Anybody have experience with 3D One step and a yellow or white MF Pad? also how durable are these pads? What is the best speed on a 1-6 scale? If I use compressed air to clear the pad, how many pads do I need for a sedan?
there are tools to cut 1 and 2 inch pads out of any of your favorite pads and they are not that expensive also end up being much cheaper so get the tool and create your own favor pads 😜
How many of these you normally need to get one car done? And with German made cars (Audi-VW) from around 2004-2019, you probably need Blue MF with D-A Coarse to get little bit deeper than washing machine swirls off? At least blue wool didn't cut enough on some spots. And to get halo free finish, can you use yellow foam pad with D-A Fine, or is there too big leap? I have used blue wool + yellow foam 2 step for those German cars, and blue wool just don't get enough scratches off. And Finishing with yellow wool seem to leave halos for black paint, so yellow foam is needed.
And as an amateur consumer, I would love to see some kind of guide where you would show that how much each type of pad cuts vs. how well they finishes. I have seen one in your videos, but can't find it anymore. For example, if blue mf cuts more than blue wool, but finishes the same or even better.
Thanks for watching and commenting with your questions. - How many pads depends on several variables, but we typically recommend at least 4 per average sized car to keep performance consistent and to avoid over-working a pad. This video has some great recommendations on pad life and use: ruclips.net/video/m-PIDUzIIRY/видео.html - It is almost impossible to say specifically what pad would be needed in any particular situation simply because there are so many variables. Paint hardness, defect severity, tool choice, operator technique, etc. all impact the performance and are going to be different in every situation. If you were not seeing enough cut to address deeper defects with blue D-A Wool then maybe D-A Microfiber would be a better option on that particular car, but it does not mean that would be true in every situation. - Regarding "halos" with yellow wool: If you are seeing an artifact that is a patterned defect and not just a surface haze then there is a technique issue in your process that likely needs to be addressed.
Regarding the guide - the reason this isn't possible is for the reasons mentioned in the previous reply. VARIABLES. The cut and finish level of every pad is going to be different on hard paint vs. soft paint and every paint in between. Machine type (LHR21 vs. LHR15 vs. LK900E, etc) would have an impact. The liquids also have an impact. Providing such a "guide" would provide inaccurate information as the situation would be different for every user.
Hey @RUPES, hey chance you can do a video on do's and don'ts for Raised edges, Concave, Convex panels ? I want to get a Bigfoot, though the porsche 911 has some intricate panel shapes and I just don't want to burn through them.. I've seen some horror stories.. What does it take to burn an edge? any of those topics would be helpful! Thanks again. Love your videos
Great suggestion Richard. We'll add it to the future video topics list. In the meantime the best advice we can provide - Depending on the severity of the curve downsizing the tool/pad combo so a larger percentage of the pad is making contact is always the most effective method. When using a larger pad you'll be far less effective in these areas... it is literally the reason the smaller tools like the LHR75E Mini and iBrid Nano exist, to pick up the slack where the bigger tools don't perform as well. If you can't downsize or the curve is more gradual the goal is always to try to keep the middle of the pad as flat to the surface as possible. On something as curvy as a Porsche you will need to be constantly manipulating pad angle. It takes some practice, but once you're comfortable with it you'll start to do it without thinking. In terms of what it takes to burn an edge, we should first correctly characterize what you're referring to. "Burning" is a term that is misused in detailing. What you're more likely referring to is strike-through, in other words going thru the clear or clear and base into primer. It is not heat related so it really isn't 'burning' an edge. It can happen for any number of reasons, some within your control and some not. If an edge already has excessively thin paint you can strike thru relatively easily... heck... you could even do it by hand in some cases. The key is to never run along (parallel or on) a hard edge. Crossing an area like that briefly isn't generally all that dangerous, but prolonged work along a hard edge is. A random orbital is safer than something like a gear driven orbital or rotary in these scenarios because it will stall rotation. It is part of the safety built into the movement. The safest route is to stay off those types of edges entirely, especially if you don't have a good gauge for how much paint is there. Work toward edges from either side, right up to the edge, but not addressing the edge itself.
@@RUPES WOW... really appreciate the advice and the time you take to reply to our comments. Fantastic stuff. I just picked up a test panel to experiment.
Thanks for all your great videos. Just realized I wasn't "subscribed" but it consider it done now. You have great content and you do a great job with your professional level videos. Thanks again.
Somewhat by design Mark. The blue Extreme Cut pad is designed as a no compromises cutting pad and part of that is to have a substrate that maximizes the amount of the tools movement that makes it to the surface. To do that the foam is stiffer and also lower profile. That pad in particular isn't really ideal (or intended) for use over a full vehicle. It would excel more as a cutter for isolated deeper defects, mid-panel on very hard/heavily defected paints, etc. If you want a pad that contours the yellow or the white microfiber will accomplish that. The blue or yellow D-A Wool Pads are also excellent options if you need contouring.
