Toyota Fuel Pump Circuit Opening Relay
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- Опубликовано: 16 сен 2024
- If you like that power probe you can get it on Amazon here → www.amazon.com/...
Same goes for the tone generator here → www.amazon.com/...
Toyota Fuel Pump Circuit Opening Relay
every time i research a car problem, i end up finding one of your wonderful videos. They're always well done, concise, and clear. Thanks so much Brian!!
YES!!!! Thanks!
Brian,
you sir are my hero!!! I have a 1991 dlx all trac, and it has never let me down until last week, when out of the blue it developed a no start condition. I checked everything I could see to no avail, and then you came along and saved the day! I think its pretty safe to say I would never have found that relay without this video, let alone pulled it apart to discover carbon build up on the contact causing it not to close. Thank you so much for taking the time to share your knowledge!!!
Cheers, Brian
OMG!!! I love that I helped you! You're welcome. Did you subscribe and check out any of my other videos?
So many great details that others leave out. Especially filing the relay contacts, old school repairs that people dont do much any more.
You are a Hero among Men. Thank you for specifying the location of these parts. I've been looking everywhere.
Thanks brother!
i clean relay contacts all the time. the trick is to cut the plastic cap off cleanly so you can re-glue and use fine grit sandpaper (400-600 grit).
happy543210
Yep,I have been cleaning/restoring very expensive relay contacts for decades. Some would literally cost $1000s to simply replace.
Just a friendly tip, the cleaning/restoration job will be more reliable and last much, much longer using a relay contact burnishing tool such as these:
www.pkneuses.com/www.pkneuses.com/cont.htm
www.google.com/search?num=100&newwindow=1&site=&source=hp&q=relay+contact+burnisher&oq=relay+contact+burn&gs_l=hp.1.1.0l2.1129.22423.0.26135.19.16.0.3.3.0.273.2902.0j5j9.14.0....0...1c.1.64.hp..3.16.2638.0.60ullnSY_1E
The reason being that using sand paper leaves residue/debris behind that creates resistance and promotes arcing and new carbon buildup.
thanks Happy, You are the man. That's what I needed to know. Thank you!!
wish you were my neighbor just because your a great mechanic and I'm not talking about freebie stuff I believe a man should get paid for his work !
Thanks Gerald!
EVEN IF YOU ground the fuel pump terminal in the vehicle's check connector, the fuel pump still won't work if the circuit-opening relay is bad. on some cars, the diagnostics won't work either. the relay is referred to as a fuel pump relay on the wiring diagram, so you should maybe have started your hunt at the 'fuel pump relay', then when it fails the output current test, you can then energize the connector wire that runs to the dead output term. the fuel pump should then come to life. a factory service manual will always give the location details of stuff along the wiring (like the fuel pump relay). that book will also take you thru the stationary and functioning tests for the fuel pump relay. but looks you got it now. if you drive that thing out to the desert often, you might want to keep a good used relay in your mobile tool box!
The Circuit Opening Relay and Starter Relay are typically located together, I had the same trouble with the starting circuit. I used 2000 sandpaper to clean the contacts and wiped them with a scrap of paper towel, works perfectly now. One auto parts store said the relay was not in their warehouse.
My 94 Toyota Corolla had same issue after changing fuel pump. We tried cleaning it with sand paper and reusing it but my car kept stalling out while trying to drive it so we just bought a new one for $200. Waiting for it to arrive to get car going again. Since I've read this relay lasts for about 15 years or 160,000 mi I guess I used mine to almost that milage at 158,345. Great video, very informative.
Incredibly helpful video for anyone with one of these toyota's. Thanks for another great video
steve hall My shop doesn't know how to charge for electrical work - literally, not a part of the corporation for the most part. So tracing a few problems with a tone generator an saving tones of time will really help me on TONS of problems. Especially, with the tip to hook it to ground as well so all of ground doesn't generate tone.
