With those wobble handles that are pinned in the middle, you're supposed to keep the handle balanced in the middle so the force you're applying goes only through the pin that holds the handle on. This is because the torque wrench is calibrated for that exact distance from the pin to the anvil where the socket goes.
@@CatusMaximus so the same concept applies to the tiny T Wrench but there is only room or need for a few fingers on the handle to put the force into the tiny handle (creating another exact spot for the wrench to calculate the torque from).
I own nice click type torque wrenches but have found my old beam ones to be highly accurate if used properly. Balancing the swivel handle is important. Nice review, these tools are under rated in my opinion.
Thank you and yes indeed I believe they are underrated as well. So nice just to grab a torque wrench put a socket on it and then torque to the desired value without having to adjust handles and knobs and other weird things
I own 2 beam and 2 click type touque wrenches, all Craftsman, all bought brand new over the past 50 years. All of them are still perfectly calabrated which says a lot about the old Craftsman tools. Great video!
I happened to get one of these in a gunsmith toolkit and had never used one. I thought since it didn’t click or beep that they gave crap quality components out. After reviewing videos like this, I’m finding their was a method to what they included. Great video! I learned quite a few tidbits! Thank you!
I had a beam type about 25-30 years ago, and switched to a click type, which I still have. But the thing that caught my eye was industro version, in the lead in! I was just gifted one a while ago, and learned from you, how to store it! So, downstairs I went to turn it over! Keep them coming.
Great info about work hardening the wrench! I didn't know about that but it perfectly explains why old beam torque wrenches show too small measurements. One would expect that the springiness of the steel would weaken instead and displayed value would be too big.
I have 2 60s gray beam styles 1 1/2 inch and 1 3/8s and 1 60s proto in 1/4. Brought them on the snap on truck a few years back and he tested them and they were within 2% better than any click style ive ever seen.
I own the Craftsmen one rebranded under Park Tool and I only use it for one thing do to the handle being so long it can be tricky to get it to stay on fasteners well. But it works great for the ten bucks I payed for and it has stayed calibrated for the 20 ish years it's been on the planet.
The wobble as you call it is so all the pressure from your hand goes through that PIN in the center of the handle to the tool for consistency and accuracy
Another point to clarify regarding how this device works, is that it is not the needle that moves, it's the scale that moves. The large beam is physically bent/distorted when the force is applied, the scale is fixed to the large beam, the stationary needle then indicates how much the scale/large beam has moved (applied torque in ft-lbs).
probably the best way to describe the handle pivot is so you 'float' the handle in use so that you are pulling *only* at the pivot point... and NOT bound up on the front or the back of the handle against the beam.
I bought two click type torque wrench and both I could not get it to work right. I even got a luggage scale and still no luck. I am going back to my beam wrench.
Hi nice video. And nice cat. I'm about to get a 1/2" 300Nm beam for very cheap, much cheaper than a click that goes that far up in torque. I only need it for the hub nut. You said that 150ftlbs (200Nm) is about the limit so I wonder about the quality of this particular tool. But I guess it should be better than guesstimating just through lever_arm*weight?
Yes, these are plenty accurate enough for the hobby mechanic. Most torque values are given with a margin of error anyways, so these would fall within the measurement range. I know someone who over torqued a bolt to the point that it sheared off using a bargain basement click style torque wrench. He would have been better suited using one of these beam style torque wrenches.
Great tutorial thank you. What are your thoughts on ARES 70214 0-800 inch pound 3/8 compared to Craftsman 3/8 0-75 ft pound. I'm using mostly for car oil drain nut and spark plugs. Torq range is between 10-30 ft pound, low range. Will be working under the car with ramps so not too much room. Size and length play a role as well. Thank you again.
Is it true that beam type rarely get out of calibration vs click ones? how often should you recalibrate beam type? and people actually use beam type to check on click type wrenches?
Unless the needle or the beam gets bent deflecting beam torque wrenches never need to be calibrated it's all based on the rigidity of the steel rod and yes you can connect them to a click type to see if you're getting a relatively accurate reading
It's hard to find these kind of torque wrenches in Australia, mostly we can only get the ratchet style or the super expensive and over engineered brand name deflecting beam wrenches. I'm fine with paying $30 or $40 bucks and having to replace a sensitive tool if it goes out, it's sure as hell better that paying a $300 replacement cost for a name 1/2 defecting beam, or paying the high servicing and calibration cost for the ratchet style wrenches.
@@CatusMaximus Thanks. I moved recently and couldn't find my old SK beam wrench, I dug through boxes last night and found it. It only goes to 100 PSI, but hey it has worked for me since the late 1960s. Thanks for the thoughtful response.
5:24 10 foot lbs... But, we all make mistakes on youtube videos... "12 inches per foot"... Also, the needle only rotates with ''bolt or nut" and the bottom ''deflects''... and that deflection is shown in the ''needle reading"... I am making tons of videos on bolts if you care to stop in and say hi... Thank you for taking the time to load your videos up and I wish you success on youtube.
