Thank you so much, Jen! The tip of velcro is very useful and the idea that I have to avoid grading the pattern in the various locations of my body is very important (it wasn't clear at all for me before). Your explanation of this method is the most mastered I found. You are a great teacher, Jen. Thank you for let people take advantage from your precious value! 😍
Thank you so much for demonstrating this method! There's information all over but nothing as easy to follow as yours. BTW I had a mirror in hiding too and am now using it
Thank you for all the tips for the TDCO method! I follow the PR thread and have the Threads magazine with the TDCO article but would love to see you make a video showing us the half muslin on you or another person, and how you pull or move the fabric through the WB to get the correct fit and keep the horizontal balance lines. Maybe someone you know would be willing to don a leotard, so they won't be standing there in their underwear. Lol. Looking forward to seeing how the legs can be slimmed down as well. Like another comment below, I'm interested in comparing this method to my self-drafted pants. Interesting!
Thank you! This was so helpful. I made one leg yesterday but wanted to watch your video before fitting. You gave some great tips especially the velcro--brilliant idea!
Thanks so much for this very clear instruction. Love, love the Velcro tip. More importantly, though, I’ve been sewing 60 years and consider myself advanced in skill, but I never fully understood the workings of those darts😂! I’m making wide leg pants tonight and will utilize some of these tips.
Yay, Just make sure you don't put too many vertical velcro strips on the inside of the waistline edge. You need to be able to adjust and shift the waistline around! One strip on the front and back legs is enough... along with along the CB seam allowance. ... Think of them as "sticky pins" :)
I was so busy between the last 2 weeks of August and first 2 weeks of September that I missed it all, but I did meet my first Grandchild who lives 2000 miles away!!!! Ohhhhhh! I've got so much to catch up with, including watching this Aug 30th Review again. Boy am I tired. Thanks J. If I had more energy, I'd be as excited as you Sweetie! Great job, and thanks for being our Tester!
Congratulations on the new Grand Baby!! that's definitely more exciting than pants fitting :)))) Keep me posted if you have questions as you catch up (at your happy pace)
Unfortunately, I saw this video about 30 minutes after I cut my first muslin for the Threads pant fitting method. I will go back and add 4 " to the top of the pieces before starting the fitting. I love the velcro fitting method, which will be a big help.
I'm so sorry about that... (but I am giggling a little bit on the inside... because I did the same thing with my first try!) Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thanks for all the pointers. Loved the Velcro idea. I did try this with another wide leg pattern. I have a short rise in the front and it fit perfect there but I got it to small between my waist and hips. I must not have had the centers seams in the right place. We learn from mistakes. Ready to try it again. You are an excellent teacher!
Thank you so much for taking on this project and sharing your progressI I am so relieved to see it demonstrated and evaluated. I will definitely be following you as you continue… and I will definitely be trying it myself.
I'm most intrigued by this method. I read the article in Threads and your video explains the process very well. Question, if you don't blend between sizes, how will you eliminate fullness in the leg? Because that fullness was not part of the design. I'm guessing you address that with your half muslin? I would love to see an actual demo on how to transfer the adjustments to the flat pattern.
:) Blending between sizes should be used to get the fit right, not remove ease. A very important part of this method is to look at what the designer intended so you can see what you should expect when you make your muslin. These pants I'm working on have a wide leg. Changing the wide leg to a fitted leg will change the design of the pants... You can totally do that, but it may cause more fitting issues. If you'd like a more fitted leg, I think it's easier to find a pattern that's designed with a fitted leg. I will be sharing details and my experiences with a variety of pants patterns... Stay tuned!
I think the velcro idea is great. I have tried this using pins and I found it a bit awkward especially as my shoulder had an injury at the time and I had limited movement. Thank-you for this.
Hi from England. Thank you so much for this video. I have always had problems with pants, both rtw and memade as I have a flat bottom and therre is always too much fabric. This method of fitting from the waistband seems so obvious and I am looking forward to the next videos. It has given me encouragement to try trousers again.
I'm so happy you're fitting along with me. Keep me posted if you have questions! ...and if you would like some quality time (if your time zone works with my EDT time zone), I'm teaching a step-by-step pants fitting class that will include this method on November 12 & 13... 4-2 hour classes. We will go through the entire process of making a fitting waistband and work on a one leg muslin to fine tune the fit. Then we'll transfer all the changes to the pattern pieces and cut out the second leg. ...I think it's going to be the last pants fitting class you'll ever need! (class is limited to 10 students) jsterndesigns.com/product/top-down-center-out-pants-fitting-zoom-class/
Thank you for showing this. I only first came across this method a couple of days ago and I'm really intrigued by it. I do want to give it a go but I'm trying to absorb as much as I can first. Thank you for the time you take and effort you put into your videos. They are always so helpful and full of info :)
Thank you Jenn - you are so generous with your skill. I had read about this method but frankly couldn’t really grasp it until you gave us your insights!
