Traditional vs Advanced Framing - Details
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- Опубликовано: 12 дек 2019
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A well-framed house Is the start of a well-built house. That’s why it’s so important to ask: are we framing on 16 or 24 inch centers? Matt is on the scene with architect Steve Baczek to dive into the differences. First and foremost, Baczek wants us to stop calling this “advanced framing,” Instead, he refers to it as “smart” framing. Every house is unique and requires best-fit decision-making. So, it’s not necessarily about saving lumber or money, it’s about being smart from the start.
And what’s some of the best advice Steve has heard from an admired building scientist? When asked: what’s the best wall I can build? The answer is simple: Put as much insulation on the outside of the house as possible.
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Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ruclips.net/user/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
I'm a truss designer in Winnipeg, MB where it gets cold. We haven't done the little 4" heel height (we call it a 1/4" heel cut) since the 80's. In the 90's we moved to what we called 'standard heel' which was typically 7 1/4" heel and allows R20 over the walls. In the 2000's a 12" heel became prevalent so that we could get R40 over the walls. Since the 2010's, we've been going with a 14" heel, and R50 is the norm now. It's important to note that the National Building Code only stipulates that you need R20 over the exterior walls, with insulation ramping up to R40 within (I believe) 4' or so of that exterior wall as you move toward the center of the truss. This means that legally, trusses in this province only require a 7 1/4" heel cut to achieve this, however the cost to upgrade to a 14" heel is quite small, therefore the vast majority of homebuilders, whether small and custom, or large tract builders, just spec a 14" heel and R50 throughout.
Gotta love Winnipeg, where the meaning of 'it gets cold' gets redefined for those who visit it during the colder half of the year. With respect from the prairies...
I'm building a post frame house. I specified a 16 inch heel on my trusses. I want a full r60 attic. R38 walls r10 slab.
Do you have any links that explain, with illustrations, what you are talking about? Thank you!
I grew up in Winnipeg and have lived in US for 25 years. We have a new house and I am happy to say that current building technology in US is every bit as good as it was in Canada when I left in the'90s. But, California wins for earthquake and fire protection.
I live in a hastily constructed rental unit in Northern Manitoba from 2004, and it has triple pane windows. They still get condensation turning to ice when the exterior temperature is below -30°C (that can last for weeks, it usually goes as low as -40° at some point).
Beautiful 24" OC framing throughout. I love how everything was so well done and so well thought out ... my only issue here has nothing to do with the building, it's almost every time you ask Steve to explain how or why he did something in particular, as he starts to explain you cut to shots around the building instead of showing what Steve is talking about. You raise very good questions that makes your audience perk up and say " Oh yeah .. what about that? and we lean in to see the great craftsmanship and the explanation but instead we are watching a panning shot of something else with Steve doing a voice over. I'm sorry to point this out when everything else is so great, but I'm a film guy and it's all about the visual as well as the explanation.
Thanks for all the great info as always.
Yeah, I noticed those too and it's very distracting. The video takes away the importance of what's being said. Either, they didn't have enough raw footage of the subject being discussed or the editor couldn't care less about what was discussed. BTW, I'm not a film guy ;)
Something you might want to consider:
When you interview someone, you are often encountering someone whose job is not filmmaking, presenting, or public speaking. Most people, even eloquent speakers or great communicators, are out of their usual element when being interviewed in front of a camera. It is relatively easy to cut out audio together into a cohesive whole without anyone noticing. You cannot do this with video without obvious choppy cuts. The solution is b-roll. It presents the interviewee and their message very well without resorting to early RUclips style jump-cuts. If the camera is showing something else when an interviewee is speaking, you can almost always bet it is to allow the editor to bring the whole thing together smoothly.
@@creamwobbly No clue what you are talking about, but jump cuts in the middle of conversation with a single camera are definitely an inferior filming style, at least aesthetically. And yes, large and profitable RUclips channels these days have way, way higher production value than they used to, and pretty much every channel that cares even a little bit about quality filming uses multi-camera set ups and b roll, just like every single television show. Early RUclips obviously was way worse kn quality because it was way less profitable, and thus saw way less investment.
I've worked for several 'smart builders' and the only thing advanced about what they do is convincing people to pay a premium for less material, a scientifically dubious increase in efficiency, and to have their walls pumped full of a potentially hazardous foam. Maybe I'm a luddite but every 'advanced' project I've ever worked on seemed to focus more on selling the concept of the process than with actually building an elegant, efficient structure. Everyone I've ever worked for that builds like this thinks they're Brunelleschi building the Duomo because someone at a trade show told them they could seem like the smartest guy in the room when they're talking to a client . Once again, I could be wrong, but I've worked for a lot of people who waste a lot of time solving problems that didn't exist by replacing them with multiple, more vexing problems.
