Should You Caulk Around The Bottom Of A Toilet? Pros And Cons! | The DIY Great Debate!
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- Опубликовано: 5 апр 2022
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On this episode we are going to FINALLY settle the great argument on Should You Caulk Around The Bottom Of A Toilet? Pros And Cons! | The DIY Great Debate! Stay tuned!
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As a code inspector for thirty years, its was required for sanitary purposes. If not caulked you had an area that could not be cleaned and could be full of bacteria. Years ago we always used white grout to set them and I still do.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and expertise! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Grouted silicone is the best option. Looks like grout but works like silicone caulk, cause it is…
@@JohnCap523 Thanks, didnt know this product existed
Odors.
@@polocash11 Peeyu
I was taught (by a plumber) to caulk -BUT- leave a 1" gap in the back so if the wax ring failed, you would be able to tell, while still having a cleanable area around the rest of the toilet.
This is a great idea.
Yes Exactly l concur
I'm going to not caulk based on this insight. Thank you
@@Thorgard360 Dustin caulk it. It is cleaner, keeps the toilet seared firmer and just looks better. Just leave that 1" gap at the back so if the seal leaks it will be evident. Good luck.
Nonsense!
Caulking also prevents fouling in this area. If mop water, tub water and/or urine gets underneath the toilet, there is no way to clean it up.
In my house, it drains around the flange cutout into the dirt of the crawl space. Different locations will be different... for an upstairs toilet yours is a good point!
@@flagmichael Ewe
@The Man Install the toilet correctly and you won’t have to worry about it. It’s not rocket science.
calking dries out, cracks and will get nasty around a toilet, however if you use Silicone it is designed to be used in areas that get wet. Calk and Silicone are 2 different things that people seam to think are interchangeable words but each has it's own condonation, such as I often say cement when I see concrete, cement is just one of the ingredients, not the same thing.
@@lordreginaldfilibuster Really? Semantics. There’s all kinds of caulk, including silicone caulk…
I learned to caulk around the toilet so running a mop to clean the floors wouldn't push a bunch of moisture underneath the toilet.
That is awesome feedback! Thank you for sharing 🙏🏽😊!
That and piss too
Two points: 1) To prevent movement, I've used rubber shelf-liner as a [cut-to-base-form] coaster instead of caulking; and 2) I've caulked the base in homes for especially the elderly and/or disabled individuals because caulking will prevent accidents of liquid discharges (i.e., urine) from seeping into base causing bacteria build-up and odors over time.
They make toilet shims for that exact purpose
The main reason to caulk in my opinion is my toilet is next to a very busy shower. Tons of water was getting under toilet especially when dogs were given baths. So I did exactly what you did, but preferred the clear silicone.
Thank you for the informative and helpful feedback! 👍🏽😊
Clear silicone yellows over time and looks unsightly.
I’m about to do clear but worrying now it may get yellow or gunkey over time. How’s your held up?
Lol wow I read some of the comments! As a journeyman carpenter I can say that if the flange is installed correctly on a soiled surface. The toilet will not move. Any flooring should be installed underneath the toilet so that the seal will be a tight seal. Adding silicone caulking around the toilet is just cosmetic! #facts
Yep, caulk is quite flexible and will not stop a toilet from rocking. At best it might ‘cushion’ the rocking of a poorly set toilet so you don’t realize that there is a problem, and set you up to pay the price for it later.
I just learned the gap trick after years of homeowner toilet replacement, it gives you the caulked look but still allows water out for leak detection, brilliant.
That is nice and neat. For newbies! Please tape it, then caulk and use Acetic acid silicone. In Australia it's a rule! You can smell the vinegar like smell and it goes off very quick. Mold resistant.
Installed new toilet in my house 15 years ago . Caulk is still on my to do list.
Thank you for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Oh, so you have a habit of not finishing the last 20 minutes of the job?
Thank you for the informative video. I chalked mainly to prevent rocking to stabilize my concrete and tile floor. 👍
That is awesome feedback! Thank you for sharing! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Thanks for the video. It echos a lot of what I've read online, but I see lots of people saying sealing with caulk is in the IPC, but it's simply not there. It only says that the fixture must be sealed to be water-tight with the floor, and that's what a wax ring and the bolts do. See section 405.5 on installation.
I agree with you 100% on this video...I've often wondered about this....but, you have now made sense of it! Thank you!!
I used silicone caulk to glue the toilet to the concrete and tile floor in an old installation where the bolt anchor on one side had had been stripped loose. I also sealed the bolt holes to assure a firm non-wobbling seal. Worked great!
Same and never even used bolts
I caulked around my guest bathroom toilet several years ago and have never had any problems. I even dyed it to match my dark flooring. Turned out great!
How'd u dye it?
@@mrs.conscious put it in a ziploc bag, added wood stain drop by drop until I got the right shade. (I was worried it wouldn't "harden", but haven't had any issues in over 8 years.)
Fact check... If I replace my toilet myself, which I have done. I do not need, nor will I ask my local government what I can and can not do in my home. 👍👍
I replaced old tile with lvp that was thinner. Afterwards the toilet didn't sit on the new lower floor. so I built a spacer for the foot of the toilet to sit on and then caulked around the spacer to make it blend in more
I have boys and urine gets under the toilet base. I clean my bathroom floors by getting on my hands and knees and cleaning every square inch. Urine collecting around the base drives me CRAZY!!! I clean as best I can and put dry pieces of paper underneath to try to dry it up and I have considered caulking but didn't know what would be the correct kind of caulking and the correct way to do it. THANK YOU SO MUCH for your video!!