@@RUPES there is a reason why most of my machines and pads from Rupes. you guys bought tons of awesome tools and products to market over the years so thank you rupes
Why don’t you guys have pads for the nano iBrid? 1-2inch MF pads would come in so clutch, plus Meguiars don’t make ‘em for 1-2inch so you guys would dominate that corner of the market
Dylan, thank you for the tip on how to clean fiber pads by using a vacuum. I had no idea that would work. I definitely would rather do that than listen to my air compressor tank constantly refilling with air.
We've seen good success using our wool (primarily the D-A Yellow) on any orbital tool. The movement combined with the longer fibers of that pad seems to get in between the texture of non-skid more effectively than foam or microfiber and "scrubs" the area. The choice of liquid is a variable based on what the goal is.
Would depend on what level of correction is needed. If mild, then something like DA Yellow Wool with DA Fine. If sanded or extremely defected then a more aggressive option in the coarse range would be needed.
Good video, however you didn't go over the 1 and only question I have. Why do some Rupes microfiber pads have holes in them? I've been looking at buying Rupes pads and some have these huge holes that go around the pad, and some don't. Why is that?
Everything. The previous generation slotted discs were a co-bonded urethane construction and there were only 2 grades of cutting. This new DA microfibers are 3 different foam backings and do not feature the slots, because the foam is reticulated (open cell) for cooling. The fabrics, the backing, and the materials are all new and different from the previous generation.
We do not recommend wet cleaning buckets for any of our pads or tools. This video outlines our official recommendations for cleaning. ruclips.net/video/SNdSdbtWdyk/видео.html
Not necessary really. The pad has a center hole, as does the backing pad, so it is easy to visually align the pad. Also, because it is an orbital tool, being perfectly centered is not as imperative as it would be on a rotary where even a slight misalignment can lead to heavy vibrations and wobble. With a large stroke random orbital tool, because the movement is already offset there is much less need to be perfectly aligned. Visually aligned is good enough and won't have any impact on performance.
@@RUPES what about if I use lake country pad washer? Still no need to prime ? 🤔 I basically wash them as you would do at the end of the day to get them ready for next project.
RUPES does not sell direct to consumer, so for pricing and purchase information you'll need to contact an authorized distributor. You can find links in the video description to our website and distributor locators.
Thank for the info. Where xan I send my machines for service. My LHR75 went out of brushes and I replace them but no power at all. My Mille is in good condition but I want her to get serviced also and i need a 5" backing plate for my Mille. Here in Puerto Rico they need to send it to you. Do I have a direct address to send my machines?
Not sure who that is, but distributors make their own decisions on what products they do/do not stock. It would be best to contact the distributor you're referencing and let them know you're interested. Maybe they'll bring them in or already have them on order.
@@RUPES The Rag Company. I've seen quite a few videos your brand had done with them, thought you might know if they will carry it. Love your foam pads, looking forward to these!
AH! TRC (your post said TRG) It would be best to check with them and see if they have submitted an order for the pads yet. Distributors are independent businesses and they make their own purchasing and stocking decisions.
Anybody have experience with 3D One step and a yellow or white MF Pad? also how durable are these pads? What is the best speed on a 1-6 scale? If I use compressed air to clear the pad, how many pads do I need for a sedan?
hi, have you tried combining 3d one and Rupes yellow or white mf pads?
Is there any reason you guys haven’t produced microfibre pads for the nano iBrid? Would love for you guys to produce this.
there are tools to cut 1 and 2 inch pads out of any of your favorite pads and they are not that expensive also end up being much cheaper so get the tool and create your own favor pads 😜
How many of these you normally need to get one car done?
And with German made cars (Audi-VW) from around 2004-2019, you probably need Blue MF with D-A Coarse to get little bit deeper than washing machine swirls off? At least blue wool didn't cut enough on some spots.
And to get halo free finish, can you use yellow foam pad with D-A Fine, or is there too big leap?
I have used blue wool + yellow foam 2 step for those German cars, and blue wool just don't get enough scratches off. And Finishing with yellow wool seem to leave halos for black paint, so yellow foam is needed.
And as an amateur consumer, I would love to see some kind of guide where you would show that how much each type of pad cuts vs. how well they finishes. I have seen one in your videos, but can't find it anymore. For example, if blue mf cuts more than blue wool, but finishes the same or even better.
Thanks for watching and commenting with your questions.
- How many pads depends on several variables, but we typically recommend at least 4 per average sized car to keep performance consistent and to avoid over-working a pad. This video has some great recommendations on pad life and use: ruclips.net/video/m-PIDUzIIRY/видео.html
- It is almost impossible to say specifically what pad would be needed in any particular situation simply because there are so many variables. Paint hardness, defect severity, tool choice, operator technique, etc. all impact the performance and are going to be different in every situation. If you were not seeing enough cut to address deeper defects with blue D-A Wool then maybe D-A Microfiber would be a better option on that particular car, but it does not mean that would be true in every situation.
