Yea the troublesome 2.2 tranny when they knock garage will say it needs a injector yet the Ford stealer ships know they over fuel and cause damage in the piston So it's obvious that software could probably cure this
My 3.2 recenly started a wiseling sound. Starts from about 1200 rpm to about 2000 rpm. Checked ever hose, clamp, seal, from airfilter to turbo, to intercooler to throttle body. Cant find the problem. Doesn't effect performance or fuel consumption. Just very anoying. 😊😊😊
Hello boss ihave problem with 2016 audi a1 fualtcode c104b29 and u101700 when I try to do clear fualtcode is gone but ican drive little that fualtcode is come back and ican check abs sensors data is fine there is no problem and no abs light only that small sliding light is on and massage on cluster stabilization control (ESC) fault see owner's manual and ican check the battery voltage ignition on 12.25 and when engine is on voltage 12.93 tell me boss about this voltage is perfect or not car also dsg gearbox
The battery needs to be replaced. AGM batteries only last around 4 or 5 years then drive the car for 10 or 20 miles . The fault might then go away. I have had this issue before 🤞🤞🤞👍
my 3.2 had also popped the EGR cooler and ran hot for a few minutes, it now ticks when cold for a few minutes to goes quiet, I have driven 40 000km like that putting it down to a tappet noise. I often tow a 3 ton boat with mine and so far so good. but now you got me a little worried
I could have but I didn’t think it was going to be pistons being damaged to start & secondly my job was to do the repair, no matter what I found so engine removal was necessary anyway.
i'm going to say cracked piston , no catch can , running engine while low on coolant , engine oil over due for change ' not looked after very well at all
Correct on 1 of the points, egr cooler was leaking & it did get hot when low on coolant 😬😬 It was bought at an auction so the history on oil changing was unavailable 😉👍👍
fair play to you peter taken on big jobs like that i think most garages wouldent even look at a job like that. cant wait to see her up and running again my heart goes out to the person who bought it he got stung
Hardly need to scan tool to know what it is on your new of those engines. Anyone owning one I'd recommend pulling the sump off and oil pump, and replacing it with one from the earlier Euro 4 transit engine (same block minus one cylinder) . Pre 2011 these engines were fitted with a gear pump that was decent enough and very rarely failed. Post 2011 or euro 5 they were fitted with a vane type pump that would start to disintegrate once it had some wear on it. Luckily they are both the same externally so the older style pump will bolt up. The only difference is a small feed pipe on the vane pump whose port has to be blocked off using a bolt. Do the swap ASAP, if your Ranger has more than 80k on it there's a good chance your pump can go at anytime.
@kennedysgarage3281 it is definitely the inline pump I've been under the truck when it was doing it...thing is its stopped now and engine management light is on...no difference in running its going fine...I've got hold of a second hand pump so I'll let you know....
just a question, i have the same issue with my ranger and people keep calling it a jeep like you in this video which confuses me because its a ford if you know what i mean
In Ireland & possibly the UK we call all 4x4’s Jeep’s. I guess it is due to Jeep’s be around the 1st to build 4x4’s. There is a vacuum cleaner brand over here too called Hoover & every vacuum cleaner is now called a hoover. They say it is the best branding a company can get to use there name over the actual product or action 🙃🙃
During World War One, American and European Governments purchased vast quantities Utility Vehicles from various manufacturers. These vehicles were often built as robust off road cars/vans/pick-ups. These vehicles were categorised as General Purpose - and often referred to as GPs - ‘jeeps’. The term ‘jeep’ is now lusual throughout many parts of the World and has been in common parlance for over a hundred years. It has nothing to do with the Company ‘Jeep’ which was formed by Wilys-Overland in 1943. Call it what you like, it doesn’t really matter.
