Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
these things are great, I had to clear a half sized football pitch field of the longest grass and did it in three hours .. the elderly people who owned it had a broken down ride on mower .. the one I used was a self propelled one and so powerful it was crazy. ..
Great info video great to see a fellow minnesotan. I bought a 3.75 hp Dr trimmer and am really impressed I call it a yard reclaimer. Keep up the good work from near Brainerd Mn.😊😊😊
Maybe BG would get more likes if he took a couple of minutes and sharpened that beaver blade before doing a demo of it. I've used my blades for years, replaced the chain a couple of times and always kept it sharp. I understand this is a DR trimmer demo but this is not a fair demonstration of the beaver blade. 3 inch trees? I have a 9 inch on my stihl and cut 6 in trees on the regular.
Those are the best DR trimmer, pressurized lubrication and Kawasaki engine .....have had mine since 1998, great for pond levees and the engine want burn up due to oil starvation
Wow, awesome.. but all that work... I just used an ole Lawn boy with the offset front wheels and cut out the cowling two inches back, cut notches into the tip of the blade, kinda like chain saw teeth and went out and cut up to three inch thick :stuff" for a job I had to do... have to cut in one direction so that the back wheel is cut first as in really thick stuff the front leading wheel is too resistant and you have to have control over how fast you push. But other than that it worked great. Today I would double up on the blade. IN fact the one you originally took off would have been better or a disk with chain saw teeth on it for the type of stuff I was doing... But for this light stuff it works fine. The offset wheels with one further back is very useful for many reasons... Try it. The old Lawn boys were thick enough cast aluminum so that it would not need reinforcing .. hope this helps anyone actually thinkin of doing something like this. Blessings
Thanks for the comment! That sounds very interesting. You mention "Today I would double up on the blade". How would you double up on the blade? Thanks for reaching out!
@@BeltedGallowayHomestead Put one blade on top of the other then tac weld "tits" on both blades .. not actually wed together just little lumps to hold in place but if one blade gets bent you can separate and straighten or replace, I'd get rid of the lock washer to make up for the space and grind down the buttons on the collar that go into the holes on the blades. Better to have the blade slip than bend the crank. I've straightened many a crank with a sledge but be sure the lower half of the case is one of the earlier ones that is thick and if not then find the proper place which is strongest to take the pounding. I use a full size sledge with a shortened handle and put a cover plate on the end to take the pounding. I use vice grips and a piece of rod as a gauge to see where and how much it needs. You can't be scared to really hit it. Once you get it right it takes three to five good hits. Again take the time to set the mower and deck up at the right angle to hit at the strongest part of the lower part of the cast aluminum case. I charged $20 with no guarantees. Never had one come back, except for tune up, hot oil change, clean or replace air filter and sharpen blade. Oh almost forgot, best to drain some or all the oil to prevent mess when positioning it on its side to hit it just right. As to the blades. If using two one on top of the other, sharpen them like the rest of the blade but the higher blade has the top flat and the bottom blade bottom flat, cut or grind off the right angle into a nice curve. It will slice slice slice and create a slot as it goes and reduces the opportunity of a hard slam which shuts the engine down or bends the shaft. The key is firm steady pressure not ramming when you come to the really thick "tree". Set it the lowest to insure that it is cut at the sturdiest and less give, which causes the bending instead of cutting and it will be lower than your riding mower blades when you come back to clean up. I've even altered the wheels so it can get really close to the ground. It seems that the limit is around 3 inches thick and you have to push the tree as it cuts to open the gap... anything thicker and you have to do the walk around and cut from all sides which means clearing the area all around it first. A machete works fastest cutting at an angle and removing the weight. I can get really close to the ground but if not then this setup will slice through it easily once the weight is removed. Love to see how you like it and how it works for you and improvements you make, I used it for that one job which was about half an acre, Hell of a job but the worst was the barbed wire fencing hidden in the brush. GRRRRRR Blessings
Thanks for the question. I never used the beaver for only weeds or grass, but I would think it would bog down. It does just fine on grass and weeds as you trim saplings. I will need to look at the bolt for thread direction. Keep in mind that rotation of the blade would keep the beaver tight. Otherwise, it would spin right off. I will go take a look. Thanks for reaching out!
I have trouble with the string. I have not found a way to keep string on for very long. 5 minutes maybe. I spend more time replacing string than cutting
Thanks for reaching out. I have never expierienced this issue. Could the string you are using be the wrond idameter or material. I remimber it being pretty large in diameter. What diameter are you using?