- Regarding "halos" with yellow wool: If you are seeing an artifact that is a patterned defect and not just a surface haze then there is a technique issue in your process that likely needs to be addressed.
Regarding the guide - the reason this isn't possible is for the reasons mentioned in the previous reply. VARIABLES. The cut and finish level of every pad is going to be different on hard paint vs. soft paint and every paint in between. Machine type (LHR21 vs. LHR15 vs. LK900E, etc) would have an impact. The liquids also have an impact. Providing such a "guide" would provide inaccurate information as the situation would be different for every user.
Hey @RUPES, hey chance you can do a video on do's and don'ts for Raised edges, Concave, Convex panels ? I want to get a Bigfoot, though the porsche 911 has some intricate panel shapes and I just don't want to burn through them.. I've seen some horror stories.. What does it take to burn an edge? any of those topics would be helpful! Thanks again. Love your videos
Great suggestion Richard. We'll add it to the future video topics list.
In the meantime the best advice we can provide -
Depending on the severity of the curve downsizing the tool/pad combo so a larger percentage of the pad is making contact is always the most effective method. When using a larger pad you'll be far less effective in these areas... it is literally the reason the smaller tools like the LHR75E Mini and iBrid Nano exist, to pick up the slack where the bigger tools don't perform as well.
If you can't downsize or the curve is more gradual the goal is always to try to keep the middle of the pad as flat to the surface as possible. On something as curvy as a Porsche you will need to be constantly manipulating pad angle. It takes some practice, but once you're comfortable with it you'll start to do it without thinking.
In terms of what it takes to burn an edge, we should first correctly characterize what you're referring to. "Burning" is a term that is misused in detailing. What you're more likely referring to is strike-through, in other words going thru the clear or clear and base into primer. It is not heat related so it really isn't 'burning' an edge. It can happen for any number of reasons, some within your control and some not. If an edge already has excessively thin paint you can strike thru relatively easily... heck... you could even do it by hand in some cases. The key is to never run along (parallel or on) a hard edge. Crossing an area like that briefly isn't generally all that dangerous, but prolonged work along a hard edge is. A random orbital is safer than something like a gear driven orbital or rotary in these scenarios because it will stall rotation. It is part of the safety built into the movement. The safest route is to stay off those types of edges entirely, especially if you don't have a good gauge for how much paint is there. Work toward edges from either side, right up to the edge, but not addressing the edge itself.
@@RUPES WOW... really appreciate the advice and the time you take to reply to our comments. Fantastic stuff. I just picked up a test panel to experiment.
Thanks for all your great videos. Just realized I wasn't "subscribed" but it consider it done now. You have great content and you do a great job with your professional level videos. Thanks again.
Thank you for subscribing and we’re happy you enjoy the content. 👍🏻
Wow, I learned something new. I thought Wool cuts the best.
Nice pads, I’ve tried them all. Blue foam MF doesn’t contour well, however.
Somewhat by design Mark. The blue Extreme Cut pad is designed as a no compromises cutting pad and part of that is to have a substrate that maximizes the amount of the tools movement that makes it to the surface. To do that the foam is stiffer and also lower profile. That pad in particular isn't really ideal (or intended) for use over a full vehicle. It would excel more as a cutter for isolated deeper defects, mid-panel on very hard/heavily defected paints, etc. If you want a pad that contours the yellow or the white microfiber will accomplish that. The blue or yellow D-A Wool Pads are also excellent options if you need contouring.
@@RUPES there is a reason why most of my machines and pads from Rupes. you guys bought tons of awesome tools and products to market over the years so thank you rupes
Is microfiber longer lasting than foam? Which is recommended microfiber or foam for spot wet sanding small scratches? Thanks for the video.
Too many unknown variables in your question to provide an accurate answer.
I’m a weekend warrior and i just tried the yellow
Far superior to maguires (using it with rupes yellow polish)
Thank you for making this
Thank you so much for the compliment! We are glad you are enjoying your RUPES polishing system!
Why don’t you guys have pads for the nano iBrid? 1-2inch MF pads would come in so clutch, plus Meguiars don’t make ‘em for 1-2inch so you guys would dominate that corner of the market
Dylan, thank you for the tip on how to clean fiber pads by using a vacuum. I had no idea that would work. I definitely would rather do that than listen to my air compressor tank constantly refilling with air.
What Rupes system would you recommend for marine non skid??
We've seen good success using our wool (primarily the D-A Yellow) on any orbital tool. The movement combined with the longer fibers of that pad seems to get in between the texture of non-skid more effectively than foam or microfiber and "scrubs" the area. The choice of liquid is a variable based on what the goal is.
