Fronius Transpocket 180 Stick Welder Review
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- Опубликовано: 25 сен 2020
- This is my review of the Fronius Transpocket 180. It is a fairly expensive welder, but it seems to offer a lot for that money. I purchased the stick version of the welder, so it doesn't have a gas solenoid or foot pedal capability. It can still do lift arc TIG, but it is more focused on stick welding, so that's what I focused on for this review as well.
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I just came across this review video. Great attention to detail! The board alignment and wiring comparison was interesting to witness between both units. The Fronius boards are also manufactured and produced by Fronius in Austria. It's cool to see made in Austria on the boards themselves :) They refurbish all their own boards and consumers can buy them either refurbished or new depending on budget. Keep up the great videos!!!!
Thanks for the help. I ordered the 2200 today. Super excited to be getting one.
@@jdeluisa Im looking at getting a 2200 too, I was looking at the Esab emp 215, and the Transteel 2200 but I got a little turned off the 215 after I've read and heard of quite a few faults and problems with the Esab, I'm from Ireland I was even talking to a welding supplier in the UK initially asking about the Esab 215 and they told me there going to stop selling the Esab because of the faults and the delays there customers had in getting parts or replacements up to 5 months for one customer they told me, there's a couple guys on RUclips who had problems too.
All I've heard about the Fronius is that it's bullet proof. It's not like the Esab emp 215 rebel is a cheap machine,
idk i haven't pulled the trigger yet but will do by the end of the month I have a quote that's valid till them and heard prices might go up 7% next month or two.
@@deepwinter77 I don’t know if you got one yet but the 2200 is a beastly machine. I run spray transfer a lot with 90/10 and normal 75/25. It actually melted a dinse connector on my ground lead before the machine even thought about overheating. You can actually get into spray transfer plugged into a 110v outlet if you set up in Manual mode. Use it for stick welding in the shop too when I’m doing heavy equipment repairs. Not as good as a Lincoln sa200 but just as good as any other stick machine for 7018 and stainless rods.
Very good review, testing everything and making measurments, greetings from germany!
You get what you pay for with fronius.. recently bought a TPS 320i c and that is by a long shot the best welding machine ive ever used.. the double pulse function on the mig is incredibly accurate and precise with its droplet control. and the user interface is amazing.. very expensive machine but you wont regret it.
Great review, We learn a lot from internal design, I'd love to see some closer shots of the boards to see the components close up.
A design like the Fronius is in general a much more robust design fewer points of failure for a machine that will be moved and bumped a lot this is quite an important factor.
Large unsupported components will experience significant forces from bumps and drops, giving the PCB a conformal coating adds additional moisture protection it probably adds to the strength a little and it insulates all the components inside which would help add arc or short circuit protection if contamination got inside.
I would say if someone is likely to be doing mobile work going from site to site the Fronius would be a better option.
If you were just going to leave the welder in one spot in a workshop and it was in a location free from bumps vibration and knocks the lower price of the Rogue would be a good option.
Im currently in the market for a Mig unit and had Short listed Esab 215 and the Fronius Transsteel 2200.
From the anecdotal research I have done both are good, but there have been a level of faults with the 215 that I didn't find with the Fronius anecdotally anyway, one user who had to get his machine replaced twice said once I got one that worked it was great but said there a little delicate from his experience.
Seeing the inside does reinforce what I had started to believe, that the Fronius machine are very robust working machines.
Thanks for the video.
Absolutely superb review. And I can say that because I use one regularly now. Spot on differences between Esab Rogue and the TP180.. My only complaint was the cable came loose from the stinger.. But a screwdriver and a bit of threadlock solved the issue.
Thanks.
Great review man thanks
Thank you for putting the time & effort into your videos & for going into the finer details. I really appreciate this, I’ve been very interested in the Fronius USA machines for some time now. I’m curious as to how the arc characteristics compare to a Maxstar. I happened to come across a very good deal on a 200dx but I get the impression that the Fronius is probably a lot nicer, particularly for 6010. Thoughts?