Hi Jen, I am watching this again, ready to start my first TDCO attempt. Thanks for the extra info about the dart purpose, that is something I didn’t understand or know about. Your videos and Stacey’s from The Crooked Hem are so helpful!
Thanks for these amazing tips Jen! 🥰 the not grading the pattern tip was super helpful! 😅I have been working on a burda pant for the office and couldn’t figure out how to increase the waistband due to my menopause belly gain. 🥺. After making the pattern adjustments I did tissue fitting. It fit like a glove! Then I cut the first pair from a less expensive fabric similar to the more pricier fabric that I really need to check the fit. This way I end up with 2 pairs. 😃You’re amazing! 🤩Thanks for all the help🥰
I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. ..We'll be working with the Assembly Line High Waist Pleated Trousers. I think I'll have some nice samples to share from that class...Mine and my student's :) Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I love the velcro idea! Definitely something to try in my fittings. I've cut out a commercial pattern ready to go - I'm so interested to compare the results with my pretty-good self-drafted pants (but which still need a good scooping - ....or do they....?)
I'm going to do the same thing!! I'm going to fit my Happy Pants using this method to see what kind of results I get (compared to my fitted pair). Stay tuned!
Thanks so much, ...yes, you are creating a separate non-stretch fitting waistband & positioning that on yourself first. Then you drape a single leg muslin from it to fit the pattern :) Here's a link to a tutorial showing how to make the non-stretch waistband. ruclips.net/video/r_RSf5KD_MA/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video! It's so helpful to see how you used this approach and to get your great tips. As you know, I'm in the process of trying to fit my Happy Pants and struggling a bit with a couple different fit areas. Do you think it would help me to set aside my current Happy Pants muslin and try this method with your Happy Pants pattern? Or, should I try this method with a different pants pattern? I'm thinking about what you said at the end of the video about this method working well for you with loose, wide-leg pants, but that you will have to wait and see how it works with patterns with a more fitted leg. I'd love your advice on the next steps for my pants fitting. Thanks!
...Thanks! I'm going to test this method using the Happy Pants pattern... so when we get together the next time, I'll be ready to help you try it this way. I do think it may be easier to balance the front and back waistline/crotch. Then we can fine tune from there!
Thank you for all of your fitting advice. I have begun a journey with the TDCO method and your videos are so very helpful. Have you discovered pants patterns that you think are particularly good for TDCO?
Since this video, I've worked with TDCO extensively... with women of all shapes and sizes, in person and in zoom classes... What I've discovered is that TDCO works all by itself as a fitting method in two situations. 1. If you're working with a wide leg pants pattern like the high waisted wide leg pants from in the Folds and Peppermint Magazine, TDCO works great because you're essentially fitting a skirt... the crotch seam and leg fabric does not touch your body, so it's a really easy pattern to start with. inthefolds.com/wide-leg-pants-pattern 2. If you happen to pick out a pants pattern that is more fitted AND the shape of the crotch curve agrees with your body shape, it also works pretty well. I really tried (like an Olympic sport) to fit any pattern to any body... the more fitted the pattern, the less it worked without adding body specific adjustments into the mix. Here's a tutorial that explains why. ruclips.net/video/WflHfYM3jcs/видео.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
This was so interesting! I have been trying (not too successfully) to take out extra ease below my butt on a pair of Style Arc elastic waist pants for a while. Always interested in learning the ins and outs of fitting.
:) Check Part 2 of my Pants Fitting Trouble Shooting Series, I share how to remove excess ease on the back leg before cutting out the fit muslin! ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html
The pants I want to fit this way have a cut on waistband with a facing. I am trying to use the facing with the velcro at the top as that is where the pants will connect. If this doesn't work, I will try a simpler pattern for my first try. Even as I type this, I know that is what I should be doing! Oh, well--only time and fabric!
Hi Jen, Thank you so much for this video, so happy to finally understand it. Im wondering if you have a video or something that I could be refer to I just has a colostomy done from of my stomack and would love to make pants (not wirh elastic waist band) but to change the pattern front zip to side zip would really help me. Thank for reading and great content. Xoxo
Thanks! You can adjust most pants patterns to a side zip. Trim any zipper seam allowance off the center front crotch and make the side seam where the zipper is going in a little wider to make it easier to insert. :)
I'm excited to try this method on a pair of pants for my son. He wears only clothes from the 1970s and I'm using an old commercial pattern. I'm stuck though. In order to make the pants flare a bit more than the pattern, it seems like I should be adjusting (pinning) both the inseam AND outer leg. So far none of the tutorials on the TDCO method address adjusting the inseam. Is that correct that the primary adjustment related to the "out" part of the method is generally the outside seam only? Thank you!😂
One more thing about this- generally speaking, does the TDCO method never change anything about the crotch point? I think I understand that the changes are made by the addition of inches at the top that are adjusted (by sort of flossing) to get to the correct position. So no change to the center crotch point is necessary? Do I have that right?