Here is a link to the head on the DR Power web page. www.drpower.com/pages/content/customer-support/product-support/ordering-parts?aribrand=chp#/DR_Power/TR3__Ser%23_(135969__-155854)_YR._(_2010-__2013_)/Mow_Ball_Assy_All/11101710/11101716/y
Thanks for the question hugelpook 5678. No, I do not move them every day. It is more like weeks between pasture moves. All depends on what the pasture, that they have been eating looks, like looks like. I will do a video and show the pastures. Thanks for the request!
Does it look like one of these? www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Kawasaki-15003-2364-AM121151-AM124620/dp/B07JW249TQ www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Kawasaki-15004-0993-FJ180V-Choke/dp/B07NV3V7CM
Thanks for the question. No, it is easy. The two challenges I found was making sure the bolt head is clean for good contact with the wrench and engaging the round device to stop rotation during loosening and tightening. You will fill it drop into place and stop rotation.
Nick, thanks for the question! I do not think they sell the large diameter anymore. I do see this 12-inch kit on Ebay. New DR Walk-Behind String Trimmer Mower 12" Beaver Blade Kit 149711 12539 33096 www.ebay.com/itm/362618613119_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D69ccb01680c64a24818569925be17294%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D165519221832%26itm%3D362618613119%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DDR&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
thanks very imformative i have rocks and logs etc so was great to get the insight !
I am surprised these are. Thanks for the comment!
these things are great, I had to clear a half sized football pitch field of the longest grass and did it in three hours .. the elderly people who owned it had a broken down ride on mower .. the one I used was a self propelled one and so powerful it was crazy. ..
Thanks for your feedback!
Great info video great to see a fellow minnesotan. I bought a 3.75 hp Dr trimmer and am really impressed I call it a yard reclaimer. Keep up the good work from near Brainerd Mn.😊😊😊
Thanks for reaching out! You live in a beautiful part of the country. DR makes some good equipment.
184 views and only 3 likes? Come on people, show some love. BG is putting the work in and showing how it is done.
How is that bucket with a window working......for the fly's?
Thank you for your support!
Maybe BG would get more likes if he took a couple of minutes and sharpened that beaver blade before doing a demo of it. I've used my blades for years, replaced the chain a couple of times and always kept it sharp. I understand this is a DR trimmer demo but this is not a fair demonstration of the beaver blade. 3 inch trees? I have a 9 inch on my stihl and cut 6 in trees on the regular.
@@TheBrushcutter You go girl...
Would like to see HOW you put the beaver blade on.
Thanks for the request. I will work on a new video showing that.
Just uploaded the install video. I hope it answers all your questions. Thanks!
Those are the best DR trimmer, pressurized lubrication and Kawasaki engine .....have had mine since 1998, great for pond levees and the engine want burn up due to oil starvation
Very good point! Thanks for commenting.
Wow, awesome.. but all that work... I just used an ole Lawn boy with the offset front wheels and cut out the cowling two inches back, cut notches into the tip of the blade, kinda like chain saw teeth and went out and cut up to three inch thick :stuff" for a job I had to do... have to cut in one direction so that the back wheel is cut first as in really thick stuff the front leading wheel is too resistant and you have to have control over how fast you push. But other than that it worked great. Today I would double up on the blade. IN fact the one you originally took off would have been better or a disk with chain saw teeth on it for the type of stuff I was doing... But for this light stuff it works fine.
The offset wheels with one further back is very useful for many reasons... Try it. The old Lawn boys were thick enough cast aluminum so that it would not need reinforcing .. hope this helps anyone actually thinkin of doing something like this.
Blessings
Thanks for the comment! That sounds very interesting. You mention "Today I would double up on the blade". How would you double up on the blade? Thanks for reaching out!
@@BeltedGallowayHomestead Put one blade on top of the other then tac weld "tits" on both blades .. not actually wed together just little lumps to hold in place but if one blade gets bent you can separate and straighten or replace, I'd get rid of the lock washer to make up for the space and grind down the buttons on the collar that go into the holes on the blades. Better to have the blade slip than bend the crank. I've straightened many a crank with a sledge but be sure the lower half of the case is one of the earlier ones that is thick and if not then find the proper place which is strongest to take the pounding. I use a full size sledge with a shortened handle and put a cover plate on the end to take the pounding.
I use vice grips and a piece of rod as a gauge to see where and how much it needs. You can't be scared to really hit it. Once you get it right it takes three to five good hits.
Again take the time to set the mower and deck up at the right angle to hit at the strongest part of the lower part of the cast aluminum case. I charged $20 with no guarantees. Never had one come back, except for tune up, hot oil change, clean or replace air filter and sharpen blade.
Oh almost forgot, best to drain some or all the oil to prevent mess when positioning it on its side to hit it just right.