I do have some experience with a Maxstar 210, but not the 200. I imagine the arc characteristics are similar. I actually never use the Maxstar for 6010 rods because I simply don't run much of that. I have only ever run 6010 to test welders. My understanding is that it would run just fine, but I can't say 100%. The Fronius has more adjustments in terms of how the stick feature runs, and while I never compared them side-by-side, I'd probably give a very slight edge to the Fronius. But the Miller still is very nice to use. I've done a decent amount of stick welding with the Maxstar 210 (mostly 7018) and it has been great. My guess is that you wouldn't be disappointed with either one. If you want TIG features, the 200DX would have far more TIG features. Another thing to keep in mind: Miller welders are very nice and I think they are pretty reliable overall, but they can still fail (any box of electronics with with high voltage and high current passing through it can fail). I've heard of some fairly steep repair bills for Miller equipment. So if the difference is between a new Fronius with a warranty and a used Miller, that would be a heavy factor in my decision. Not saying you shouldn't consider a used machine, especially if it's a good price, but it's definitely something to consider.
Great review. I own this very same machine in the non MV version (240v only). However the standar package here in Spain does not include leads, stinger, ground clamp or plastic case. I had to make my own leads (35mm2) and right now sits on a shelf with no case at all. I must say I have run 6013, 7018, 6010, 316L and 308... and runs great. I confess I have not messed at all with the advance features, nor have I tried the TIG mode, YET!
What supplier did you use I'm in Ireland and there's only one Fronius supplier, I would be interested in checking another one out, before Brexit I would have just bought from the UK but it can be easier to buy from main land Europe now.
@@deepwinter77 There is one in scottland bought mine from ebay.
0nce you weld with the Fronius, it is really hard to go back to any other welder, Yes they cost more but the quality is just too good to pass up. I know other guys will say its too much for occasional use or your comparing Cheves or Fords to Ferraris but you are. I got mine 3 years ago and liked it so much I sold my Miller, Bought another Fronius last year (a 2200 transteel) . I like the pulse stick mode and I found 3.5 hz to be good for my style, but try other settings for pulse and see what works for you, but you can get a stack of dimes look with the stick pulse if you fiddle a bit with the pulse settings. I have taken mine to jobs in the field with only 110 volts eg, and old folks home and fixed drain grates with 6013 rods , no problem. At the end of the day you still get what you pay for.
How do you like the transsteel? Do you tig much?
@@jdeluisa I really like my Transteel 2200. I just finished an aluminum Kayak rack to put on a boat trailer so you can carry both. IT does aluminum very (5356) well.
also silicone bronze. I don't tig much at present but when i do I use it for aluminum bronze and silicone bronze. I would rather do mig , but thats just me.
@@bruced1429 What other welders have you used?
@@jdeluisa Miller 225, Esab 215 Fronius 180, Transteel 2200, Old Lincoln buss box,
an industrial miller years ago , can not remember the model and nameless Chinese ones.
@@bruced1429 I was looking at this machine pretty seriously. Comparing it to a Miller multimatic 220 and the HTP Propulse 220. Are you happy that it has 110/220 capability? I was thinking about the trans steel 2700 due to spool size options
Excelente video, de los mejores qué e visto, te dejo un like👍
Excellent review- thanks
Thanks for your detailed coverage. But, one thing confuses me with regards you having indicated that you used the pulse mode when running 6010 on light gauge . In at least 2 other youtube reviews of this same machine , It is mentioned that the pulse feature does not work in ' cellulose ' mode. I would like some clarification on this. Could it be that you might have been running the 6010 in the 'stick' mode?
I only used pulse running 7014 on 1/16" thick material in the standard stick mode. I never used pulse with 6010.
I probably should have been more clear that what I was talking about wasn't necessarily what weld was being shown. I did put text of the rod being used on screen, but I should have mentioned the settings as well. The 3/32" 6010 was being run on the cellulose mode at 60 amps, no pulse. The 1/8" 7018 was being run at 125 amps for the stringer beads on the thick piece and 120 amps on the square tubing. I did run 3/32" 7018 at 95 amps and it ran great. The 1/16" 7014 rods I show were being run at 45 amps with pulse mode on, set at 3 PPS. I did more welding than that, but that's just an explanation of the arc shots shown.
Nice review. By chance did you ever complete that TIG comparison?
Unfortunately I never got to it. Too many other things going on and it sort of got dropped along the way. I am planning to test some other machines though. I have a Hone FC140 that can do lift start TIG, the Hone 185, the ESAB ES 130i and possibly one or two other machines that I'll be doing TIG testing with. I've been really busy with work lately, but I think (fingers crossed) there is a bit of a lull coming up, so I hope to get some more welding videos out.
