Adding the ease to the pocket lining/front leg... I tried thumbs-uping a second time because it's SUCH a great tip. This was so so so useful. Thank you!
Jen, you did a great job on your pants! They look really nice on you. Your husband is a thoughtful guy - those stop action moments gave us a minute to study the fit. I can't wait to get started on mine.
Yay, thanks for sharing that. I was aware that menswear dress pants have large safety seam allowances along the back crotch (especially at the waistline end) …& thanks for fitting along with me!
I have just found this video after trying to create a block (8 times later) 1 go at TDCO and a win!! I have made 1x muslin for one leg, adjusted my pattern and created a full pant. I did a few extra min adjustments to my pants and now they fit me perfect. I am so happy I found your videos but I'm unhappy I can't attend your classes as a student. I would learn so much. Thank you Jen!!!! 😊
I'm so happy to hear you made pants you're happy with!! I'm so sorry you can't attend my classes... Keep me posted if you need help! Thanks for fitting along with me
Good to know about type of fabric used now and linen later, I agree completely. I can pull many of my pants on and off as you do. I get what you were saying. My main 3 measurements are about the same, less hourglass more rectangle/box like 😁 I like my waist to fit my largest point and that can shift more often I'm noticing in my 50's 🤣🤣
:) I can't wait for spring to roll around so I can make a linen pair of Peppermint Pants!! ... I also have the same issue (in my 50s) with my pants that fit my tummy... they do slide around. I was really surprised how comfortable the waistband was when I positioned it above my tummy to a "slightly" smaller measurement. It stays put! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I’ve had seen other materials on Top Down Center Out. Thanks for making these videos. The Velcro is just brilliant. I made a waistband and briefly tried fitting a pant leg. Amazing.
So happy to help! and I'm excited you gave it a try... Keep in mind, the more you practice with it, the better you'll get. :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Very nice. I signed up for Threads and grabbed that article and have been watching various people who have tried this method. I can’t wait to try this method on my daughter. She’s very hard to fit pants for.
Thanks for this thorough explanation. I'll say I'm really happy with how quickly the TDCO method got me very close to the fit I wanted in a pair of wide-leg pants I'm making. I relieved me of a lot of stress and time and guesswork. Once I got as close as I could I still had a drape of fabric hanging from the center front crotch that I could in no way get rid of either on the top or the side of the pants. I ended up shortening the front crotch curve at the juncture and it worked perfectly. I love how close this method got me and I'm also glad I have other methods in my toolbox for those last little tweaks! Thanks Jenn
Enjoyed the video at the end. I wore my pants today when I went out to lunch as a test run. Mine are linen. I think I’m in love. I have never worn Wide leg before but they were super comfy. I think on my next pair I am going to shorten the front rise just a little but I do like my clothes close to my body. I was told they looked good so I hope that was true. Now I have to hit my stash and see what else I have to make another pair.
I have been fitting pants for a long time... All along the way, I've never paid any attention to what other pants fitting teachers were doing. When I saw the article in Threads magazine, I was really intrigued. I reached out to Ruth and she graciously met with me on Zoom to talk pants fitting! I had a few mis-starts with this method too. Since then I've worked it out and I'm using it with my Private Pants Fitting Students (getting really good results with women who have very different figures) & I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I think this video answered the question I just asked on the last video. Once I know my waistband is working for me then I can make a more permanent version with decovil. I'm sure I have plenty of options given my bag making stash 😁
You can use the Decovil to make your fitting waistband and your final waistband on your pants. The goal for the fitting waistband is to create a waistband that's durable and non-stretch so you can reuse it over and over again! Plus, you can "test" the firmness of the heavy or light interfacing to help you decide if you need more or less firmness when you make your actual pants with waistband! Thanks for fitting along with me
Extremely helpful!! Your use of velcro strips is ingenious. I'm built almost exactly like you are. I liked my first pair of Peppermint/In the Folds wide leg pants a lot but thought my rise needed to be just a smidge higher on my next pair. I've been watching all of the videos about this method and am excited to try this out. If I can get the fit perfected I will be cranking out many pairs of pants from this great pattern!
