Milwaukee Rotary Hammer Review & Ergonomic Improvement
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 25 фев 2023
- Reviewing Milwaukee's GREAT 1-3/4" SDS Max Rotary Hammer and how I made it MORE GREATER with a custom ergonomic handle upgrade.
Even though this is an unsponsored video, will you consider shopping with Next Level Carpentry at ACME Tools? Their prices are always competitive and often match other online outlets, plus they add value by offering a higher level of product knowledge and excellent customer service when compared to other sources who focus more on moving product than on satisfying customers. Any tools purchased through affiliate links here are the same cost to you but ACME pays small add fees that support video production at the Channel, which I always appreciate.
Milwaukee 1-3/4" SDS Max Rotary Hammer: imp.i284638.net/oeQEke
Milwaukee M18 Fuel 1-3/4" SDS Max Rotary Hammer: imp.i284638.net/RyJvM2
Wide Tile Scraper/Chisel: imp.i284638.net/yRGdXB
3" Wide Scaling Chisel: imp.i284638.net/qnrbaq
Structron Prybar I Didn't Have: imp.i284638.net/DVDXv5
Structron Flat Shovel: imp.i284638.net/rnj6mj
Makita Subcomact Driver/Drill Kit: imp.i284638.net/kjLBY0
Milwaukee Ratcheting Combination Wrench Set: imp.i284638.net/Vyoq76
Additional tools and supplies you see in use in this and other videos from the Channel are available through this Next Level Carpentry Influencer's Page on Amazon: amzn.to/3Syqit3
Note to Viewers: Purchases made through these links are at the same low online price you expect but Amazon pays small ad fees to the Channel that help justify the time I invest producing videos you get to watch for free here on RUclips.
RUclips's Algorithm doesn't reward producers of videos on obscure topics like this one very well but you can by becoming a Next Level Carpentry patron through Patreon:
www.patreon.com/NextLevelCarp...
If you found this video particularly useful you can always click the Super Thanks icon in the video action bar to let Matt know. A Super Thanks announcement shows up in the video's Comments section and is always a bright spot in my day! 😉😎 
Хобби
Years ago I mounted a nylon ‘D’ handle from a broken shovel on the rear grip of a Hilti TE55 I used a pipe pvc pipe flange it allowed the handle to swivel for the most comfort.
Sounds like an interesting modification... I like that your version was able to swivel too. With all the fuss for ergonomics, workplace safety, etc in today's construction world I'm quite surprised that tool manufacturers haven't realized the shortcomings in their tools that hands on guys like us find so obvious. It's easy to imagine that design engineers don't ever do much of the actual work their tools are made to do. I'll be curious if this generates any response from Milwaukee... but I'm not holding my breath for it!
@@NextLevelCarpentry thanks for the reply! I wouldn’t hold my breadth either, but maybe you can market it?
There's a chance that Milwaukee engineers will see this video and the Ergo Handle upgrade through my contact at Acme Tools since they are a huge outlet for the brand. It would be gratifying to hear some sort of reaction from them but who knows. Their in house R&D probably filters out stuff like this as distracting and of little long term value.
Hilti & Bosch are tops in demo hammers👍
Really nice solution Matt! It's amazing how much pressure we put on the nerves in our wrists... Anything you can do to eliminate that stress pays off in spades.
Thanks Greg! It was a fun hack to make and use with a good deal of satisfaction from having the first prototype actually be functional.
For design perspective: I just started with cardboard templates to zero in on a workable configuration. I intended to make the sides out of bent metal to offset width between the tool handle and desired handle grip width but it was going to be too much trouble so I resorted to wood, my favorite medium. The design would have been more 'elegant' without the little maple filler blocks on the sides but not worth the extra effort logistically to make it happen... and my wrist doesn't even know the difference 😉
Great work!
Thanks William... one thing I'll say for sure is that I'm glad the slate tile part of this project is over!
"...because I'm a carpenter first and a tool designer a distant third..." hilarious! I enjoy your detailed videos, insights, explanations, reasoning, and sense of humor.
Makes it easy to spot M.I.T. alumni, doesn't it? 😉😎
Pure Genius! Milwaukee makes great tools, but you make them Awesome!
Thanks Ted... back in the day I'd just use the tool and tough it out. Not the smartest approach because it's unnecessary bodily abuse that adds up over time...
@@NextLevelCarpentry I'm 74 years old, and know exactly what you're talking about.
