Making a Lathe Crossfeed Nut - My way
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- I make a new crossfeed nut for my Clausing 6903 Metal lathe. This is a design of my own and a test subject/prototype.
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Finally, someone makes a crossfeed nut out of actual bearing bronze and not brass! Too many YT machinist channels use brass for this application, which is just wrong. Thank you Randy!
Thank you , I always use 932 bronze.
Nice design but one of the two nuts needs to be fixed to the nut holder body. The fixed nut transmits the load to the cross slide and the adjustment screw wedges the other nut to take up the backlash. Without one side fixed the load is held by the force between the adjustment screw wedge and the side of the nuts, which will wear very quickly due to compression forces on a very small area where they contact. You will be constantly tightening the wedge screw as it wears into the 2 nuts. Fixing one side transfers the load to the sides of the lead screw. To fix the one nut you could drill and tap a hole thru the top of the body and fix the nut with a set screw with an oil hole. You could then lube the nuts without removing both screws. Anyway, nice design idea which I will be doing on my 5914 when I get to that part of the rebuild.
@misterfixit1952 Just what I was thinking while watching the video.
5 years later I find this video with an excellent idea to adjust backlash. Thank you.
Works well. Still running in this Clausing. Thanks.
Wow! Clever split nut design, I love it. I've been messing with my Monarch cross slide and this gives me several new ideas. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Ah the beauty of fresh turned bronze. Simply gorgeous work Randy.
The center punch trick for the real center was very clever. I ran into a similar slightly off square on my shaper downfeef. I screwed up and trusted the builder- then I had to play cobbler to make it work.
Nice looking parts and a brave move threading the nuts. Small internal ACMEs are never easy. Not convinced with the pointed grub screw and the inherent small bearing area into the bronze nuts. I'm predicting rapid wear from cutting forces especially from intermittent cuts. Might I suggest an internal circlip and end plate either end of one of the bronze nuts to act as thrust faces.
Thank you Rob. Yes I am concerned about this. Intermittent cuts can be pounding. I have been thinking on this. prototype always subject to change. Thank you again for your ideas on this.
the design is overall good, my concern is about the spreader set screw VS the threaded bushings, all the force exerted by the lead screw is concentrated to that small area so I suspect the creeping of the bushing bronze and a rapid loss of the initial setting and of course the icrease of the lead screw backlash
Well so far it has been working fine for several years. Valid concerns.
The cross-feed nut in my workshop stands in front of my lathe on two legs. Sometimes he is very cross. He is always a nut. But he handles the feed pretty well.
Smart solution! huge improvement over the original piece.
Thank you Nate.
Extremely clever design on the cross feed nut. Great project.
Thanks Max.
The material looks like 12L14 chips break up nice finish great job need to make one for my old sheldon lathe great looking
DEINE Selbstgebaute/gefertigte Spinpel ist deffinitiv , ALLEIN schon weger der STEIGUNG des Gewindes , 100% präziser , also das doppelte - Und Dein Spiel in der Lösung von Dir ist minimal - das übliche , wenn man mehrere Meßpunkte hat und die fehlerquote sich summiert . Ich mag Deine Lösung, von der Qualität, von der Fertigung - gefällt mir - Nein , Nein , es gefällt mir wirklich gut. Du solltest vorm einbau Schlau sein und Ich gebe Dir einen Tip , weil Du messing mit stahl verbunden hast ! Ist es eine Presspassung , was Ich nur Hoffen kann , denn wenn ja , dann hast Du die Chance es komplett auf Brünier Temperatur zu bringen , um es in Öl zu brünieren . Das wird nicht SCHWARZ , es wird BLAU und zwar ein unglaubliches BLAU, wegen dem Messing . Vielleicht Aussen wie bei einen würfel , noch kleine Bohrungen machen a 2mm und 3mm tief und messingstifte a 2mm in die löcher Hämmern/pressen - mit der Feile schlichten und dann brünieren - es wird dann 100pro bläulich und wqird nie rosten - Du wirst nie ein schöneres Produkt hinkriegen , als brünierten stahl+ messing - die messingpunkte bleiben gold , das stahl blau - also symetrische bohrungen und Abstände machen es später zu einen "WILL ICH AUCH HABEN" objekt . Leider sieht es keiner unterm Planschlitten . Wieso nicht härten
/brünieren , wo Du schon so eine Arbeit gemacht hast , kommt es auch nicht mehr drauf an , es wäre ein würdiges finish gewesen im Video , aber Hey , Ich bin erst bei 24:15
Wer weiß , wie Du es finishen tust ? Bin gespannt
Nice work as usual. I do agree with others who suggest that your conical setscrew adjuster bears the entire thrust force, and I think there is some chance that the key could works its way out or part way out. May a drop of Loctite would prevent that. Maybe add some kind of retainer to the far end of the bearing holder (steel) part, since that’s the end that has to support the most thrust?
