IMHO...you have a great looking truck!! So...thinking the issue was with the hubs not locking in. Maybe they needed to break free from assembly at Manufacture site. Hope it is not the vacuum actuator. If the instrument cluster indicated 4x4 engaged, then the transfer case was locked in. To test: Manually Lock the hubs and try again.
Time has proven you exactly right. They have been used many times this winter with no drama. It's just a first time use quirk that quickly clears after a try or two.
I work at Kentucky truck plant and am very familiar with the super duty obviously. You could have possibly gotten some corrosion from the winter salt keeping the hubs from engaging. With a totally new vehicle and all new parts(very few carried over) you always have problems, especially in the first year. If it does it anymore I wouldn't hesitate having it looked at. We churn out several hundred thousand trucks a year and with you getting a new model there are definitely kinks being worked out. But I will tell everyone out there, we strive everyday to give you a wonderful truck. We are very proud of the trucks we build and hope you will love it for years to come. I love the color too. Magnetic is definitely the color I would choose if I had one. Enjoy
Sweet! Good to hear from someone who helped build this awesome machine. I've had several trucks built at KTP. An Expedition, Excursion, a previous SD and now this. They have all been truly a joy to drive and have always gotten the job done. Funny how the Expedition and the 2011 SD did the exact same thing this did. Once done though they always worked perfectly. This 2017 came off the line on October 13 last year. What part did you install?
I work in the shop at the end of the line. We fix or replace parts that were not installed correctly or faulty. We have tests that are performed at various stages of the manufacture that identify these things and since it is more cost effective to have people fix them after built instead of shutting the line down. So I guess I install a lot of parts. I had an excursion as well. Loved it. Momma hated it. She didn't like the smell of diesel. That shit is like cologne to me, I love it. Just kidding about the cologne though. Someone else commented on here about letting it roll some to get it to engage. That could have been the problem. There is some truth to that. But it looks like you did some rolling in the video so I doubt that is what it was. I would guess it was due to winter crud and grime. I have an expedition that does it every year on the first time I engage the SOTF. When I use the 4L it does it every time until I roll it some to engage. If you ever have any questions feel free to ask.
Thanks again and keep up the good work. I looked at all the big three but the Ford just suits me the best. Tell your coworkers I appreciate their work.
Great comment. Just traded a '16 Ram 3500 6.7 tradesman for a '17 F-250 6.2 and the difference in build quality is night and day. Love the interior and it's an XL. I pull the camper like 6 times a year and couldn't keep justifying the maintenance. The 6.2 is solid, quiet and wants to go. Anyway, it's my first Ford. You guys make a great product.
You should check to see if you have the factory LED Runningboard light plug on the side rails of your frame. Watch my video titled "Look what I found under my truck". I think you might have the harness plug prewired as well.
Yeah, to clarify, the boards don't have lights like on the brackets on your truck. There are only two brackets on the power boards and don't have places to mount lights. The running boards are illuminated by the puddle lights under the side mirrors. Kind of a different deal but you can see them at night.
EpicCowlick: i Understand what you are saying as my wife Navigator has similar power steps and I've reviewed multiple 2017 super duties. you should still have the plugs though Incase you want to add lights to the steps when the are down. They are designed for the King Ranch fixed steps if optioned.
My new Hilux was a bit like that. Temperamental engagement of 4 high, 4 low, and diff lock seemed to last a few months, then perfect every time for a year now
Note: The electronic locking differential is for off-road use only and is not for use on dry pavement. Using the electronic locking differential on dry pavement will result in increased tire wear, noise and vibration. The electronic locking differential is a device housed in the rear axle that allows both rear wheels to turn at the same speed. The electronic locking differential can provide additional traction should your vehicle become stuck. You can activate the differential electronically and shift it on the fly within the differential operating speed range. The differential is for use in mud, rocks, sand, or any off-road condition where you need maximum traction. It is not for use on dry pavement. The following conditions will affect the electronic locking differential: • The electronic locking differential will not engage if your vehicle speed is above 20 mph (32 km/h) in 4x2, 4x4 Auto, or 4x4 High modes • The electronic locking differential will not engage if your vehicle speed is above or 56 mph (90 km/h) in 4X4 Low • The electronic locking differential will not engage if you press your accelerator pedal beyond 50% during an engagement attempt • In 4x2, 4x4 Auto, and 4x4 High modes, the electronic locking differential will automatically disengage at speeds above 25 mph (41 km/h) and will automatically reengage at speeds below 20 mph (32 km/h) • In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking differential will automatically disengage at speeds above 62 mph (100 km/h) and will automatically reengage at speeds below 56 mph (90 km/h) • The AdvanceTrac system has the ability to take over control of the electronic locking differential and disable it during driving maneuvers when necessary When you switch the system on, if you do not meet the required conditions for electronic locking differential activation, the instrument cluster will display the appropriate information guiding you through the proper activation process. Activating the Electronic Locking Differential (If Equipped) Note: Do not use electronic locking differential on dry, hard surfaced roads. Doing so will produce excessive noise, vibration and increase tire wear. Note: If the electronic locking differential has difficulty disengaging, release the accelerator pedal and turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction while rolling. For 4WD vehicles
Seemed like it the front wasn't locked in. If I remember correctly, the manual in my brother's 05 says to put it neutral then wait 5 seconds in order to engage 4wd. The light will still be on indicating it's in 4wd although it actually isn't. I'm not sure if they're still designed like that or not.
Have had nothing but problems with Ford vacuum hubs. I changed mine to Warn hubs, work great. Sometimes when you put it into 4x4 you have to drive A bit to get them to engage. Nice looking truck.
I was told to go through all the gears and wheel settings in a parking lot before I needed them in the field. The first time my fronts didn't engage even though it told me they were. As soon as I went into reverse I could feel something change never had a problem since.
Just to cover the basic did you put the truck into neutral before engaging 4L? I know on diesel models you actually have a electric vacuum pump that is used to engage the hubs unlike gas engines that use actual engine vacuum. Maybe since it was the first time use it had to overcome clearing the lines in the system.
Yes, the video is not clear. Approach hill, turn to 4Hi, wait for confirmation, switch to neutral, turn to 4Lo, wait for confirmation and then go. Good theory about having to remove the air in the line. That's plausible.
I don't know if it matters technically but maybe being in 4H and going to 4L could also been your glitch. Usually you either go to 4H which you can do moving or being 2WD come to a stop neutral and switch straight to 4L. As i'm sure you know sometimes you need to move a couple feet for the system to engage or disengage. By the way nice truck i have a 08 myself these 17 are really wearing on me good luck with it.
@@davidwelsh829 Correct, all autohubs even from the early days required at least a truck length to engage. Auto is great for those oh crap moments but when I know I am going to get into some questionable issues I just engage them. My other truck is a RAM and it has no hubs so this is not an issue BUT it also means I am rotating axle shafts all the time. I had a GMC Dually4WD that you had to drive forward slowly to engage under 4HI and then go to 2HI and drive backwards for 20' to get it to disengage...sometimes. You really never know if you disengaged or not though.....
Awesome truck Sir! Very nice. I am amazed at how quiet and smooth sounding those new Generation Powerstrokes are. I wasn't totally sure if it was gas or diesel until the very end when I saw the door badge , Plus they make great power. Love it!
The Ford Superduty has front hubs that allow AUTO or MANUAL locking. The hubs were in the AUTO position and were simply slow to engage the first time. They have worked properly hundreds of times after this. I'm told it's a good practice to manually lock hubs every couple of months or so just to keep things lubricated and working properly.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks I needed to see your video, I have never tried this just turn the switch inside, I couldn't tell when looking at wheel which setting I was in, normally when you purchase a vehicle they leave the front hubs in the auto position. if that's the case now I would know to go clockwise or counter clockwise.