Happy you're diving into TDCO to fit your son's pants! The inseam is not adjusted in the original TDCO method developed by Ruth Collins. I've been working with it extensively both on Zoom and in in-person fitting classes... in most cases, the inseam does not need to be adjusted. But if you need extra ease along the inseam because of an athletic front thigh or inner thigh, I add an extra "Safety" seam allowance along the inseam so I can let it out we need more room. The great part about working with a single leg muslin to start with is that you can add extra along the inseam. After fitting the single leg, you can trim off any excess before cutting out the second leg to test the full muslin. (Adding extra gives you room to extend the crotch points if you need more depth!) Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Thanks so much for these instructional videos on the TDCO method! I'm trying it out on the peppermint/in the folds pattern as well. My measurements put me at a size G at the hip and E at the waist. So I traced the G for crotch, inseam and hem. So now I would trace E for the outseam and add 1 inch for extra seam allowance and add the wedge, right? I can't wrap my head around if I'll still have enough room in the hip if I make the outseam a smaller size.. would appreciate any insights!
I'm so happy you're enjoying this series, If you're concerned about not having enough ease... Add 2" along the side seam edges. That will give you a total of 8" of excess seam allowance that you can use to let out the side seam if you need to! Hope this helps, Thanks Jen
I don't like contoured waistbands. Do you have a recommendation for a pattern the same style straight/wide leg pants with a straight waistband for hip 56"?
Here's the good news you can use this pattern... because if you fit your pants using a straight waistband... You can sew a straight waistband on! Here is a video showing how to construct a pants fitting waistband to work with. ruclips.net/video/r_RSf5KD_MA/видео.html Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
With any method of pants fitting when you will be making a fit muslin (one or two legs)... I use the pocket bag to "close" the front pocket opening (Position the pocket back together with the front leg and trace around the waistline and side seam edges).... Then after I finish fitting, I check the pocket pieces to see if they need to be adjusted to agree with the adjusted front leg. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jen! I received my top down center out pants fitting kit. Thank you! How would you deal with a curved waistband with elastic on the back when using the top down center out pants fitting method? Thanks.
I have found that using the non-stretch waistband and gathering the waistline edge to mimic the ease added to the leg from elastic works great. Here's a tutorial for that. (I'm using a straight waistband inthis tutorial, but you can do the same thing with a curved waistband. ruclips.net/video/G21MR1K8qwo/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me... Happy New Year
Hello - love you videos. Question, my waist size is larger than my hip--so, when I add the extra to the outer/side seam is it during sewing that I gradually grade from the larger waist to the smaller hip and leg? Hope that makes sense.
If your waistline is larger than your hips, pick a larger size for the side seam...and the side that agrees with your full hip measurement for the CF/CB inseam. That way you'll have room to fit the waistline and take in the side seam as needed along the hip and leg... without guessing ahead of time when you're tracing your pattern pieces :) Thanks for fitting along with me
I baste the darts in using the longest straight stitch possible and I keep the dart intake on the right side of the muslin so I can easily take them out and move them or adjust the dart intake if I need to :)
:) It's common for Smiles to appear when you pull the waistline up too high at the side seams. The Top Down Center Out Method really helps to find the balance of the front/back leg. Plus, you can play with the position of the waistline at CF/CB & Side seams to get the leg to hang properly. I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I do not see the link to your store. You mentioned it was in the “description” but I have not found a “description “ either. I look at all the transcript but don’t see that either. Perhaps you can respond to this comment with the link? Thank you
Any body can have a straight or curved waistband. They "sit" differently on the body. A curved waistband can be positioned where you like your waistband to sit. A straight waistband tends to nestle at your smallest measurement (usually, but not always your natural waist). Hope this helps!
Here's a website with lots of good sources to get your pdf patterns printed ...www.munaandbroad.com/blogs/news/printing-pdf-patterns-at-a-copyshop Thanks for watching
Same here. In fact I didn’t see ANY sewing mags. Lots of knitting, crocheting, and other crafting (even coloring books), but nothing for sewing. And I called Threads … if you subscribe now you are too late to receive the summer issue with the top down center out method. Just plain out of luck
Let me simply point out that this method is basically a creditless rebranding of the Palmer and Pletsch method, first published in their "Pants for real people" in 2003.
On the surface, the Top Down Center Out Method does look like a carbon copy of the Palmer & Pletsch method... But there's a lot more to it than just pinning together the front and back leg. Once you start to dive into TDCO, You can try different things within the pattern to direct the fabric to fit smoothly over your curves... One basic difference is that tissue paper doesn't drape like fabric. But having said that, I am of the camp that there are many ways to reach your fitting goals... and if the Palmer Pletsch Method speaks to you... then it's the best method for you... Thanks for watching!