Say what you will but I love the open warehouse for storing things/ building components, building your rooms as you want, and protection from the rain as you build. Also the extra room for roof and wall insulation.
Thoroughly agree with you Chris . I’m in Australia and the “ smartness “ is bullshit as far as I’m concerned - I’ve worked in the building industry for 40 odd years and seen some dreadful things . As you say , basically all in the goal of “ another dollar for me “ .
you are telling the truth
I salute you sir for saying something that needed to be said.
Yep
At $250/sqft I think this construction is WAY out of the price range that most people would consider affordable... that's $600,000 to build a 2400 sqft house (plus the lot, I assume). What I'd like to see is a focus on how to build efficiently for HALF that much. Show me you can build an efficient house for $125/sqft and people will take notice.
That, or you need to start talking about the cost of builds in two stages, the first being the structure and the second being the interior finishing. I imagine a lot of the cost in these custom homes is related to high-end finishing, and that is reducing the marketability of all this high efficiency engineering and architecture. If every house I see with cool "efficient" engineering is a +$1 million build it has no relevance to the general public.
Too true. And, being a builder who is trying to tool up for this sort of thing, I can say that the market for it is exclusively people with enough money to want to spend it virtue signalling. The costs of housing are already too high, and the barrier to entry too steep for most people. ( a 25 year mortgage for two people working seems like an awful lot to pay for a house)
You hit the nail on the head. We are in the process of selecting a builder and dealing with the bank, 250 a sqft wont even appraise for the loan we need. Im assuming he only builds for people with endless money and dont use banks. Id love to see Matt do a build that reasonably priced per sqft.
100% agree. It’s as if they are prepping us to believe 250 per is reasonable. It’s not.
I think much of the cost of building is in finishing work as well as the type of Windows used if we were to go back two smaller windows and exterior window covers I believe the envelope would be much cheaper
I agreed with what you said but I also believe We As Americans have gotten accustomed to homes big enough to play racquetball in.. the reality is blue color houses should it be blue colored priced.. which means blue color sized.. if there's a place that you should spend money to be economical it's in insulation the long-term 25-year or better expectations
Excellent bringing in the energy part with Steve. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, Matt. Love to see more double-wall "advanced" framing like you were showing a few weeks ago..
Very nice walk thru and explanation👍 It looks like an improvement over traditional methods. I would like to see a video on how to build a house where you don’t need to put as much insulation from the environment because it is designed to work with nature instead of insulating from it.
Double window sills are always nice for ornamental trim pieces to attach too. Interesting video
Lots of good information, thanks for keeping it around 10 minutes.
Steve is an excellent speaker, gives a great spoken "visual" of the concepts. Retired contractor, almost makes me want to get back in. Almost.
Thank you sir!!! Much appreciated
I agree, but as a simple DIY guy I don't have much of the vocabulary he's using. I would benefit more from some brief additional illustration, or text notes explains what was just mentioned/discussed.
Love the videos matt. Can't buy zip in my location Canada. Would love to see a video on what you recommend for insulation and sheathing using the most basic supplies available.
I'm a designer and builder. I love what I do, but sometimes feel interior when I watch your videos. Bottom line is I love your work, and I know I am capable of out as well, but in my market we are lucky to get the build even if we come in around 135-150/ft. I know there is the occasional exception around here, but like said in other comments, 250/ft is not affordable or economical. I'm about to start my own modest build and it will come in at I'm guessing around 85/ft. I'm doing most of my labor so that I can afford things like polyiso outside, etc. Bottom line is that this is nice, but what can you do on a real person's budget?
Totally agree. These guys make killer money. I built a home in 2010 for 74 a foot. I've never had anyone want to spend 150....and materials even higher now!!
I always enjoy learning stuff. Thanks for another great video!
I appreciate your videos just some questions on this one. Not sure why you need 2 x 6 walls in a garage that most times does not get insulated. Lvl header over a 3' window? Could have been a 2 x 6. What is the cost of the "header clip" I presume more than a stud? Is a large part of the cost the extra insulation and HVAC systems? What is the trade how long does that house/systems have to last to recoup the cost. I installed a solar radiant hot water heating system in a house that lasted 20 years but once we figured the cost of the system, not to mention just everyday issues, it would have been cheaper to put in a traditional system. Of course we got to look down our noses at the regular people. Thanks for your work
This video made the most sense... Good work
I like using 1" foam on the outside, because it goes over all framing members which doubles the insulation value in those areas, and then you can also use 2x4 framing to get your 20 r-value.
