Wrinkles in Well Fitting Pants??? + TDCO Tips
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- Опубликовано: 2 авг 2024
- This week on Fit Tip Tuesday I'm going to review the #topdowncenterout pants fitting method based on my recent classroom experiences. I had two classes the last two weekends and they were so much fun! I have some tips to share with you if you're trying to learn how to use this method. These tips are inspired by what happened in class with my students (who did an amazing job!!). I'm also going to show you the new pants pattern I'm working on and illustrate how there can be wrinkles on your pants, even if you fit them well! It's going to be a jam packed tutorial! ...Next week I'm going to show you how I would work with a Jeans Pattern using Top Down Center Out... (Tested during my Jean Fit Workshop in Jacksonville last month!)
00:00 intro
03:40 The Benefits of a Separate Fitting Waistband during TDCO
07:32 Tips for learning the process of Top Down Center Out Pants Fitting
10:25 Details about my new Pants Pattern coming soon!
11:43 Photo of me in my one-leg muslin and a crotch shape discussion
14:05 Photos of my Happy Pants Muslin compared to my new pants pattern
15:06 How a marked the fit changes on my one-leg muslin
21:13 Learn the TDCO method by spending quality time in front of the mirror
24:55 Photo Slide Show of how pants move on your body when you move
26:33 Make the style pants you like and Make pants that are comfortable!
28:13 Next week on Fit Tip Tuesday and outro
For more info check Threads issue 218 Practical Pants Fitting by Ruth Collins
If you would like to stay in touch, sign up below for my monthly newsletter. As a special gift for joining, you will receive a free PDF pack of mini pattern pieces so you can practice along with me on my weekly RUclips series, Fit Tip Tuesday! bit.ly/3LAchsY
Playlist for Pants Fitting and TDCO: • Never Scoop the Crotch...
Peppermint Magazine Wide Leg Pants Pattern: peppermintmag.com/sewing-scho...
For more info on TDCO check Threads issue 218 Practical Pants Fitting by Ruth Collins
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So good to see you move around in your “perfect” pants 😊 Without wrinkles we couldn’t do anything! Thanks for all these TDCO videos. I am less stressed about fitting pants now and am ready to start the process. Got a second mirror and have my muslin ready to sew. Your advice about spending time with the process is so right.
I'm so excited that you're working with this method... and spending a little time with it~
Really good idea to use the Velcro!
I'm guilty of watching all your great videos and trying to absorb the information but then not actually doing the work. You're right, I need to practice the techniques, and just do it.
I love it that you watch my videos to learn the process... When you're ready, give it a go ... Then take your time! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m in the same camp.😁 Getting a long time to actually try this method. To my defense I hade several (and still have) things I have to alter and until I am done with that I can’t get myself to start a new project i.e. pant.
Thank you so much for all the tips. I appreciate you.
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
My goodness! I’m still gushing over how much easier and intuitive the TDCO method is. I’ve been thinking about why we haven’t done it this way from the beginning, and I’m beginning to think that pant-fitting has always been presented from the point of view of a pattern drafter, which is a logical evolution, but, as it turns out, not the best way or necessary if you are starting with a well-drafted pattern. With this method and the help of your videos and insight, I am happily making pants again!
:) Yessssss, I have had the same experience while working with wide leg pants. The fabric doesn't catch on your leg, so you can use TDCO 100% to fit your pants. I have been asking myself why I never considered adding to the top and side edges to add real estate to balance the leg. Since I started experimenting with this method I've worked with over 100 women of all shapes and sizes ...what I''m finding is that the snugger the leg gets, the more skill it takes to fit the muslin & I'm sure that if you keep at it you may be able to achieve the fit you're looking for. But, I'm also finding that combining balancing the leg top down with traditional pants fitting adjustments may be easier for some students. I will be exploring this in coming months! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks so much for doing these. Looking forward to your video on using this method for jeans with a yoke.
My Pleasure! ...and thank you for fitting along with me
Thanks. I so enjoy your videos.
Glad you like them! Thank you for fitting along with me
OMG. After learning dressmaking in highschool in 80's, and spending 20 years in historical costuming and fitting everything - except pants - these videos have blown my life away! Self fitting is SO hard, and i have recently lost my fitting friends - so the waistband with velcro - that is game changing.. Thankyou SO much. Finding out youre as tall as me too - has made me trust you 10000% more! Im gonna nail this.
:) I'm so happy to hear!! I started a new mini series, "Pants Fitting Trouble Shooting... Here's the link to Part 1. ...I'm doing this videos as a student resource if someone needs a more detailed explanation :) ruclips.net/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/видео.html
OMG -- Brilliant! Thank you!
