Kenny, I am 32 years old. I bought my first car at 30 (never needed one before that) and your channel gave me the courage to do my own repairs. Did my own oil change, replaced my front bumper, fixed my own brake lights etc. I know it's not much but knowing whatever comes I can probably diy it makes me very reassured. My car was used when I bought it and ran somewhat rough with a bunch of rust in places you don't want it. But steady maintenance made it run like new. Took almost all of the rust spots and rusty parts off and replaced them, sprayed my whole frame with Owatrol so the rust stops and I think I will drive this thing till I die. Next at 60k km the tranny and diff fluids gotta go and be renewed. My Steering rack had one oily boot but fuck it if I start loosing power steering fluid I'll just take the rack out and replace it. Thank you man, thank you a lot.
My ex wife bought a 2013 Equinox with the same garbage engine, It blew up, and she was very meticulous about the oil level and condition. Making one hell of a racket(knock). On the train topic, I still have my American Flyer train from my childhood and I`m 66. Keep wrenching!
2013 equinox did not have this engine. Keeping oil full and changing it between 3 to 5k are 2. Different things. Probably changed it when the dash told ya to. That's the issue. 10k between changes when it should be half that.
The car probably tells you " if you haven't changed the poor oil by now " you better get with it. On the trains - a friend had the one with ' smoke option '. I remember it only made a few weak wisps of smoke. Would have been better to light up a cigarette and stuff it in the stack.
I've seen the exact same model car have pretty similar issues before but the train talk was new.... I enjoy those little kernels of Kenny knowledge. "Smoke 'em if U got 'em"....
Still watching but without knowing the outcome it reminds me of a video Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics had with a Cruze. "Scotty was right" The PCV had a diaphragm built into the valve cover and the diaphragms get unseated. He used a borescope to see it.
I got to watch another mechanic install an O2 sensor that a customer brought from a parts store scan. It was on a Ford Focus, the ones with the 4 cylinder that has the PCV system under the intake manifold. Code was a P0171. I could hear the vacuum leak as he pulled the car in. He proceeded to replace the sensor, clear the codes and drive it - the code returned quickly. I then got a long screwdriver, and showed him how to push on the leaking hose joint to close the vacuum leak and said "there is the cause, fix the vacuum leaks and you'll fix the lean code". Proper diag is always the important part of the job.
Usually the PCV is right out in the open, on the newer Focus it ends up underneath a lot of stuff so you can't even see it. When trying to solve a fast idle problem I went over every possible thing, then when it came to the PCV I had to use a metal bar and push on the hose in between the intake tubes to try and pinch it off. When I did I could hear the valve ' click ' and idle stay the same which told me it was working correct.
Ive been wrenching for almost 25 years and I'm at the point if someone wants to be a cheap skate and let a parts store "diag" the money light... and bring me a part....... then give me your money and I'll slap it on..... Hell, I just put an oil pressure switch on a 08 Yukon the other day, cost customer something like 350 bucks...thier part, and still has same warning on dash for low oil pressure.... didn't fix a thing. Oh well. Parts store "diags" are getting ridiculous H
I worked for advance auto parts for years. I was one of the worst salesperson they had. Why? I told the truth. The scan tool is not a magic bullet. You need a good mechanic to diagnose the problem
That might need new intake too. I have a 1.4T Cruze and installed the Dorman 615-380KIT that should completely fix any PCV and oil consumption problems. If the #2 and 3 spark plugs are oil fouled you definitely need a new intake and the Dorman part has a brace in it that fixes the intake PCV valve problem, which causes the valve cover disk to burst.
Happen to the wifes Cruze a few years back. All kinds of weird warning lights. After a quick RUclips search I figured it out and ordered the cover , installed it and it ran fine afterwords
This is NOT a hate comment or you did WRONG comment just a thought/suggestion. You can also use the smoke machine on the outside start engine and put smoke machine down buy where you suspect vacuum leak and it will draw the smoke in it wont smoth out the idle but it also wont cause a possible fire... after you find vacuum leak you can put duct tape over it to see if idle gets better. Tape won't last as it won't stick to the oil but the vacuum will hold it just until you shut it back off. Just another idea Thanks for all your honesty, hard work and sharing with us all.
Volkswagen uses a rubber diagram like that with a vent hole that will leak vacuum when there is a tear in the diagram. Good video but i have seen the problem on my 2013 vw 2.0 t before. Good tips on when to change the oil to remove more debris, shaken not stirred, lol. Aluminum wheels leak pressure out of the tires over time due to corrosion. You always share the best information.
8 yrs as a dealer tech for a GMC dealership the valve covers are one of the most common failures on these cars. Typically you can hear them whistle as they are drove in.
