I'm pretty sure that these engines aren't 6 volts - at least, that's not what we used on this one 😅 I got a bit worried so went out to the garge to check - the starter was marked as 12V. I'm not immune to making those kinds of mistakes, lol. Every old electric start OMC I've had I've run 12 volts on....I think OMC starting using 12V in 1957? It's been awhile since I've run an earlier electric start model. But, now that I think about it, the earlier OMC engines really just have the starter only, and don't use the battery for the ignition, so it's a moot point on those. It'd spin the motor up faster and you may not want to excessively crank on it would be the main concern, I suppose. The engines smaller and previous to the big monster in this video also typically didn't re-charge the battery either (so generator and voltage regulator are out).....the "charging kit" was an add-on, and I haven't seen many of them on motors I've purchased. Andrew did run a 1955 Johnson 25 HP Electric Start model some years ago on a Lyman he had, and I'm 99 percent positive it used a 12V battery. Based on the above though, not much on that motor to be concerned about except maybe the starter rating. They're cool looking engines - but, with the experience I have on running a large MK75 on my Vagabond, which is a bit more racier and higher horsepower (and I'm guessing not that much heavier?)......you still made a very good call running something else 😂👍 -Brock
We had the Evinrude version of this outboard in the 70s pulled 2 skiers out water like it was nothing. We did have to get pulled in on a couple of occasions ran out of gas.
@@bobfrievalt6392 we have a couple of 58 Starflites as well! We actually mounted one up originally before firing these. The styling of the johnson just fit much better with this boat. The Evinrude has more of a 1960s look to it. Fuel consumption seems to be a big issue 😅
Ya we should talk. I have some stuff for this motor and a lot of props lol. Fat fifties are far from my favorite and got rid of most of them years ago. But you can see one on a boat i am selling. Its a 59 fat fifty. These motors need to be in water to run them. I am shocked you got muffs to work at all. But i have to say thats a very clean motor and should run out good. You can run them 50 to 1 on oil too its fine and you wont foul plugs. They had a big problem with that. They suck fuel like there is no tomorrow too. Omc finally improved fuel economy some in 1961 with a new reed valve design but fat 4s are fat 4s. I have several . Mercs are way more efficient plus lighter and faster too.
Nice! Yeah, I picked these up from a guy about 3 or 4 hours away. He had a few fat fifties and was getting rid of all of them. I snagged the Johnsons. Super clean original motors, was hard to beat them at the price. I have a couple of 1958 Evinrude Starflites as well. Picked up one of them for $150 with a Ride Guide steering system and electrics 😁 It seems the consensus is that muffs don't work well on them. Must be a bit different, as I've had muffs work great on the older OMC engines (such as the 35 HP ones). I'll probably still do a water pump on it just to be safe, may do it while I swap the cleaner lower unit from the other motor I have over to it. I've also heard that the fuel consumption is going to blow my mind. So far, I'm planning on running twin 6 gallon cans. Yeah, these motors are cool but compared to other motors at the time, I think I would have probably taken a *gasp* "Dock Buster" Mercury over a fat fifty. Or, just opted for the 35 HP Super Seahorse lol.
Nice!!! Yeah, they really were beautiful motors during their time. I also really like the Johnson Meteor version of the motor you had also! Super cool.
@@belowfray5251 I ended up cannibalizing several motors for a starter and coil, and bolted on a Force steering tube to upgrade to cable steering, also never had reverse because whoever put the lower unit together last pinched the wire on the reverse shift solenoid. We called it Frankenmotor and it pushed my 14 foot Riviera bowrider to over 55 mph lol
Dude my GoPro Media Mod went to **** too! And the latch broke, so it won't stay on. It sucks becuse I really liked having a better mic built into it. I'd love to have a better camera with mic for what I do, but unless it's a go pro I'm pretty sure I would trash it quickly. Great editing on this one, FASSSSTTTT cuts! Cheers!