My ford ranger 2.2 Spacecab had overheating issues, so I fixed everything. I eventually started the vehicle. While the vehicle was staring my mechanic went and opening the fuel nut to see if there was fuel flowing into the engine, he removed each nut from the first injector nozzle to and close it when there was fuel shooting out but once he reached the third nut from the third injector, the engine starting giving off a knocking sound. So, when we tried to start it again it started but the knocking sound came on again and then the engine went off. I checked the Fuel chord to see if the fuel was affected so while bleeding it there was a lot of bubbles in the diesel fuel. So, now when I start the vehicle, it just cranks, with the knocking sound but can not start and there is still bubbles in the fuel. Can anyone please help me on how I can solve this issue. Thanks. Ford Ranger 2.2 spacecab diesel Manual transmission
The best & fastest advice I can give is to tow start it. This will overcome any fuel related issues after a few hundred yards. Once it is up and running then you can try to figure out where the noise is coming from, watch the oil light in the cluster, the are known for the oil pump failing🤞🤞👍 Let me know how you get on
@@kennedysgarage3281 We found the fault. Actually it was not a fuel issue, we opened the cam chamber (where the cam shafts are) and saw that all the rudder wheels are all broken also the right side cam shaft was a bit bent. Also the top head camshaft chamber side was cracked. I just bought a new rudder wheel and a new right hand cam and installed the housing and everything and tried manually spinning the engine but it couldn't spin freely. Do you think there is an underlining fault inside the engine head the engine head itself?
@@mozo_kozo I’m so sorry that it went wrong like that mate 😔😔 Keep going anyway & you will get the better of it 🤞🤞 Unfortunately you will need to disassemble the replaced parts & refit step by step trying to pinpoint the part that is sticking. The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 actually not the fuel problem ahah it's just due to the push rod damage. The push rod wheels came off and bumped the spinning cam then it broke the cam cage. So, I ended up buying a second hand cam cage, a new intake cam, and also brought the cylinder head to a machine shop and they did oil clearance on the cylinder and also the cam cage now both cam shafts are spinning well when fitted. So, fingers crossed when I install everything back on, the car runs again. Such a costly exercise.
Did you need to replace the EGR heat exchanger? Would you recommend a full Stainless steel unit? Also, is it possible to get forged pistions so this doesn't happen again?
I did replace the EGR heat exchanger/cooler. Apologies it though I showed that. The one I got from the dealer is stainless steel from original. The cause of this problem was the engine heat seized from lack of coolant, would any type of piston stand up to this kind of heat 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 A failed Heat exchanger would cause this sort of problem no matter what the engine was made from. I'm now thinking that the heat exchanger could be made to be more reliable and save the engine from this sort of issue.
@@fourbypete absolutely correct, but I believe that they are manufacturing parts with a life span nowadays. They want parts to fail after 5 or 6 years 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Great video Peter full of valuable information very much looking forward to the second cartoon on this one. Made me chuckle when you said I’m in a mess with another Mazda 😂
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi, I have the same SCBS warning too on my 2017 Mazda 6 with 20K miles, Mazda dealer couldn't find the fault until it then came on with EML with code P0101, now they tell me needs a carbon clean ! Bought some JLM Diesel Ultimate clean, 1L in the fuel tank clean, do you think it could help at least get rid of the fault, then the cars going, seems it's gonna be nothing but trouble. Thanks for any advice.
@@markdamms5287 unfortunately mark the only way to fix the carbon buildup is to remove the intake manifold & clean both the ports & manifold. It actually sounds like a very good car with very low mileage, just spend a few hundred quid & get it sorted. Then drive it for a few years 🤔🤔
@Kennedy’s garage cheers, I hear what you say, but if it's clogged up after only 20k miles, then how long before it's clogged again. Only had it 15 months, had 16k on when I bought it from a dealer (cars without the faf !!) with warranty, SCBS problems started within days, so in warranty, but because Mazda have failed for so long to diagnose it, they're saying its top long now, so declined the repair !!! Ombudsman have taken it up. Hopefully, they'll come down on my side 🙏
@@markdamms5287 small miles would possibly mean a lot of idling in traffic that could cause quite a bit of carbon. It is definitely worth a look anyway due to the manifold being easy enough to remove & fingers crossed it will be covered 🤞🤞🤞
We got 13 cdti combo in chain ratting head off got bottom end nock customer not bother about that just dosent start up he had one bad leak injector done nah need other 600 pound at knackered engine
Ouch, not a cheap 5 minute fix 🤦♂️ reminding me of the 2.2 transits with piston issues. Looking forward to the next cartoon 👍
Yea the troublesome 2.2 tranny when they knock garage will say it needs a injector yet the Ford stealer ships know they over fuel and cause damage in the piston
So it's obvious that software could probably cure this
2 more cartoons to follow & oooh does this one fight me 🍻🍻
@@kennedysgarage3281 haha you need to get on the fone to Ed China haha
@@gavfreeman8797 Ed is the man 🤞🤞👍
"tree"
Four 🙂
The problem is contained between the badge on the front and the one on the back, the whole thing is a major problem, a bucket of pus.