Shoot. Can't find a relay? Hook a tone generator to the fuse that'll go to the relay. Found! THE best part is getting smarter around Briand. :)
One of the best video on fuel pump diagnostics that I've seen. Thanks.
Brian, in the olden days of points, plugs and condenser tuneups, every decent backyard mechanic had a "point file" in thier tool box. It is designed specifically to pass the file between the contact points several times and this would remove the carbon buildup from the points to make good contact. Some folks would call the process "burnishing" the points. You need to add point files to your tool arsenal. Excellent vid by the way.
I actually bought one of those point files to use on my 1989 mustang 5.0. Sometimes my brother had the tendency to quickly release the key ignition from the start position which would create a quick spark at the distributor rotor tip causing carbon build up at that tip and the contact points on the distributor for its perspective spark plug cable. At first I would use sand paper or a new sharp blade to scrape off the carbon build up on the contact points. This would solve the problem and the engine would turn on right away. I told my brother not to give it a quick turn of the ignition switch and to count 2 maybe 3 seconds when turning the switch to the START position to ensure that the engine would start. I bought this point file at autozone, surprisingly, and it came in handy. Later I replaced the ignitor, spark plug cables, distributor cap, etc with higher end brand parts. Haven't had the problem ever since. That simple point file is in my specialty tool box; tools that never lend out.
Excellent thanku I'm actually half way through this job done the pump key on no prime.........
Saved me a whole bunch of time ....I appreciate it.....!!
Brah! You are the ***t!! seriously tho. I have saved me from this nightmare. On Christmas day my car all of the sudden died out of nowhere on me. I did some standard tests and figured that problem was my fuel pump. I went out and bought a new one, installed it and made no difference. So I looked in the manual and basically bypassed the relay and found out that the pump works. So I took a deeper look into the wiring diagram and came across the Circuit Opening Relay. Problem I had now was nowhere in my manual showed me it's specific location and where to look. I wasted 2days trying to find it and then my twin sister comes along and shows me this video and said to me, "Don't get mad now but you might want to look at this." I watched this video and a fire was lite under my **s. You have no idea how mad I was at that ***k**g manual just pointing with the arrows in a diagram with no specifics. Thank You for this video, It literally saved me from this nightmare and was very helpful. Even if someone has an manufactured manual it really wouldn't show you exactly where it is specifically at. Thank you for showing the world in great step by step detail, you got yourself another subscriber
I rarely say things like this, but... that video was very, very helpful! We gotta' find you a point file, though. They're made specifically for cleaning up contacts (ignition, relay, etc) with a minimum of damage to them. Again, thanks - if I had spotted this video this morning, I wouldn't have spent five hours ripping the dash apart searching for that danged relay! 8)
Nice video. Found very similar relay on my 1990 Mazda B2600 pickup when diagnosing non running fuel pump. Looks like the relay on this Toyota is similar double coil, and the fuel pump wont prime after turning ignition on. Only starter crank will energize the second coil and runs the fuel pump when starting. Guess thats the way they done it in EFI systems "before my days" :D Fault in my car was short circuit in switching transistor which grounds the fuel pump relay, inside the ECU. Local ECU specialist was able to solder/replace the tiny part for 200 euro. Ecu problems seems common on those Mazdas, made by Mitsubishi electronics from poor quality parts at that time.