It's a bit disingenuous to exaggerate the difference between suggesting tissue paper and using muslin into a radically new idea. P&P do suggest muslin as well, they just point out that many simple fitting adjustments can be done just in tissue paper for some people. Yes, it's harder these days for people to get a hold of a paper copy of an older book, but in fact it's available as an ebook (I checked it out to review from my public library). So not a good excuse for outright plagiarism..
I guess comparing the two methods by commenting on using the tissue paper pattern wasn't really the best way for me to answer your initial comment. The P&P method of pants fitting is a hybrid of how I have been fitting pants forever using a two leg muslin. Some of their recommended adjustments are made within the pattern pieces (for example to adjust the rise you either overlap the tissue or cut it and spread it) and changes are made to the edges of the pattern pieces... Scooping, extending crotch points, etc. This is all great stuff, I've had huge success using these techniques! The Top Down Center Out Method differs in a few key ways. First, it's guiding principle is to look at the style of the pants so you can see what the designer intended.... This leads to the idea that when you prepare your pattern pieces, you don't change the shape of the edges because it changes the design of the pant. For example, you don't adjust the inseams for fullness in the upper thighs or create more hip curve along the side seams. You also do not have to scoop the crotch curve to make more room inside your pants. Initially I tried the TDCO method with an elastic waistband because I didn't think it mattered very much to the fitting process. When I wasn't getting great results, I switched to a non-stretch waistband. Having the waistband fitted on to you where you wear your pant and using it as an anchor to fit from top down makes a huge difference when you're manipulating the darts to direct the fabric to hang properly for your figure. I have spent a lot of time with Ruth, who created the top down center out method... I know how she researched this method and how long it took for her to be able to present it to the public. Definitely not plagiarized. I've been fitting pants for 15 years... it's my first love. I think all methods of fitting have elements that overlap...Nothing in fashion or fitting is "New" in the sense that it's never been discovered before, everything has been discovered. What makes each method new or updated or different is how all the steps to the process are put together to achieve the goal of the sewer.
ciao potresti aiutare? I miei pantalone fanno delle brutte pieghe obligue da sotto il sedere fino alle ginocchia ma non conosco la tua lingua mi aiuteresti in ITALIANO? Grazie
Thank you so much, Jen! The tip of velcro is very useful and the idea that I have to avoid grading the pattern in the various locations of my body is very important (it wasn't clear at all for me before). Your explanation of this method is the most mastered I found. You are a great teacher, Jen. Thank you for let people take advantage from your precious value! 😍
Thank you for the kind words... and for fitting along with me!
Jen, thank you so much for this video, you are an excellent teacher. It all makes such good sense.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind words... and for fitting along with me
Love the explanation of the dart directing ease and the velcro is a genius idea! 💚
Thanks so much! ...The velcro idea came to me when I was trying to see my CF waistline over my G-Cup Bust!!
Thank you so much for demonstrating this method! There's information all over but nothing as easy to follow as yours. BTW I had a mirror in hiding too and am now using it
:) I love that!! Thank you so much for fitting along with me!
Thank you for all the tips for the TDCO method! I follow the PR thread and have the Threads magazine with the TDCO article but would love to see you make a video showing us the half muslin on you or another person, and how you pull or move the fabric through the WB to get the correct fit and keep the horizontal balance lines. Maybe someone you know would be willing to don a leotard, so they won't be standing there in their underwear. Lol. Looking forward to seeing how the legs can be slimmed down as well. Like another comment below, I'm interested in comparing this method to my self-drafted pants. Interesting!
My Pleasure! There is so much to unpack with TDCO... More coming! I'm also going to be teaching detailed classes! Thank you for fitting along with me.
Really clever using the Velcro. Thanks, Jenn! This will be a great journey! 🤩
Yay! Thank you! ...and thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank you! This was so helpful. I made one leg yesterday but wanted to watch your video before fitting. You gave some great tips especially the velcro--brilliant idea!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
So many pointers, thank you so much for this free class!! it is great
You're very welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Changing in the dart working on myself is going to be interesting. I too am very excited
:) Yay!!
Thanks so much for this very clear instruction. Love, love the Velcro tip. More importantly, though, I’ve been sewing 60 years and consider myself advanced in skill, but I never fully understood the workings of those darts😂! I’m making wide leg pants tonight and will utilize some of these tips.
Love the velcro tips! And the curved waistband of the peppermint pattern.... more likely to fit my body shape
:) Thanks... and thank you for fitting along with me!
The Velcro is brilliant! I have so many questions and will watch this again. Looking forward to the pleated pants.
Yay, Just make sure you don't put too many vertical velcro strips on the inside of the waistline edge. You need to be able to adjust and shift the waistline around! One strip on the front and back legs is enough... along with along the CB seam allowance. ... Think of them as "sticky pins" :)
I was so busy between the last 2 weeks of August and first 2 weeks of September that I missed it all, but I did meet my first Grandchild who lives 2000 miles away!!!! Ohhhhhh!
