I can't give this video enough likes... perfect amount of helpful info, from actually running the car with the knock, to showing how the rod bearings were wore out. Thank you
Love how u ddnt take the whole engine apart to do a simple fix im gonna check my rides now i have 2 vehicles with the same knock? THANK U SO MUCH FOR THE MECHANIC VIDEO!!!👍😀
Had this happen to my 94 Chevy Z71. 350 engine. It started when I pulled our 5th wheel to Blyth for Dove season. I lived in Hesperia, 170 miles away. The knock got real bad going up Cajon Pass, on the way home. I pulled the oil pan the next day, pulled off the #1 rod cap. The bearing was trashed, but the crank was fine. I replaced all the rod bearings with no further issues. The truck is still on the road today with over 431,000 miles on it, with the same bearings I put in it, purchased from NAPA auto parts.
Your a very lucky person to get away with just replacing the rod bearings especially after such a high mileage,I think at the very least I would have replaced the main bearings as well just to improve oil pressure,it’s not often you can get away with what you did at least not for long,you have more faith than me doing this.
This is a great video! My 2003 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L engine, makes the exact same noise. I am mechanically inclined to do the job. Thank you! You make it look easy.
thank you so much for sharing, My dad did this on my dodge and i needed a video to show a friend what was up. --- now he knows he can see that he too can do it too, lol sounds crazy maybe even a little scary but if you do it right keep it tight things should work out fine. ty again.
When repairing something like this, you have to be a bit of a detective. Ask yourself, "What would cause this?" The 2 answers are 1) not enough lubrication or 2) excessive engine speed. If there is not enough lubrication, take a look at the condition of the other rod bearings, and the main bearings. If something like a defective oil pump is the cause, then all of the bearings will have some damage. If it is just the one bearing, then I would suspect a clogged oil passage. The rod bearings are oiled by a passage in the crankshaft from one of the main bearings, in this engine probably the front one,. You can clean the passage in the crankshaft, and check to see if the passage from the block to the main bearing is clogged, which would also cause damage to the main bearing. Years ago, there was a service available where the journal could be ground in the car by removing the oil pan, and replacing the starter motor with a large electric motor. Various grinding stones would then be used to grind the journal round again. The engine would then be cleaned of the metal shavings, and the rod bearing replaced with a thicker one. I don't know if this is available now, as this is a very old way of repairing a crankshaft. Another possible repair is to buy a used crankshaft that is still in reasonably good condition, and replace the damaged one in the car. It can be a lot of work, but if a person does not have enough money for a rebuild, then this is a possibility. Also consider replacing the engine with a good used one from a wrecked car. These are some of the experiences I have had over many years repairing my own cars and friend's cars. Best wishes to you.
Quite a word there, you said it all.. the point you said a clogged, answered it all. The oil galleries sometimes blocked either due to bad oil or lack of servicing as on when due, presenting am battling same issue on a 400 series Perkins generator, infact the number one Piston had to burst the engine block, I have to get another wreck good engine block, change crankshaft, Piston, metal and main bearing.. am at final stage of rounding up, the Gen will soon be use again
if no oil, it was a problem of oil circulation. when you putted off the old piece, you noticed the absence of oil... you should have concluded the oil circulation was blocked on this piece... you should have pushed with air or with anything through the oil hole to disblock it... since the oil circuit was not cleaned there, the new piece was not oiled... so it soon came to ashes like the other one and the sound came back.
yes this si not how it must be done, it doesnt work this way, you ahve to open engine and check and clean everything new aprts may be necessary Engine machinist
I done mine before they got to bad still driving it change oil frequently your good I changed mine at 200,000 just because of cold start ever slight knock til warm
Thanks for your video. Though I’m just a girl interested in understanding how to diagnose the engine noises , your simple explanation and faithful demonstration make me thoroughly understand car engine🥰😚🙂 sorry for your car , thanks for your kindness 😇😇😍😍😍
My mild custom 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3800 Series II started a bearing rod knock as yours did - I changed oil to Synthetic and STP synthetic oil additive not traditional oil to nurse it, and it grew quiet but I'll keep my foot out of it. The main problem was standard recommended oil, it all started using passing gear oil sloshed a bearing dry.
1 of the most useful videos on RUclips This happened on my Opel Astra F c16se, 1st there was that engine knocking sound then I opened the top cover & noticed there was no oil reaching the hydraulic lifters then changed the 1 camshaft 2 oil 3 oil filter 4 head gasket It continued & was clueless untill I bumped into this video For sure my no1 piston was shacking and had no even a piece of bearing left. Will update soon, hope the parts I need now will get them by Tuesday. Thanks a ton man.
Lots of things you guys didn't even try. First of all you can't just replace only one and call it a day, you have to replace all and sand it a little to smoothen it.
If the nocks coming from a Ford f150. The nocks more than likely coming from the bottom on a rod barring. Great video. I ran my 99 ran low in oil and I put oil back in it. Started nocking. Heard it louder from the bottom.
BJ if you can hear it coming from the bottom of the engine it's going to be a rod bearing. The crankshaft sits inside the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. The lifters are at the very top of the engine trust me and save yourself some time you'll want to replace the whole engine.
@@Smashachu oh yeah.. I'm not rebuilding it. I already bought a new ride so. In the long run if I keep it. I'll put a new motor in it. Its definitely locked up.
FOR SALE RUNS WELL, FRESH OIL CHANGE (with gear oil and a bottle or 2 of STP OIL TREATMENT TO KEEP IT QUIET FOR a little while). ITS A DRIVER, DRIVE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT, LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!