LOL, another GoPro media mod / product failure?! I'm shocked! 😂 What really upset me about it wasn't that it just broke, but that it fooled us out for a bit by allowing the Go Pro's on board microphone to pass through audio instead (so the "check check" wasn't caught on the quick camera review). Audio quality is really important to me, especially when capturing engine noise. That's what actually got me to start messing around with mics originally. So for that to happen when we were doing a running video sucked. I honestly was never really impressed with the media mod's built in microphone sound after I tried some other external mics. It's much better than the built in mic though obviously, and it's easy to use. Once I started finding other mics to use though and also got a Rode wireless setup, I pretty much just used it for the USB port and cold shoe attachments on the side and top. After it fried, I started using the Go Pro USB micrphone adaptor and hanging it off the camera. (I did replace the media mod eventually, just to have a backup to my USB adapter). I also ended up buying two Small Rig cages for the Go Pros after the media mod failure, and I honestly like them better. One aluminum, and one plastic. The plastic one has a holder for the USB mic adapter. Both are nicer than the media mod for cold shoe use because they allow the battery door to be opened without removing the GoPro from its attachment (which drove me nuts with the media mod). None of the action cameras have stellar mics on board, but if/when I upgrade I'm going to either DJI or Insta 360 (already have an X3, so it'd either be their Ace or Go model). My brother has both DJI Cameras and Insta 360's after initially starting with Go Pro Hero's and having the same issues. He likes the DJI's alot because they work seamlessly with their wireless mic setup (which he also has) and uses the Insta 360 Go by clipping it on the bill of his hat when he's around people (since it's not as noticeable). The Go 2 actually produces decent enough audio that he doesn't use his wireless setup as much anymore. And, of course, according to his Feedback, both of those cameras work, all the time....no freezing up, overheating, breaking, or losing footage. Thanks on the compliments for the editing, it took a bit! The video we just put out today took an insane amount of editing time on both of our parts, I'm currently exhausted😅. Gotta make those cuts faster and faster with attention spans these days! 👍 Cheers! -Brock
@@retro_grade Yeah I think I'm just too lazy to do a seperate audio thing.... then try to sync it... meh. But yeah, changing the batteries on the media mod was sooooooo dumb. Link to the cages? I should probably just get an external mic and cage like you are doing....
@@ADDvanced the two cages that I bought are below. I think I saved a few bucks off of the price at the time due to an Amazon day or something of that nature. The aluminum one is a really solid feeling unit and I love it, but doesn't have the Go Pro USB mic adapter holder to use underneath of it like the plastic one does. So, I bought both of them to try and have been happy with both. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0978Z9S5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XVD7S2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I always feed the external microphone directly into one of the cameras (typically the GoPro) and only have to sync them if I'm shooting with several cameras at once. Lately, that's been in every video so I guess I'm syncing lol. But, it really isn't too big of a deal and then once everything is synced up, it's easy to break up the views and cut them up. I got carried away in early times of starting RUclips and blew alot of money (in many cases unnecessarily) on stuff. I've also tried alot of different micrphones, many of which now just sit. In all that I messed with, the one microphone that does everything well and I pretty much have been resorting to for everything now is the Sony ECM-LV1, which costs around 30 bucks and continues to sound better in all environments (to me, at least) than many other more expensive microphones that I've tried. It's nuts....they just seem to work well for everything (talking, voiceover, engine noise, capturing background noise), with little fuss or tweaking, and they're fairly cheap. www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJQXJRM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_7&=&crid=3PCRJ3PGS8JHZ&=&sprefix=ecm-lv1
Outboard engines from that time were fuel guzzlers. The latest generation uses only 1/3 of the fuel. Makes me think of my youth an afternoon sailing around with my father in a big speedboat 200 liters of gasoline was used.
They certainly were, with the V4s like this one being the worst offenders. I don't think that the 35 HP engines were that awful, seems like I could go boating for a full day on a 6 gallon can of fuel, maybe two cans. The speedboat you were in maybe had a couple of big Mercury engines on it? But, they are certainly more fun to run that new ones. I absolutely love every aspect of them.
Get a manual and a water pump rebuild kit (they are available) and change it out, chances are the impeller is hardened into the position it sat in for the last few decades, you should get a better spray of water out of the exhaust. clean the carbs and lubricate all the moving linkages with lithium grease. Change the gear oil in the lower unit and put it on the boat.
Oh, I've got a manual if needed and have done several water pumps. I'm sure it'll get changed out before it hits the water, maybe even lower unit seals while it's off. It's possible the last guy who owned it changed it out, as he's an outboard enthusiast...but even then, that's like 6 or 7 years. And they're so easy on the larger motors typically because of the split design shift shaft which can be disconnected at the side (versus the smaller ones that require power head removal). I guess I'm not sure why we made such a deal of it pumping water....other than primarily to make sure we could continue running it for a couple minutes on the stand. I thought the spray was pretty weak, but I've also run very few older engines that have thermostats on them. On the OMC stuff, I've oddly enough seen very few impellers that are rotted, broken, failed....it's typically as you said, with the vanes pre-set into position, worn, and creating a weaker stream. Seems fine until you throw a new one in and then it's evident. We'll probably throw an impeller in it, change the lower unit oil out, throw it on the boat, and try it before doing much else (points adjustment, carb service, etc). We're pretty sure we'll end up keeping it on there but it is a large motor so there is a VERY slight possibilty we may switch to a 35 instead.
You won't see much of a spray coming from that exhaust relief, just a little watery mist when the thermostat opens. Probably gonna need the carb cleaned, don't forget to check/change the gear lube
Yeah, I've seen some tell me also there should be more. But, they may also be basing that on engines that don't have a thermostat. Either way, we'll likely change the impeller out to be safe. It may need carb service, we'll see. We may likely try it out first on the water to see how it runs. Gear lube definitely.