Wow, this video popping up clearly indicates my phone is listening. Great explanation and example of the caulking process, the only thing I would clarify is in regards to the caulk. Most silicone caulk from big box stores is gloss finish. I prefer a matte finish which presents a better appearance. Thanks
Same here! Had to replace wax gasket under my toilet & discussed caulking around it with friend who was helping me. Don’t believe in coincidences! This video showed up after we talked about the caulking.
A possible consideration especially if you have kids. Another reason to caulk around the toilet is to keep outside water from flowing under the toilet. You sometimes have kids splashing water from the tub onto the floor or out of the sink and it could flow to under the toilet if you don’t caulk it.
As a plumber of 40 years I never caulk my own personal personal toilet for several reasons the first one is if you develop a leak between no flange and the toilet you may never know as the water will not leak out from underneath the toilet it will actually kind of back up and leak into either your crawl space or through the ceiling below and most times that leak was created because either the toilet flange has worked its way loose cuz it was not properly restrained to the deck below or the closet bolts for the toilet have worked away loose and if the toilet is caulked down you may not notice the movement that you would if that's the same toilet was not caught but in the end it is a personal preference
Even if you don't caulk it can still leak and show no signs, and still track to other places causing damage or rot, this design of seal hidden is begging for issues regardless, sealing in wet areas especially around toilets are for many reasons, preventing ingress of urine and water from washing the floor etc, hygiene is top of the list in this area
Good idea for 90% caulking around toilet base to prevent water infiltration from outside, stop wooble and improve aesthetic look. Un caulk area will help to know water leak from inside if any.
Thank you for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Great presentation! Clear, even cadence and rythm, very well done! Thank you
Thank you so much for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
On my last one I used white grout instead of caulk, it added a little strength to the assembly plus the sealing properties.
I have noticed that in Spain the cheapskate builders do not always fit a labyrinth seal leading to ingress of sewage from under the pan if there is a blockage downstream and also provides access to your property for cockroaches to enter. If you find unexplained bugs not too far from your toilet, check you have the seal fitted. It pays to check.
I am old school and worked with a plumber in a large city many years ago. We would place the toilet where it would be going, outline the area, remove the toilet and use plaster around the entire base. This gave the toilet a smooth base to rest on and prevented dangerous bacteria from getting and living under the toilet. Most flanges were not sealed around the floor so if it leaked it would go down the side of the flange anyway. Properly installed, I don’t remember ever having a leak. The plaster made a solid rock free surface for the toilet so the gasket had no strain from any movement.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and expertise! 😊
Solder the flange properly and throw the wax gasket on. Anything else in NY will fail inspection. No plaster, caulking is done after inspection passes.
This is interesting thanks for sharing this tip.
Plaster also collects bacteria then stores it.
Yep, old school plumbers always set in plaster or in grout. Bowl would never rock. If it did time to reset bowl.
I always wondered why they are not caulked. I thought it's the norm. I just had a toilet replaced, after replacing the floor with a vinyl tile. Seeing the toilet on the new floor, I was tempted to caulk. And I thought I better check, that is how I ended up here. I will do just what you did. Thanks, great job with your pros and cons. Excellent video!
Its in our national plumbing code. Your toilet wasn't caulked because the guy was cutting corners and/or didn't want it to look sloppy because he lacks the skills.I bet your toilet has a wobble to it.
In most codes it says you cannot completely talk around your toilet however however if you leave an opening in the back so if there's water underneath it air can get in there or you can see the water leaking then it's legal and safe
Thank you for your feedback and sharing your knowledge! 🙏🏽😊
Damn i cant talk around the toilet since im not that small lololol.
Yes,thats the way I learned about caulking the toilet!
That is pure BS dude. No code says to leave a little space in the back. As if water will always flow that way?
If the floor is tile then you'll know its leaking when the grout around it turns dark
If its vinyl you'll likely never know unless the water can discolor the flooring, otherwise it will hang out around the flange and get out through any gaps.
And sometimes water can just sit a fester for years under it without causing any damage.
The Universal Plumbing Code is THE Code book for plumbing in the US and there is no place within its pages that says you are prohibited from cailking completely around your toilet. If you want to insist that it does, it would be extremely easy for you to post the Code reference number you are referring to. I look forward to seeing that. There are codes that specify that plumbing fixtures must be sealed, not the other way around.
Great video, thank you. I will be replacing the flooring around my toilet and probably replacing the toilet altogether as it's not very good. My floor is completely rotted out from years of leaking. And leaving the gap in the caulking was an awesome idea. Thanks for posting this video!
I’m glad I could be of help! Wish you the best on your renovation 🙏🏽😊👍🏽!
As a plumber for over 20 years I can’t believe we are talking about this. Do you realize if you don’t dap around your toilet the only thing holding your toilet in place are two toilet bolts that are NOT MEANT TO SECURE THE FIXTURE TO THE STRUCTURE. The dap will solidly adhere that fixture to the ground so it will not move around when you get up and down. Toilet bolts cannot be cranked down super tight or they can break out of the newer abs flanges.
I would like someone to tell me what plumbing code says you shouldn’t dap around the toilet?? Not dapping around the toilet is a sure sign that whomever installed it was not a plumber. If you don’t like the look of white dap USE CLEAR CAULKING!! There are no logical reasons not dap. Think about it, if you don’t dap because you are afraid you wont see a leak you are in turn creating the perfect situation for it to actually leak! I guarantee you the toilet will have a 500% greater chance of leaking without dap.