All I can say is that "vee git too soon oldt undt too late schmardt!" 😂
@@NextLevelCarpentry: May the schmardts be with you. 😁✌🖖
@@NextLevelCarpentry Jawohl
Tough job. The Rotary Hammer really helps, but the modification looks spot on. And necessary, too. There is no reason to cripple yourself while getting the job done.
Thanks for the video!
👍👍
I imagine you can imagine exactly what my wrist felt like after a few hours chipping with the tool before I made the accessory handle. Pain like that is a real motivator for creativity and determination to make it go away! Mountain/road bike season is not far off and I don't want a lame wrist to keep me from that 😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry These days, I get sore just thinking about that kind of work.
😎
As a 30 y/o 2nd gen residential contractor, it's been extremely disheartening trying to find tools that will improve my workflow in practice, rather than _theoretically._
It's *painfully* obvious when you use or even hold a tool for the first time that the -engineers- designers never used or held either...
When a tool fails to perform it's only job... _I just don't know why anyone expects me to perform my job either!!!_ The _nerve_ society has, to *only* demand professionalism from me just because I'm on the frontline dealing with people face-to-face!
If I had proper recording equipment I'd have been recording my product reviews the entire way, exactly like you've done here. I can't thank you enough for being one of the few putting in effort to improve the world around us. It feels great to relate to someone else who recognizes the 3rd-party slack/laziness that ends up being the responsibility of the end-user to fix in the field or actually finish designing like you've done here. Meanwhile the _designers_ count their money for selling tens of millions of faulty products to people who just don't know any better and wish we'd shut up and get back to our menial labor...
Not even my father understands after 30-40 years as a contractor himself. He'll buy the cheapest tool on the shelf and replace it every job if required, because "they're all made in the same factory in china, so why pay more for a different color?" I can't blame him for not wanting to sift through the trash to find the gem, because there's too much junk and he's learned everything changes eventually; after enough generations companies motives will change and so does their quality control. What he doesn't realize is he's funding and directly perpetuating the cycle of shit! Stop reinforcing bad product design with your cheap attitude! Great tools require great design and great money! You can't obtain greatness with the cheapest minimum viable product!
Milwaukee tends to skirt this line pretty often between next-level innovation and utter incompetence. The major selling features of a new tool might be just the answer you needed to make your job easier but if any one of them wasn't actually tested, the entire tool could be rendered useless and a waste of anyone's time.
Like a lightweight circular saw that sacrificed too much rigidity and won't cut straight unless held by a robotic arm... or the LEDs on tools intended to light up the work surface but end up making it harder to see because it's not actually aiming past the tip of the screwgun, or occluded/blocked by another part of the tool/your hand with a glove on....
This is to say, Milwaukee is still far better than the cheap brands who don't get anything right, but the fact is most of the money these big tools make is thanks entirely to the marketing showing off their tools as perfectly tuned hand-crafted wonder machines that make everyone's life easier the moment they touch it.
I'm disappointed in Milwaukee because they could make everything great but choose to save money instead. The cheaper brands just aren't even trying to make a good tool, aren't worth discussion, and should find other business to do, instead of wasting resources on landfill junk.
You also can't rely on professionals these days and that's frightening to me. I've been let down by every single professional interaction I've had since the pandemic started.
No one gives a shit anymore but everyone pretends to for an imaginary status quo. I guess their pride is more important than the world they live in. If everyone was honest about their short-comings we'd be further along in progress, healthier, with more trust to share!
Don't worry, Tradesman, we'll be running enough of the world to be happy once A.I. replaces all the jobs these numbskulls are currently burning resources in. The demand for tradeskills is about to be the only demand worth a damn, and I can't wait to see it!
Today I filled up my forklift with a fuel can my customer had brought, when I was nearing the end of the can my dad asked me if it was going to be my new favorite gas can, and I said no this thing is a joke and when I brought it over for him to look at, he goes oh wow the air vent is so close to the spout that it looks like it dumps fuel out when you tip it up, and I said yes that’s exactly how it works, obviously whoever designed it never actually took it out and put it to use, if they had, it would’ve never made it past the design stage and into production.
Hi, Matt. Great piece of work, on your handle mod.
Yes, if you were 25 years younger, you may have just blown off the
wrist pain, but you still would have had wrist damage.
Tool designers, these day, have ergonomics, as part of their studies.
Obviously, this doesn't always fit the bill, in the real world. I've seen that, in many different areas.
And that is where experience and wisdom, like yours comes into play.