Nice machine and good review! It's just a bit out of my price range unfortunately.
Welcome. Question Please I own a Fronius 150 pocket welding machine. If you run the machine. It says E04 on the screen then disappears and solders normally. The meaning of the symbol in the machine book. Open circuit voltage not reached:
Electrode in contact with workpiece/hardware fault
Remove the electrode holder from the workpiece. If the service code persists, should I submit it to a repair technician or does it just need to be updated?
I'm not sure if it's normal to see that code on initial power up or not. How long does that code stay on screen? Maybe you could try powering up with no cables connected to see if it still happens. If it doesn't happen with no cables connected, I would inspect your cables to make sure there are no issues.
If it seems like an issue, it might be worth reaching out to Fronius or a repair center to see what they say. I can't say if you should send it for repair or not.
@@bigtb1717 Hello, thanks for your response. It stays on for a second and then disappears, knowing that the device is soldering normally. The symbol only appears when it is turned on
Very nice review. I watched your Esab Rogue 180i review also. I am currently trying to decide between the two. I think it's coming down durability and longevity. I'm not an everyday MMA welder but I want something that's going to last. Big price difference but I'm willing to pay more for quality. Any opinions on which one would be much appreciated.
The Fronius appears better built internally, with better quality components and my gut tells me it would therefore be more likely to hold up long term. But it's impossible to say for sure. A big thing for me is knowing that my local shop sells and can provide warranty support for the brand I purchase. Will you be ordering the welder online? Is there a local shop that can offer help with warranty issues? Don't get me wrong, I hope both of these welders last well past the warranty period, but it's still nice to at least know there is somewhere local I can turn during the warranty period.
@@bigtb1717 Thanks for responding. That was something that I did check on. There are places in my area that have support for both. When you opened both up it was like night and day. The Esab looked like alot going on..lol not that it means it's a bad thing. But I agree it appears the Fronius is better built internally. Thank you again for the information.
No problem. As you say, no reason to say that the design of the ESAB is a problem. Like I said, it's just a gut thing that the design of the Fronius looks like a more thoughtful design, and maybe that means more thought went into part selection and circuit design. From what I've read, ESAB does stand behind their products, so I wouldn't be worried on that front. It's a tough call, but I'm the same way: I'm normally willing to pay more if it means I'll have less hassle and fewer issues down the road. Nothing more frustrating than a broken tool that holds up a projects and costs time and money in more ways than one.
Excellent review. I'd love to buy this if you're selling it, Thanks.
We texted about other welders, but I keep coming back to the fronius.
I actually sold the Transpocket 180 a while back. I may have others to sell before long, lol. But unfortunately, that one's gone.
@bigtb1717 yea I'm to the point that I'm going to have to bite the bullet and get a new one. I never see a used transpocket for sale. I wanted to like the new Lincoln or Esab, but just something about them. Yea you and I discussed the profax and others, but I really wouldn't be happy I don't think.
Maybe @chris_b_liven knows of a demo model for sale?
If only we knew what the solonoid part number is, I bet you could upgrade it to the tig version.
Watching your older videos and new Looks like the the Norther tools Klutch ST201iDV
is a balance between quality and value would you agree?
Great video by the way!!
I do agree. I plan to make a follow up video on the Klutch at some point. It's still one of the cheapest machines I'm aware of with power factor correction. Plus the fact that it runs 6010 and comes with a foot pedal and regulator for TIG. Assuming they haven't done anything to "downgrade" it over the years, that machine is a fantastic value.
thanks i thought so too@@bigtb1717
I just got the Klutch a week ago and can report it runs just as good as you described. In fact, your videos may have made me confident in taking things apart ! As I took it apart to see if it matched yours and after review it does. What else is interesting is the fact that my 9500 running watt Westinghouse generator "run of the mill" runs the Klutch welder with 1/8 6010 no problem. This generator has a horrible THD rating somewhere around 27 percent. Sure long term it may fry it but my Titanium 225 won't run 1/8 6010 on the same generator. The power factor correction plays a part but not in the way I understand, this is on 220v and very "dirty" electricity. The way the power factor correction works must by default do something that covers the spikes and dirty electricity. I'm not suggesting it cleans it, but it definitely must be correcting the wave at least enough to make it manageable. I'm not sure, that's completely a guess by a non electrician here ! It can't be from simply operating on lower power consumption as 9500 watts is way beyond sufficient for any 1/8 rod ever used even on the cheapest inverter. What's your thoughts ?