@@retro_grade Well, you are surely not getting the same amount of water supply from the hose you would get from being submerged in water. In either case, you won't see much water discharge from the exhaust relief hole, except some mist spray when the thermostat opens, which we did see in your video. Unfortunately, there were no water pump indicator sprays on these older engines. Seeing a constant flow of water from the exhaust relief at idle usually means the thermostat is bad or has been removed. Don't know if your engine has a "hot light", but check its operation if it is equipped with this feature.
These work much better in a drum of water, with muffs most of the water just runs out the lower water intake (as can be seen in video). I've tried using muffs & even fabricated a hose adapter for the lower intake, but they just won't pump like they will with both intakes submerged.
That seems to be the consensus. I've had the older motors without thermostats work just fine with muffs, oddly enough....even better than old school Tempo adaptor that fits over the intake tube (looks like a taco shell).
Ooh man, the boat my family had when I was a kid (and I owned up until like 2 years ago) had that exact engine originally (it was later swapped out for a 1962 75 hp). I had always wanted to get one and use it on the boat. But alas, the boat is now someone elses problem...
Wow, what made you get rid of that boat?? They're so gorgeous and aren't too many around! I'm also not sure I could ever get rid of a boat I've had that long (check out the two Alumacraft Queen Merrie videos where I bring the family boat home :) ). It's good to know of another example of a boat setup with this large/heavy motor installed as well! Thanks for sharing!!!
@@This.Here.Channel that happens, especially with a fiberglass one! My family just scrapped an old Mark Twain this season that had finally reached its last season and wasn't worth fixing anymore.
My dad had a 62 Johnson 10hp ran great we had a 14 ft aluminum v bottom the moved up to a 64 28 hp ran great for years until it started having problems and my dad got rid of it then a 74 25 never used it
Well, in all fairness, while the "$400 motor" portion of the title was defintely added so that RUclips would actually promote it to more than 100 people (missing accomplished there), this was definitely not a motor that we picked up off the street because it was a "good deal" and we couldn't afford anything else. This was the EXACT motor that we wanted to re-motor this boat with, and one of us drove nearly 4 hours one evening to pick it up, along with another one exactly like it. They're becoming fairly rare, and it's the first one either of us have seen in person. Now, personally....we would have titled the video "BEAUTIFUL 1958 Johnson Super Seahorse Fat Fifty First Start". But, we've unfortunately had to start wising up on our thumbnails and titles to make them more reachable to the "general public" :)
Need an engine hoist with an eyehook. Piece of cake. Also, is it better to have a new motor? Well, I don't know how much you paid for this, but it is clearly a very low hour motor; if you ensure the lower unit gears, bearings and shifter dog are in good shape, install a seal kit (because it WILL leak after 66 years) and replace all the electronics with OMC original replacements, put a new belt on, rebuild the intake/carb, and do something about the wiring harness (they are NOT available), the $6000 or so you'll save over a new 50 hp engine will buy a a few thousand gallons of gas. I think the better deal is to find a 35 hp of the same vintage/quality and use that. It's way better on gas if that matters, and it is far lighter. Still a very cool motor. Another Fat Fifty lives on!
See, the thing about an engine hoist is it's always one of those things that you don't want to store, and when you need to borrow one you either can't find one or don't want to go get it / haul it back either. In the spot that an engine hoist could go, I could store a few more non-running outboards that I don't need 😂. You'll get to see the ridiculousness of how we manage to get it on without one at some point. She should be fine to try with water pump replacement and gear oil change to try. If the shift dogs are worn out, that'll be evident pretty quick once it's in gear and under power. Going completely through it to make it perfect isn't going to happen until we decide that we don't want to swap it out to a 35 HP engine, as you mentioned. That's really the other option. Getting a new motor for an old boat is NEVER the option that anyone should go with. Ruins the entire look and experience of owning and operating a beautiful classic like this one.
They'll do good in a drum when completely submerged. Ours just wasn't large enough. I have seen them pump fairly strong as well when hooked to a hose, but I'm also used to motors without a thermostat. The biggest different is that motors don't run the same on muffs / hose hookup as they do when actually submerged, with the exhaust under water. Which is why we didn't bother tuning on the carburetor or anyting else once it ran, as it's fairly pointless. If we don't get a barrel large enough we'll save that activity for the lake.
The main one is, but water also comes in through the side as well. It was pulling in water fine using the earmuffs (probably could use a new water pump at minimum though). I have an old Perko adapter that fits over the tube you're referring to, and oddly enough it doesn't work that great....the ear muffs or adapters that fit on the side of the motor work better. Also, even if that tube is under the water (which this one was), it won't necessarily pump. The pump inside needs to be submerged completely. Running the engines in buckets/barrels is mainly more due to have correct jetting and hearing how they sound. Engines run on muffs don't run quite how they will when actually sitting in the water.