Great project! I'm curious about sound insulation between partitions, because of that common ceiling already built before framing of the inside walls. Was that considered by Steve in his design? Thanks for the video
And you should also be concerned about all the cracks in your dry wall.
Especially in the ceiling seams The only way to stop the cracking will be to remove the ALL the drywall and replace it with traditional framing.
Don't get me wrong I make money doing dry while repairs I love advance framing. The more advanced framing means the more work I have.
How do you tie in your partitions to the trusses? Is the blocking installed before ceiling
Good example of the rebound-effect, efficiency gains from insulation getting eaten by more and more floorspace.
greatjob Matt bring this architect onboard to break this eloquently into detail, i am wondering what this 2400 sq. framing job cost now (materials/labor) and then after the insulation, approx. number you think you can give? wana compare it to my new builder cookie cutter cost. thanks matt!
Interesting talking about the header pocket and jacks- our local inspectors here in Ontario, Canada won’t allow split jacks or a trimmer on the flat below the lvl headers. their thinking is faults with both pivot points and shrinking/compression of the flat trimmer.
Reminds me of a Morton building. Love the adivice on insulation!
Lots of great knowledge from Steve!
Thank you!!
Are the split cripples allowed by the local Building Codes? The National Building Code of Canada required that the cripple extend from the bottom plate to underside of header.
Its great to see the high heal truss being widely adopted. A lot of builders are starting to run their sheathing right up to the underside of the top chord then down the wall to get a very solid connection between the truss and the wall. Have you ever practiced this @ArrowBuilding?
I live in the upper Midwest where it can get very windy and bitter cold. I am curious if the ZIP-R has more than an R-12 option or if you could add a second layer of ZIP-R sheathing to increase the external insulation?
Love your videos. Longtime subscriber, and your content just keeps getting better. Awesome video
Agreed - thank you!!!
Great discussion on a very interesting topic. It would’ve been better to have close-ups of the topics mentioned. I.e. header hanger, trusses on top of studs etc.
Fair comment. We will do better next time.
2:52 - "All the studs line with the trusses up above."
No, they don't. And it drives me crazy.
The jacks/trimmers should run continuous to the header. Split jacks/trimmers introduce another hinge point to the wall and may cause issues in seismic and high wind areas.
I agree, that added header bracing looks more expensive and complicated than additional jacks
And it's just another flatwise plate to smoosh.
@@johnboy3089 The drywallers will hate it
@@johnouellet8700
I'm complete noob, but didn't they already have additional jacks? Those two in the middle aren't jacks?
Also a noob...I'm here to learn
Header hangers? LOVE IT!
What's with the 1x2 furring strips on the bottom of the roof trusses?
You guys are leagues ahead of us in the UK on timber frame!
I'm a fan of 24" framing. But one reason I keep double top plates is that you can still use standard stud lengths and drywall for 8'1" and 9'1" wall heights.
Yea, plus you end up with a continuous plate which is kind of critical in terms of transferring diaphragm shear to the shear wall - definitely helpful for the structural engineer so that you don't need to strap every splice in a plate...
That's true about the height benefit plus, that extra plate helps straighten a wall. Saves time from a framers point of view.
Regarding energy vs insulation. Most codes in US and Canada will require indoor ventilation air change of approx 1/2 the indoor volume per hour.
This means you have to heat or cool that much air every hour, except when the weather is moderate temperature.
Therefore at some point money is being wasted in overinsulating these houses.
Also attempting to make them super air tight can make them dangerous if one of the systems fail.
Can you do a video on light duty steel framing?
Love the videos with Steve!
Thanks man - stay tuned in the future - thanks for the kind words
Me too! He’s an amazing man with great wisdom.
Zip System is the best thing that has happened to exterior sheeting. Laying and applying Tyvek on a windy day was my least favorite thing to do when I used to frame.
Its a lot like being on a sailboat
I like more of Steve each time. Would love to have some engineers calculate energy savings when using this insulated sheathing outside. It's not cheap here. Would like to show clients a video that can explain just how long before the sheathing pays off and starts keeping more money in their bank..
Thank you - my mom always told me I would grow on people lol
Are the sheets of sheetrock placed in the order that they are on purpose because that is where the interior walls will land? The aligned but joints has my OCD on fire right now!