GOOD INFO THANKS!!@@floridastate3247
@@floridastate3247 From what I've read, the active power factor correction in many inverter welders does act sort of like a power filter. Many welders with power factor correction specifically advertise that they work well on generators, long extension cords, and unstable power in general. So it's very likely that the power factor correction plays a part in why the Klutch tolerates the gen more readily than the Titanium.
Hello again! I can’t find any specification on what type of machine connections it has for the leads. Are these the proprietary Fronius connections or are they standard 1/2 in. DINSE Connections? Im trying to figure out if I could hook up a standard CK17V Torch if I wanted to.
The welding lead connections are standard DINSE connectors. You could definitely use a CK17V torch with a DINSE 35/50 adapter.
@@bigtb1717 Sweet!!! That’s awesome. I’ve been debating on trying to wait for a TP 180 TIG to pop up on the Fronius Demo Equipment page vs going with the stick version. Especially because I know that I prefer the absolute smallest torch I can get away with using when it comes to TIG welding. And for the type of welding I would want to use it for, a torch with a valve is kind of the standard practice. Then with the pulse functions, I’m very rarely above 30-50Hz on anything lol.
Thanks again man,
Alex Weeks
I'm with you on the small torches. My favorite torch is the stubby torch from Weldtec and I use a 9 size for almost everything. Rated at 125 amps but I've run it at 160 for short periods, lol. Unfortunately it's not available with a valve.
You have to use the adapter as the fronius dinse has an o ring on it. I’m not %100 certain but I use the transtig 210 and had to use the adapter too. I also have to use the fronius pedal for the high frequency to work. I haven’t tried it on lift arc
@@sbranham86 I imagine that is for the TIG version with the built-in gas solenoid. I think Alex's question was about the stick version that I have because he wanted to use a torch with a valve. The Fronius welder I have uses standard DINSE connections, but it's the stick version.
I’ve heard the breaker amps matter quite a bit, did you use a 15 or 20 amp breaker while getting 120A for 7018
My 120V circuit in the garage is a 20 amp circuit. Technically, it would likely run just as well on a 15A circuit, but it would be much more likely to trip the breaker if you max it out. The welder actually has an option in the menu to limit the output if you are running on a 15A circuit so you won't trip the breaker. I had that option off so the output wouldn't be limited.
@@bigtb1717 so I ended up buying it. And if I plug into a 120v 20A outlet it only allows me to get 85A…any advice?
@@ashwilbur706 Do you have the little menu card that came with it? It shows all the different menu options. There is one for telling the welder what amperage circuit the welder is connected to. Make sure that feature is either set to 20 amp, or turned off entirely.
@@bigtb1717 omg I thought it did it automatically 😂😅
Did you film this video with your Sony fdr ax700? I have been looking at them recently. I use a GoPro 7 silver or an iPad for my videos. Been trying to upgrade. Saw your camcorder video and randomly had welding shots in it. Then got really interested in your other videos. The clarity of your videos vs mine is insane. I got a John Deere 544a I’m trying to make a rebuild video of. Blew a hole in the block and needs a lot of hydraulic work. That camcorder would be a nicer camera I think. Plus i do trees and welding as well. I think the zoom of the camcorder would get some really cool footage of the tree service work.
The trans pocket is a beast of a welder by the way. I’ve had one on my weld rig since 2020. It my most used machine so far. I actually tend to use that over my SA200 quite frequently now a days since the sa200 is on a trailer. The fronius is way nicer to use for smaller repairs and such. I do pull out the sa200 for bigger jobs and when I’m working on super thin crusty material though.
The shots on the bench were recorded with a different camera but all the welding and such was recorded with the AX700. I still use it in all my welding videos for arc shots, as well as a "B" camera for recording meters while welding, etc.
@@bigtb1717 thanks for the reply’s. how do you protect the lense?
I use a screw-on UV filter. I had one on there for years and only recently replaced it for the first time due to some imbedded spatter, lol. I figure it can't hurt to filter out some of the extra UV as well. Funny enough, I don't see a single mark on the body of the camera. If they are there, they don't show up. It still looks perfect. I also generally keep the camera at least a couple feet away from the weld and zoom in. I make sure the display on the camera is always facing away, so spatter won't impact it directly.