Kari Halonen: I have that same problem right now on my 1991 4runner 3vze 4x4. The fuel pump does not prime/power up whenever I turn the ignition key to ON. It has spark, it cranks strong, but the fuel pump doesn't turn on. I tried turning on the fuel pump by bypassing a paper clip on the NEG & IGN on the self diagnosis box & still the fuel pump doesn't power on. I followed the wire diagram on my haynes manual and I bypassed 2 female prongs on the black connector to the MAF and then pressed on the metal clip on the open circuit relay and this turns on the fuel pump. The fuel pump stays on as long as I keep pressing in the metal clip on the relay to make contact. When I stop pressing in on this metal clip, the fuel pump turns off. So I know that as long as the engine is running, the fuel pump should keep running also. What I don't know is why the fuel pump doesn't turn off after it primes with the ignition key on ON and while I bypass the 2 MAF female prongs, and at the same time I physically press with my finger the metal clip on the Open Circuit Relay. I'm thinking that since I have to bypass the 2 female prongs on the MAF cable, that this is what keeps the fuel pump running at all times instead of simply priming it via the relay. I need to open up the MAF & remove the black cap to see if there is carbon build up at the contact point inside. Or maybe the metal prong of this contact point inside the MAF became fragile and has bent out of the contact point. I've seen video where guys open up the MAF black cover only to find out that this contact point has corroded or has warped to the extent that there is no more contact. Oh well, it's a process of elimination. At this point I'm closer to solving the problem than being lost just scratching my head.
Thanks. Always love the professional way your share your knowledge.
Thanks for a very intuitive video. It explains it all... "THANKS" CHEERS
so informative for my vios problem! amazing to find relay yet refurbished it! thick manual like yellow pages phone book! respect!👍👏
thx for the written explanation of this relays use , really helped me figure problem, cheers
I have a 85 Celica GT-S and this is so helpful thank u I’m going to check out the opening relay.
Great video.. Youre very informative and well spoken. Thanks for sharing!
bud.. you are excellent at this and should have a disc series... available at walmart.. you'd get super rich within secods
Great video always appreciate the real life issues faced by us in the field. Thanks!
Great job Brian, like always enjoyed your video very much. Thank you.
Great well made video. I bought a new fuel pump relay for my 09 Corolla and I can't find where its located yet. Hardly anything online or on youtube about where it is located on the 09 almost like it is a big secret. The Haynes repair manual shows it but where it is on each model.
helped SOOOOOOOOO much! thanks, keep making vids bro.
Too cool. My 2004 Tacoma 4 cylinder with 75K does not get a signal occasionally to turn on the fuel pump. Finally, I stuck a DC meter on the blue fuel pump electric line and mounted it in-dash at the kick panel. LED, so you see it even if you can't read it without getting lower. Serves my need. No codes. When it happens, it cranks like crazy and you see no voltage. Key on and off a few times and all is good with voltage. When you first key on to just on, it never has voltage. Once started and you just drop back to on, then it shows voltage. Normal.
Going to take that Circuit breaking relay apart. Been ignoring it. Only happens occasionally. However, it died the other day running and took 4 tries to get it going with horns blowing behind me.
Brian you saved my car, thank you.
Great vid, lots of details. I knew it would be good as soon as I heard the voice! Might help me out today with a 99 Prizm. Thanks!
Welcome and thanks for making my day. I get mean comments, thanks, etc. It's fun to get a compliment comment too!
Great diagnostic. Tracking it down all the way to carbon inside a relay. You're too good. :) That short finder (tone generator) is surprisingly affordable especially compared to Power Probe version that has a similar device. Poor Airtex getting no love. Made in the USA but with their failure rate it's like they're made in China. :(
***** Unfortunately, that's the case with a lot of Western manufacturers these days. They have to cut costs wherever they can in order to compete with cheap Chinese labor.
***** Made in China, packaged in the USA/Mexico to meet the minimum local content spec to have the USA mark.
You know you can go to a Chinese manufacturer and they will happily put the Made in USA mark on the box for you, so long as you pay them they do not care, and will smile.
SeanBZA That crap used to be illegal. We had the stiffest most awesome labeling laws in the world. Now the U.S. can legally lie made in the USA as long as inside after you buy it you find the made in China.
DE Nichols It still is illegal for components made outside of the US (China) marked "Made in USA".