I've got so much to catch up with, including watching this Aug 30th Review
again. Boy am I tired.
Thanks J. If I had more energy, I'd be as excited as you Sweetie! Great job, and thanks
for being our Tester!
Congratulations on the new Grand Baby!! that's definitely more exciting than pants fitting :)))) Keep me posted if you have questions as you catch up (at your happy pace)
Unfortunately, I saw this video about 30 minutes after I cut my first muslin for the Threads pant fitting method. I will go back and add 4 " to the top of the pieces before starting the fitting. I love the velcro fitting method, which will be a big help.
I'm so sorry about that... (but I am giggling a little bit on the inside... because I did the same thing with my first try!) Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thanks for all the pointers. Loved the Velcro idea. I did try this with another wide leg pattern. I have a short rise in the front and it fit perfect there but I got it to small between my waist and hips. I must not have had the centers seams in the right place. We learn from mistakes. Ready to try it again. You are an excellent teacher!
:) I didn't give my self enough extra at the side seam or along the waistline on my first try either!! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Thankyou, very helpful....working on pants just now, much appreciated 😀
You’re welcome 😊 Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for such a great explanation of this method!🙏
Thanks so much! and thanks for watching
Thank you so much for taking on this project and sharing your progressI I am so relieved to see it demonstrated and evaluated. I will definitely be following you as you continue… and I will definitely be trying it myself.
You are so welcome! and thank you for following along with me!
I'm most intrigued by this method. I read the article in Threads and your video explains the process very well. Question, if you don't blend between sizes, how will you eliminate fullness in the leg? Because that fullness was not part of the design. I'm guessing you address that with your half muslin? I would love to see an actual demo on how to transfer the adjustments to the flat pattern.
:) Blending between sizes should be used to get the fit right, not remove ease. A very important part of this method is to look at what the designer intended so you can see what you should expect when you make your muslin. These pants I'm working on have a wide leg. Changing the wide leg to a fitted leg will change the design of the pants... You can totally do that, but it may cause more fitting issues. If you'd like a more fitted leg, I think it's easier to find a pattern that's designed with a fitted leg. I will be sharing details and my experiences with a variety of pants patterns... Stay tuned!
I think the velcro idea is great. I have tried this using pins and I found it a bit awkward especially as my shoulder had an injury at the time and I had limited movement. Thank-you for this.
Thanks! I'm so happy to hear... and thank you for fitting along with me.
Hi from England. Thank you so much for this video. I have always had problems with pants, both rtw and memade as I have a flat bottom and therre is always too much fabric. This method of fitting from the waistband seems so obvious and I am looking forward to the next videos. It has given me encouragement to try trousers again.
I'm so happy you're fitting along with me. Keep me posted if you have questions! ...and if you would like some quality time (if your time zone works with my EDT time zone), I'm teaching a step-by-step pants fitting class that will include this method on November 12 & 13... 4-2 hour classes. We will go through the entire process of making a fitting waistband and work on a one leg muslin to fine tune the fit. Then we'll transfer all the changes to the pattern pieces and cut out the second leg. ...I think it's going to be the last pants fitting class you'll ever need! (class is limited to 10 students) jsterndesigns.com/product/top-down-center-out-pants-fitting-zoom-class/
@@JSternDesigns Thank you for this information. I will look into it.
VELCRO!! BRIIIILIANT!!! This review was helpful in so many ways - going to find more of your videos now…
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you for showing this. I only first came across this method a couple of days ago and I'm really intrigued by it. I do want to give it a go but I'm trying to absorb as much as I can first. Thank you for the time you take and effort you put into your videos. They are always so helpful and full of info :)
You are so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you Jenn - you are so generous with your skill. I had read about this method but frankly couldn’t really grasp it until you gave us your insights!
Glad it was helpful! ...and thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you!!!!
GREAT REVIEW!!
Top down, center out is the way to fit pants.
Also MANY THANKS to the TDCO creator Ruth Collins
My Pleasure... and yes! Many many thanks to Ruth Collins, she's amazing :)
Thank you. You explain things so clearly. I appreciate all your efforts.
You're very welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you very much Jen , this video has been extremely helpful . The Velcro idea is genius ! Cheers, Bridget
:) My Pleasure, Thank you so much for fitting along with me
Thank you Jen! Following along but not able to actually do it right now. Looking forward to more videos.
Happy to hear!! Thank you for fitting along with me
Hi Jen, I am watching this again, ready to start my first TDCO attempt. Thanks for the extra info about the dart purpose, that is something I didn’t understand or know about. Your videos and Stacey’s from The Crooked Hem are so helpful!
