mean ( The chosen layer and extrusion width settings have resulted in a primary width/ height ratio 1.2.? please ...with many thanks! :)
looking forward to your reply.
This is pretty straightforward. The width of an extrusion can't be more than 120% of the layer height. So if your extrusion width is set to .4mm, your height cannot be greater than .48mm. You really shouldn't run into this problem unless you are selecting crazy tall layers or super wide extrusions. Leave the setting for width on auto. If you still get the error, lower the layer height.
Can you selectively include a process at different layer height intervals? Or would you just have to create multiple duplicate processes?
I had the same thought while printing a few weeks ago but I couldn't find an option. I had to copy the processes multiple times and set the start/stop on each. It was only about 6 total for me, so it wasn't that bad. This would be a good feature request. Add multiple start/stop entries into a single process.
If I want to print a file off of an SD card will the processes or printer settings be saved with the .STL file or do you have to have your computer hooked directly to the printer for the duration of the entire print?
I don't want to be without my laptop while I'm waiting for a 40 hour print but I want to use customized processes or printer settings.
your exported g code will include everything you set, including if you used multiple processes.
It's still beyond me why they charge $150, I'm sure they would make more money at $50-75 a copy.
It's a supply demand thing, any niche software is usually fairly expensive (just look at the ticket price on one seat of mastercam) and as Simplify3D is very clear about - their software is there to save you money in the long run. It's pretty hard to justify even $50 for software if you are 3D Printing for fun as a hobby, on one machine at home, but in a School, Business or Work environment even at $500 S3D would literally pay for itself in a few weeks in most cases through the advanced G-code preview alone. It's hard to really appreciate the difference unless you've been under the pump with clients screaming at you because Cura / Slic3r / whatever decided to glitch one area of the model they came to collect in the morning. :P
Setting top/bottom fill layers to zero means you have make sure there aren't any actual top/bottom layers that you want to have printed. For example, a stair case will have a top fill at the top of each step. So for some models, you can't use this technique to control the infill unless you are OK with having solid layers within the infill. Bummer...
Pausing a print between processes is also tricky and requires tweaking the start/end gcodes. I spent a bit of time trying it and still ended up just slicing two gcode files for the print (manually changing filament). For my 2-material makercoins though, I just cut the filament while the print is within the layers where I want the materials to change and feed the new filament without pausing the print. Less hassle than messing with two gcode files and doing a proper filament change. I use a combination of black/white color change and black filament.
Thanks Angus!! I am learning a lot from you thanks! do you have an opinion on the Tevo Tarantula and black widow 3d printer?
I will have a video on the Tarantula soon, but haven't tried the black widow. Both are great if you know how to put them together.
Oh good! :) Even if I am new to 3d printing I am not afraid of a little assebly. will wait for the video. Maybe a comparison with wanhao duplicator i3?
soo if our printer isnt on the list and we try a default setup. what kinds of test prints should we perform to figure out if anything needs tweaking further? or should we try and diagnose problems later as they arise
I perform stuff like a standard 20mm cube to dial in my machines - then more complex things to help determine retractions and that kind of thing.
Hi!
Thank you for this tutorial, simplify3d should pay to you for thes =)
Please make more cool videos about siy3d!
BTW. If you want to try few Russian fillament (like full Rubber, from Russian company REC) I can send it to you.
looking forward to finding out your plan for the mini kuka articulated arm robot in the background :D great content as always Angus, I always learn something new!
Enjoyed the video very much. As far as I am concerned it could have been three times longer. I enjoy learning.
Looks like I got it completely wrong ;) (I'm new to 3D printing)
I tough that processes are receipt for each type of filament (and your fine tuning)
Am I wrong that each filament need different settings (temp is obvious, but also retraction/coating) A far as I understood retraction/coating is not dependend on the printer (i have the trinus) but also on the filament?
If so, what would be the best way to keep tracking of my settings when I switch filament?
Or am I completely wrong? ;)
Hi Angus, I have recently started watching your videos and found your content really helpful. Since I am working on a master thesis, I wanted to ask you whether it is possible to slice an STL/AMF/3MF file and generate G code or X3G file for other additive processes such as stereolithography? Does Simplify3D support it? If yes, how can it be done? If not, could you tell me of a slicer that does it (apart from PreForm)? As of now, all the slicers I have come across online seem to be supporting FDM/FFF only, and I am trying to figure out exactly how a meshed model is digitally communicated to any 3D printer. I could really use your help on this one.
Nice vid Angus!! I remember a few videos back you said you're going to bring some different type of content to your channel besides 3D-Printing, is that still a thing or am I out of the loop?
Cheers! Yep there's going to be more robotics, laser cutting... design and all kinds of things, just got a glut of 3D Printing Reviews to get through first.