2013 Chevy Cruze here. They fall apart at 100,000 miles. Not sure I've ever seen one higher mileage. Kind of a fast car too. Also, thank you for the shout-out 1:05:39 :) Things are looking kinda good too! Thank you so much! Keep wrenching🔧
You need to change the intake manifold or the new valve cover will burst just like the old one. The PCV valve is a rubber valve in the intake that has become dislodged and run through the engine. The turbo pressure is what is bursting the intake cover regulator valve.
The issue with "I know a guy" or "30 years experience" is they think they know what they are doing. 100% this customer was no better off with this diagnosis than if they had gone to the part store. I told him same thing too. He treated the effect not the cause.
You are the man brother Kenny! Secret testing facility in Mexico...I wasn't aware of a location of Mexico, North Carolina but it may have recently developed since you moved there. LOL
Not quite. The pcb is the round part he sprayed on. Its built into the valve cover, and is not a separate part. Often the trouble with the "ecotech" GM cars.
We’ve had Hondas for so many years that I’m no longer current on other makes. I thought it was an excellent diagnostic training video including the oil change.
Now.. ever since day one, to do better than ' road draft tubes ' which just puffed crankcase fumes out under the car and the ' draft from moving down the road ' helped draw the fumes out. ( also oiling up the underside of a car tremendously ) They introduced ' Positive Cranckcase Ventilation wherein a valve regulated vacuum going into the intake manifold so that at idle and low speeds it only bled a tiny flow of air, enough to draw fumes from the crankcase into the intake manifold where they can be burned in normal combustion. When vacuum drops during harder acceleration it would allow much more flow. The manifold vacuum was always regulated before tapping into the crankcase. Now... I am of the understanding that there are some vehicles where they actually make the entire crankcase under full intake manifold vacuum and do the flow regulating AFTER the crankcase where fresh air comes in. Is this one of those applications , one of those vehicles ? Or am I wrong altogether? I know my son has a car which will not run right if the oil cap blows off.
@@gerhardmeyer8891not quite. It’s only the 1.4 Ecotecs. The 2.0 supercharged & turbocharged, 2.2 & 2.4 Ecotecs didn’t use such silliness. They have a PCV valve in the intake manifold. You have to remove the intake to change it, but it seldom goes bad. The LNF & LHU (turbo 2.0) have a second PCV valve in the induction pipe pre-turbo. They also all had aluminum valve covers like a real engine.
I've never seen an owners manual that had you check the engine oil any other way than cold or 30 minutes after hot engine shutdown as the preferred way to check the engine oil. When I worked at a Cadillac dealership, we had constant problems with people overfilling Northstar engines because they were checking the oil on a hot engine. Always refer to the owners manual for the CORRECT way to check your engine oil.
Um Kenny, the spark plug is roughly 60-70mm so the gap can't be that large, nor can it be 6-7mm since that is 0.250 rough average. So the gap in mm would be 1mm to equal 0.040", so maybe the range is 0.7mm to 1.6mm (0.0275"-0.0625")? Looking it up shows 0.7mm ( 0.0275") recommended gap. Dual Iridium plugs should not be regapped, the least worn plug in that engine you opened up to near max spec. That spec is a worn out plug.
A half qt over won't hurt. My friends Chevy Sonic has that engine and we've always just used the entire 5 qt jug. And yes we always change the filter first and install the new filter before draining the oil. It's the most efficient way to do it.
What happened to the days where people understood that complex mechanical machines need regular maintenance to stay problem free. The whole drive it til it drops mentality completely boggles my mind. That being said, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. 30+yrs in the biz and roll my eyes every time someone thinks the DTC is the almighty cure for a vehicles problems. Peple fail to realize DTC's point to a circuit fault, not a specific component. Im sure, much like myself, you've seen DTC's actually be a symptom of another issue (this video as a case in point). Nowadays, we as techs not only need to be well versed mechanical and electronic detectives, but we also need to be educators, PR advocates and even emotional support for the clients that walk in through the front door. How times have changed from, "Yeah, you're gonna need a new one o' these. See you next month for your oil change, tire rotation and bi-annual check over." Those customers are few and far between. They are the ones we bend over backwards for.
There are people out there that place more value in a computer readout than years of experience and a practical working knowledge in this line of work.
There is a GM bulletin on many of these vehicles that says the reason the vacuum diaphragm leaks is because of a bad check valve in the intake manifold. Turbo pressure goes through the valve and damages the diaphragm. It's designed to only have vacuum applied to it. The same thing will probably eventually happen again if both repairs aren't made. GM says to replace the entire intake manifold and valve cover. There is an aftermarket check valve made by Dorman that is a lot cheaper.