Ooohh, harsh but quite possibly true 😬😬😬
Seriously. What car have you ever designed?? Stfu and do something useful
❤️❤️❤️🔧👌👌
My 3.2 recenly started a wiseling sound. Starts from about 1200 rpm to about 2000 rpm. Checked ever hose, clamp, seal, from airfilter to turbo, to intercooler to throttle body. Cant find the problem. Doesn't effect performance or fuel consumption. Just very anoying. 😊😊😊
It is most possibly the turbo worn & is definitely worth looking at 👍👍
Hello boss ihave problem with 2016 audi a1 fualtcode c104b29 and u101700 when I try to do clear fualtcode is gone but ican drive little that fualtcode is come back and ican check abs sensors data is fine there is no problem and no abs light only that small sliding light is on and massage on cluster stabilization control (ESC) fault see owner's manual and ican check the battery voltage ignition on 12.25 and when engine is on voltage 12.93 tell me boss about this voltage is perfect or not car also dsg gearbox
The battery needs to be replaced. AGM batteries only last around 4 or 5 years then drive the car for 10 or 20 miles . The fault might then go away. I have had this issue before 🤞🤞🤞👍
my 3.2 had also popped the EGR cooler and ran hot for a few minutes, it now ticks when cold for a few minutes to goes quiet, I have driven 40 000km like that putting it down to a tappet noise. I often tow a 3 ton boat with mine and so far so good. but now you got me a little worried
Keep going , while it’s going Simon. It is a 6k repair 😬😬😬
Couldnt u go down with camera through injector holes without pulling motor out and apart??
I could have but I didn’t think it was going to be pistons being damaged to start & secondly my job was to do the repair, no matter what I found so engine removal was necessary anyway.
i'm going to say cracked piston , no catch can , running engine while low on coolant , engine oil over due for change ' not looked after very well at all
Correct on 1 of the points, egr cooler was leaking & it did get hot when low on coolant 😬😬
It was bought at an auction so the history on oil changing was unavailable 😉👍👍
Are the hydraulic lifters there suppose to be self bleeding or does one needs to bleed it himself if they don’t pump
As in the hydraulic lifters underneath the camshaft’s??
If so yes, they get flooded with oil pressure very fast once the engine is cranking 😉👍👍👍
fair play to you peter taken on big jobs like that i think most garages wouldent even look at a job like that. cant wait to see her up and running again my heart goes out to the person who bought it he got stung
He actually knew about the noise & bought it anyway, but very cheap 😬👍👍👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 good luck it's kinda risky buying cars like that something else could pop up
@@wackey3455 and it does 😬😬
@@kennedysgarage3281 good luck with it peter
@@wackey3455 I didn’t have any luck on this one, make sure to watch part 3 when up loaded. If nothing else you’ll be glad that you aren’t me 😂😂😂👍
Hardly need to scan tool to know what it is on your new of those engines. Anyone owning one I'd recommend pulling the sump off and oil pump, and replacing it with one from the earlier Euro 4 transit engine (same block minus one cylinder) . Pre 2011 these engines were fitted with a gear pump that was decent enough and very rarely failed. Post 2011 or euro 5 they were fitted with a vane type pump that would start to disintegrate once it had some wear on it. Luckily they are both the same externally so the older style pump will bolt up. The only difference is a small feed pipe on the vane pump whose port has to be blocked off using a bolt. Do the swap ASAP, if your Ranger has more than 80k on it there's a good chance your pump can go at anytime.
@@Altair885 that is great information, thanks mate 🙏🙏
@@kennedysgarage3281 No worries 😉
Where the hell am I going to find one of those foreign type engines to get that pump off?