The Subaru is way different due to it being a BOX motor, the casing has to be split apart. Just so you know and good luck. Coming from a former Subaru owner. I miss mine 😢
I did all this to my ford focus and had to fit new undersized bearings (thicker) and added the Lucas oil thickener...like the guy said.. the engine didn't turn over to easy but it wore its self in sufficiently..still going a year on
@@LeftInTheEnd ...the main journal was pretty much egg shaped to 0.5 of a mm.. With the crank shaft still in the engine.. sanding it down would be impossibly difficult..I just fitted undersized bearings to make the knocking less apparent....the really thick oil helps stop the metal against metal problem of an egg shaped journal...good luck
The crank shaft need to be resurfaced or replaced........I have seen a couple of people try (and been successful) to the polish the crank on the one crankpin journal for the connecting rod while it is still in the engine. It is not easy and it depends on the damage and how well it is polished and then how well the bearings are matched. If it is not done well it will end destroy the engine in the end. That bearing "spun" because of a lack of lubrication. You can tell by how dirty the engine is that oil has not been changed on a regular basis - that caused the engine failure. Moral of the story: Change your oil or you will end up changing your engine.
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL Understood.......I would have liked to see you polish the crankpin journal before replacing the bearing there......It still may have failed. Sometimes "the scoring" that is on the journal is just bearing material that needs to be removed. This (below) can be done with the crank in the block but it makes it more difficult. ruclips.net/video/RLb6bYuje4s/видео.html&pbjreload=101
Good video. Youd probably have got away with it if you'd polished the surfaces with very fine sandpaper and a wrapped shoelace. Does the trick most times.
Have a 2002 Subaru outback with a 2.0 4 cylinder, and we're fixing to drop the crankshaft out clean it up and put all new rod and bearings in it this way the bottom in is nice and fresh it only has a mild knock but we all know sooner or later that's going to get worse and catastrophic might as well get on it now and fix it before it gets worse
I heard a loud knocking coming from my engine bay, and then there was an enormous bang. My car just stopped in a cloud of steam. I was in the country so there weren't many places to seek help. I saw a farm very near so I decided to go there for help. The farmer was helpful and he took a look under my hood. He said your pistons have gone through the block. You will need a new engine. He said I think I can help you for £20. I said ok. He then came out of the farm with the biggest hen I have ever seen and he tied it into the engine compartment facing forward. He said when you want it to go just shout Mush, Mush. I couldn't see how that would work, but I got in the car and shouted Mush, Mush. The car took off like a rocket down the road. I drove about another 30 miles and I heard this loud clucking noise and the car stopped again. Luckily I wasn't far from a garage and I got the mechanic to have a look. He looked under the hood and he said. I see what's wrong. I said what is it? HE SAID YOUR BIG HENS GONE. 😜
My Little Ford Fiesta 1.4i was making a nasty clunking sound the other day I recorded the sound I immediately drained the oil and found ZERO metal fragments I took of the Valve cover casket and saw the seal was damaged so I replaced the seal now the car is not smoking anymore and the clunking is gone I couldnt believe it was probably low on oil since it burned oil.
I build engines part time; 5-6 a year. The instant he found glitter (its pulverized metal) in the oil pan the engine is junk; he should have put the pan back on and look for a new motor. Remember there is several times more in the rest of the engine and it is impossible to get even a fraction of it without removing, tearing down, and cleaning the block, heads, oil passages and every internal engine part. Otherwise when you get done repalcing the trashed bearing you start te car and pump pulverized metal i to the new bearings. Not to mention 99.9% of the time The crank MUST be machined.
@@Ownsterx Not much life. The best case scenario installing a bearing on a scored journal will last only give you 5-10 minutes. Then you have it towed home, your doing an engine transplant anyway.
@@Ownsterx on a scored crank he will have no oil film to support the pressures generated when the engine is running, so instant destruction of the new bearing surface. He wasted a lot of time and some money for no gain.
And also make sure to rev past 5500 RPM while it's cold to get cold oil circulating at the top end. That way the engine lasts longer and makes more power when you're ready to go.
I just did this job yesterday on my 07 grand prix I put a std bearing in but it still had a little play in it. I wanted to know if there is a little thicker bearing I can get. This is a great video keep help thanks
If Std bearing have the play, try the 10 size bearing, if that also have the play use 20. When you go for 20 remember it's the final point of the crankshaft. 20 can't hold load for too long.
Use green or blue loctite between the bearing shell and the rod/cap. The bearing will never spin again and it will provide some thickness. This is an actual racetrack practice and it works.
My father's subaru rattles and smokes on cold start then sounds fine (visible smoke only in cold weather). until you accelerate above 3000 rpm and the rattle starts again. I'm too far away to help my father, but the mechanics are telling him to change the engine. Does anyone have any advice or suggested steps to take? Thank you for taking the time
I'm having same problem with my Honda Accord 01 but if I drive too aggressive with it or especially up hill it knocks so hard coming from the passenger side I have to let off the gas a little bit just to stop it
you shod have checked why is there no oil coming out of lubrication hole.. well lubricated bearings wont seas up like this or slide under another bearing.. probably gum in oil circuit or just a bad oil pump providing less and less oil to required places, thus rendering this engine to fail.
Problem with this was serviced with cheap oil. The engine eaten up the oil and run low and nobody topped up rezulting low oil pressure and from that what you see unfortunately.