Kilopond is an outdated unit for force, or in combination with meter it was the unit for torque. It was replaced in 1978 in Germany by the unit Newton, or Newton meter for torque. And don't mix mass and weight, kg is mass, kilopond is weight. Mass is everywhere the same, but the weight is different on different places. If you have a mass of 100kg on earth on sea level you have a weight of 100kp. On the moon you still have a mass of 100kg, but your weight is only ~16kp. The unit that is now in use is Newton meter (Nm) for torque. The conversion factor from the old kpm to Nm is 9,81, and so it is from this meter kilogram thing to the unit which is common for this. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_metre
Thank you I didn't believe it was an error but obviously being such a strange measurement unit it was not very effective so they went with a much more accurate torque measurement rather than a weight measurement it seems strange that they would have chosen that in the first place
As a weird twist British used to call it mkp (meter kilopond) and continental Europe called it kpm (kilopond meter) similar to Nm used today. The logic for mkp unit was to mirror foot pound where length is before the mass. Obviously, real torque is actually force applied to some distance which is why Nm is used nowadays instead of mass at some distance.
If you ensure that the handle is not touching the steel at the end of the handle, then the force you are applying will be at the pivot point. I am guessing that this is their way of ensuring that you receive a consistent reading.
If the needle is bent, it's really easy to bent it back to position where it doesn't touch the frame. That's the way to zero the needle, too, which is the only calibration possible for this tool.
With those wobble handles that are pinned in the middle, you're supposed to keep the handle balanced in the middle so the force you're applying goes only through the pin that holds the handle on. This is because the torque wrench is calibrated for that exact distance from the pin to the anvil where the socket goes.
Thanks for the tip!
@@CatusMaximus Cheers!
@@CatusMaximus so the same concept applies to the tiny T Wrench but there is only room or need for a few fingers on the handle to put the force into the tiny handle (creating another exact spot for the wrench to calculate the torque from).
I own nice click type torque wrenches but have found my old beam ones to be highly accurate if used properly. Balancing the swivel handle is important. Nice review, these tools are under rated in my opinion.
Thank you and yes indeed I believe they are underrated as well. So nice just to grab a torque wrench put a socket on it and then torque to the desired value without having to adjust handles and knobs and other weird things
I own 2 beam and 2 click type touque wrenches, all Craftsman, all bought brand new over the past 50 years. All of them are still perfectly calabrated which says a lot about the old Craftsman tools. Great video!
Craftsman is still plenty good for the average enthusiast, if you're using these tools all day every day though, invest in the best.
I happened to get one of these in a gunsmith toolkit and had never used one. I thought since it didn’t click or beep that they gave crap quality components out. After reviewing videos like this, I’m finding their was a method to what they included. Great video! I learned quite a few tidbits! Thank you!
The wobble handle it to assure proper torque. You are to pull on it keeping in the neutral position.
I had a beam type about 25-30 years ago, and switched to a click type, which I still have. But the thing that caught my eye was industro version, in the lead in! I was just gifted one a while ago, and learned from you, how to store it! So, downstairs I went to turn it over! Keep them coming.
Thank you for your comment
Great info about work hardening the wrench! I didn't know about that but it perfectly explains why old beam torque wrenches show too small measurements. One would expect that the springiness of the steel would weaken instead and displayed value would be too big.
I have 2 60s gray beam styles 1 1/2 inch and 1 3/8s and 1 60s proto in 1/4. Brought them on the snap on truck a few years back and he tested them and they were within 2% better than any click style ive ever seen.
I own the Craftsmen one rebranded under Park Tool and I only use it for one thing do to the handle being so long it can be tricky to get it to stay on fasteners well. But it works great for the ten bucks I payed for and it has stayed calibrated for the 20 ish years it's been on the planet.
I just love talking hand videos!!
@Lionel Yazzie LOL
The wobble as you call it is so all the pressure from your hand goes through that PIN in the center of the handle to the tool for consistency and accuracy
Another point to clarify regarding how this device works, is that it is not the needle that moves, it's the scale that moves. The large beam is physically bent/distorted when the force is applied, the scale is fixed to the large beam, the stationary needle then indicates how much the scale/large beam has moved (applied torque in ft-lbs).
Nice Job on this Video, I grew up with a beam type, still have several, very complete review, Thank You.
Thank you
probably the best way to describe the handle pivot is so you 'float' the handle in use so that you are pulling *only* at the pivot point... and NOT bound up on the front or the back of the handle against the beam.
Yes thank you I needed to have clarified that in the video
I love you videos, where do you get all of your tools? You seem to have everything!
I've been collecting for 15 years
I bought two click type torque wrench and both I could not get it to work right. I even got a luggage scale and still no luck. I am going back to my beam wrench.
Hi nice video. And nice cat. I'm about to get a 1/2" 300Nm beam for very cheap, much cheaper than a click that goes that far up in torque. I only need it for the hub nut. You said that 150ftlbs (200Nm) is about the limit so I wonder about the quality of this particular tool. But I guess it should be better than guesstimating just through lever_arm*weight?
Are these accurate compared to the clicker ones? Would you suggest it for a hobby mechanic with a seriously tight budget?