Probably uses vacuum system to engage the hubs, i believe most use this now except the JK's. Surprised it doesn't have some kind of indication in cab whether it was successfully engaged or not.
It is a vacuum to engage the hubs but the indicator on the dash shows only when the transfer case has completed the shift. No way to know inside the cab if the hubs are engaged. In this case it was just a first time deal but if the hubs actually fail, you can always manually turn and lock them like the old days. I'm glad Ford still uses those.
If the front wheels are engaged via vacuum actuators, then it may need more wheel travel before the spline locks with the hub. No grinding sound which is a huge plus.
That's exactly right. It also probably takes a few extra seconds to remove the air on a truck straight from the factory. It's a great system and is very reliable.
Having worked in GM and Ford Service Departments can share common issue regardless of make. Most people don't use 4x4 often, then the first occasion the front sticks and doesn't engage. People would bring them in for repair, we would jump in and shift transfer case then forward/reverse somewhat hard. Usually, a little rough treatment and the hubs would break loose problem solved. I would always recommend for the owner to lock in at least once a month to keep everything free. I am thinking new, not used, not broke in, etc. was your issue.
I can't be arsed to to read all the comments . But , in order to engage 4 low you need to be in neutral and stopped . esof only works between 2hi and 4 hi , hope this helps
Amen to that. I have a ReadyLift 2.5 on it now. Looks perfect and raises that front air dam out of harms way. Take a look at the results video on this channel.
If the shift on fly is like my 06 f150 it could be the motor that initiate the lock in underneath. My shifter motor went out and I had to replace it. Very simple and not too expensive. My suggestion is to engage 4x4 once a week to keep those parts moving. They will seize up if not used occasionally. Nice truck by the way!
I've heard from a tech that the first time the hubs are engaged they may stick. This is temporary and usually after the first engagement it never happens again. You may have gotten one that had never been engaged.
Although I am not a fan of the new body style, your's with what looks like a level kit or something, looks pretty nice. Hopefully those kinks don't come back. Enjoy!
Thanks. The 2011 was really trouble free. I finally got on top of the wobble with a new trac bar and OEM stabilizer. I hope this truck is as trouble free too.
I purchased a 2017 F250 King Ranch Diesel and it did the exact same thing. Spoke with dealer and they are at a loss as to why. Like you have never had a problem since.
Thanks for sharing!! Since I have added the Bilstein shocks and stabilizer, I have noticed a huge difference. I have a 2015 and my friend bought a 2016. He wanted to see if there was a difference and after driving mine, he is now upgrading. I know you have had upgraded shocks in the past. Trying to give you a gentle nudge 😜
Steven Ruble Yes, transfer case was locked in properly. It just took the front hubs a few minutes to get their act together. They've worked perfectly ever since then.
man with the electronics on these newer trucks there's just no telling...great looking truck. could have been something as simple as the computer hadn't been through the full learning phase yet and when it kicked in that was it adjusting to what was demanded. wish I had the funds to get me one!!!
What is kind of weird is that my 2016 F250 did this the other day. I do not use 4WD often but when I did my front axle did not engage. My truck has less than 5K miles on it right now. After moving the switch back and forth and moving between park, neutral, reverse and drive it finally kicked on and the front axle engaged. Kinda crappy if you ask me. I did not like it.
Ford's 4wd system definitely has its own personality. It likes being used and the more I think about it this could just be the vacuum drawing the air out of the lines before the hubs engage. Most of the commenters are saying the switch to 4Lo wasn't done right but it was. It just take a few seconds and maybe a few tire rotations for the front hubs to lock in when set to Auto. No biggie. I've had Ford trucks for many years and they always get the job done.
If this behavior is continuing, you probably need to look into it further. This was a first time one-off and 4wd has worked flawlessly since then. You might have something else going on.
You should let it wait about 10 seconds before you hit the gas for the 4WD system to engage fully and it indicates it on the information screen in your instrument cluster. If not, you should shut the truck down, wait a couple minutes, turn it back on with the truck in 2WD and rear diff off, then shift into 4WD and turn diff on.
That's a good question. The problem here was the front hubs were not automatically locking so even if the front differential had a separate locker like the rear axle does, it wouldn't have helped. The transfer case engaged when shifted into 4Hi and eventually to 4Lo and sent power through the front open differential and out to the wheels. Lockers on front differentials are typically for hard core off road/rock crawling applications only. If both the rear and the front axles are locked the truck is very hard to turn. That's why the front diff is open so each front wheel can turn at a different speeds.
My 2005 F-350 Super Duty will do this when I have not used the 4x4 in awhile. Once I use it and switch it in and out of low once or twice it works fine.
I didn't have a level on it at the time of this video but that's a great point. I have a 2.5 inch level now and I haven't checked the vacuum lines. Will do.
hey I have a 2014 f150 with a set of toyo rts and have been good so far, not had them offroad but once or twice, but was looking at getting a f250 soon and wanted to see how they done on the f250?
What you are seeing in this video is 37 inch tires but zero lift. I later added a 2.5 inch front end level and now it's perfect! There's a video on this channel that shows how it turned out.
Switching from 2 wheel to 4 high is done pretty easy since your just engaging the front driveshafts, diff, etc. but going to 4 low you need to stop and have the wheels straight and not bound up. It won't switch over if not. Did I change anything when u finally got it in 4 low?
Yup, it takes a few cycles until Auto works properly. You only get one chance to diagnose this because it only happens when the truck is brand new. But I believe if I had turned the hubs to LOCK it would have engage the front wheels no problem. I've left the hubs in the AUTO position all winter and they have worked dozens of times.
If you don’t put it in neutral before you engage the four wheel drive it won’t engage if you’re four wheel drive indicator is flashing its not in four wheel drive neutral before you take it out of four wheel drive or it will bind the drive shaft
Neutral for the switch, then give it a few seconds to engage, then wallah. You used to have to go to neutral, disengage, then reverse for 20 feet for it to fully disengage. I’m pretty certain it was pilot error on this one. Done it myself....
Hey sir. Can you tell me the make model and size of your tires? They look great. I just but 2018 250 SD. I love it even though the gas mileage is terrible. How about the gas mileage on yours?
Toyo RT 37/12.5/20. They're great tires but rub on control arms at full lock with OEM wheels. 12 city, 15 mixed, 18 highway. Add 2 mpg if you stay with OEM tires. Diesel engine.
you must not know a damn thing about “new gen” anything. i never said the truck is bad. but its a KNOWN fact, EVERY new gen is a pos to its later years, the 2011 F350 is trash to the 2012-2015 F350’s why you might ask? simple. the kinks get worked out, the market uses the truck in ways they cant test for thus in 2011 when the 6.7l was new and having its issues they fixed it in 2012, the truck is bound to have issues no new gen truck is fine, his truck is an issue truck, new gen, new problems. end of story...
me2456 While I do agree about steering clear of first year trucks when it comes to motors... Ford hasn't changed anything in the 4wd system, so your comment is void.
I've heard that the rear diff lock turns off at 25mph. Does anyone know if there's a way to bypass that and also if they make an electric front diff locker? Some of the stuff I get into I would benfit having power to all wheels. Sometimes chains aren't an option or if would just really suck to chain up at the time, haha.
Broke the transfer case pulling a 5th wheel up steep mountain switchbacks. Ford fixed it and everything has been great. Video of the transfer case failure and repair info is on the channel.
Super awesome upgrade. I kick myself for not doing it earlier but then again, Titan was the only option until now and it was only 50 gallons. 60 gallons is just amazing.