Could you insulate the roof? Like deck, insulation, deck, shingles?
As our structures advance in technology, we may find, a log cabin in the woods is the ultimate advancement.
When did the Golden State Warriors become the Golden State Hermits?
Or better a house made of brick and stone....
Interesting...I look forward to more videos like this
Question: Why don’t people use something like prosoco r guard or some other fluid applied wrb for flash and fill wall/roof assemblies instead of flashing with cc foam which costs an arm and leg even at 1”? It would be WAY cheaper and just as air, water tight, and safe no?
How do you guys nail baseboard up there? Can't tell if the bottom plate is enough for backing from the video
I have built a few houses in my day, and done several remodels including additions. I am no expert, but I don't see the savings with the 24"O.C. framing. Granted, it was a few years ago, but I think my average price per square foot for 2x4/2x6 was around $120-$135... Nothing revolutionary, mostly ply+osb sheeting, studs 16" O.C., tyvek whether, batt insl, and sheetrock. Great video but maybe I missed the point of the 24" framing. Also, I have always used a double top-plate, it's way easier to join wall corners and plumb, plus added space for wallboard attachment & top-nailing.
Yeah i didn't really understand much from the video either but what my guess was they're saying it's mostly insulation they're doing 24" oc since wood has less insulation? Anyways I'm just framing some non load bearing walls and the more I'm thinking about it it does seem silly for me at least to frame 16" oc just to hold some drywall.
Great build! Is there any concern with truss uplift on the interior walls? How can this be corrected with this type of continuous drywall system? Thanks for sharing you knowledge and experience.
Simpson makes a connector for that - I have done 100's of homes without a problem
Thanks Steve! I appreciate your response. I will look into that product.
@@tonystammler9932 google "Simpson STC" or "Simpson STCT" roof truss clips
Matt, does this type of construction transfer to regions with hurricanes as well? Ie could you zip the outside and span this far in Florida? This seems like such a great method of construction. I've followed you for some time and seen the videos where you recommend closing the house and conditioning the space during construction, do they condition this space or is it just enclosed? Also, in this build the mechanical room is downstairs so it seems like it would be simple enough to install the mechanicals before internal framing etc.
Suspect that well placed load bearing interior walls would help in strong wind conditions. This example offers little in the sense of lateral and torsion stiffness. Additionally, you don’t need as much thermal insulation in Florida. That in turn can inform an economic thickness of the exterior walls. Might be framing isn’t the best choice in hurricane prone regions altogether. Just my take as an architect, not US based.
@@HeadPack I believe most all construction here has concrete exterior walls. In my homes case, built early 80's there is stucco, wood cladding, block wall, furring strip and drywall. That's it.... No insulation. Other than air... While we don't need to keep cold pit, it would be nice to keep the heat out and cold in... :)
Yes, there would be issues. But the most important element is to get a continuous connections from foundation to roof... hurricane clips tying trusses directly to studs ... roof sheathing connectors actually penetrating into trusses rather than being accidentally offset just enough to miss them. I've seen FL houses where whole rows of roof sheathing nailings completely missed the truss below... Finally, if using gable trusses make sure they are properly braced.
Question for framers and installers. I've found 24" of space between studs to be too much when installing cabinets and shelves. Has anyone run into problems of not being to find a stud? When I gutted my kitchen I made sure to put up backers of 2x4s behind the drywall where I knew I'd be putting any cabinets. I also found putting recepticles in where I needed them was harder. There wasn't always a stud there where I needed it. I ended up doing the same thing.
Adding cabinet and a curtain blocking... You're on the right track
Kitchens and bathrooms sometimes call for 16"ctrs. for walls where cabinets will be hung while 24" ctrs. is used for the rest of the house.
Great episode. It’s good to see that passive house elements can be incorporated into a lower budget house. Are you aware of any building science focused builders in the Chattanooga TN area? I’m looking to build there in the near future and would be interested to know if you recommend anyone in that area.
I don't know anything about a builder in your area, but if you're interested in elements being incorporated at a budget, check iowanest.com. They did a great job of making a net-zero home on conventional budget. Pretty neat project.
Ask on www.jlconline.com/. I am sure someone will reply back with some builders or framers in your area. Good luck with your project!
@Joshua Ruby very nice!
This isn't a low budget house.
Matt, what's up with the 70s house? Project update, please.
It's why I subscribed. Thought he was going to do a project with updates a few times a week. Obviously I was wrong about that.