Thank you so much for your thoughtful and thorough feedback! This comment deserves to be pinned 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
I always caulk!!35 years in plumbing!
The man does have a point, Cletus!!!
Lmao. I guarantee you dap ain't securing a damn thing....like at all. Now if you're talking plaster or something like that then yeah but a thin bead of caulk does nothing.
I do remodeling and I do some plumbing and sometimes I hire a pro plumber. The same plumber I been using for 20 years he doesn't want it caulked>>>> I caulk it after he leaves
I always use pure silicon caulk to set a toilet and help keep it from leaking. Or you can not use the caulk so when it does leak (because you didn't use the caulk) you'll be able to see it! Brilliant strategy.
I always taught to calk the bottom of the toilet before you install it, Looks nice and still makes a water proof seal.
I use door shims to level toilet and than caulk it no problems. Great video.
Thank you for the feedback! 👍🏽😊
Jimmy I agree with you. Install
shims to level and cancel rocking. I have found a person can cut discarded plastic lid to fit shape of toilet wherever a shim is needed. Then caulk. Leave the back open for drainage escape.
As well a master plumber my self and yes the toilet is held down by the closet bolts,which then the flange bolts holds down the toilet to flange down,then the flange itself is supposed to secured to the floor by screws as well The caulk is more for guys that don't have toilet shims to level out toilet and get it from rocking as well.On concrete I hate guys that use just the glue joint on the flange to secure the toilet completely nothing instead of using tap cons and/or other anchoring bolts or screws.Do for me anyways I don't caulk toilets unless the floor is way out of level and is sitting off the floor quite a bit and on the account of using toilet Shims as well.Also, if u caulk,only do the three sides and leave back of toilet unshimed on count of if the toilet ever should have a leak from wax ring,this way you can see the leak from the bowl or a way for the water to escape and not find this out A year from now where water has gotten between your sub floor and your vinyl or tile floor is dry rotted and needs to be replaced.Then time to pull the toilet fix floor reset, toilet.Fix floor and reset toilet again.Just my 24 yrs.in the field.Goodluck!!!!
Thank you so much for sharing your experience and expertise! 🙏🏽😊
Sounds about right to me. Always secure toilet flange to floor, especially the side to side fastener holes. I use rubber wobble wedges to level & remove rocking. I always do a dry fit, as well as check floor for level. It sucks when you install a brand new toilet & the tank lid is not parallel with the top of a chair rail above it. I've had to silicone wobble wedges to the underside of the tank lid as well, to make it look acceptable.
I just fixed my toilet and had go further than expected. Had to replace the cap to the waste pipe along with 2 bolts and a new wax ring even though I got the bolts bought first with wax ring. Put the wax ring in and at this point I was still using the old bolts, put together with the old bolts but they wouldn't stay secure while tighten the nuts down. Therefore everything back off and now replaced the cap to the waste pipe witch worked great to secure bolts and the nuts witch have now stayed in place. Before starting everything I cleaned the shi* out of the tile floor & I have a (sub floor that's durock, cement board) which works great for a new tile floor. My father (85) disagreed about putting sealant, went without and 4 months later so far all is well. This video changed my mind and I have decided to add clear silicone for my sealant and leave an inch gap in the back. Clean the tile floor best you can before you add your sealant if you decide to add it. Good luck with your choices 👍.
Great advice giving the water a place to escape just in case, if not the whole subfloor could rot out. 👍🏻
This sure seems to be a contentious subject! My couple of cents worth. First, wax rings/toilet seals leak because there is movement between the toilet and the pipe/flange. That movement is really the important thing. If a toilet rocks no amount of caulking will help, so get your toilet mounted properly to begin with. The most common cause of toilets rocking in my experience is that the flange is too high. The flange is too high because it was either installed wrong in the first place or because the house has settled and the plumbing hasn't moved with it. In either case the only solution is to fix the basic problem. Your toilet must sit flat on the floor without any rocking before you install the wax ring. If it doesn't you are going to need shims or grout or an entirely new floor before you can get a solid install. If a toilet has leaked in the past you may have rot that is causing sagging (just dealt with that at my mother-in-law's house). You have to fix the base. there is also a problem with floors that flex. A lot of manufactured homes don't have a solid enough floor to keep them from flexing under local weight. Even a tiny bit of movement is enough. The toilet may sit flat on the floor and be properly installed to the flange, but if the floor flexes you will eventually get a leak. This usually means some additional framing to reinforce underneath.
Note that none of these things have anything to do with caulking or sealing around the toilet. The point of sealing around the base of the toilet (or any other fixture) is to prevent water from getting in from the outside. Toilets near tubs where there are small children are subject to a lot of water on the floor. I've seem several where I suspect the damage to the floor is from that source, since the toilet seal was still sound but the floor was rotten.
The presenter talks about the caulking stopping rocking, but really, all it should stop is wiggling along the plane of the floor. Even with tight flange bolts there is tremendous leverage that can allow the toilet to twist slightly while still in a flat plane, that is the movement that caulking should stop, it basically glues it to the floor.
Personally, I will always caulk around my toilets to keep water and debris out, and I will make sure they are set properly so that they don't need to be caulked for stability.
I'm glad 😊 you didn't have anymore to say. One sentence would be enough
Well said. You covered everything. 👍🏾
No shit
@@brucegibson9639 correct, this method makes sure no shit can leak in.