Got me drooling already! Can't wait, keep up the good work man. Cheers from Canada
Hi Angus awesome vid as always. What laser cutter is a good budget one to start on and what one do you have. I'm looking at cutting balsa wood and plastics.
+Maker's Muse I was kinda curious about that orange thing behind you in the last two videos... I guess it is far more accurate, versatile and expensive than any printers you have around. Looking forward to see what are you going to do with it.
Hi Angus, great job with the channel. I value your content and information. What do you know about the benefits of CAD specific graphics cards? Does software like meshmixer, or 123D design benefit from the addition of one of these cards when compared to a gaming graphics card like a gtx 660m?
I just found "ULIO" in indiegogo. It is a simple 3d printer that is 80% 3d printed.
(excluding the electronics, the extruder,the fans, etc)
The idea is that with only one printer that you already have, you can create a few others. The proyect focuses on schools (and makerspaces) that do not have a lot of momey to buy a bunch of 3d printers.
What do you think? I think that the idea is a good one, but there are just too many variables. I am skeptical.
Hey, what's that KUKA robot doing there? will it be featured in one of your upcoming vids? has it been featured already?
Angus ... Do you have any pull with Simplify 3D I want a series of boxes for JERK settings and acceleration. Seems I must go into the firmware or gcode to do that in this program (according to the email I got 10 minutes ago), It is very disappointing that S3D can't do this and CURA can .... Maybe version 4.5 will have it ?
PS: You and Tom are my go to guys on 3D printing ;- )
Awesome timing Angus. I just bought a new Original Prusa i3 mk2 and S3D. After some failures I've started to get the settings right in S3D for my printer and quite liking it. I think S3D will become my goto slicer.
Hi Angus, big fan of the Channel, learn alot from you! Love your 'real world' approach and that you don't shy awat from pointing out negatives 😉
I bought simplify3d based on your recommendations, would it be possible to share your fff's for the original prusa i3 mk2?
Hi. In S3D 4 now that's all included in the tools menu.
Hi Angus, I didn's read all the comments, so maybe someone mentioned it already. But there is a wizard for this. In tools > variable settings wizard. So you don't have to do all the manual adjustments. Love your channel. Learned a lot of it.
Having trouble printing flat surface areas within an object, that is not the topmost layers of the print ... any suggestions?
Really nice and thorough video. I love to see examples of some of the less common features of Simplify3D. For your future list, I'd love to see some examples of the different coasting and wiping settings, and how different filament may be impacted by them. I appreciate that you take the time to give a detailed review of these features. I can get a 5 minute overview anywhere. I appreciate having a place to go to see more depth.
This is extremely helpful. I just bought the program and I'm already impressed with how much better it is than the one that "came with" my printer. (It's actually just a download link in the instructions for ReplicatorG.)
where'd you get the KUKA robot. do you have any videos about it?
Thanks for great video. I had to use Other for my Robobeast and Simplify3D works well with the Robobeast. Love it
Wow! You got a bad echo in the volume at the beginning.
Does anyone know how I can change the z axis to move out of the way instead of sticking to my print?
You also save filament that is why i use it. Now the program wont print top layer inside the model so you dont have to worry about that.
Great vid as always Angus, Even though I've been using S3D for some time now, I always pick up something new from your vids.
Sure, as others have said, you audio has more echo, but it's just fine tuning that will come with time ... not unlike setting up a printer :-)
Why mm/min? Why you not enabling mm/s speeds?
It's just a preference thing, you can change it under options.
robot arm?
haha I see you on their home page so if I buy a key do they give you a few cents? lol
Why don't you use Cura?
I thought your name is "I Dont Care" I'm just messing with you but Cura just can't do this complex of a process.
simplify 3d is too expensive
Excellent process video! This helps a lot.
idk if i am but am i first? ;)
Hey Angus. I picked up an msi gaming computer to run simplify 3d and blender etc. I loaded an stl in simplify 3d selected the item and simplify 3d crashed and has crashed repeatedly. Any ideas.
I'd email them, their response time is really fast and they might have an idea. Sounds like a very weird issue.
wow I'm early
You didn't cover Firmware settings in the Custom Profile.
Good point! Firmware config probably needs an entire video in itself and I'll be honest, none of the machines I use have ever needed tweaking there but if it was flashforge, makerbot or something unusual it would need the 'flavour' changed and maybe some other tweaks.
help my z layers look like crap
Need more info!
+Maker's Muse been printing for awhile and my z layer looked really good I print on repitir with cura slicer but now it has much more lines and is more defined I just re leveled
+the gaming avengers pictures would help, upload on imgur and post the link. More defined sounds good, not bad, more context!
Hint: Context is a good thing, especially when troubleshooting!
My experience ? : Its a crappy and very expensive software! If you try to slice a bit more complex model it crashes even on a i5 processor and 16GB of RAM resulting of Out of Memory error message! The tech support is not even able to help you and its hard to get money back within the promised time... I regret to have purchased it!