Emery cloth to hone the surfaces is a good all contact surfaces to prevent it spinning again and probably should replace the oil pickup too as it's probably clogged with bearing material
I just bought a 01 Ram 1500 SLT 5.2 Oil pan has left the chat on me after hearing knocking from under on a drive I will take oil pan off tomorrow to see as it is night time now but I’m mainly asking what all should I replace do I have to lift engine just to get pan off
looked like potentially an oil starvation issue to that journal imho - it was dry as a bone so the same thing probably happened to the new one as the root cause wasnt fixed.
Crankshaft and Rod were already ruined, if they are scratched like that there Is no point on changing the bearings, Is too late the crank Will eat the new bearings in no time
The cheapest fix to get this baby back on the road is a used engine. It will cost at least $1500 in parts and machining to get this engine back in spec. Rod bearing is major engine failure. He lucky if the engine starts and stay running 10 minutes with his solution.
No kidding! And even if it runs; five minutes away from that shop and anything over 2500 RPM it's gonna start knocking all over again, even if that rod shell bearing doesn't spin again, although it almost certainly will ! Wasted time spent making a half azzed repair that has a half-life measured in minutes.
Spun the bearing and when that happens that little oil port hole in the bearings misalign and close off. Then the crank journal REALLY starves on oil and it ovals off the rod journal on the crankshaft. Sometimes you can get lucky and only change the rod bearings and your ok. But it depends on how long you run the vehicle after it starts knocking
If you stop immediately when the knock appears you May have luck and save the engine, if you drive the car even a few km with the knock the crank gets ruined and goodbye engine
The barn job brothers strike again!!! The proper way to do that job was to completely disassemble the engine, resurface the cylinders , resurface the crank replace the connecting rod with the spun bearing throughly inspect the others, do a complete valve job since you have the head off already. Clean the entire block to remove the metal particles in the oil galleries fit new rings on the pistons and reassemble the engine. What you did there was simple deal with the symptoms you did nothing to address the original problem I could have told you the bearing was gonna spin again. All in all a crappy job!!!
@@paulkazjack Then again it could blow up tomorrow!!! Having all the metal debris running thru the engine is not a good idea. Doing it right assures it will run for a long time. Barn jobbing it like that you never sure how long it’ll run.
I knew before the end that the end result wouldn't be good. As soon as I saw the spun bearing, I knew you should have replaced the connecting rod. More than likely, it just spun again.
Don't use Red RTV as gasket on any oil pan and trans oil pan. It cann't block the oil coming out! I did 4 times on the Trans oil pan and still leak. While change to use Black RTV, no more leakage
Thats a remedy for sale it. A good work need to take out the cranck to a machine shop to set it and check the piston, and also put all the bearing. That engine suffered in much ways with that knocn
That ain't no lifter dude. Sounds like a con rod. Looks like con rod. Needs crank turned, oil pump and over size bearings. Can't cheap out on that one as you discovered.
It can, but I would not recommend it. The more you drive more damages it will create. At some point, the rod will become detached, and you will be stranded. If these are not big problems for you, then carry on using it. Hope this helps 🙂
How did this happen to begin with? Could it be any holes were clogged up and no oil is reaching to the bearing? Either ways...great video. I hope this never happens to anyone's vehicle. I am suspecting this happened due to lack of oil on that specific piston.
My opinion is because something blocked the access off oil in that area for some reason...either because of lack of oil in the engine or maybe some clogged holes like you said ...but also could be because of weak oil pump or just bad quality oil...
i doubt about the oilpump, cuz if it was the oilpump it cud hav overheated, and the damge wont just be in 1 of the bearings but all of it specially the pistons and rings
I have the same issue started yesterday and I'm looking for solutions but its not a desperate process it's more of a learning experience. Would I have to rebuild the engine or just replace the damaged parts?
Replacing the damaged parts should be enough. But the fastest way is to replace it with a good engine. You will need loads of gaskets and seals ones you tear it down. Also bear in mind that an engine is got couple of screws and parts that you will need to replace before reassembled. Good luck and Hope that helps
I have a 2003 f 150 5.4 liter and ive had a knock for a while but after i was pushing my truck earlier you could heard it a lot more and it would knock faster when yiu accelerate, i changed the oil like 2 weeks ago and idk what it is, any recommendations?
thank you for the video. Does it cause more damages if I continue driving the car with the knocking noise? how long can I still drive the car from the moment I hear the sound? should I refrain from driving the car altogether?
I don't recommend driving it. As long you drive the worse will get. To ask how long will drive ...depends on your driving style can last couple of months or weeks...
😂 no get a bore camera check the walls for damage if it's OK then replace the sliders flush the engine put it back together and your good to go probs 200 quid or less if the walls are damaged send away to have them reborded for couple 100 quid put back together and your good to go everyone always says needs an engine when infact it doesn't af repaired cars like this all the time and simple 😉
@@SmallPaul. More than likely it is damaged. If one part is damaged, the rest could be too. That why an engine rebuild is required. Running your engine in a condition like this is not very smart and will cause more problems down the line eventually requiring you to do a rebuild anyways.
My car (camry 2018 Se) at times has a knocking noise when I stop at a light or when the car is is D mode.The knocking disappear when I put it in N. any advice on what the problem might be
Sad to see you do this. I'm surprised the engine even turned over after you bolted the end cap back on. No micro measurement to make sure it's a correct fit, and the journal on the crankshaft was toast mate. Needed a regrind of all the journals and some paired oversized shells (bearings). An engine builder would cry watching this effort. I feel for the new owner! However, good effort on the video even shows you what NOT to do!
Thanks for the comment . I understand your concern but if you watch the hole video you will understand that this was an experimental repair and the fact that this didn't last for too long. And don't worry about the new owner because the car unfortunately was uneconomical to repair properly and ended up as a donor car for others. I appreciate that you cares about others. God bless you!