More time removable and malleable caulking rope is a great alternative
In almost 40 years I have never seen a seal break except when the toilet moved. Therefore, logic tells us to do what’s necessary to keep it from ever moving. Keeping it clean is a no brainer, a client once thought her seal was broken but it was something foul that got under it (you can guess) and upon getting damp would smell. I prefer a bed of grout where possible. The 1” gap in the back is a sign of someone weak in their belief, my toilets don’t leak.
Grout is a pain to remove
Thanks for answering my question about what to buy, can’t wait to do it, thanks for your info 😀
No problem! Thank you for your love and support! 🙏🏽😊
That's what I always advise my customers to do as a plumbing sales representative. Thanks for share.
There are two major plumbing codes which require caulking around the base of a toilet. These codes are not always enforced, although some home inspections will mark it as a necessary home repair. The two codes in question are:
International Plumbing Code (2012 edition), Chapter 4, Section 405.5 states: Joints formed where fixtures come in contact with walls or floors shall be sealed.
Uniform Plumbing Code (2009 edition), Chapter 4, Section 407.2 states: Where a fixture comes in contact with the wall or floor, the joint between the fixture and the wall or floor shall be made water-tight.
Opponents of caulking claim that the wax ring already performs this job, while supporters believe that the ring is insufficient for proper compliance. If the wax ring IS leaking, caulking can trap the leakage out of sight, where it will damage the floor. If the floor is uneven, a good argument can be made for caulking to help stabilize the potty, so that it doe not rock and break the seal.
Please note that neither of those two codes specifically says you must caulk the base. It says be sealed, be water tight.
These 2 codes are irrelevant in regard to how a toilet is plumbed. And its actual refetence
@@noneofurbusiness1464 tell that to a plumbing inspector. 🤦♂️
I love it! A guy gives hi opinion, cites his sources and paraphrases what the sources say - and some troll dazzles us with his ignorance and asserts plumbing codes don’t matter.
Caulking around the toilet is mandatory in most jurisdictions ( I know..I’m a plumber ) it’s to protect from stagnant material and or moisture and smells… sanitary reasons in other words…leave the very back uncaulked to allow for leak detection
If it's installed correctly how's it going to leak?
ive never met an inspector enforce caulking.....they might try to rock it and thats it....if its solid good to go...
If you aren't caulking 100% then why caulk at all? I've had to replace a few subfloor due to rotting from leaking toilet. If it's mandatory you are violating the code by not caulking 100%.
@@ronmcallister7054 you just answered your own question...no caulking you catch the leak it rots everything...
Caulking should be done after 3 days to a week after installation.
Then a final inspection and clean the toilet base and floor with rubbing alcohol with a piece of paper towel. Wait few minutes then apply caulking sealant.
But most people can't wait.
Very informative video. Thanks!
Very nice presentation and thanks for sharing.
It was my pleasure! Thank you 🙏🏽!
A couple of things...before caulking put something that has some weight to it on the toilet before and during caulking. Keep the weight on the toilet for at least 4 hours or so (even longer as longer will be better) When one sits on the toilet, it naturally will go down a tad and the weight on top will help simulate this. Good to leave a little bit of a gap or open spot as was demonstrated in case moisture including condensation does get under the toilet it will have air to dry. I once lived with someone (I won't say if it was a relative or roommate) who was large and couldn't pushed up with their legs to stand up and they would pretty much fall when sitting down. They would move the toilet bowl despite it being fastened down extra tight. If the bowl didn't move the area around the holes that bolted the toilet to the floor would crack the porcelain around the bolts. She was too heavy for her legs. This person would push against the toilet to stand up. Adding the caulk helped the toilet stay in place as well as putting something for this person to push up with with their arms....I just put it there one day...and they got it!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 👍🏽😊
I always set the toilet on a plaster of Paris. This keeps the toilet from rocking, provides a solid base for the toilet to rest on, and makes leveling way easy. Its easy to trim away before the plaster sets too.
Thank you sharing!
I've done that many times but will still caulk it for sanitary reasons
No you don't
I have always caulked (this from being someone who worked on construction). Prevents water and condensation getting in and damaging the subfloor. The idea of a water leak under the toilet no having release space make sense. Our practice on a new toilet was to install it and shim is if necessary, but we waited for a few days to make sure the seal was OK before caulking. If your toilet is not level use shims first to stabilize before caulking.
I think I am safe to write that here in UK 🇬🇧, we apply sanitary sealant to fix the toilet pan to the floor and a further final sealant at the base to stop water egress going under the toilet pan with the building inspector pulling us up on it.
The bolts most of the time gets dirty and corroded. So I am not a fan of not caulking around the base.
Concerning leaks being hidden when the base is sealed, it really depends on the toilet. Some toilets have the waste hidden behind porcelain pan. I don't like installing these as it's difficult to tell if you have fitted the toilet tightly to the waste pipe.
There is more of a chance that water will get under the toilet from an overflowing toilet, sink or splashing from the shower or tub, rather than a toilet leaking internally. If the toilet is installed correctly everything would be fine.
Since the chances are more than likely coming from other fixtures...caulk around the toilet.
I wait a few days after the toilet is set before caulking to make sure the wax ring doesn't leak. Then I clean, disinfect, dry and caulk to prevent pee, water, grime, etc. from getting under the toilet and smelling.
