I Made a Victorian Corset from an 1876 Pattern || Inspired by the Met's Maison Leoty 1890's Corset
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- Опубликовано: 28 июл 2024
- I've been kind of obsessed with the Met's Maison Leoty corset basically since I saw it, so this is my second (but definitely not last) attempt at making the late Victorian era corset. The pattern I used is from De Gracieuse, and was published in 1876, but I made some adjustments to it in order to match the shaping and pattern pieces of the 1890s style corset.
This is the second video in my Foundations Revealed 2021 Contest series. For this contest I am creating an outfit for Jude Duarte, from Holly Black's Folk of the Air series, specifically the dress she wears to Prince Dain's coronation in the Cruel Prince. I love to make projects larger than necessary so I'm also sewing all of the undergarments, including this corset.
In this video I go over understanding a Victorian pattern, cutting and shaping synthetic whalebone, setting grommets, how to insert a busk, and generally show the process for how to make a corset.
Maison Leoty 1890's Corset: www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...
De Gracieuse Pattern: geheugen.delpher.nl/en/geheug...
Jess's Instagram (my earrings in the intro were made by her!): / renegadecouture
Books Mentioned:
Corset's and Crinolines - Nora Waugh: bit.ly/3ocpEko
Materials + Tools:
Synthetic Whalebone: www.farthingalescorsetmakings...
Busk: corsetmaking.com/corset-busks...
Aviation Snips: www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N5KQ/...
Skip ahead:
0:00 Intro
0:50 Corset Inspiration
1:03 Prior Attempts
2:04 Patterning Options
2:38 Interpreting a Victorian Pattern
5:27 Assembling a Victorian Pattern
7:07 Burn Testing the Fabric
8:23 Assembling the Busk
9:35 Thread Tracing Boning Channels
12:00 How to Corset Boning
13:59 Installing Grommets
15:08 Fitting
16:23 Ribbon and Lace Finishing
17:31 Reveal
17:46
#costube #foundationsrevealedcompetition2021
Insta: / minjalinjee
All music is from Epidemic Sound:
"The Forest Grand" - Trevor Kowalski
"All That You Will Be" - Gavin Luke
"Alabaster" - Arden Forest
"Remnants" - Gavin Luke
"Act Normal (Instrumental Version)" - Megan Wofford
"Sentient" - Gavin Luke 
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It's such a nice silhouette, and I love how the stripes accentuate the shape! As someone with a very athletic build and super short space between ribs and hips, I'm also very jealous of the shape you are able to achieve! ...if I get anywhere near that silhouette, it will be all Padsville, baby!
Ah thank you so much! Haha I feel like we all want what other people have, I definitely wish I was more athletic looking a lot of the time :p When I'm not wearing a corset though, the space from my ribs and hips looks much shorter, I think the lower waistline on the corset and the lifted bust really helps with elongation! Padding is a def a good solution though, I think next corset I pattern I'll take padding into account so I can match the Maison Leoty corset closer since the cups look larger and with more projection than I've made mine
That’s a whole mood Shannon
@@Ora_Lin Padsville, population: ...2?! ;-)
@@ShannonMakes make that 3
OMG thanks for sharing about the pattern you used! i was looking for a pattern similar to that corset you recreated!
Np! Glad it was helpful!
I love the blue combinations with the striped corset. The note about a tight back and loose lower abdomen is useful. I am also short waisted so I've wondered about how corseted would work.
Thank you! lifting the bust up definitely helps visually elongate the torso, and I've found that widening the hipspring helps in feeling less like my torso is being physically, forcibly lengthened like it feels in standard corset patterns
Wow this is so beautiful, I love the combinations as well. I like seeing corsets not made with coutil, I didn’t know that it was okay to do that for the longest time
Bit late. Those patterns on one sheet are still used a lot in Europe. I like it because it saves me space. And they come in very affordable magazines. Having not to “rader” them onto pattern paper is such a luxury 😂
Ah now I’m at the part you say it’s Dutch. I’m from the Netherlands and we simply just only get the raderbladen. As we would call the pattern paper things.
Lovely corset, such a nice shape! I really like the blue lace trim as well.
thank you! i was actually on the fence about the lace on this one haha so thank you for the positive feedback!
Lee-Am makes this exact model, it’s stunning! 😍👌🏻 1870’s model. ☺️✨
So inspirational! I love your description of excavation the right pattern pieces from the original. I'm working up the courage to make my first corset ever and the silhouette of yours is just perfect! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you so much for such a sweet comment! ❤ I'm so glad it was helpful, I'd love to see yours when it's done!
