Nice work, John. Easy to follow and a necessary mod for any big power car. I have few suggestions or things you didn't mention. First, you should use a bulkhead fitting to go through the top hat. It will have rubber insulation inside to eliminate the chance of the wire ever chaffing and shorting on the fuel pump assembly, plus it creates a vapor seal. You can get them for around $10 if you search fuel cell electrical bulkhead. Your install should be fine, but this is more a tip for anyone reading. Second, make sure wherever you ground the relay that it is touching bare metal. I didn't see if you sanded off the paint where you bolted the connection, but you should ideally have bare metal under the connector itself and on the other side where the nut or washer touches down. If not, it may work at first, but you'll end up with intermittent issue later. Third, this is just a suggestion to increase wiring reliability, especially in the engine bay. Get a set of ratcheting crimpers specifically designed for heat shrink connectors and a box of various connectors. The crimpers work so much better than standard and make reliable connections. The heat shrink insulation with glue adds strain relief and water proofing. Take this all as just adding on to your video of course, not criticism. I have been slowly acquiring lots of wiring tips and tools over time. Gotta spread the knowledge.
I would’ve ran an 8 gauge wire to auxiliary fuse block either in the bay or under the dash. Then send power to the pump from the aux block. This gives you the advantage of having a bunch of extra power sources instead of adding wires to the battery
Great that you made this video because there is not much to find about that topic. Good arguments in the reactions to protect the wires at the fuel pomp. So we can learn from each other. Keep up the good work and still make these kind of video's. Greetz from Belgium and a happy new year 😉
John, your right there are NO good or any videos covering THIS topic. You did an EXCELLENT job on video. Painless Wiring Company ALSO makes an EXCELLENT fuel pump relay kit. It's a great price and works just as good. I Used their brand on my 94 EG hatch for twin Bosch 044's. The DW kit you have John looks really quality as well.
Did I have to do the same thing on my EK Honda? I have N/A high compression little bit bigger camps and little bit stronger fuel pump I changed the main relay two times already if I go for upgrade on the relay, am I gonna resolve the issue?
what sort of connections and insulation do you use for in tank being able to handle E85? Also regarding the wires that come with this kit, you send the yellow down into the tank, are they E85/Unleaded safe? Or are they just a basic automotive insulation wire?
i have an ep3 so i was wondering if instead of connecting the power wire directly to the pump on the inside of the tank, can i just splice it into the connector on the top of the fuel module? like cut the power in the harness and run it to the wire directly to the pump side of the harness
Yes, but then you are relying on the pin in the connector and the final length of skinny wire inside the tank to carry the current. It's usually the connector pin and/or housing that fails from excessive heat under high current loads. Your solution will work and can be reliable, it delivers higher average voltage than the factory wiring, but it can have reliability issues down the road. Look into fuel cell electrical bulkhead fittings.
Nice videos man. No one really have a easy install video for hondas. One question. For the ground coming from the fuel pump connector. Did you just attach it to the assembly that drops in the tank just like how it is stock?
If you don’t have a trigger signal in case in my case for my 66 VW bug , I can wire a positive lead to a switch to turn off and on power to mimic a trigger signal to the blue wire to activate that relay correct I think I just answered my own question I can. lol 🤔
You think this can help with my issue with my Honda because I change my fuel pump and main relay it didn’t want to turn on I also change my distributor also still doesn’t turn on it only cranks that’s all
Hey how did you get the AN fittings on the fuel pump cover?. can you make a video on that I wanna do the same so I can run AN lines from the tank to the front and back. Thx
@@4door_papi I ran 3mm thin wall wire (awg 13) to a fuel pump, positive and ground from bulkhead, 12metres total length. Battery voltage at idle was 13.9volts, voltage at fuel pump was only 12.4 volts. Upgraded 3mm to 4mm (12 awg) and voltage increased to 13.1 volts
@6:44 suppose u had a problem with your oem white green wire, and you wanted to replace all of it instead of tap into the end of it? Where does it come from?
Please please PLEASE disconnect that immediately John. The wire running through the fuel pump lid is going to chafe on that metal and short out. This is a HUGE fire hazard! You need to use a grommet or insulated stud for this
Hi John, I would remove the Amazon link that you provided for the fuel pump relay kit. I followed the link and purchased 2, one for myself and one as a Christmas gift for a friend. The image displayed is exactly what you used in your video, but what shows up in the mail is nothing like what you used in the video. It’s basically a pig tail and a universal pump sock. I went back to the listing after realizing there’s been a mistake and there’s multiple reviews about the false advertisement and not receiving what is pictured. Wish I’d have read it first but this is one time that I just really didn’t think I had to double check since I was following the link you gave us.