I’ve had the exact same issue what was the cost to fix thank you
Expensive, around 8k 😬😬😬
Great video,, so sorry for the owners, ffs, an expensive learning experience
Just wait until you see part 2 & 3 😬😬😬
Scary sounding
@@DaveGreeneramblingcarpenter that sound get worse 😬😬😬
I've a 3.2 ranger developed a ticking noise thought it was an injector turned out to be the inline fuel pump still ford wants 468 quid....rip off..
It will be interesting to see if that stops the ticking 🤞🤞
@kennedysgarage3281 it is definitely the inline pump I've been under the truck when it was doing it...thing is its stopped now and engine management light is on...no difference in running its going fine...I've got hold of a second hand pump so I'll let you know....
@@njkip good man & the best of luck with it 🤞🤞
A very informative film. Thanks for the effort to educate people with similar problems with Ford rangers.
I’m glad you liked it Chris, this one thought me quite a few lessons too. Every day is a school day 😬😬
When you rev it up, is the sound going up? Thanks
The noise frequency increases with the engine rpms. The engine gets hot due to the egr cooler failing. Not a great system 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Are you Chef Gordon Ramsay?
No unfortunately, he has more money than me 😂😂😂
I love these Cartoons, so much great information. Feel bad for the owner, but has the top man looking after him now👍
I don’t know John, that has yet to be proven 😬😬
No point going on its pisting
@@sandyreid2412 we replace pistons in part 2. But it does take a turn for the worst by the end of the video 😬😬
Hurry up lol can't wait to watch the part 2=lol cheers 🍻
This wagon is actually still in the workshop & it has evolved into a 3 part 😬😬😬
just a question, i have the same issue with my ranger and people keep calling it a jeep like you in this video which confuses me because its a ford if you know what i mean
In Ireland & possibly the UK we call all 4x4’s Jeep’s. I guess it is due to Jeep’s be around the 1st to build 4x4’s.
There is a vacuum cleaner brand over here too called Hoover & every vacuum cleaner is now called a hoover. They say it is the best branding a company can get to use there name over the actual product or action 🙃🙃
@@kennedysgarage3281 ahh i see, that’s makes sense now tbh. Thanks!
During World War One, American and European Governments purchased vast quantities Utility Vehicles from various manufacturers. These vehicles were often built as robust off road cars/vans/pick-ups. These vehicles were categorised as General Purpose - and often referred to as GPs - ‘jeeps’.
The term ‘jeep’ is now lusual throughout many parts of the World and has been in common parlance for over a hundred years. It has nothing to do with the Company ‘Jeep’ which was formed by Wilys-Overland in 1943.
Call it what you like, it doesn’t really matter.
@@peterjsheehy 😂😂😂😂 that is a really wise response. Well done mate 💪💪💪
My ford ranger 2.2 Spacecab had overheating issues, so I fixed everything.
I eventually started the vehicle.
While the vehicle was staring my mechanic went and opening the fuel nut to see if there was fuel flowing into the engine, he removed each nut from the first injector nozzle to and close it when there was fuel shooting out but once he reached the third nut from the third injector, the engine starting giving off a knocking sound. So, when we tried to start it again it started but the knocking sound came on again and then the engine went off.
I checked the Fuel chord to see if the fuel was affected so while bleeding it there was a lot of bubbles in the diesel fuel.
So, now when I start the vehicle, it just cranks, with the knocking sound but can not start and there is still bubbles in the fuel.
Can anyone please help me on how I can solve this issue.
Thanks.
Ford Ranger 2.2 spacecab diesel Manual transmission
The best & fastest advice I can give is to tow start it. This will overcome any fuel related issues after a few hundred yards. Once it is up and running then you can try to figure out where the noise is coming from, watch the oil light in the cluster, the are known for the oil pump failing🤞🤞👍
Let me know how you get on
@@kennedysgarage3281 We found the fault.
Actually it was not a fuel issue, we opened the cam chamber (where the cam shafts are) and saw that all the rudder wheels are all broken also the right side cam shaft was a bit bent. Also the top head camshaft chamber side was cracked.