I wish I had costuming enthusiast friends near me in real life 😭
But online content will have to suffice and I’m super glad I found your channel!
So pretty, I love them both together!
thank you so much!
This was really awesome I just bought bonding and I think I'm almost ready to make a corset also, seeing that the pattern was on top of it self is making me feel a much better I was getting really anxious about that ❤️
Ah well good luck, I'm sure it will go great! I'm glad you found the video helpful, and if you have any questions once you get started please don't hesitate to ask!
Super helpful 👍 ❤️
Sooo pretty!
Thank you! 😊
beautiful!!
Thank you!
this is beautiful!!!
Thank you so much! 💕
Adorable 😄
thank you!
Hola muy hermoso gracias por enseñar desde México una fiel seguidora espero sigas poniendo sup títulos 😀😊
“Let’s light it on fire”
always the most exciting part of sewing
It’s pattern crosswords!
haha my bf said it's like doing a puzzle but crosswords is definitely more accurate!
the corset is amazing--what a beautiful silhouette! what kind of waist reduction can you get comfortably? thank you for posting--love your videos!! :)
thank you so much! this one actually has very little waist reduction! maybe an inch? but i can reduce down maybe about 3" comfortably, then 4" for a short amount of time 😊 i'm really squishy haha
This is gorgeous. I so want to go to a school to learn how to do this. Alas maybe in the future. The kitty and sewing content is superb. Do you have any tips for a beginner when it comes to making corsets?
Thank you! I think one of the most important things in making a corset is to have good materials. Everything is a lot easier if you have the right fabric and boning that suits your project. The other big thing is precise sewing! That was one of the biggest issues a lot of the undergrad students had while I was in school - their patterns would be good but their sewing wasn’t super precise so their fit would be off. Aranea Black has a lot of great short videos on her Instagram and tons of free patterns, I would start there if you’re looking to experiment and just get a feel for things first! Oh also always use more lacing than you think you’ll need! It always sucks trying to get the thing on when you can’t get it loose enough
awesome! to speed up bone cutting process, i highly reccomend a dremmel for filing the bones, it's shaved at least an hour of filing time for me!!
thank you for the suggestion! i unfortunately have really bad depth perception so joining two things in the air is a lot harder for me than scraping something on the table 😅
@@moth.faerie haha that’s fair! The wonderful thing about making corsets- there are so many ways to go about every single step, we all find what works for us !!😄 I looove watching people make corsets on RUclips, it’s so fun to see the different ways!!!
1 de gracieuse was a dutch magazine ( not a german one) and all of the issues (i believe) are available on the website geheugenvannederland.nl
2 if there's one thing i've learned (thanks to bernadette banner) trying to fit my hander-like body into corsetery is that, even back then, corset is meant to give volume as much as, often more than, cinching in the waist, you take your waist mesurment create the corset/stays according to the period's canon proportions, make a mock up to make sure the waist isn't to small or to big, make sure it doesn't poke into you in an uncomfortable way, ride up, chafe it doesn't look funny with your height etc, and you fill out the empty space
3 that corset looks stunning on you
edit: just checked the website and their changed it within the last year so i don't know where to go to search the magazine ^^' apparently the website i meant is now geheugen.delpher.nl/nl/geheugen/pages/collectie/Modetijdschrift+De+Gracieuse
also i speak enough dutch to be able to read those magazines but they are so tiny that we cannot distinguish anything
edit 2 you mentionned it was dutch, my bad
Hello, thanks for you comment! I tend not to pad out my corsets and prefer reduction because I'm very squishy and my bust and hip measurements are each 10"+ greater than my waist measurement without reduction. I will sometimes pad my bust, and this pattern could probably have done with that, but as I was in a rush to finish this for a contest and I'm fairly confident in my patterning skills, I just went with it. Had I done more mockups I would have definitely added more volume to the bust and reduced the waist further, but I'm still pretty pleased with the result! My next series I've budgeted more time for the mockup phase of the corset so please stay tuned for that if you'd like to see the process fleshed out a bit more!
Costumers during isolation - lets make undergarments!
yess perfect time to explore all the things that kind of get pushed aside for the pretty outer parts when there are tons of events to prep for haha
I'm not a seamstress in any way in shape or form but I have watched plenty of people on the RUclips making corsets and the majority of them put a waste tape in and they also added flossing I'm just curious to know what was your choice in not putting away tape in and if you are going to do any flossing? I think if you added some flossing it would make the corset even more pretty... just a suggestion.