...I'm so happy you're going to give it a go! & Yes, Stacey's videos are amazing too! Keep me posted if you need help as you start working :)
Thanks for these amazing tips Jen! 🥰 the not grading the pattern tip was super helpful! 😅I have been working on a burda pant for the office and couldn’t figure out how to increase the waistband due to my menopause belly gain. 🥺. After making the pattern adjustments I did tissue fitting. It fit like a glove! Then I cut the first pair from a less expensive fabric similar to the more pricier fabric that I really need to check the fit. This way I end up with 2 pairs. 😃You’re amazing! 🤩Thanks for all the help🥰
So happy to hear!! (I think we are belly gain twins!!) Thank you for fitting along with me :)
@@JSternDesigns 😂😂that’s funny! 😘
can't wait to see how the front pleats work out when you get to them
I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. ..We'll be working with the Assembly Line High Waist Pleated Trousers. I think I'll have some nice samples to share from that class...Mine and my student's :) Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
Very helpful review. Thanks Jen.
Thanks so much...and thank you for following along with me
I love the velcro idea! Definitely something to try in my fittings. I've cut out a commercial pattern ready to go - I'm so interested to compare the results with my pretty-good self-drafted pants (but which still need a good scooping - ....or do they....?)
I'm going to do the same thing!! I'm going to fit my Happy Pants using this method to see what kind of results I get (compared to my fitted pair). Stay tuned!
Great video, great method. So if I'm not mistaken, the TDCO uses draping techniques to fit a flat pattern?
Thanks so much, ...yes, you are creating a separate non-stretch fitting waistband & positioning that on yourself first. Then you drape a single leg muslin from it to fit the pattern :) Here's a link to a tutorial showing how to make the non-stretch waistband. ruclips.net/video/r_RSf5KD_MA/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for this video. Working on mine now
You're welcome! I'm excited to hear that you're making pants! Keep me posted if you have questions
I am intrigued.
Give it a try! It really makes pants fitting easier :)
well that velcro is just genius. the number of scrapes i get from pins!!!
:) thanks! It was inspired by my big bust and not being able to see my waistband 😂
@@JSternDesigns busts really get in the way don't they! if only there was a way to swivel them round the back when we need to do stuff LOL
Thank you very much for this Jen. It is extremely helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great video! It's so helpful to see how you used this approach and to get your great tips. As you know, I'm in the process of trying to fit my Happy Pants and struggling a bit with a couple different fit areas. Do you think it would help me to set aside my current Happy Pants muslin and try this method with your Happy Pants pattern? Or, should I try this method with a different pants pattern? I'm thinking about what you said at the end of the video about this method working well for you with loose, wide-leg pants, but that you will have to wait and see how it works with patterns with a more fitted leg. I'd love your advice on the next steps for my pants fitting. Thanks!
...Thanks! I'm going to test this method using the Happy Pants pattern... so when we get together the next time, I'll be ready to help you try it this way. I do think it may be easier to balance the front and back waistline/crotch. Then we can fine tune from there!
Thank you for all of your fitting advice. I have begun a journey with the TDCO method and your videos are so very helpful. Have you discovered pants patterns that you think are particularly good for TDCO?
Since this video, I've worked with TDCO extensively... with women of all shapes and sizes, in person and in zoom classes... What I've discovered is that TDCO works all by itself as a fitting method in two situations. 1. If you're working with a wide leg pants pattern like the high waisted wide leg pants from in the Folds and Peppermint Magazine, TDCO works great because you're essentially fitting a skirt... the crotch seam and leg fabric does not touch your body, so it's a really easy pattern to start with. inthefolds.com/wide-leg-pants-pattern 2. If you happen to pick out a pants pattern that is more fitted AND the shape of the crotch curve agrees with your body shape, it also works pretty well. I really tried (like an Olympic sport) to fit any pattern to any body... the more fitted the pattern, the less it worked without adding body specific adjustments into the mix. Here's a tutorial that explains why. ruclips.net/video/WflHfYM3jcs/видео.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for this! I can’t wait to start my next pants project….hopefully this one will give me a pair of pants that are comfortable !
I'm so excited that you're going to give it a try! Thanks for fitting along with me
I'm going to jump in here and repeat that using the velcro is a total game changer.
:) Yay! Thanks for fitting along with me
This was so interesting! I have been trying (not too successfully) to take out extra ease below my butt on a pair of Style Arc elastic waist pants for a while. Always interested in learning the ins and outs of fitting.
:) Check Part 2 of my Pants Fitting Trouble Shooting Series, I share how to remove excess ease on the back leg before cutting out the fit muslin! ruclips.net/video/eZUsbnpDCaM/видео.html
The pants I want to fit this way have a cut on waistband with a facing. I am trying to use the facing with the velcro at the top as that is where the pants will connect. If this doesn't work, I will try a simpler pattern for my first try. Even as I type this, I know that is what I should be doing! Oh, well--only time and fabric!