Is this Ivan Lacroix son?
Clear, concise explanation. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Τhe old one's...were great... I've ordered the new ones...and can't wait to try them...🤩🤩🤟🤟💯
Enjoy!
Can the yellow pad be used for finishing on hard paints?
Any of these pads could be used for finishing on harder paints. That is the type of surface that microfiber performs its best on.
Great vid as always guys. We need the Uno Advanced webinar soon guys 😉
Thank you, and our technical team is working on it.
Great video.
This the video i have been waiting for.
Thank you.
Thanks. Glad it was helpful.
what pads to use to polish headlights and what paste
Would depend on what level of correction is needed. If mild, then something like DA Yellow Wool with DA Fine. If sanded or extremely defected then a more aggressive option in the coarse range would be needed.
Good video, however you didn't go over the 1 and only question I have. Why do some Rupes microfiber pads have holes in them? I've been looking at buying Rupes pads and some have these huge holes that go around the pad, and some don't. Why is that?
Those are the previous generation of our microfiber pads, so it wasn’t relevant to address questions about those in this video.
What are the difference between these and the spiral ones?
Everything.
The previous generation slotted discs were a co-bonded urethane construction and there were only 2 grades of cutting. This new DA microfibers are 3 different foam backings and do not feature the slots, because the foam is reticulated (open cell) for cooling. The fabrics, the backing, and the materials are all new and different from the previous generation.
Still trying to find the size of the big foot types 21
Awesome pads, had a chance to see them in action already!
Glad you like them!
Can you clean these new microfiber pads with the Lake Country System 4000 pad washer during paint correction?
We do not recommend wet cleaning buckets for any of our pads or tools. This video outlines our official recommendations for cleaning. ruclips.net/video/SNdSdbtWdyk/видео.html
Is there a tool that can be used to place in the backplate hole to align the pad onto the backing plate evenly?
Not necessary really. The pad has a center hole, as does the backing pad, so it is easy to visually align the pad. Also, because it is an orbital tool, being perfectly centered is not as imperative as it would be on a rotary where even a slight misalignment can lead to heavy vibrations and wobble. With a large stroke random orbital tool, because the movement is already offset there is much less need to be perfectly aligned. Visually aligned is good enough and won't have any impact on performance.
@@RUPES Cool. Thanks for the response.
After cleaning your pad while still using, is it recommended to prime again or just add what is needed for the next section?
With any pad, you only prime on the first application. Once the pad is primed you only need a few drops for each subsequent application.
@@RUPES Thank you very much for the information!!!!!
@@RUPES what about if I use lake country pad washer? Still no need to prime ? 🤔 I basically wash them as you would do at the end of the day to get them ready for next project.
@@granddetailing damp pad spreads product much easier so no priming just use little more polish each time
@@bekiro28 thanks, I appreciate that!
Where’s the link to purchase?
RUPES does not sell direct to consumer, so for pricing and purchase information you'll need to contact an authorized distributor. You can find links in the video description to our website and distributor locators.
@@RUPES Thank you! I found them from a distributor. Ordering some products now.
Thank for the info.
Where xan I send my machines for service.
My LHR75 went out of brushes and I replace them but no power at all.
My Mille is in good condition but I want her to get serviced also and i need a 5" backing plate for my Mille. Here in Puerto Rico they need to send it to you. Do I have a direct address to send my machines?
Send a message to our offices via the contact information in the video description and we can assist you.
@@RUPES thanks a lot
Will TRG be carrying these?
Not sure who that is, but distributors make their own decisions on what products they do/do not stock. It would be best to contact the distributor you're referencing and let them know you're interested. Maybe they'll bring them in or already have them on order.
@@RUPES The Rag Company. I've seen quite a few videos your brand had done with them, thought you might know if they will carry it. Love your foam pads, looking forward to these!
AH! TRC (your post said TRG) It would be best to check with them and see if they have submitted an order for the pads yet. Distributors are independent businesses and they make their own purchasing and stocking decisions.
These available to purchase now?
Available in several markets currently, and they just began shipping to distributors in the USA. Several of them already have them in stock.
@@RUPES do you know which stores already have them ?
@@Mikey186971 the only vendor I've seen in the USA that carry them is Detailed Image. They don't have all sizes, though.
DA Dool action...
Great video
Thanks for the comment! Glad you enjoyed it!
Can you use the original polish with the new DA pads? Any potential issues using the older polish?
No issues, but the newer formulas are much higher performing, so when you're ready to make the change expect better performance from the new versions!
@@RUPES Thanks. I think I to buy one of each bottle (blue, yellow and the whites) to work with the new pads.
When will the pads available in Indonesia?
Contact distributors in your region and they should be able to give you an anticipated arrival date for their locations