Fuel Pressure Regulator Replacement 2000-2006 Suburban 5300 5.3l V8
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2015
- How to replace a fuel pressure regulator on a 2000 Chevy Suburban 5300 engine.
**I am not a mechanic and have no training whatsoever. I am not responsible if you follow the explanations in this video and damage parts or incorrectly install a component or cause injury to yourself or somebody else. Major engine components, such as fuel systems, should only be serviced by a qualified professional and this video is for entertainment purposes only. ** 
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A terrific, to the point tutorial, without looking at a talking head.
Thanks! Hope it helps
got diagnostics done and chevy dealership wanted to charge $273 to replace it. I just did it in 5 min for $49. they suck.
Very helpful...thanks for posting!!!
Thank you!!! Owe you a cold beer!!
Amazing content 👌
Thank you 🙌
Hey brotha how you doin today. I have a few questions is there a possibility I can talk with you about how the truck was running before you changed it?
Use a small vice to get the new fuel pressure regulator in ... You are all welcome.
🧎🏽♂️
After I installed mine, it leaked like crazy. Fuel spraying everywhere. I have the correct part from GM as well. It’s a 2003 yukon xl. 5.3. Even gave dealer the last 8 on vin. Mine didn’t have a screen though.
Chris Harris are you sure all the old parts came out when you removed the old one?
What the part number for the fuel pressure regulator
Does any know where the fuel regulator is located in a 2005 GMC Envoy SLE? I can't seem to find the regulator or fuel filter.
Fuel filter in tank in the pump assembly.
If this is a flex fuel it requires the one that has the vac hose coming out the top, higher psi than the other
I watched the first video of your voltage bouncing around. I got a 2001 Chevy Suburban 5.3 that is doing the same thing. I already replaced the alternator and its still doing it.
In the first video you said you replaced this and it fixed that problem?
+xmayhem420 Yes this helped a lot. I think I need a new belt or tensioner though because it still happens the odd time around 2000rpm
Did u ever fix the jumping around voltage ? I have new battery n new alternator n it still jumps around?
+gruiz00 Mine was a faulty fuel pressure regulator. Ever since I changed that it went away. Not sure how the two are related but it worked. Search my channel cuz I have a video on how to change it
What was the problem with your suburban
I swapped mine out today, even after pulling the fuel pump relay and letting the truck die I got soaked from the amount of pressure behind the regulator when I removed it 😬 what would cause the excess pressure after letting the truck literally run out of fuel?
Maybe if the regulator was faulty it would cause that? Other than that I'm not sure why that would happen
Happened to me when I changed my fuel filter lots of fuel still sprayed out at me evoking though I litterealy unplugged the pump lol
I have a question regarding thios because I have the 2004 4.8 Liter Chevy Tahoe. I am getting the fuel smell with the vehicle running. My issue is the 20094 and later don't have a regulator by the fuel rail.
I thought it was my vehicle so I checked my Haynes manual and it said with 2004 and later to drop the fuel tank. Is there a regulator in the fuel tank or do I measure the pressure at the rail on the Schrader valve on the passenger side and if jumpy or high or low do I replace the furl pump?
Do I need to check the injectors, check electrical for the injectors or what's the procedure?
I'd like to get this fixed as I'm worried that unburned fuel could be dumping into the engine and possibly be causing further engine damage or am I fine in that area?
ANy help would be greatly appreciated as we have snow coming and this is our 4wd dad taxi for the kids and wife in snowy weather. Thanks!
I'd try and figure out where the fuel smell is coming from first. Check all your fuel lines for leaks and maybe check some vacuum lines as well for cracks or if they are wet. If you can't figure out where the smell is coming from you need to take it to a mechanic because a fuel leak is serious
Got it figured to where I smell near the left rear wheel well and I hear a light buzz sound coming from fuel tank area. I have a fuel pressure tester so I'm going to see if the pressure is leaking down after I shut the vehicle off. If it is being it's a returnless fuel system then I've been told a faulty check ball could be the culprit. I tend to think there may be a cracked line or cracked tank also. It's the plastic tank. To bad they don't have a built in pressure test port where you could hook right up and pressurize the fuel tank. We'll see what the pressure check brings this afternoon. I'll clear half the garage out so I can get it out of the ice/snow and into a heated garage. I'll login to my alldata account as well and see what that can do for me.
Check your fuel canister, if it has one I bet u that's what it is....