You should be able to use the facing with the velcro at the top! ... I have that same time problem :)))
This is great thanks very much. Cheers Mary
You are very welcome, thank you for fitting along with me
Hi Jen, Thank you so much for this video, so happy to finally understand it. Im wondering if you have a video or something that I could be refer to I just has a colostomy done from of my stomack and would love to make pants (not wirh elastic waist band) but to change the pattern front zip to side zip would really help me. Thank for reading and great content. Xoxo
Thanks! You can adjust most pants patterns to a side zip. Trim any zipper seam allowance off the center front crotch and make the side seam where the zipper is going in a little wider to make it easier to insert. :)
Thanks!
Thank you so much!
That was a very useful video
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Brilliant on the Velcro
Thanks!
So, so helpful!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
I'm excited to try this method on a pair of pants for my son. He wears only clothes from the 1970s and I'm using an old commercial pattern. I'm stuck though. In order to make the pants flare a bit more than the pattern, it seems like I should be adjusting (pinning) both the inseam AND outer leg. So far none of the tutorials on the TDCO method address adjusting the inseam. Is that correct that the primary adjustment related to the "out" part of the method is generally the outside seam only?
Thank you!😂
One more thing about this- generally speaking, does the TDCO method never change anything about the crotch point? I think I understand that the changes are made by the addition of inches at the top that are adjusted (by sort of flossing) to get to the correct position. So no change to the center crotch point is necessary? Do I have that right?
Happy you're diving into TDCO to fit your son's pants! The inseam is not adjusted in the original TDCO method developed by Ruth Collins. I've been working with it extensively both on Zoom and in in-person fitting classes... in most cases, the inseam does not need to be adjusted. But if you need extra ease along the inseam because of an athletic front thigh or inner thigh, I add an extra "Safety" seam allowance along the inseam so I can let it out we need more room. The great part about working with a single leg muslin to start with is that you can add extra along the inseam. After fitting the single leg, you can trim off any excess before cutting out the second leg to test the full muslin. (Adding extra gives you room to extend the crotch points if you need more depth!) Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
I have the Peppermint wide leg pants pattern, but I haven’t done a muslin with it yet.
:) That’s the perfect pattern to get started with because you’re basically fitting a split skirt!
@@JSternDesigns Perfect, thanks!
Thanks so much for these instructional videos on the TDCO method! I'm trying it out on the peppermint/in the folds pattern as well. My measurements put me at a size G at the hip and E at the waist. So I traced the G for crotch, inseam and hem. So now I would trace E for the outseam and add 1 inch for extra seam allowance and add the wedge, right? I can't wrap my head around if I'll still have enough room in the hip if I make the outseam a smaller size.. would appreciate any insights!
I'm so happy you're enjoying this series, If you're concerned about not having enough ease... Add 2" along the side seam edges. That will give you a total of 8" of excess seam allowance that you can use to let out the side seam if you need to! Hope this helps, Thanks Jen
I don't like contoured waistbands. Do you have a recommendation for a pattern the same style straight/wide leg pants with a straight waistband for hip 56"?
Here's the good news you can use this pattern... because if you fit your pants using a straight waistband... You can sew a straight waistband on! Here is a video showing how to construct a pants fitting waistband to work with. ruclips.net/video/r_RSf5KD_MA/видео.html Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jen,how do you handle the pockets when you are fitting the TDCO method of pants fitting?
With any method of pants fitting when you will be making a fit muslin (one or two legs)... I use the pocket bag to "close" the front pocket opening (Position the pocket back together with the front leg and trace around the waistline and side seam edges).... Then after I finish fitting, I check the pocket pieces to see if they need to be adjusted to agree with the adjusted front leg. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jen! I received my top down center out pants fitting kit. Thank you! How would you deal with a curved waistband with elastic on the back when using the top down center out pants fitting method? Thanks.
I have found that using the non-stretch waistband and gathering the waistline edge to mimic the ease added to the leg from elastic works great. Here's a tutorial for that. (I'm using a straight waistband inthis tutorial, but you can do the same thing with a curved waistband. ruclips.net/video/G21MR1K8qwo/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me... Happy New Year
Hello - love you videos. Question, my waist size is larger than my hip--so, when I add the extra to the outer/side seam is it during sewing that I gradually grade from the larger waist to the smaller hip and leg? Hope that makes sense.
If your waistline is larger than your hips, pick a larger size for the side seam...and the side that agrees with your full hip measurement for the CF/CB inseam. That way you'll have room to fit the waistline and take in the side seam as needed along the hip and leg... without guessing ahead of time when you're tracing your pattern pieces :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Also the darts in the back?
I baste the darts in using the longest straight stitch possible and I keep the dart intake on the right side of the muslin so I can easily take them out and move them or adjust the dart intake if I need to :)
What do I do for horizontal lines below my butt? I call them smile lines.