As to the blades. If using two one on top of the other, sharpen them like the rest of the blade but the higher blade has the top flat and the bottom blade bottom flat, cut or grind off the right angle into a nice curve. It will slice slice slice and create a slot as it goes and reduces the opportunity of a hard slam which shuts the engine down or bends the shaft. The key is firm steady pressure not ramming when you come to the really thick "tree". Set it the lowest to insure that it is cut at the sturdiest and less give, which causes the bending instead of cutting and it will be lower than your riding mower blades when you come back to clean up.
I've even altered the wheels so it can get really close to the ground. It seems that the limit is around 3 inches thick and you have to push the tree as it cuts to open the gap... anything thicker and you have to do the walk around and cut from all sides which means clearing the area all around it first. A machete works fastest cutting at an angle and removing the weight. I can get really close to the ground but if not then this setup will slice through it easily once the weight is removed.
Love to see how you like it and how it works for you and improvements you make, I used it for that one job which was about half an acre, Hell of a job but the worst was the barbed wire fencing hidden in the brush. GRRRRRR Blessings
@@colin-manyeates-clan5221 Wow! Thanks for the great info. I have had run ins with barbed wire also.
is there such a thing that the vertical trimmer and be rotated 90 degrees to be used as a edger for lawn?
Thanks for the question. No, I have never seen such a thing.
How does it work on weed and grass with the beaver ???
Is the bolt left or right had tread ???
Thanks for the question. I never used the beaver for only weeds or grass, but I would think it would bog down. It does just fine on grass and weeds as you trim saplings.
I will need to look at the bolt for thread direction. Keep in mind that rotation of the blade would keep the beaver tight. Otherwise, it would spin right off. I will go take a look. Thanks for reaching out!
Sorry for the delay. My bolt has right hand threads. Hope this helps!
I have trouble with the string. I have not found a way to keep string on for very long. 5 minutes maybe. I spend more time replacing string than cutting
Thanks for reaching out. I have never expierienced this issue. Could the string you are using be the wrond idameter or material. I remimber it being pretty large in diameter. What diameter are you using?
Where do you buy that head? I have a diff style and would like to try that style. My line keeps coming out of mine.
Here is a link to the head on the DR Power web page.
www.drpower.com/pages/content/customer-support/product-support/ordering-parts?aribrand=chp#/DR_Power/TR3__Ser%23_(135969__-155854)_YR._(_2010-__2013_)/Mow_Ball_Assy_All/11101710/11101716/y
Do you move the belties every day? Can you show us their pasture?
Thanks for the question hugelpook 5678. No, I do not move them every day. It is more like weeks between pasture moves. All depends on what the pasture, that they have been eating looks, like looks like. I will do a video and show the pastures. Thanks for the request!
Just uploaded a pasture video. I hope this is what you are looking for. Thanks for the request!
I would like to get it.But how?
I have one but they have NO torque when goiing over a bump or twig...
Need a new carb for mine. Same unit as yours.
Does it look like one of these?
www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Kawasaki-15003-2364-AM121151-AM124620/dp/B07JW249TQ
www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Kawasaki-15004-0993-FJ180V-Choke/dp/B07NV3V7CM
Sir was it hard to put the beaver blade on?
Thanks for the question. No, it is easy. The two challenges I found was making sure the bolt head is clean for good contact with the wrench and engaging the round device to stop rotation during loosening and tightening. You will fill it drop into place and stop rotation.
do you have a part number the blade kit with everything to put it on at all.thanks
- nick
Nick, thanks for the question! I do not think they sell the large diameter anymore. I do see this 12-inch kit on Ebay. New DR Walk-Behind String Trimmer Mower 12" Beaver Blade Kit 149711 12539 33096
www.ebay.com/itm/362618613119_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20180105095853%26meid%3D69ccb01680c64a24818569925be17294%26pid%3D100903%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D16%26sd%3D165519221832%26itm%3D362618613119%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2510209%26brand%3DDR&_trksid=p2510209.c100903.m5276
1253 sawzall with milwaukee pruning blade
Thanks for the comment. How about a battery powered sawzall?
@@BeltedGallowayHomestead yes
160423
Wow just wasted 15 min of my life watching this video. U could showed us how change to beaver blade.
Good morning, there is video for that. ruclips.net/video/rEypkQJdy3c/видео.html
These things are kinda gimmicky
Good morning. Not sure what you mean about gimmicky. Every tool has its use. Some better for some people and not others. Thanks for the reply.
Lightweight is good and what did I use it for it’s a lawnmower ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTPN04aT-Qdjr_KS3ql7ng8wnU3wwsCqk also recommend Yes it is lightweight so hence not as robust as our old one. But if you take care it does the job really well.
Awesome! Thanks for reaching out.