This happened to my car. Was driving fine. Drove an hour 75 miles, shut off the car for a few minutes, noise starting immediately after starting it again. Stranded
If you have a rod as loose as this one, not only can you NOT avoid regrinding the crankshaft, there’s a good chance the crank wear is past the point of grinding. I’ve seen many worn way past .030 rendering the crank junk.
You can get away with this fix if you patiently and carefully polish the scored crank pin and con rod big end bore. You did not show this process so assume you just replaced the bearing shells and left the crank pin and rod big end as is. In that case that was never going to last.
Good try. the bad crank journal needed to re-rounded and an oversized bearing and good connecting rod, as both crank and rod are not round any more, a new bearing could not solve the issue for long.
Be more clear?? And you wouldn't change all of them if I was down there I would change all of them but I think a little wears better than trying to clean something up and change the size all up
Deal really what you're saying that you're saying you the size 10 or 20 bigger bigger bearing and I have no idea what your how you're cleaning it how you're doing what. What don't move I would just change all the bearings and if it's a little bit wore so what. I ain't got crank out so without the crank out I would think you would be doing more damage to try to to round something up or something without without being able to make a perfect round and perfectly sized. And shouldn't it be torqued
this is happening to my dodge durango 2014 limited. It's only driven 86k. It's literally been perfect no problems no weird noises. Check engine light came on in the morning, it was making a faint weird noise and very very little shaking. By the afternoon time I took it to the shop, mechanic hooked it to a computer and said it's just the spark plugs, and I'm fine driving on it for now. I left and it shut off a few minutes later. When I towed it back to the shop, he said the starter was burnt because I tried turning it on when it shut off so he replaced it and he told me my engine is knocking and I need a new one. I turned the car on and it was knocking so loud. I am terrified right now.
FINALLY! An engine noise video that actually has a noise in it instead of 10 mins of talking about a noise...
Youre talking about that russian mechanic 🤣 i thought the same thing
Exactly
On God tho🤣🤣🤣❤️
Mi brother perdiste el tiempo, lo más importante como pudiste el cigüeña no lo mostraste, esperaba ver la tecnología rusa en accion.
Amen tid aved me from buy an Chevy ss with the dsme issues
I can't give this video enough likes... perfect amount of helpful info, from actually running the car with the knock, to showing how the rod bearings were wore out. Thank you
Happy to help. 😊
thank you so much. People like you give me hope there is humanity left in people and are willing to share their knowledge. Very Grateful
Some video s they just talk, some don t talk.
I actually learned something from this 👍
I am glad that this helps!😊
Love how u ddnt take the whole engine apart to do a simple fix im gonna check my rides now i have 2 vehicles with the same knock? THANK U SO MUCH FOR THE MECHANIC VIDEO!!!👍😀
screw the haters the video helps a lot
Thanks
Had this happen to my 94 Chevy Z71. 350 engine. It started when I pulled our 5th wheel to Blyth for Dove season. I lived in Hesperia, 170 miles away. The knock got real bad going up Cajon Pass, on the way home. I pulled the oil pan the next day, pulled off the #1 rod cap. The bearing was trashed, but the crank was fine. I replaced all the rod bearings with no further issues. The truck is still on the road today with over 431,000 miles on it, with the same bearings I put in it, purchased from NAPA auto parts.
Happy to hear that this procedure worked.
Your a very lucky person to get away with just replacing the rod bearings especially after such a high mileage,I think at the very least I would have replaced the main bearings as well just to improve oil pressure,it’s not often you can get away with what you did at least not for long,you have more faith than me doing this.
This is a great video! My 2003 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L engine, makes the exact same noise. I am mechanically inclined to do the job. Thank you! You make it look easy.
Thanks for watching. Happy to help.
thank you so much for sharing, My dad did this on my dodge and i needed a video to show a friend what was up. --- now he knows he can see that he too can do it too, lol sounds crazy maybe even a little scary but if you do it right keep it tight things should work out fine. ty again.
I am glad it helps ☺️
When repairing something like this, you have to be a bit of a detective. Ask yourself, "What would cause this?" The 2 answers are 1) not enough lubrication or 2) excessive engine speed. If there is not enough lubrication, take a look at the condition of the other rod bearings, and the main bearings. If something like a defective oil pump is the cause, then all of the bearings will have some damage. If it is just the one bearing, then I would suspect a clogged oil passage. The rod bearings are oiled by a passage in the crankshaft from one of the main bearings, in this engine probably the front one,. You can clean the passage in the crankshaft, and check to see if the passage from the block to the main bearing is clogged, which would also cause damage to the main bearing. Years ago, there was a service available where the journal could be ground in the car by removing the oil pan, and replacing the starter motor with a large electric motor. Various grinding stones would then be used to grind the journal round again. The engine would then be cleaned of the metal shavings, and the rod bearing replaced with a thicker one. I don't know if this is available now, as this is a very old way of repairing a crankshaft. Another possible repair is to buy a used crankshaft that is still in reasonably good condition, and replace the damaged one in the car. It can be a lot of work, but if a person does not have enough money for a rebuild, then this is a possibility. Also consider replacing the engine with a good used one from a wrecked car. These are some of the experiences I have had over many years repairing my own cars and friend's cars. Best wishes to you.
