Fitting Pants: The Seat Adjustment
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- Опубликовано: 25 сен 2018
- Today’s video is a continuation of the Fitting Pants video series. This is the third video in the series so if you missed the first two, follow the link below to catch up.
This week we’re going to look a little closer at the rear view of our pants and discuss the full and flat seat fitting issues. These are what I like to call companion fit issues because the solutions to each of these are essentially the exact opposite of each other. While one will require and increase in the pattern dimensions, the other will require a decrease, but both use the same alteration lines in the pattern adjustment technique.
Watch now as I go over how you’ll know if you need a full seat adjustment, how to assess the volume you need to add and the pattern adjustments that will correct for that fit issue. I’ll discuss the flat seat adjustment in relation to this one as we go along.
You'll find all the resources mentioned in this video here: www.inhousepatternsstudio.com... 
Хобби
You've taken the mystery out of fitting pants. I just finished my first pair of jeans. They look great on me. I now have a muslin that can sew my own jeans to my heart's content and I know that every pair will fit great. NO MORE OFF THE RACK PANTS! Thank you Alexandra.
You’re an excellent teacher. Clear and easier to understand. Congratulations.
You are a super star! Thank you for this video series. I am linking your videos in my sewing school, as this is the best instruction I have seen anywhere. Hope you get lots of views, you totally deserve it. What wonderful teaching style you have.
Frocks & Frolics Sewing Patterns thank you! I appreciate that so much!
OMG..Thank you. Clear and straight to the point instructions. Saved to my favorites.
You helped me with to increase rear adjustment correctly. Had no idea that I needed 3 more openings for gaping waist line and increase back rise. Thank you & I subscribed 👍🏽👍🏽
These video's are excellent! Thank you for adding them! 👍👍👍👍
This makes so much sense. Very helpful!
Very helpful and clear instructions. Thank You!!
Extremely well explained! Thank you.
Great tutorial, keep up the good work. very informative!
Thank you so much. I don't have pattern making experience but am looking at some samples and need to give feedback to adjust. This is really helpful in making me understand the changes that need to be made. You're a lifesaver!!
Thank you. In a recent sewing class, I was advised to "scoop out" the line for the back crotch a bit more on my muslin/toile ... also referred to as a flat/low seat adjustment. When I asked, the explanation was that it would both draw in the material but also make the crotch line longer. I _almost_ get it after seeing your alterations as well. Looking forward to your other vids in this series.
This was absolutely helpful. Thank you
Thank you for such clear instructions. I will be able to fit my mom with comfortable and adjusted pants.
Wow, this is such a good explanation!
Thank you for these excellent lessons.
This was very helpful. Thank yoiu so much for sharing this!
Thanx, tour instructions are very clear and understanable
Just what I needed. Thank U
Thanks for this great video!
thank you so much for your tutorial.
Great video. Thanks
muito feliz em achar seus videos ,são muito esclarecedor obrigada .
Alexandra, love your fit videos. Will you do more of them?
Finally got to solve my worst problem thank you 🙏
Very helpful video! Are there any other special adjustments needed when dealing with a full seat, but a tiny waist?
Why dont they have a "WOW LOVE IT" button... like doesnt always do it justice. After 20 solid years doing historical dressmaking, modern is hard for me, and its been hard to know what im missing in my understanding...and you are filling in SO MANY gaps for me in fit for modern clothes. thankyou~!
Thanks!!!
This is very helpful! I was just wondering if the outside of the pattern is the seam or the seam allowance. Depending on which it is, it could make the proportions slightly different.
Very interesting thank you. I wonder though if the adjustments are widening or narrowing the darts, wouldn't you have to re draw the dart lines as well?
I love your videos. Is it possible to need both a full tummy adjustment and full seat adjustment in a pattern? If so, are the tell signs the same in the fabric when looking at fit?
Great tutorial!
I keep having gaping pockets. How do I correct this?
Good evening, thank you so much for this video. I attempted this adjustment on a full scale pattern and I have a few questions. How do you know how far to go in on the crotch curve adjustment? Does it matter if I am using a pattern that has 1" seam allowances? I ask because my crotch curve seems distorted and I'm wondering if it is because of my placement choice?
What if you are using a waistband that to 1/2 fitted and 1/2 elastic. Where would the lines go if there is no dart? Thanks for the clear instructions.