@@boosted_johnyou’re welcome. After messaging the company they admit it was an issue on their end, they apologized and immediately issued a refund since they didn’t have the rewire kit in stock to send me. Customer service was really good.
RUN A VOLTAGE METTER WHEN RUNNING CAR I CAN GUARANTEE THERE MORE VOLTAGE DROP NOW THEN YOUR STOCK WIRING SINCE YOU EXTENDED WIRES AND TWISTED WIRES TOGETHER THIS WILL LEAD TO VOLTAGE DROP IN HI RPMS
The correct way is NOT to drill a hole in the cover. The correct way is to remove where the white plug is and put a fitting that the wires go through it into the tank.
Hi @boosted_john, is the fuse a 25amp capacity? Is the relay a 40amp? I wanna create my own, but I'm out of the States, need it for my 97 supercharged 4Runner 😈😉👉
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice work, John. Easy to follow and a necessary mod for any big power car. I have few suggestions or things you didn't mention.
First, you should use a bulkhead fitting to go through the top hat. It will have rubber insulation inside to eliminate the chance of the wire ever chaffing and shorting on the fuel pump assembly, plus it creates a vapor seal. You can get them for around $10 if you search fuel cell electrical bulkhead. Your install should be fine, but this is more a tip for anyone reading.
Second, make sure wherever you ground the relay that it is touching bare metal. I didn't see if you sanded off the paint where you bolted the connection, but you should ideally have bare metal under the connector itself and on the other side where the nut or washer touches down. If not, it may work at first, but you'll end up with intermittent issue later.
Third, this is just a suggestion to increase wiring reliability, especially in the engine bay. Get a set of ratcheting crimpers specifically designed for heat shrink connectors and a box of various connectors. The crimpers work so much better than standard and make reliable connections. The heat shrink insulation with glue adds strain relief and water proofing.
Take this all as just adding on to your video of course, not criticism. I have been slowly acquiring lots of wiring tips and tools over time. Gotta spread the knowledge.
Casually finally understanding some electrical concepts 2am on a Friday…thanks John😎
Dude well done! Extremely helpful!! I searched a few months ago for a video like this and nothing. And then you did it. Thanks again!!
I would’ve ran an 8 gauge wire to auxiliary fuse block either in the bay or under the dash. Then send power to the pump from the aux block. This gives you the advantage of having a bunch of extra power sources instead of adding wires to the battery
Great that you made this video because there is not much to find about that topic. Good arguments in the reactions to protect the wires at the fuel pomp. So we can learn from each other. Keep up the good work and still make these kind of video's. Greetz from Belgium and a happy new year 😉
You should do these more! Cause I have an eg hatch as well so it helps out!
John, your right there are NO good or any videos covering THIS topic. You did an EXCELLENT job on video. Painless Wiring Company ALSO makes an EXCELLENT fuel pump relay kit. It's a great price and works just as good. I Used their brand on my 94 EG hatch for twin Bosch 044's. The DW kit you have John looks really quality as well.
Well explained. Its always better to have relays running high output components like fuel pumps / cooling fans and ofcourse the vtec solenoid
I appreciate you, I’m literally about to start this same process and you posted this video right in time for me to prepare myself
you just saved my first start from so much struggle thank you!
Great tutorial, it really simplified the process! 👍
Thank you. Definitely cleared up some questions iv had. I feel confident doing this fuel pump relay now!
Very good video as always. Keep up the good work 👍
Thanks for helping us learn lots of useful things by uploading videon of your build. It really helps.
keep it going john fr😊❤
John, good thoughts here. On your next install can you please use rubber grommets when going thru metal to reduce chafing/shorts.
Well played sir....well played
Great video , thank you
Thanks John
Best tutorial. 🤝🏽
Good Info thanks
Did I have to do the same thing on my EK Honda? I have N/A high compression little bit bigger camps and little bit stronger fuel pump I changed the main relay two times already if I go for upgrade on the relay, am I gonna resolve the issue?
what sort of connections and insulation do you use for in tank being able to handle E85? Also regarding the wires that come with this kit, you send the yellow down into the tank, are they E85/Unleaded safe? Or are they just a basic automotive insulation wire?
Great video John! LY ❤️
So if I wanted to use this setup on a toggle switch would I just wire the switch on the blue wire?
Check ECU n and look good not burnt or broken
Thank you joung brother!