Quite a word there, you said it all.. the point you said a clogged, answered it all. The oil galleries sometimes blocked either due to bad oil or lack of servicing as on when due, presenting am battling same issue on a 400 series Perkins generator, infact the number one Piston had to burst the engine block, I have to get another wreck good engine block, change crankshaft, Piston, metal and main bearing.. am at final stage of rounding up, the Gen will soon be use again
@@princechigozie7194 I hope that you can get the generator working again at not too great of a cost. My best wishes to you.
Great VIDEO & Content guys ! You really helped me with the issue I’m having…. Keep up the great work !!! Peace
Probably the best rod knock videos out there. Nice job 👍🏼
Thanks
Fantastic video..best I have seen so far my my engine noise
I managed to fix my engine with the help of this video.
Happy to help!
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL if you can do an online shop for spare parts...I think that would be great
Man that this the most terrifying noise I have ever heard in my life. Breaks my heart and wallet
😂😂
My car have the same noise, I will try to fix it myself. Thank you very much
I'm glad this helped. Thanks for commenting🙂
if no oil, it was a problem of oil circulation.
when you putted off the old piece, you noticed the absence of oil... you should have concluded the oil circulation was blocked on this piece... you should have pushed with air or with anything through the oil hole to disblock it...
since the oil circuit was not cleaned there, the new piece was not oiled... so it soon came to ashes like the other one and the sound came back.
yes
this si not how it must be done, it doesnt work this way,
you ahve to open engine and check and clean everything new aprts may be necessary
Engine machinist
I just replaced a bearing and it's doing great
How long, about a week...
Still?
Still?
I done mine before they got to bad still driving it change oil frequently your good I changed mine at 200,000 just because of cold start ever slight knock til warm
Thanks for your video. Though I’m just a girl interested in understanding how to diagnose the engine noises , your simple explanation and faithful demonstration make me thoroughly understand car engine🥰😚🙂 sorry for your car , thanks for your kindness 😇😇😍😍😍
My mild custom 1998 Oldsmobile Intrigue 3800 Series II started a bearing rod knock as yours did - I changed oil to Synthetic and STP synthetic oil additive not traditional oil to nurse it, and it grew quiet but I'll keep my foot out of it. The main problem was standard recommended oil, it all started using passing gear oil sloshed a bearing dry.
I'm glad that worked out for you.
would have really been helpful if you showed the steps for the installation of the new bearings, but informative helpful video.
1 of the most useful videos on RUclips
This happened on my Opel Astra F c16se, 1st there was that engine knocking sound then I opened the top cover & noticed there was no oil reaching the hydraulic lifters then changed the
1 camshaft
2 oil
3 oil filter
4 head gasket
It continued & was clueless untill I bumped into this video
For sure my no1 piston was shacking and had no even a piece of bearing left.
Will update soon, hope the parts I need now will get them by Tuesday.
Thanks a ton man.
Thanks for the detailed comments...Happy to be useful. 🙂
thank you for the upload fellers. I appreciate you
Lots of things you guys didn't even try. First of all you can't just replace only one and call it a day, you have to replace all and sand it a little to smoothen it.
really super duper helpful video sir . thank you so much
Great video even though the end result wasn’t successful. Always wondered if this would work on a knocking engine
Mate, get long screwdriver and put rubber end to ear and put other end on motor, move around until U find where sound coming from.
First video I’ve found that shows the exact problem and noise I have
Nice diagnosis, love this content 💯
thanks for the video, same issue on my 2016 Hyundai Santa Fe had to replace oil pump and crankshaft with one piston arm.
Happy to help
I have a 2014 Santa Fe same noise did that fix the problem
From the description of the comment that did fix the problem.
Amazing, thank you so much. Please more videos
Thanks 🙏🏻 very much 👏👏✌️🥰 god luck 🍀
If the nocks coming from a Ford f150. The nocks more than likely coming from the bottom on a rod barring. Great video. I ran my 99 ran low in oil and I put oil back in it. Started nocking. Heard it louder from the bottom.
Thanks for sharing your experience.
BJ if you can hear it coming from the bottom of the engine it's going to be a rod bearing. The crankshaft sits inside the oil pan at the bottom of the engine. The lifters are at the very top of the engine trust me and save yourself some time you'll want to replace the whole engine.
@@Smashachu oh yeah.. I'm not rebuilding it. I already bought a new ride so. In the long run if I keep it. I'll put a new motor in it. Its definitely locked up.
@@Smashachu meant to say rod baring. Somebody else told me that. I appreciate the knowledge.
FOR SALE RUNS WELL, FRESH OIL CHANGE (with gear oil and a bottle or 2 of STP OIL TREATMENT TO KEEP IT QUIET FOR a little while). ITS A DRIVER, DRIVE IT, BUY IT, LOVE IT, LOVE EVERYTHING ABOUT IT!!!!!!!!
Video gave me confidence to get under car and drain it and take transmission oil pan off ,zz I have 2006 Subaru outback with this knock noise
The Subaru is way different due to it being a BOX motor, the casing has to be split apart. Just so you know and good luck. Coming from a former Subaru owner. I miss mine 😢
spun bearing. usually caused from lack of oil. at some point it probably had oil leak and ran it to low on oil in the past.
I did all this to my ford focus and had to fit new undersized bearings (thicker) and added the Lucas oil thickener...like the guy said.. the engine didn't turn over to easy but it wore its self in sufficiently..still going a year on
That is great. Thanks for sharing your experience.
I'm planning on doing this to my car...did you get undersized bearings because rod cap was scored? Did you sand anything down?
@@LeftInTheEnd ...the main journal was pretty much egg shaped to 0.5 of a mm..