I decided to buy one of the last of the 16 F-350's rather than wait a few months for a 17 for two reasons: (1) to avoid the problems (like yours) that usually come in the first couple years of production of a new design, and (2) I knew the 17 would be more expensive (as it turns out, about $18K more). If it makes you feel any better, I've had (electrical) issues with mine, too. Mostly nuisance items. Sometimes when I start it, the radio turns on at full volume. Once, after starting, my entire panel cycled on/off half a dozen times before stabilizing. The most concerning was a series of warnings in bold red font: "DPF failure. Stop driving and have DPF serviced immediately to avoid irreparable damage", or something equivalent. I was in the middle of Kansas pulling a fifth wheel on the first leg of a multi-state trip. I went straight to a dealership. They couldn't find anything wrong, and...get this...no fault was recorded in the OBD! I've never seen that again.
Any one of these trucks can have gremlins alright. The center screen did the same thing on th 2011 and this 2017. Weird that it does it a few times when new but stops after a few times. Hasn't blinked off again in 2.5 years. At the end of the day, these trucks are amazingly powerful, capable and comfortable.
@@EpicCowlick Yes, they are! Incidentally, I installed a 50 gal Titan tank after watching your video and deciding that didn't look too hard. Most helpful! Belated thanks!!! :)
Electronic switching is known for this. Sometimes takes a few turns to engage. My power wagon has a lever. When its in its locked. No need for the axle to spin. Gotten me out of trouble.
The transfer case wasn't the problem here, it was the hubs at the front wheels. The transfer case (which has automatic transmission fluid) confirmed the shift with a dash on the light and an audible little clunk when it engaged. The front wheel hubs operate on vacuum and some have suggested it took a little extra time to evacuate the air in the line the first time. Whether it was because of that or something else, it never re-occured after this event.
Appears to be a lot more rake here than the video in your driveway.. is this before you put the 37s on and leveled the truck or have raised the rear end ?
Hi, I appreciate your videos,I love the way your truck looks I have the same truck what size tires are you running? What size leveling kit did you use? Do the tires make any noise?
Thanks for the video and info. I've heard standard Diesel maintenance is a lot more than it is for gas engines. Can you estimate the difference in routine maintenance costs between Diesel and gas? I don't plan to tow more than ~12000 lbs. Consequently, a Diesel's initial cost premium along with any possible increase in maintenance costs seem like an expensive luxury.
This diesel takes 13 quarts of oil, most cars are 4-6. The air filter is more and the fuel filters are more. The engine costs $8,500 and you get back half that 6 years later on trade in. But it's not just about the numbers. You're paying for power and capability. If you don't need that, a gas engine truck is just fine. But if you're going to tow over 10,000 lbs with a gas engine, most guys will say you need the 4.33 rear end.
Thanks for the info. I had not considered the requirement for higher gearing. I know the purchase price differential but I've seen comments which lead to to believe that maintenance costs were higher for things like injectors, etc. Filters and oil are of little significance relative to maintenance costs.
Yeah, I wouldn't consider injectors, fuel pumps, turbos as maintenance items. The engine is designed to run 250,000 miles and anything less is a failure. There's lots of rumors and some have had expensive repairs but statistically the 6.7L engine and 6R140 transmission are incredibly reliable and failure free. These are built completely by Ford and are much better motors than the 6.0 and 6.4 International Harvester engines.
Does it have manual override on the hubs? I ended up just swapping out my stock auto locker hubs on my 01 super duty with fully manual Warn hubs. Much better.
I have a 2016 and my issue was grinding going into low 4x4 and what is with the size of fuel tank can't even go 270 kms towing with out having to fill up hey ford its a work truck
Nice pick up you got there sir, tons & tons of power on these new age F-series trucks no doubt. My opinion on the situation, Operator error meaning you needed to learn the truck because it was brand new to the both of YALL!!. SKIP VIDEO 2,1:30 ITS ALL FORD BEAUTY.
I believe from what I've read (Just got a F-250 6.2 with 3.73 lockers) the rear locks, but you do the switch to lock the front. I do need to read the OM though.
No wobble on this truck gratefully. The bigger tires need better shocks and stabilizers though. Ford engineers a pretty tight package of components when it comes to the front end. If a person starts messing with it like putting on bigger tires and front end levels, they better plan on making additional adjustments.
you have to lock a ford in with a slowly forward motion and give it a few seconds for the vaccum pump to lock the hubs that's all a little patience and it will work every time
The hubs on this truck were in the AUTO setting which should have engaged them as soon as the 4WD selector on the dash was turned. A better explanation is in the video description. Bottom line is that this was a one-off and has not happened again. Auto hubs work as designed, at lease for 40K miles.
You never said anything about putting the transmission in neutral. It won’t go into four low unless you put it i it won’t go into four low unless you put it in neutral.
You have a good eye. Ford uses Manual/Auto hubs. The same they have used for decades. The hubs on the truck in the video were set in the Auto position and should have automatically engaged when the 4 wheel drive switch was turned on the dash. It just took them a couple of tries the first time out.
Ford provides Michellin LTX as factory equipment. My first stop after getting the truck at the dealership was the tire store to get these Toyo RTs. 37/12.50/20.
37s will not fit on a 2015 without custom wheels and some trimming. In 2017 Ford changed the control arm and sway bar so a 37 inch tire will fit but rub a little at full lock. I will stay with 37s because I need the extra clearance and have learned how to drive without rubbing.
Thanks for the reply, I enjoy watching upgrades. I have seen 37s done on the later models, most done with some type of level, but you are correct, they will rub. For practical reasons these trucks prob should not ride on anything bigger than 35s. But man they look sharp on 37s. Keep up the good work.
Agreed, the 11-16 front end was too much, It looked front heavy. The 10' was the last nice looking truck as long as you had the gas engine and not the 6.4 diesel. They really got it right with the 17", the look and the engine. The F-150 front end is still one Fords more hideous designs since the 87-91 front end, boring and ugly all at the same time. I think a new design may be in the works for 18' F-150.
really enjoy your videos bud.. great work.. but can you please upload how it looks now with the 1.5" readylift. curious to see how the 37's look with the 1.5". thanks.
I didn't take any good video when the truck had the 1.5 inch level on. The only little bit I did was at the end of the Weigh-Safe hitch video. The truck has a 2.5 inch level now and there is one video on the channel that shows the truck and the final heights in that configuration.
I know the transfer case won't go into 4low if you don't put it in Neutral first. I don't think you have that issue, but I know some people don't realize that.
Jacob W The video doesn't show it but yes, shifting was done properly. This was likely just the vacuum lines pumping out all the air before the hubs engaged.
EpicCowlick Could. My buddy got in my trailblazer and tried to put it in 4low and told me its not engaging in 4low, told me it was broken and then I said did he put it in Neatral. Then he got all puzzeled by it. Lol told him that's normal to have to do it. But ya if something's wrong or feels wrong I would take it in to get looked at, even just piece of mind kind of thing. I have a 2015 fiesta S and its a great car. Great gas mileage too. Average 50mpg going from Oceanside to the grand canyon on the 40 freeway doing 50mph. Great car if you do a lot of driving. Trailblazers for camping and mudding. Lol
I have had mine for a few week still 100% stock even the factory Michelin tires. Also from what I can tell mine is just like yours, same trim level and short bed and even color, lol. I have been getting 20 HWY 16 mix and I don't know city. Do you think it might be the tires and wheel combo?
Ride and noise are same for both sizes. The only difference is the 37s rub on the control arm at full lock. New wheels with different offset can solve or you can just get used to it. It's not a big deal if you want the extra clearance and looks.
@@rem9607 I haven't tried the Felkins but the Nittos seem to wear out and chip faster. I've been using Toyos for several years now and they work great, last long and are quieter than other brands.
