Sewing Victorian Combinations From the Met || Making Some Frilly 1890s Underwear
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2024
- This video is the beginning of my Foundations Revealed Competition Sewing Journey in which I make a pair of Victorian/Edwardian(?) combinations inspired from those famous ones from the Met. I hope I get everything done??? But if not I'm still going to make every single one of these videos so keep your eye out for them. I took a lot of my initial research from Bernadette Banner's combinations video and did a lot of similar things but also did a little more digging so there are some points on which I disagree on methods or information, however, it's all in the name of discussion and being excited about learning. I definitely respect her and her research, I just thought it'd be interesting to extrapolate more, so this isn't trying to roast her and I hope it doesn't come off that way!
For my Foundations Revealed entry I'm taking the 'what would a character from a book' wear and making an outfit from Holly Black's "The Cruel Prince". Specifically I'll be making Jude Duarte's dress (and accompanying undergarments) for Prince Dain's coronation. While Jude is described as wearing ‘modern, human world’ undergarments to the shock and confusion of her fairy classmates, and I could probably argue the use of historical undergarments away, this gown is worn to the coronation for the next fairy king, and I feel like Jude’s fairy stepmother would insist that even the humans at the coronation should dress appropriately so they don’t ruin their family’s reputation. That's where these combinations come in! They are the layer closest to the skin, and thus the first piece to be made. Though it's a fantasy novel and who knows what faeries wear under their clothes, for fun and historical experimentation's sake I've decided to try to make these with techniques that stay... semi true to historical methods. As you'll see there are some changes to the process along the way along with some unearthing of methods described differently in each of a few sources.
In this video I go over choosing a source and reading critically into the information, puzzling through a Victorian pattern, fitting combinations from two different pattern sources, dyeing lace and cotton fabric, cutting strips of fabric super precisely, what is a French hem and how to sew it, plus how to attach a lace rufle to your French hem, how to sew insertion lace, more fitting of garments, threading ribbon through beading lace the super fast and easy way, and some pretty (and hopefully demonstrative) b-roll of sewing handworked button loops.
Videos Referenced:
Bernadette Banner's "Making Some Frilly Victorian Underwear || 1890's Combinations" - • Making Some Frilly Vic...
Flat-Felled Seams - • Copying Patterns from ...
Met Combinations - www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
Victor Prouvé's The Bord de Rivière au Printemps (Riverside in Spring) dress - / 1106335887468756995
Skip ahead:
0:00 Intro
2:40 Patterning
3:39 Making Mockups
5:33 Mockup Fitting
9:57 Dyeing Fabric and Lace
14:18 Check In
15:59 Cutting Fabric
20:33 Prepping Lace
21:04 Hand Sewing Felled Seams
22:15 French Hem
24:14 Sewing Lace
25:40 Fitting the Bodice
28:08 Attaching Ruffles and Stroking Gathers
28:38 Sewing Some More Lace
32:32 Threading Ribbon Through Beading Lace
33:11 Hand Worked Button Loops
35:52 Reveal
36:35 Outro
Books and Articles Mentioned:
"Edwardian Combinations Part 1" by Astrid Piepschyk - bit.ly/3q62VaJ
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques - bit.ly/2XGqmvr
Voice of Fashion - bit.ly/3q5rpB4
Manual of Needlework and Cutting Out - archive.org/details/krl00366374
Lippincott's Clothing for Women - books.google.com/books?id=g6BA...
Materials + Tools:
Cotton Lawn (or some other light cotton)
Insertion Lace (Mine was 4" wide and I used about 8 yards) - www.etsy.com/shop/designourlife
Beading Lace (around 1" wide and I used around 6 yards) - www.etsy.com/shop/beautyfabric
Silk Ribbon (Whatever fits into your beading lace) - www.etsy.com/shop/SewVintagely
Fasturn (for turning tubes or threading ribbon through beading lace) - found on eBay - these are no longer made but are easy to find on eBay!
#costube #foundationsrevealedcompetition2021
Insta: / minjalinjee
All music is from Epidemic Sound:
"Remnants" - Gavin Luke
"Nadir" - Gavin Luke
"Alabaster" - Arden Forest
"African Violet" - Arden Forest
"Pretty Little Moments" - Airae
"Dark Taupe" - Arden Forest
"Impressions of You" - Gavin Luke
"Sentient" - Gavin Luke 
Хобби
Speaking from the perspective of someone who has made and worn drawers from the 1840s-1860s styles, all that extra fabric in between your legs is so that the drawers overlap to cover up the split opening when worn. The bunching around the thighs/crotch in your first drawers indicates that the thigh area of the drawers needs to be lengthened -- the open crotch seam falling about 3 inches below the actual crotch is a good starting point (which is what your second drawers had!). You are absolutely correct that there should be a "dip" in the front crotch seam and a "hill" in the back crotch seam -- that's what gives the drawers enough room to cover your butt without adding too much extra fabric in front. The saggy butt is a must (and yes very unflattering haha) so that they don't feel constricting when you sit down. You did a really great job analyzing period source material for creating these.
Oh yeah - and undergarments were definitely sewn by machine. Embroidery, buttonholes, and other finishing was done by hand, but machines were generously employed :)
thank you so much for the in depth feedback! I had figured part of the issue of the first mockup was also just that it plain didn't fit me, haha, so thank you for confirming my suspicions; maybe some day I'll revisit that pattern and fit it properly 😊 It was a lot of fun and very interesting trying to interpret the sources without the knowledge that they probably took for granted, like trying to solve a puzzle!