Hey... I admit to more than my fair share of macho toughness back in the day and regret ignoring sensible sensation signals my body sent. My wrists aren't all they could be if I was more considerate but I'm able to do a lot of stuff others much younger can't because they don't think enough about consequences or alternatives.
Best,
Matt
Last summer I had to remove the tiles. I realized that 30-40 degree of the tip divides its impact to two directions up and down and loses its efficacy. Later I used the machine upside down and the tip relatively easily went under the tile because the major impact went almost horizontally under the tile. . Your MacGyver design is fabulous. I will copy that for this summer projects.
Most SDS Max chisels come new with a double beveled tip. I think manufacturers do this because that configuration doesn't dull quite as quickly and I guess few users ever sharpen brute force chisel tips like these.
As soon as that tip starts to dull I re-sharpen it with a single bevel tip that works MUCH better. You must have noticed I mentioned 'bevel down' orientation a couple times in the video because, as you realized, it really does make a difference in results. FWIW I figure bits are expendable and use them accordingly. At $26, the 3" bit is crazy cheap and I don't hesitate to re-sharpen it frequently during use on site using a 9" angle grinder and metal grinding wheel.
Best,
Matt
I've got the 5262-21 1" SDS PLUS rotary hammer - basically the SDS PLUS version of the same tool - has nearly all the same settings - no trigger lock but I think it has everything else. One thing I like about it is it's easy to use while rotated in any orientation, and also because it has a more shallow profile and less weight, you can bring it much closer to the floor. My guess is even with the lower power of SDS PLUS, it might do a better job for this specific work, as the ease of changing the angle of the tool lets you quickly find the sweet spot for maximizing progress. Highly recommended.
It would be interesting to compare the key feature of the two tool models: actual force/energy of the impact. I have to think that more is better. Like hitting with a 16 oz hammer or a 4lb sledge: really makes a difference. That said, I'd hate to have to do much drilling at shoulder height with this tool where the SDS plus would be a lot more manageable...
Thanks Chips! Excellent mod and great to see how you go about such horrible jobs.
You're welcome, Ben. Truth be told, removing the slate wasn't the worst of it... removing the pile of sheetrock was the real REAL "horrible job"! 😲
I use that same model everyday at work it's a beast. Nothing compares to it.
Best in its class IMHO too!
I really like the fact that your modification now allows you use your legs to help push the rotary tool forward, which would be quite cumbersome to accomplish without your handle. I always learn so much by consuming your content so please continue. It really does make a difference. Peace.
You and Chip are a pair that will beat any full house-thoughtful adaptation too
Now if i could only get him to stay around long enough to actually help run the tool, right?
@@NextLevelCarpentry Having many years with volunteer organizations, I have noticed food is a genuine incentive
@@edmastin74 Thanks for the tip... I'll offer fish and chips to Chip and see where that gets me! 😂
I have the similar-sized tool but it's a Bosch. I found that it's very uncomfortable being that low to the floor. So rather than rotate the tool I cut the b in half and welded extensions so I could stand up. Or be in a more upright kneeling position. This made it easier on my back my elbow and my wrist. I did this to both bits.
Great hack Traky Boy... I was looking for longer bits but I'll bet the manufacturers don't make 'em longer because people would pry with them which would put too much leverage on the chuck and cause it to fail. I had a notion to extend the bits too so it's good to learn you found that a workable workaround. 😎
Nice simple update to your rotary hammer. You forgot to plug Lintz Brothers Pizza and how it makes the paint job better.
I slipped that little Lintz Bros box clip into the video for viewers who are 'in the know' James... it's fun to see you picked up on it!
I think you should add "and modification" to the title. But heck, who am I to give you suggestions? In any case, my knees, my hands, my lungs, my ears, my eyes and just about everything else is hurting right now thinking about how I would feel if I was doing that job even with that rotary hammer. Ooof. But, as you know, you gotta get through the dirty part to get to the fun part. Thanks for this video Matt.
Point well taken, Rick... thanks! "Milwaukee Rotary Hammer Review & Ergonomic Improvement"
Maybe excessive title editing but liked your suggestion...
We were planning to just remove carpet and this slate tile but ended up totally gutting the space... OOOF indeed!
You'll need a vacation after that graft!!!!
Hi there Matt. I was about to pull the trigger on the M18 RH, but wound up going for the corded version in stead, since I wasn't sure how much immediate use it'd see, and I wanted it to be a lasting tool, not depending on future changes to battery interfaces etc., though so far Milwaukee's have been good about sticking to the same.
