Great Video! I bought the $59 drill, a 4” x 1/8 Spyder bit for $26 and went to work. First cut through one side and stuck the drill in the whole and drilled out the other side. After the job was done, I realized that I never set the drill to hammer mode but the process still worked like a charm. Each cut took around 3 minutes. The rental at Home Depot would’ve cost $167. And with your method, I get to keep the drill. Thanks.
I have watched several different Video presentations for tackling this project. Far and away you give what I consider to be the most economically and skill acumen feasible. Great Job VERY much appreciated!
Thank you for this tip! I'm just about to enlarge my dryer vent hole up from the original 3" diameter. I was wondering if I should up to 4", 4 ¼", or 4 ½".
Prefect example of the problem with “right tool for the job syndrome”. Just because it’s not what a pro would use doesn’t mean it can’t get the job done. Did it take longer, yes, but not as long as renting and returning an SDS. Could you cut 50 a day with that setup no, but when you only need one, it gets the job done and no additional cost. Now of that was a poured foundation, probably a different story. but it wasn’t and the tool worked great.
Fantastic. I assume a diamond coring bit would have been enven better, smoother. Also, diamond core bits are used without "hammering." This is the best video I have seen on this matter. Excellent.
So glad we dont need to have a dryer vented to the home exterior. We more or less just keep the laundry door open to the back yard. The dryer just pushes the air out into the room and it dissipates to the outdoors. The screen door stays closed though.
Nice job!! I need to drill a 6 inch hole for a wood stove exhaust pipe ..And all I have is a 3/4" concrete bit to drill relief holes all the way around the circumference , then ill hammer it out and do the outside the same way ...itll take some doin for sure ..wish I had ur spyder hole saw kit right now ..lol
I thought you might come up a little short if you did not allow for the thickness of the end of the block when you measured the 4”. Glad it worked out for you. As someone who has worked in several appliances, I will say straight smooth metal vent would have been better to run to that outlet. I am about to do a similar job through brick. I might check out a mason art hole saw rather than drilling holes around the circumference of the pipe and chipping out with a cold chisel and taking a chance of breaking the brick.
Thanks for watching. Allowing for the thickness of the block is tricky, b/c blocks are different thicknesses depending on manufacture and year. In may case I was dealing with blocks made in the late 1970’s. 4” is a good average, and then hope you hit the center. In my case it worked out.
Looks good. Was just curious if i should tackle a similar wall(built in the late 70s as well) to move the dryer vent using my Milwaukee hammer drill, gonna say it will handle it just fine after watching this.
Update on mine.... DOH, mine are 3 chamber blocks. Used the Spyder bit just like this, with my Milwaukee hammer drill. had to cut as far in as i could from the outside, then once i could hit the other side of the brick interior with the auger, i took the hole piece off and punched through with just the main auger piece so i knew where to hit it on the inside. finished the hole inside and boom, all good.
Your cinder block wall has huge holes in the middle making the 4" bit forgiving. For a run of that length through solid concrete you're going to need a larger hole.
No, the 4” bit is fine for a 4” vent. There is approx 1/8” rough play in the 4” and you will have plenty of room. The hole will wollow out too big if you use a 4-1/2
@@Ozarkwild all I needed for is a dryer vent. My contractor bricked-up where there was a basement window and drilled to vent holes one for a bathroom vent and the other for the other for a dryer. In doing the renovation we had to change in plan.
Ugh drilling for those tapcons is like fingernails in a chalk board to me. I love my rotary hammer. Never have to go thru that painful process again I HATE IT. rotary hammers are cheap these days gitchu wuuuun. Also maybe drill a pilot all the way thru first so you can locate perfectly both sides 👍🏻👍🏻🧜♂️
Lowes has the Spyder brand of bits, I think I got them on sale for $99 bucks and Home Depot has the Ryobi drill, it was around $59, without the battery.
Great Video! I bought the $59 drill, a 4” x 1/8 Spyder bit for $26 and went to work. First cut through one side and stuck the drill in the whole and drilled out the other side. After the job was done, I realized that I never set the drill to hammer mode but the process still worked like a charm. Each cut took around 3 minutes. The rental at Home Depot would’ve cost $167. And with your method, I get to keep the drill. Thanks.
Awesome! Glad to have helped. Thanks for watching the video.
Spyder's best commercial/demo, they didn't even know they had
Yeah, I bought that Spyder set when I started my house remodel. Got my monies worth for sure.
I’m glad I don’t have to buy a fancy drill just to make a hole,I feel confident enough now to do it myself, thanks for your video.
I have watched several different Video presentations for tackling this project. Far and away you give what I consider to be the most economically and skill acumen feasible. Great Job VERY much appreciated!
Wow, thanks for the comment! And thanks for watching! Good luck if you decide to tackle it!
You did great job... Always use 4.25 for 4inch dryer opening as that allows room to slope vent sleeve downwards towards exterior (HVAC guy) 👍
Makes sense.. thanks
Thank you for this tip! I'm just about to enlarge my dryer vent hole up from the original 3" diameter. I was wondering if I should up to 4", 4 ¼", or 4 ½".
Prefect example of the problem with “right tool for the job syndrome”. Just because it’s not what a pro would use doesn’t mean it can’t get the job done. Did it take longer, yes, but not as long as renting and returning an SDS. Could you cut 50 a day with that setup no, but when you only need one, it gets the job done and no additional cost.
