Love these videos. I'm about an hour west of you in Terre Haute and I have a 68 that I've had since 85. I'm about to put a bunch of metal on, so these videos will hopefully make life a lot easier. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks buddy. The jig was an experiment and will now say worth every minute to assemble it. Assembly time and peace of mind that the rails and floor are configured right totally worth it, plus I plan to use it several more times, huge time saver.
I’m a bit late to the party but just wanted to say this video is great. I have a 71 nova needing a full floor, trunk and frame rails. The rails had me a bit nervous, but your idea is fantastic and gave me some confidence! Thanks for sharing!
I am super happy with it too. Totally worth the time to build it. I see myself and anyone else using it a lot. I really thought I would be fighting the rails more then I did even with the jig but went right into place. I had issues 4 years ago when I built the Transmaroado with the drivers side rail not fitting good, it was a nightmare that I didn’t want to relive.
You really are a master when it comes to these 1st gen Firebirds. It's amazing how well you explain every part of the process in such a clear way...I guess what I'm saying is you make a great teacher. Thank you as always for sharing you're knowledge. In regards to replacing the bricks, maybe something like those lightweight screw jacks that are used for campers. Possibly weld four of those to each bottom corner of your jig to help with evening out and balancing the height. They're pretty lightweight so it wouldn't add too much more to the over-all weight of the jig. Possibly even use those little 3 wheel dollies under them to move it into place, then remove them when you get it close to where you need it to be. Sorry to be long-winded but I had a thought and wanted to share.
Wow thanks. At one time in my life I wanted to be a teacher, just never figured out what subject matter to instruct so maybe I have found it. You might be onto something with those jacks and some small casters. It was a bit wonky getting it up into place, mostly because Brian and Luis where not much I help I feel. Lol
Seriously, thank you for doing this series! I have a 69 that needs floor pans, trunk pan and frame rails and watching this is giving me hope and confidence! I just need to figure out how to fab up one of those frame rail jigs lol
You are welcome, crazy as it sounds I enjoy the metal working part of the build. The rails Can be done without a jig did many that way just seems to take a little longer. How close to Indy are you? You can borrow mine, heck bring the rails and trunk pan I will help you assemble it. Before you head back.
@@VinylVillageGarage I’m in St. Louis MO, so not super far. I’m definitely going to get in contact with you as soon as I actually get parts (and can get a vacation LOL)!
Thanks. I have had my butt handed to me over the years. The secret to making those mistakes a success is learn from it and improve. I feel that way it wasn’t really a mistake but training for the next go round.
Thank GOD my 68 / 400 Convert 4 sp has always been garaged! Oh, it might have a few pin holes in common places but nothing a wire feed welder would cure. Now my 68 Camaro, that's a different story. Poor car, been rode hard and put away wet all it's northern life, even was drove on the beach of Daytona Fl. ( a HUGE no no !). See back in the day these cars were nothing, just another car. Nobody expected them to be around over 50 years so they were throw aways on every used car lot ( can't believe I said that !) We use to find them rust free with a blown power train for under $400.00 with a title. Fact was I bought my red & white straight rust free 68 matching numbers Convert 4 sp 400 car in 1976 with 31,000 miles for $850.00 and it sat in the want ad's for weeks for sale with no takers ( everybody wanted a GTO ! ) So watching you go through all this is like ----- WOW ! crazy, but bottom line today there is nothing better, so we got to do what we got to do.
Drove it on the beach!!! 20 Lashes for you, lol. Just kidding like you said they where just a car that was common and disposable. They where designed to Barley live 5 years so to think 50 years later anything is left is a bit of a miracle. I enjoy rescuing these rusty relics and driving the heck out of them. Probably skip the beach 😉 but other then that anywhere anytime.