@@bigtb1717 do you know if they make a screw on filter for the ax53?
can you review the trassteel 2200?
Interesting you ask that. I recently got one. I am just finishing up the first video featuring it. I can eventually do a full review.
@@bigtb1717 I literally got mine today it's amazing!
I was wondering if you could run this welder off a Yamaha 2800k Inverter generator? Thanks
You probably could, but you wouldn't be able to get full output out of it. It surely draws FAR more than 2,800 watts when maxed out.
@@bigtb1717 Thank you!
Hi, I just bought a transpocket 180 from baker's gas. Does your handle move back and forth a little bit?
I'll have to double-check, I don't remember for sure. I can't remember how it was attached when I took it apart, but I think it was just captured by the front and back panel, so it might be normal for it to shift front to back slightly.
I feel like it does, but I'll try to remember to check tomorrow and let you know.
Thank you! Awesome machine.
@@bigtb1717Thanks. Great video!
I couldn't decide between transpocket and lincoln 161s, which would you recommend?
I don't have any experience with Lincoln stick welders. I have no doubt it's good, but I don't have any personal experience to draw from.
I know some of their larger stick welders are well liked.
That looks like a "global" model for Lincoln (50 Hz, 230V), so is it fair to assume you are not in the US? If so, then the fact that the Fronius is available as a dual voltage that can run on 120V may or may not matter to you.
Without any experience with the Lincoln, I would recommend choosing the one with better warranty/service support in your area.
Thank you for your answer. We decided to buy a fronius transpocket 180, I hope I am wrong, will the 6010 and 7018 be enough for the power I will use?
Which one is preferred? The rogue or the transpocket?
I personally prefer the Transpocket. It is a nicer machine. It's also more expensive though, so your budget will be a factor in deciding which one is right for you.
Nice review. I own an old maxstar 150stl with foot pedal, do you think it worth it sell the maxstar and upgrade to transpocket 180? I wish I can have both but I don’t have the budget 😢
My first TIG machine was a 150STL. Great machine. If you mostly do stick, the Fronius has more options and more output on both 240V and 120V. On TIG, it also has far more output, but the stick version I had is a bit less versatile as a TIG machine, due to the lack of remote amperage control or a built-in gas solenoid. The TIG version of the Fronius has those things, but it is yet more expensive.
@@bigtb1717 thank you for the info, Fronius seems built better than miller and more advanced, do you know if the transpocket Tig version support pedal? I've located a Transpocket TIG package priced at $1500 USD with 3 years warranty, do you think it’s a good deal?
I would imagine there is a foot pedal for it, but I honestly haven't seen one. I've only seen the ludicrously expensive Fronius TIG torch with the built-in controls. It's fine, but it's bulky, and at the places around me it's like $500. It's a bit insane. I like that with my Miller I can use an SSC foot pedal and a CK or WeldTec torch. Don't get me wrong. The Fronius machines are really nice. And when I compared the Fronius Transsteel to similar priced Miller machines, the Fronius had better features and output. But I don't like how proprietary the Fronius seems to be when it comes to TIG torches and accessories. But if you get a machine that comes with the TIG torch and can find a foot pedal, that that sounds like a good price, assuming you can trust the warranty at the place you are purchasing from (assuming it's not new with manufacturer warranty).
@@bigtb1717 the one I found comes with a tig torch, with box, no electrode holder, it’s a demo unit factory serviced with full warranty. I don’t like their tig torch either
If it's the TIG version with the built-in gas solenoid and such, that's a good price. That package is around $2,300 new. From what I can see, the included torch has a button, but no amperage control. If a foot pedal is important to you, I would research the availability of a foot pedal first.
have try 7018 3/32 rod?
Yes, I ran some 3/32" 7018 rods at around 95 amps and it ran great.
Do the 7018 run on the Stick setting or the cellulose setting?
Did you try it on 6011 on 3/32 and 1/8?
I didn't try 6011, but I'm confident it would run it just fine. It runs 6010 without issue and 6011 is easier to run than 6010.
@@bigtb1717 thank you bro! Looking forward to get one Fronius 180 myself.
Fronius is the best
Do you have any clue as to how many amps or watts this machine uses at 120 amps at 120 volts ?
I don't remember testing max draw on 120V with this machine. If I get a chance this weekend, I'll test it and let you know.
