how to use a BEAM STYLE torque wrench
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2024
- One of the simplest torque wrench is would be a beam style torque wrench. There’s nothing to set on it you just tighten the bolt and as you do you watch the needle that stays stationary point to your torque. It’s even possible to torque a reverse thread because the numbers go on each Direction. Very simple but effective. I guess your torque. These wrenches are typically lower cost than the clicker style
May I add that proper use includes a)checking that the needle is showing 0 when beam is at rest, b)keeping the grip handle pivoting on its pivot (if it has one) while torquing, and c)seeing that the needle is not rubbing but rather 'floating' in its guide while tightening to torque value. Thanks.
@LucasMaclean-fy7st Yes, this will ‘zero’ the reading. The main beam, associated with the mounted needle and scale, are already calibrated to produce a good reading.
@LucasMaclean-fy7st Ha! 😆 Next time just tighten the nuts to the point that you can still muster the strength to get them off again.
This is what I use to check ring and pinion bearing preload on differentials.
I just got a torque wrench & this video helped me so much this is the best video explaining
A couple of things for anyone watching this video.
I HIGHLY recommend to NOT test your torque wrench in a vice like this. Unless, you are testing very low torque numbers and know when it's not working right.
A few weeks ago, I bought a torque wrench. Sadly, it was garbage. I set it to a low number, like 20 FP and put it in the vice like this.
But I didn't know what 20 FP would "feel" like. So I kept pulling, waiting for the click (click type wrench not this beam style one).
Well, all of a sudden, a huge SNAP! The vice literally broke in half. And right at the bottom of one of the jaws where the metal is thick.
So never again.
I did return THAT wrench and bought a much better one that actually works. (I actually bought 2. One that goes up to 250 FP and a smaller one with more accuracy).
I did have to buy a new vice, which I'll install any day now... sigh... anyyy dayyyy nowww. LOL
As for the beam type, I also have one of those and used it for years.
A bunch of months back, I noticed that the needle as not pointing at zero when not in use.
So, I just bent the pointer bar until it was at zero.
To my shock, when I tested the beam type wrench against the one with more accuracy and to my great surprised, the beam type was right on the button! Impressive for such a cheap, non-clicking wrench.
its fine with a beam type one to do that
True 👍 I'm gay
For $15 im glad theres options and this was mine currently
i got one for 12€ best desicion of my life. Works like a charm
Thanks for this. I watched a terrible video on the same subject just a decond ago, but this was a breath of fresh air.
Glad you enjoyed the video, these torque wrenches are so simple.There’s no set up
just a FYI: MKG does not equal NM, you have to divide Nm by 10 to get mKG :)
Plan and simple. Thank you!
I've never seen a beam torque wrench 10 ft. lbs. off! Wish you showed how to re-calibrate it to zero. Maybe if I take mine to a lug nut that might fix mine being about 2 lbs. off. UPDATE: Just got back from testing the accuracy of my clicker against my Craftsman beam and found my clicker to be dead on. I also looked at my beam after a few 60 lb. twists of my lug nuts and it looked to be almost dead on now. I guess they were right that when put into use, they straighten them selves out. I'm sure heat and cold can play a minor factor in accuracy as well. Now I have to decide which to use on my Chevy 350 head bolts at 65 ft. lbs. I guess seeing is believing and it don't get any more accurate than that..........
@@eriktomas9194 You damn well know what I meant........
Why is it resting at 10 ft/lb? Seems like a problem. 🤷🏻♂️
I got two of these from a garage sale. Bought them without even knowing how to use them. I had to grab them I think they were made in the US and sold by SEARS.
The metric scale is dNm, which is Nm * 10, so the max is actually 200Nm, not 20.
It's actually "daNm" for 10*Nm, because "dNm" would be 0.1*Nm. Even though it looks like a misspelling of "damn", it really is "daNm". "da" the only 2-letter SI prefix.
"da" is short for "deca-", and it basically means ten times some unit. When it's just "d", it's short for "deci-", which means a tenth of some unit.