Yeah. Slow progress boys. Really started framing in earnest on Friday. New video soon! It’s about to get busy.
I build on 16 center and thats the way ill continue to do it
In europe we do 24 oc, our houses support big snowloads and we have built this way for over a hundred years.
I always enjoy your show. 😊
How does the structure resist wracking forces? I don’t see any corner braces
I'm noticing at 4:18 there's a ventilation channel in each bay that goes to the outside, is this a newer thing or is there channeling you can add while insulating that space to avoid over ventilating your house?
Appreciate the tech behind these homes but would be nice to see such tech used for smaller homes or somewhat more cheaper homes using some of tech you mention in some of those above avg priced homes.
Foam core sheathing is like using foam as a shim. The shear strength of a wall is partly due to sheathing contact with framing members. In new construction, this may not be a problem, but in time, wind loads, temperature extremes and wood movement will challenge the "through the foam" attachments. 24" on center framing is also less effective at reducing noise transmission, for the same reasons as guitars are built with minimal bracing on the sounding boards. These houses may be efficient on paper, but they have not been tested by sufficient Time and Nature to be promoted as good long term structural investments. Insects love foam for tunneling!
Funny, America is one of the last countries to adopt this line of thinking - glad we got you to sort this out for us
Great video!
Simple question: will 2x4 wall studs spaced on 24” on center on exterior walls carry the load on a two story first floor or would I need to beaf up the first floor wall framing to 16” on center?
Either 16 oc or 2 x 6 studs
Interesting idea to rock the lid before framing the non-bearing interior walls. Seems like a pain to buzz 5/8” off all the studs but maybe worth it for an uninterrupted ceiling assembly.
From an air tightness and blower door test, this approach is superior. For non load bearing interior walls, they should be using metal framing.
I literally wasn't aware that Architects have to the framing but I have still covered this topic to accompany me with this field so that when I go to University, I`ll be ahead of the others.
Steve is a top notch expert! Cheers to both of you!
Steve makes your team complete.
Above his head , the trusses are 5" away from stud risers! When video starts look at the quality workmanship.
Yeah, my boss would've lost his mind if they weren't lined up perfectly.
great vid-- guys....so i need clarification....is better for strength and savings to use a basic 2x4 stud and go 16 OC OR 2x6 and go 24 OC?....i wld think it cheaper on labor to do 24oc and the 2x6 shldnt cost so much more, thanks matt!
16 on center versus 24 on center has little to do with 2x4 or 2x6 wall framing. Most moderate to cold climates now require 2x6 walls to achieve an r21 minimum insulation package on the wall system. That's typically why you see 2x6 walls nowadays. Model energy codes getting more and more stringent as the years go by
I'm just wondering why they broke up the continuous trimmer with that bottom plate causing a point for the wood to possibly squish in the future. Also up here in canada we personally tend to put the header directly onto the trimmer for direct load transfer and simply stick the top sill between the trimmers.
How does brace wall work on a big open space like this. I'm used to using interior walls to assist with brace wall calculations per Residential building code.
Its pretty simple, its a pole barn build, One big roof and outside walls... Then build what ever you want on the inside.
Its simple and has been done for a while, people are building houses out of pole barns all the time.
I'm guessing they had stamped engineering drawings on this project. Going from memory here, by IRC 2015 you can't go more than 24' between braced wall lines. But you can do anything if an engineer will stamp it.
Nice video! Good tips.
I was wondering which ones are the parameters for the selection of wood stud framing vs metal stud framing; not on this particular project where the exterior walls are working as bearing walls, I guess in this case wood studs are the framing to use. Also, I know that for example in Florida, metal framing is a better solution against hurricanes. I wonder in regions of the country where there is no hurricanes, flooding or tornados. Is it that the use of wood framing is more affordable?...in Florida, wood framing are considered old school.
Use ICFs not wood for best strength.
@@ToddBizCoach Thank you. I will further look into that system. 👍🏻
Anyone know why fire blocking wasn't needed (required) between the wall studs? Would have been nice for them to touch on that, considering it's a common practice with traditional framing.
Fire blocking is only required between floors or at each floor level on balloon framed walls. Think separation from one floor to the next
Question, with a 24" framing layout, aren't you sacrificing shear strength?
I'd like to know where that's code.
Different states have different codes.
@MattRisinger I remember mentioning ICF and utilizing the thermal mass in the past.
And RUclips comments is the only way I know to contact you.