@@frogcassady same here! Everything goes slow when you have too many project though, LOL. What area are you located in? Yeah....Kentucky, and much of the south in general, is DRY of classic boats and motors. It's really sad....
Yeah, I wondered on that one. I always default to 16:1 when testing, as many of smaller Johnsons of this era with solid bronze bushings require it. So my pressure cans are always 16:1, and I simply transferred a bit of that fuel into the single line can.
Anyone can run into a boat shop and buy a bland, boring, plastic covered new engine. Not everyone has the skill and class to run the oldies! - Official Retro_Grade Response
The reasons that you mention here are the EXACT reasons that I choose to run old outboards (fuel consumption I'll give to you, I guess.....on the larger engines is likely better, I could care less on the smaller ones). Sure, if you're out fishing, for instance, fine - yeah, a 4-stroke is nice. Starts right up (at least when they're new....give them some years and see how that pans out), runs quiet. But, if I'm out boating, I hate them.....there's no sound, no smell, nothing. They're boring, they have no soul. They look cheap, bloated, and hideous. Why anyone would mount one on an old boat is beyond me. Any time I see a beatiful hull like this and my eyes follow the lines, once they reach a new motor on the back I either vomit, cry, or both....then promptly walk away in disgust. I've had a couple of newer 4 cycle motors I've purchased in my life when I lost my way as a classic boat/motor enthusiast, and I was instantly reminded why I hate them so much the moment I took them out on the water. Sold each one a week after purchase/use, every time....and it real restraint on my part to not just unscrew the transom clamps and drop them overboard 😂 -Brock
Our Camera Man #2 / Technician was supposed to turn the water back on once we started cranking again hard and got the engine to fire. They did not perform to task, and have since been terminated from the company.
@romanlahage5144 yeah it probably would. Getting it out from under the motor when full though is the pain. I normally use cheap dry bags and fill with water that work great. But the lower unit is too wide on that motor to fit into one.
Seems like all youtubers have trouble with the gopros. Is there no other options for camera's out there? Just found your channel and love the old boats !!!
@scottporter6201 there are, but the problem is that you don't know any better initially and get too far invested to go back. GoPro has that name, but they're slowly losing it the last couple of years. DJI or Insta 360 is the way to go and will be what we use next. But with the channels staggeringly slow growth, I'm reluctant to drop another dime into it for quite some time. It'll be years before I make up the several grand that I'm already in the hole on 😅
Which models, and in what way? The older twin cylinders seem to do fine with them, if needed (versus running them in my "test sock"). At least in terms of how much water comes out of the exhaust comparatively. I have a vintage Tempo flush adaptor that fits over the main intake tube near the exhaust (which I figured would work better than muffs), but oddly enough it doesn't. I spent a long time trying to find one as well, as they're fairly rare and was pretty disappointed when I tried it. Looks like a taco shell with a hose adaptor on it. Do they run the same? Absolutely not. Which is why I don't bother tuning on them until the exhaust is submerged.
@@retro_grade all i know is they need the impeller to be fully submarged to push water as they are not tight fitting (not self priming) and sometimes the muffs dont provide enough pressure.
@scottporter6201 oddly enough, I don't have a big barrel to run in. I got so sick of storing one and dumping it out every time. For smaller motors, I actually use a cheap Walmart dry bag, pull it up around the lower unit and tie to the motor, and fill it with water. When I'm done, push in on the clip and let it drop. It works great. However, the larger motors won't even fit in the larger 20l ones, too wide. At some point I'd like to custom stitch one up. And most times with the larger engines if I get them started on muffs, I just take the boat to the lake anyways :) Thanks for the comments!
Beautiful engine, great video
Thanks, we appreciate it!
I actually almost bought one for my vagabond years ago. The 6 volt, and fact that it had not run in years scared me away. Great looking hoods!
I'm pretty sure that these engines aren't 6 volts - at least, that's not what we used on this one 😅
I got a bit worried so went out to the garge to check - the starter was marked as 12V. I'm not immune to making those kinds of mistakes, lol.
Every old electric start OMC I've had I've run 12 volts on....I think OMC starting using 12V in 1957? It's been awhile since I've run an earlier electric start model. But, now that I think about it, the earlier OMC engines really just have the starter only, and don't use the battery for the ignition, so it's a moot point on those. It'd spin the motor up faster and you may not want to excessively crank on it would be the main concern, I suppose. The engines smaller and previous to the big monster in this video also typically didn't re-charge the battery either (so generator and voltage regulator are out).....the "charging kit" was an add-on, and I haven't seen many of them on motors I've purchased.
Andrew did run a 1955 Johnson 25 HP Electric Start model some years ago on a Lyman he had, and I'm 99 percent positive it used a 12V battery. Based on the above though, not much on that motor to be concerned about except maybe the starter rating.
