Another excellent video from Mike Phillips. At the end of the day it is easy to not clean the pads but it is a very important part of the process. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for commenting Neil and I agree. At the end of the day, after you've been working all day on someone's car, you're tired and ready to call it a day. But the best time to clean any type of pad is when whatever the product you've been using is still in a wet form. It's always worth the time to do it right the first time, (clean pads while they are still wet with product), versus let it go. -Mike
I’m not a rotary user, but learning is learning. I agree, using a screwdriver is definitely not a good idea. A guy I used to work with used that method. Great video, Mike. Be well.
Yeah, I always need to work on remembering to put on my nitrile gloves. When I started detailing, I don't think nitrile gloves are as common as they are today. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillps
I like your videos - and how you explain things. I have a couple of possibly silly questions. When using the spur, does the compound need to be relatively dry when cleaning the wool pad, or can it be cleaned with the "spur" almost straight after using the pad and compound? Additionally, for us poor woodworkers, do you think the spur can clean wax product off the woolen pad? So many questions - finally, what if the pad has been sitting with uncleaned compound for a crazy long time (e.g., 1 year) - will the spur work, or should one just replace the wool pad in that case. Thank you.
Hi Peter, let me take a stab at your questions. *When using the spur, does the compound need to be relatively dry when cleaning the wool pad, or can it be cleaned with the "spur" almost straight after using the pad and compound?* You can spur a pad at any time. The pad will tend to clean better when dry, because the paint and compound residue can separate from the fibers and off the pad. That said, I spur my pad as much or more than anyone I've ever met and this is to say, I spur my pad often when buffing out a car. I spur after every section I buff. It's important to not only try to remove some of the paint and compound residue that builds-up on the pad, but to also re-fluff the fibers for a more efficient and controlled cutting action. *Additionally, for us poor woodworkers, do you think the spur can clean wax product off the woolen pad?* The answer is "yes"' but the only time you would or should be using a product with *WAX* in it would be when you're using a CLEANER/WAX also referred to as an AIO or All-in-One type product. But the answer is yes. And like I mentioned above, wool pads will tend to clean better when they are dry versus wet with product. But you should still clean wet pads as you work around a car. *What if the pad has been sitting with uncleaned compound for a crazy long time (e.g., 1 year) - will the spur work, or should one just replace the wool pad in that case.* I would spur that pad and as long as after spurring the fibers look good, then I would continue to use it. In most cases, the VELCRO hook-and-loop material on the back of the pad will wear out before the fibers. Great questions, thank you for asking. Thanks for watching, commenting and asking questions. -Mike Phillips
How often should you be wet washing the pad? At the end of the day or everyother?. Can you go over 2 different colors of gel coat with the same pad? Great video thanks for all the help.
New into Detailing forget that the pads get gunked up because they can't see the pads have clear coat because it is clear, but it is there and with the air or spur they will see all coming off becauseof the mix of compound.
Exactly my friend. This is why I used the red single stage paint on the wool pad to make the analogy that you have the same volume of paint building up on wool pads when buffing on clearcoat paints, you just don't see it. -Mike
Great video mike. What’s your expected life of A wool pad? For gel coat I find about 2 whole boats in the 20 to 25ft length is about it. Then the cut is diminished, I am working harder, and leaving swirls. At $15 +/- a pad or $4 per side of a boat seems palatable.
With cars you can get maybe a dozen cars when buffing hard and doing the entire car. After that it's toast. With boats, maybe up to 6 boats. The most important thing is to clean your pad often and if you have extra pads, swap out to a fresh dry pad and then at the end of the day, wash all pads and set out to air dry. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
It's NEVER a method I used, but because other people like and use this method I included it. One thing though, where I wash cars, the concrete is clean enough you can eat off of it from the continual rinsing. I also blow it out with my EGO Leaf Blower, so tiny rocks would be the least of my worries. But again, I don't use a pressure washer to wash wool pads - others do. Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Yes, this is how I've always washed my pads. In FACT, in my classes I share that in every town, there's a business called, *A-Z Appliance Repair* Call these people and tell they you want to buy an old-school TOP LOADING washing machine with an AGITATOR that goes NUTS! This type of washing machine will get pads clean. All modern washing machines are worthless. But just to note Frank, while I wash and dry my wool and foam pads in a conventional washer and dryer - THIS VIDEO is for all the people that can't or won't use a traditional washer and dry. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
Thanks for watching. I agree and personally, I never wash pads with a pressure washer. I included this technique because some people do use it and others will use it once they watch this video. To each their own. Me? I purposefully purchased and OLD SCHOOL top loading washing machine with an agitator that goes NUTS and I use this to wash all our foam and wool pads. They come out GREAT. And keep in mind, because I'm teaching classes - I have LOTS of pads to wash, so using a dedicated pad washer is a better option if you want to be as safe as possible with your pads - but the scale or volume of pads I have to wash - the old school washing machine is more practical. -Mike Phillips
I have watched about 10 other videos and thisone was the first to actually show me how to clean a pad easily, thank you.
"... don't follow me for safety advice." 😅
Thank you for this video. It's great.
LOL
Thanks for watching. -Mike Phillips
Another excellent video from Mike Phillips. At the end of the day it is easy to not clean the pads but it is a very important part of the process. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for commenting Neil and I agree. At the end of the day, after you've been working all day on someone's car, you're tired and ready to call it a day. But the best time to clean any type of pad is when whatever the product you've been using is still in a wet form. It's always worth the time to do it right the first time, (clean pads while they are still wet with product), versus let it go. -Mike
I’m not a rotary user, but learning is learning. I agree, using a screwdriver is definitely not a good idea. A guy I used to work with used that method.