With the crank shaft still in the engine.. sanding it down would be impossibly difficult..I just fitted undersized bearings to make the knocking less apparent....the really thick oil helps stop the metal against metal problem of an egg shaped journal...good luck
The crank shaft need to be resurfaced or replaced........I have seen a couple of people try (and been successful) to the polish the crank on the one crankpin journal for the connecting rod while it is still in the engine. It is not easy and it depends on the damage and how well it is polished and then how well the bearings are matched. If it is not done well it will end destroy the engine in the end. That bearing "spun" because of a lack of lubrication. You can tell by how dirty the engine is that oil has not been changed on a regular basis - that caused the engine failure. Moral of the story: Change your oil or you will end up changing your engine.
I agree with you, but this is just an experimental process as I mentioned in the video. Very nice comment , thanks 😊
@@DIY_PROFESSIONAL Understood.......I would have liked to see you polish the crankpin journal before replacing the bearing there......It still may have failed. Sometimes "the scoring" that is on the journal is just bearing material that needs to be removed. This (below) can be done with the crank in the block but it makes it more difficult.
ruclips.net/video/RLb6bYuje4s/видео.html&pbjreload=101
Great job y'all. Thank you.
Honestly thaks for this, saves me the time and effort
Great video for a lesson and learning.
Good video. Youd probably have got away with it if you'd polished the surfaces with very fine sandpaper and a wrapped shoelace. Does the trick most times.
Have a 2002 Subaru outback with a 2.0 4 cylinder, and we're fixing to drop the crankshaft out clean it up and put all new rod and bearings in it this way the bottom in is nice and fresh it only has a mild knock but we all know sooner or later that's going to get worse and catastrophic might as well get on it now and fix it before it gets worse
I heard a loud knocking coming from my engine bay, and then there was an enormous bang. My car just stopped in a cloud of steam. I was in the country so there weren't many places to seek help. I saw a farm very near so I decided to go there for help. The farmer was helpful and he took a look under my hood. He said your pistons have gone through the block. You will need a new engine. He said I think I can help you for £20. I said ok. He then came out of the farm with the biggest hen I have ever seen and he tied it into the engine compartment facing forward. He said when you want it to go just shout Mush, Mush. I couldn't see how that would work, but I got in the car and shouted Mush, Mush. The car took off like a rocket down the road. I drove about another 30 miles and I heard this loud clucking noise and the car stopped again. Luckily I wasn't far from a garage and I got the mechanic to have a look. He looked under the hood and he said. I see what's wrong. I said what is it? HE SAID YOUR BIG HENS GONE. 😜
been wondering what was the piston arm...
are you talking about the connecting rod?
I think this can work only if the bearings have not spun. It may not be the right way, but can keep a car on the road longer instead of the junkyard.
My Little Ford Fiesta 1.4i was making a nasty clunking sound the other day I recorded the sound I immediately drained the oil and found ZERO metal fragments I took of the Valve cover casket and saw the seal was damaged so I replaced the seal now the car is not smoking anymore and the clunking is gone I couldnt believe it was probably low on oil since it burned oil.
I build engines part time; 5-6 a year. The instant he found glitter (its pulverized metal) in the oil pan the engine is junk; he should have put the pan back on and look for a new motor. Remember there is several times more in the rest of the engine and it is impossible to get even a fraction of it without removing, tearing down, and cleaning the block, heads, oil passages and every internal engine part. Otherwise when you get done repalcing the trashed bearing you start te car and pump pulverized metal i to the new bearings. Not to mention 99.9% of the time The crank MUST be machined.
The engine is fucked, he knows it's fucked, this will at least get a little more life out of it.
@@Ownsterx
Not much life. The best case scenario installing a bearing on a scored journal will last only give you 5-10 minutes. Then you have it towed home, your doing an engine transplant anyway.
@@Ownsterx on a scored crank he will have no oil film to support the pressures generated when the engine is running, so instant destruction of the new bearing surface. He wasted a lot of time and some money for no gain.
I was very curious how far this car made it on this fix, not too far looks like !
Sounds good dude, just add more boost like 1,5 bars would be fine and move ahead.
And also make sure to rev past 5500 RPM while it's cold to get cold oil circulating at the top end. That way the engine lasts longer and makes more power when you're ready to go.
@@tmo2798 Exactly
😄
I just did this job yesterday on my 07 grand prix I put a std bearing in but it still had a little play in it. I wanted to know if there is a little thicker bearing I can get. This is a great video keep help thanks
If Std bearing have the play, try the 10 size bearing, if that also have the play use 20. When you go for 20 remember it's the final point of the crankshaft. 20 can't hold load for too long.
Use green or blue loctite between the bearing shell and the rod/cap. The bearing will never spin again and it will provide some thickness. This is an actual racetrack practice and it works.
My father's subaru rattles and smokes on cold start then sounds fine (visible smoke only in cold weather). until you accelerate above 3000 rpm and the rattle starts again. I'm too far away to help my father, but the mechanics are telling him to change the engine. Does anyone have any advice or suggested steps to take? Thank you for taking the time
I'm having same problem with my Honda Accord 01 but if I drive too aggressive with it or especially up hill it knocks so hard coming from the passenger side I have to let off the gas a little bit just to stop it
Apparently there is a problem with injectors from my experience...
you shod have checked why is there no oil coming out of lubrication hole.. well lubricated bearings wont seas up like this or slide under another bearing.. probably gum in oil circuit or just a bad oil pump providing less and less oil to required places, thus rendering this engine to fail.
Problem with this was serviced with cheap oil. The engine eaten up the oil and run low and nobody topped up rezulting low oil pressure and from that what you see unfortunately.