What you describe is "assembled in the USA with globally sourced
(usually China) components" which is a grey area and usually legal.
help.cbp.gov/app/answers/detail/a_id/492/~/requirements-for-country-of-origin-marking-on-goods-imported-into-the-u.s.
www.ftc.gov/tips-advice/business-center/guidance/complying-made-usa-standard
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Made_in_USA
patw52pb1 The laws must have improved again. I was having some freak out moments several years ago where it said proudly "Made in U.S.A" for a China label to fall in my lap as I opened my new knife package.
Some news caster commented on labeling laws being shot. Thanks for reinforming me correctly. :)
Thanks so much! im in trouble finding the Circuit open relay in my corolla!
Big help!
Looks good Brian.
I had the same problem on my 1991 4Runner 4x4 3vze. Except that the Circuipt Opening Relay is located in the front right passenger side, to the right of the glove compartment, just above the computer; so the glove box has to be removed and the relay is attacked to a small L- shaped metal bracket held to the frame with a 10mm bolt. The right fender has the antena almost directly above the relay so since my antenna was loose, water from washing the vehicle or rain leaked down the antenna hole and likely fell on top of the relay. When I opened the relay it had this white chalk like powder; white corrosion I call it. So most likely this contamination prohibited the contact points to have metal to metal contact. However since I wasn't willing to pay $130 for a cheap chinese relay at aurozone or amazon, I simply got 3 Circuit Opening Relays at the junkyard. And since the MAF is also related to the fuelp pump circuit, I also bought the MAF, costed only 40 bucks with 10 dollar warranty in case it was defective. How much do you think the relays cost? I'm sure any one of those original Toyota 30 year old relays will last longer than any of those new cheap chinese relays. I replaced both the MAF & the relay and the 4runner turned on and runs better than it has before. Later on I will reinstall my original relay to see if it starts with only the MAF I also replaced since the relay is the easiest to reconnect. Afterall maybe the relay may have not been the problem yet eventhough it has some white chalky contaminant. The real problem may have actually been the MAF. Regardless, the relay was about to break down anyways. Great video, it also helped me to solve my problem as to why the fuel pump wasn't activating.
Bro what a great vid helped me identify where the fuel pump is actually located and not in the back seat.... thats where the fuel sender is ... bugga .... and where the relay might be for a RHD. The added bonus of knowing the diagnostic plug can be used to check the pump is running which I have to do. Is it supposed to make a humming sound when running?
Hi my name is John, I just want to let you know that your video was very informative. I’m dealing with a 1991 Toyota truck and the circuit opening relay, at the end of your video you showed how to test it, the diagram at the bottom right shows to test center pin and lower right pin and I should have continuity. although my circuit tester Only beeps one time and then turns off as opposed to the other ones they continue to beep. what do you think, have you got a solution for me or is it a bad relay or not sure? Thanks
Hey man! this reminded me about a thing. My girlfriends mom got a 93-ish Toyota Celica that she managed to flood when it was a rainstorm so the water on the road turned out to be to deep... Now nothing happens. it works pretty long time but then there was some other problems (exhaust almost fell of and a bad rear tire). The starter relay doesn´t even click now. we´ve tried to push start it with another car, but nothing. we find out all four spark plugs had cracked ceramic, so they are new now. there´s no water in the fuel tank and the pump runs. Any idea what it could be? or atleast where to start looking. even if the starter doesn´t work, it would atleast started when being pushed. and also, since the starter doesnt work, we don´t know if it gets any sparks (hard to se when you´re being dragged behind another car haha).
sorry for this really long comment, but i´d want to make it run. nothing else for now, just to hear it atleast trying to start
You finally got a PowerProbe. Nice! Great tool as long as you know it's limitations.
Now all you need is a good 3/8" ratchet, something 14-16" with a rubber grip.
Do you ever use ALLDATA? The DIY site?
Some of them relays are located under the passenger side kick panel tucked in up top or on bottom in a little hole depends on who was working that day I guess. Just a Lil more info
Those are great little cars worth fixing I have a 1991 Toyota Camry V6 le and it runs like hell and I fixed everything on it ...
