I have been following you since your first video. I'm retired and have about the same machines as you have. I have really learned a lot from you. Keep up the great work.
Good Idea. I was going to bore out the worn out half nut threads just enough to remove just the threads. Then bronze braze the half nuts and set up a fixture on the lathe to thread them but it's complicated. It seems I'm better off redesigning the half nuts so that threaded inserts can be easily replaced without gluing them together. I wish I had the original dimensions to these half nuts. It would really help.
This is such an awesome idea. Could you have made a shoulder on both sides of the bushing so it's pushing the shoulder against the half nut body when you're threading in either direction?
13:41 I feel dumb but, why do you need to clock the brass insert to the dial? To make sure when the dial is on a whole number, the distance between the half nut and the dial allows the nuts to close up? As an alternative (for me for instance I bought replacement half nuts for my south bend so I can't clock them) ..... if I run into trouble, I could shim out my threading dial to achieve the same end result -no?
Wouldn't recommend using steel, a softer material is much better because it is a lot easier to remake the nuts than to replace the lead screw. Probably phosphor bronze would even better as it is self lubricant, but I guess brass is just right if you are a hobbyist.
I did not see the first part (I will as soon as I find it) so my question: is that a ready threaded purchased piece or did you do the threading? I like your solution a lot, I do work in similar manners, simple keep it down to earth. Keep it up. I'll subscibe
seems the oil holes are missing or you filled them with epoxy My lathe uses almost the exact same setup but it has oil holes that allows you to get oil directly into the nuts
Hi, I see it has been some time since this video was made, question I have is how are these holding up?, as I have a 10" Atlas that I need to do this to. They want a ridicules price even for used ones.
Hi Richard, I have been using my original set for over a year now with no issues at all. They still work just like when I installed them and show minimal wear. They don't see daily use, but I would say quite a bit of use considering I am just a hobbyist. Probably about 3 days a week I am using my lathe. I will put an update video on my channel if I ever run into trouble with them. Thanks for watching!!
Hi, I have started on a set for my Atlas but one thing I am having trouble with is how deep to make the thread, having trouble finding in the handbook. Do you happen to remember how deep you made yours? have watched part 1 but don't recall you ever mentioning it.
Is it an 8 TPI leadscrew? I believe standard acme thread depth is 0.5*pitch. So if it is 8TPI the 0.5*0.125 = 0.0625 But you need to know what the minor diameter is that you bored it out to as that will affect it a little
Hola hermano buen video arregle las medias tuercas de mi torno seguí el mismo procedimiento pero tuve que repetir porque la primera goma trasparente que tu muestras estaba muy liquida, y se despego al hacer la primera rosca , pero luego tu muestras al final del video una pega gris que sacas del torno compre después la pega gris porque era mas solida con este me quedo genial y ya rosque mi torno es un Colchester clausing . Saludos amigo y gracias por tu video.
hi great job i own an atlas v 54e today i broke the snail you could build me one for me only the bush the rest i think of course i'm telling myself the cost of the job i pay you up front.
It's not really about where your thread would "start". It is so that your half nuts engage the lead screw at one of the lines on the threading dial and not at some random place between the lines. Sorry if I didn't explain it well enough.
No no. You explained it well. My point being, when you engage the half nuts at a line it's gonna do the same thing every time. The line may not be 100% perfect, but it wasn't on ypur clocked example either.
Actually, I replaced a threading dial gear without considering this clocking issue and when I lock up the 1/2 nuts my threading dial stops about 1/8" off the tick mark. When they build these lathes they engage the 1/2 nuts then take a cold chisel and strike in an indicator mark that lines up with the dial/feed rod combination as randomly clocked at assembly. The video producer is right on target. This is absolutely required if you want to clock into the mark in your threading dial. I own at least 10 different Atlas lathes and they are all ticked in different places.
Is there no provision for adjusting the alignment of the threading dial itself? Alternatively, you could make/attach some kind of reference mark (maybe a dab of paint) to the body of the threading dial unit. Also, why not make the nut with a shoulder on both ends, so there's no tendency for it to be pushed out, whichever direction it is travelling?