"Dollis Scheele"- Sounds like you and I are of the same mindset.. I also went a step further after the toilet was mounted by sliding several pieces of newspaper thru the slight gaps between floor and toilet to get them close as possible to the seal. Then waited a month to see if any water marks "stains" or signs of moisture appeared onto those pieces of newspaper. (The properties of newspaper makes it an ideal moisture indicator even long after the moisture has since dried off.) So month later pull out the paper pieces and check them over for moisture marks.. No marks,.. good deal, then go ahead and seal around the base.
BTW.. when it comes to pulling up a toilet that has been sealed with caulk, most cauked ones seem to have let go by that time, either caulk from floor or the base of toilet so they lift up freely once the bolts / nuts are removed. If not be sure to cut the caulk thoroughly (try a flexible blade knife, multi cut saw (oscillating type) with a knife edge blade or two-hand-saw it with a tough fine wire such as a piece of piano wire.. before tugging your way to the chiropractor or pulling up the flooring unintentionally.
I like the idea of leaving the back or some portion of the perimeter un-sealed when caulking as it would allow the space under there to breathe. I hate mold and that is one of those mold inviting spaces... Hmm what could I put in there to keep mold at bay??? Say... Is paper money highly mold repellant? After all.. we tend to put alot of money into bathrooms don't we? -Just kidding!
@@craftsmanbyheart I like the newspaper idea. Thanks
Thanks. Short but informative. Great video!!
Thank you for the feedback! 🙏🏽😊
Didn't seem short
I always calk around the bowl with mould resistant silicon by sitting the bowl in place and marking the floor with a pencil. After removing the bowl again, I run a bead of mould resistant silicone around the inside of the mark. A 4-5 match sticks placed on the floor when applying the calking stops the bowl from sitting directly on the floor there by giving the bowl a cushioned pad to sit on. While the silicone is still wet I set the bowl in place and clean up the excess. Not having the silicone pad when mounting on a hard surface like tile or concrete can put pressure points on the porcelain leading to cracking. In Australia our bowl to floor connection is a 4” pvc tube about 6 inches long with about 2” protruding out of the floor. It’s fitted with a rubber seal along its length with about 8 or 9 rings or lips in it. On the bottom of the bowl there is a neck that drops down into the seals and that it. This will allow minor movement without leaking. The biggest problem with not having a good seal is allowing sewer gas back into the room but if you’re worried about not being able to tell if there is a leak then leave the back of the bowl un-calked. Also, if you use the anchor bolts to pull the bowl down to the match sticks the toilet is usable almost immediately but if you can leave it a week or so until the silicone cures you don’t need the bolts. Cheers Stuart 🇦🇺
I have toilets on 3 levels of my house. In the basement I caulk around 90% of the toilet like you showed. On the upper two floors I do not caulk at all because there are rooms under each toilet. I would rather have water on the floor in each of these locations than have leaks accumulate under a sealed bowl allowing water to work its way down to the ceiling of the room below it. Thanks for an informative video.
Thank you for sharing your situation and your feedback! They does make a lot of sense to not caulk on the second floor! Thank you for sharing! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Not a really good reason not to caulk if you have your toilet drain done properly no water should go out on next floor even if it leaks... That is when you have bad contractors jobs !
This is what I do as well. Leave a gap or two to see if there is a leak. I had one house where the sub floor had to be partially replaced at the toilet due to unseen leaks. After that I always left a gap towards the back and possibly one on the blind side of the toilet.
Thank you for sharing your experience and feedback! 😊🙏🏽
Thanks for doing this. I was unsure whether I needed to calk or not. So I didn't do it. I will be doing this since I know the benefits.
Best to apply caulking is after 3 days to a week of usage after toilet installing and final inspection.
Great video, Thank You!
Thank you Grant! 🙏🏽😊
I could give two ,you know what's about "code" lol! My toilets are caulked! There are a plethora of reasons why I caulk around my toilet but, the main reason is hygiene and preventing odors!! We have small children (grandchildren) and the occasional "friend" or "friends" who ,let's say don't have good accuracy when peeing! So I don't want urine to get under the toilet and stinking up the bathroom! I'm really shocked knowbody is willing to talk about this! Lol! If I ever go to sell my home and the inspector has an issue with caulk around my toilets I will simply remove said caulk and go on with my life! 🙂
I set my toilet’s with tile grout. Rubber seals. No callbacks or issues. 👍
Thank you for sharing your technique! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
I do it same way.I do not like caulk because it is flexible and a heavy person can force down around bolts and break it. Grout distribute all the weigh evenly around the seat base
finally!
I really like that idea. Grout is much easier to work with as well. Thx for sharing.
As a contractor of 35 years, if I am able to seal the floor around the flange, so that an overflow wont hit the ceiling , I leave an opening in the back when caulking the toilet.
If I can't seal the flange, the bowl gets sealed to the floor, any flange leak will be apparent on the ceiling/room below.
On a slab, leave an opening in the rear.
I found doing a small beed inside the bevel first works really good. The bevel is there so you can keep the caulking flush with the base of the toilet. Keep the beed small enough and smash in there. You can go back over it the next day.
Less is more when talking about vaulking. Especially if your a painter. If you can put a 6 penny nail through the spout of the caulk you made your hope too big and cut too much off.