Bravo👏👍 I love this diagnosing machine please what is the name of the machine I don't even know if I can get it in Nigeria😨🚙
Looks good. I'm surprised you don't have a point file.
Chris
shadowdog500 I have a whole set, but the contacts here are to rigid and the gap is too small- most tech's these days don't even know what points look like- let alone have tools to service them.
briansmobile1 newer vibes have the same thing, well vibe/matrix it is up under the dash dude, guys like to splice the after market auto starts into them and well over time corrosion will get into there amazing sealed soldered joint and cause a no start
thanks very much for your teaching, your are the best
the fan relays are the same power to off, if you take the fan relay out the fan will run
The Circuit Opening Relay or COR(located behind glove box in 4runners) is a complicated and expensive relay also necessary for EFI relay to function, as I understand it. Here's the kicker: Haynes manual(and a rumor suggests other manuals as well) give false information to the ohm reading test on the COR! So I concluded my 120 dollar COR was bad and went about taking it apart and rewinding 1 of 2 coils in order to get continuity between two terminals. However, despite the new winding functioning, I didn't trust that it would last, so went ahead and got new COR(Also, I had to bend some metal parts in order to unwind/rewind coil and was not able to put it back together perfectly..so I didn't trust it). I then did same ohm test on it(the brand new relay) and what do you know? It also DID NOT have continuity between the same two terminals! (pouring gasoline on Hanes manual now). I'm still confused though, as I took apart the COR completely and saw for myself that continuity IS necessary between those two terminals. I looked at it from every angle, so to speak, and triple confirmed that to be true. In other words, the two terminals are connected to 1 of 2 coils(The COR is essentially two relays in one box). Meaning, there HAS to be continuity going through the coil or it can't possibly function. So the question becomes, if that second coil is not necessary(as the new relay suggested) why the hell am spending 120 dollars on a complicated relay that could actually be just one 12 dollar relay!? (Now throwing a match onto gasoline soaked Hane's manual.):)
If anyone can put the final word on what the ohm readings/continuity(with it unplugged) should be, please share your knowledge!
Very helpful information
Also, some sites say that older Camrys(1980's-1992?) have same Circuit Opening Relay/COR as 3.0/3vze 4runners. Others suggest they are different... this is me sitting in the dark...
Sanding what was once a polished contact - - - it won't last long. You did this video in 2015. Is the car still running or did you have to replace the FPR (Fuel Pump Relay)?
I've jumped that diag port to bypass the fuel pump circuit. Didn't hear the pump working and also checked the wires going to the pump. Found it has voltage. Replaced the fuel pump after that.
I have something issues with engine. Randomly, my engine starts to jerking and loosing power and I have to stop engine and turn it on back again. Most times happens when I run high rpms or I request power to the engine (4A-GE 1.6 red&black top). I replaced the old pump, the tps, the ECU, cleaned up the throttle body and ISCV valve (IDK why but idle is a bit unestable, sometimes keeps over 800rpms and others about 650-700rpms), replaced all pipes, cleaned fuel tank, replaced fuel filter, replaced new alternator, corrected ignition timing, replaced air filter, cleaned the coolant circuit with coolant cleaner an G12+ coolant replaced every 2 months 2 times, new oil and oil filter, new intake air temp sensor, replaced the MAF and mixture potenciometer (no lambda Ox sensor), replaced the vacuum pipes, replaced tvis vacuum pipes and electronic valve (tvis valves sounds like *bopbopbop* when they are hot but they opens and close normally), replaced the battery, checked voltage, installed TOYOCOM (to inspect the ignition timing ms, EFI Voltage, engine temp, TPS, rpms, and so, and timing is between 1.7ms most of the time when idling), the fuel pump installed was new but for Celica 2.0 3sge and 3sgte and for 1.6 MR2 mk1 (my car is a 4A-GE Toyota Celica T160), I think the fuel pump is powerful enough to move the fuel properly to the engine since it was made for bigger size engines and for mr2 4age, I will try to change it and use other more powerful (right now pumps @ 3.5 bar 112L/H and the new one pumps @ 6 bar 112L/H) what do you think about my problem? What it could be? Thanks mate:)
Since you've gone to the effort of making this video, why not list the model and year of the vehicle in the title instead of just "Toyota"?