Yes, these are switchable between LOCK and AUTO. They were in the auto setting and should have locked the hubs automatically. They did eventually this time. Ever since then they work immediately.
You can tell if the hubs are locked when you turn a sharp corner on pavement. There's binding and grabbing at the front tires. They disengaged fine after the first engagement.
You've figured it out. The hubs were in the Auto position which means they should have engaged automatically when I put the transfer case in 4Hi and then 4Lo. I could have manually turned the hubs to Lock but was letting the truck do its thing. I think the brand new hubs just need a little work out and then they're fine.
EpicCowlick I think you're right! Do you have an email address or other way to keep in contact? I love your videos. I recently bought a platinum 17'. I'd like to share my build with you so far. Thanks again.
Congrats on the truck. It's an amazing piece of engineering. Go get on FTE Ford Truck Enthusiasts (ford-trucks.com). I'm in the 2017 Super Duty forum with a bunch of other guys. Great group and lots of truck talk.
Ride is great, softer than the Michellins. Noise is more but less than Toyo MT's. Wear is a little early to tell. Only 4,000 miles on them. I'll be surprised if I don't get 45,000 out of them.
not liking the new trucks, the more gears they add the more trouble you got. my 06 explorer has zero problems locking in 4hi 4lo and even locks in in auto. I hardly ever have to push the button. I did one time heading up to lake winona and you gotta rock crawl to get there. hit some steep rock steps but 4lo crawls right up them all while my wife has a panic attack. good times lol.
old trick i learned year ago from a buddy. if you engage 4x4 and its not performing the way it should. put it in reverse for a few feet that will get the 4x4 system all synched up. i have had this occur on every 4x4 i have ever owned . as you notice the guy reversed and everything seemed to work just fine
When you switch into 4Lo, you need to shift into neutral so it can engage. You will actually hear 4Lo engage one you're in neutral. If you don't hear it engage, you're not in 4Lo. Not sure if you did this or not.
I think the part that's missing is, did you hear the telltale "clunk" of 4Lo physically engaging? I've gone through all the steps in my truck as well, but I've noticed that sometimes I have to wait up to 30 seconds while I'm in neutral before I hear 4Lo actually engage. Not sure why it's so inconsistent on how long it takes to engage, but I ran into the exact same symptoms you're showing here if I shifted out of neutral before hearing it.
I'm trying to remember a time where the transfer case was slow to shift. It goes right in immediately. But it's like you said, you can hear the clunk when it does. Sometimes it's louder than others but if I really listen I can hear it every time. Probably just an alignment with the gears thing. In this case I was certain the transfer case was engaged and it was just slow to lock in the hubs.
Should have manually engaged the auto hubs. It would have worked right away. Auto hubs are cool, but the first thing I’ve done with my trucks is to replace the stock hubs with Warn manual hubs. Never a problem. Just a thought.
IMHO...you have a great looking truck!! So...thinking the issue was with the hubs not locking in. Maybe they needed to break free from assembly at Manufacture site. Hope it is not the vacuum actuator. If the instrument cluster indicated 4x4 engaged, then the transfer case was locked in.
To test: Manually Lock the hubs and try again.
Time has proven you exactly right. They have been used many times this winter with no drama. It's just a first time use quirk that quickly clears after a try or two.
read the owners manual pal, you have to have in neutral with a brakes on for it to go onto four wheel low.
Yup, did that. Video doesn't show it. This was just a one off. No biggie.
There was no need for a dealer visit. It's worked perfectly every time since. Just needed to engage properly the first time and it was good to go.
This is why I don't buy shift-on-the-fly trucks. Too many things to go wrong in my opinion. Just give me a good lever shifter and manual hubs please.
I work at Kentucky truck plant and am very familiar with the super duty obviously. You could have possibly gotten some corrosion from the winter salt keeping the hubs from engaging. With a totally new vehicle and all new parts(very few carried over) you always have problems, especially in the first year. If it does it anymore I wouldn't hesitate having it looked at. We churn out several hundred thousand trucks a year and with you getting a new model there are definitely kinks being worked out. But I will tell everyone out there, we strive everyday to give you a wonderful truck. We are very proud of the trucks we build and hope you will love it for years to come. I love the color too. Magnetic is definitely the color I would choose if I had one. Enjoy
Sweet! Good to hear from someone who helped build this awesome machine. I've had several trucks built at KTP. An Expedition, Excursion, a previous SD and now this. They have all been truly a joy to drive and have always gotten the job done. Funny how the Expedition and the 2011 SD did the exact same thing this did. Once done though they always worked perfectly. This 2017 came off the line on October 13 last year. What part did you install?
I work in the shop at the end of the line. We fix or replace parts that were not installed correctly or faulty. We have tests that are performed at various stages of the manufacture that identify these things and since it is more cost effective to have people fix them after built instead of shutting the line down. So I guess I install a lot of parts. I had an excursion as well. Loved it. Momma hated it. She didn't like the smell of diesel. That shit is like cologne to me, I love it. Just kidding about the cologne though. Someone else commented on here about letting it roll some to get it to engage. That could have been the problem. There is some truth to that. But it looks like you did some rolling in the video so I doubt that is what it was. I would guess it was due to winter crud and grime. I have an expedition that does it every year on the first time I engage the SOTF. When I use the 4L it does it every time until I roll it some to engage. If you ever have any questions feel free to ask.
Thanks again and keep up the good work. I looked at all the big three but the Ford just suits me the best. Tell your coworkers I appreciate their work.
Great comment. Just traded a '16 Ram 3500 6.7 tradesman for a '17 F-250 6.2 and the difference in build quality is night and day. Love the interior and it's an XL. I pull the camper like 6 times a year and couldn't keep justifying the maintenance. The 6.2 is solid, quiet and wants to go. Anyway, it's my first Ford. You guys make a great product.
Thanks for building my truck. 2011-F250.
I love the look of the 2017s. Congratulations
I like it too, soo much so I bought one and picked it up a few weeks ago. :D
Christopher Emanus look like it could pull your house down
hows that new truck working for you how many
times been to the dealer?? lol
You should check to see if you have the factory LED Runningboard light plug on the side rails of your frame. Watch my video titled "Look what I found under my truck". I think you might have the harness plug prewired as well.
Thanks. This truck already has the power running boards with lights. Great mod on your truck.
Wow, didn't know the power running boards had lights.
Yeah, to clarify, the boards don't have lights like on the brackets on your truck. There are only two brackets on the power boards and don't have places to mount lights. The running boards are illuminated by the puddle lights under the side mirrors. Kind of a different deal but you can see them at night.
EpicCowlick: i Understand what you are saying as my wife Navigator has similar power steps and I've reviewed multiple 2017 super duties. you should still have the plugs though Incase you want to add lights to the steps when the are down. They are designed for the King Ranch fixed steps if optioned.
Yep, the plugs are there even on the 2017's. I could have used those on the fixed steps on my 2011.
My new Hilux was a bit like that. Temperamental engagement of 4 high, 4 low, and diff lock seemed to last a few months, then perfect every time for a year now
Note: The electronic locking differential is for off-road use only and is not for use on dry pavement. Using the electronic locking differential on dry pavement will result in increased tire wear, noise and vibration.
The electronic locking differential is a device housed in the rear axle that allows both rear wheels to turn at the same speed. The electronic locking differential can provide additional traction should your vehicle become stuck. You can activate the differential electronically and shift it on the fly within the differential operating speed range. The differential is for use in mud, rocks, sand, or any off-road condition where you need maximum traction. It is not for use on dry pavement.