Other factors leading to the corded version was weight and accessibility.
As I think I've mentioned, I'm in timber framing, and we use it both with re-ground chisels to fit woodworking, as well as specialty sds wood chisels. In timber framing repairs qe need a pretty sleek tool profile to get in where we want, and quite often we'd get in situations where the battery would get in the way. We don't have that problem on the corded.
Anyway, so far it's been a great tool, adjustments and tool holding capabilities are great, as well as ergonomics.
I never considered using chisels for wood but it sounds like a significant time/energy saver for that sort of situations!
I bought the Makita and it is so comfortable to use - it has a soft start that is amazing - I am a longtime HIlti user and owner and the Makita is better in my opinion.
@@gregorymacneil2836 There seem to be a number of decent options out there. I gravitate to Makita for a lot of my tools and understand your preference and satisfaction with yours. Which model do you have? Also curious if you experience wrist fatigue because, from all I've seen, no brand of tool in this category has a 'horizontal' handle configuration.
@@NextLevelCarpentry Makita HM0871C and HM1213C - I have not experienced any wrist fatigue except for overhead work - which you never really want to do with any demo hammer. The trick of course is to let the tool do the work - I will tell you the soft-start makes the Makita amazingly precise with a pointed chisel. We have very few Makita tools but lots of Milwaukee - I bought the HM1213C first for a 5 inch basement slab demo and my father added the lighter HMO871C for everything else including some bush hammer work - I looked at the Milwaukee but thought it was bulky. My Hilti SDS handles everything else from drilling to light chipping but it is old and without modern vibration damping. Hilti would have been my first choice except that one Hilti is the same price as two or maybe three Makita. If I were doing this day in day out I would have pulled the trigger on the HiIti.
No Demo Hammer is lightweight or free of grease - they all make for a dirty day of work. Your handle looks interesting - I do enjoy your channel and am a happy subscriber.😀
@@NextLevelCarpentry Neither did I before actually entering modern day timber framing restoration. It knocks off the bulk right quick, and you can actually shave it fairly close with a little practice. We use both SDS MAX and SDS PLUS for it, depending on size, location etc. The rest is done with a 5" grinder with a 14 grit TCT flat disc and hand tools, to get into all the corners, but it does save a great deal of back breaking positions for extended periods of rime, when working in-situ, shaping existing timbers to accept either a Dutchman, a scarf joint or whatever else may be the case. Of course it's quite a bit different on these shores, as most of the timber framing is halftimbered, and not a fully exposed structure, like timber framing typically would be in the US. We don't use them on fresh lumber on the horses of course - that's the reign of saws, chain mortisers, mortise axes etc.
The SDS MAX chisels we've had to shape from concrete chisels, so it's a case of finding the right length, width and shape, whether you need it straight or angled. The SDS PLUS we've done the same, but Makita actually does make actual designated wood chisels for it, even in different sizes I think, but here's one.
www.amazon.com/Makita-P-25111-Chisel-30X170-Multi-Colour/dp/B000UYZK06
Nice idea.
I wonder if the chisel you started with created too much inertia to move.
I will continue to watch the video and see how it works.
Thanks for the video.
I don't think excess inertia is the problem with that wide tile chisel. It's more a matter of lack of impact force to the point it just doesn't pack enough of a punch to fracture the underlayment. Off camera I ended up doing sections of the removal with a 2" wide chisel that was more effective than the 3" size by another 30%.
Brilliant! BTW, I’m on Patreon! Semper Fi
I saw your sign-up on Patreon... thanks for that! If you ever need a tool like this, I think it's a great value for getting difficult demo work done.
My long gone 1980’s era, Black & Decker, 1/2 chuck drill had a D-shaped handle that bolted onto the rear end of the drill. Notches at the NSEW points allowed you to set the orientation of the handle. Milwaukee could easily design a similar mount.
Matt, I have a PhD from MIT😂. Very nice modification to the hammer chisel.
Degrees from the real M.I.T. don't come easy. Kudos for completing the ongoing course load to earn that well-deserved certification!
I had to opt out of this one. I have stopped buying tools from Chinese Tool companies 6 or 7 years ago.
I use a Bosch DN1020VC with the 6 inch scraping blade. The tiles just fly up and it scrapes the thin set too. Oh edit I checked at 29:40🤣😂 you don't know it but you do need the Bosch DH1020VC!