Highly appreciative idea and excellent work done. Thanks Randy Richard for your good work done.
Thank you for watching.
more good work . I own a machine shop and frown upon most youtube channels but you have my respect for your nice clean work
Thanks you Dan. I try.
That's a beautiful tandem nut design, Randall
Thank you.
Hey Randy! Great design and execution! For lube purposes I bet you could drill another passage into the space between the twin bronze nuts, offset in angle to miss the set screws, so you could oil it without taking apart your cross slide - just adjust the cross slide so the lube holes line up. A bit of felt or fuzz could act as a reservoir and filter. A stepped lube bore would store more oil.
Pretty genius idea! Enjoyed watching. I may have to make one for my South Bend Lathe in the future.
The pop heard on removing a gauge plug from a blind hole is so satisfying. An adjustable parallel could have been used to square up the nut in the crosslide.
Nice project, Randy. Looking good. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you Joe.
Great idea im doing that when its worn from my repair
👍👍👍👍
Very nice design bit Randy, looks like a huge improvement over stock. Great looking part!
Thank you.
Awesome vid.. i recently had to replace the cross feed nut in my '63 Colchester.. For others needing make this part; McMasterCarr anded up having threaded blank stock with the correct ACME internal thread..def saved me a bunch of fab time..
Thanks b-_. Yes you can buy Acme 10 in 5/8" dia. But the cost would of been twice as much. I have plenty of time these days, and always fun to make from raw stock. The next one for my Lance lathe will be from pre threaded material if I can do it.
Great Job Randy. Thanks for sharing.
Gary, 74-Year-Old Home Shop Machinist
Thank you Gary.
Hi Randy. I just found you channel this morning and am impressed. You did a fantastic job with the lead screw nut. I am familiar with the method you employed using two nuts but have not yet put it to use.
Needless to say, I have an old Southbend 9" that needs similar tune and will be doing as you have none here so wonderfully. Thank you for sharing this.
Thank you for watching. This has worked out great.
Nice project! Nice design on the nut.
Thank you Pat.
Nice, I have that exact lathe and need that exact part! Love the adjustment feature.
Thank you. Time to get to work.
Thanks for sharing with us. Great video and work. If watching this kind of perfection doesn't make you want to learn and produce great results than it's just entertainment instead of the real deal.
Thank you Paul for the kind words. Merry Christmas.
Nice project Randy, enjoyed watching it come together.
Only wish I found this one sooner I believe I could have used this technique on the rebuilds I have completed.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Scott.
Great start to the weekend. Thanks for sharing the project. I've seen that wedge action wear adjustment on something before. I believe it was something Mr. Pete either made or demonstrated, but I feel like there were springs pushing the two halves apart, and maybe the set screw was brass tipped as well. I don't know, I could be wrong, but it's cool all the same.
Thank you John. Prototype we will see.
The Takisawa has 2 nuts with a screw between to spread them and take out the backlash.
Nice Thanks.
Nice idea and good job. Thanks Randy.
Thank you
Top. Muito legal esta técnica para eliminar backlach. Aprendi bastante. Parabéns por ensinarmos alguns truques de mecânica e tornearia
Outstanding! Given me the incentive to fix the backlash on my Colchester Bantam!!
Great.
This is a great design. I need to replace the leadscrew and nut on the crosslide of an old Enco lathe i recently won in an auction, I'm stealing this! 😎👍
Thank you works well.
Very smart solution !
I will try the same to fix my old machine.
Many thanks ❤
Seem to keep working well. Thanks you.
@@RRINTHESHOP good to know that 6 years later that fix that others said would wear quickly is still standing the test of time.