The following conditions will affect the electronic locking differential: • The electronic locking differential will not engage if your vehicle speed is above 20 mph (32 km/h) in 4x2, 4x4 Auto, or 4x4 High modes
• The electronic locking differential will not engage if your vehicle speed is above or 56 mph (90 km/h) in 4X4 Low
• The electronic locking differential will not engage if you press your accelerator pedal beyond 50% during an engagement attempt
• In 4x2, 4x4 Auto, and 4x4 High modes, the electronic locking differential will automatically disengage at speeds above 25 mph (41 km/h) and will automatically reengage at speeds below 20 mph (32 km/h)
• In 4L (4X4 low), the electronic locking differential will automatically disengage at speeds above 62 mph (100 km/h) and will automatically reengage at speeds below 56 mph (90 km/h)
• The AdvanceTrac system has the ability to take over control of the electronic locking differential and disable it during driving maneuvers when necessary
When you switch the system on, if you do not meet the required conditions for electronic locking differential activation, the instrument cluster will display the appropriate information guiding you through the proper activation process.
Activating the Electronic Locking Differential (If Equipped)
Note: Do not use electronic locking differential on dry, hard surfaced roads.
Doing so will produce excessive noise, vibration and increase tire wear.
Note: If the electronic locking differential has difficulty disengaging, release the accelerator pedal and turn the steering wheel in the opposite direction while rolling.
For 4WD vehicles
All very true and good info. Thanks.
Seemed like it the front wasn't locked in. If I remember correctly, the manual in my brother's 05 says to put it neutral then wait 5 seconds in order to engage 4wd. The light will still be on indicating it's in 4wd although it actually isn't. I'm not sure if they're still designed like that or not.
Have had nothing but problems with Ford vacuum hubs. I changed mine to Warn hubs, work great. Sometimes when you put it into 4x4 you have to drive A bit to get them to engage. Nice looking truck.
Thanks. They do need proper vacuum to work. Any leaks and no worky. That's where the manual lock comes in handy.
I was told to go through all the gears and wheel settings in a parking lot before I needed them in the field. The first time my fronts didn't engage even though it told me they were. As soon as I went into reverse I could feel something change never had a problem since.
That's the ticket right there. That's what I finally did in a roundabout way.
Just to cover the basic did you put the truck into neutral before engaging 4L? I know on diesel models you actually have a electric vacuum pump that is used to engage the hubs unlike gas engines that use actual engine vacuum. Maybe since it was the first time use it had to overcome clearing the lines in the system.
Yes, the video is not clear. Approach hill, turn to 4Hi, wait for confirmation, switch to neutral, turn to 4Lo, wait for confirmation and then go. Good theory about having to remove the air in the line. That's plausible.
I don't know if it matters technically but maybe being in 4H and going to 4L could also been your glitch. Usually you either go to 4H which you can do moving or being 2WD come to a stop neutral and switch straight to 4L. As i'm sure you know sometimes you need to move a couple feet for the system to engage or disengage. By the way nice truck i have a 08 myself these 17 are really wearing on me good luck with it.
EXACTLY, you must move the truck several lengths to get the hubs locked, more or less depending on each truck.
@@davidwelsh829 Correct, all autohubs even from the early days required at least a truck length to engage. Auto is great for those oh crap moments but when I know I am going to get into some questionable issues I just engage them. My other truck is a RAM and it has no hubs so this is not an issue BUT it also means I am rotating axle shafts all the time. I had a GMC Dually4WD that you had to drive forward slowly to engage under 4HI and then go to 2HI and drive backwards for 20' to get it to disengage...sometimes. You really never know if you disengaged or not though.....
That is a great looking truck and I really like those tires you added. Kind of same those are not factory option rubber.
Awesome truck Sir! Very nice. I am amazed at how quiet and smooth sounding those new Generation Powerstrokes are. I wasn't totally sure if it was gas or diesel until the very end when I saw the door badge , Plus they make great power. Love it!
It's an amazing piece of engineering. I pull a very heavy toy hauler and it just goes.
i have to put mine in Neutral for it to go in to 4 low but 4 high it can be in any drive gear.
That is true and how it works.
When you put the truck in 4L with the switch , do the front wheels lock to or you have to lock the front manually.
The Ford Superduty has front hubs that allow AUTO or MANUAL locking. The hubs were in the AUTO position and were simply slow to engage the first time. They have worked properly hundreds of times after this. I'm told it's a good practice to manually lock hubs every couple of months or so just to keep things lubricated and working properly.
@@EpicCowlick Thanks I needed to see your video, I have never tried this just turn the switch inside, I couldn't tell when looking at wheel which setting I was in, normally when you purchase a vehicle they leave the front hubs in the auto position. if that's the case now I would know to go clockwise or counter clockwise.
Damn, That is one awesome looking Ford! I love the color and wheels..
Probably uses vacuum system to engage the hubs, i believe most use this now except the JK's. Surprised it doesn't have some kind of indication in cab whether it was successfully engaged or not.
It is a vacuum to engage the hubs but the indicator on the dash shows only when the transfer case has completed the shift. No way to know inside the cab if the hubs are engaged. In this case it was just a first time deal but if the hubs actually fail, you can always manually turn and lock them like the old days. I'm glad Ford still uses those.
If the front wheels are engaged via vacuum actuators, then it may need more wheel travel before the spline locks with the hub. No grinding sound which is a huge plus.
That's exactly right. It also probably takes a few extra seconds to remove the air on a truck straight from the factory. It's a great system and is very reliable.
one sexy truck...really digging those new 3/4 tonne fords
Having worked in GM and Ford Service Departments can share common issue regardless of make. Most people don't use 4x4 often, then the first occasion the front sticks and doesn't engage. People would bring them in for repair, we would jump in and shift transfer case then forward/reverse somewhat hard. Usually, a little rough treatment and the hubs would break loose problem solved. I would always recommend for the owner to lock in at least once a month to keep everything free. I am thinking new, not used, not broke in, etc. was your issue.
That was exactly it. Thanks.
I can't be arsed to to read all the comments . But , in order to engage 4 low you need to be in neutral and stopped . esof only works between 2hi and 4 hi , hope this helps
Yeah, it has been covered below. That was what happened it just isn't shown in the video. Thanks.
Truck looks great, you should put a 2 inch leveling kit up front though
Amen to that. I have a ReadyLift 2.5 on it now. Looks perfect and raises that front air dam out of harms way. Take a look at the results video on this channel.
If the shift on fly is like my 06 f150 it could be the motor that initiate the lock in underneath. My shifter motor went out and I had to replace it. Very simple and not too expensive. My suggestion is to engage 4x4 once a week to keep those parts moving. They will seize up if not used occasionally. Nice truck by the way!
Thanks. It's easy to forget but always a good thing to shift every few weeks just to keep the parts lubricated and moving.
I've heard from a tech that the first time the hubs are engaged they may stick. This is temporary and usually after the first engagement it never happens again. You may have gotten one that had never been engaged.
That's exactly right. This truck had 56 miles when I picked it up.
Although I am not a fan of the new body style, your's with what looks like a level kit or something, looks pretty nice. Hopefully those kinks don't come back. Enjoy!
Thanks. The 2011 was really trouble free. I finally got on top of the wobble with a new trac bar and OEM stabilizer. I hope this truck is as trouble free too.
I purchased a 2017 F250 King Ranch Diesel and it did the exact same thing. Spoke with dealer and they are at a loss as to why. Like you have never had a problem since.
It's just a one time deal. No biggie but shows we probably ought to exercise the four wheel drive every now and then.
Ford Super Duty auto hubs can be turned manually. Try that, see what happens. Thx for this video.
Thanks for sharing!! Since I have added the Bilstein shocks and stabilizer, I have noticed a huge difference. I have a 2015 and my friend bought a 2016. He wanted to see if there was a difference and after driving mine, he is now upgrading.