There's an old saying... "When you are a hammer, everything tends to look like a nail." From a pest control perspective, I know that pests like termites, carpenter ants, roaches, and so forth, tend to like water sources. So, you are doing it right by leaving the area behind the toilet uncaulked. If the toilet develops a leak at the seal, then you want to know about it. If you have wood floors and they become wet and soft, that is exactly what carpenter ants like. Subterranean termites like water sources too and, in slab homes, they will find their way to a leaky toilet. Lord knows that it is very common to see the pipe penetration unsealed, offering a perfect place for those guys to come up for a nice drink. Of course, the downside to leaving that area open in the back, from a pest control perspective, is that it offers a wonderful place for roaches to hide and breed. That being said, leaving it open also offers a perfect way to apply pesticide into the opening. So, from my pest contoller's eye, I think you got it spot on correct. Well done. Great video. I enjoyed it. 👍👍
Thank you so much for offering your wealth of knowledge and experience for this topic! This comment deserves to be pinned! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
and if you have concrete floors with a clear coat finish?
I totally agree, but in my area you will not pass inspection uncaulked. If no inspection, at least leave it uncaulked along the back edge for leak detection.
@@user-yr4os6jz4r I don't think that would make a difference. From a pest control point of view, caulking around the toilet, except for the back, makes a lot of sense. Of course, from a pest control point of view, not caulking at all is okay too, but I think this video did a really good job explaining why you should caulk. So, for me, I think this is how I would recommend doing it for all types of flooring.
I hope that helps. Be well my friend.
@@GuysPestSolutions I didn't calk around my toilet on concrete floor. I grouted it. Same thing with bathroom sink top.
Excellent information
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Great tutorial. Thumbs-up and subscribed.
Thank you so much for the love and support! 🙏🏽👍🏽
I like the chalk look. Good info.
Thank you so much for your feedback! 😊🙏🏽
In my experience in my opinion the best way to seat and seal around and even under the toilet on a concrete floor or tiled floor is use regular flooring grout underneath and around the Baseline of the toilet itself this will help level the toilet and also seal around the base line preventing water and moisture from building up mold and mildew that could lead to damaging the the floor and even the balance of the toilet itself. If you use the grout properly it can work to a great advantage and last forever and looks so much better than caulk. One of the worst things I think people can do unfortunately is a trend in today's market is to have wooden floors or even vinyl wooden floor look in a bathroom. Water can seep underneath the vinyl flooring and literally rot out the subfloor if the subfloor is wood and if it's concrete it can cause the vinyl flooring to warp and peel up and even discolor Plus also cause mold issues. That's why it's almost vitally important to use tile products or even marble like water sealed products which is another good way to use the grout again to level the toilet secure the toilet of course still using the toilet bolts and wax seal for the toilet drain making sure not to over tighten toilet bolts using grout underneath the toilet and around the Baseline is most effective in keeping the water from seeping underneath the tile and affecting the subfloor whether it's concrete or wood if it is wood subfloor it's good to use a water-resistant membrane before putting down the tile much like the same membrane you would use in the shower installation itself. This will save you from so many headaches in the future. And will also help eliminate unwanted funky smells in the bathroom. That often come from urine mold and bacteria. It's always a good idea to try to think practically and long-lasting rather than just what's in fashion.
Amen to that.
When you first drop the toilet into place, it may take a few hours to compress the wax ring to the final thickness. So, I mount the toilet, wait overnight, check for leak, retighten the bolts, and check for wobble. If it is clearly stable, no need for caulk. I end up caulking most along the front edge, mainly to prevent rocking when a person sits on it. I leave the back open to more quickly expose leaking if the toilet leaks in the future. The caulk is more there to provide a solid flat base so the toilet can't wobble and mess up the wax seal. I've heard that some put vaseline on the bottom lip of the toilet so the caulk doesn't adhere as well to the toilet as it does to the floor. That way the toilet is easier to remove later, with less chance of damaging the floor.
This is why I have been using the Neoprene toilet rings. You can set the toilet, pull it off and lean all over it while you're setting it. Waiting overnight? 33 years in the trades, that's a new one!
@@billysyms5761 I see your point, Billy. Not possible for a pro.
Great video. Thanks.
I like using clear chalk , blends in better .👍
I am a 41 year retired master plumber and a 13 year retired plumbing inspector and I can tell you that the most accepted plumbing code in America is the Uniform Plumbing Code and it requires that the toilet base be caulked. The reason, aside from the sanitary aspect, is that condensation can occur under the toilet and leak out onto the floor. I have never heard of a code requiring you not do it.
Agreed! However, I think the issue is about the ease and aesthetic application is more of the challenge and--- when this area is neglected. As a realtor ready service, it’s one of the first places to repair/reapply.
Sometimes the floor is uneven and the toilet may "rock" on the floor esp. when heavy people sit on it. This can be esp. true with tile floors.
Thank you for sharing and the feedback 🙏🏽😊
The subfloor around my toilet was mildewed but solid. I used a full 50 lb bag of leveling cement to remediate the floor before installing new vinyl plank. The toilet is (literally!) rock solid.
shimming is not caulking
Thank you, I have just subscribed to your channel. I have a very small amount of damp leaking from the back of one side of my toilet, I wanted to check if this was actually coming from the underside and put cleanoing powder all around the base - it got very damp in just that side so I suspect it is leaking. My first thought was can I simply caulk it myself (I am retired and try to economise when I can) but after seeing your video, I will call a plumber. I have a basement apartment and it has tile flooring throughout so I'm not sure I should be too concerned about the leak, however I don't want to take risks with hygeine and a possible buildup of germs. Thanks again.