This is a great video and I definitely something I could have followed to restore the worn half nuts in my Boxford Model C (similar to a South Bend or Hercus 9"). I had considered other ways to "restore" the thread including soldering and re-threading but none of them seemed viable bearing in mind the difficulty of having the two half-nuts already split into two parts. Yours is definitely the best solution as it provides an entirely new thread but re-uses the existing half nut mechanism. Nevertheless I have (for the moment at least) managed to delay this restoration task by a simple modification to the half nut pivots - I've machined new pivots with an eccentric part which now allows me to adjust the half nuts which was previously not possible. It might even be that some of your viewers wish to go the whole hog and do your repair AND add the means for adjustment. In case you are interested here it is ruclips.net/video/htoh0Tf1ZFc/видео.html
I have been following you since your first video. I'm retired and have about the same machines as you have. I have really learned a lot from you. Keep up the great work.
Thank you! Hearing comments like this is exactly what I want from making videos. To help show people how I do things so they can do the same.
Excellent work and thought process.
Good Idea. I was going to bore out the worn out half nut threads just enough to remove just the threads. Then bronze braze the half nuts and set up a fixture on the lathe to thread them but it's complicated. It seems I'm better off redesigning the half nuts so that threaded inserts can be easily replaced without gluing them together. I wish I had the original dimensions to these half nuts. It would really help.
I'll need to do the same for my lathe soon, going to give it a go with bronze. Thanks
Thanx ! Grate explanation. BTW, Why not make a narrow shoulder on both sides of the new bushing????
A most excellent video. Impressed you clocked it in to your threading dial hash-mark.
Thank you for watching and commenting!
It was an excellent video Dave
Perfect man , nice work out the spare part with excelent expelanation , thank you and good luck
Nice work young man.
This is such an awesome idea. Could you have made a shoulder on both sides of the bushing so it's pushing the shoulder against the half nut body when you're threading in either direction?
Good job brother.
New sub. Very nice repair and well presented. Thanks for sharing. Fred
Nice video, you just made me a “new subscriber”. By the way, your lathe looks great with that paint! JB in San Diego.
Thank you!
PS: I would use double flanges the second one as a screw on after the first alined, I work both ways
HI! SUSCRIBED! very nice video! just a simple question.... epoxy seems to work nice, but do you think it can be silver soldered? Regards Rodrigo
13:41 I feel dumb but, why do you need to clock the brass insert to the dial? To make sure when the dial is on a whole number, the distance between the half nut and the dial allows the nuts to close up? As an alternative (for me for instance I bought replacement half nuts for my south bend so I can't clock them) ..... if I run into trouble, I could shim out my threading dial to achieve the same end result -no?
10:00 Since Logan makes half nuts for this lathe and since they must be clocked ....... all half nuts must come cut in the same clock orientation?
Great Job !! 🤗
Very good idea
Hi,
I'm a new subscriber to your channel, and I like what I see so far.
Thanks for sharing.
Joe
Glad you like it! Thanks for subbing and watching!
great job on the half nuts. thanks for sharing.
Well Done!
Why didn't you made shoulder on both sides?
Wonder if you could've used a mild steel like 4140 instead of brass?
Thank you for taking the time to record and share.
Cheers
Wouldn't recommend using steel, a softer material is much better because it is a lot easier to remake the nuts than to replace the lead screw. Probably phosphor bronze would even better as it is self lubricant, but I guess brass is just right if you are a hobbyist.
@@reiniertl 932 Bronze is #1 choice. 12L14 leaded steel is Ok if you want steel. It machines super easy.
nicely done
I did not see the first part (I will as soon as I find it) so my question: is that a ready threaded purchased piece or did you do the threading? I like your solution a lot, I do work in similar manners, simple keep it down to earth. Keep it up. I'll subscibe
Why didn't you put a shoulder on both ends of your brass (should be bronze) piece?
You could do that. I used brass because I had it available. Thanks for watching
Amazing
Great video! Thank you
Very nice work and a good video
seems the oil holes are missing or you filled them with epoxy My lathe uses almost the exact same setup but it has oil holes that allows you to get oil directly into the nuts
Mine doesn't have oil holes in the half nuts. I just oil the lead screw
Why not Mic the length of the cast and put a shoulder on both sides of the brass nut for threading either way?
Yeah you could do that
Wonderfull !!
What type mill are you using? Excellent work.
Some import brand column mill drill. Works great for small hobby use. Thank you!