My waist is a couple of dress sizes bigger than my hips, and I’ve always struggled with trousers. I wondered if TDCO would help & you talking about your measurements/shape really encourages me ❤ Particularly about pulling trousers on/off. That’s my standard thing and I’m constantly fighting gravity 😅
@@JSternDesigns On my current pants pattern, size 16 fits my waist and size 10 fits my hips. With such a disparity, I'm going to try your suggestion: size 16 for side seam and size 10 for inseam.
Thanks so much for this series. I have completed my TDCO one-legged toile using the ITF pattern from Peppermint and interestingly I had to REMOVE 1.5 inches from the front and back waistline (from CF to side to CB) to shorten the crotch seam! Just surprised that I had to remove length from the original pattern. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Anyway, good luck to me when I start sewing the wearable version later today! And thank you for sharing your knowledge. I enjoyed seeing your walk of pride!
My pleasure, I'm having a ball working with this pants fitting method. It is interesting what happens at the waistline. For me, I did not need to change the back rise at all... but I lengthened the front rise 1 1/4"... Hope your wearable pair come out amazing!
Whoa, Babe you nailed the science! No Faucci Ouchies!!!!! So glad I'm catching up! Question, As long as the waist is no stable, could you mix stretch into the body of the pant, just for a softer drape??? Just loving your lectures on this unique fitting! You rock Jen! XOX!
Thanks so much! ...I'm glad your catching up too :) You can work with whatever fabric the pattern recommends. If you're working with a knit pant pattern, you can make a substantial stretch waistband. The key is that it needs to be fitting so it stays put and supports the one leg muslin as you work on fitting it. Hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns You always help! After I asked the question about mixing stretch with a stable waistband, I thought about the Stable Roll you were showing. Nothing says we can't upholster the stable roll with the stretch fabric. Anyway, I'm loving the Top Down/Center Out idea and I am sure it will work out marvelously. I was so happy to see you excited about a new method Jen. That's what got me excited! Keep your eyes open! Always! XOX
Thanks so much for this very clear and informative series of videos. I am going to download the pattern and give it a try. I would love to see how you would fit a pair of elastic waist pants with this method. Also, if you know the weight of the denim (oz per yard?) it would be good to know, it drapes very nicely. The finished pants look very nice.
Thanks! ...and I'm definitely going to share how this method works with my Knit Pull On Pants, stay tuned for that. The denim I used to make my Peppermint Wide Leg Pants was a lighter weight (7 oz) denim. It did have a tiny amount of stretch, but it's not being asked to stretch anywhere!
Thanks, many good types and suggestions! My only critique is the length. Longer pant legs are more flattering on all body types. The shorter the person, the wider the pant leg the shorter and heavier you look.
I agree with your proportion is important! You need the hem to hover above the floor to make sure it's parallel to the floor while fitting... Then you can lengthen the hem after fitting the pattern. Thanks for fitting along with me
Yes I do! I just finished working with a man to fit his jeans! Here's a link to my private zoom pants fitting. During the first session, we would adjust a pant sloper or jean pattern to your measurements. jsterndesigns.com/product/custom-pants-fitting/ You can email me if you have more questions at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
The original article was published in the Spring 2022 issue of Threads Magazine. I'm guessing your local library may have a copy... Or you can go to Threads Magazine online and sign up for their free trial to their online content. (You may end up keeping it, there's so much quality sewing content on their website.) Also, I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. I have received permission to provide the Threads Article as a hand out for students in class. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/ Here's a link to Threads website to check out their online "Threads Insider" free trial subscribe.threadsmagazine.com/loading.do?pk=W3050PPC&gclid=CjwKCAjw4JWZBhApEiwAtJUN0Cr6n9Vgn4Q4ExtelxPCgUvrbm2jnmAZ6y4QmAEoldmCa00_oFCrUxoC-EwQAvD_BwE&omedasite=THR_trial
I really like the pattern and Holly came out those are great for walking on the beach too… We could add length of them though we want it right if I wanted it to go further down past my ankles … They’re kind of right now at like between regular pants and capris like a little above Highwater which is cute but not what I would want to do in the winter so I could add length you would you be able to do a video on how to add length without compromising the shape of the pattern
They look and move great! If I manage to get this fit on a pair of pants I will clone the heck out of them. I have recently had to take in the back inseam on a pair of wide leg linen pants which I made last fall with a little jacket for a faux boiler suit. I loved them but due to surgery (successful) I have lost mass and tone in my butt and thighs and it's slower to come back than my waistline, so I acted in desperation. I may have a bit of a shapeless butt, but the legs hang great. When using the TDCO method, when would I take in the back legs? Or, to respect the integrity of the pattern should I look for another pattern? I think the width at the hem is fine.
