Can't believe this worked, helped get the paint off easily! LEAVE A LIKE if this helped you out! Watch me paint this using liquid masks here: ruclips.net/video/U5RPRANd2QE/видео.html
For everyone in the comments trying to burn this guy for not just nutting up and buying a new body- Some bodies aren't that cheap. Many of them can't even be found for sale at all. I do a lot of RC restorations and have to take crappy or badly aged paint jobs off of bodies that are often impossible to find or insanely expensive when you do. Case in point: A while back, I stripped an HPI 200mm F150 Flareside body for a restoration on an old belt drive RS-4. That body (a rare factory original to the car) in new, unpainted condition with the decal sheet would be easily over $100 if you could even find one. When you're planning to flip the car, there's all your profit out the window just buying the body. For that reason alone, this is a useful discipline and a helpful video. I do wish the process was easier, though.
Luke hit it right on the head. Practice painting/stripping paint from common bodies and apply what you learn to those rarer bodies that people don’t make or sell anymore
@@110pitbike2 Hey, man. Nitro is a good, quick go-to and you'll find out if the paint was water-based. If it is, any stripper without acetone will pretty much work. Most of the stuff I do is old and nitro powered anyway, so that's not often the case for me, and back in the good old days, all the paint was lacquer-based anyway. In that case, I saran wrap the outside of the body tight and use DOT-3 with a flux brush and let it mellow for a half hour or so. Wipe with a rag, and repeat. At the very last stage, sand (mask the windows from the inside) working my way from 500 to 1000. It's an arduous process, but polycarbonate is sensitive to solvents. When you're done, the whole body is clear-ish cloudy, but with a thorough 90% alcohol wipedown, it takes paint well and by the end, you won't be able to see the cloudiness as the paint kind of fills it in. Sorry for going off on that long-ass tangent, but it's a long-ass process. That's what brought me here to begin with, ya know?
@@JacobusRC Seems like such an evasive concept for some folks. Either way, man- thanks for the info. Your approach was one of the best I've seen and I'll try it out on the next go-around. Which will be soon. I just got a killer deal on a super solid Kyosho Burns 4WD that would look so good repainted. Thinking about hopping back on the RUclips train for the resto. Appreciate you, dude.
Did a racing body shell in a darkblue cause I really like that color on real cars. Problem is that I don't see it clearly on the track. Been recommended to buy new shells but I am going to try this first since it isn't cracked. Thanks alot 👍
This also depends a great deal on the chemical composition of the paint that was used to begin with. Nitro will not even phase a lacquer. That's why nitro guys back up their water-based paint jobs with lacquer paint. Otherwise one spill and it's roached. The toughie with removing lacquer is that anything harsh enough to get after the paint will probably attack the lexan, too. What kind of paint did you use? Good video. Very scientific and methodical.
Hi. I had some bleeding of paint on my shell, after removing masking tape..grr Trying everything I watch your video,bam.all gone. I think in England,we did call it glow fuel? Long time ago. But work wonders for 😊 Merry Christmas..
And he was on the short end of the stick using the paint remover, that paper towel should have had puddles of the remover crap. But yes 100% agree just get another body for $20 damn!
If I tape around to make a sunroof opening and use fuel to remove the paint, will the fuel bleed through the tape or will it be a clean straight edges?
I tried that on the hood, it ended up bleeding a bit. If you have the patience, you can take a q-tip and work on the edges to remove the paint. That causes less bleed
Can you please say what type and brand of nitro fuel you used? I had some 15% lying around and it was a total fail. Didn’t even make a blemish in the paint.
My god! Why don’t you just use a soft brush and coat the hole body with nitro and let it sit, til paint comes undone and take it of. It could have been done in 30 mins
You were using the ELO incorrectly. You are supposed to take a paint brush, put a generous amount on the end, and spread it all over the body. You will need to keep putting more ELO on the brush as you continue to cover the body with a somewhat thick layer of ELO. Then, you need to let it sit until the paint starts to crinkle up and lift off the body all by itself. 3 minutes is too short and the paint won't have enough time to start lifting properly. You also shouldn't have to do any major scrubbing to get the paint off after it has crinkled up.
Brake fluid. Lay paper towels soaked in it over the paint, then check it every 10-20 minutes. Eventually the paint will wipe right off. Won't harm the lexan or make it cloudy
did the brake fluid alot of time on painted stuff that needed a repaint but i dont know if lexan and brake fluid is a match tho i depainted a body that way also but time will tell if the body got a bit of crispy from the tretment :)
Good video but I have an observation to share. Even after you finally read the directions on the Testers product you still didn’t do it the way it’s supposed to be done. What part of a liberal amount don’t you understand?