@@VinylVillageGarage Nah, no more for me, everybody try's to steal mine any time I go anywhere, it's just not safe to take them anywhere as you walk back out, poof gone, there now one of the most sought after stolen cars. Plus both of mine are the real deals, not a clone 68RS/SS & 68 400 x 4sp convert . Then add if I hit rain, I am always under a overpass waiting. But when I do drive them , I am always sideways in second, no mercy lol . No, not me on the beach, MY DAD! ( the fool ) He also gave up the original number matching steel forged crank 327 for a mutt 77 /350 when the 327 blew a head gasket while I was out of state. I didn't speak to him for over a year after that. He said he could not understand why I was SO pissed off over a OLD MOTOR ! The reason was simple, it only needed a head gasket for that forged crank number matching 327. I am STILL hot about that! and he's been dead for years ! That was a standard bore 327. If I would have it today, I picked up a NOS NEW 283 forged crank for it. A 283 crank in a 327 is a , ( drum roll please ) screamin 302 ! Yes, I am on the hurt for anther standard bore 327 block. THAT"S NOT THE POINT ! He gave up the factory 327 for a 12 dollar blown head gasket. No, I am not happy . lol .
Then it is your dad must be punished for setting the awful example of driving on the beach. Heck back in the day I would have done the same thing, my first car cut across a couple corn fields just for fun so I get it. My cars where built to be driven. They aren’t rare from the factory I might feel differently if I owned a real trans am or ram air bird. Not to mention if someone stole one of my cars it’s insured I would definitely miss it but have funding to do it all over.
@@VinylVillageGarage why yes it is… I guess us new gen tin knockers are the last of a kind of people! We will seek out savable muscle cars and destroy the rust where ever it might hide
@@jmpsavescars I see your camaro has just a bit of weight reduction, definitely savable. I prefer buying cars that way because you know what your getting and not paid a fortune for it and have to replace all that metal anyway.
Dang! Makin' me feel bad! My motorcycle jack would have worked great for that. Also, I live on the southeast side of Indy, but being retired I could lend a hand on occasion. Just send a note.
Yup I could definitely see that working, much better then my block head friends. Lol Southwest side is super close. I say anytime you are interested it would be cool to have some company playing cars.
You know I hadn’t yet. Cost of materials and labor might be spendy for a one time use. Bit of a person was doing several definitely very useful tool. I will see what it costs to build as a collapsible unit.
@@VinylVillageGarage that would be great. If I end up rebuilding my Firebird I may have to make the drive from Mid-Michigan to Indiana. But I may not be opposed to buying a jig either. Thanks again you've really got some great explanatory videos.
So, I have a 69 that I need to replace the floor pan, trunk pan and the rear frame rails. My question is, which one should I do first? What would be the best angle of approach? I’m buying a trunk pan that has the frame rails already attached if that info helps at all. Thanks for all you do with this very informative series!
If going that route and I would do the same. I would do the main floor pan first. Then the rear section assembly. Take lots of measurements and keep the car level to the shop floor as you go. In my mind i only remove the area I am working on and leave as much as possible still intact as I go. With the idea of what’s left holds the car body in place and shape as I go because I don’t use a body jig at this point. I have seen the aftermath of removing too much and almost impossible to get it back into shape. If it’s a convertible leave the door on the car and continue to monitor door gaps as you cut and weld To Insure the body hasn’t shifted
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you! It’s not a convertible so I should be good on that, and the entire floor needs to be redone aside from the tunnel in the center. Maybe it would be smarter to do the two sides independent from each other instead of trying to one shot the whole piece? Or should I just go for it and do the whole thing in one piece?
Wish I would have seen the video before I started. I have my entire rear reassembled and now need to put the frame rails in. Do I need a jig like that?? I live near Dayton Ohio. More than happy to rent it from you. Just wondering though if you have any suggestions that maybe easier with the floor pan already welded in place?
If the floor pan and trunk floor is already installed the jig won’t do much. The thing to do is just set your spacing from left and right rails. I would also suggest installing the front spring mounts loosely to ensure the bolts line up when you do final install on the leaf springs. Other then that just keep the frame rails parallel and equally spaced. Then if it’s a 68 you will also have to modify and shorten the frame rails too.