I might "need" that Bosch, but I don't want it. What I really need is to hire someone with a Bosch DH1020VC to do this removal for me! A reputation for being great at tile removal is something else I don't want. Plus, this machine can drill holes in concrete which is something I want to be capable of but not to the point of building a reputation for that either😉😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry yes I have them in all sizes from Bosch. The DH1020VC is 22lbs I think then I have a 14 lber like that red one you had then the Bulldog then battery tools for the small stuff.
You need to patent the E-Z handle and make it out of high impact plastic or even carbon fiber. Good invention.
Carbon fiber would be sweet!!
How much do you charge for labor per square ft(or entire job) to remove all the tiles in this case, especially you need to use this special tool? Thanks.
If you have to ask, you can't afford it! 😂 Seriously though: this type of work gets billed at my standard hourly rate plus rental cost of the tool and enough to cover extensive wear on the chisels/bits. It's hard, nasty, grueling work that I only do for certain customers who understand the cost and value of the work they're getting for the $$ they're spending.
As an armchair carpenter i’d consider using a sling. Over the shoulder, through the opening maybe.
Might be worth a try... anything to help get through a difficult tear out, right?
Yes, the type you showed with the cart, without the cart !has always been best for this kind of work, in my eyes anyway. They are not very good as jackhammers, not the power or weight. I have one somewhere, I hope not to have to find it !
It seems like renting a big powerful stand up scraper/hammer on wheels to do at least 80% of the area, leaving the remainder to do with kneel down hand held one would have saved a lot of what looks like a lot of very hard physical work.
The area is too restricted to make getting and using a bigger tool practical on a one-time basis. I felt I'd loose everything it would gain which would be more obvious to viewers if I could show more of the actual jobsite in the video.
I’ve seen bigger ones on a dolly that keeps it at angle you just walk behind it maybe make something to hold in position- feeling your pain
Like this, Bob?:
ruclips.net/video/oKJHs4lno8M/видео.html
I can see where that's a great option for anyone who does a lot more of this sort of work but imagine it would be more trouble than it's worth on smaller projects like the one I'm currently on? Definitely some pain to feel here! 😉😲
did you watch the entire video? He references those and explains why he did not use one.
Anyone know
Where place to buy concrete bits for the 1 3/4 M18 fuel?
Any decent hardware store or home center should have standard shank carbide tipped bits for drilling concrete plus SDS and SDS Max bits, depending on the type of chuck the 1 3/4 M18 has.
Chipping you don’t need a handle if you use it as a off balance tool you would dig in could be worth trying with a less dominant hand and work away rather than work towards
Before anyone says anything about working backwards off hand it is worth it rather than doing the whole job off hand because it gives the forward motion once the back is done
Hard to see in the video but wouldn't just drilling a hole where the speed control is be enough for you to adjust it with your finger?
I do think a 1- 1/4" diameter hole is all it would take and I'll probably add the hole next time the Ergo Handle is off the tool. I thought there was enough space in there the way it is but had to use a screwdriver to reach in and make the adjustment...
Looks like you covered that
Yeah... and believe me, if I thought it would make sense on this project I'd get one in a heartbeat...
Hmmmm.....it's on sale now at HDepot for $699. Is there a better price out there right now?
That looks like the current price at Acme too so I'd assume Milwaukee is setting it?
That tube looks like it could be BenGay conveniently place with the tool because after a day using that tool you are going to need some relief 🤣🛫
I am guessing that is lube for the bit! 😁🛫
I would be using a much longer bit! Too!
You could have saved a lot of time building the handle by having Chip bust up that tile!🤣🛫
Correct about the lube tube... got a good chuckle out of your comment!
Unfortunately they don't make 'much longer' bits... my guess is that they'd be use for prying and damage the chuck?
I have to believe it's more than coincidence that Chip, like many others, schedules their time off specifically to avoid hard, unpleasant work. Maybe I'm not the sharpest chisel in the toolbox but, paradoxically, I get a real sense of satisfaction from doing good 'ol grunt work from time to time...
I got one like that it goes into limp mode after 10 minutes. I wonder if anybody has a solution to that problem.
I'm guessing operator error or manufacturing defect...
Why not hold it sideways or upside down so that you can lower the angle?
Seems like a good idea that will work, but in practice it's even harder on the wrist in my experience. If you look close at this timestamp you'll see the bit is oriented sideways because I was trying out holding the tool sideways at the time, as you mention: ruclips.net/video/oKJHs4lno8M/видео.html
@@NextLevelCarpentry I wasn't thinking of doing that for your wrist as much as so that the force is directed more into the tile and less into the floor.