I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla LE and just put new fuel pump in and need to check circuit opening relay but can't find video on where in car it is and how to tell which relay it is and how to remove to replace. Any advice?
I'm in the exact same boat as you were in this video currently have my open circuit relay off the car for bench testing but I am curious did you replace it or did you just clean the contact points because I do notice the same carbon buildup on one of my contacts and they are very expensive 4 what they are so I much rather just go with the sand paper route and probably change fuel pump and fuel filter also. thank you for the great video and I hope to hear from you
LIFE SAVER. THANK YOU
just wondering if a 92 camery has that open relay in same place. Great vid and thanks for showing
I'm pretty sure it does. If not, check the passenger side under the hood.
If you are still on here do I have to use the diode or can I use a 10 amp fuse in between for the relay diodes just keep juice flowing one way and not back track right
I have a 1989 Camry DKL station wagon 4 cylinder 3FS, tear the interior apart completely to restored.now I put back all cables and car doesnt start, no signal to the pump check all fuses and nothing,except the one you show it in the center console.it may get wet ,since the car has no windshield and it was car covered. also i noticed the hazard lights go crazy fast only the the back lights works in hazard mode and the front ones don't. engine was overhauled completely since the car is been sitting almost a year found the spark plugs full of oil in the connection part inside the cable lug is oil also . don't know if the mechanic change spark plugs seals cover or I may have some other issue,My dad complained that the car before it was engine overhauled consume oil.but it has no leaks Any Idea what can i do?? to avoid to set it on fire??
You doing a great videos brother, thank you so much.
i have a 90 corolla. my car is trying to stall while under acceleration but doesnt (check engine light comes on for a split second then goes away) then wen i get to a stop light....wen i accelerate, itll stall completely.....u think thats fuel pump related?
why does the fuel indicator go up and down even though I have changed the fuel float
good video, good details
Hey Brian.....I have a 86 toyota pickup with the 22re. I have changed the fuel pump. I drove it a day or so and the it wouldnt start. found that the AM2 fuse was blown. I changed it. It started up for a min and then it backfired and shut off. The fuse did not blow again! I have fuel at the intake & ignition at the coil. All fuses are good. What could be wrong?
That really was a great video!
My 99 corolla just cranks on the first attempt to start.The first time the key is in the on position, no sound from the fuel pump. On the second time turning the key to the on position,I hear the fuel pump operating and the car starts right up.It has a new fuel pump, I see 2 relays listed, 1. Fuel Pump / Circuit Opening Relay and 2. Fuel Injection Relay. I am leaning toward the Fuel Pump / Circuit Opening Relay. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
There is a special file that is made just for these relays. It is called a Contact Burnisher.
thebigzor Never heard of it. Now I have some on the way for the price of a cheap relay! → www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006C47JOI/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B006C47JOI&linkCode=as2&tag=httpwwwyou00f-20&linkId=RIGRBF7PNHI4BMIW
thebigzor You get to be famous on tomorrow's video on burnishing files! Thanks again!
Thumbs up Brian
hi great stuff but I have a AE100 95 corolla and the relay isn't located where this video suggests anyone can help?
Bro.... on my DLC1, +B Port didnt give any power... Where the problem lies?
my daihatsu needs one of these relays. this one's black and yellow. what the hell does that mean?? the green toyotas one look like they would plug right on. my better sense tells me to use the same color code. i'm wondering about after-market one, too. whats a mother to do??
Would this work the same for a 1992 Toyota paseo
Is it bad to admit that I feel asleep? Not your fault Brian that nap time included the need to click play. lol
I did get halfway through first.