A plumber friend of mine who installed my new toilets laid down a bed of plaster before setting them. This sealed everything and let the toilets sit level. This was really essential especially on the lower level concrete floor that was uneven. After it dried he put a bead of silicone caulking. They've been in place now for a decade with no issues.
That's the old school way of doing it. Most people don't do that now since there's better ways of doing it and plaster helps bacteria and mold grow. You're fine as long as you don't have leaks though.
If you want to keep the floating look you can caulk with a black caulking pushed narrow back into the gap (none on floor or on the toilet itself) this will give the appearance of an empty space (floating look) but also provide a seal/adhesion from toilet to floor. In order to keep a space for possible water leaks , leave an opening along your caulking bead (at the back, just like in video). Great video as , toilet stuff is not our main business but it is part of our business. Cheers
Thank you for sharing your advice and feedback! 🙏🏽😊
I have ALWAYS looked at caulking as needing to be darker than what it is going on. Lighter caulk tends to be much more visible...and tends to not disappear over time. Darker seems to blend immediately and even more so as time goes on. Obviously this is for unpainted caulking. I think the way you describe it is the best. You dont see anything..and you dont have to touch it up with a tool or finger. If it cracks...you cant see it anway.
@@rogerwhiting9310 black and brown caulking is underrated” and the second run of caulking is too.
@@BlossomPainting I agree 100percent
I am pro caulk although I have switched from white silicone to clear silicone. You should be shimming your toilet with plastic shims to level and support. Also, use the foam seals instead of wax rings. The foam will not leak if the toilet wobbles. Don't use latex caulk. Use silicone. Use rubbing alcohol or windex to clean up the excess wet caulk although silicone caulk isn't for beginners.
Always leave the back free of caulk. Plus it's hard to get the caulking gun at the correct angle to apply caulk in the back.
Speaking of caulk. Get yourself a decent caulk gun. You can thank me later
You should have switched to latex caulk, a much better alternative, it cleans with water and its adhesive quality is outstanding. Most caulks designed for Plumbing "finishes" are latex based.
@@vanhattfield8292 You are on crack. Silicone is far superior. You just can't be a rookie when you use it.
My toilet bowl is next to the bathtub is my kids bathroom. My kids seem to get a lot of water on the floor and the water seeped under the toilet and rusted out the flange and bolts. I replaced the flange and bolts and caulked around the base of the toilet to keep the water out. Was a little worried about it but you made it seem it is OK. Thank you!
I always used a quality bathroom caulk that has something in it to prevent mold. Have cast iron pipe to toilets in my house but do not only want to depend on any pipe to secure toilet.
Thank you for the feedback! 👍🏽😊
I haven't read the 700+ comments but if anyone hasn't mentioned a disadvantage for caulking around porous surface is that if you replace the toilet with a different profile, the old caulk can discolor the flooring leaving a visible caulk line from the old toilet, this is why I prefer tile flooring in baths.
Side note, I would also consider caulking the baseboards too, that will give a nice clean edge as well
Sorry Bill, The Plumbing Code doesn't care if you replace your toilet and it leaves a mark on the floor. The purpose of the caulk is to prevent bacteria growth and dirt from collecting around and under the base.
Plumbing Contractor for 32 years
@@michaelsparks6084 The Plumbing Code doesn't care about aesthetics, but your client/homeowner/wife might.
Homeowner for 48 years, and advocate of ceramic/porcelain tile floors
@@mikebutler5172 In fact The Code does care about aesthetics Mike, The Code specifically states that you will perform your work in a craftsman’s like manner. The code also cares about The Health and Safety of The Public.
It's not only a sanitary issue, it also keeps the toilet from wobbling and breaking the seal of the wax ring. If the seal is broken, there's not only a potential for fluid leaks, but also a possiblity of sewer gas seeping into the room. For a toilet on vinyl flooring, I use caulk, on tile floors, I use grout.
Thank you for sharing! 👍🏽😊
I've seen a few comments mentioning the grout but for my understanding grout is not waterproof and eventually wears a way that's the purpose of using a silicone. But again I'm not a professional it's just how I understand it
Like other commenters, I have generally used a plaster bed to provide a firm level base for the toilet, which I think is advantageous on a tiled floor. But first I have taped down a sheet of grease proof baking paper (cutting a hole for the outlet!) so that the floor is not marked or stained by the plaster. Everything trimmed neatly once set. Does it work? Don't know, never had to remove one yet.
My number one advantage to caulking is to keep roaches from living inside the basin or getting out from underneath. No. 1 disadvantage is if you have multiple people in the household and the sewer pipes gets blocked, removal of the toilet take extra effort in order to use an auger.
I like the toilet augers no removal needed
I guess a disadvantage would be if you replace the toilet at some point into the future you will have to scrape all the old caulking off . . . Or if you do have to complete a toilet gasket repair, you have to remove the old caulking . . . Not much of a disadvantage in my opinion . . . But you did ask! Lol
Thank you for your honest feedback sir! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
What I do at my homes is, I will pour some water by the flange to see which way it will go, then when I caulk I do what you do and leave the back free and then I will leave about 1/8 to 1/4 free from caulk where the water ran to, sometimes I will leave 2 spots free so the water has a place to go and tell if it's leaking
I usually judge what to do based on what the floor is made of. I finished a basement bathroom with poured concrete subfloor, Porcelain tile and waterproof mortar, and I caulked around the toilet because water wasn't an issue with the flooring type. Then I refinished an upstairs bathroom where the subfloor was actually MDF. On that one I did NOT caulk because I wanted to know if the toilet ever leaked because of the properties of MDF.