RF25 by the looks of it.
Mill Drill from HF or Grizzly.
I have one. Looks the same as mine.
Works.
just wondering if its still ok with the epoxy?
Still no issues
Hi, I see it has been some time since this video was made, question I have is how are these holding up?, as I have a 10" Atlas that I need to do this to. They want a ridicules price even for used ones.
Hi Richard, I have been using my original set for over a year now with no issues at all. They still work just like when I installed them and show minimal wear. They don't see daily use, but I would say quite a bit of use considering I am just a hobbyist. Probably about 3 days a week I am using my lathe. I will put an update video on my channel if I ever run into trouble with them. Thanks for watching!!
Hi, I have started on a set for my Atlas but one thing I am having trouble with is how deep to make the thread, having trouble finding in the handbook. Do you happen to remember how deep you made yours? have watched part 1 but don't recall you ever mentioning it.
Is it an 8 TPI leadscrew? I believe standard acme thread depth is 0.5*pitch. So if it is 8TPI the 0.5*0.125 = 0.0625 But you need to know what the minor diameter is that you bored it out to as that will affect it a little
Hola hermano buen video arregle las medias tuercas de mi torno seguí el mismo procedimiento pero tuve que repetir porque la primera goma trasparente que tu muestras estaba muy liquida, y se despego al hacer la primera rosca , pero luego tu muestras al final del video una pega gris que sacas del torno compre después la pega gris porque era mas solida con este me quedo genial y ya rosque mi torno es un Colchester clausing . Saludos amigo y gracias por tu video.
Nice job...very nice repair
Thank you!
Makin Sumthin From Nuthin ii
did you build the thread dial?
No that’s the oem dial that’s been sanded and polished
Good job. 👍
👍👍👍😘
hi great job i own an atlas v 54e today i broke the snail you could build me one for me only the bush the rest i think of course i'm telling myself the cost of the job i pay you up front.
hi nice one good job i like it 10/10 bob in derby uk
Am I really your first subscriber? I found it bizarre it said no subscribers for such a nice video.
You're the first one! Thanks for subscribing!! I have more videos in the works
Build Fix Create Right on, I look forward to it.
I don't believe you have to "clock" the half nut when you glue it in. Your thread would just start when you engage the half nuts.
It's not really about where your thread would "start". It is so that your half nuts engage the lead screw at one of the lines on the threading dial and not at some random place between the lines. Sorry if I didn't explain it well enough.
No no. You explained it well. My point being, when you engage the half nuts at a line it's gonna do the same thing every time. The line may not be 100% perfect, but it wasn't on ypur clocked example either.
Actually, I replaced a threading dial gear without considering this clocking issue and when I lock up the 1/2 nuts my threading dial stops about 1/8" off the tick mark. When they build these lathes they engage the 1/2 nuts then take a cold chisel and strike in an indicator mark that lines up with the dial/feed rod combination as randomly clocked at assembly. The video producer is right on target. This is absolutely required if you want to clock into the mark in your threading dial. I own at least 10 different Atlas lathes and they are all ticked in different places.
Is there no provision for adjusting the alignment of the threading dial itself?
Alternatively, you could make/attach some kind of reference mark (maybe a dab of paint) to the body of the threading dial unit.
Also, why not make the nut with a shoulder on both ends, so there's no tendency for it to be pushed out, whichever direction it is travelling?
Yes it is necessary or the start would not be true.
most of the parts for these lathes are available from Scott Logan...
Yes your right. I chose to repair mine instead of spend $200 on new ones
احسنت
This is a great video and I definitely something I could have followed to restore the worn half nuts in my Boxford Model C (similar to a South Bend or Hercus 9"). I had considered other ways to "restore" the thread including soldering and re-threading but none of them seemed viable bearing in mind the difficulty of having the two half-nuts already split into two parts. Yours is definitely the best solution as it provides an entirely new thread but re-uses the existing half nut mechanism. Nevertheless I have (for the moment at least) managed to delay this restoration task by a simple modification to the half nut pivots - I've machined new pivots with an eccentric part which now allows me to adjust the half nuts which was previously not possible. It might even be that some of your viewers wish to go the whole hog and do your repair AND add the means for adjustment. In case you are interested here it is ruclips.net/video/htoh0Tf1ZFc/видео.html