At 1810 minute mark radiator surge tank cap was moving freely when your arm was rubbing against it, should be tight or cause other problem,, thanks for the content
I had a Chevy Cruze that had a bad valve cover a few times. What’s under that circle thing on that cover is a diaphragm that is a part of the PCV system. When that fails you can get a whistle and it’ll throw codes, thanks to unmetered air getting in. The underlying cause is a failed check valve in the intake. What fixes that is a bypass kit.
now that's a smoke machine i can get behind. thanks for making the whole of this video, now i get to work on my sister in laws knowing what to look for. that motor ran like an old locomotive the U-30 & C-30s by G.E. if it was a diesel i wouldn't have known the difference i bet. by the way, the hobby trains since the late 90's have that smoke heater plate in them once again, along with proto sounds...the speakers are inside the locomotives and they sound terrible...tinnie speakers and tiny sound and they charge an extra $300-800 depending upon the size you get from HO to O and G scale that's why i got out of that hobby. those wireless jbl speaker with a recording sound more realistic.
A popular misconception seen in just about every automotive owners forum is that a trouble code (DTC) = parts list and the parts stores capitalize on it.
My son had his Mazda 3 scanned at auto parts store, he didn't remember the code but they told him his battery was bad and tried to sell him a new one.... He called me instead and in 5 seconds it was apparent to me the altenator belt was MIA.... Battery was just fine of course.
That was unfortunate about the coil pack. If it was my own I likely would have ok'd all 4 to be done. I do have a thing about the symmetry and another coil being a problem soon after.
Guessing with the GM valve cover it doesn’t come with the warning to check valve in the intake manifold that gets sucked into the engine causes valve cover to fail ?
Yeah break clean starts fires but it strips the lube of the walls of the engine and turns it into carbon pellets in the combustion chamber. It welded my piston rings to the piston.
Just because a code reader says there’s a problem with a sensor, doesn’t mean there’s a problem with that sensor. You have to determine if it’s part of the symptom of a different problem or the actual problem itself.
I apologize for asking a stupid question, but what is the round thing where the smoke came out of it and how does that work with the vacuum system and how did it fail?
Your title is incorrect. Rough running caused by faulty valve cover? NO Its caused by faulty PCV check valve. That engine needs an intake manifold too. Turbo pressure going into crankcase is what busted the PCV valve.
When I started watching this video and I see the valve cover come off, I was thinking.. Now is a good time for new plugs and a oil change, sure enough that was done.
The big name auto parts stores are not allowed to diagnose customer vehicles, they are only suppose to give you the code or codes that are being read, they're suppose to know that it's not a diagnosis, it is only a starting point for a diagnosis, any Auto parts employee giving a diagnosis is doing it against company policy. They're never suppose to tell you what is wrong with your vehicle. Only furnish you the codes.
They are crazy here! A new customer bought the parts every time the part didn't fix what the desk guy told him to. It's insane to me. Thanks for letting us know the rules they are supposed to go by. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny That is crazy, I'm in Arkansas and I was specifically told that, when I was hired at at 2 different chain stores, not to recommend parts and specifically say it's not a diagnosis, I remember thinking they must have gotten sued, to be making such a big point of it
No biggie but when I inflate a Tyre, a quick puff before full connection to the valve, blow any dust or grit out then fully connect. After, spit on finger wipe onto end of valve to check that it's not passin air eg bubbles up . Not tryin to be clever, it's just to rule out a leaky valve core. Keep wrenchin.
Usually, I let the customer know that the part broke in the process of disassembly. We bill them cost for the part & no additional labor. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
Kenny at 42:55 talking about spark plug gap you said "between 60 and 70 millimeters." I think you meant between 6 and 7? Don't remember where I got it but I've had www.myautovaluestore.com/kastar/6-wire-spark-plug-gauge-kas-2634a since the early 90s and with that one I only adjust the ground strap without touching the center electrode. Keep on wrenching!!
I wonder if Kenny's past life was a chef.....going bananas, basting chicken, and salad dressing...all sound yummy..thanks Kenny for another great repair video...
That is why I have my own scanner now. Started off with a self built one for VW, then got a generic OBD one to handle other vehicles. Now got a much better one that handles most vehicles.
This customer was no better off than the part store diagnostic. Your treating the result not the cause. The pcv check valve is the cause of the failure. That engine needs a intake manifold as well.
It's a simple matter of letting the customer know that the oil is 10,000 miles overdue and can destroy the engine in the car! The customer then has that knowledge and can make up their own mind regarding an oil change in addition to the required repairs! There is a very big difference between required maintenance and selling parts and repairs that are not necessary!