What do you think of using steel SIP panels as an exterior to leverage the benefits of ICF thermal mass?
I know it may not be cost effective short term, but I've been considering labor and long term maintenance / lifespan.
But I've also been curious on what you might think of the best application practices would be if practical?
SIP over ICF? No. You just go thicker ICF, so do a 10" wall instead of 6 or 8. Also consider doing ICF roof as well if you go with the thicker walls.
@@fordrac1ng81 well, what I'm aiming at is external insulation with the idea of using the concrete on the interior as a thermal battery.
Just increasing your wall thickness just increases the mass since the form thickness does not change, your just getting a thicker concrete wall.
I was looking at increasing the exterior thermal jacket.
Had to add strips for OSB on walls; ceiling Sheetrock.....how is that easier than the couple extra boards you’d use on 16 inch centers?
How would SIPs compare to the Zip R system?
I wish you’d talk about horizontal sheathing. I’ve always heard people say horizontal is “the wrong way” to put sheathing on because it’s “weaker” in the horizontal position, and I’ve seen a few of your videos with it!
Note this one is horizontally blocked at the seams. I want to say the difference when blocked is negligible. I have had this conversation with structural engineers. I will revisit it for clarification/confirmation
Horizontal sheathing is the right way and only way.. if u read the building code the arrow on sheathing is a strength axis which needs to be perpendicular to the structural members. Sheathing is way weaker vertically, i can snap it in half
Code requires Builders to default to the manufacturer specifications. Most sheathing manufacturers require horizontal installation in their specs but not all
Most sheathing goes on vertical because the blocking for horizontal adds cost, fouls up roll instalation and interferes with plumbing in 2x4 walls.
Right we’re you are holding on to the wall the studs change their on center measurements
Love the openness.
Would this style framing be usable in California with earthquake codes?
Tom Bigley no, in fact this wouldn’t even pass any building codes in Utah and most other state building codes. This is garbage! No J-bolts to attach the exterior garage walls to the monolithic pad since I did not see a foundation, you get a big enough gust of wind that garage will move.
A lot of items would fail here in Colorado as well.
That is the cleanest job site I have ever seen
I feel like people are missing a few points. 1) A lot of the stuff being done here is "cutting edge" building science. You don't have to incorporate everything they do into a build. I feel like for people that can afford it, great. If you can't, here are some ideas for how this stuff works and how you may incorporate parts of it into your build or at least understand how all of these choices impact the end result. 2) The point of advanced framing isn't just to cut down on the amount of money spent on framing. It's also to eliminate the number of vertical studs in an exterior wall. Every one of those studs (including the extra jack stud replaced by the hanger everyone seems so upset about) is a place you can't have thicker insulation. Very roughly, for a 40' long exterior wall you'd have 10 more studs with traditional framing. That's almost an extra 2' wide section of that wall insulated at only R5. These builds he's doing are higher end and all about pushing the envelope of efficiency. If you want a cookie cutter house, there are plenty out there. 3) Lastly, I get it, you've been framing for 100 years and this isn't the way you learned to do it. Guess what, we also don't use asbestos or lead paint anymore. If we didn't constantly try to improve things, we'd all still be living in mud huts.
More than anything, I appreciate the advancement of building sciences and the help in understanding how these all impact homes being built. We've got all these new materials and understanding of the physics (that's why building codes are updated) and yet people seem to be stuck trying to figure out how to make all of this new technology makes things the way they always have.
THANK YOU SIR!!! I could not have stated it better, everyone concerns themselves with negative aspects, instead of taking the learning concepts out of his. I can go about my business and not share anything, I share so that we may all get better, thank you again
I wish I could get my husband to understand this concept. He just thinks I'm stupid!
Triple glaze windows --- What brand did he use. How common and easy are they to get.
What was the logic / decision process in deciding to go from double glaze to triple glaze.
Lots of owners are going with triple glazed these days. Much better sound and temperature insulation. If you can afford it, it's a nice luxury.
There is almost zero reason to use triple glazing in that climate.
How does a hanger relieve the load from a single jack. The double jack can carry more load. So that hanger is still transferring the load to that one jack.
Been building for nearly 3 decades, this is the cheapest framing I've ever seen for the big price tag. I'm not sold on the system.
Chris Jackson same here. The true test with anything is time. Traditional framing has stood the test of time. I see a lot of problems in the future. Not a fan of zip either. The price of hiring a architect and then the slower pace of building it bc the workers aren’t as familiar with it far exceeds any money saved by material costs. Should be called low cost framing. Calling it advanced framing is misleading.