You're welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!
It would be great if someone, You 😉, would put together a TDCO kit to purchase containing fabric, stabilizer, velcro to make the waistband and 1 leg. For the new sewist like myself it would be so helpful to have the proper materials and see what is the best things to use for these fittings.
That's a great idea! Adding to my "To Do" list!
Amazing, I love your videos
I'm so happy to hear! Thank you for fitting along with me
Amazing! Thanks for these! I find the tdco info to be a bit scattered but you've done a great job at pulling it all together. Looking forward to next week! I want to attempt a pair of jeans.
:) Yay, I'm so happy to hear! I'm excited about sharing my jeans TDCO process too!
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours!
Same to you! ...and thank you for watching
Thank you!!!!
My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video. 😊
Thanks so much, and thank you for fitting along with me
I recently discovered your channel and what you said at @26:33 really resonated with me, especially since this past week I've made around 6 pairs of muslin pants to try and perfect my fit down, and even though I made a final pair of pants I'm still not super happy with it>.< They look alright when standing, but are tight around the thighs when sitting. Fitted pretty well with muslin, but not as much with the actual fabric. Made some hasty decisions here and there and altered the pattern again while I was sewing!! It feels like it never stops... so what you said is really encouraging!
Love your content so far and all the great advice, will apply it next time Im up for the pants challenge again @.@
I understand the struggle... I can't count the times I made hasty decisions during a fitting process! So happy you're following along with me & keep me posted if you need help when you give it another go!
Another super helpful video! Thank you!
What fabric do you use for your toiles? I usually use bedsheets but I worry that for pants it will not turn out right because of the different weight of the fabric.
Thanks so much.... Fabric does affect the fit of your pants pattern. I try to use a pants weight woven non stretch fabric... But sometimes I'll use a sheet or muslin for my first past at fitting, then test the two leg version in pants fabric. Hope this helps & Thanks for fitting along with me
Wow, thanks for a great video. Can I please ask if you stitch Velcro into all the muslins as you describe? What a great tip. Do you have any videos actually showing how you fit the leg from the minute you put it on? Thanks again
Thanks so much. I haven't done a video showing the fitting process (mostly because I would have to revamp my entire studio to make room for a wide angle video to capture all of me). You can check out the process @thecrookedhem Stacy has a lot of great tips and info about TDCO. Here's the link to her fitting video :) Thanks for fitting along with me! ruclips.net/video/yhi6qk0Wrqs/видео.html
Thanks to Ruth Collins AKA Ithacamaven for inventing TDCO and make it freely available!
I Agree! …also here’s my TDCO playlist of free tutorials. ruclips.net/p/PLseQVksFDkNsN64DwwVI5Phfgbuzn07zK
Thank you for all of your videos. I’m going to try the TDCO method with the peppermint pants. The pattern has a curved waist band but could I make it with a straight waistband or would this change the intention of the design?
I have both straight and contoured fitting waistbands ...I've used them interchangeably with good results... I think as long as you use the same waistband style to fit and for your finished waistband on your final pants. Love the Peppermint pants too!
Hi Jennifer, you have made an amazing series and it really explains the method in a very accessible way. I am wondering what to do if the crotch length is too deep. If you pull the pants up at the waistline, you will have to readjust the side seam shape. If you fold out the excess length above the hip to bring the crotch where you want it you preserve the intended shape of the side seam. I don't think that is how TDCO approaches it but it makes sense to me. I'm curious what your thoughts are. Thank you!
This is one of the reasons why I'm moving back to working on my Fitting process... there are times when I think it's easier to pick up the excess vertical length where you need to... For example at the full hip to pick up the crotch curve. I think it's worth trying to pick it up at the waistline first... but if you can't get good results doing that, here's a tutorial showing how to pick up vertical length at the full hip... plus some of my thoughts about that! ruclips.net/video/LyIQ0w6S9mY/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you, this is my inclination too. I’ll check out the video.
VERY informative ! You have put TDCO all together + . I’m going to get sewing up my waistband using your Velcro method. You are a good instructor. Thanks!
I tried the TDCO method my first time and it was helpful in some ways but I wasn’t real successful but will try again somewhere down the road. I have a question. When I match up my front & back legs they match up good in crotch, waist & length. However if I try to add side pockets the front leg length is 6/8-7/8 shorter than the back leg? All I do is sew the pocket pieces to front & back at the waistline with 3/8 inch seam on the side. I don’t even sew legs together but when I put the legs together to sew front leg is shorter. Are you talking about Jacksonville Fla. Where you did your classes.