I’m replacing the trunk pan for a 1980 Camaro. I live in Fort Wayne Indiana area…any chance I could borrow your jig? would really appreciate any insights
I made my rail jig from a good car as a template so I don’t have measurements unfortunately, the even worse part is I let someone borrow it and it got lost in shipping. I am gathering the materials to make a new one the next time i have a good car to make it from.
I made my rail jig from a good car as a template so I don’t have measurements unfortunately, the even worse part is I let someone borrow it and it got lost in shipping. I am gathering the materials to make a new one the next time i have a good car to make it from.
Menards or Lowes when I bought them. Believe it or not I found a bag with 5,000 or so screws in our scrap metal Bin at work! It is my favorite store lol. I get all kinds of goodies out of it to build with.
This is an awesome video. Its been so hard to find any vids/pics when it comes to replacing the rear frame rails and such. I need to replace the rear frames rails and trunk pan on my 1981 pontiac firebird as they are COMPLETELY rusted out. I can poke through the frame rail with a screwdriver. QUESTION 1: Would this process be the same/similar with a 1981 pontiac firebird? Obviosly the parts would be different. QUESTION 2: What do the rear frame rails bolt to exactly? QUESTION 3: do the leaf springs connect to the rear frame rails? Thanks. I am new to this and just trying to understand what I have to do.
Thanks I hope this i video helps, it applies to just about any unibody car. Question 1 for the most part you can use the exact technique. The goal is to keep things level and equally spaced. Question 2 the frame rails are spot welded to the trunk floor, floor under rear seat and the inner tail panel. You will have to get effective at welding to properly install them. Question 3. Yes the leaf spring attaches to the frame rails on both ends. Keep this in mind. Nobody makes reproduction rear frame rails for 74-81 fbody cars so to replace them you will need to find a good set of used ones. I have been experimenting with the 1970-1973 rails as a possible repair I believe with some modifications they might work, I can’t promise that yet. Good luck on your project!
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for the reply. This is SO helpful. This is my first car I have ever worked on so everything is new to me. (If this is okay with you) Can I send you some pics of how fucked up my frame rails/torque box are? It would be game changing to here the opinion of someone with experience regarding how they would handle my project and fix it. Thanks. if you’re busy and don’t have the time to do that I totally understand as well.
So was U kidding about using the jig? Cause if not it would totally be cool If was to bring my pan and rails to you just to line it up and get it placed I can through it up when I get home I’m like 35 mins from you. I was gonna just keep the ones I had but I climbed underneath today and it’s a no go by the looks of it it sat with out a rear end for so long they sagged.
I have decided after the rail jig 1.0 had to be replaced with 2.0 because it didn’t get returned I will no longer lend it out. Seeing how you are local I have no objection of you stopping by the VVG and setting up your rails and pan on it.
@@VinylVillageGarage Well dang I’m sorry to here that. I know that’s no fun but definitely glad you got you another one made. Considering in the work you do it’s convenient and a time saver, and awesome yeah I would just be setting and lining I have a couple of crazy tools that could help me get it up in there and if not I will just have to get some friends to come give me some labor 🤣
@@VinylVillageGarage I used the same full trunk as you have in the video. “Trunk floor reinforcement” is the term I should have used. If only we had a line to Taiwan, they could use an expert to help!! Keep grinding buddy & the good work
Wish I had them, it was assembled directly onto a good original car so I knew it was as close to factory as possible, it worked great the few times I used it. Then it went missing in shipping to Maryland, unfortunately it is gone and I plan to make another when the opportunity arrives and this time I will see about getting dimensions.
That frame rail jig is fantastic! Congratulations on the design and building of it.
It was a huge time saver for sure. What used to take me 3-4 hours of rolling around on the floor, now I can get it done in about an hour.
Wow! This is really impressive!!!
Thank you so much!
The brick and. Jack brother come in handy it look good
Yup I do love my bricks!
Love these videos. I'm about an hour west of you in Terre Haute and I have a 68 that I've had since 85. I'm about to put a bunch of metal on, so these videos will hopefully make life a lot easier. Thanks for sharing.