"deca-"/"da" is fairly rarely used, while "deci-"/"d" is used a lot especially for volume (a decilitre or 1 dl is 0.1 litres), and also for e.g. decibel/dB (for the *other* kind of volume).
best torque wrench to get beam style
I used a rope that I measured to break at 54N and just multiplied the lever and managed to hit 25NM without such a wrench x'D
How about explaining the most important part of Beam Type Torque Wrench, how to properly hold a handle?
How????
And the beam type, let’s you see if the fastener is binding and releasing. Which you can’t detect with the click style.
I happen to notice that the needle reader was off center when your hand wasn't touching it looked to be sitting at 8-10 foot pounds
Short and sweet, thanks!
LoL kool thank you from the Navajo Reservation
You're like Hank Hill without the accent.
You got to adjust it where beam stays at zero……js…..👀
Is this an old school tool?
They were used to put engines together before the 1940's
I need 40nm of torque for my crankset on bike,i think i need a lot of power for it,that is a lot torque I think if this is ony 20nm wrench
This one is better then not having one. But if you have few extra bucks. Get a better one which anyone is better then this one
Is it true that beam type rarely get out of calibration vs click ones? how often should you recalibrate beam type? and people actually use beam type to check on click type wrenches?
To test the accuracy of a clicker against a beam, you can either torque a lug nut down at say 60 ft. lbs. with a beam, then set a clicker to 60 ft. lbs. and test the lug nut and see if it clicks before turning the lug nut, and if it does, turn the clicker a hair more to see if the lug nut does turn as in my case. THAT IS ONE WAY and can also be used the same with any matching torque wrenches in inch lbs. etc.......... THE true way is to take a beam and a clicker and put say a 1/2" socket on each and then use a nut that both sockets can get a good gripe on. in my case, I used a 1/2" by 1-1/2" long CB antenna base nut to joining both torque wrenches together. Test at 20 ft. lbs. by setting the clicker and then watching the pointer of the beam. Then 30/40/ or what ever you wish. Unless you're a 'shaker' LOL... they don't get anymore accurate than a beam!!
its also extremely cheap compared to other wrenched
It's not calibrated, is it?
I would say it’s not calibrated very accurately. There’s no way to adjust if it was out of calibration. I’ve always use these Beam torque wrenches as a close guesstimate. They come and get you in the ballpark. Super simple idea though
I just bought an old hilka ½
Can you do spark plugs with this style torque wrench?
I would not use a beam type for spark plugs.
@@48retrop why?
What brand is that torque wrench? Is the Craftsman beam from Sears any good? They have it for $15 right now. Cheaper than harbor freight clicker wrench.
Beam torque wrenches are very accurate when used properly. But the one shown is incorrect. It should rest at zero and you didn't mention anything about the special handle and how it is supposed to be centered during rotation. When your deflecting it, the handle is not aligned with the handle. It pivots for a reason.
@@wesoblander3648 go back to the troll forums.
I haven’t seen your video
@@buckdangt3343 challenge accepted. I’m professionally trained in aviation school to use these. I have worked in a calibration lab for over a year. I still use them regularly.
Do you have a video on how to zero the wrench?
The beam style torque wrenches cannot be calibrated. The temper of the metal is what calibrates it, so they will never need to be zeroed except in the case that the beam heats up enough that the metal loses its temper. In that case you'd just buy a new one, they're quite cheap. But you'll likely never need to do that.
Do these need to be calibrated?
That would depend on the job and required accuracy, when you buy. A decent one new, they come with a calibration certificate usually, I have about $1500 of torque wrenches and each one has certificate of calibration. I have a digital wrench and a couple click style torque wrenches by far the digital is my go to for head bolts due to its accuracy and ability to accurately give angle (usually a requirement for head bolts) but I also have a click style that does angle however I don't believe it would be as accurate (+-5°) in my opinion
Cool I just got mine today for only $16 it's a piece of mind. I was wondering why the dial isn't on the zero but it looks to be normal thanks
Bend the pointer back to zero!
@@rideitlikeyoustoleit7640 lol
@@Saint696Anger I'm being serious. That's what you do, you bend it back to zero or otherwise your torque ratings will be all off.
@@rideitlikeyoustoleit7640 it seems like all of them are set slightly off
@@Saint696Anger all of mine are set to zero
Keep the grip centered on the pivot. Your not using jt right