:) If your side seams matched before you made the pocket the pocket pieces may have caused the front to be shorter. If you're making a pocket with a facing and a pocket bag, the pocket bag may not have been shaped correctly along the waistline to finish the side seam Hope that helps!. ...and Yes, I was taking about Jacksonville Florida... I had such a nice time with the Jacksonville ASG (American Sewing Guild). Going forward, I am going to be teaching pants fitting classes that are a fusion between working with a single leg muslin with a separate waistband and some traditional pants fitting adjustments. I've found that the more narrow the leg gets, the more skill it takes to get the fit you're looking for... So, I've been experimenting with some things that make it easier!
I am wondering if I can just take a worn out pair of favorite pants, remove the waistband, part them down the middle and re-fit one leg onto the waistband. The second leg could be harvested for fabric extensions… My post-surgery shape doesn’t conform to pattern waist to hip ratios but I have ready-made pants that do well enough to cover my nakedness but could certainly fit better.
You could try that, but keep in mind that well worn pants are not reliable to fit with because the "worn" fabric may not be stable enough to hold it's shape. So after you fit the leg, when you cut it out the new fabric without worn areas will fit differently. You might have to do some more fitting once you get it into new fabric! Keep me posted if you decide to try it, I'm interested to see how it works out
Where can I buy the peppermint pants pattern you mentioned? Donna
:) I put a link to this free PDF pattern in the video description, but here it is again... Definitely give it a try, it's a really nice pattern!
Peppermint Magazine Wide Leg Pants Pattern: peppermintmag.com/sewing-scho...
Good advice. Be objective when accessing the fit and don't take it personally.
Yes!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Jennifer l am not ready to work on pants yet, but l have a question. I have one hip higher than the other. Would l have to make two legs to test.
Thanks
I have the same problem.
That's a great question. Depending on how different your hips are, I have found that adjusting the legs individually to accommodate the asymmetry ends up making it more noticeable. ...Sometimes it doesn't And, sometimes fitting the higher hip and using the same pattern for both legs works well. I think I would test fitting each leg... Then turn them inside out and see what they do on the opposite leg. That will give you the best answer! Hope this helps
@J Stern Designs That's great information. I no you say to use a straight or curved waistband, but if l make pants, l would like linen pants with an elastic waistband. Is that doable?
I am fascinated with this method. I will try it on my next pair of pants. Thank you so much for doing these videos. Are you ever going to do something like this in the Charlotte area?
Thank you. I am looking forward to using this method but me overthinking it was wondering if the muslim's inner leg seam would end up in the way when adjusting the crotch depth?
Using TDCO, adjusting the "crotch depth" is a matter of playing with the vertical position of the CF and CB waistline edge. Working with a single leg actually allows you to see what the base of the crotch curve is doing :) Try it, you'll like it!!
Hi madam. Can you advise how can i adjust on the pattern? With below pic? Tks!
Hello, I don't see any photos... if you're talking about the thumbnail photo on this video, those wrinkles were caused by the way I was standing. If you email me photos jsterndesigns37@gmail.com, I can offer suggestions. Thanks
@@JSternDesigns tks for your reply Madam, and if can you can help me to adjust pattern for some point s. I will sent inf for you by your mail via. Tks so much.
I have 2 pair of knit athletic pants, I like them but they’re sewn up with cover stitch machine , I can’t send you a picture bcoz I don’t know how ! Let me describe & maybe you can understand, the pants have bell bottom legs ( yuck ) they keep me warm but I feel cold air coming up my legs! I want to alter but it throws me off with cover stitch it has on the outside! Please either find a pair of pants that resembles what I’m talking about so you can make a video & teach me and others how to fix , please 🙏🏼
:) Thanks for taking the time to check in with me about your pants ...I think I can visualize how your pants look... but photos will help. You can send them to me via my email jsterndesigns37@gmail.com :) Then I can get my suggestions! Thanks for following along with me
So we'll said about wrinkles. You have made your trousers left home in the morning and they look good, not perfect. Spent your day sitting, walking, kneeling you have not felt them all day. You get home, they have grown a bit. Developed some wrinkles and that makes them perfect.
I love that!! and it's so true. Another thing I like to do is really watch how pants fit and move when I'm watching movies... Haven't seen a pair without wrinkles yet!!
You need to make something that's concisely and clearly content only, with no preamble or filler, because my attention span just won't span more than 10 minutes. 10 minutes!
:) sorry about that... This is my space to share my take on fitting, sewing & design free of charge. I try to keep things on topic ... I noticed that you are planning to start uploading videos any time now. I wish you good luck on launching your channel.
You are not a sewer, then. How long does it take to use a seam ripper to get tangled stitches out? Lots of corrections take way longer than 10 minutes! 😊. But if you have the time, the nerdy details are fun