I just bought a new rudder wheel and a new right hand cam and installed the housing and everything and tried manually spinning the engine but it couldn't spin freely.
Do you think there is an underlining fault inside the engine head the engine head itself?
Also some of the glow plugs were affected by short circuit when all that happened. I found out through a scanning machine.
@@mozo_kozo I’m so sorry that it went wrong like that mate 😔😔
Keep going anyway & you will get the better of it 🤞🤞
Unfortunately you will need to disassemble the replaced parts & refit step by step trying to pinpoint the part that is sticking. The very best of luck with it 🤞🤞
@@kennedysgarage3281 actually not the fuel problem ahah it's just due to the push rod damage. The push rod wheels came off and bumped the spinning cam then it broke the cam cage. So, I ended up buying a second hand cam cage, a new intake cam, and also brought the cylinder head to a machine shop and they did oil clearance on the cylinder and also the cam cage now both cam shafts are spinning well when fitted.
So, fingers crossed when I install everything back on, the car runs again.
Such a costly exercise.
well done fellows x
This one was a challenge but thanks mate 🙏🙏
Did you need to replace the EGR heat exchanger? Would you recommend a full Stainless steel unit? Also, is it possible to get forged pistions so this doesn't happen again?
I did replace the EGR heat exchanger/cooler. Apologies it though I showed that. The one I got from the dealer is stainless steel from original.
The cause of this problem was the engine heat seized from lack of coolant, would any type of piston stand up to this kind of heat 🤔🤔🤔
@@kennedysgarage3281 A failed Heat exchanger would cause this sort of problem no matter what the engine was made from. I'm now thinking that the heat exchanger could be made to be more reliable and save the engine from this sort of issue.
@@fourbypete absolutely correct, but I believe that they are manufacturing parts with a life span nowadays. They want parts to fail after 5 or 6 years 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
@@kennedysgarage3281 That's the sort of thinking that stops me buying a companies products.
Great video Peter full of valuable information very much looking forward to the second cartoon on this one. Made me chuckle when you said I’m in a mess with another Mazda 😂
Part 2 & 3 get a little messy too 😬😬
😂😂😂
@@kennedysgarage3281 Hi, I have the same SCBS warning too on my 2017 Mazda 6 with 20K miles, Mazda dealer couldn't find the fault until it then came on with EML with code P0101, now they tell me needs a carbon clean ! Bought some JLM Diesel Ultimate clean, 1L in the fuel tank clean, do you think it could help at least get rid of the fault, then the cars going, seems it's gonna be nothing but trouble. Thanks for any advice.
@@markdamms5287 unfortunately mark the only way to fix the carbon buildup is to remove the intake manifold & clean both the ports & manifold. It actually sounds like a very good car with very low mileage, just spend a few hundred quid & get it sorted. Then drive it for a few years 🤔🤔
@Kennedy’s garage cheers, I hear what you say, but if it's clogged up after only 20k miles, then how long before it's clogged again. Only had it 15 months, had 16k on when I bought it from a dealer (cars without the faf !!) with warranty, SCBS problems started within days, so in warranty, but because Mazda have failed for so long to diagnose it, they're saying its top long now, so declined the repair !!! Ombudsman have taken it up. Hopefully, they'll come down on my side 🙏
@@markdamms5287 small miles would possibly mean a lot of idling in traffic that could cause quite a bit of carbon. It is definitely worth a look anyway due to the manifold being easy enough to remove & fingers crossed it will be covered 🤞🤞🤞
Evening. I look after a couple of these 3.2s. They are troublesome mate. Have you seen the oil change procedure? Be careful is all I’m saying.
Is it the oil pump failing if left drain too long 🤔
And yes this one gives me a run around 😬😬👍
@@kennedysgarage3281 That’s right. Must be such a poor design Peter
That sounds fucked 👍
I should have thought the same, everyday is a school day. A good run is sometimes better than a bad stand 😂😂
We got 13 cdti combo in chain ratting head off got bottom end nock customer not bother about that just dosent start up he had one bad leak injector done nah need other 600 pound at knackered engine
@@chrismills9346 well I definitely should have run away from this one, as you will see in part 2 & 3 😂😂😂