That is awesome! Had that car for quite a few years. Good luck on your journey and keep me posted on the build too.
@@VinylVillageGarage It's my first car, and it will be the last to go when that time comes. Thanks again for the videos.
The 1st gen jig was available and I have the book and build jig for sale.
You got some skills man. 😎👍
Much appreciated, I learned from many failed attempts wanted to share those experiences and how I get it done
Great video! You make replacing a trunk floor and frame rails look super easy and the frame rail jig is an awesome tool. Great work sir.
Thanks buddy. The jig was an experiment and will now say worth every minute to assemble it. Assembly time and peace of mind that the rails and floor are configured right totally worth it, plus I plan to use it several more times, huge time saver.
I’m a bit late to the party but just wanted to say this video is great. I have a 71 nova needing a full floor, trunk and frame rails. The rails had me a bit nervous, but your idea is fantastic and gave me some confidence! Thanks for sharing!
Right on glad to help. The nova is super close to the f-bodies. Good luck on your build.
That jig really made a difference in time! Keep up the great content and I'm always looking forward to the next video!
I am super happy with it too. Totally worth the time to build it. I see myself and anyone else using it a lot. I really thought I would be fighting the rails more then I did even with the jig but went right into place. I had issues 4 years ago when I built the Transmaroado with the drivers side rail not fitting good, it was a nightmare that I didn’t want to relive.
Incedingly, your videos are outstanding.
Thanks, just playing cars and bringing you along for the journey
You really are a master when it comes to these 1st gen Firebirds. It's amazing how well you explain every part of the process in such a clear way...I guess what I'm saying is you make a great teacher. Thank you as always for sharing you're knowledge. In regards to replacing the bricks, maybe something like those lightweight screw jacks that are used for campers. Possibly weld four of those to each bottom corner of your jig to help with evening out and balancing the height. They're pretty lightweight so it wouldn't add too much more to the over-all weight of the jig. Possibly even use those little 3 wheel dollies under them to move it into place, then remove them when you get it close to where you need it to be. Sorry to be long-winded but I had a thought and wanted to share.
Wow thanks. At one time in my life I wanted to be a teacher, just never figured out what subject matter to instruct so maybe I have found it.
You might be onto something with those jacks and some small casters. It was a bit wonky getting it up into place, mostly because Brian and Luis where not much I help I feel. Lol
Seriously, thank you for doing this series! I have a 69 that needs floor pans, trunk pan and frame rails and watching this is giving me hope and confidence! I just need to figure out how to fab up one of those frame rail jigs lol
You are welcome, crazy as it sounds I enjoy the metal working part of the build. The rails Can be done without a jig did many that way just seems to take a little longer. How close to Indy are you? You can borrow mine, heck bring the rails and trunk pan I will help you assemble it. Before you head back.
@@VinylVillageGarage I’m in St. Louis MO, so not super far. I’m definitely going to get in contact with you as soon as I actually get parts (and can get a vacation LOL)!
Sounds like a great vacation. Keep me posted.
The jig worked out very well. 💪🏼
Yea sir. Made short work of this part of the process and worth the time to build it.
You are too kind. Keep up the good work!
Thanks! I enjoy what i do. Keeping it fun is the key
nice work!! That frame jig worked awesome.
Yeah I really wish I made one up years ago, I see myself using it multiple more times. Huge time saver
Wow, great work
Thanks!
Well done, making it look easy again
Thanks. I have had my butt handed to me over the years. The secret to making those mistakes a success is learn from it and improve. I feel that way it wasn’t really a mistake but training for the next go round.
I understand completely, your videos help folks reduce a lot of costly mistakes
Exactly my plan!! if we can provide some insight or guidance to aid in rescuing these cars imagine how many can be saved from the grave.
@@VinylVillageGarage great videos for folks , really appreciate all of them , great information
Thanks!
Nice plan. 🍻
Thanks, so far so good.
Lol 😆 you are a funny guy brick head what a great job 👏 you make it look so so easy I wish I had that jig for when I was doing mine
It’s yours to borrow anytime you want.