My asleep brain turned all the comments you made about the fuel pump into comments about electrical connections since that was the last I saw. When I rewatched it put the silliness all together.
My circuit relay keeps clicking and the car cranks no start I hit the circuit relay and it acted like it wanted to start. Any suggestions?
good one, thanks...
thank you.. I'm going to try this.
Ah ah! 25 years ago my 78 Celica ..I thought my fuel pump went bad ..pulled it and at the last moment ( knew nothing of electrical diagnostics at the time) I hooked it straight to the battery and watched it shoot water for 6 + feet ..so put it back in and ran a switched power wire to the pump ...also worked as a poor mans fuel shut off anti theft ; I would forget sometimes to hit the switch ..my car could only go about 300 feet
deepsquat600 Great story!
yeah what I meant to add there was I wonder if THAT relay was my problem?
deepsquat600
This particular design of relay as a part of the fuel cut off system to protect you in an accident...guessing here...I think came around in the 90's. Maybe a little earlier.
You probably had a simple wiring problem...well, not know where the problem is...simple could be horrible without that tone device.
I have a 2007 Toyota RAV4 vase 4 cylinder that just had a short while wiring fog lights. The car cranks but won’t start. I’m finding a bunch of diffeeent info on it some mention efi relay, fuel pump relay, and c/opn relay no one seems to know where these are. I have a marking for fuel pump in the engine fuse box but nothing is there. Car was running fine before. Do you think you can help me find this relay or whatever is stopping the car from starting? Thank you!
Also when it happened the radio fuse and odb fuse was blown. I replaced and radio came on odb reader powers up but can’t establish a link.
This is the closest I can get to the same problem my celica has....it will crank but won’t start cuz the fuel pump won’t turn on
Way to go Brian, and YaaaY! A video with some Spankiness! :)))))
Good info! Thanks
Nice work. Best wishes to Spanky
Thanks!
Do you still have this vehicle?
Legend
please i want to location of feul pump relay Toyota preado 2008
How did you get Linda Cardellini to do a cameo at the end of your video?
Brian is fun to hang out with so I threw him a bone. LOL
D6Spanky Hahaha.
But seriously, when is season two of Freaks and Geeks coming out?
lolz larkin Probably after they come out with season 2 of Firefly. :D
92 Toyota Camry fuel pump relay
Tell the name off books
My G-D who thinks of hiding these parts. Instead of all the political correctness these days we need to hunt down these engineers! Never thought of using my tone and pickup on my car, great idea! Best of luck to you and Spanky!!
Mike
Mike Shelly Thanks Mike! In all reality, this car is almost a quarter century old and this is the first time it had needed to be accessed. That's actually GOOD engineering. And the only reason it went bad, was because the car sat and got rusty in the gas tank which caused too much resistance and heat to the contacts. That's not too terrible. To me, bad engineering is designing things that leak no matter what you do, are of poor materials, or vibrate to death on the road, or fail over and over again through campaign after campaign of TSB's, recall's and patch ups. Basically Taurus' and Altima's over 100k miles.
; D I HATE those @#$% cars! HA!
briansmobile1 Just replaced the fuel sender in my VW, and bought an aftermarket one, as the OEM is way too expensive, as it of course contains the fuel pump. Same white plastic turned yellow brown in mine, and the fuel pickup filter was half clogged with fine debris from the assorted fuel filling station tanks. Of course being aftermarket I had to "finesse" it a little to get it to actually work, but it at least now will read properly on the gauge.If it conks after a year I will be doing a swap between the two to combine the best of both, as they are direct copies down to the tooling marks ( old one was genuine VW though) on the mouldings.
Those Toyotas are pretty reliable, I rebuilt the engine on mine after it blew a head gasket on overheating from coolant loss, and did a lot of practise on rust removal and plating of panels. Service regular and it will do another 20 years. As the old saying is Everything keeps falling off - Toyota. Mostly bulletproof drive trains though, aside from the Cressida 2l or larger, which loves to eat the differential. Drive not like you stole it and it will just carry on.