Hallo, danke für das Video. Ich habe exakt das gleiche Problem bei meinem Chrysler new Yorker 1995. schöne Grüße aus Deutschland
Emery cloth to hone the surfaces is a good all contact surfaces to prevent it spinning again and probably should replace the oil pickup too as it's probably clogged with bearing material
I just bought a 01 Ram 1500 SLT 5.2
Oil pan has left the chat on me after hearing knocking from under on a drive I will take oil pan off tomorrow to see as it is night time now but I’m mainly asking what all should I replace do I have to lift engine just to get pan off
looked like potentially an oil starvation issue to that journal imho - it was dry as a bone so the same thing probably happened to the new one as the root cause wasnt fixed.
Crankshaft and Rod were already ruined, if they are scratched like that there Is no point on changing the bearings, Is too late the crank Will eat the new bearings in no time
weak oil pump can cause oil starvation at idle or a restriction. probably should have replaced oil pump to
Thank you for being honest
The cheapest fix to get this baby back on the road is a used engine. It will cost at least $1500 in parts and machining to get this engine back in spec. Rod bearing is major engine failure. He lucky if the engine starts and stay running 10 minutes with his solution.
No kidding! And even if it runs; five minutes away from that shop and anything over 2500 RPM it's gonna start knocking all over again, even if that rod shell bearing doesn't spin again, although it almost certainly will ! Wasted time spent making a half azzed repair that has a half-life measured in minutes.
Im very thank full for this video today i save my 30000 from yours tip
The way tht bearing was damaged sure the crankshaft too must have..total overhaul necessary for the engine...
Unfortunately, yes, you're right
That's wonderful.. I also did to my volvo 850 too
Thanks for the video brothers.
Very Amizing thank you so much
Spun the bearing and when that happens that little oil port hole in the bearings misalign and close off. Then the crank journal REALLY starves on oil and it ovals off the rod journal on the crankshaft. Sometimes you can get lucky and only change the rod bearings and your ok. But it depends on how long you run the vehicle after it starts knocking
What would you consider “running to long?” After the knock?
Yes how long would that be because I just screwed up royally
If you stop immediately when the knock appears you May have luck and save the engine, if you drive the car even a few km with the knock the crank gets ruined and goodbye engine
@gillespriod5 Not necessarily goodbye engine but new crankshaft new bearings
how long did the repair last
New engine means I’m getting rid of my vehicle. I’ve replaced a lot of things already in a vehicle that isn’t worth more than $3500
I feel sad to hear that but in some cases you better let it go.
The barn job brothers strike again!!! The proper way to do that job was to completely disassemble the engine, resurface the cylinders , resurface the crank replace the connecting rod with the spun bearing throughly inspect the others, do a complete valve job since you have the head off already. Clean the entire block to remove the metal particles in the oil galleries fit new rings on the pistons and reassemble the engine.
What you did there was simple deal with the symptoms you did nothing to address the original problem I could have told you the bearing was gonna spin again.
All in all a crappy job!!!
he had nothing to lose from the try.
Why spend all that money doing that?? This engine could run for years with this fix.
@@paulkazjack
Then again it could blow up tomorrow!!!
Having all the metal debris running thru the engine is not a good idea.
Doing it right assures it will run for a long time. Barn jobbing it like that you never sure how long it’ll run.
Good video. This is happening to my 06 Infiniti M35. How much does a repair like this usually cost?
Good info and advise thanks
I knew before the end that the end result wouldn't be good. As soon as I saw the spun bearing, I knew you should have replaced the connecting rod. More than likely, it just spun again.
Don't use Red RTV as gasket on any oil pan and trans oil pan. It cann't block the oil coming out! I did 4 times on the Trans oil pan and still leak. While change to use Black RTV, no more leakage
my 2010 c5 1.6hdi has this problem .thought id found the fix here but going to have to scrap it.
Thats a remedy for sale it. A good work need to take out the cranck to a machine shop to set it and check the piston, and also put all the bearing. That engine suffered in much ways with that knocn
good job. do you beleive crankshaft or connectinmg rod bearings sounds can be up /down just sometimes not in all revelotions?
Very good video!
Bad oil pump, caused the bearing worn out badly
Agreed.
That ain't no lifter dude. Sounds like a con rod. Looks like con rod. Needs crank turned, oil pump and over size bearings. Can't cheap out on that one as you discovered.
No oil pressure at idle usually/very often means the oil pump is gone. Maybe that was the problem in the first place.
Can it be driven in meanwhile for short period of times ?? Will it damage the engine more ??
Yes . Will destroy it shortly.
It can, but I would not recommend it. The more you drive more damages it will create. At some point, the rod will become detached, and you will be stranded. If these are not big problems for you, then carry on using it. Hope this helps 🙂
How did this happen to begin with? Could it be any holes were clogged up and no oil is reaching to the bearing? Either ways...great video. I hope this never happens to anyone's vehicle. I am suspecting this happened due to lack of oil on that specific piston.
My opinion is because something blocked the access off oil in that area for some reason...either because of lack of oil in the engine or maybe some clogged holes like you said ...but also could be because of weak oil pump or just bad quality oil...
Probably bad oilpump...
i doubt about the oilpump,
cuz if it was the oilpump it cud hav overheated, and the damge wont just be in 1 of the bearings but all of it specially the pistons and rings
I have the same issue started yesterday and I'm looking for solutions but its not a desperate process it's more of a learning experience. Would I have to rebuild the engine or just replace the damaged parts?