But in his wording, he said he's gonna change out the valve cover and do an oil change. Why not just fix the problem? And then offer to do an oil change just wondering.
The diaphragm in the cover PCV doesn't vent to atmosphere... it has a hole in it. I've currently got a 1.4 turbo w/98k (2016) opened up for a head gasket. (Cruze) That number 1 cylinder spark plug boot probably stuck, due to being hotter than the other cylinders.... This is the cylinder that loves to let go between #1 and the cooling jacket on the intake side. (air cavitation?) Making sure the viewers know to NOT use non OE covers! HO scale trains were so cool! Half of my family, withi the past few years, moved down there from MA. I'd do the same, but the other half refuses... I was down there last, in 2017 enjoying the warmth and the sun!
Might chevy tax does the same thing. Started @ 15k miles. Hydraulic lifters are horrible. Run by oil pressure. So you can not .DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL AT 6,000 MILES. ITS EVERY 3K BECAUSE OF THE OIL PRESSURIZED LIFTERS. Once the timing is off. It sounds like a deciel engine. You are losimg pressure in the lifters. The back pressure is killing your evap system.
Pretty certain you aren't the reason that coil broke . . . Considering the state of disrepair and neglect this car is showing, it's probably been right on the verge for a long while.
Kenny, I am 32 years old. I bought my first car at 30 (never needed one before that) and your channel gave me the courage to do my own repairs. Did my own oil change, replaced my front bumper, fixed my own brake lights etc. I know it's not much but knowing whatever comes I can probably diy it makes me very reassured.
My car was used when I bought it and ran somewhat rough with a bunch of rust in places you don't want it. But steady maintenance made it run like new. Took almost all of the rust spots and rusty parts off and replaced them, sprayed my whole frame with Owatrol so the rust stops and I think I will drive this thing till I die.
Next at 60k km the tranny and diff fluids gotta go and be renewed. My Steering rack had one oily boot but fuck it if I start loosing power steering fluid I'll just take the rack out and replace it.
Thank you man, thank you a lot.
Too many people think scan tools are a magic wand. They are just a tool to get you on the right track to know which tests to start performing.
My ex wife bought a 2013 Equinox with the same garbage engine, It blew up, and she was very meticulous about the oil level and condition. Making one hell of a racket(knock). On the train topic, I still have my American Flyer train from my childhood and I`m 66. Keep wrenching!
2013 equinox did not have this engine. Keeping oil full and changing it between 3 to 5k are 2. Different things. Probably changed it when the dash told ya to. That's the issue. 10k between changes when it should be half that.
The car probably tells you
" if you haven't changed the poor oil by now " you better get with it.
On the trains - a friend had the one with ' smoke option '. I remember it only made a few weak wisps of smoke. Would have been better to light up a cigarette and stuff it in the stack.
Just picked up a '13 Equinox. 170,000 miles. Drove it from Vegas to MN. Didn't use any oil. Runs well.
I like watching you perform these repairs with wisdom and patience of which I have none. Nice job!
Learned something new again. Plus I have a plug gauge like that. I never knew about the gap opener. Only took 70yrs. Thanks Kenny.😊
I've seen the exact same model car have pretty similar issues before but the train talk was new....
I enjoy those little kernels of Kenny knowledge.
"Smoke 'em if U got 'em"....
I've had Chevy cruises come in that needed a front crank seal intake manifold and valve cover replaced to fix those codes and it worked
Holy Mackerel. I hope I don’t come across one of those.
Still watching but without knowing the outcome it reminds me of a video Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics had with a Cruze. "Scotty was right"
The PCV had a diaphragm built into the valve cover and the diaphragms get unseated. He used a borescope to see it.
My auto mechanic teacher said never rely on the reading from the gauges in the dashboard. We had a Sun diagnosis machine in the 1970’s.
I got to watch another mechanic install an O2 sensor that a customer brought from a parts store scan. It was on a Ford Focus, the ones with the 4 cylinder that has the PCV system under the intake manifold. Code was a P0171. I could hear the vacuum leak as he pulled the car in. He proceeded to replace the sensor, clear the codes and drive it - the code returned quickly. I then got a long screwdriver, and showed him how to push on the leaking hose joint to close the vacuum leak and said "there is the cause, fix the vacuum leaks and you'll fix the lean code".
Proper diag is always the important part of the job.
Usually the PCV is right out in the open, on the newer Focus it ends up underneath a lot of stuff so you can't even see it. When trying to solve a fast idle problem I went over every possible thing, then when it came to the PCV I had to use a metal bar and push on the hose in between the intake tubes to try and pinch it off. When I did I could hear the valve ' click ' and idle stay the same which told me it was working correct.