I have acquired an old machine years ago for dirt cheap, and issue was on the lead screw a lot of backlash, and the parts can't be ordered or found but would have to be re-made.
Your way to create a new nut with reduced backlash is both economic and efficient ; I will definitely try that.
Sincere thanks for sharing
Going strong, Thankyou
I love that design Randy , Great work man !
Thank you Shawn.
I used a trio of pilot bushings for my S10 to make bushings for the mixer, now I'm wondering if a pair of them would have worked for those nuts. It certainly reminded me of that when you had the pair laying on the bench. Something to remember, as a quick source when you're stock is low or if you want to reserve it for the more unusual projects that show up from time to time.
Always great to recycle or reuse one part for another. Thanks Diggerop.
Looks and works great, Bravo Randy. Nice design. My lathe has next to no backlash on the cross slide and Im used to that, I was at Pierre's this week working on his lathe ( helping him catch up on out WIYB project) and i had to be careful not to scrap parts, his has some backlash which i'm not used to dealing with...
Did all that in half an hour..... LOL no wonder, you nailed the 4 jaw on the first try, turned at 3000 rpm's with a .04 feed I didn't think your mill could hit 10k rpm's sheesh haha how about a full day instead..
Loved the video, hope everyone is fine. take care
Thanks Phil. Try 3 days and not one screwup. The wonders of film. Those Jacks are going to be nice. I just set off some scribes to Keith for WIYB.
Hay randy, I love the split nut concept and despite concerns from some viewers you seem to be pleased with it. If you want to get a laugh check out how the voice to text translator (CC) deciphers your comments. It's a hoot!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Thank you C drive. Yes the translator provides great comedy.
Really nice work Randy! Until I watched to the end of your (30 mins build LOL) I was curious as to where this was going. I see the end result & am happy to say great repair/modification to the Lathe. I was not aware of backlash systems on Lathes, first I heard of this was on a Cincinnati Mill, Don't know if they were the first to do this, perhaps their method is different. End result, it works! Cheers from John Australia.
Thank you John.
Precision work and looks good too. Typical Randy Richard project. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Harold.
Repaired it and made it a lot better than it was.
Thank you T.R.
awesome work and video dude thanks for making! I just got my first lathe a Logan 1955h will be doing something about the backlash, might replace with a ball nut and new acme thread rod. will see how bad the threads are and if I can't just cut the existing nut in half and spread it apart with some set screws to take up the backlash.
your old threads were really impressively worn! I'm guessing that if they're really worn down in one area like that, and you spread apart two components of the nut to take up slack, then it's going to bind as you move into the less worn part of the rod? gotta replace the rod I guess
Yes it will bind. Time to replace. Thanks.
Very nice, Thank You for the video.
Thank you Charles.
I admire your work very much, may God bless you. Greetings from Egypt, Alexandria
Thank you so much!
Wow! Awesome job. My Clausing lathe has the same massive amount of backlash on the cross slide and screw. I wish I had the skills to make a new one like you, but I'm just beginning in machining, so I'm not confident enough to do this. Great video though. I'll probably come back to this once I get a bit more experience on the late and mill.
Thanks, You can buy acme threaded rod then just machine the few spots. Buy a new nut.
lovely job
Thank you! Cheers!
I know this an old thread but lovely work Randy. Man i need to get on with this lathe of mine. I finished the tailstock a year ago. Got so much to do. And not enough time to do it.
Worked out great.
Great build/video, interesting comments on the design
Thank you Chuck. Congrats on being the winner with PAST. Comments on a prototype, everyone has one.
That’s just BRILLIANT Randy. I’m finally getting my 5903 Clausing together and have been checking out some of your videos. This adjustable backlash designed but is by far the most simply clever design I have ever seen. Love your videos. Thanks. And you are a true Craftsman!!!
That came out great! I need to make or buy one for my lathe as well. Chris
Thanks Chris.
Genius.
Thanks
Good job Randy.
Thank you Glen.
Superb job
Thank you! Cheers!
Nice job Randy, wished you would have made two. I have the same machine.
Sorry George.
Hello Randy. this is a class act. I am just starting out with an old French lathe Hernault Batignolles HN170. Lots of back lash on the lead screw. Could you make the nut for me?