Thanks! (sorry for the delayed response!) The beauty of this method is that you can try different things with the same one leg muslin. I'm assuming you've added extra seam allowance along the side seam. Instead of sewing them on the original stitching line, sew the side seam 1/2" from the edge. This will give you ease to play with front and back. After establishing the CF/CB waistline, inseam and hem, fit the back and front legs separately along the side seam.. You can take in the back the amount you need and the front the amount you need... You don't have to adjust them equally :) Hope this helps!
Thank you for this video! I've been struggling with crotch curves for a year and feel hopeful about the TDCO approach! I'm excited about giving this a go! My question is about the waistband. The waistband you used for the toile looked a bit wider than the finished waistband on the completed pants. It seems like that would alter the fit... I think. Also, if I want a wider waistband on this pattern, could I just start with what I want at toile stage and continue on from there? Thanks!
:) I'm so excited you're going to try TDCO! ...The Fitting Waistband can be any width because the pants hang from the bottom half inch. One reason to make the waistband more narrow is for fitting comfort. Some body shapes are curvy and do not have a space around that will accommodate a wider waistband. I recently had one of my private pants fitting students trim 1/2" off the top of her fitting waistband because it wasn't sitting against her body comfortably. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Your top down center out videos are great. Starting with the waistband haas been a game changer. But I haven't found any discussion of the shape of the inseam curve where it meets the crotch point. This must also affect the fit of the pants, but is an area that isn't covered by the waistline or side seams. Can you give some perspective?
;) thanks! Sometimes the inseam curve can cause the hem at the inseam to look like it’s flared …check this tutorial out How to Fix a Hinge in the Inseam When Extending the Crotch ruclips.net/video/OGJgSiHfCVg/видео.html
Thank you for sharing this method it’s very helpful. Your pants look very stylish , the fit is perfect . Great idea to use linen ( I was wondering which fabric to use )we are going in to summer so I will use that. Could I ask, I nearly always have to shorten my pants approximately 3 -4 inches, should I just turn them up for fitting or cut the toile to my size ? Thank you for any advice, Cheers, Bridget
I'm so excited that you're going to try this method! I would adjust the length of the leg to fit you. That way you won't have lots of excess fabric hanging at the hem. Thanks for fitting along with me
HiJ. Can I ask u a question. I just learned how to make a pants pattern.BUT not yet make a sample to see how it fits. I want to know after cutting the pattern and when I lay it on the fabric do I lay the pants pattern front and back piece with the crotchs facing each other or do I have to have them facing outwards?? meaning one crouch facing to the left and the other crutch to the right?
That's a great question. As long as the crotch extensions are going in the opposite direction... Either pointing to each other or pointing away from each other you will cut a front and back that go together to make a leg! I'm excited for you!! Let me know how it's going :)
Is the hem, aka horizontal balance line from the original pattern or established during fitting? When you do TDCO with your Happy Pants will you use the hip style you normally use? You need elbow length oven mitts. Is the link to Threads an affiliate link?
Good questions! If the hem is designed to be parallel to the floor… baste the hem allowance in place and the first step is to adjust the CF/CB waistline so that the inseam is hanging straight and the hem is parallel to the floor. Fitting with the Happy Pants Pattern… First establish the back waist dart and sew it in. Then use the hem as your horizontal balance line. Not an affiliate link to Threads… I just love them 💓… and I was thinking the same thing… I need longer oven mitts when I’m baking sourdough bread… my Dutch Oven is so heavy!
I don't wear pants because of all the fit issues. After Christmas maybe I will try this method. I have a big butt and big thighs. So rtw pants pull at the outside seam at the thighs. Also sometimes when I sit they are tight over the knee cap, I don't know why. I am also knock kneed.