@@JacobusRC Laquor thinner maybe, theres also something called airplane remover I'm just shooting in the dark... you can give me the reasons those won't work... I'm looking into how to remove the paint from Losi Mini B 1/16th RTR bodies, because there is only 3 options of colour and the clear bodies are $30+ and the whole buggy is rtr $120~
Nitro is unsafe to handle with bare hands extensively and also to breathe the fumes in a small room for so long. Combine that with the paint and it's even worse. You made yourself $5/hr for all that work and risk at the end of the day. Just get a new body
Can't believe this worked, helped get the paint off easily! LEAVE A LIKE if this helped you out! Watch me paint this using liquid masks here: ruclips.net/video/U5RPRANd2QE/видео.html
For everyone in the comments trying to burn this guy for not just nutting up and buying a new body- Some bodies aren't that cheap. Many of them can't even be found for sale at all. I do a lot of RC restorations and have to take crappy or badly aged paint jobs off of bodies that are often impossible to find or insanely expensive when you do. Case in point: A while back, I stripped an HPI 200mm F150 Flareside body for a restoration on an old belt drive RS-4. That body (a rare factory original to the car) in new, unpainted condition with the decal sheet would be easily over $100 if you could even find one. When you're planning to flip the car, there's all your profit out the window just buying the body. For that reason alone, this is a useful discipline and a helpful video. I do wish the process was easier, though.
So when you do a restoration what process do you use?
Luke hit it right on the head. Practice painting/stripping paint from common bodies and apply what you learn to those rarer bodies that people don’t make or sell anymore
@@110pitbike2 Hey, man. Nitro is a good, quick go-to and you'll find out if the paint was water-based. If it is, any stripper without acetone will pretty much work. Most of the stuff I do is old and nitro powered anyway, so that's not often the case for me, and back in the good old days, all the paint was lacquer-based anyway. In that case, I saran wrap the outside of the body tight and use DOT-3 with a flux brush and let it mellow for a half hour or so. Wipe with a rag, and repeat. At the very last stage, sand (mask the windows from the inside) working my way from 500 to 1000. It's an arduous process, but polycarbonate is sensitive to solvents. When you're done, the whole body is clear-ish cloudy, but with a thorough 90% alcohol wipedown, it takes paint well and by the end, you won't be able to see the cloudiness as the paint kind of fills it in. Sorry for going off on that long-ass tangent, but it's a long-ass process. That's what brought me here to begin with, ya know?
@@JacobusRC Seems like such an evasive concept for some folks. Either way, man- thanks for the info. Your approach was one of the best I've seen and I'll try it out on the next go-around. Which will be soon. I just got a killer deal on a super solid Kyosho Burns 4WD that would look so good repainted. Thinking about hopping back on the RUclips train for the resto. Appreciate you, dude.
So does the nitro actually work good?
Wow, great video man. I heard that ELO was really good stuff but, nitro it is!
Again, great video. Stuff like this is so helpful.
Thanks for watching! Yeah I noticed ELO works better once you leave it on for awhile, but at that point you’d already be done with nitro 👍🏽
Did a racing body shell in a darkblue cause I really like that color on real cars. Problem is that I don't see it clearly on the track. Been recommended to buy new shells but I am going to try this first since it isn't cracked. Thanks alot 👍
This also depends a great deal on the chemical composition of the paint that was used to begin with. Nitro will not even phase a lacquer. That's why nitro guys back up their water-based paint jobs with lacquer paint. Otherwise one spill and it's roached. The toughie with removing lacquer is that anything harsh enough to get after the paint will probably attack the lexan, too. What kind of paint did you use? Good video. Very scientific and methodical.
Did you compare the Tamiya paint remover ?
Will it remove paint from glue together model car kits without melting or damaging or melting
the model car body?
Someone recommended nitro fuel to me to so thanks for showing me. Time to go get some now!
Hi.
I had some bleeding of paint on my shell, after removing masking tape..grr
Trying everything I watch your video,bam.all gone.
I think in England,we did call it glow fuel? Long time ago.
But work wonders for 😊
Merry Christmas..
Wasn't the Tamiya Paint Remover available at the time of making the video? Barely used 30ml for 4coats. Beats dot3 brake fluid too.
DOT 3 brake fluid works so much faster. I wouldn't spend however much fuel it costs. Might as well buy another body.
And he was on the short end of the stick using the paint remover, that paper towel should have had puddles of the remover crap. But yes 100% agree just get another body for $20 damn!
Can’t buy another body if the shell is really rare!!