I know you have had upgraded shocks in the past. Trying to give you a gentle nudge 😜
Thanks for the reminder. I definitely need something. The 37 inch tires weigh about twice what the OEM Michellins did.
EpicCowlick anytime!! Like someone once told me. I like spending other people's money 😜
A Train Horn is next on my list, then Larger tires!!
Same issue on my 2017 f550. The manual said put it in neutral and give it a sec. No more problems.
That should work. One guy had the idea that the air needs to be pumped out of the line the first time and it just take a few more seconds.
with auto lockers you have to put it in 4 wheel a few tire rotations before the obstacle
phil tripe That's exactly right.
Did you see indication in the off-road screen the front axle was turning?
Steven Ruble Yes, transfer case was locked in properly. It just took the front hubs a few minutes to get their act together. They've worked perfectly ever since then.
man with the electronics on these newer trucks there's just no telling...great looking truck. could have been something as simple as the computer hadn't been through the full learning phase yet and when it kicked in that was it adjusting to what was demanded. wish I had the funds to get me one!!!
it worked itself out and has worked great all winter. Looking forward to going some great places this summer, in style!
What is kind of weird is that my 2016 F250 did this the other day. I do not use 4WD often but when I did my front axle did not engage. My truck has less than 5K miles on it right now. After moving the switch back and forth and moving between park, neutral, reverse and drive it finally kicked on and the front axle engaged. Kinda crappy if you ask me. I did not like it.
Ford's 4wd system definitely has its own personality. It likes being used and the more I think about it this could just be the vacuum drawing the air out of the lines before the hubs engage. Most of the commenters are saying the switch to 4Lo wasn't done right but it was. It just take a few seconds and maybe a few tire rotations for the front hubs to lock in when set to Auto. No biggie. I've had Ford trucks for many years and they always get the job done.
I am having the same issue with a 2017 250 super duty but plowing snow with it. Just picks and chooses when 4x4 works so weird
If this behavior is continuing, you probably need to look into it further. This was a first time one-off and 4wd has worked flawlessly since then. You might have something else going on.
You should let it wait about 10 seconds before you hit the gas for the 4WD system to engage fully and it indicates it on the information screen in your instrument cluster. If not, you should shut the truck down, wait a couple minutes, turn it back on with the truck in 2WD and rear diff off, then shift into 4WD and turn diff on.
EpicCowlick Would a locking front differential have helped in that situation ?
That's a good question. The problem here was the front hubs were not automatically locking so even if the front differential had a separate locker like the rear axle does, it wouldn't have helped. The transfer case engaged when shifted into 4Hi and eventually to 4Lo and sent power through the front open differential and out to the wheels. Lockers on front differentials are typically for hard core off road/rock crawling applications only. If both the rear and the front axles are locked the truck is very hard to turn. That's why the front diff is open so each front wheel can turn at a different speeds.
Shouldn’t have to work “rough edges off?”
My 2005 F-350 Super Duty will do this when I have not used the 4x4 in awhile. Once I use it and switch it in and out of low once or twice it works fine.
Not sure how the 250/350 work but both my 12/14 F150 needed to be in neutral and truck under 2-3 MPH for 4 low to engage.
Yeah, the video does not show the switch to neutral before going into 4Lo.
Don't you have to get out and lock the hubs on HD Fords?
Nope. The hubs have two positions. Auto and Lock. The Lock position is for occasions where they don't automatically lock due to a vacuum failure.
Did you do a leveling kit? If so the vacuum hose could have came off, it needs to be lenghtened.
I didn't have a level on it at the time of this video but that's a great point. I have a 2.5 inch level now and I haven't checked the vacuum lines. Will do.
We have had a couple that with a level and bigger wheels that the vacuum hose slips off and needs to be lengthened.
hey I have a 2014 f150 with a set of toyo rts and have been good so far, not had them offroad but once or twice, but was looking at getting a f250 soon and wanted to see how they done on the f250?
They've been great both on road and off. Just got back from a 5,000 mile towing trip and they worked great even in a long rainstorm
Great looking truck. Did you raise it? Or did you put larger tires? It looks higher than usual.
What you are seeing in this video is 37 inch tires but zero lift. I later added a 2.5 inch front end level and now it's perfect! There's a video on this channel that shows how it turned out.
Switching from 2 wheel to 4 high is done pretty easy since your just engaging the front driveshafts, diff, etc. but going to 4 low you need to stop and have the wheels straight and not bound up. It won't switch over if not. Did I change anything when u finally got it in 4 low?
Yeah the video didn't show it but the shifting between 4Hi and 4Lo was done properly. Just a first time quirk but has worked just fine all winter.
I'm guessing you left the hubs in auto and did not lock them
Yup, it takes a few cycles until Auto works properly. You only get one chance to diagnose this because it only happens when the truck is brand new. But I believe if I had turned the hubs to LOCK it would have engage the front wheels no problem. I've left the hubs in the AUTO position all winter and they have worked dozens of times.
If you don’t put it in neutral before you engage the four wheel drive it won’t engage if you’re four wheel drive indicator is flashing its not in four wheel drive neutral before you take it out of four wheel drive or it will bind the drive shaft
Neutral for the switch, then give it a few seconds to engage, then wallah. You used to have to go to neutral, disengage, then reverse for 20 feet for it to fully disengage. I’m pretty certain it was pilot error on this one. Done it myself....
Hey sir. Can you tell me the make model and size of your tires? They look great. I just but 2018 250 SD. I love it even though the gas mileage is terrible. How about the gas mileage on yours?
Toyo RT 37/12.5/20. They're great tires but rub on control arms at full lock with OEM wheels. 12 city, 15 mixed, 18 highway. Add 2 mpg if you stay with OEM tires. Diesel engine.
this is why they say “dont buy the first year of a new gen”
me2456 AMEN
theres nothing wrong with the truck dude and a lot of people buy the new gen trucks
you must not know a damn thing about “new gen” anything. i never said the truck is bad. but its a KNOWN fact, EVERY new gen is a pos to its later years, the 2011 F350 is trash to the 2012-2015 F350’s why you might ask? simple. the kinks get worked out, the market uses the truck in ways they cant test for thus in 2011 when the 6.7l was new and having its issues they fixed it in 2012, the truck is bound to have issues no new gen truck is fine, his truck is an issue truck, new gen, new problems. end of story...
me2456 While I do agree about steering clear of first year trucks when it comes to motors... Ford hasn't changed anything in the 4wd system, so your comment is void.
Bret Henneke nothing wrong with there 4wd so your comment proves your a idiot...show me facts not stupidity
I've heard that the rear diff lock turns off at 25mph. Does anyone know if there's a way to bypass that and also if they make an electric front diff locker? Some of the stuff I get into I would benfit having power to all wheels. Sometimes chains aren't an option or if would just really suck to chain up at the time, haha.
It does disengage at 25 mph. Ford doesn't offer a front diff locker and probably never will. Maybe ARB or someone will come out with one soon.
Ok thanks, I appreciate the response.
So what is the update with the four by four how is everything working out now please
Broke the transfer case pulling a 5th wheel up steep mountain switchbacks. Ford fixed it and everything has been great. Video of the transfer case failure and repair info is on the channel.
@@EpicCowlick thanks a lot bro happy to see everything's working out for you
Glad u where able to work it out, how's that 60 gallon fuel tank doing . nice truck
Super awesome upgrade. I kick myself for not doing it earlier but then again, Titan was the only option until now and it was only 50 gallons. 60 gallons is just amazing.
That's a hill? Never had that problem with my manual gearshift and manual hubs.