:) Pants are my passion!!! I think you should give it a try! Usually if your pants feel snug at the knees when you bend them it's because the crotch curve is too low in the front! I'm looking forward to you trying to make pants!
Thanks for another great video, I'm loving this series. I tried this method yesterday and found that the crutch curve was still a little snug for me - I will still getting a wedgie - any suggestions thanks
Will this method work for generous and low hanging buttocks and small waist (curvy figure) ? Or do you suggest scooping the back crotch on the pattern used before top down fitting? Meaning: Will the waistband height adjustments still allow for straight grain requirements using hem placement or will the adjustment of crotch curve still also be necessary on this type of figure?
I have been working with my private pants fitting students using this method. Initially I was tempted to start by adjusting the pattern pieces for the student's figure (like I've been doing for years). This worked ok... But what worked better was understanding what the pattern could deliver without changing the shape of it. ...Picking a starting size that agrees with your figure and following the steps to add length at the waistline and width at the side seam worked better. You can choose different sizes based on what's happening along your inner thigh and what your full hip measurement is. I'm teaching a step-by-step class to share this pants fitting method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I'm keen to try TDCO as 'traditional' pants fitting methods don't work for me. My question is this - patterns are slways too long from the waist to crotch seam for me, how would I correct that, especially adding the extra length at the top waist?
I think it's important to be "body aware". If you know you always have too much vertical length in the rise... take a quick measurement of the front and back rise and compare it to your body measurements. If the pattern already has some extra length... Only add enough above the waistline so you have 2" extra if you're a smaller size 0-12 and 4" if you're a size 14 or larger. I also did a tutorial showing how to adjust what you add if you have a tilted waistline. Here's a link to this tutorial in case you'd like to check it out. ruclips.net/video/ZPQ9B3euk60/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
TDCO is a wonderful method to balance the vertical length of the front/back legs... If you're working on wide leg trousers, you can use this method to fit your pants. If you're working on a close fitting style, the shape of the crotch does need to agree with your body shape. (I really tried to fit any pattern to any shape) ,,,the result was that I could... until the crotch curve and legs started to touch the body... Then I had to fit the crotch after using TDCO to balance the leg. Check out this video for a details: ruclips.net/video/WflHfYM3jcs/видео.html
If you have a clinder shape ,narrow from front straight on and your depth is deeper than average. Does this method work? Adding to the top only would not help me. I have drafted a trousers block and my crotch depth is long and works very well to be able to walk. I have never fitted standard ready to wear trousers because of this issue.
:) Yes, you can use this method! Maybe add a little extra to your side seams so you have room to let them out if you need. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Just used this method for some shorts with 4 pleats in the front. Used Lutterloh to draft pattern as is, because they seem to draft the right angle and longer raise on the back for my size. Picked size by hip measurement using the pleats to increase or decrease at the waist. Only change I had to make is to increase approx 1 inch at the centre back waist, decrease to nothing on the centre front (Big4 I need to add at least 3 inches to the back). Scooped out the back crotch and it was done . Thank you
Adding the ease to the pocket lining/front leg... I tried thumbs-uping a second time because it's SUCH a great tip. This was so so so useful. Thank you!
Yay! I love a Thumbs-Up!! Thank you for fitting along with me
Brilliant!!!! Love this demo and your pants are fabulous! Thanks!👏🏼
My Pleasure... and thanks so much for watching
Jen, you did a great job on your pants! They look really nice on you. Your husband is a thoughtful guy - those stop action moments gave us a minute to study the fit. I can't wait to get started on mine.
Thank you so much! and thanks for watching
Good job. There is always a 1-1.5" safety seam allowance left in the seat of mens tailored trousers. It is not a problem. You won't even notice it.
Yay, thanks for sharing that. I was aware that menswear dress pants have large safety seam allowances along the back crotch (especially at the waistline end) …& thanks for fitting along with me!
Hi J. Came back for seconds. Getting ready to draft my side pocket.
This is so exciting!
I'm so excited to hear!! Please keep me posted if you need help with those pockets :)
I have just found this video after trying to create a block (8 times later) 1 go at TDCO and a win!! I have made 1x muslin for one leg, adjusted my pattern and created a full pant. I did a few extra min adjustments to my pants and now they fit me perfect. I am so happy I found your videos but I'm unhappy I can't attend your classes as a student. I would learn so much.