If I tape around to make a sunroof opening and use fuel to remove the paint, will the fuel bleed through the tape or will it be a clean straight edges?
I tried that on the hood, it ended up bleeding a bit. If you have the patience, you can take a q-tip and work on the edges to remove the paint. That causes less bleed
No body warp?
Quick question. What transmission are you running on that? I have a rustler and a mid engine would be better then the rear.
early model of the Nitro Sport/Nitro Rustler chassis
In a RWD car or truck, the rear motor setup works really well because it keeps the weight bias over the drive wheels. Just like a full size sand rail.
How did the body hold up after it was repainted? I did on old body with break fluid 😬didn’t hold up to well
Yeah brake fluid tears it down, this one still holding up today 🤙🏽
@@JacobusRC solid🦾
Can you please say what type and brand of nitro fuel you used? I had some 15% lying around and it was a total fail. Didn’t even make a blemish in the paint.
VP power master
The paint was probably lacquer, nitro fuel wont do nothing to it
Does this work on rc wheels ?
😎👊 very helpful vid thanks!!!
After nitro fuel, do you need to prep the pecan before repainting?
Just wipe it off as best you can and you’re good to go
My god! Why don’t you just use a soft brush and coat the hole body with nitro and let it sit, til paint comes undone and take it of. It could have been done in 30 mins
I noticed that when you leave nitro on for too long it causes some hazing on the lexan body. Plus I wanted to see how long it would take me 😂
You were using the ELO incorrectly. You are supposed to take a paint brush, put a generous amount on the end, and spread it all over the body. You will need to keep putting more ELO on the brush as you continue to cover the body with a somewhat thick layer of ELO. Then, you need to let it sit until the paint starts to crinkle up and lift off the body all by itself. 3 minutes is too short and the paint won't have enough time to start lifting properly. You also shouldn't have to do any major scrubbing to get the paint off after it has crinkled up.
I used industrial paint stripper. It certainly took off the paint......and dissolved the plastic 😂
That’s epic!
Yeah🤘🏽
Will paint thinner work
It may destroy the plastic i dont know for sure but check if its plastic safe
@@Ovesundbergh ok thanks
@@nickwilliams6869 Yeah man, I've seen it work, but causes some cloudiness
Acetone will delaminate lexan on contact....DO NOT USE IT.....
Nitro for life hahaha
#nitrogang
Nitro to the rescue this time 👊🏽
If you do this I would say do it out side so your not high on gas ⛽
Brake fluid. Lay paper towels soaked in it over the paint, then check it every 10-20 minutes. Eventually the paint will wipe right off. Won't harm the lexan or make it cloudy
did the brake fluid alot of time on painted stuff that needed a repaint but i dont know if lexan and brake fluid is a match tho i depainted a body that way also but time will tell if the body got a bit of crispy from the tretment :)
@@extec101did it get crispy?
@@keldonator yes it got crispy and cracked faster then usual.
This left a white fog on my lexan body.
Try nitro fuel
@JacobusRC Well too late the body was ruined and it was a hard to find body that TBG hasn't made yet
Good video but I have an observation to share. Even after you finally read the directions on the Testers product you still didn’t do it the way it’s supposed to be done. What part of a liberal amount don’t you understand?
How do you the nitro will remove factory paint?
It will, but it takes a lot of scrubbing with pressure since they cake it on real good
Er. You are not using the ELO as described even after reading it again.
Test carsons rc paint remover
Thanks for sharing, looks good might be worth a test vs. nitro
@@JacobusRC Would be cool to see! :) Nice video
Plus other ones too.
why not just dunk the whole thing?
Try acetone...😐
Holy shit.
Nitro my be more expensive than a body
I found something that work way better no effort at all, and would get into all the corners without scrubbing.
Shoot what is it
@@JacobusRC Laquor thinner maybe, theres also something called airplane remover I'm just shooting in the dark... you can give me the reasons those won't work... I'm looking into how to remove the paint from Losi Mini B 1/16th RTR bodies, because there is only 3 options of colour and the clear bodies are $30+ and the whole buggy is rtr $120~
Nitro should do the trick, no clouding at least
Typical RC,
“I found a trick”
What is it bro?
Que “sound of silence” Disturbed
Nitro is unsafe to handle with bare hands extensively and also to breathe the fumes in a small room for so long. Combine that with the paint and it's even worse. You made yourself $5/hr for all that work and risk at the end of the day. Just get a new body
for around $20 JUST GET ANOTHER BODY FOR CRYING OUT LOUD!
Worth a shot haha
Hard to find the vintage bodies for sale these days, like the mid 90s Rustler trophy truck
Just buy a new body.