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You could hook up one pump at a time and key on and watch the gauge. The second pump only works in boost depending on what you have is set at.

Stock ecu but I’d advise against it

@michaelgettle1977 any codes you had to erase? check in lights etc..?

There were plenty of codes but to be honest the reason the channel stopped is because 2k later in tuning and multiple people later. nobody was able to tune the car. Had it on the dyno on the stock ecu drivability was terrible/undrivable. All depends on what’s done to the car also though

@@michaelgettle1977 how come you didn't go with a Syvecs or Motec plug and play ECU?

Thousands of dollars lol long story short just after my last video we decided to move to Florida got it tuned down here and that didn’t work out. Started up a bunch of other stuff here and that’s about it. I have lots of connections now in performance world here so I’ll be doing a stand-alone soon

I’m going through this install right now and for the life of me.. I can’t get the second pump to turn on with compressed air. I’ve followed this video exactly how it’s supposed to go lol.

I don’t use this account much anymore. If you have questions. Mikegettle_evox on instagram. I can answer questions

For now no I’m focusing on my evo customers. Hoping to pick back up on the car again since my move

I believe stmtuned

It was at my old work

It is definitely not cheap lol

I’m in Florida now lol but I highly recommend doing the swap

Not entirely sure but my guess is that it would/should fit

Like content wise?

@@michaelgettle1977 yeah man. Need more evo content aha

@@zAce31 been meaning to post again but I moved and now working into opening a evo shop. Don’t have time to work on my own anymore lol

I switched tuners 😂 that was my problem. set your mivec gear at 0 degrees. I’m hoping to start doing videos here again and give an update on everything

@@michaelgettle1977 well i did switch tuner too first got a base map and the car barely run and kept stalling on stop sign when and i only got 2 revision from this guy not naming names he then blame my intake mivec being off , i tried doing it myself, with the help evanstuning academy watch his video i finally got the car to idle good and able to drive around to break in the motor its not perfect as it's still base map, next month im schedule for a tune hoping everything will go well

Good deal if you have any other questions you can message me on my Instagram mikegettle_evox I’m curious on who you are going with tuner wise

I still have it a lot of life decisions happened and will be bringing it back very soon

The signal has to be hooked up to both pumps that way the first pump runs as normal and then depending on what you set your Hobbs switch to (psi) wise will kick on after that. I have mine set to I think 5psi. After the 5 psi it will create a connection and turn that secondary pump on. I spliced my ground and put my switch there.

I would not wire it for how Michael is saying for a couple reasons but this is how I would wire it. So you will have a Hobbs switch and quality, 5 pin automotive relay. On your Hobbs switch, one side should go to a keyed, +12VDC and the other side of the Hobbs switch should run to pin 85 on your automotive relay. Pin 86 should go to a ground. Pin 30 should go to high amp, +12VDC source. Pin 87 should go to the + side of your secondary pump. Pin 87a is unused. This way your Hobbs switch circuit is not caring the higher amperage for your pump and giving it a longer life cycle.

Hell yeah it’s a fun project to get into. These engines are pretty easy to build a make some good numbers.

Yea it be awhile longer bout to pay car off and need to buy a house so it’s on hold. But will be back on soon hopefully

I respect the grind. Priorities first definitely

They did a good job forsure

Yes

For the acd/ayc to be deleted?

@@michaelgettle1977 Yes the acd/ayc is it better for car if it's deleted.

@@tylerhastings8308 not necessarily. it’s just they can be spendy to keep replacing and I already had most of the swap. For me it just made sense with mine since it already failed and the x having a weaker rear diff also. They are great units when functioning properly. If it’s not broken I would keep it.

@@michaelgettle1977 oh ok my as well keep it I was gonna tune to 1400 HP for doing track racing,drag racing and a daily driver.

Thanks. That was actually at my old work. a lot has happened since then I will be coming out with some updates hopefully here soon

Very nice 👍

Yes

I’m in Florida now

Yes I do

Radium

@@michaelgettle1977 just saw it after watching until the end lol

It’s a pretty solid set up but thats their older one. they have a new one out now

@@michaelgettle1977 the newer one doesn’t use that huge bracket correct

@@MotoDJS1KRR yep it’s like a slim version

I don’t remember how go the top of my head I just used the trans bolt to match them up.

@@michaelgettle1977 Okay no worries, seems like the thing to do. I'm refreshing a motor before dropping my current engine so I don't have the trans bolt to hand.

@@michaelgettle1977 thanks for the reply anyhow

Yep. One for each pump

Lol thanks dude I appreciate it

Thank you 👍

@@michaelgettle1977 Did you have to bleed the AYC/ACD pump after loosing fluid and looping the line? Or did you just refill and call it a day?

@@Maty1t I just looped it and called it a day but my pump is also fried. I don’t believe you would have to bleed the ayc but I could be wrong

Very nice I think my days of using ots maps are long gone lol

Yes I am very soon a have been working on moving the last few months.

@@michaelgettle1977 you moved from hayward?

@@JohnCena-kn9tv yep we moved to Florida this morning

@@michaelgettle1977 good luck out there

Yeah it was not fun at all lol I had to take the clip out because it doesn’t just pop on like it says. Once the clip is out it will pop on and then you have to try to put the pin back in

any advice, im struggling 🥲

Yeah I know it’s not ready to be driven really yet I’m deleting the pump all together and controlling the front diff manually

@@michaelgettle1977 manually? Do explain? As there's a hydraulic clutch pack in there.

@@MitchChubey I’ll be doing a video on it in the future

Im late but I'm very interested in this as well. I trying to delete mine in my dedicated racecar. If there's a way to delete the pump and keep the center diff engaged plus fill me in

There is a way canton racing. Use a accusump. You can use it with a solenoid or manual lever.

For the Hobbs switch?

@@michaelgettle1977 yessir, i’m tryna install mine soon.

@@40Rollx I just hooked mine up to the intake and put a T so I could run both my blow off valve and the Hobbs switch.

@@michaelgettle1977 ty bro, last one 😂 did you run a 12v from battery and trigger wire all the way from trunk to the bay or did u source a 12v from the bay?

@@40Rollx I ran a wire from one of the 2 relays in the trunk all the way to the engine bay and made the switch under my intake filter that way I could pop that filter off and adjust the settings on the switch if I had to

Yep I’m still on the stock ECU. You shouldn’t have to change anything but the cam gears and the sensors out to plugs that come with the gears. You also don’t have to do both deletes. I would do the recommended exhaust side bare minimum though. I had to play with the timing adjustments on mine to get the car to run right.

@@michaelgettle1977 thanks!

No problem 👍

Yeah I do and stick head parts also. Send me a pm on Instagram we can work something out mikegettle_evox

@@michaelgettle1977 Hi, i just encounter this video, and im willing to buy the used crankshaft please