Thank you Jen!!!! 😊
I'm so happy to hear you made pants you're happy with!! I'm so sorry you can't attend my classes... Keep me posted if you need help! Thanks for fitting along with me
Good to know about type of fabric used now and linen later, I agree completely. I can pull many of my pants on and off as you do. I get what you were saying. My main 3 measurements are about the same, less hourglass more rectangle/box like 😁 I like my waist to fit my largest point and that can shift more often I'm noticing in my 50's 🤣🤣
:) I can't wait for spring to roll around so I can make a linen pair of Peppermint Pants!! ... I also have the same issue (in my 50s) with my pants that fit my tummy... they do slide around. I was really surprised how comfortable the waistband was when I positioned it above my tummy to a "slightly" smaller measurement. It stays put! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I’ve had seen other materials on Top Down Center Out. Thanks for making these videos. The Velcro is just brilliant. I made a waistband and briefly tried fitting a pant leg. Amazing.
So happy to help! and I'm excited you gave it a try... Keep in mind, the more you practice with it, the better you'll get. :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Very nice. I signed up for Threads and grabbed that article and have been watching various people who have tried this method. I can’t wait to try this method on my daughter. She’s very hard to fit pants for.
So happy to hear it! I'm going to tackle fitting my daughter too!
Thanks for this thorough explanation. I'll say I'm really happy with how quickly the TDCO method got me very close to the fit I wanted in a pair of wide-leg pants I'm making. I relieved me of a lot of stress and time and guesswork. Once I got as close as I could I still had a drape of fabric hanging from the center front crotch that I could in no way get rid of either on the top or the side of the pants. I ended up shortening the front crotch curve at the juncture and it worked perfectly. I love how close this method got me and I'm also glad I have other methods in my toolbox for those last little tweaks! Thanks Jenn
My pleasure! …and thanks for sharing your experience with it & for fitting along with me!
Enjoyed the video at the end. I wore my pants today when I went out to lunch as a test run. Mine are linen. I think I’m in love. I have never worn Wide leg before but they were super comfy. I think on my next pair I am going to shorten the front rise just a little but I do like my clothes close to my body. I was told they looked good so I hope that was true. Now I have to hit my stash and see what else I have to make another pair.
:) I love it!! We’re expanding our style :)
your such an awesome teacher
Thank you so much, I really appreciate it... Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for the extra tips to get great fitting pants.
You are so welcome! Nerding out on pants fitting is one of my favorite things to do! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you Jennifer for these videos on TDCO. I tired this several weeks ago and had bad results. But I’m still intrigued by this method.
I have been fitting pants for a long time... All along the way, I've never paid any attention to what other pants fitting teachers were doing. When I saw the article in Threads magazine, I was really intrigued. I reached out to Ruth and she graciously met with me on Zoom to talk pants fitting! I had a few mis-starts with this method too. Since then I've worked it out and I'm using it with my Private Pants Fitting Students (getting really good results with women who have very different figures) & I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I think this video answered the question I just asked on the last video. Once I know my waistband is working for me then I can make a more permanent version with decovil. I'm sure I have plenty of options given my bag making stash 😁
You can use the Decovil to make your fitting waistband and your final waistband on your pants. The goal for the fitting waistband is to create a waistband that's durable and non-stretch so you can reuse it over and over again! Plus, you can "test" the firmness of the heavy or light interfacing to help you decide if you need more or less firmness when you make your actual pants with waistband! Thanks for fitting along with me
Extremely helpful!! Your use of velcro strips is ingenious. I'm built almost exactly like you are. I liked my first pair of Peppermint/In the Folds wide leg pants a lot but thought my rise needed to be just a smidge higher on my next pair. I've been watching all of the videos about this method and am excited to try this out. If I can get the fit perfected I will be cranking out many pairs of pants from this great pattern!
You can do it!!! Thanks for fitting along with me
So interesting to watch.
Your pants look great.
Thank you
Thanks so much... and thank you for watching!
This has been good to follow. I am definitely giving it a go. I like the fit of your pants.