They're cool looking engines - but, with the experience I have on running a large MK75 on my Vagabond, which is a bit more racier and higher horsepower (and I'm guessing not that much heavier?)......you still made a very good call running something else 😂👍
-Brock
That motor is the bomb, the style and colors are jazzy definitely a keeper congrats make it happen 😁
Thanks! We'd been looking for a Fat Fifty for that boat since we bought it and knew we needed to re-motor it. We'll make it happen for sure!
Nice motor from the age of Flash Gordon 👍🏻
Yes it is, thanks! Funny how much of that stuff back then is styled in that way also!
We had the Evinrude version of this outboard in the 70s pulled 2 skiers out water like it was nothing. We did have to get pulled in on a couple of occasions ran out of gas.
@@bobfrievalt6392 we have a couple of 58 Starflites as well! We actually mounted one up originally before firing these. The styling of the johnson just fit much better with this boat. The Evinrude has more of a 1960s look to it.
Fuel consumption seems to be a big issue 😅
Ya we should talk. I have some stuff for this motor and a lot of props lol. Fat fifties are far from my favorite and got rid of most of them years ago. But you can see one on a boat i am selling. Its a 59 fat fifty. These motors need to be in water to run them. I am shocked you got muffs to work at all. But i have to say thats a very clean motor and should run out good. You can run them 50 to 1 on oil too its fine and you wont foul plugs. They had a big problem with that. They suck fuel like there is no tomorrow too. Omc finally improved fuel economy some in 1961 with a new reed valve design but fat 4s are fat 4s. I have several . Mercs are way more efficient plus lighter and faster too.
Nice! Yeah, I picked these up from a guy about 3 or 4 hours away. He had a few fat fifties and was getting rid of all of them. I snagged the Johnsons. Super clean original motors, was hard to beat them at the price. I have a couple of 1958 Evinrude Starflites as well. Picked up one of them for $150 with a Ride Guide steering system and electrics 😁
It seems the consensus is that muffs don't work well on them. Must be a bit different, as I've had muffs work great on the older OMC engines (such as the 35 HP ones). I'll probably still do a water pump on it just to be safe, may do it while I swap the cleaner lower unit from the other motor I have over to it.
I've also heard that the fuel consumption is going to blow my mind. So far, I'm planning on running twin 6 gallon cans.
Yeah, these motors are cool but compared to other motors at the time, I think I would have probably taken a *gasp* "Dock Buster" Mercury over a fat fifty. Or, just opted for the 35 HP Super Seahorse lol.
Had a Starflite 100 Evinrude..true styling genius! n
Nice!!! Yeah, they really were beautiful motors during their time.
I also really like the Johnson Meteor version of the motor you had also! Super cool.
I just ended up with a starflite III
New to me. Will see how it goes. Gonna need a generator.
I hope we could talk someday.
@@belowfray5251 I ended up cannibalizing several motors for a starter and coil, and bolted on a Force steering tube to upgrade to cable steering, also never had reverse because whoever put the lower unit together last pinched the wire on the reverse shift solenoid. We called it Frankenmotor and it pushed my 14 foot Riviera bowrider to over 55 mph lol
Dude my GoPro Media Mod went to **** too! And the latch broke, so it won't stay on. It sucks becuse I really liked having a better mic built into it. I'd love to have a better camera with mic for what I do, but unless it's a go pro I'm pretty sure I would trash it quickly. Great editing on this one, FASSSSTTTT cuts! Cheers!
LOL, another GoPro media mod / product failure?! I'm shocked! 😂
What really upset me about it wasn't that it just broke, but that it fooled us out for a bit by allowing the Go Pro's on board microphone to pass through audio instead (so the "check check" wasn't caught on the quick camera review). Audio quality is really important to me, especially when capturing engine noise. That's what actually got me to start messing around with mics originally. So for that to happen when we were doing a running video sucked.
I honestly was never really impressed with the media mod's built in microphone sound after I tried some other external mics. It's much better than the built in mic though obviously, and it's easy to use. Once I started finding other mics to use though and also got a Rode wireless setup, I pretty much just used it for the USB port and cold shoe attachments on the side and top. After it fried, I started using the Go Pro USB micrphone adaptor and hanging it off the camera. (I did replace the media mod eventually, just to have a backup to my USB adapter).
I also ended up buying two Small Rig cages for the Go Pros after the media mod failure, and I honestly like them better. One aluminum, and one plastic. The plastic one has a holder for the USB mic adapter. Both are nicer than the media mod for cold shoe use because they allow the battery door to be opened without removing the GoPro from its attachment (which drove me nuts with the media mod).
None of the action cameras have stellar mics on board, but if/when I upgrade I'm going to either DJI or Insta 360 (already have an X3, so it'd either be their Ace or Go model). My brother has both DJI Cameras and Insta 360's after initially starting with Go Pro Hero's and having the same issues. He likes the DJI's alot because they work seamlessly with their wireless mic setup (which he also has) and uses the Insta 360 Go by clipping it on the bill of his hat when he's around people (since it's not as noticeable). The Go 2 actually produces decent enough audio that he doesn't use his wireless setup as much anymore. And, of course, according to his Feedback, both of those cameras work, all the time....no freezing up, overheating, breaking, or losing footage.