Ive been wrenching for almost 25 years and I'm at the point if someone wants to be a cheap skate and let a parts store "diag" the money light... and bring me a part....... then give me your money and I'll slap it on..... Hell, I just put an oil pressure switch on a 08 Yukon the other day, cost customer something like 350 bucks...thier part, and still has same warning on dash for low oil pressure.... didn't fix a thing. Oh well. Parts store "diags" are getting ridiculous
H
@@timm5527 For sure. I charge a higher rate for those jobs too. It SHOULD cost more to be stupid.
I worked for advance auto parts for years. I was one of the worst salesperson they had. Why? I told the truth. The scan tool is not a magic bullet. You need a good mechanic to diagnose the problem
That might need new intake too. I have a 1.4T Cruze and installed the Dorman 615-380KIT that should completely fix any PCV and oil consumption problems. If the #2 and 3 spark plugs are oil fouled you definitely need a new intake and the Dorman part has a brace in it that fixes the intake PCV valve problem, which causes the valve cover disk to burst.
Is the replacement of the intake recommended in the service bulletin for this known problem?
@@goodcitizen64 Not sure, Dorman is an aftermarket solution.
Dorman is junk!
Can't wait for 82 KID to have some work done. That day will come. Thank you, Kenny!
Happen to the wifes Cruze a few years back. All kinds of weird warning lights. After a quick RUclips search I figured it out and ordered the cover , installed it and it ran fine afterwords
This is NOT a hate comment or you did WRONG comment just a thought/suggestion.
You can also use the smoke machine on the outside start engine and put smoke machine down buy where you suspect vacuum leak and it will draw the smoke in it wont smoth out the idle but it also wont cause a possible fire... after you find vacuum leak you can put duct tape over it to see if idle gets better.
Tape won't last as it won't stick to the oil but the vacuum will hold it just until you shut it back off.
Just another idea
Thanks for all your honesty, hard work and sharing with us all.
You should have shown us how the short term fuel trim changes as you spray brake cleaner.
I need to try that on ‘04 Sorrento, but I won’t be using brake fluid until I verify the coil wires aren’t producing a lightning show.
Awesome video. I appreciate seeing the oil change. Thanks.
Volkswagen uses a rubber diagram like that with a vent hole that will leak vacuum when there is a tear in the diagram. Good video but i have seen the problem on my 2013 vw 2.0 t before. Good tips on when to change the oil to remove more debris, shaken not stirred, lol. Aluminum wheels leak pressure out of the tires over time due to corrosion. You always share the best information.
8 yrs as a dealer tech for a GMC dealership the valve covers are one of the most common failures on these cars. Typically you can hear them whistle as they are drove in.
2013 Chevy Cruze here. They fall apart at 100,000 miles. Not sure I've ever seen one higher mileage. Kind of a fast car too. Also, thank you for the shout-out 1:05:39 :) Things are looking kinda good too! Thank you so much! Keep wrenching🔧
I got 114K on mine, but I've fixed and/or upgraded all the reliability issues, including this one.
@@sesapup We lost our engine due to a collapsed upper radiator hose. You already know what happens when that happens.
You need to change the intake manifold or the new valve cover will burst just like the old one.
The PCV valve is a rubber valve in the intake that has become dislodged and run through the engine.
The turbo pressure is what is bursting the intake cover regulator valve.
I said the same thing. Even gave him the bulletin from gm.
The issue with "I know a guy" or "30 years experience" is they think they know what they are doing. 100% this customer was no better off with this diagnosis than if they had gone to the part store. I told him same thing too. He treated the effect not the cause.
You are the man brother Kenny! Secret testing facility in Mexico...I wasn't aware of a location of Mexico, North Carolina but it may have recently developed since you moved there. LOL
I learned something new today that a valve cover could act as a PCV! Thanks for the video!
its very common on GMs to have the PVC part of intake manifold/valve cover.
Not quite. The pcb is the round part he sprayed on. Its built into the valve cover, and is not a separate part. Often the trouble with the "ecotech" GM cars.
We’ve had Hondas for so many years that I’m no longer current on other makes. I thought it was an excellent diagnostic training video including the oil change.
Now.. ever since day one, to do better than ' road draft tubes ' which just puffed crankcase fumes out under the car and the ' draft from moving down the road ' helped draw the fumes out.
( also oiling up the underside of a car tremendously )
They introduced ' Positive Cranckcase Ventilation wherein a valve regulated vacuum going into the intake manifold so that at idle and low speeds it only bled a tiny flow of air, enough to draw fumes from the crankcase into the intake manifold where they can be burned in normal combustion. When vacuum drops during harder acceleration it would allow much more flow.