No informed person IS sold on this.
It's just for chumps buying gold watches from a truck!
If you were, I understand they have ocean front property 😉
@@mr.eastcoastgrow6132 What is the issue with Zip? Are you throwing up Tyvek and letting it flap in the wind?
I agree 100 %
matt risinger you could also put your header the other way so the wood faces the inside of the garage that way the drywallers will love you more .and your framers can put insulation between the header and the sheeting outside.
WRONG!!! Drywall does not move nearly as much as wood - more attachment means more chance of cracking. Header out please!!
i'd like to see the hvac plan for this house. judging from the video the mechanicals would be in the atic. the supplies and returns in the ceiling. as an hvac contractor with ceiling supply air i prefer return air low to the ground to avoid temperature stratification.
All the HVAC is in the conditioned basement. Supply is delivered high and returns are low
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 partion walls are few. have you considered high pressure systems such as unico.
@@tedallen9078 have used for retrofits but never in new construction
I usually enjoy Matt's videos but I would like to point out, as can be clearly observed at the 2:55 mark: the way the window header is framed wouldn't be acceptable here in Canada. The cripples have to go all the way through under the header/ lintel and the bottom plate that holds the 2, or sometimes 3 header materials together, in between to prevent future issues due to surface shrinkage.
How about some building techniques for the desert Southwest? You had a show not long ago in my area (Scottsdale AZ), but that building technique was for those with unlimited funds.
I use these concepts throughout my work in NM
@@stevenbaczekarchitect9431 In general how would you design differently in a region with a long, hot (but low humidity) dry season, followed by a mild wet season e.g. much of interior California? I've heard it recommended that more insulation should go into the roof and less in the walls compared to colder winter climates. I guess NM would be a little different climate-wise with some summer monsoon weather, and colder in winter depending on what part of the state you're in.
I’d love to know what Steve knows
Me too lol!!!
Matt: on your Build Network channel videos. The Ads could use some better tuning. Basically your ads cut in between mid-sentences, and the ad background music is louder than the video presenters. However it would more pleasant to just have your video presenter discuss the products and include links to advertisers websites. For one, your viewers are less likely to skip ads. Here is the video I am referring to: buildshownetwork.com/blogs/789
Its your video presentations that demonstrate products is how products get sold. You demonstrated Adv. Tech: I am an Adv. Tech consumer, You demonstrated the ZIP wall, I am a Zip wall consumer. Your videos get me more interested in products than any 10 to 20 sec inserted ad.
Since you have videos on Adv tech, Zip and other products link to those for your advertisers so customers can get more details instead of a 10 to 15 sec ad inserted. Most of your projects and fellow builders use ZIP & Adv. Tech so it should be too hard to mention them. Perhaps adding some text overlays at the beginning of each video listing the advertiser products used in the project. Example:
Spring Valley home (New England region).
3/4" AdvanceTech Floors
Zip walls R-6 sheating
Marvin casement windows Model ??? with U: 0.?? and SHGC: 0.??
Zip Stretch Tape for window sill sealing.
When presenting a product insert text overlay about the product being shown at the bottom so viewers can get the correct product name & model.
This way your doing in video advertising and consumers will have some details about the products.
BTW: not trying to nit-pick your methods just giving you some suggestions that I think your advertisers will benefit from.
Appreciate the feedback. Will review with my team this week!
What kind of sheathing do you use? SIPs can really increase the R value of the roof and walls. Do you duct blast your houses? If so what kind of leakage are you getting. How about a blower door test? Why don't you put a nailer on the top of the window? Seems as though you might have a hard time with the drywall in those areas.
1:53 Do not dry wall your ceiling like this, especially this size. That end seam down the middle is called railroading.
Railroading leads to one big crack down the middle of the ceiling. You stack drywall like bricks. ( Offsetting the end seams). Especially in cold regions due to weight of the snow on the roof. Trusses move with load.
I have one customer who did this and calls me every year to come and repair the gap that has cracked open. If you are going to do this doubleup the truss bottom stud and put an expansion joint in.
Also if you're putting storage above your garage use at LEAST 2x6 trusses. 2x4 trusses will not hold weight and your nice finished ceiling will be cracking every time you walk up there.
Brian is correct about truss movement W/snow load and W/ temp change. Wood is a natural substance and thus it expands & contracts W/heat & cold. The suggestion to put in an expansion joint should be code requirement. I know, my ceiling drywall tells me every year. Engineered trusses are fine to use, just install them correctly, knowing they will move.
brian b , I did see a part of the video that it looked like they put furn strips tied to the bottom of trusses! Would this in any way stop what your talking about ?