Upside down parting tool? I may try that...
Glad to see my lathe isn't the only one that sounds like a bag of spanners :)
This is a Left hand parting tool and it worked great upside down, chips clear well. All Clausing with the Reeves drive sound like this. Thanks.
A lot of work went into that. Turned out great. Clausing would have wanted an arm and a leg for it.
Thanks Ken, A lot is for sure.
I like your layout lines at 03:03. My ENCO has a lot of backlash in the cross slide. Just got a manual from MSC that says it has an adjustable nut. I hope the lead screw is not worn out like yours. You don't think the key can back out do you. Another good video.
Thanks. I staked the key just to make sure.
Damn, that's a brilliant design. Now come and do my Clausing 5912. LOL
Thank you Mark.
Very nice Randy, well done!
Thank Ray.
Beautiful work here Randy, and that pas was one of the nicest i've seen :)
Thank you , I try.
In my view it should give you a brand new cross slide, 4 to 5 thousand is better than what's here... Just worried about the fact that the pin is pretty small instaed of a bigger wedge, but, I guess we'll see it in action soon...
Nice machining results... ;)
Thank Pierre. Prototype, we will see.
Very good job! Congratulations!🇧🇷
👍👍
Hello Randy I took the nut out, I am going to measure it for thread, I dont know yet if it is metric or standard.
Brilliant idea! Thanks for showing this... Cheers
Thanks Dave.
randy very nice work.
Thank you Bob.
Great idea on my must do list
Thanks
Do I understand correctly that the "wedge" set screw is the only thing transferring the axial force between the nuts and the carrier? From a "seat of the pants" first look that seems small. Also, is there anything besides friction keeping the key from walking out of the nut carrier? Perhaps capturing it with the head of a small screw on each end. Or maybe that's looking for problem that doesn't exist. Thirdly, could you center drill your two set screws and add a ball oiler on top? I would think the remove and replace routine would get old. Great Video.
Thank you AZ. I did stake the ends of the key, there are no forces acting on the key to push it out. Yes I think the screw may be to small. Not sure of the amount of force on the axis of the screw. I was going to drill the centers of the screws and forgot about doing that. Thank yo again for sharing your honest thoughts. This is a prototype and always subject to change.
Pin gages are so handy.
YEs they are great, I need more, I only have them to 0.625. Thank you Tom.
neat stuff as always Randy!
Thank you Jeff.
Nice work!
Thank yo Gert.
You can take the engineer out of the ocean but you can't take the engineer our of the engineer!
Thanks you John.
That is a lot of force going thru the tip of that screw don't you think?I mean really that is the only thing opposing the cutting forces from pushing the cross slide back.
i was thinking the same... whenever your cutter is engaging or even chattering, that little point will get hammered real hard
Hey Brian, I thought that also. I'm not sure Randy's will give him any trouble, but I was thinking of tapering the end of one of the nuts and make a U shape gib as the wedge could be a lil more rigid.
I'm with Alex and Steve... on the thrust side of the threaded bushing steel carrier you could drill and tap a couple of holes.. 10-32 maybe and install button head screws so that the heads of the screws hung out over the threaded bushings. They would be taking the thrust load when you advanced the cross feed screw.
If you were making the steel carrier again, you could just leave a lip in the bushing bore or make a snap ring groove to take the thrust load. A lip would be easier to do.
Yes when I get back to finish up the clausing I am going to look at this again and use one of the viewer suggestion, i am liking yours the most. Thanks for the comment.
Witam z Polski szkoda że kolega nie wykonał zamiast klina to wkręcane śruby na bokach to zapobiega wyciągnięciu tuleii z brązu z obudowy mam w namyśli śruby na kluczyk imbusowy bez łba ,natomisat wycentrowanie do toczenia gwintu jednak bym wsadził klin boczny sanek i ustawił bym tak jak do pracy sanek i oznaczył bym dopiero punkt środkowy ogólnie profesjonalnie wykonane pozdrawiam
Great project.
Thank you Roy.
Randy,
Exquisite machining. Have you thought about drilling a 1/16" hole through the setscrews to allow oiling without disturbing the adjustment?
Yes, all done. Thank you Don.