Thank GOD my 68 / 400 Convert 4 sp has always been garaged! Oh, it might have a few pin holes in common places but nothing a wire feed welder would cure. Now my 68 Camaro, that's a different story. Poor car, been rode hard and put away wet all it's northern life, even was drove on the beach of Daytona Fl. ( a HUGE no no !). See back in the day these cars were nothing, just another car. Nobody expected them to be around over 50 years so they were throw aways on every used car lot ( can't believe I said that !) We use to find them rust free with a blown power train for under $400.00 with a title. Fact was I bought my red & white straight rust free 68 matching numbers Convert 4 sp 400 car in 1976 with 31,000 miles for $850.00 and it sat in the want ad's for weeks for sale with no takers ( everybody wanted a GTO ! ) So watching you go through all this is like ----- WOW ! crazy, but bottom line today there is nothing better, so we got to do what we got to do.
Drove it on the beach!!! 20
Lashes for you, lol. Just kidding like you said they where just a car that was common and disposable. They where designed to
Barley live 5 years so to think 50 years later anything is left is a bit of a miracle. I enjoy rescuing these rusty relics and driving the heck out of them. Probably skip the beach 😉 but other then that anywhere anytime.
@@VinylVillageGarage Nah, no more for me, everybody try's to steal mine any time I go anywhere, it's just not safe to take them anywhere as you walk back out, poof gone, there now one of the most sought after stolen cars. Plus both of mine are the real deals, not a clone 68RS/SS & 68 400 x 4sp convert . Then add if I hit rain, I am always under a overpass waiting. But when I do drive them , I am always sideways in second, no mercy lol .
No, not me on the beach, MY DAD! ( the fool ) He also gave up the original number matching steel forged crank 327 for a mutt 77 /350 when the 327 blew a head gasket while I was out of state. I didn't speak to him for over a year after that. He said he could not understand why I was SO pissed off over a OLD MOTOR ! The reason was simple, it only needed a head gasket for that forged crank number matching 327. I am STILL hot about that! and he's been dead for years ! That was a standard bore 327. If I would have it today, I picked up a NOS NEW 283 forged crank for it. A 283 crank in a 327 is a , ( drum roll please ) screamin 302 ! Yes, I am on the hurt for anther standard bore 327 block. THAT"S NOT THE POINT ! He gave up the factory 327 for a 12 dollar blown head gasket. No, I am not happy . lol .
Then it is your dad must be punished for setting the awful example of driving on the beach. Heck back in the day I would have done the same thing, my first car cut across a couple corn fields just for fun so I get it.
My cars where built to be driven. They aren’t rare from the factory I might feel differently if I owned a real trans am or ram air bird. Not to mention if someone stole one of my cars it’s insured I would definitely miss it but have funding to do it all over.
A floor jack jacking a floor. This is the way
Is that a madalorian reference 🤔🤣
@@VinylVillageGarage why yes it is… I guess us new gen tin knockers are the last of a kind of people! We will seek out savable muscle cars and destroy the rust where ever it might hide
Indeed not many would embark on bringing rust heaps back, I find it to be fun and challenging not to mention when done very rewarding.
@@VinylVillageGarage im glad to have come across your channel we are fisher body
@@jmpsavescars I see your camaro has just a bit of weight reduction, definitely savable. I prefer buying cars that way because you know what your getting and not paid a fortune for it and have to replace all that metal anyway.
Dang! Makin' me feel bad! My motorcycle jack would have worked great for that. Also, I live on the southeast side of Indy, but being retired I could lend a hand on occasion. Just send a note.
Yup I could definitely see that working, much better then my block head friends. Lol
Southwest side is super close. I say anytime you are interested it would be cool to have some company playing cars.
Silly question... have you ever thought about making a bolt together version of the jig and selling them?
You know I hadn’t yet. Cost of materials and labor might be spendy for a one time use. Bit of a person was doing several definitely very useful tool. I will see what it costs to build as a collapsible unit.