Eyelash lace - I avoided it because...bleeeuugh...it never occurred to me to just cut off the hairs! 😂
Giving us your thought process all along the way is inestimably useful. Thank you! The blue turned out to be gorgeous, by the way - I'm so glad you dared to dye it all.
thank you! I'm glad you found it useful haha sometimes I feel like I'm rambling a lot 😅
The combinations turned out beautifully! I love the color and the lace at the bottom specifically is just so stunning.
I noticed you mentioned your dress form being too long for the torso, I would suggest looking into making a custom dress form. Bootstrap Patterns has a custom pattern for only $24. I've seen a lot of other people make them and they look accurate to their specific body shape and size. I personally haven't made one yet but it's my next project.
Thank you! I actually meant the form that the original combinations are displayed on, she has much taller shoulders than I do! I've padded my own out so that the waist falls at the correct place, but I have been very curious about the Bootstrap Pattern! I'm about to move so maybe I'll try it out once I'm settled into the new place 😊❤
I was looking for a video on making bloomers and I found you! You are such a talented young lady. Your garment came out so lovely, right down to the tiny little loops for your buttons. Now I am going to have to try to make a garment like you have made. I hope I have the patience to even try it !! I can't wait to see how the rest of your garments look. I am 72 years old and you, my dear, have inspired this old lady!!!
Ah wow thank you so much! I'm so glad you liked the video and found it inspiring! If you do make it I'd love to see it, do you post your work online anywhere?
Omgosh that’s so cool; designs from over 100 years ago 💪. I’m entranced by all the techniques you used with the lace, and the tool used for inserting the ribbon
the thing I used for the ribbon is called a FasTurn and you can use it to turn fabric tubes or thread elastic too, it's literally the biggest time saving tool I've ever used for sewing! Looking at and figuring out pre WWI clothes is so interesting! Clothing used to be made so much more durably and with much more detail, it's very cool 😊
These combinations are so lovely!! Great work!
Thank you so much! ❤
I think youre absolutely right in the back part of the pattern! This turned out BEAUTIFUL
ah thanks haha took some working out
Looks great and a beautiful colour
Lovely job. ❤️ Define toy feel you on the short torso. My waist is only 1 1/2 to 2” to my upper upper hip.
This video, and your combinations, are just lovely! ❤️
Thank you so much! ❤
This was so informative! I’m working on the Agnes walker pair right now and I’ve just sort of. Resigned myself to extreme crotch volume ahahahhaha
They turned out so beautiful! Love the different kinds of blue :)
thank you so much!
Very beautiful! I mean you, the cat and the drawers! Lol!
Haha thank you so much, I appreciate it! I'll tell the cat you said so too 😋
Hi new friend! Just wanted to say the weird wrinkles from the first pair are from having the waist too scooped. The wrinkles add to where the issue is caused by. Since there wasn't tension where they were sewn at the crotch, it was the waist. if you had picked those stitches and allowed the outset to fall they would have gone away. also you are correct with that's the line for the front and back of the drawers. there isn't a separate piece as BB did. Good job. these are pretty.
Hello! Thank you for your comment!! I eventually came to the same conclusion after fixating on it for weeks afterwards haha, if only you'd come along sooner 😋Nice to meet you and hope you stick around! ❤
This is my costume related page. I’m in my infancy is posting videos but I’m hoping to start putting up more soon. Feel free to message me if you have any questions if you’re needing advice.
I have an original pair of combinations . Maybe I’ll do a video on them. They’re just stunningly perfectly made.
obligatory hello fellow ohioan (I'm assuming judging by your sweatshirt). So glad I found your channel! I've been working my way through your videos and I really love how you show your trial and error! You're a great teacher!
ah yeah I grew up in Ohio! thank you for watching, I'm glad you like the videos!
Your videos are so beautiful and soothing, definitely subscribing (and not just for the kitty content)!
P.S. Does your cat actually enjoy cuddling? She looks like my aunt's former cat's doppelganger and that one was a hellbeast.
Aw well thank you! She does not like cuddling haha but she loves pets and belly rubs and she likes to sleep on my bed in her own dog bed at night! The cat bed was too small for her lol she loves to sprawl out
The combinations came out beautifully, I love the colour choices.
Thank you so much! Im so happy with how the different shades of blue go together, I'm glad you like the too!! 🥰
I just found your channel and I am really enjoying the soothing quality of the sewing parts. The hand held camera parts made me a bit dizzy, but it's also great to hear how you are working out the proportions and fit details.
thank you for the feedback! I should probably do my talking to the void on a tripod 😅 i hadn't even thought of it before your comment!
So beautiful!
thank you!
Very pretty 😀
Come for the sewing content, stay for the cat content. 😻
This is my attitude for everything in life
Quality cat content! I still have yet to make a pair of combinations. I might one day. For now I tend to just make shorts/bloomers and a chemise. I had fun watching your journey (and some confusion)
this was my first pair!! I think it was a fun thing to make once but I think I prefer separate chemise and drawers, more versatile!
@@moth.faerie I think they looked great, and the dyeing you did turned out really well :)
@@kieraoona thank you!!
SO pretty
thank you!
I think its because traditionally the combinations are left open in the crotch. That's why it's bunching.
I love your videos and the garmdnt you make. I wonder if you could just speak a little slower or not cut out so much between phrases in editing? Said with love.
UNDERWEAR...NOT SUPPOSED TO BE FLATTERING...NO ONE SEES IT. FULLNESS IN THE MIDDLE...BECAUSE TRY USING THE TOILET WITHOUT FULLNESS. YOUR CROTCH IS TOO HIGH.