Now of that was a poured foundation, probably a different story. but it wasn’t and the tool worked great.
Agree - thanks for watching!
That looks so much easier than I thought it would be.
Love that resourceful approach to getting a job done. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you very much 😊
I live in California ... those cinderblock voids would be filled with concrete and rebar here.
Fantastic. I assume a diamond coring bit would have been enven better, smoother. Also, diamond core bits are used without "hammering." This is the best video I have seen on this matter. Excellent.
Thanks for the comment! Glad to help. Thanks for watching!
So glad we dont need to have a dryer vented to the home exterior. We more or less just keep the laundry door open to the back yard. The dryer just pushes the air out into the room and it dissipates to the outdoors. The screen door stays closed though.
I used a Ridgid hammer drill and a $15 carbide bit I got from Harbor Freight and it went thru the cinder block like a knife thru butter.
It's all about determination, mixed in with optimism and reasonable on-hand resources to get things done. Came out great, bro. Nice job ✊
Well said. Thanks!
That’s brilliant. Profound and accurate.
Nice job!! I need to drill a 6 inch hole for a wood stove exhaust pipe ..And all I have is a 3/4" concrete bit to drill relief holes all the way around the circumference , then ill hammer it out and do the outside the same way ...itll take some doin for sure ..wish I had ur spyder hole saw kit right now ..lol
Good luck, I'm sure you will chip it out just fine.
I thought you might come up a little short if you did not allow for the thickness of the end of the block when you measured the 4”.
Glad it worked out for you.
As someone who has worked in several appliances, I will say straight smooth metal vent would have been better to run to that outlet.
I am about to do a similar job through brick. I might check out a mason art hole saw rather than drilling holes around the circumference of the pipe and chipping out with a cold chisel and taking a chance of breaking the brick.
Thanks for watching. Allowing for the thickness of the block is tricky, b/c blocks are different thicknesses depending on manufacture and year. In may case I was dealing with blocks made in the late 1970’s. 4” is a good average, and then hope you hit the center. In my case it worked out.
It’s a good advertisement for the Ryobi
Looks good. Was just curious if i should tackle a similar wall(built in the late 70s as well) to move the dryer vent using my Milwaukee hammer drill, gonna say it will handle it just fine after watching this.
Update on mine.... DOH, mine are 3 chamber blocks. Used the Spyder bit just like this, with my Milwaukee hammer drill. had to cut as far in as i could from the outside, then once i could hit the other side of the brick interior with the auger, i took the hole piece off and punched through with just the main auger piece so i knew where to hit it on the inside. finished the hole inside and boom, all good.
@@mirthenemrys Good method and reduces drilling in the middle.
Excellent video and fits my thinking
Thank you!
Your cinder block wall has huge holes in the middle making the 4" bit forgiving. For a run of that length through solid concrete you're going to need a larger hole.
Agree. The video was about using basic tools to drill through a hollow cinder block
Nice job!
Wouldn't using water help?
Great video, thanks for sharing!
Did you use in hammer mode ? Can you confirm if 4.25 in better, or did 4 in work or was it too snug?
I used hammer mode. I used a 4”. There was enough wobble in hammer mode that oversized it a bit. It was very tight. The 4.25 would work well, as well.
Nice job! 👍 Now return that dull hole saw to Lowe’s. 😉
Awesome! I have to do this at my condo rental
it is the cutting blade that does the work, the drill turns it.
All you have to do is size up your pipe and just drill pilot holes then you can tap the concrete insert out you don’t even need a coring bit
Works. But too ugly for me
Looking to do a similar job the size of the bit that you used was a 4in? You didn't need to go over size?
No, the 4” bit is fine for a 4” vent. There is approx 1/8” rough play in the 4” and you will have plenty of room. The hole will wollow out too big if you use a 4-1/2
@@Ozarkwild 😉👌thank you for the info..
See comment below from @LG. He’s an HVAC guy. He has a point.. A 4.25 bit will allow for a slope. Makes sense
@@Ozarkwild all I needed for is a dryer vent. My contractor bricked-up where there was a basement window and drilled to vent holes one for a bathroom vent and the other for the other for a dryer. In doing the renovation we had to change in plan.
If you listen, sounds like a video narrated by Billy Bob Thornton. 👍🏻
I take that as a compliment! Born and raised in Georgia! Thanks for watching the video!
Man you ain’t never lied😂
Billy Bob is cool - I get Rick Moranis. 😩 Ps great video.
Why dont you have an SDS Drill?
Interesting. Thanx fot this test 😎
Good Job Man
Thanks!
Ugh drilling for those tapcons is like fingernails in a chalk board to me. I love my rotary hammer. Never have to go thru that painful process again I HATE IT. rotary hammers are cheap these days gitchu wuuuun.
Also maybe drill a pilot all the way thru first so you can locate perfectly both sides 👍🏻👍🏻🧜♂️
MasK?
No, I didn’t see any Covid in my basement
Lol. Cement dust.
@@pressleynorris9885 Yeah cement dust is very nasty stuff to breathe.
sorry which store and where you get that set and what is price for it ,thanks
Lowes has the Spyder brand of bits, I think I got them on sale for $99 bucks and Home Depot has the Ryobi drill, it was around $59, without the battery.
@@Ozarkwild thanks man
The kit cost more than drill
Not solid wall as solid as people had in between years of 1965 to 1970. 😅
No mask? No water? No lungs?
How do you know I wasn’t wearing and mask?