@@VinylVillageGarage that would be great. If I end up rebuilding my Firebird I may have to make the drive from Mid-Michigan to Indiana. But I may not be opposed to buying a jig either. Thanks again you've really got some great explanatory videos.
So, I have a 69 that I need to replace the floor pan, trunk pan and the rear frame rails. My question is, which one should I do first? What would be the best angle of approach? I’m buying a trunk pan that has the frame rails already attached if that info helps at all. Thanks for all you do with this very informative series!
If going that route and I would do the same. I would do the main floor pan first. Then the rear section assembly. Take lots of measurements and keep the car level to the shop floor as you go. In my mind i only remove the area I am working on and leave as much as possible still intact as I go. With the idea of what’s left holds the car body in place and shape as I go because I don’t use a body jig at this point. I have seen the aftermath of removing too much and almost impossible to get it back into shape. If it’s a convertible leave the door on the car and continue to monitor door gaps as you cut and weld To Insure the body hasn’t shifted
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you! It’s not a convertible so I should be good on that, and the entire floor needs to be redone aside from the tunnel in the center. Maybe it would be smarter to do the two sides independent from each other instead of trying to one shot the whole piece? Or should I just go for it and do the whole thing in one piece?
From my experience you would have less welding and cleaner results with one pice floor pan.
@@VinylVillageGarage Thanks again for the help!
Anytime
Wish I would have seen the video before I started. I have my entire rear reassembled and now need to put the frame rails in. Do I need a jig like that?? I live near Dayton Ohio. More than happy to rent it from you. Just wondering though if you have any suggestions that maybe easier with the floor pan already welded in place?
If the floor pan and trunk floor is already installed the jig won’t do much. The thing to do is just set your spacing from left and right rails. I would also suggest installing the front spring mounts loosely to ensure the bolts line up when you do final install on the leaf springs. Other then that just keep the frame rails parallel and equally spaced. Then if it’s a 68 you will also have to modify and shorten the frame rails too.
Got it! As always thanks for the reply and the videos. Never would have tried this project without your videos
I’m replacing the trunk pan for a 1980 Camaro. I live in Fort Wayne Indiana area…any chance I could borrow your jig? would really appreciate any insights
The jig i had
Was for 1967-69 and unfortunately it got lost i let someone borrow it and it disappeared.
How about rigging up four bottle jacks and four casters on the corners of the jig. Then you can slide the jig under the car and jack up each corner.
Heck ya great idea, that will give it full adjustability and great mobility. I will see what I can get for small bottle jacks
Great work my friend, can you supply me with the info on getting a jig for my trunk & frame rail replacement ?? thanks very much
I made my rail jig from a good car as a template so I don’t have measurements unfortunately, the even worse part is I let someone borrow it and it got lost in shipping. I am gathering the materials to make a new one the next time i have a good car to make it from.
I made my rail jig from a good car as a template so I don’t have measurements unfortunately, the even worse part is I let someone borrow it and it got lost in shipping. I am gathering the materials to make a new one the next time i have a good car to make it from.
im in dayton ohio i need to come to you and have you do a pan and frame rails on my 68 bird when i do it
Wish my full time job was doing just that driving around and fixing cars wouldn’t that be something
did you pre drill the holes in the frame rail before driving the screws in? That frame rail metal is thick!
Nope those self tappers go right thru the rails
@@VinylVillageGarage wow. Wound have never believed it. Where do you purchase your self tappers?
Menards or Lowes when I bought them. Believe it or not I found a bag with 5,000 or so screws in our scrap metal
Bin at work! It is my favorite store lol. I get all kinds of goodies out of it to build with.
Brother!👊🏻
Thanks buddy, making some
Good progress hope
To have all the body work done by this winter.
This is an awesome video. Its been so hard to find any vids/pics when it comes to replacing the rear frame rails and such.
I need to replace the rear frames rails and trunk pan on my 1981 pontiac firebird as they are COMPLETELY rusted out. I can poke through the frame rail with a screwdriver.
QUESTION 1: Would this process be the same/similar with a 1981 pontiac firebird? Obviosly the parts would be different.