@@garyh4458 yeah upside down is even better than right side up and noticeably better than sideways but no matter which way it's very awkward and non-ergonomic IMHO. I'm guessing you've done your share of this sort of work because making the tool do the work with the least amount of physical effort is the key to sustainability😎
@@NextLevelCarpentry I haven't used a tool like that but I have removed a lot of tile with a big chisel and big hammer and ended up with bursitis. :) I just know that placing the chisel more parallel to the floor helped. I wonder if you could rig up something to set the tool in so that you can just roll or slide it on the floor as opposed to having to hold its weight. I agree that when using a heavy tool like that for a long time that ergonomics and efficiency are important and you might have to trade off one for the other. Anyway, just trying to share my ideas.
@@garyh4458 This is what I'd get if I had to do a lot of this: ruclips.net/video/oKJHs4lno8M/видео.html but, as it is, it's one of those things I don't want to get too good at. 🤯
You just need an angled chisel and you can have a longer one
I would use an SDs plus for scaling .. I’ve knocked up a lot of tile with my cordless Milwaukee fuel SDs plus.. they also sell a scraping blade for them that’s much wider.. you could also a go lot smaller of an sds max the 1-9/16 SDs max made by Milwaukee’s may not sound much smaller than the 1-3/4 but it’s half the weight and would eat through that job just the same all day.. don’t need much power for scraping old floor up.. the bigger ones are bigger for breaking block, concrete, and drilling. Not scaling. Seems like you’re wearing yourself out with that beast in an unnecessary situation man, you’ve only got one body, don’t break it.
You might know what you're talking about but the fact that you imply I don't makes me think you don't.
You're welcome to tweedle away with a smaller tool for a job like this but, personally, I would have used the next size UP for this job, not a size or two down... I'll give you a call next time I get into a job like this and see if you can really put your words to work.😉🤯😎 FWIW no one knows the "you've only got one body" thing better than a 66 year old dude who can still outwork kids have his age!
Can’t you also Use a propane torch? Do you have a tire with a propane torch, it expands in loosens itself from the substrate. I would just put some alcohol on the floor and light it on fire, I guess that’s why nobody hires me.
Matt, where's the knee pads? You'll come to regret it later.
part of the PPE I don't wear while shooting video...
Why didn’t you just turn the machine sideways?
I did... for awhile... until the lopsided balance made it painful. Also tried holding it upside down for a while too but it wasn't better, only different. This is the sort of thing that's difficult to figure out without actually using the tool on an actual jobsite...
@@NextLevelCarpentry we just did a 2,000 sqft house. All tile on slab. Used SDS and jackhammer on cart. Was a LOT of work. If I had to do it again, I would have laid new floor on top of tile rather than remove.
@@NextLevelCarpentry I’d like to see a version 2 with some wheels and a place to screw in a broom stick so you can push it like a lawnmower.
@@NextLevelCarpentry thought as much that you wouldn't have missed truing the obvious!
Lowering the angle of attack with an additional simple cart would definitely improve the below too! And you'll have them for every job going forward!
1)- weight distribution on wrists
And
2)- force more tangential to tiles
Great video!
Trying ***
Don't like the clutch on those Milwaukee. The name of this game is called Hilti and sometimes Bosch. This Milwaukee is TTI not even American made anymore.
In the real construction world we don't have time for this it's just a waste of time Just use the hammer drill the way it was design never had no problem with it yet
A 'waste of time' you say? Interesting perspective that lacks understanding of working smart and efficiently for sustainability over time. At some point it may occur to you that there's a difference between just working hard and working hard AND smart. Or not...
Bobby - I have to agree with your comment - You also have to consider the risk of injury due to the modification if you're passing it over to an employee to use. I think out of the box is the best way to go - I personally use Makita and Hilti - the Milwaukee looks oversized for the task!
it's not the tool that has the issue which prompted him to make this modification....it's his wrist/hand/arm. This mod was done to relieve the undue stress on his body.....the tool works the same either way. Capich?
Sounds like these guys are not old enough to understand the importance of ease of use on your body. Sure you can use a tool out of the box. But if that creates stresses on your hands and joints, when you get old you will wish you had done things when you were younger to prevent long term injury to yourself.
Time has a way of highlighting issues not obvious in the status quo...