Happy to hear, and thanks so much!
Thankyou, your video is such a help and your pants look great...
Thanks so much... and thank you for watching!
My waist is a couple of dress sizes bigger than my hips, and I’ve always struggled with trousers. I wondered if TDCO would help & you talking about your measurements/shape really encourages me ❤
Particularly about pulling trousers on/off. That’s my standard thing and I’m constantly fighting gravity 😅
Happy to hear! Pick the waist size for the side seam and your full hip size for the CB/Inseam... Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns On my current pants pattern, size 16 fits my waist and size 10 fits my hips. With such a disparity, I'm going to try your suggestion: size 16 for side seam and size 10 for inseam.
Thanks so much for this series. I have completed my TDCO one-legged toile using the ITF pattern from Peppermint and interestingly I had to REMOVE 1.5 inches from the front and back waistline (from CF to side to CB) to shorten the crotch seam! Just surprised that I had to remove length from the original pattern. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this. Anyway, good luck to me when I start sewing the wearable version later today! And thank you for sharing your knowledge. I enjoyed seeing your walk of pride!
My pleasure, I'm having a ball working with this pants fitting method. It is interesting what happens at the waistline. For me, I did not need to change the back rise at all... but I lengthened the front rise 1 1/4"... Hope your wearable pair come out amazing!
Whoa, Babe you nailed the science! No Faucci Ouchies!!!!! So glad I'm catching up!
Question, As long as the waist is no stable, could you mix stretch into the body
of the pant, just for a softer drape???
Just loving your lectures on this unique fitting!
You rock Jen! XOX!
Thanks so much! ...I'm glad your catching up too :) You can work with whatever fabric the pattern recommends. If you're working with a knit pant pattern, you can make a substantial stretch waistband. The key is that it needs to be fitting so it stays put and supports the one leg muslin as you work on fitting it. Hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns You always help!
After I asked the question about mixing stretch with a stable waistband, I thought about the Stable Roll you were showing. Nothing says we can't upholster the stable roll with the stretch fabric.
Anyway, I'm loving the Top Down/Center Out idea and I am sure it will work out marvelously. I was so happy to see you excited about a new method Jen. That's what got me excited!
Keep your eyes open!
Always! XOX
Thanks so much for this very clear and informative series of videos. I am going to download the pattern and give it a try. I would love to see how you would fit a pair of elastic waist pants with this method. Also, if you know the weight of the denim (oz per yard?) it would be good to know, it drapes very nicely. The finished pants look very nice.
Thanks! ...and I'm definitely going to share how this method works with my Knit Pull On Pants, stay tuned for that. The denim I used to make my Peppermint Wide Leg Pants was a lighter weight (7 oz) denim. It did have a tiny amount of stretch, but it's not being asked to stretch anywhere!
Thanks, many good types and suggestions! My only critique is the length. Longer pant legs are more flattering on all body types. The shorter the person, the wider the pant leg the shorter and heavier you look.
I agree with your proportion is important! You need the hem to hover above the floor to make sure it's parallel to the floor while fitting... Then you can lengthen the hem after fitting the pattern. Thanks for fitting along with me
Very nice thank you. Love the pants. Do you do tutoring on man pants?
Yes I do! I just finished working with a man to fit his jeans! Here's a link to my private zoom pants fitting. During the first session, we would adjust a pant sloper or jean pattern to your measurements. jsterndesigns.com/product/custom-pants-fitting/ You can email me if you have more questions at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
I'm intrigued by this method, although I don't understand it. Where do I find printed instructions?