The manifold vacuum was always regulated before tapping into the crankcase. Now...
I am of the understanding that there are some vehicles where they actually make the entire crankcase under full intake manifold vacuum and do the flow regulating AFTER the crankcase where fresh air comes in.
Is this one of those applications , one of those vehicles ?
Or am I wrong altogether?
I know my son has a car which will not run right if the oil cap blows off.
@@gerhardmeyer8891not quite. It’s only the 1.4 Ecotecs. The 2.0 supercharged & turbocharged, 2.2 & 2.4 Ecotecs didn’t use such silliness. They have a PCV valve in the intake manifold. You have to remove the intake to change it, but it seldom goes bad. The LNF & LHU (turbo 2.0) have a second PCV valve in the induction pipe pre-turbo. They also all had aluminum valve covers like a real engine.
I've never seen an owners manual that had you check the engine oil any other way than cold or 30 minutes after hot engine shutdown as the preferred way to check the engine oil.
When I worked at a Cadillac dealership, we had constant problems with people overfilling Northstar engines because they were checking the oil on a hot engine.
Always refer to the owners manual for the CORRECT way to check your engine oil.
You can do like the dentist and have a small tip vacuum line to pickup that loose debris.
Um Kenny, the spark plug is roughly 60-70mm so the gap can't be that large, nor can it be 6-7mm since that is 0.250 rough average. So the gap in mm would be 1mm to equal 0.040", so maybe the range is 0.7mm to 1.6mm (0.0275"-0.0625")? Looking it up shows 0.7mm ( 0.0275") recommended gap. Dual Iridium plugs should not be regapped, the least worn plug in that engine you opened up to near max spec. That spec is a worn out plug.
Thank you for all your knowledge kenny !
A half qt over won't hurt. My friends Chevy Sonic has that engine and we've always just used the entire 5 qt jug. And yes we always change the filter first and install the new filter before draining the oil. It's the most efficient way to do it.
Adding that much extra oil in these engines will cause oil leaks over time. It causes too much crankcase pressure
When you pulled the coil pack up, it was at angle, that caused the one coil to break! I rewound video and you can see when it broke!
Doh!
What happened to the days where people understood that complex mechanical machines need regular maintenance to stay problem free. The whole drive it til it drops mentality completely boggles my mind.
That being said, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. 30+yrs in the biz and roll my eyes every time someone thinks the DTC is the almighty cure for a vehicles problems.
Peple fail to realize DTC's point to a circuit fault, not a specific component. Im sure, much like myself, you've seen DTC's actually be a symptom of another issue (this video as a case in point).
Nowadays, we as techs not only need to be well versed mechanical and electronic detectives, but we also need to be educators, PR advocates and even emotional support for the clients that walk in through the front door.
How times have changed from, "Yeah, you're gonna need a new one o' these. See you next month for your oil change, tire rotation and bi-annual check over." Those customers are few and far between. They are the ones we bend over backwards for.
There are people out there that place more value in a computer readout than years of experience and a practical working knowledge in this line of work.
There is a GM bulletin on many of these vehicles that says the reason the vacuum diaphragm leaks is because of a bad check valve in the intake manifold. Turbo pressure goes through the valve and damages the diaphragm. It's designed to only have vacuum applied to it. The same thing will probably eventually happen again if both repairs aren't made. GM says to replace the entire intake manifold and valve cover. There is an aftermarket check valve made by Dorman that is a lot cheaper.
Just did one with 62k and it needed a timing job too. .025 inch of sludge in bottom of oil pan.
Turned out great Kenny
nowdays, if they made them any cheaper, they would'nt be able to drive them off the assembly line.
..... I'm waiting for the plastic CV joints/axles. Oh yeah.
At 1810 minute mark radiator surge tank cap was moving freely when your arm was rubbing against it, should be tight or cause other problem,, thanks for the content
Thanks, friend! I will check. Keep wrenching 🔧
I had a Chevy Cruze that had a bad valve cover a few times. What’s under that circle thing on that cover is a diaphragm that is a part of the PCV system. When that fails you can get a whistle and it’ll throw codes, thanks to unmetered air getting in. The underlying cause is a failed check valve in the intake. What fixes that is a bypass kit.
now that's a smoke machine i can get behind. thanks for making the whole of this video, now i get to work on my sister in laws knowing what to look for. that motor ran like an old locomotive the U-30 & C-30s by G.E. if it was a diesel i wouldn't have known the difference i bet. by the way, the hobby trains since the late 90's have that smoke heater plate in them once again, along with proto sounds...the speakers are inside the locomotives and they sound terrible...tinnie speakers and tiny sound and they charge an extra $300-800 depending upon the size you get from HO to O and G scale that's why i got out of that hobby. those wireless jbl speaker with a recording sound more realistic.