Guess it's just a judgement call.
If concerned about ring seepage when caulking use a toothpick at the back to leave a tiny weep hole in the caulk in the back as a sign of weepage.
Thanks for sharing.
Allowed to? NOBODY is gpoing to tell me if I am ALLOWED to caulk around my toilet EVER!
Ive seen this done in so many houses, and the subfloors would rot out around the flange because leakage around the wax seal would just sit behind the caulk and soak into the subfloor and mold and rot instead of drying.
Thank you for your feedback! 😊🙏🏽
My brother u nailed it! This is why i dont caulk.
Interestingly, if I had called around the entire toilet, water would not have gotten in from behind the toilet.
One of the toilet bolts was loose, the bolt that secures the tank onto the bowl. This dripped for months and we didn’t even notice, because who looks at the bolts on their toilet?
In short, I caulked around all of the toilet base to ensure water on the bathroom floor would not enter underneath the toilet.
This helps with overflowing bowls when children are still learning that toilets can overflow and they have yet to learn how to prevent such events.
If installed correctly they never leak
And leaving it uncaulked will prevent that? By the time you notice water coming out from under the bowl the floor is long gone already. It leaked in the first place because the toilet was uneven and rocked and leaked. Ever toilet in my house that was uncaulked leaked and the floor was gone and water never leaked from under the toilet. Half caulk the toilet jus like the video and you have absolutely no argument.
Funny topic, but so true! Curious , what percentage of toilets do you see where the securing bolts are not cut to height and the little white caps are left dangling on top?
Awesome tips thanks
I have been doing plumbing work over 20 years and I highly recommend not to caulk toilets. If you have small leak by the time you find it it may caused damage or it will be mold or other bacteria living on the floor. Most plumbers dont advice the use of caulking.
Thank you for sharing your advice and experience! 🙏🏽😊
that and when you do have to pull it the floor will come up with it....ive had tiles come up even after cutting the caulk..
@@workingshlub8861 It sure does, I recently replaced toilets in my house, and the vinyl came up with the toilet base. Not a problem, I kinda knew it would, and floor demo was imminent anyway, but good advice for those toilet novices. You hit that nail on the head shlub baby.
Recently removed an uncaulked toilet off a broken flange. Owner complained of persistent smells. Noticed the wax seal was either installed poorly or was eaten away by a family of cock roaches. Seems like they snuck under the toilet and nested in that space. I will always be caulking the toilet from now on. Thanks
Wow! 😯 Thank you so much for sharing this info! 🙏🏽😊
If it was roaches I guarantee you they didn't get in because there was no caulk. But have at it.
@@jerometruitt2731 lol exactly what I was thinking
Im definitely get some
Nothing worse than leaving it bare, I am constantly cleaning the floor with a toothbrush, ewww! Buying the calk tomorrow, wish me luck!
code.... it's my own house, i do what ever i want! 🤣
Truth 🙏🏽😊! 😂
Good luck with that. IF it is against code you have no insurance
Egg Zack Leeeeeee
There can only be one King per castle, and the Council is only a servant.
@@emanuelsommar7243 Redland City Council actually doesn't have a single qualified plumber, on their payroll. So what would they know?
I really like your videos and I appreciate the time you put into them; however, having replaced many old toilets (and the subfloor around them) I can say unequivocally that you should never ever caulk around a toilet. Your method of leaving an un-caulked section in the back is no guarantee that it will leak in that particular area, the wax seal may be intact in that area, you could have a leak and never know it. In older construction rarely is the floor perfectly flat providing a nice level base for the toilet to rest on so I use waterproof double sided tape to level it out. In any event, if at all possible and accessible all plumbing should be inspected at least once a year for water tight integrity. Yea, get in that crawl space and check it out!
Thank you for the feedback brother and you do bring out a great point!
This is true but water will find it's way too the back eventually. So I still chaulk the fronts and the sides.
You are spot on brother! Caulking a toilet to the floor is BS!.
@@rainmaker3700 You probably don't have little kids then ha
Caulking around the toilet does a few thing; prevents pee from getting under there and smelling. Helps the toilet stay put in case someone rocks it or stands on it. Leaving the back open is a good idea because if you see water, you may be lucky enough to remove it and fix it before you lose the subfloor. It’s also recommended by inspectors
To caulk around toilets here in my area.
Good topic, thank you.
Thank you for watching! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
Hola Senor great video 👍👍 Thanks
One compromise I do to get almost all the advantages while avoiding the one disadvantage you cite is to caulk but leave a small gap in the backside so that if the toilet seal leaks then you can still see it -- but 95% of the perimeter is sealed to avoid outside-in penetration of dust, bacteria, minor water on the floor, etc...
I do exactly what you said here. Perfect compromise.
I do actually what you do! Leave an area in the back uncaulked … but like everyone has their opinion on it
Calking ensures stability (prevents rocking) and makes it look better (since most floors are uneven and there are gaps). I recommend to use clear silicone call ( it is opaque when dried).
I always caulk, but leave a small opening 10 mm in front AND back so water leak has way to escape either from front or back.
The way you did ( not calking in the back) would not work if your floor is sloping towards the front of the toilet.
But ... counting on opening to let water out is probably futile as other comment pointed that flange is not sealed, and water leak most likely by absorbed into around cracks around flange.