I decided to buy one of the last of the 16 F-350's rather than wait a few months for a 17 for two reasons: (1) to avoid the problems (like yours) that usually come in the first couple years of production of a new design, and (2) I knew the 17 would be more expensive (as it turns out, about $18K more). If it makes you feel any better, I've had (electrical) issues with mine, too. Mostly nuisance items. Sometimes when I start it, the radio turns on at full volume. Once, after starting, my entire panel cycled on/off half a dozen times before stabilizing. The most concerning was a series of warnings in bold red font: "DPF failure. Stop driving and have DPF serviced immediately to avoid irreparable damage", or something equivalent. I was in the middle of Kansas pulling a fifth wheel on the first leg of a multi-state trip. I went straight to a dealership. They couldn't find anything wrong, and...get this...no fault was recorded in the OBD! I've never seen that again.
Any one of these trucks can have gremlins alright. The center screen did the same thing on th 2011 and this 2017. Weird that it does it a few times when new but stops after a few times. Hasn't blinked off again in 2.5 years. At the end of the day, these trucks are amazingly powerful, capable and comfortable.
@@EpicCowlick Yes, they are! Incidentally, I installed a 50 gal Titan tank after watching your video and deciding that didn't look too hard. Most helpful! Belated thanks!!! :)
@@pragmatic1111 Speaking of lots of fuel, wait for the next video. S&B makes a 60 gallon tank... Stay tuned!
Electronic switching is known for this. Sometimes takes a few turns to engage. My power wagon has a lever. When its in its locked. No need for the axle to spin. Gotten me out of trouble.
Yup. There's nothing quite so certain as the solid clunk that comes from a mechanical linkage.
Maybe there is no fluid running into it because its new. Like a trasmission flush you need to go through each gear so the fluid goes in each pocket.
The transfer case wasn't the problem here, it was the hubs at the front wheels. The transfer case (which has automatic transmission fluid) confirmed the shift with a dash on the light and an audible little clunk when it engaged. The front wheel hubs operate on vacuum and some have suggested it took a little extra time to evacuate the air in the line the first time. Whether it was because of that or something else, it never re-occured after this event.
Appears to be a lot more rake here than the video in your driveway.. is this before you put the 37s on and leveled the truck or have raised the rear end ?
Good eye. This is with the 37 inch Toyos but before the front end level. Back end is factory height
Hi,
I appreciate your videos,I love the way your truck looks I have the same truck what size tires are you running? What size leveling kit did you use? Do the tires make any noise?
35/12.50/20 Toyo RT's. They don't make much noise compared to the MT's. It has a 2.5 inch level on the front only.
Thanks for the video and info. I've heard standard Diesel maintenance is a lot more than it is for gas engines.
Can you estimate the difference in routine maintenance costs between Diesel and gas?
I don't plan to tow more than ~12000 lbs. Consequently, a Diesel's initial cost premium along with any possible increase in maintenance costs seem like an expensive luxury.
This diesel takes 13 quarts of oil, most cars are 4-6. The air filter is more and the fuel filters are more. The engine costs $8,500 and you get back half that 6 years later on trade in. But it's not just about the numbers. You're paying for power and capability. If you don't need that, a gas engine truck is just fine. But if you're going to tow over 10,000 lbs with a gas engine, most guys will say you need the 4.33 rear end.
Thanks for the info. I had not considered the requirement for higher gearing. I know the purchase price differential but I've seen comments which lead to to believe that maintenance costs were higher for things like injectors, etc. Filters and oil are of little significance relative to maintenance costs.
Yeah, I wouldn't consider injectors, fuel pumps, turbos as maintenance items. The engine is designed to run 250,000 miles and anything less is a failure. There's lots of rumors and some have had expensive repairs but statistically the 6.7L engine and 6R140 transmission are incredibly reliable and failure free. These are built completely by Ford and are much better motors than the 6.0 and 6.4 International Harvester engines.
Ford recommends to every once in a while to put it in 4High ,4low to keep the wheel locks from sticking.
Is any ford with "4×4" sticker supposed to be off road truck? I didn't know that.
Strange and interesting all at the same time. Need to find myself a similar hill. Thanks for sharing info.
Does it have manual override on the hubs? I ended up just swapping out my stock auto locker hubs on my 01 super duty with fully manual Warn hubs. Much better.
Yes, the hubs can be manually turned to Lock and override the Auto setting. It's nice to have that backup.
Yeah for sure...cause once them rigs get old and crusty those OEM hubs like to stick.
"old and crusty". I thought you were talking about me. ;)
haha
I have a 2016 and my issue was grinding going into low 4x4 and what is with the size of fuel tank can't even go 270 kms towing with out having to fill up hey ford its a work truck
Sounds like a transfer case problem. The tank on the new trucks is thankfully 34 gallons (129 liters) now. The 26 gallon tank was way too small.
Nice pick up you got there sir, tons & tons of power on these new age F-series trucks no doubt. My opinion on the situation, Operator error meaning you needed to learn the truck because it was brand new to the both of YALL!!.
SKIP VIDEO 2,1:30 ITS ALL FORD BEAUTY.
what color is the truck?
Jim puffer landscape? are you the owner? I see your trucks everywhere. I own Custom fence In kaysville
Good eye. No that's not me. He's across the street.
Kind of cool when you recognize something in a RUclips video. Now you can drive over that bump any time you want to test your 4 wheel drive!
I tried 4Hi today on some loose terrain. The rear diff locked without pulling the knob. Thoughts? Anyone?
I believe from what I've read (Just got a F-250 6.2 with 3.73 lockers) the rear locks, but you do the switch to lock the front. I do need to read the OM though.
I do believe the transmissions and peripheral components require a learning period to adjust to real world use.
interesting video, I like the color, what is that shade called, please?
It's Ford Magnetic or gray as I call it. lol.
thank you, love the color.
magnetic
Sorry watch the video and didn't read published.
thanks, very informative, no aftermarket stabilizers needed on the new model? no wobble at all?
No wobble on this truck gratefully. The bigger tires need better shocks and stabilizers though. Ford engineers a pretty tight package of components when it comes to the front end. If a person starts messing with it like putting on bigger tires and front end levels, they better plan on making additional adjustments.
should u have locked the Hubs? my 13 is either lock or free
Staci Moody These hubs have Auto or Lock. They were in the Auto setting.
what a nice truck, look solid like a tank. does it has manual locking hubs on the wheels?
It's really amazing. Ford is doing great work right now. They have kept the manual/auto hubs so it's nice to always have a backup.
+EpicCowlick I'm glad they went back to the front solid axle, that it's heavy duty
you have to lock a ford in with a slowly forward motion and give it a few seconds for the vaccum pump to lock the hubs that's all a little patience and it will work every time
That's exactly right. No biggie.
thats one hell of a truck, mate
The hubs require a 3/4 wheel rotation to have the vacuum actuator engage.
The hubs on this truck were in the AUTO setting which should have engaged them as soon as the 4WD selector on the dash was turned. A better explanation is in the video description. Bottom line is that this was a one-off and has not happened again. Auto hubs work as designed, at lease for 40K miles.
Absolutely beautiful truck!
Um did you have your front hubs locked in instead of in auto ?
Nope, they were in Auto. Just took a minute for them to engage but have worked fine since.
You never said anything about putting the transmission in neutral. It won’t go into four low unless you put it i it won’t go into four low unless you put it in neutral.
don't want to sound stupid or anything, but those look like manual locking hubs?
You have a good eye. Ford uses Manual/Auto hubs. The same they have used for decades. The hubs on the truck in the video were set in the Auto position and should have automatically engaged when the 4 wheel drive switch was turned on the dash. It just took them a couple of tries the first time out.
all brands have to be in neutral with brake applied to go into 4L.
what tires did Ford set you up with? they look nice
Ford provides Michellin LTX as factory equipment. My first stop after getting the truck at the dealership was the tire store to get these Toyo RTs. 37/12.50/20.