Replacing the damaged parts should be enough. But the fastest way is to replace it with a good engine. You will need loads of gaskets and seals ones you tear it down. Also bear in mind that an engine is got couple of screws and parts that you will need to replace before reassembled. Good luck and Hope that helps
I have a 2003 f 150 5.4 liter and ive had a knock for a while but after i was pushing my truck earlier you could heard it a lot more and it would knock faster when yiu accelerate, i changed the oil like 2 weeks ago and idk what it is, any recommendations?
Rod knock or bearing failure
thank you for the video. Does it cause more damages if I continue driving the car with the knocking noise? how long can I still drive the car from the moment I hear the sound? should I refrain from driving the car altogether?
Yes don’t drive it won’t last long at all
Thank you@@nedoscarsandfishingvideos5500
I don't recommend driving it. As long you drive the worse will get. To ask how long will drive ...depends on your driving style can last couple of months or weeks...
so how much is the total cost ? Please if you can send the entire LIST of parts needed to change? Thanks including gaskets
Probably over $3000 if you do it yourself and even more for labor. Engine rebuilds are not cheap.
😂 no get a bore camera check the walls for damage if it's OK then replace the sliders flush the engine put it back together and your good to go probs 200 quid or less if the walls are damaged send away to have them reborded for couple 100 quid put back together and your good to go everyone always says needs an engine when infact it doesn't af repaired cars like this all the time and simple 😉
@@SmallPaul. More than likely it is damaged. If one part is damaged, the rest could be too. That why an engine rebuild is required. Running your engine in a condition like this is not very smart and will cause more problems down the line eventually requiring you to do a rebuild anyways.
It needs either a rebuild or engine replacement.
Yes. You're right!
Every time u guys hear a knocking u think engine need to be replace thats some rookie shit. Fix dat bitch
@@Jamrockmusicgroup No, son. You must like cracking peanuts and sunflower seeds. A replacement is a much better option.
My car (camry 2018 Se) at times has a knocking noise when I stop at a light or when the car is is D mode.The knocking disappear when I put it in N. any advice on what the problem might be
I am not an expert in automatic gearboxes but from what you tell looks like you have a problem with the gearbox.
I have the same issue with my 2018 sonata.
Might be an oil pressure problem. Hook up an external pressure gage.
Sad to see you do this. I'm surprised the engine even turned over after you bolted the end cap back on. No micro measurement to make sure it's a correct fit, and the journal on the crankshaft was toast mate. Needed a regrind of all the journals and some paired oversized shells (bearings). An engine builder would cry watching this effort. I feel for the new owner! However, good effort on the video even shows you what NOT to do!
Thanks for the comment . I understand your concern but if you watch the hole video you will understand that this was an experimental repair and the fact that this didn't last for too long. And don't worry about the new owner because the car unfortunately was uneconomical to repair properly and ended up as a donor car for others. I appreciate that you cares about others. God bless you!
This happened to my car. Was driving fine. Drove an hour 75 miles, shut off the car for a few minutes, noise starting immediately after starting it again. Stranded
Bought a Japanese car and resumed your journey?
@@romeosincere117 I was in a Nissan Maxima 💀
My car did the same, was driving fine, slowly, it stalled out, needed a jump, turned back on, and this.
@@ashlynlarsen depends the year. Nissans are made here in isa
So with all that being said, how much does this cost on average and at this point?
Can you change the bearings without grinding the crankshaft?
Yes , but the result may not be ideal. If no damage was made to the crankshaft then your good.
If you have a rod as loose as this one, not only can you NOT avoid regrinding the crankshaft, there’s a good chance the crank wear is past the point of grinding. I’ve seen many worn way past .030 rendering the crank junk.
You can get away with this fix if you patiently and carefully polish the scored crank pin and con rod big end bore. You did not show this process so assume you just replaced the bearing shells and left the crank pin and rod big end as is. In that case that was never going to last.
Thanks Borat 😊
Rod bearing spun , that's why the cap and crank shaft was dry in that spot .
Good try. the bad crank journal needed to re-rounded and an oversized bearing and good connecting rod, as both crank and rod are not round any more, a new bearing could not solve the issue for long.
You alright. Thanks for the advice.
This was super helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Did yall like not watch the end of the video he legit said it didn’t last long and that he doesn’t recommend
Spun bearing,clean crank,use 10,20 over size bearing drill for and bearing so it won't spin,will last for a while,use 40 weight oil
Pin for for and bearing I use brazing rod
Be more clear?? And you wouldn't change all of them if I was down there I would change all of them but I think a little wears better than trying to clean something up and change the size all up
Deal really what you're saying that you're saying you the size 10 or 20 bigger bigger bearing and I have no idea what your how you're cleaning it how you're doing what. What don't move I would just change all the bearings and if it's a little bit wore so what. I ain't got crank out so without the crank out I would think you would be doing more damage to try to to round something up or something without without being able to make a perfect round and perfectly sized. And shouldn't it be torqued
this is happening to my dodge durango 2014 limited. It's only driven 86k. It's literally been perfect no problems no weird noises. Check engine light came on in the morning, it was making a faint weird noise and very very little shaking. By the afternoon time I took it to the shop, mechanic hooked it to a computer and said it's just the spark plugs, and I'm fine driving on it for now. I left and it shut off a few minutes later. When I towed it back to the shop, he said the starter was burnt because I tried turning it on when it shut off so he replaced it and he told me my engine is knocking and I need a new one. I turned the car on and it was knocking so loud. I am terrified right now.
That's very weird to be honest.. I never thought that a spark plug can cause this big issue...I feel sorry for you!
Yeap you don’t need a new car you need a new mechanic because that one is full of sh…t
that engine is knock knock knocking on heavens door.