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Great idea! Thanks for reaching out.

Thanks for reaching out. I took a quick look and they look to be discontinued. If you find them please let me know, others are looking for them also.

Awesome question! I think you are referring to the Hydraulic Oil (use SAE20W 50). Remove the hydraulic fill cap and check the level. The correct level is up to the lowest hole of the oil tank fill neck. Pour hydraulic oil into the reservoir up to the lowest hole in the oil tank fill neck, if necessary. Please let me know if this helps.

Sorry for the delay. Not sure what are you asking. There is a START and STOP rocker switch to the lower right corner of the generator. Is this what you are asking?

I agree. As I stated at 8:30 in the video. I prefer Mobil but my local supply store was out. Thanks for reaching out!

Great question! I did consider them. I was getting more material on my running boards than my upper fender. Thought it was a little overkill and went with the shorter ones.

Thanks. The longest long John mud flaps I could find are 48 inches. Did you actually find longer ones that actually go all the way around the wheel wells?

@@DJS100 Incredible. They look to be discontinued.

This is a very popular topic. I have never milked my Belties. I let the calves have it all. Thanks for reaching out.

Great question that I would need to look up. I know that it is an F series.

These mowers have different engines. Which one do you have? 19HP Kawasaki, 20 & 24HP Honda, 23 & 25HP Kawasaki, 25 & 27HP Kohler, 28HP Kohler E.F.I., 28 & 33HP Generac

Are you referring to the Weather Tech or Husky?

⁠@@BeltedGallowayHomesteadhusky

@@lucidJoven the Husky mud flap is flat and bend to fit the inner radius. I would think they should work. There are different sizes and widths. Get the ones you think fit best for your situation. Thanks for reaching out!

Let me know if these helps. Here is what the manual says: Safety Switches: There are five safety switches in the electrical circuit which control the engine. They are (1) the blade clutch switch, (2) the parking brake switch, (3) the left and (4) the right steering lever switches and (5) the seat switch.They operate so that in order to start the engine, the blade clutch switch must be off, the parking brake must be engaged, and both steering levers must be opened-out to the side in the neutral position. Once the engine is started, the seat must be occupied and the parking brake must be released before either of the steering levers is folded up to the operating position or the engine’s electronic ignition will be grounded out and the engine will stop. Also, the seat must be occupied before the blade clutch switch can cause the blades to rotate. Seat Switch: With both steering levers opened-out to the neutral position, the parking brake engaged and the blade clutch switch in the “off” position, start the engine. Now release the parking brake, hold down on the back of the operator’s seat against spring pressure, and swing one of the steering levers up to the operating position. Release the operator’s seat and the engine should stop. If the engine does not stop, the seat switch must be replaced. With both steering levers folded out in the neutral position, the parking brake engaged and the blade clutch switch in the “off” position, sit in the operator’s seat and start the engine. Turn the blade clutch switch to the “on” position and the blades should start to rotate. Raise up slightly off the operator’s seat and the blades should stop. If the blades do not stop when you dismount from the operator’s seat, the seat switch must be replaced.

@@BeltedGallowayHomestead Thank you for your response, here is my newest info..It would always start but cut off by either brake or PTO engagement. I did pull fuses and look, I did unplug seat and back in, I disconnected a few other electrical connections and it appears that there is a short somewhere in all of this because it started working again so its a needle in the hay stack situation and I am sure it would be costly to track .

@@ritchiesheriff that is a bummer.

That could be a bad drive. But first, check some simple stuff like hydraulic fluid level. A subscriber got a great deal on an M60 with the same problem and it was just low on fluid. Lift the seat and take a look. Thanks for reaching out!

I have the Recon 60”, very similar to the Tank. I had to replace the pump when my left drive just about quit working. Probably five years back now, it’s a pretty pricey unit and there weren’t individual parts available, only the whole pump.

@@1971_Chevelle_SS wow, I have never seen a recon. Thanks for reaching out.

Awsome! You sould not be disappointed. They are great mowers.

Haha be careful!

Thanks for reaching out. Less snow and no minus 10 to 20 degree days. I will not miss those.

Yea, love the galloways!

Thank you for that info!

Thanks for reaching out! If you plug the RV into shore power, do you have power in the RV? Just wondering. Lets see what the manual says for "NO" AC output: (easy check) Circuit breaker CB1 and/or CB2 could be tripped. These are to the right of the START/STOP switch. These have the AC voltage. (hard check) Open circuit between voltage regulator and brush block. (hard check) Open circuit between generator windings (Q1, Q2) and voltage regulator. (hard check) Open circuit between terminal block TB1 and voltage regulator; wire harness J4 leads (hard check) Brushes stuck in holder or not making good contact with slip ring. (hard check) Defective voltage regulator. (hard check) Open, grounded, or short circuit in rotor or stator. I do see these generators for sale on Craigs List and Martketpace. Just in case you need a replacement. This could be a tough one. Please let me know what you find.

Thank you! You may have an unbalanced mower blade or a bent mower blade. Have you looked for these ?

Thank you very much! Those are 100 watts each for a total of 400 watts.

Thanks for reaching out. Oil capacity (with filter) is 3.5 quarts.

I am loving the weather. The belties were calm before but seem even more laid back. I hear that the red poll are good dual purpose (milk and meet) cattle. I don't milk my belties. I could, just don't interest me. I did enough of that as a young lad. Hahaha. Thanks for reaching out!

Thanks for reaching out. The Operator's and Service Manual I have covers 48-inch, 54-inch, 60 inch and 72-inch decks. Horse powers range from 19HP to 33HP. Engine manufactures range from Kawasaki, Honda, Kohler to Generac. Very similar operation and service procedures but parts can vary greatly. I would expect the blades and belts to be different. Hope this helps.

Yea Buddy!

Hahaha! Yes. I cleaned the fence row the first year by hand. Never again. Glad you liked the video.

Sorry for the delay. For the generator model number with Genset Family BGM, the carburetor part number is: 146-0455 for Spec A 146-0528 for Spec B-C 146-0664 for Begin Spec D The Spec number is the last number of the model number. The one in the video is Spec F. Let me know if you need more info!

@@BeltedGallowayHomestead Thanks

Thanks for reaching out! Glad to help.

You are asking a lot here and I will do my best to answer. I would size the (whole house) generator to your electrical load. If you need a 22kw, a 16kw will not work for you. I would not use this generator for the primary power source, only backup. I am not sure if it has the duty cycle for primary use. My generator uses very little propane. It exercised every Sunday for 15 minutes and ran all power outages over the years. The propane tank still shows full. I would guess that the generator would run "full time" for weeks or even months before the propane tank would need refilled. I hope this helps!

Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching!

Thanks for reaching out. People also refer to them as oreos, in reference to the Oreo cookie. Thanks again!

No. Southern Indiana!