That tip around 3:00 about leaving the tiny support bits on during curing has been crazy helpful! Tried it out on a few D&D monsters and any leftover supports just rub off.
Glad I could help. Only found it out because I was super lazy one time and did an awful clean up job, and then after curing I was really impressed how easy they just rubbed away.
Supports for me are just a matter of where you're happy to spend extra time: 1. You can support models properly yourself (extra work, but saves time on removing supports and polishing) 2. You can quickly rip supports off straight after printing and if you rip off a sword or something, just flue it back together (no heating, no extra work with supports, but needs extra polishing/post processing. 3. Heating and carefully cutting off supports (extra work, but polishing becomes way easier and no need to glue any ripped parts). Just see which method fits better in your workflow. If you like extra time on your PC - go with the first. Don't have space for hot water/heat gun? Go with the second 3. Love that sweet sweet supports removal ASMR - go with the third one.
Good reminder and help for newer printers - I've used the hot water for the past year or so with great success. I have to ask, though...it looks like your resin is very dry - do you cure first before doing the water trick, or is it just the video lighting playing tricks on my old eyes? 😀 The reason I ask is because I do the water BEFORE curing - seems to be much softer and pliable, making removing the heated supports much easier - just curious! Thanks, Kev
I just got into 3d resin printing and after watching one single video where a guy said "i let them sit in 50'C water for under a minute" I had the presence of mind to buy a cheap electric kettle so I could just reboil that water again and again and again, and pour it into a basin with a cheap meat thermometer from the dollar store. You don't need to buy a baby bottle warmer.
i also suggest dipping in IPA first to remove excess resin, as liquid resin is very slippery and cause you to accidentally drop the model or slip when you try to cut or peel.
I can't see why it wouldn't work on cured models. It still heats up and becomes more flexible, but I would imagine it will be open to breaking. I'm guessing you've been sent something that's still on supports? That's really unusual for sellers to do thatl
That tip around 3:00 about leaving the tiny support bits on during curing has been crazy helpful! Tried it out on a few D&D monsters and any leftover supports just rub off.
Glad I could help. Only found it out because I was super lazy one time and did an awful clean up job, and then after curing I was really impressed how easy they just rubbed away.
Great! thanks for the hot water tip, will try it now on my SW Watto figure!
Thanks for this. I’m just getting started with 3d printing and I am having issues with exactly this, so I can’t wait to try this out.
OMG! This might help me ACTUALLY get the Daleks I've been trying to print to come out!
that's freakin awesome I love Dr. Who
Do you use hot water after curing your prints, after washing them, or right after printing them?
Thanks for this video! It was exactly what I was looking for :)
Supports for me are just a matter of where you're happy to spend extra time: 1. You can support models properly yourself (extra work, but saves time on removing supports and polishing) 2. You can quickly rip supports off straight after printing and if you rip off a sword or something, just flue it back together (no heating, no extra work with supports, but needs extra polishing/post processing. 3. Heating and carefully cutting off supports (extra work, but polishing becomes way easier and no need to glue any ripped parts). Just see which method fits better in your workflow. If you like extra time on your PC - go with the first. Don't have space for hot water/heat gun? Go with the second 3. Love that sweet sweet supports removal ASMR - go with the third one.
Such a good list for different people! Also, love the comment at the end about the ASMR 😂
Good reminder and help for newer printers - I've used the hot water for the past year or so with great success. I have to ask, though...it looks like your resin is very dry - do you cure first before doing the water trick, or is it just the video lighting playing tricks on my old eyes? 😀 The reason I ask is because I do the water BEFORE curing - seems to be much softer and pliable, making removing the heated supports much easier - just curious!
Thanks,
Kev
Yep I do it before curing. Think it’s more of a bad lighting issue in the room where I do my printing.
I just got into 3d resin printing and after watching one single video where a guy said "i let them sit in 50'C water for under a minute" I had the presence of mind to buy a cheap electric kettle so I could just reboil that water again and again and again, and pour it into a basin with a cheap meat thermometer from the dollar store. You don't need to buy a baby bottle warmer.
i also suggest dipping in IPA first to remove excess resin, as liquid resin is very slippery and cause you to accidentally drop the model or slip when you try to cut or peel.
Could you use heat gun if you dont have a heated bottle?
hi, do you remove the supports after washing and curing the model? thanks
I always remove before curing but after washing.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures thanks a lot. I do have a ton of issues with craters in my mini prints
@@GrayScalpMiniatures how to u cure after if the model is wet?
will the hot water technique work on cured models. I purchased a fc model trend 1/35 skeleton. I'm assuming it's cured? it seems very delicate...
I can't see why it wouldn't work on cured models. It still heats up and becomes more flexible, but I would imagine it will be open to breaking. I'm guessing you've been sent something that's still on supports? That's really unusual for sellers to do thatl
Does this work with fdm prints too?
wait wait u first cure then u remove suppor? i always clean remove support and then curing.
now PLA please? Not everybody has a resin printer.