Yes I remember this were the days, you had to put in mineral oil.
A popular misconception seen in just about every automotive owners forum is that a trouble code (DTC) = parts list and the parts stores capitalize on it.
My son had his Mazda 3 scanned at auto parts store, he didn't remember the code but they told him his battery was bad and tried to sell him a new one.... He called me instead and in 5 seconds it was apparent to me the altenator belt was MIA.... Battery was just fine of course.
I'm looking at how to use vacuum gauges as a diagnostic. How would this issue show on the gauge? Lower vacuum? Would a gauge show an issue?
When you scanned for codes you showed a misfire. Was it the cylinder where the coil broke? Might have been cracked.
P0300 is a general misfire code, you would see a 0301, 2, 3, or 4 for each cylinder.
@@sesapup I realize that. Did he just get a general?
You can buy the smoke fluid with different smells like cherry, root beer etc.
That was unfortunate about the coil pack. If it was my own I likely would have ok'd all 4 to be done. I do have a thing about the symmetry and another coil being a problem soon after.
I agree. Thanks for watching!
You already made the video about parts counter diagnostics.
Guessing with the GM valve cover it doesn’t come with the warning to check valve in the intake manifold that gets sucked into the engine causes valve cover to fail ?
I had a cruise making a whistling noise from the crank seal new valve cover and front seal problem solved
Yeah break clean starts fires but it strips the lube of the walls of the engine and turns it into carbon pellets in the combustion chamber. It welded my piston rings to the piston.
71 in/lbs is the torque spec for the valve cover fasteners.
Don't forget to clean all those leaves off the cowl!
Good job.
38:10 Be sure to clock that oil cap assembly correctly, otherwise it'll be a seven-ten cap.
i have always enjoyed your videos but i liked the shorter format better ,
I also prefer the shorter video format! I'm a southern man that enjoys the meat and taters lol
Haha! Don't know how much oil it takes....oh, 4 qts. Let's put in 5 cause you know, the level will go down over time.
I'm happy with that nice job.
Just because a code reader says there’s a problem with a sensor, doesn’t mean there’s a problem with that sensor. You have to determine if it’s part of the symptom of a different problem or the actual problem itself.
Great job. Tks for the info.
I have had those same codes caused by a bad alternator.
Pcv is not the valve cover. Pcv is in the intake manifold under that corrugated hose you sprayed.
Maf codes on 1.4 typically a bad pcv in the intake.
I apologize for asking a stupid question, but what is the round thing where the smoke came out of it and how does that work with the vacuum system and how did it fail?
Your title is incorrect. Rough running caused by faulty valve cover? NO Its caused by faulty PCV check valve. That engine needs an intake manifold too. Turbo pressure going into crankcase is what busted the PCV valve.
When I started watching this video and I see the valve cover come off, I was thinking.. Now is a good time for new plugs and a oil change, sure enough that was done.
32:40 Right into your cup of coffee. 😄😄
Nice work Kenny.
pvc valve is in the intake manifold an needs checked. the valve cover valve is pressure regulator.
Great video, Kenny, I really enjoyed it. Thanks.
The big name auto parts stores are not allowed to diagnose customer vehicles, they are only suppose to give you the code or codes that are being read, they're suppose to know that it's not a diagnosis, it is only a starting point for a diagnosis, any Auto parts employee giving a diagnosis is doing it against company policy. They're never suppose to tell you what is wrong with your vehicle. Only furnish you the codes.
They are crazy here! A new customer bought the parts every time the part didn't fix what the desk guy told him to. It's insane to me. Thanks for letting us know the rules they are supposed to go by. Keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny That is crazy, I'm in Arkansas and I was specifically told that, when I was hired at at 2 different chain stores, not to recommend parts and specifically say it's not a diagnosis, I remember thinking they must have gotten sued, to be making such a big point of it
Why didn’t you change the plugs while the valve cover was off?
Why replace valve cover when it was the cap that was leaking? Why not replace the leaky cap and tube?
The cap is part of the valve cover.
Hi Kenny. Would plugging up where the smoke was coming out make the car run smooth? just a thought.
No biggie but when I inflate a Tyre, a quick puff before full connection to the valve, blow any dust or grit out then fully connect. After, spit on finger wipe onto end of valve to check that it's not passin air eg bubbles up . Not tryin to be clever, it's just to rule out a leaky valve core. Keep wrenchin.
Kenny, how do you bill for something like that coil pack breaking?