I have a strange question. I know that in eighteenth century America hemp linen was an important patriotic textile. Hemp is naturally stiffer than flax, so it could be made a good strength layer fabric. I've never heard of hemp being used for stays or later corsets. Why?
I don't really know much about this myself, but reached out to some others and here's a few of the things mentioned: for one, just because extant garments using hemp linen don't exist now doesn't mean they didn't exist back then! And if they didn't exist then, it may be because hemp linen might have had qualities that aren't well suited to corsets, like maybe it frayed easier, or was uncomfortably scratchy. Hemp may also have been harder to weave than flax, making it less fine and more suited to heavier uses like sails and canvas. Hope that helps!
@@moth.faerieThanks. I just found one extant piece that may be lined with handwoven hemp. I've found other instructions and references to hemp fabric, cord, or stalks being used for linings, cording, and boning. I feel comfortable now using hemp in future projects. Apparently hemp was often referred to as Russian linen or Russian drill since Russia produced a lot of it. augusta-auction.com/component/auctions/?view=lot&id=9912&auction_file_id=20&epik=dj0yJnU9REFIWFJxUWZMVG1zalpSYzJNY0R5ektQMTdVYy1OSWEmcD0wJm49bThFSGI0elZqZWZ6S1FRN1ZHWGtndyZ0PUFBQUFBR0FTQ3lR
@@melissamybubbles6139 I'd heard of the hemp cord being used for boning, but not of it being used for anything else, so that's really interesting, thank you so much for sharing! Fabrics changing names over time always makes it harder to figure it all out!
@@moth.faerie You're welcome. I get the sense that hemp boning was stalks being treated like Reed boning, as opposed to spun fibers, although those were used for cording. Apparently Russian drill was designed for military uniforms. www.wmboothdraper.com/Hemps/hemps_index.htm#:~:text=Russia%20drab%20was%20simply%20any,wagon%20covers%2C%20tents%20and%20clothing.www.najecki.com/repro/Linen.html
@@melissamybubbles6139 Ooh hemp stalks as boning definitely makes more sense than cord as boning lol, I think what I was seeing was more modern uses, apparently hemp cording in corsets was very popular a few years ago? It looks like maybe crash is another name for it? Thought that may refer to a larger grouping of fibers than just hemp
I'm not a seamstress in any way in shape or form but I have watched plenty of people on the RUclips making corsets and the majority of them put a waste tape in and they also added flossing I'm just curious to know what was your choice in not putting a waste tape in, and if you are going to do any flossing? I think if you added some flossing it would make the corset even more sturdy and keep the boning in more securely. Plus adding more to the look of the corset and how pretty it is.. just a suggestion.
The simple answer is because the corset I based the design on doesn't have any flossing and there wasn't enough reduction to necessitate a waist tape. I do put waist tapes in my garments that reduce 2" or more but this was maybe only an inch of reduction which isn't much strain on the corset itself. It's also just a costume corset that I'll likely never wear for more than a few hours at a time so I'm not concerned about the fabric distorting from pressure. As for flossing, I've stitched around each end of the bones to do essentially the same thing flossing would accomplish, which is the technique visible on the extant garment. I may do a corset with flossing in the future! It just wasn't in my design for this one. Thanks for the suggestion though!
What kind of graduate program did you do? I’m an undergrad fashion studies student and would love to move towards historical fashion or further my construction and pattern understanding.
I have a master's in costume production from Carnegie Mellon School of Drama 😊
What scale did you enlarge the pattern sheet to? (/how did you know?)
On the tiny scale version the center front was 3.5" long so I chose to scale it up 400% so the center front would be 14" long since I had a 13" busk and it looked about that length on other people who had made it. It was also a nice round number to get to from 3.5"! It worked out well with pretty minimal adjustments though obviously it's very dependent on individual measurements and I got lucky that I kind of guessed right
Where do you buy your boning from?
i buy from farthingales or corsetmakingsupplies.com
what do you mean printing multiple patterns on one sheet stopped being a practice? my whole life I knew big pattern sheets with color coded patterns all over the sheet? Is it just my european showing?
ooh do European patterns still do that? we looked at vintage (like 50s/70s ish) patterns in grad school and they were all overlapped like that but American patterns definitely do not do that anymore! how interesting!
@@moth.faerie Burda sewing magazine, that we have in eastern Europe, definitely does that xD And it was almost the only source of patterns you could buy in stores
My thought exactly! Burda and other Eastern European magazines still do that.
Hey can you do custom orders?
I don't take commissions right now, sorry!