Kidding? Its a 91 and still running..
***** Still a shedload of 1960's era Toyota Coronas still running around here, along with all the Corolla variants ever built, in large numbers and varying condition. There are still Toyota Super 16's and Hi-Aces running as taxis, on the road 24/7/365. You can't tell the mileage, as the odometer either has worn out or has been around the million km mark a few times. Helped a friend with his Corona pickup, though we did decide to sell it, not enough time to give it justice. Had to do a lot of electrical work, along with some bodywork and massive rust replacement. was fun getting that fuel tank back in with the ultra stiff old piping, as there are no replacements available that fit, though we did eventually make a steel elbow and used new pipes to get the thing in and not leaking. It arrived driven down 400km, with brakes that were best described as "mostly there" and a clutch that mostly wasn't. Funny enough clutch off the shelf, and brakes went a few oversizes on the reline.
briansmobile1 For sure quality is the utmost on the list BUT you should not have to dig into a dash to fix a fuel pump issue. I don't want to put my mechanic out of business he has to eat too but as a dyi'er I should have a fighting chance to fix a simple issue like a relay. If that relay was in the engine bay or with his other friends it would have been a 5 min job bet it took you a lot more than that. Good job by the way!!
I have a bunch of those Toyota relays I stripped out of a few cars I was going to send Spanky but I loosed the address she sent me in email to send it to. I probably have one of those fuel sending relays.
Comment on one of my videos and I'll send it to you again.
y is my fuel pump line
not getting eney power at all
A bad fuse, or a fuel pump cut out relay that's bad. Try the jumpers on the DLC plug under the hood. Jump the power wire to the F or FP wire. That should sent power right to the pump.
ok thanks main it works
Mail me your tone generator.
When I search for Toyota Avalon why the f*** do I always get Camry and some other b*******?
Where is the fuel pump relay for a Toyota Avalon XLS 1997, not the EFI relay! Where is the fuel pump, it is not as we see here, inside the cabin it's not under the radio.
and if it's just a bit of corrosion couldn't you just bang under or to the side of the dash with a hammer to knock some of that stuff loose?
It works for a bad fuel pump.
Ugh... Airtex pumps are such utter garbage... I've had good luck with Precision brand on the lower end of things, though! Typically about the same price as the Airtex units; they just run quieter and last longer. ;)
rhkips I honestly believe Airtex telling AutoZone that 80%-90% of the failures were garbage in the gas tank related. (Word of mouth from a parts salesman . . . sorry, I love my parts guys, but I can't be sure of this reference.)
Trouble is...that always happens and most people can't afford to pay a mechanic to do a thorough clean out...so their excuse for a bad rep. doesn't hold any gas, I mean water.
Yes, this should cause premature failures, but just a bit of crud shouldn't bother most fuel pumps or even new cars with Airtex failure rates would be failing due to the crud that certainly comes from some/all of pumping stations.
rhkips I've had them fail inside of a year with perfectly clean strainers. I WANT TO LOVE THEM.... but can't. They just don't perform as should be expected.
DE Nichols
Yeah, I once had four go bad within a year on the same vehicle. The fuel tank was replaced at the time the first Airtex pump went in, and only top-tier fuel from a known-good source was ever put in the vehicle. As it was my own personal vehicle, I can say with confidence that there was no contamination in the tank.
After warrantying out the fourth unit, O'Reilly's gave me a Precision brand unit, which outlasted the car at >2 years. Ever since then, I've used Precision pumps on customer vehicles when OEM units weren't an option, and haven't had a single complaint or comeback. :)
briansmobile1
It's really sad; they used to make such good equipment. My experience with them has been so bad that I avoid anything with the Airtex/Wells brand on it. I don't know if their other stuff is garbage, but I don't want to find out...