Sir, I have a 15, debating on 37s. Curious on your older truck why not 37s. And in future do you think your stay with a tire that big?
37s will not fit on a 2015 without custom wheels and some trimming. In 2017 Ford changed the control arm and sway bar so a 37 inch tire will fit but rub a little at full lock. I will stay with 37s because I need the extra clearance and have learned how to drive without rubbing.
Thanks for the reply, I enjoy watching upgrades. I have seen 37s done on the later models, most done with some type of level, but you are correct, they will rub. For practical reasons these trucks prob should not ride on anything bigger than 35s. But man they look sharp on 37s. Keep up the good work.
Those tires look bigger than stock, are they larger? If so what size?
They are bigger. Toyo RT 37/12.50/20. They rub a little on the control arm and anti-sway bar at full lock.
Are you planning on doing similar upgrades to this truck like you did your 2011?
Plenty more to come. Airbags & onboard air is next.
Awesome! Loved the old videos of the upgrades! Keep it up!
Not much of a Ford guy but the 17's super duties are good looking trucks. The side grill on the fender the only offensive part of the entire body.
It took me a couple of months to like the new style but now I really like it. Very different from the previous model.
Agreed, the 11-16 front end was too much, It looked front heavy. The 10' was the last nice looking truck as long as you had the gas engine and not the 6.4 diesel. They really got it right with the 17", the look and the engine.
The F-150 front end is still one Fords more hideous designs since the 87-91 front end, boring and ugly all at the same time. I think a new design may be in the works for 18' F-150.
really enjoy your videos bud.. great work.. but can you please upload how it looks now with the 1.5" readylift. curious to see how the 37's look with the 1.5". thanks.
I didn't take any good video when the truck had the 1.5 inch level on. The only little bit I did was at the end of the Weigh-Safe hitch video. The truck has a 2.5 inch level now and there is one video on the channel that shows the truck and the final heights in that configuration.
I know the transfer case won't go into 4low if you don't put it in Neutral first. I don't think you have that issue, but I know some people don't realize that.
Jacob W Gotcha.
EpicCowlick Was that the issue for you?
Jacob W The video doesn't show it but yes, shifting was done properly. This was likely just the vacuum lines pumping out all the air before the hubs engaged.
EpicCowlick Could. My buddy got in my trailblazer and tried to put it in 4low and told me its not engaging in 4low, told me it was broken and then I said did he put it in Neatral. Then he got all puzzeled by it. Lol told him that's normal to have to do it. But ya if something's wrong or feels wrong I would take it in to get looked at, even just piece of mind kind of thing. I have a 2015 fiesta S and its a great car. Great gas mileage too. Average 50mpg going from Oceanside to the grand canyon on the 40 freeway doing 50mph. Great car if you do a lot of driving. Trailblazers for camping and mudding. Lol
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Man, that's a great lookin truck, well done. What kind of mpg are you getting w those 37's? Thanks
18 highway, 15 mixed, 12 when on strictly grocery getting duty. Pretty much the same as the 2011
I have had mine for a few week still 100% stock even the factory Michelin tires. Also from what I can tell mine is just like yours, same trim level and short bed and even color, lol. I have been getting 20 HWY 16 mix and I don't know city. Do you think it might be the tires and wheel combo?
The bigger tires and level will take a 2 mpg hit. It's significant.
about to put 35s or 37s on a 2020 f250. you have any regrets with the 37s? ride and noise not bad? Thanks
Ride and noise are same for both sizes. The only difference is the 37s rub on the control arm at full lock. New wheels with different offset can solve or you can just get used to it. It's not a big deal if you want the extra clearance and looks.
@@EpicCowlick good point about 35 and 37 having same noise. Getting my tire lost down. Stuck on Nitto,toyo and felkin 37s
@@rem9607 I haven't tried the Felkins but the Nittos seem to wear out and chip faster. I've been using Toyos for several years now and they work great, last long and are quieter than other brands.
BTW...Does your truck have manual locking hubs on the front?
Yes, these are switchable between LOCK and AUTO. They were in the auto setting and should have locked the hubs automatically. They did eventually this time. Ever since then they work immediately.
Did you check the hubs to see if they disengaged after you took it out of 4low? I'm curious to know if the manual hubs are now some unnecessary item.
You can tell if the hubs are locked when you turn a sharp corner on pavement. There's binding and grabbing at the front tires. They disengaged fine after the first engagement.
Thanks again for the intel...
You did lock the front hubs didn't you?
You've figured it out. The hubs were in the Auto position which means they should have engaged automatically when I put the transfer case in 4Hi and then 4Lo. I could have manually turned the hubs to Lock but was letting the truck do its thing. I think the brand new hubs just need a little work out and then they're fine.
EpicCowlick I think you're right! Do you have an email address or other way to keep in contact? I love your videos. I recently bought a platinum 17'. I'd like to share my build with you so far. Thanks again.
Congrats on the truck. It's an amazing piece of engineering. Go get on FTE Ford Truck Enthusiasts (ford-trucks.com). I'm in the 2017 Super Duty forum with a bunch of other guys. Great group and lots of truck talk.
how do u like the toyo rt's so far? ride? wear? noise? thanks
Ride is great, softer than the Michellins. Noise is more but less than Toyo MT's. Wear is a little early to tell. Only 4,000 miles on them. I'll be surprised if I don't get 45,000 out of them.
what kind of tires are on there? very nice truck
Toyo RT 37/12.50/20. Really working well.
Pretty truck, I see a few fords on the property. It's good to see another ford faithful
It's easy to be true to such an awesome work of engineering. It's really an amazing truck.
You know you have manual lock in hubs right?
Yes, but the hubs were set to Auto. It just took a bit longer to evacuate all the air and get the hubs to engage the first time. No biggie.
Oh ok that's what I thought
not liking the new trucks, the more gears they add the more trouble you got. my 06 explorer has zero problems locking in 4hi 4lo and even locks in in auto. I hardly ever have to push the button. I did one time heading up to lake winona and you gotta rock crawl to get there. hit some steep rock steps but 4lo crawls right up them all while my wife has a panic attack. good times lol.
old trick i learned year ago from a buddy. if you engage 4x4 and its not performing the way it should. put it in reverse for a few feet that will get the 4x4 system all synched up. i have had this occur on every 4x4 i have ever owned . as you notice the guy reversed and everything seemed to work just fine
When you switch into 4Lo, you need to shift into neutral so it can engage. You will actually hear 4Lo engage one you're in neutral. If you don't hear it engage, you're not in 4Lo. Not sure if you did this or not.
That's right. The video doesn't show the detail but it was done. It's in the video description.
I think the part that's missing is, did you hear the telltale "clunk" of 4Lo physically engaging? I've gone through all the steps in my truck as well, but I've noticed that sometimes I have to wait up to 30 seconds while I'm in neutral before I hear 4Lo actually engage. Not sure why it's so inconsistent on how long it takes to engage, but I ran into the exact same symptoms you're showing here if I shifted out of neutral before hearing it.
I'm trying to remember a time where the transfer case was slow to shift. It goes right in immediately. But it's like you said, you can hear the clunk when it does. Sometimes it's louder than others but if I really listen I can hear it every time. Probably just an alignment with the gears thing. In this case I was certain the transfer case was engaged and it was just slow to lock in the hubs.
Should have manually engaged the auto hubs. It would have worked right away. Auto hubs are cool, but the first thing I’ve done with my trucks is to replace the stock hubs with Warn manual hubs. Never a problem. Just a thought.
That would have worked in this case. The hubs were set to Auto and just didn't engage that time. They've worked great for 3 years since.