@@dtnel your problem most likely is the evap vent solenoid, i had the same problem , lmk if you got it fix
I realize this is an old topic. As far as misfire goes, was it high rpm or at any rpm? Loaded or unloaded?
It was around 2000rpm under no load and misfired very bad as I accelerated from there
I have the same problem. Runs great unless I riv past 2k rpm then it starts skipping. I cut it off and crank it back it runs perfect again. Is that what yours was doing
Nope. Mine turned out to finally be knock sensors. The misfire I was experiencing actually was a ghost-misfire. Meaning it didn’t exist, and it was reproducible at 3,000rpm and higher held steady in park sitting in the driveway.
@@yosemitesamiam mine will run great. If I riv past 2k rpm it'll start skipping. If I cut it off and wait a few min and crank it back it'll run good again. Idk what the problem is
Im havinf this peoblem with the missfires above 2rpm and it dying restart is fine
Hey did you take off the fuel relay and ran the truck till it died first before doing this?
I didn't. But that will relieve the pressure in the system and minimize fuel spills
@@InDepthSonar Alright, because now I can do this to my truck with no worries.
@@realtruth97 You got it!
Hmm...trying to find why a cold start on a 2000 Silverado 4.8l Vortec is just fine, but when warm, requires extended crank. It will start, but only after about 8 seconds of crank and pre-prime. Any relation to this fix? Thanks much
any ideas ? mine is the same problem
@@vincentbanda2567 Try locating your air hose supply to the fuel regulator. Cold start should be good, but hot starts crank for ever. If you pull that line off (before a cold start) There should be NO gas in the line. It should be dry, if it is wet after driving, replace your fuel regulator. My internet search says this is a common problem, solved for $50 and you can do it. I can send you a video if you want. Good luck, mate!
did it fix your misfire?
It did to an extent. New plugs took care of the remaining problem
trying to figure out why my 2000half ton starts go first time every day and the rest of the time have to crank alot to get it to start
I'm having the exact same problem. 2000 Silverado 1500 extend cab
Please respond if you figured it out
Same here. 05 Silverado with the 4.8. Starts fine first thing in the morning but the rest of the day It will start hard. I’m also getting fuel smell when starting
@@andyjohnson5367 Same here. Did you get a fix? 2000 4.8l Vortec in a Silverado
Has anyone ever ran their vehicle without the vacuum hose and both nipples plugged? What is the purpose for the vacuum?
What causes the engine to the rpm's to run high? When the engine is started it runs at 5000 rpm?
No idea
Possibly a sticky idle air control valve. Ingot ine for my 2002 tahoe on Anazin for $70!and changed it in 5 min. Need an 8mm for the plastic “vortec” cover and a T20 torx with a swivel.
@@johnmeade4117 Thanks bro! it makes sense. I'll try it.
roger cloud I changed mine because i thought it was my issue but my problem may be the fuel regulator. When testing the idle air control valve i took it out and cleaned it. When putting it back in and testing it started and reved realy high the first couple of starts. Good luck and report back here if it works for future reference to others
@@johnmeade4117 will do.
I just bought mine , ill let y'all know if it works
LILMANlc so did it work? Thanks
I thought you said you would let us know . You lied to me
was it bucking when it ran???.
Yeah at certain RPMs it would a bit or when under moderate throttle
@@InDepthSonar ok thanks my son as a 5.3 and it stumbles when u give it gas
How do you ni if it's bad, the engine isn't get gas is this why
I'm sure there could be multiple reasons you'd know, but in my case it was just the engine stuttering at certain RPMs
What about the lock?
Lock it for sure
Anyone no why you need the regulator with the vacuum on the side an not the other one?
I think there are two versions. Put the one on that came off and you'll be fine
Flex fuel (Z in VIN) vacuum port is on top. Regular gas vacuum port is on side. That is my understanding.
There's a manufacturer service bulletin about the Chinese made fuel pressure regulator, they all eventually become annoyingly noisy, you want to get the Made in USA one.
Good to know thanks for sharing that!
Any particular place it can be found?
Uh did it help?
Yes, it did
That's not the Regulator lol. It's a Dampener. Regulator is on the Actual Fuel Pump.
Cool!
I think there are two fuel pressure regulators, one on the fuel pump and the other is on the fuel rail on the manifold.
That is definitely a Fuel Pressure Regulator on the fuel rail.
This guy mumbles
malao waalomom momounomom
@@InDepthSonar mlurp