Yes, these are plenty accurate enough for the hobby mechanic. Most torque values are given with a margin of error anyways, so these would fall within the measurement range. I know someone who over torqued a bolt to the point that it sheared off using a bargain basement click style torque wrench. He would have been better suited using one of these beam style torque wrenches.
Great tutorial thank you. What are your thoughts on ARES 70214 0-800 inch pound 3/8 compared to Craftsman 3/8 0-75 ft pound. I'm using mostly for car oil drain nut and spark plugs. Torq range is between 10-30 ft pound, low range. Will be working under the car with ramps so not too much room. Size and length play a role as well. Thank you again.
thats what she said…lol
Is it true that beam type rarely get out of calibration vs click ones? how often should you recalibrate beam type? and people actually use beam type to check on click type wrenches?
Unless the needle or the beam gets bent deflecting beam torque wrenches never need to be calibrated it's all based on the rigidity of the steel rod and yes you can connect them to a click type to see if you're getting a relatively accurate reading
It's hard to find these kind of torque wrenches in Australia, mostly we can only get the ratchet style or the super expensive and over engineered brand name deflecting beam wrenches.
I'm fine with paying $30 or $40 bucks and having to replace a sensitive tool if it goes out, it's sure as hell better that paying a $300 replacement cost for a name 1/2 defecting beam, or paying the high servicing and calibration cost for the ratchet style wrenches.
Yes the split beam wrenches are expensive. These simple deflecting beam wrenches are pretty nice and are accurate
Thanks good video I prefer the click type. Torque wrench
Yes as do I but one nice distinct advantage of a deflecting being as you can use them to measure torque as opposed to just apply a certain amount
The floating handle is to prevent the user from exerting a moment on the wrench that would affect the reading.
Could you do spark plugs with these?
Most important is bolt to bolt consistency...head bolts etc. If your close, yet all equal. Good to go
Do you have a recommendation for a 1/2" drive, 0 - 150 Lb. beam torque wrench?
The Craftsman ones are pretty easy to read with their nice red and white high contrast indicator
@@CatusMaximus Thanks. I moved recently and couldn't find my old SK beam wrench, I dug through boxes last night and found it. It only goes to 100 PSI, but hey it has worked for me since the late 1960s. Thanks for the thoughtful response.
5:24 10 foot lbs... But, we all make mistakes on youtube videos... "12 inches per foot"... Also, the needle only rotates with ''bolt or nut" and the bottom ''deflects''... and that deflection is shown in the ''needle reading"... I am making tons of videos on bolts if you care to stop in and say hi... Thank you for taking the time to load your videos up and I wish you success on youtube.
Kilopond is an outdated unit for force, or in combination with meter it was the unit for torque. It was replaced in 1978 in Germany by the unit Newton, or Newton meter for torque. And don't mix mass and weight, kg is mass, kilopond is weight. Mass is everywhere the same, but the weight is different on different places. If you have a mass of 100kg on earth on sea level you have a weight of 100kp. On the moon you still have a mass of 100kg, but your weight is only ~16kp.
The unit that is now in use is Newton meter (Nm) for torque. The conversion factor from the old kpm to Nm is 9,81, and so it is from this meter kilogram thing to the unit which is common for this.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Newton_metre
Thank you I didn't believe it was an error but obviously being such a strange measurement unit it was not very effective so they went with a much more accurate torque measurement rather than a weight measurement it seems strange that they would have chosen that in the first place
As a weird twist British used to call it mkp (meter kilopond) and continental Europe called it kpm (kilopond meter) similar to Nm used today. The logic for mkp unit was to mirror foot pound where length is before the mass. Obviously, real torque is actually force applied to some distance which is why Nm is used nowadays instead of mass at some distance.
If you ensure that the handle is not touching the steel at the end of the handle, then the force you are applying will be at the pivot point. I am guessing that this is their way of ensuring that you receive a consistent reading.
If the needle is bent, it's really easy to bent it back to position where it doesn't touch the frame. That's the way to zero the needle, too, which is the only calibration possible for this tool.
awesome
How much is it for a 1/2" deflection torque wrench?
A decent one will be around $50 I'm not sure the prices do vary quite a bit I know you can find them used for 20 to $40 on eBay for nice brands
Why don't you show one of them actually torquing something.
I definitely learned stuff ! Great video!
5:20 isnt that 120 inch pounds converted to 12 in pounds and the 120 would be 10 pounds.
Good video cat👍🏻
Thank you
@@CatusMaximus i got Half inch consolidated devices inc 1503bfp .. Never used it got it from my wife's father.. foot pounds 👌🏻
1 kilopond is equal to 9.80665 newton.
Tourqe is proportional to the cheater bar length and the intensity and number of grunts.
suitable for the lawnmower and the hinges on the door of your cave.................
That small one would go to 10 ft lbs
your video could have been done in les than 3 minutes! just saying!!!!
they used to be 3 hours...
Yeah. SK doesn't hire people that knowe howta spale gude.....or do Chrome plating that sticks...or design a decent pear head ratchet. MAGA....LOL