@@craigberube9890 I saw the furring strips you were talking about. Those are to disconnect the drywall from the truss for insulation value. Less conductive energy is allowed to transfer from the truss to the sheet. Unfortunately when you nail strips to a truss and then hang the rock it moves even worse. Therefore amplifying the problem..
*its called advanced drywalling*
The Real Cody Bersick 😂😂😂
Does sound travel easier from room to room when you have a continuous ceiling?
Its all going to depend on the treatment they give the seams for the interior partition walls. One could add some acoustic caulk on the top plates but well taped drywall joints will make it similar in sealing to every other typical american standard home. Except this one will actually be efficient
I'm asking because when I build homes I'm not allowed to do it this way because they say that the sound waves travels with the drywall into the next room. I want to do it this way so I'm wondering if what they say is bullshit...
@@oGcs0ber I would say the difference is negligible. The only way to truly isolate is with air space, mass, and floating rooms - i.e. recording studio construction. I can't see that being practical for residential construction. Resonance will happen through drywall and framing regardless of how you detail it IMO.
@@oGcs0ber Are you building in Sweden or the USA? Either way you may find this interesting. USG has some great resources for learning about sound control in partition design. www.usg.com/content/usgcom/en/design-studio.html
“Made In Sweden ‘))
Wouldn’t it have been much better to have the horizontal seam on the Zip R tucked up higher under the eve for less possible water penetration to deal with?
$250/SQ FT? Must be a completely different market where I live then, avg around here is like $110.
Around here its about 250$ a square foot, at the cheap end. And both builders building that cheap went bankrupt in the last year. But that's canadian dollars, and in a stupid region. I gave up housebuilding. Only millionaires can afford it, the pay for the workers is not up to par with the risks and effort involved, and the government is a bitch to deal with.
I only build houses for repeat customers, and mostly i just build industrial and commercial buildings now.
My thought too. Here in Michigan, new construction starts under $100/sq ft. A new build high quality finishes (hardwood, solid surface counters, etc) will sell for $200/sq ft.
Not a lot of homes in this area at $250/sq foot.. that's crazy
250/sqft is stupid expensive in Ohio.
Making this house close to $750K ?? Not a normal house
He is in Austin, TX, which is an expensive city. Its a growing city, especially for young professionals, but the city is very small in general and is overcrowded. And to me, idk why the housing market is so expensive there compared to other major Texas cities
With the price of lumber these days, would you consider steel framing? Does it matter if you are in different climate zones?
Steel is awful from an insulation perspective (it conducts pretty well compared to all other building materials) unless you intend to put all your insulation on the outside which will make it more complicated and expensive...
Certainly it should be an interior consideration.
I always thought "Good Bones" refers to the architecture and layout, not the framing construction, meaning that it lends well to being renovated, since little to no walls would need to be moved or removed.
I guess I learned something today.
How much to build like this? Wish you would talk about that Matt
Are they any advance framers in Dallas?!?! How much per ft does that range?
2:52 Trusses don't quite line up at least in this area...
Trusses are probably oc 16" instead of oc 24" to match the walls. Not an issue with the double top plates.
@@guytech7310 I noticed they are only off by an inch or so. I had the same thoughts with the double top plate.
Steve seems to be one of those Architects that's willing to think and design like a contractor. I would love to hear his opinions on use of light gauge metal framing instead of all this old school lumber. Exterior walls with 6" metal, (maybe 18 gauge) with the same wood trusses. (metal trusses aren't cost effective) You have R6 sheathing and using spray foam anyway. The thermo transfer through the metal should be minimal.
On the BUILD SHow!
Dis agree with the hanger instead of the jacks for windows the extra care of the 2x4 is worth while
I always find visuals to be a great way for me to learn versus text.
I been reviewing advance framing and notice almost every time its been only refer to with residential projects. I'm hoping to use these techniques towards commercial design. Some potential differences that I can see that could cause some issues on which strategies should be implemented would be cost, building life spanned, and and height of exterior framing. I imagine commercial advance framing is not discourage, but is there a reason the two aren't typical mentioned together online? If so, should certain strategies be reconsidered such as 24 O.C. studs?
Commercial framing has been historically built "advance framing", it's called a shell and the reason is that the interior can be modified as pleased by the Tennant's.
Another type of building that has been done by centuries is gambrel roof / dutch colonial.