That Randy is another fine piece of work. A lot of pretty critical operations. For sure threading the bush internally is super needy of concentration - I'm sure many of us have screwed up such in the past - and often at the last stage as we can get careless!
Wow, that backlash on the old one was certainly extreme!
Kudos dude! :)
Thanks Chris.
I didn’t read all the comments but it sounds like your colllet closer handle is banging away. If that’s the case I found a video that showed me how to dial indicate that outer spindle the shaft goes into and now my Collett closer handle does not vibrate at all. :-)
Yep at that time, I have fixed since then and runs very smooth now. Thank you for watching.
Very cool design. I like it. (Good thing the castings had room for it, although you probably could have opened them up a bit if that had been needed.)
Did you say whether you had pressed the fixed (non-gib) side of the dovetail against the carriage body when transferring the bore location? If so I must have missed it.
At one point you said you hoped the nuts would wear before the shaft, but usually it's the harder object that wears. Any grit embeds in the softer substance and wears away the harder substance. You could tell that the threads on the shaft had taken most of the wear by how much difference in endplay there was at different locations on the shaft. Still, I doubt that a toolroom (or hobby) lathe will ever wear out the crossfeed. That happens mostly where there is production facing or parting going on, with a lot of motion under heavy load at the same location.
I tend to agree with bcbloc02's observation, and Steve_just_Steve's solution. Even a quarter or third of the circle wedge would have a lot more area than the cone of the setscrew. If it ever wears too much (or causes chatter), it would be possible to make the conversion at a later date.
Thank you Peter. Yes I had the non-gib side tight. I thought about a wedge setup but the space is tight. But with the lathe together now I could of made the nut carrier longer with out a problem. I may be designing a new carrier.
👍👍👍
Пружинная шайба между гайками не была бы лучше?
Wouldn't a spring washer between the nuts be better?
Maybe. Did not try that. thanks you for the idea.
Will you make a keeper for the key?
Thanks for the good idea.
I might try to make something similar for my mini lathe
Thanks for the vids
There is no forces acting on the key which should push the key out. But I did center punch both ends to stake it, this should be enough. Thanks Dennis.
Excellent work. How has this design performed over the last three years?
No problems so far, my son now has this this lathe and uses it regularly. Thank you.
Transfer punches are 0.002-0.003" undersized, to prevent them from getting stuck in holes. The catalog info doesn't, though, state how precision the undersizing is. I said 2-3 because I can't remember which is was, not to indicate precision.
If you bored your guide bushing to size, could the undersizing of the transfer punch be enough to cause the punch mark to be off center? (I wasn't sure if you said it was supposed to be off center, or not.)
Oh, in case you read the comment I left on part one, about the drill bit shifting, I saw the center drill moved just a bit on the steel, but not at all on the bronze. I turned some bronze and some steel bushings last week, and I'm thinking I got the same results, movement on the steel, but not on the bronze.
BTW, what were you doing with the small rule on the end of the piece?
Thanks for posting, and sharing your knowledge
Thank you great job
Thanks for watching!
Freaking Awesome
Thanks.
pretty smart ............. I like it
Thanks 2024.
Wozu die Paßfeder ????????????????? die Paßfeder verhindert nicht , das der Planschlitten sich nicht bewegt und die Messinghülse entlang der Paßfeder rausgezogen oder rausgedrückt wird . Es hätte noch eine Bohrung benötigt , für eine Madenschraube die ins Messing greift , damit es sich nicht vor und zurück verschieben kann . Beim Räumwerkzeug war Ich auch etwas enttäuscht , das es kein eigenbau war , sondern gekauftes set . Außerdem hätte man es auf der Drehbank hätte räumen sollen , mit lünette und selbstgebauten Meisel zum abfahren der Späne per Support . Werkstück in die lünette packen und per Zug leit spindel den Meissel in 5/100stel die LANGNUT im stillstehenden Werkstück SCHABEN/hohnen/räumen ----> es ist doch nicht mehr , als ein breiter abstechmeisel, der der die langnut schabt. man kann es auch manuell ohne vorschub in mehreren Durchgängen reinschaben .