@@bigtb1717 gotcha I was curious if a 3000 watt renogy inverter would power this welder decently.
Super busy today. Hoping to get out in the garage tomorrow. I'll test it if I get a chance.
I would guess it will draw at least 3,000 watts when maxed out. 120A of output will probably be at least 24V, maybe more. Factor in a bit of loss and that's at least 3,000 watts drawn from the supply. My guess is that it will draw around 3,400-3,600 watts when maxed out. However, if you run 3/32" electrodes and keep the output around 85 amps, you'll probably be drawing more like 2,200-2,400 watts.
If I get a chance to test it tomorrow, I'll report back the numbers.
I will say that this is one of the most efficient stick welders I've tested. So it probably has as good a chance of running on your inverter as pretty much any welder out there.
@@bigtb1717 I have the es 180i pro but think maybe the fronius is close in terms of current draw, no doubt the fronius is better machine overall though. Thanks for taking the time to respond !!!
So this machine pulse on stick?
Yes, with adjustable frequency.
@@bigtb1717 nice! Thanks
Where is this machine made at?
Made in Austria.
Thanks
How much the cost for this welder?
Like almost everything these days, the price has gone up a lot since I made this video. The current price is nearly $1,500 US.
@@bigtb1717 thank you for your reply
TU on review. Looks like they changed the ground clam to thte usual cheap junk from thte picture on Amazon.better hold on to yours.
Yeah, I've seen both in pictures. I bought the welder at my local shop. I don't know if the one I got is how they will all be going forward, or if they've changed it for the worse. Hopefully the solid clamp is what they will continue to include.
Fronius Transpocket..good name for a starship...either way I'll keep my amico arc 200 , good name for a cab ;-)
170 amps on 110 volts for tig. For real?!
Most 110 inverters for tig can only push 80 95 amps.
Yes. With power factor correction and efficient circuits, you can get a lot of amperage with TIG because the arc voltage is relatively low. With TIG the arc voltage might be 8-12 volts. With stick, the arc voltage is much higher, so you can't get as much amperage out. For instance, 170 amps at 10 volts is only 1,700 watts. Assuming no losses (which isn't possible, but let's just go with it for now) that's less than 15 amps draw from a 120V outlet. Again, there will be losses, and if you don't keep a tight arc, your arc voltage will go above 10V. So a draw of 20-25 amps is much more likely. But that's still very reasonable.
Stick welding is different. The arc voltage is much higher with stick, which is why 120V welders often have 80-100 amps max output on 12V, with the only a relative few out there (like this Fronius) with power factor correction having 120-130 or so. With stick you might have an arc voltage of 20-25V. So take 100 amps times 20 volts and you are talking 2,000 watts. Even without losses that's 20 amps from the wall. With losses it's likely 25+.
And all that is assuming power factor correction. If a welder has a 0.7 power factor, you have to divide those amperages by 0.7. Now that 25 amps from the wall is suddenly 35. And when you have a cheap, generic stick welder providing 140 amps from 120V, it pulls something like 50 amps from a 120V circuit, which is completely impractical.
@@bigtb1717 Thank you for info. Would you pick the Fronius over Esuab? For the power correction?
The ESAB Rogue ES 180i actually does have power factor correction. It doesn't have quite as much output on 120V as the Fronius, but it does have power factor correction.
@@bigtb1717 Thank you for your review it was very helpful.
Actually cheap(er) ESAB models are not original ESAB design. They are generic Chinese design and are made by other Chinese manufactures for the ESAB. For example Chinese "WTL" make(made) some models for ESAB. Internal design is "generic", and even case is the same as their own models. Only Color is ESAB typical. And actually they are fine products, but it is on anyone to chose is it fine to pay extra 100 or more $ for the ESAB name on it ?!
That really doesn't surprise me. As you say, it's a fine machine, but in my opinion it's not up to the build standard of the Fronius. I only mentioned the internal design being different than the "common" Chinese design I see in a lot of machines, including the Everlast welder I reviewed, and even the ESAB 161 LTS. It was just interesting to see that the Rogue used something different.
Do you know if that's the same for the Esab Rebel emp 215?
That would explain why there seems to be more then expected number of faulty units.
@@deepwinter77 Yes, Rebel is "designed and engineered in the USA and assembled in China" www.esabna.com/us/en/dare/rebel-faqs.cfm