The original article was published in the Spring 2022 issue of Threads Magazine. I'm guessing your local library may have a copy... Or you can go to Threads Magazine online and sign up for their free trial to their online content. (You may end up keeping it, there's so much quality sewing content on their website.) Also, I'm teaching a step-by-step class to teach this method for Stitches at Home in October. I have received permission to provide the Threads Article as a hand out for students in class. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
Here's a link to Threads website to check out their online "Threads Insider" free trial subscribe.threadsmagazine.com/loading.do?pk=W3050PPC&gclid=CjwKCAjw4JWZBhApEiwAtJUN0Cr6n9Vgn4Q4ExtelxPCgUvrbm2jnmAZ6y4QmAEoldmCa00_oFCrUxoC-EwQAvD_BwE&omedasite=THR_trial
I really like the pattern and Holly came out those are great for walking on the beach too… We could add length of them though we want it right if I wanted it to go further down past my ankles … They’re kind of right now at like between regular pants and capris like a little above Highwater which is cute but not what I would want to do in the winter so I could add length you would you be able to do a video on how to add length without compromising the shape of the pattern
:) That's an excellent topic, I'll add it to my list of upcoming tutorials! Thanks for watching
They look and move great! If I manage to get this fit on a pair of pants I will clone the heck out of them. I have recently had to take in the back inseam on a pair of wide leg linen pants which I made last fall with a little jacket for a faux boiler suit. I loved them but due to surgery (successful) I have lost mass and tone in my butt and thighs and it's slower to come back than my waistline, so I acted in desperation. I may have a bit of a shapeless butt, but the legs hang great. When using the TDCO method, when would I take in the back legs? Or, to respect the integrity of the pattern should I look for another pattern? I think the width at the hem is fine.
Thanks! (sorry for the delayed response!) The beauty of this method is that you can try different things with the same one leg muslin. I'm assuming you've added extra seam allowance along the side seam. Instead of sewing them on the original stitching line, sew the side seam 1/2" from the edge. This will give you ease to play with front and back. After establishing the CF/CB waistline, inseam and hem, fit the back and front legs separately along the side seam.. You can take in the back the amount you need and the front the amount you need... You don't have to adjust them equally :) Hope this helps!
Thank you for this video! I've been struggling with crotch curves for a year and feel hopeful about the TDCO approach! I'm excited about giving this a go! My question is about the waistband. The waistband you used for the toile looked a bit wider than the finished waistband on the completed pants. It seems like that would alter the fit... I think. Also, if I want a wider waistband on this pattern, could I just start with what I want at toile stage and continue on from there? Thanks!
:) I'm so excited you're going to try TDCO! ...The Fitting Waistband can be any width because the pants hang from the bottom half inch. One reason to make the waistband more narrow is for fitting comfort. Some body shapes are curvy and do not have a space around that will accommodate a wider waistband. I recently had one of my private pants fitting students trim 1/2" off the top of her fitting waistband because it wasn't sitting against her body comfortably. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me.
Your top down center out videos are great. Starting with the waistband haas been a game changer. But I haven't found any discussion of the shape of the inseam curve where it meets the crotch point. This must also affect the fit of the pants, but is an area that isn't covered by the waistline or side seams. Can you give some perspective?
;) thanks! Sometimes the inseam curve can cause the hem at the inseam to look like it’s flared …check this tutorial out How to Fix a Hinge in the Inseam When Extending the Crotch
ruclips.net/video/OGJgSiHfCVg/видео.html
Thank you for sharing this method it’s very helpful. Your pants look very stylish , the fit is perfect . Great idea to use linen ( I was wondering which fabric to use )we are going in to summer so I will use that. Could I ask, I nearly always have to shorten my pants approximately 3 -4 inches, should I just turn them up for fitting or cut the toile to my size ? Thank you for any advice, Cheers, Bridget
I'm so excited that you're going to try this method! I would adjust the length of the leg to fit you. That way you won't have lots of excess fabric hanging at the hem. Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you for your advice Jen , much appreciated!
HiJ. Can I ask u a question. I just learned how to make a pants pattern.BUT not yet make a sample to see how it fits. I want to know after cutting the pattern and when I lay it on the fabric do I lay the pants pattern front and back piece with the crotchs facing each other or do I have to have them facing outwards?? meaning one crouch facing to the left and the other crutch to the right?
That's a great question. As long as the crotch extensions are going in the opposite direction... Either pointing to each other or pointing away from each other you will cut a front and back that go together to make a leg! I'm excited for you!! Let me know how it's going :)
@@JSternDesigns so I have to make sure my fabric is right sides together RIGHT?
Is the hem, aka horizontal balance line from the original pattern or established during fitting? When you do TDCO with your Happy Pants will you use the hip style you normally use? You need elbow length oven mitts. Is the link to Threads an affiliate link?