Usually, I let the customer know that the part broke in the process of disassembly. We bill them cost for the part & no additional labor. Thanks for watching & keep wrenching 🔧
@@WrenchingWithKenny Thanks seems very reasonable to me.
Those PCV valves on those engines are notorious for failure.
I am curious, was the customer charged for the coil? I would hate for the mechanic would have to pay for this.
I always blow the leaves and debris out of the cowl and engine area.
You might be blowing it in further into the fender well. I would vacuum it out.
Baby oil works well in a smoke machine.
And the old trains! Lol
Might coat the sensor. I use smoke machine oil.
Sir why did you not remove cover 1st B4 all that work. Known issue one ecotech is valve cover
What about Wd 45 or carb cleaner?
Anything combustible will affect the idle.
Kenny at 42:55 talking about spark plug gap you said "between 60 and 70 millimeters." I think you meant between 6 and 7? Don't remember where I got it but I've had www.myautovaluestore.com/kastar/6-wire-spark-plug-gauge-kas-2634a since the early 90s and with that one I only adjust the ground strap without touching the center electrode. Keep on wrenching!!
I wonder if Kenny's past life was a chef.....going bananas, basting chicken, and salad dressing...all sound yummy..thanks Kenny for another great repair video...
Hey Kenny ,do you work odd hours ,I dont see antone else in the shop.??
My toy train had a removable gold bell and you'd squirt the oil into that hole
I am guilty of using auto zone for codes😮😢. It was only for giving me an idea of what is going on
That is why I have my own scanner now. Started off with a self built one for VW, then got a generic OBD one to handle other vehicles. Now got a much better one that handles most vehicles.
@@SeanBZA yeah lol, I finally got a pretty good scan tool from launch, it's ok .
Trouble Codes are just a starting point and may not pinpoint the cause.
This customer was no better off than the part store diagnostic. Your treating the result not the cause. The pcv check valve is the cause of the failure. That engine needs a intake manifold as well.
I always use a spray bottle of water and the hissing sound will get louder and engine runs worst.
You said the word banana twice. You got me talking like that!🍌
I would like to know Why you would up sell. For oil change Just change a valve cover.
It's a simple matter of letting the customer know that the oil is 10,000 miles overdue and can destroy the engine in the car! The customer then has that knowledge and can make up their own mind regarding an oil change in addition to the required repairs! There is a very big difference between required maintenance and selling parts and repairs that are not necessary!
But in his wording, he said he's gonna change out the valve cover and do an oil change. Why not just fix the problem? And then offer to do an oil change just wondering.
No die-electric grease on the spark plugs boots????
The diaphragm in the cover PCV doesn't vent to atmosphere... it has a hole in it.
I've currently got a 1.4 turbo w/98k (2016) opened up for a head gasket. (Cruze)
That number 1 cylinder spark plug boot probably stuck, due to being hotter than the other cylinders.... This is the cylinder that loves to let go between #1 and the cooling jacket on the intake side. (air cavitation?)
Making sure the viewers know to NOT use non OE covers!
HO scale trains were so cool!
Half of my family, withi the past few years, moved down there from MA. I'd do the same, but the other half refuses... I was down there last, in 2017 enjoying the warmth and the sun!
Question for you Kenny....Is there ever a time where "going bananas" is required? 😂 Just kidding, I'm learning so much from you. You're the best!
Mike the scrappers video did the same thing looks foggy.
Mine was covered under a TSB
Part store tells everyone bad oxygen sensor that means nothing oxygen just sends signals that something wrong with engine components
That's not necessarily true. Twice I've had "bad sensor" codes that were indeed the sensors.
@@barrygrant2907 possibly but unlikely sensors just monitor
@@Mcculock They are also monitored.
Seen with topping off the gas tank too setting off oxygen sensor codes
Might chevy tax does the same thing. Started @ 15k miles. Hydraulic lifters are horrible. Run by oil pressure. So you can not .DO NOT CHANGE YOUR OIL AT 6,000 MILES. ITS EVERY 3K BECAUSE OF THE OIL PRESSURIZED LIFTERS. Once the timing is off. It sounds like a deciel engine. You are losimg pressure in the lifters. The back pressure is killing your evap system.
Actually the parts store policy these days is no diagnosis only code reader
The oil cap is called a 710 cap by blondes too.Topping off the gas tank will set off oxygen sensor codes too.Seen this before
The coilpack should be hand pulled from the middle, not the side. Thats why it broke at the other end
yep
Pretty certain you aren't the reason that coil broke . . .
Considering the state of disrepair and neglect this car is showing, it's probably been right on the verge for a long while.
My OCD would have made me clean that area by the exhaust much better.
Need di-electric?