I made a pair of pants with side seam pockets. The fit pulls the pockets open. Do I need tummy or bum adjustment? The back was fine it was the front that cut across by tummy from the pockets under my tummy. Thank you for your videos. Love them.
It's most likely a tummy adjustment, but it depends on how the drag lines are presenting. Sometimes a little extra girth added at the side seams is all you need.
How can i get in touch with you
I would love to learn more from you. Do you give classes on pattern and pattetn fitting
This is really helpful!!! I found I need to adjust the back rise 1.75" to match my back rise measurement(I'm making non-stretch jeans and heard I don't need ease in the crotch rise..) I'm unsure if I should split this measurement in half or do less on the crotch hook, say .5" then make a 1.25" increase on the upper crotch rise. I'm assuming this is correct but wondering if anyone has found this to be true. Most of the info I have come across only do up to 1" adjustments and I'm making a bigger adjustment then normal. One thing I've heard across the board is to make the crotch hook adjustments not as big as you could do on the upper rise...most likely trying this out and see how it goes! 😅
Thank for again another very clear step-by-step explaination of how to do it. I think this one adresses my main fitting issue. One question: could I start with one size smaller than my low hip measurement suggests? That would fit better overal and than use this adjustment to accommodate my fuller seat. Or should I still start with the size that fit my largest circumference, i.e. the low hip? (Tried that ad needed to take in so much towards that waist that the pattern got distorted.)
Hi Lily, I always prefer to fit from a garment that fits slightly larger because determining how much to add is more difficult than determining how much to remove. It's easier to pin out excess than to slash/open or release seams in a sample. Pattern distortion results when you remove too much volume from one area of the garment. It's best to split the amount into several areas like adding a second dart or increasing the volume if there is already two, and removing just a little from the side seams.
Alexandra Morgan Thank you for your reply. Understand what you mean. Will stick with the larger size and try spreading the excess as you suggest. Again thank you for your help! Fitting pants are desperately missing from my autumn-winter wardrobe.
I’ve tried the slash and spread on the back above the crotch but I have to add a lot and then it throws the grain off and looks wonky. I find that if I extend the back crotch point out at least 3 or 4 inches i can get a nice fit and it comes up high enough in the back. But then I find the leg width is huge! I’ve tried tapering it in but can’t get it to match up nicely with the pants front. I’ve tried your HBL lines but again I find I need those crotch points extended out a lot! I’m so frustrated! Any suggestions?
My daughter needs tummy and bottom adjustment, so can I use these methods for both areas
What if you have a baggy leg just below the butt? How do you fix that? Thanks
Tall person her, I have a medium waist, and tall length, but, though I'm slim, I still have more on a side than a 'medium' person, and saddle space tends to be what people forget when adjusting pants to be 'tall' fitting, but, so do many videos and topics for 'large or unusual' bodies have needs totally unlike my own.
Have any advice for us tall, medium, 'Big and Thin' types? Ideally anything size 'tall' would account for it, but, I fear it's a fraction of that already fractional group who know to account for a whole body and not just a few of the key measurement differences.
What about a back crotch adjustment on a jumpsuit? I have a great fit bit the back goes up my butt a little. Everything else is fine.
I did a full seat adjustment. The HBL lines on the sides and front look fine but my HBL lines in the center back form a V. I undid the leg inseam and crotch and pulled it up to try to get the HBL lines level but the center back in seam goes up my butt and the crotch length is too long. I tried scooping too but it didn't help. What am I doing wrong?
HI! Take a look at this video to see if it helps: www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/blog/fitting-pants-the-crotch-curve
I can’t find the scale block pattern. You said it’s free
www.inhousepatternsstudio.com/scaled-pant-block
What do we do if all our vertical lines are parallel with the floor and the rise reaches where it is supposed to in the back/front, yet the back crotch gives a constant wedgie look
This is most likely a too shallow front crotch curve. Scoop out the curve.
Muy interesante todo pero me gustaría en español🇲🇽😔
Turkce ankatim yok galiba aboneligi birakiyorum
I keep wondering: Why is the crotch depth line on the back pattern is not lined up with the point of the crotch seam like it is on the front pattern?
I am so sorry it took until I am an old lady to learn about pattern drafting! Thank you Alexandra and RUclips!