Good questions! If the hem is designed to be parallel to the floor… baste the hem allowance in place and the first step is to adjust the CF/CB waistline so that the inseam is hanging straight and the hem is parallel to the floor. Fitting with the Happy Pants Pattern… First establish the back waist dart and sew it in. Then use the hem as your horizontal balance line. Not an affiliate link to Threads… I just love them 💓… and I was thinking the same thing… I need longer oven mitts when I’m baking sourdough bread… my Dutch Oven is so heavy!
I don't wear pants because of all the fit issues. After Christmas maybe I will try this method. I have a big butt and big thighs. So rtw pants pull at the outside seam at the thighs. Also sometimes when I sit they are tight over the knee cap, I don't know why. I am also knock kneed.
:) Pants are my passion!!! I think you should give it a try! Usually if your pants feel snug at the knees when you bend them it's because the crotch curve is too low in the front! I'm looking forward to you trying to make pants!
Thanks for another great video, I'm loving this series. I tried this method yesterday and found that the crutch curve was still a little snug for me - I will still getting a wedgie - any suggestions thanks
My Pleasure! Try lowering the CB waistline a little bit to put a little more length back! Thanks for fitting along with me
Will this method work for generous and low hanging buttocks and small waist (curvy figure) ? Or do you suggest scooping the back crotch on the pattern used before top down fitting? Meaning: Will the waistband height adjustments still allow for straight grain requirements using hem placement or will the adjustment of crotch curve still also be necessary on this type of figure?
I have been working with my private pants fitting students using this method. Initially I was tempted to start by adjusting the pattern pieces for the student's figure (like I've been doing for years). This worked ok... But what worked better was understanding what the pattern could deliver without changing the shape of it. ...Picking a starting size that agrees with your figure and following the steps to add length at the waistline and width at the side seam worked better. You can choose different sizes based on what's happening along your inner thigh and what your full hip measurement is. I'm teaching a step-by-step class to share this pants fitting method for Stitches at Home in October. Here's a link to the class page if you're interested in checking that out. It's going to be a detailed 8 hour class so you'll have all the time you need to really get the hang of it! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-at-home-october-2022/new-to-stitches-at-home-october-2022/top-down-center-out-method-for-fitting-pants/
I'm keen to try TDCO as 'traditional' pants fitting methods don't work for me. My question is this - patterns are slways too long from the waist to crotch seam for me, how would I correct that, especially adding the extra length at the top waist?
I think it's important to be "body aware". If you know you always have too much vertical length in the rise... take a quick measurement of the front and back rise and compare it to your body measurements. If the pattern already has some extra length... Only add enough above the waistline so you have 2" extra if you're a smaller size 0-12 and 4" if you're a size 14 or larger. I also did a tutorial showing how to adjust what you add if you have a tilted waistline. Here's a link to this tutorial in case you'd like to check it out. ruclips.net/video/ZPQ9B3euk60/видео.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Would this method work to men any type of bottoms too?
TDCO is a wonderful method to balance the vertical length of the front/back legs... If you're working on wide leg trousers, you can use this method to fit your pants. If you're working on a close fitting style, the shape of the crotch does need to agree with your body shape. (I really tried to fit any pattern to any shape) ,,,the result was that I could... until the crotch curve and legs started to touch the body... Then I had to fit the crotch after using TDCO to balance the leg. Check out this video for a details: ruclips.net/video/WflHfYM3jcs/видео.html
If you have a clinder shape ,narrow from front straight on and your depth is deeper than average. Does this method work? Adding to the top only would not help me. I have drafted a trousers block and my crotch depth is long and works very well to be able to walk. I have never fitted standard ready to wear trousers because of this issue.
:) Yes, you can use this method! Maybe add a little extra to your side seams so you have room to let them out if you need. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Just used this method for some shorts with 4 pleats in the front. Used Lutterloh to draft pattern as is, because they seem to draft the right angle and longer raise on the back for my size. Picked size by hip measurement using the pleats to increase or decrease at the waist. Only change I had to make is to increase approx 1 inch at the centre back waist, decrease to nothing on the centre front (Big4 I need to add at least 3 inches to the back). Scooped out the back crotch and it was done . Thank you