I’m going through this install right now and for the life of me.. I can’t get the second pump to turn on with compressed air. I’ve followed this video exactly how it’s supposed to go lol.
Hey man quick question so I have the same setup with the Hobbs switch and even though I’m tuned for 40 psi I don’t get into much boost and my car stays in the garage mostly but recently I noticed my primary pump is discoloring the fuse which I get is caused by excess heat and resistance but I checked my wiring and there’s no corrosion or broken wires but the only thing I found was a very tiny amount of play in the secondary pump so I tightened the nut but is there a way to test the fuel pump itself? My fuel pressure is 50 psi which I’m turned for so it’s not losing pressure and I’ve had these dual pumps on the car for about 2 and half years so they are kinda old.
The signal has to be hooked up to both pumps that way the first pump runs as normal and then depending on what you set your Hobbs switch to (psi) wise will kick on after that. I have mine set to I think 5psi. After the 5 psi it will create a connection and turn that secondary pump on. I spliced my ground and put my switch there.
I would not wire it for how Michael is saying for a couple reasons but this is how I would wire it. So you will have a Hobbs switch and quality, 5 pin automotive relay. On your Hobbs switch, one side should go to a keyed, +12VDC and the other side of the Hobbs switch should run to pin 85 on your automotive relay. Pin 86 should go to a ground. Pin 30 should go to high amp, +12VDC source. Pin 87 should go to the + side of your secondary pump. Pin 87a is unused. This way your Hobbs switch circuit is not caring the higher amperage for your pump and giving it a longer life cycle.
@@michaelgettle1977 ty bro, last one 😂 did you run a 12v from battery and trigger wire all the way from trunk to the bay or did u source a 12v from the bay?
@@40Rollx I ran a wire from one of the 2 relays in the trunk all the way to the engine bay and made the switch under my intake filter that way I could pop that filter off and adjust the settings on the switch if I had to
Well I still reply if I have questions after years of this post 🙈
I’m going through this install right now and for the life of me.. I can’t get the second pump to turn on with compressed air.
I’ve followed this video exactly how it’s supposed to go lol.
I don’t use this account much anymore. If you have questions. Mikegettle_evox on instagram. I can answer questions
Hey buddy I'm currently doing this job on my buschir double w / 450s how exactly did you do the Hobbs switch relay?
Hey man quick question so I have the same setup with the Hobbs switch and even though I’m tuned for 40 psi I don’t get into much boost and my car stays in the garage mostly but recently I noticed my primary pump is discoloring the fuse which I get is caused by excess heat and resistance but I checked my wiring and there’s no corrosion or broken wires but the only thing I found was a very tiny amount of play in the secondary pump so I tightened the nut but is there a way to test the fuel pump itself? My fuel pressure is 50 psi which I’m turned for so it’s not losing pressure and I’ve had these dual pumps on the car for about 2 and half years so they are kinda old.
You could hook up one pump at a time and key on and watch the gauge. The second pump only works in boost depending on what you have is set at.
Do you need relay for each pump? Assuming that’s why you have two?
Yep. One for each pump
Wouldn't the Hobbs run the signal wire on the secondary pump?...
The signal has to be hooked up to both pumps that way the first pump runs as normal and then depending on what you set your Hobbs switch to (psi) wise will kick on after that. I have mine set to I think 5psi. After the 5 psi it will create a connection and turn that secondary pump on. I spliced my ground and put my switch there.
I would not wire it for how Michael is saying for a couple reasons but this is how I would wire it. So you will have a Hobbs switch and quality, 5 pin automotive relay. On your Hobbs switch, one side should go to a keyed, +12VDC and the other side of the Hobbs switch should run to pin 85 on your automotive relay. Pin 86 should go to a ground. Pin 30 should go to high amp, +12VDC source. Pin 87 should go to the + side of your secondary pump. Pin 87a is unused. This way your Hobbs switch circuit is not caring the higher amperage for your pump and giving it a longer life cycle.
what boost reference did you use?
For the Hobbs switch?
@@michaelgettle1977 yessir, i’m tryna install mine soon.
@@40Rollx I just hooked mine up to the intake and put a T so I could run both my blow off valve and the Hobbs switch.
@@michaelgettle1977 ty bro, last one 😂 did you run a 12v from battery and trigger wire all the way from trunk to the bay or did u source a 12v from the bay?
@@40Rollx I ran a wire from one of the 2 relays in the trunk all the way to the engine bay and made the switch under my intake filter that way I could pop that filter off and adjust the settings on the switch if I had to
What double pumper setup is that?
Radium
@@michaelgettle1977 just saw it after watching until the end lol
It’s a pretty solid set up but thats their older one. they have a new one out now
@@michaelgettle1977 the newer one doesn’t use that huge bracket correct
@@MotoDJS1KRR yep it’s like a slim version