Thanks on the compliments for the editing, it took a bit! The video we just put out today took an insane amount of editing time on both of our parts, I'm currently exhausted😅. Gotta make those cuts faster and faster with attention spans these days! 👍 Cheers!
-Brock
@@retro_grade Yeah I think I'm just too lazy to do a seperate audio thing.... then try to sync it... meh. But yeah, changing the batteries on the media mod was sooooooo dumb. Link to the cages? I should probably just get an external mic and cage like you are doing....
@@ADDvanced the two cages that I bought are below. I think I saved a few bucks off of the price at the time due to an Amazon day or something of that nature. The aluminum one is a really solid feeling unit and I love it, but doesn't have the Go Pro USB mic adapter holder to use underneath of it like the plastic one does. So, I bought both of them to try and have been happy with both.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0978Z9S5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08XVD7S2X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I always feed the external microphone directly into one of the cameras (typically the GoPro) and only have to sync them if I'm shooting with several cameras at once. Lately, that's been in every video so I guess I'm syncing lol. But, it really isn't too big of a deal and then once everything is synced up, it's easy to break up the views and cut them up.
I got carried away in early times of starting RUclips and blew alot of money (in many cases unnecessarily) on stuff. I've also tried alot of different micrphones, many of which now just sit. In all that I messed with, the one microphone that does everything well and I pretty much have been resorting to for everything now is the Sony ECM-LV1, which costs around 30 bucks and continues to sound better in all environments (to me, at least) than many other more expensive microphones that I've tried. It's nuts....they just seem to work well for everything (talking, voiceover, engine noise, capturing background noise), with little fuss or tweaking, and they're fairly cheap.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJQXJRM?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder_k0_1_7&=&crid=3PCRJ3PGS8JHZ&=&sprefix=ecm-lv1
I purchased a custom flay boat with a 40hp Johnson VRO got great service from it freshwater saltwater and rabbit hunting in the Louisiana marshes
Nice!!!
Thankyou 😊
@@robertlemoine3500 sure thing!
Outboard engines from that time were fuel guzzlers. The latest generation uses only 1/3 of the fuel.
Makes me think of my youth an afternoon sailing around with my father in a big speedboat 200 liters of gasoline was used.
They certainly were, with the V4s like this one being the worst offenders. I don't think that the 35 HP engines were that awful, seems like I could go boating for a full day on a 6 gallon can of fuel, maybe two cans. The speedboat you were in maybe had a couple of big Mercury engines on it?
But, they are certainly more fun to run that new ones. I absolutely love every aspect of them.
I’m sure your dog and the kids will love the oil soaked toys next time they go to play with them 😂
The bucket broke as well after dumping it out......my wife asked me how it happened and I just blamed it on "kids".
Get a manual and a water pump rebuild kit (they are available) and change it out, chances are the impeller is hardened into the position it sat in for the last few decades, you should get a better spray of water out of the exhaust. clean the carbs and lubricate all the moving linkages with lithium grease. Change the gear oil in the lower unit and put it on the boat.
Oh, I've got a manual if needed and have done several water pumps. I'm sure it'll get changed out before it hits the water, maybe even lower unit seals while it's off. It's possible the last guy who owned it changed it out, as he's an outboard enthusiast...but even then, that's like 6 or 7 years. And they're so easy on the larger motors typically because of the split design shift shaft which can be disconnected at the side (versus the smaller ones that require power head removal). I guess I'm not sure why we made such a deal of it pumping water....other than primarily to make sure we could continue running it for a couple minutes on the stand.
I thought the spray was pretty weak, but I've also run very few older engines that have thermostats on them. On the OMC stuff, I've oddly enough seen very few impellers that are rotted, broken, failed....it's typically as you said, with the vanes pre-set into position, worn, and creating a weaker stream. Seems fine until you throw a new one in and then it's evident.
We'll probably throw an impeller in it, change the lower unit oil out, throw it on the boat, and try it before doing much else (points adjustment, carb service, etc). We're pretty sure we'll end up keeping it on there but it is a large motor so there is a VERY slight possibilty we may switch to a 35 instead.
You won't see much of a spray coming from that exhaust relief, just a little watery mist when the thermostat opens. Probably gonna need the carb cleaned, don't forget to check/change the gear lube
Yeah, I've seen some tell me also there should be more. But, they may also be basing that on engines that don't have a thermostat. Either way, we'll likely change the impeller out to be safe. It may need carb service, we'll see. We may likely try it out first on the water to see how it runs.
Gear lube definitely.