Great video, Mike. Be well.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
All good points Mike! Glad to see you with DR B, best wishes.
Thank you for watching! -Mike
"Don't follow me for safety advice" I like that. I'm going to appropriate that line.
Yeah, I always need to work on remembering to put on my nitrile gloves. When I started detailing, I don't think nitrile gloves are as common as they are today.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillps
Great vid :) Handy to put the wool pad in a bucket with grit guard when pressure washing it.
I like your videos - and how you explain things. I have a couple of possibly silly questions. When using the spur, does the compound need to be relatively dry when cleaning the wool pad, or can it be cleaned with the "spur" almost straight after using the pad and compound? Additionally, for us poor woodworkers, do you think the spur can clean wax product off the woolen pad? So many questions - finally, what if the pad has been sitting with uncleaned compound for a crazy long time (e.g., 1 year) - will the spur work, or should one just replace the wool pad in that case. Thank you.
Hi Peter, let me take a stab at your questions.
*When using the spur, does the compound need to be relatively dry when cleaning the wool pad, or can it be cleaned with the "spur" almost straight after using the pad and compound?*
You can spur a pad at any time. The pad will tend to clean better when dry, because the paint and compound residue can separate from the fibers and off the pad. That said, I spur my pad as much or more than anyone I've ever met and this is to say, I spur my pad often when buffing out a car. I spur after every section I buff. It's important to not only try to remove some of the paint and compound residue that builds-up on the pad, but to also re-fluff the fibers for a more efficient and controlled cutting action.
*Additionally, for us poor woodworkers, do you think the spur can clean wax product off the woolen pad?*
The answer is "yes"' but the only time you would or should be using a product with *WAX* in it would be when you're using a CLEANER/WAX also referred to as an AIO or All-in-One type product. But the answer is yes. And like I mentioned above, wool pads will tend to clean better when they are dry versus wet with product. But you should still clean wet pads as you work around a car.
*What if the pad has been sitting with uncleaned compound for a crazy long time (e.g., 1 year) - will the spur work, or should one just replace the wool pad in that case.*
I would spur that pad and as long as after spurring the fibers look good, then I would continue to use it. In most cases, the VELCRO hook-and-loop material on the back of the pad will wear out before the fibers.
Great questions, thank you for asking.
Thanks for watching, commenting and asking questions. -Mike Phillips
How often should you be wet washing the pad? At the end of the day or everyother?. Can you go over 2 different colors of gel coat with the same pad? Great video thanks for all the help.
Love this. Thank you
New into Detailing forget that the pads get gunked up because they can't see the pads have clear coat because it is clear, but it is there and with the air or spur they will see all coming off becauseof the mix of compound.
Exactly my friend. This is why I used the red single stage paint on the wool pad to make the analogy that you have the same volume of paint building up on wool pads when buffing on clearcoat paints, you just don't see it. -Mike
Thanks for the video mike!
Thanks for watching! -Mike
Great video mike. What’s your expected life of A wool pad? For gel coat I find about 2 whole boats in the 20 to 25ft length is about it. Then the cut is diminished, I am working harder, and leaving swirls. At $15 +/- a pad or $4 per side of a boat seems palatable.
With cars you can get maybe a dozen cars when buffing hard and doing the entire car. After that it's toast. With boats, maybe up to 6 boats. The most important thing is to clean your pad often and if you have extra pads, swap out to a fresh dry pad and then at the end of the day, wash all pads and set out to air dry.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Thank you Mike
What size backing plate and wool pad are you using for the flex rotary?
That was a 7.5" 4-ply, twisted wool pad on a 6" backing plate.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Where to buy good double sided whoolpad in canada,québec?
Can't help you there but any PBE store should be able to get you 3M pads
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Ultimate video sir super sir
Wow! Thank you for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Just worried about the pressure washing method. Small rocks and sand might get into the pad from the ground surface !!!
It's NEVER a method I used, but because other people like and use this method I included it. One thing though, where I wash cars, the concrete is clean enough you can eat off of it from the continual rinsing. I also blow it out with my EGO Leaf Blower, so tiny rocks would be the least of my worries. But again, I don't use a pressure washer to wash wool pads - others do.
Thanks for watching and commenting! -Mike Phillips
Mike hot water and washing machine,tide
Frank in Oswego,ill
Put them in the dryer med or high
Yes, this is how I've always washed my pads. In FACT, in my classes I share that in every town, there's a business called,
*A-Z Appliance Repair*
Call these people and tell they you want to buy an old-school TOP LOADING washing machine with an AGITATOR that goes NUTS! This type of washing machine will get pads clean. All modern washing machines are worthless.
But just to note Frank, while I wash and dry my wool and foam pads in a conventional washer and dryer - THIS VIDEO is for all the people that can't or won't use a traditional washer and dry.
Thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
First!!!!
Golly, he forgot the warning about using your knee to hold your buffer. If your slip it'll take your leg off lol
You funny. But thanks for watching and commenting. -Mike Phillips
That last method is not a good idea at all. So now you have grit and dirt in your pad from the driveway and the wool pad is damaged. Great
Thanks for watching. I agree and personally, I never wash pads with a pressure washer. I included this technique because some people do use it and others will use it once they watch this video. To each their own. Me? I purposefully purchased and OLD SCHOOL top loading washing machine with an agitator that goes NUTS and I use this to wash all our foam and wool pads. They come out GREAT.
And keep in mind, because I'm teaching classes - I have LOTS of pads to wash, so using a dedicated pad washer is a better option if you want to be as safe as possible with your pads - but the scale or volume of pads I have to wash - the old school washing machine is more practical.
-Mike Phillips