Great content
You’ve been doing all this without this? Wow
Awesome video
i have an ep3 so i was wondering if instead of connecting the power wire directly to the pump on the inside of the tank, can i just splice it into the connector on the top of the fuel module? like cut the power in the harness and run it to the wire directly to the pump side of the harness
Yes, but then you are relying on the pin in the connector and the final length of skinny wire inside the tank to carry the current. It's usually the connector pin and/or housing that fails from excessive heat under high current loads. Your solution will work and can be reliable, it delivers higher average voltage than the factory wiring, but it can have reliability issues down the road. Look into fuel cell electrical bulkhead fittings.
Nice videos man. No one really have a easy install video for hondas.
One question. For the ground coming from the fuel pump connector. Did you just attach it to the assembly that drops in the tank just like how it is stock?
Nope. The ground wire is for the relay itself. The fuel pump has its own ground inside the hanger.
If you don’t have a trigger signal in case in my case for my 66 VW bug , I can wire a positive lead to a switch to turn off and on power to mimic a trigger signal to the blue wire to activate that relay correct I think I just answered my own question I can. lol 🤔
You think this can help with my issue with my Honda because I change my fuel pump and main relay it didn’t want to turn on I also change my distributor also still doesn’t turn on it only cranks that’s all
I did a k20)24 with a hell cat fuel pump I'm still on factory wiring and my k pro is throwing dtc P0005 I wonder if this kit would fix my issue?
Would the stock wires you're splicing into bottleneck the current of the bigger 40amp wire?
Theoretically yes, but the Idea is that the bottle neck is such a short wire it *SHOULDN'T* make that big of a difference
Thanks
Hey how did you get the AN fittings on the fuel pump cover?. can you make a video on that I wanna do the same so I can run AN lines from the tank to the front and back. Thx
Dont you need to also put a bigger wire to the ground side of pump?
Love the video!
@@4door_papi I ran 3mm thin wall wire (awg 13) to a fuel pump, positive and ground from bulkhead, 12metres total length.
Battery voltage at idle was 13.9volts, voltage at fuel pump was only 12.4 volts.
Upgraded 3mm to 4mm (12 awg) and voltage increased to 13.1 volts
what gauge wires are those?
@6:44 suppose u had a problem with your oem white green wire, and you wanted to replace all of it instead of tap into the end of it? Where does it come from?
@@lurice0 do you need to connect those
What if you don't have a signal wire
You ran the larger gauge yellow wire all the way to the pump, then connected it to a smaller gauge factory wire anyway before it connects to the pump.
Does your fuel gauge work with this kit
@@SuperStarPimp fuel gauge or level sensor is not impacting by the hardwire kit.
The kit ensures adequate amperage is provided to the pump.
Please please PLEASE disconnect that immediately John. The wire running through the fuel pump lid is going to chafe on that metal and short out. This is a HUGE fire hazard!
You need to use a grommet or insulated stud for this
Ok
Pls build video JOHN! ❤
Hi John, I would remove the Amazon link that you provided for the fuel pump relay kit. I followed the link and purchased 2, one for myself and one as a Christmas gift for a friend. The image displayed is exactly what you used in your video, but what shows up in the mail is nothing like what you used in the video. It’s basically a pig tail and a universal pump sock. I went back to the listing after realizing there’s been a mistake and there’s multiple reviews about the false advertisement and not receiving what is pictured. Wish I’d have read it first but this is one time that I just really didn’t think I had to double check since I was following the link you gave us.
Thank you for the heads up!
@@boosted_johnyou’re welcome. After messaging the company they admit it was an issue on their end, they apologized and immediately issued a refund since they didn’t have the rewire kit in stock to send me. Customer service was really good.
RUN A VOLTAGE METTER WHEN RUNNING CAR I CAN GUARANTEE THERE MORE VOLTAGE DROP NOW THEN YOUR STOCK WIRING SINCE YOU EXTENDED WIRES AND TWISTED WIRES TOGETHER THIS WILL LEAD TO VOLTAGE DROP IN HI RPMS
I'm doing this to my toyota. My battery is now close to my fuel pump so my battery cable is much shorter.
Still no power to fuel pump git the pump out and tested it ran good
Let's goo
❤❤
The correct way is NOT to drill a hole in the cover.
The correct way is to remove where the white plug is and put a fitting that the wires go through it into the tank.
Will look into this
Hi @boosted_john, is the fuse a 25amp capacity? Is the relay a 40amp? I wanna create my own, but I'm out of the States, need it for my 97 supercharged 4Runner 😈😉👉
I ran a relay and my fuel pressure is 12 when starting the car
Uhhhhhhh
@@boosted_john when priming the car. I hard wired it in from the positive termal on the battery. Where should I begin tk look?
#BLOWNMOTORCLUB
Bruh cmon why would you drill it when you already have the connectors there
🤌🏻🤌🏻
Thank you, my man your lifesaver liked and subscribed 🙏🏽💪🏾✅🫡🏁