Eine halterung für die bohrmaschine im Support kann helfen , wenn ein Fräser - schaftfräser eingespannt ist , daß der support eine langnut fräsen kann , wenn das Werkstück im Futter eingespannt ist (das futtter muß gesperrt sein und darf sich nicht drehen . Fräsen auf der Drehbank
Funny how things change. When I was in HS Machine Shop 1968-70, only the teacher had a brazed carbide tool, and we were told to never do interrupted cuts with a carbide tool. Now everybody has carbide insert tools, and everybody does interrupted cuts with them. Thanks for the info on the ACME cutting tool. What is the length of cut with that cutting tool?
Thanks Vernon. I will have to look.
Elegant solution
Thanks Chris.
Thank you very much for your
Ets good aides
But I think if you put Paul then put spring after that put screw mapey give good
Thank you again
ok
Very nice work Randy . Can you come out & make a set for my Grizzly?
Thanks Mike. I will have to tour the country modifying lathes.
Nice video Randy, Yeah,30 Minutes to make that seems like a long time, should have taken about 20. I know I could have done it in 5 minutes 😒. Of course I'm joking. Very good video, I really enjoyed it. Going to be a very nice lathe when you are finished.
Nice job Randy, looks great. Sounds like it was a fun project. Did you grind your own acme threading tools or are they purchased?
Thanks Craig. Purchased, solid carbide, very nice. Very small 10 tpi, tough to grind.
NICE! I like it
Thanks Mark 😄 Works well.
@@RRINTHESHOP - I'll bet it does. I need to do something like this on my RF 30 mill. It has more space but it's super hard to get to.
Ich täte ja überlegen , weil mein Planschlitten ebenfalls spiel hat ......... um überhaupt die Genauigkeit zu bekommen , beim Gewindedrehen , weil der Schlitten ja Spiel hat .
Also Ich denke , Ich werde Mein Carbon nehmen , es etwa 8cm breit und im Durchmesser so Dick , das es mindestens 5mm Wandung hat , um die WELLE legen und harzen , dann mit Klebeband fest umwickeln , sodaß es keinerlei Luft gibt - Die Welle zuvor mit trennlack eingeschmiert . Das sollte genügen , das gehärtete Carbon von der welle zu schrauben . anschließend wieder das Carbon auf die Welle ziehen und in die Führungsmutter , damit das Carbonteil mit der Führungsmutter des Schlittens sauber verklebt werden kann , mittels CARBON ;-) Ich bezweifle , das es eine bessere MEthode gibt , die genauerer ist , als ein direkter abruck von der original Welle . Carbon hat ungefähr die Härte von CrNiMoX-Stahl, es sollte also nicht durch ein Baustahl verschleissen ,-) Mit der Genauigkeit die man hat , kann man dann ja eine richtige Gewindestange fertigen + Mutter .
Auch wenn es Spiel hat irgendwo , zum Beispiel bei der Aufnahme , sodaß man eine unterlegscheibe extra aufMaß fertigen müßte - das geht ebenso mit Carbon , wenn es leicht fest ist zusammenbauen und aushärten lassen , am nächsten Tag ist es ein extrem passgenaues Teil . Warum kompliziert , wenn es auch leicht geht ---> Carbon ist der Hammer für Leute die Zerspannungsmechaniker lernten - sehr leicht und fest wie Stahl ;-)
Nur mal so als IDEE , weil um eine Spindel zu drehen , braucht es Vorschub mit gewisser Steigung , eine Drehbank ohne Spiel im Support . Und um das etwas zu fixen , würde Ich carbon wählen . Denn eine Mutter oder 2 Muttern neben der jetztigen Spindelmutter könnte das Spiel auch eleminieren , wenn man sie an die Hauptmutter schweißen täte ; aber wer hat schon solche muttern mit spezialgewinde rumliegen ? Niemand , man muß sie sich bestellen oder fertigen ;-=)
Randy, man, what is that parting off tool you used near the beginning on the lathe?
That is a left hand insert parting tool being used in a right hand configuration, kind of nice the chips fall away and the lathe running in reverse. Thanks.
Nice job, I may try to make one for my LeBlond Regal, is the drive on your lathe really that noisy, or is the microphone attached to it to the gearbox?
No, Clausing with reeves drives are very noisy. Thank you.
Is there anything to keep the key from vibrating or working its way out?
No but I did center punch stake the ends.