@@retro_grade Well, you are surely not getting the same amount of water supply from the hose you would get from being submerged in water. In either case, you won't see much water discharge from the exhaust relief hole, except some mist spray when the thermostat opens, which we did see in your video. Unfortunately, there were no water pump indicator sprays on these older engines. Seeing a constant flow of water from the exhaust relief at idle usually means the thermostat is bad or has been removed. Don't know if your engine has a "hot light", but check its operation if it is equipped with this feature.
These work much better in a drum of water, with muffs most of the water just runs out the lower water intake (as can be seen in video). I've tried using muffs & even fabricated a hose adapter for the lower intake, but they just won't pump like they will with both intakes submerged.
That seems to be the consensus. I've had the older motors without thermostats work just fine with muffs, oddly enough....even better than old school Tempo adaptor that fits over the intake tube (looks like a taco shell).
Ooh man, the boat my family had when I was a kid (and I owned up until like 2 years ago) had that exact engine originally (it was later swapped out for a 1962 75 hp).
I had always wanted to get one and use it on the boat. But alas, the boat is now someone elses problem...
Wow, what made you get rid of that boat?? They're so gorgeous and aren't too many around! I'm also not sure I could ever get rid of a boat I've had that long (check out the two Alumacraft Queen Merrie videos where I bring the family boat home :) ).
It's good to know of another example of a boat setup with this large/heavy motor installed as well! Thanks for sharing!!!
@@retro_grade it was a 57 glasspar that I hadn't done anything to for 17 years, and it was becoming a burden.
@@This.Here.Channel that happens, especially with a fiberglass one! My family just scrapped an old Mark Twain this season that had finally reached its last season and wasn't worth fixing anymore.
My dad had a 62 Johnson 10hp ran great we had a 14 ft aluminum v bottom the moved up to a 64 28 hp ran great for years until it started having problems and my dad got rid of it then a 74 25 never used it
Ha! Why'd he never use the 74 model? I have a couple 1974 Johnson 50 HP engines
Been there picking up motors
Well, in all fairness, while the "$400 motor" portion of the title was defintely added so that RUclips would actually promote it to more than 100 people (missing accomplished there), this was definitely not a motor that we picked up off the street because it was a "good deal" and we couldn't afford anything else.
This was the EXACT motor that we wanted to re-motor this boat with, and one of us drove nearly 4 hours one evening to pick it up, along with another one exactly like it. They're becoming fairly rare, and it's the first one either of us have seen in person.
Now, personally....we would have titled the video "BEAUTIFUL 1958 Johnson Super Seahorse Fat Fifty First Start". But, we've unfortunately had to start wising up on our thumbnails and titles to make them more reachable to the "general public" :)
Need an engine hoist with an eyehook. Piece of cake. Also, is it better to have a new motor? Well, I don't know how much you paid for this, but it is clearly a very low hour motor; if you ensure the lower unit gears, bearings and shifter dog are in good shape, install a seal kit (because it WILL leak after 66 years) and replace all the electronics with OMC original replacements, put a new belt on, rebuild the intake/carb, and do something about the wiring harness (they are NOT available), the $6000 or so you'll save over a new 50 hp engine will buy a a few thousand gallons of gas. I think the better deal is to find a 35 hp of the same vintage/quality and use that. It's way better on gas if that matters, and it is far lighter. Still a very cool motor. Another Fat Fifty lives on!
See, the thing about an engine hoist is it's always one of those things that you don't want to store, and when you need to borrow one you either can't find one or don't want to go get it / haul it back either. In the spot that an engine hoist could go, I could store a few more non-running outboards that I don't need 😂. You'll get to see the ridiculousness of how we manage to get it on without one at some point.
She should be fine to try with water pump replacement and gear oil change to try. If the shift dogs are worn out, that'll be evident pretty quick once it's in gear and under power. Going completely through it to make it perfect isn't going to happen until we decide that we don't want to swap it out to a 35 HP engine, as you mentioned. That's really the other option.
Getting a new motor for an old boat is NEVER the option that anyone should go with. Ruins the entire look and experience of owning and operating a beautiful classic like this one.
You better bring 3 6gal gas tanks
You will need it
That's good to know 🤣
The guy I bought them from told me that at wide open, it could burn through a can in a half an hour....
I had the 1962 forty. It pushed a a lot more water than that.
That's good to know. Sounds like it may be a good idea to swap out the impeller!
The old engines like that run better in a drum have to have positive water pressure nice old 2 stroke
They'll do good in a drum when completely submerged. Ours just wasn't large enough. I have seen them pump fairly strong as well when hooked to a hose, but I'm also used to motors without a thermostat.
The biggest different is that motors don't run the same on muffs / hose hookup as they do when actually submerged, with the exhaust under water. Which is why we didn't bother tuning on the carburetor or anyting else once it ran, as it's fairly pointless. If we don't get a barrel large enough we'll save that activity for the lake.
I believe the water intake is on the back of the exhaust outlet below the cavitation plate.
The main one is, but water also comes in through the side as well. It was pulling in water fine using the earmuffs (probably could use a new water pump at minimum though).