QUESTION 2: What do the rear frame rails bolt to exactly?
QUESTION 3: do the leaf springs connect to the rear frame rails?
Thanks. I am new to this and just trying to understand what I have to do.
Thanks I hope this i video helps, it applies to just about any unibody car. Question 1 for the most part you can use the exact technique. The goal is to keep things level and equally spaced. Question 2 the frame rails are spot welded to the trunk floor, floor under rear seat and the inner tail panel. You will have to get effective at welding to properly install them. Question 3. Yes the leaf spring attaches to the frame rails on both ends.
Keep this in mind. Nobody makes reproduction rear frame rails for 74-81 fbody cars so to replace them you will need to find a good set of used ones. I have been experimenting with the 1970-1973 rails as a possible repair I believe with some modifications they might work, I can’t promise that yet. Good luck on your project!
@@VinylVillageGarage thank you for the reply. This is SO helpful. This is my first car I have ever worked on so everything is new to me.
(If this is okay with you) Can I send you some pics of how fucked up my frame rails/torque box are? It would be game changing to here the opinion of someone with experience regarding how they would handle my project and fix it. Thanks. if you’re busy and don’t have the time to do that I totally understand as well.
Definitely send them my way. I would see what you have to work with.
Send it to vinylvillagegarage@gmail.com
@@VinylVillageGarage Hello I emailed you from my pontiac firebird account
What brand of replacement metal do you use?
Mostly AMD but I have good luck with all of them for the most part.
You can use a ratchet strap on each side and pull it up
Yes I use the heck out of ratchet straps, I have a drawer full of different sizes.
So was U kidding about using the jig? Cause if not it would totally be cool If was to bring my pan and rails to you just to line it up and get it placed I can through it up when I get home I’m like 35 mins from you. I was gonna just keep the ones I had but I climbed underneath today and it’s a no go by the looks of it it sat with out a rear end for so long they sagged.
I have decided after the rail jig 1.0 had to be replaced with 2.0 because it didn’t get returned I will no longer lend it out. Seeing how you are local I have no objection of you stopping by the VVG and setting up your rails and pan on it.
@@VinylVillageGarage Well dang I’m sorry to here that. I know that’s no fun but definitely glad you got you another one made. Considering in the work you do it’s convenient and a time saver, and awesome yeah I would just be setting and lining I have a couple of crazy tools that could help me get it up in there and if not I will just have to get some friends to come give me some labor 🤣
What diameter mig wire do you use? Thanks
I use .030 for every thing only because that how I learned to do it. 023 is more ideal for sheet metal and easier to control the heat.
Looking to jig a set of rails…
How close to Indianapolis are you.
@16:35 You need to knock the lock tab in on your jack stand.
Lol. You don’t miss a thing.
@@VinylVillageGarage This was one of your better videos.
Thanks, still a work in progress doing videos. Appreciate your feedback. I hope to keep getting better
I had the same problem, the tank straps are welded in an inch or so too far forward!!!!!! I removed mine and re-did-it 😢
Wow an inch is excessive. I suppose That is why it’s recommended to test fit all
Panels prior to final installation.
@@VinylVillageGarage I used the same full trunk as you have in the video. “Trunk floor reinforcement” is the term I should have used. If only we had a line to Taiwan, they could use an expert to help!! Keep grinding buddy & the good work
I live in Muncie can I use that jeg
I have to make new one. I loaned it out and it got lost in shipping somehow 🙁
OK thanks tho
Have you had a chance to make another jig for frame rails yet ?
Send me the plans for the gram rail jeg
Wish I had them, it was assembled directly onto a good original car so I knew it was as close to factory as possible, it worked great the few times I used it. Then it went missing in shipping to Maryland, unfortunately it is gone and I plan to make another when the opportunity arrives and this time I will see about getting dimensions.
Luis is in Pa? Hmmmm…
Yup I plan to actually go visit him real soon.
Working with heavy sharp steel in flip-flops. Stupid...PERIOD!
Thanks