:) It's common for Smiles to appear when you pull the waistline up too high at the side seams. The Top Down Center Out Method really helps to find the balance of the front/back leg. Plus, you can play with the position of the waistline at CF/CB & Side seams to get the leg to hang properly. I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I do not see the link to your store. You mentioned it was in the “description” but I have not found a “description “ either. I look at all the transcript but don’t see that either. Perhaps you can respond to this comment with the link? Thank you
Sorry about that! Here it is jsterndesigns.com/ Thanks for watching!
How do you know if you need a curved or straight waistband?
Any body can have a straight or curved waistband. They "sit" differently on the body. A curved waistband can be positioned where you like your waistband to sit. A straight waistband tends to nestle at your smallest measurement (usually, but not always your natural waist). Hope this helps!
I'm new to PDF patterns. Where do you print your patterns on the large paper?
Here's a website with lots of good sources to get your pdf patterns printed ...www.munaandbroad.com/blogs/news/printing-pdf-patterns-at-a-copyshop Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you
Can you do a skinny Jean?
Yes, you can... I'm working on that and I'll share once I get the fit I'm looking for!
Bedankt
Graag gedaan... & Bedankt voor het passen met mij (I used google translate, so I hope this makes sense!
Morning
:)
Hi Jen. My Jo Ann’s didn’t have any Threads magazines :(
Same here. In fact I didn’t see ANY sewing mags. Lots of knitting, crocheting, and other crafting (even coloring books), but nothing for sewing. And I called Threads … if you subscribe now you are too late to receive the summer issue with the top down center out method. Just plain out of luck
I would be willing to copy mine and send it to people. But, Jen, you could do that and send it because you have a store. Great video, thanks so much.
I recently bought a copy of the Threads summer 2020 on Amazon.
(Sorry, that was meant to say 2022!)
@@lynnleipold2617 Wouldn’t that violate copyright laws?
@@jgsawka I think we are wanting Summer 2022 not 2020 or was that a typo?
Let me simply point out that this method is basically a creditless rebranding of the Palmer and Pletsch method, first published in their "Pants for real people" in 2003.
On the surface, the Top Down Center Out Method does look like a carbon copy of the Palmer & Pletsch method... But there's a lot more to it than just pinning together the front and back leg. Once you start to dive into TDCO, You can try different things within the pattern to direct the fabric to fit smoothly over your curves... One basic difference is that tissue paper doesn't drape like fabric. But having said that, I am of the camp that there are many ways to reach your fitting goals... and if the Palmer Pletsch Method speaks to you... then it's the best method for you... Thanks for watching!
It's a bit disingenuous to exaggerate the difference between suggesting tissue paper and using muslin into a radically new idea. P&P do suggest muslin as well, they just point out that many simple fitting adjustments can be done just in tissue paper for some people. Yes, it's harder these days for people to get a hold of a paper copy of an older book, but in fact it's available as an ebook (I checked it out to review from my public library). So not a good excuse for outright plagiarism..
I guess comparing the two methods by commenting on using the tissue paper pattern wasn't really the best way for me to answer your initial comment. The P&P method of pants fitting is a hybrid of how I have been fitting pants forever using a two leg muslin. Some of their recommended adjustments are made within the pattern pieces (for example to adjust the rise you either overlap the tissue or cut it and spread it) and changes are made to the edges of the pattern pieces... Scooping, extending crotch points, etc. This is all great stuff, I've had huge success using these techniques! The Top Down Center Out Method differs in a few key ways. First, it's guiding principle is to look at the style of the pants so you can see what the designer intended.... This leads to the idea that when you prepare your pattern pieces, you don't change the shape of the edges because it changes the design of the pant. For example, you don't adjust the inseams for fullness in the upper thighs or create more hip curve along the side seams. You also do not have to scoop the crotch curve to make more room inside your pants. Initially I tried the TDCO method with an elastic waistband because I didn't think it mattered very much to the fitting process. When I wasn't getting great results, I switched to a non-stretch waistband. Having the waistband fitted on to you where you wear your pant and using it as an anchor to fit from top down makes a huge difference when you're manipulating the darts to direct the fabric to hang properly for your figure. I have spent a lot of time with Ruth, who created the top down center out method... I know how she researched this method and how long it took for her to be able to present it to the public. Definitely not plagiarized. I've been fitting pants for 15 years... it's my first love. I think all methods of fitting have elements that overlap...Nothing in fashion or fitting is "New" in the sense that it's never been discovered before, everything has been discovered. What makes each method new or updated or different is how all the steps to the process are put together to achieve the goal of the sewer.
Great answer! You took the time to give a thoughtful and respectful answer that demonstrated your expertise and grace. Kudos to you, Jen!
ciao potresti aiutare? I miei pantalone fanno delle brutte pieghe obligue da sotto il sedere fino alle ginocchia ma non conosco la tua lingua mi aiuteresti in ITALIANO? Grazie
Try using Google translate
prova a usare Google traduttore
زبان ما فارسی است ترجمه فارسی هم بزارید لطفا