I have an old Perko adapter that fits over the tube you're referring to, and oddly enough it doesn't work that great....the ear muffs or adapters that fit on the side of the motor work better.
Also, even if that tube is under the water (which this one was), it won't necessarily pump. The pump inside needs to be submerged completely.
Running the engines in buckets/barrels is mainly more due to have correct jetting and hearing how they sound. Engines run on muffs don't run quite how they will when actually sitting in the water.
@@retro_grade can’t wait to see this project finished. I think you’re located close to me. There aren’t enough classic boats here.
@@frogcassady same here! Everything goes slow when you have too many project though, LOL.
What area are you located in? Yeah....Kentucky, and much of the south in general, is DRY of classic boats and motors. It's really sad....
@@retro_grade Cincinnati area. Grew up boating in Maine and still do a lot of boating up there. Classic boat heaven.
The fuel oil mix for this motor is 24 to 1. I have one just like yours.
Yeah, I wondered on that one.
I always default to 16:1 when testing, as many of smaller Johnsons of this era with solid bronze bushings require it. So my pressure cans are always 16:1, and I simply transferred a bit of that fuel into the single line can.
Great but nothing beats my Yamaha four stroke quiet and uses no gas
I agree, and not having to worry about mixing gas too! Although, I do love a good smell of two stroke smoke from time to time.
@WilcoxGarageRecovery If you can't handle mixing gas, you can't handle boating!!! Probably a pontoon boat owner......
Anyone can run into a boat shop and buy a bland, boring, plastic covered new engine. Not everyone has the skill and class to run the oldies! - Official Retro_Grade Response
The reasons that you mention here are the EXACT reasons that I choose to run old outboards (fuel consumption I'll give to you, I guess.....on the larger engines is likely better, I could care less on the smaller ones).
Sure, if you're out fishing, for instance, fine - yeah, a 4-stroke is nice. Starts right up (at least when they're new....give them some years and see how that pans out), runs quiet.
But, if I'm out boating, I hate them.....there's no sound, no smell, nothing. They're boring, they have no soul. They look cheap, bloated, and hideous. Why anyone would mount one on an old boat is beyond me. Any time I see a beatiful hull like this and my eyes follow the lines, once they reach a new motor on the back I either vomit, cry, or both....then promptly walk away in disgust.
I've had a couple of newer 4 cycle motors I've purchased in my life when I lost my way as a classic boat/motor enthusiast, and I was instantly reminded why I hate them so much the moment I took them out on the water. Sold each one a week after purchase/use, every time....and it real restraint on my part to not just unscrew the transom clamps and drop them overboard 😂
-Brock
The absolute worst thing you can do to an outboard is start it without the water on.😮
Our Camera Man #2 / Technician was supposed to turn the water back on once we started cranking again hard and got the engine to fire. They did not perform to task, and have since been terminated from the company.
A trash can might work if you fill it with water.
@romanlahage5144 yeah it probably would. Getting it out from under the motor when full though is the pain.
I normally use cheap dry bags and fill with water that work great. But the lower unit is too wide on that motor to fit into one.
Seems like all youtubers have trouble with the gopros. Is there no other options for camera's out there? Just found your channel and love the old boats !!!
@scottporter6201 there are, but the problem is that you don't know any better initially and get too far invested to go back. GoPro has that name, but they're slowly losing it the last couple of years.
DJI or Insta 360 is the way to go and will be what we use next.
But with the channels staggeringly slow growth, I'm reluctant to drop another dime into it for quite some time.
It'll be years before I make up the several grand that I'm already in the hole on 😅
these motors dont like muffs fyi
Which models, and in what way? The older twin cylinders seem to do fine with them, if needed (versus running them in my "test sock"). At least in terms of how much water comes out of the exhaust comparatively.
I have a vintage Tempo flush adaptor that fits over the main intake tube near the exhaust (which I figured would work better than muffs), but oddly enough it doesn't. I spent a long time trying to find one as well, as they're fairly rare and was pretty disappointed when I tried it. Looks like a taco shell with a hose adaptor on it.
Do they run the same? Absolutely not. Which is why I don't bother tuning on them until the exhaust is submerged.
@@retro_grade all i know is they need the impeller to be fully submarged to push water as they are not tight fitting (not self priming) and sometimes the muffs dont provide enough pressure.
Get a bigger bucket.
@scottporter6201 oddly enough, I don't have a big barrel to run in. I got so sick of storing one and dumping it out every time.
For smaller motors, I actually use a cheap Walmart dry bag, pull it up around the lower unit and tie to the motor, and fill it with water. When I'm done, push in on the clip and let it drop. It works great.
However, the larger motors won't even fit in the larger 20l ones, too wide. At some point I'd like to custom stitch one up.
And most times with the larger engines if I get them started on muffs, I just take the boat to the lake anyways :)
Thanks for the comments!