How to Vent a Clothes Dryer | Ask This Old House
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- Ask This Old House plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey travels to Cleveland to reroute a lengthy dryer vent.
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Time: 1-2 hours
Cost: $30
Skill Level: Beginner
Tools List for Venting a Clothes Dryer:
Measuring tape
Drill Driver
Hole saw slightly larger than size of vent pipes
Metal cutting scissors or shears
Shopping List:
Rigid dryer pipes
Dryer vent elbows
Dryer vent cover
Critter cover
Foil duct tape
Vent clamp
Steps:
1. Measure and mark the correct location for the rigid pipe to vent to the outside.
2. Drill a pilot hole through the marked location to determine where to drill from outside.
3. When drilling through vinyl siding, set the drill into reverse and lightly score the hole based on the center of the pilot hole using the hole saw.
4. Set the drill into the correct direction and drill the hole. Don’t cut all the way through to the other side.
5. Go back inside and drill the rest of the hole from the inside. This will ensure the cut appears clean on both sides of the hole.
6. Measure and cut the rigid vent pipes to size. Seal the seams of the vent pipes with the duct tape.
7. Insert the pipe into the dryer vent cover. Seal the seam with more duct tape.
8. From the outside, insert the pipe into the hole. Secure the vent cover to the exterior wall with screws. You can add an additional critter cover over the dryer vent cover to prevent pests from coming up.
9. Insert the other end of the pipe into a dryer vent elbow and seal it with duct tape.
10. Push the dryer back into position. Connect the dryer vent to the elbow and secure it using a clamp and a screwdriver.
11. Plug the dryer back in.
Resources:
Richard recommends keeping the dryer vents as short as possible to prevent lint from accumulating and clogging the vent. All of the pieces Richard used to install the vent, including the duct tape, the rigid pipe, elbows, and the duct cover are all available at home centers.
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Homeowners have a virtual truckload of questions for us on smaller projects, and we're ready to answer. Ask This Old House solves the steady stream of home improvement problems faced by our viewers-and we make house calls! Ask This Old House features some familiar faces from This Old House, including Kevin O'Connor, general contractor Tom Silva, plumbing and heating expert Richard Trethewey, and landscape contractor Roger Cook.
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How to Vent a Clothes Dryer | Ask This Old House
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I just absolutely LOVE this channel. And I would watch "This Old House" as a young man. Believe it or not I think it molded my brain to understand basic homeowner maintenance. Now that I'm a husband and I have my family to take care of this channel really was the father I didn't have. So thanks to ALL the Men and Woman whom have helped me without even knowing it.
Glad they mentioned the lint trap. That's a big one. I clean my lint trap off after every load.
common knowledge
Your supposed to
The guys from This old House are so knowledgeable about every aspect of home improvement, and construction. The show has been around over 40 years wow!
Two things that, quite frankly I'm surprised were missing. Firstly, *never* drill into a wall without first confirming the absence of any wiring or plumbing. Secondly, though the new vent duct was a snug fit, the *gaps should still be filled* with expanding foam, both inside and out.
Also, a long straight piece of wire hanger chuckled in a drill works a treat for drilling pilot holes through walls. No expense for a single-use drill bit, and the hole made is extremely small and easy to mask in the event of a mistake.
Lastly, the core from the hole drilled for the new duct makes a great plug for the abandoned vent penetration.
Don't worry Milwaukee powertools are insulated to protect from electric shocks
John Coloe the foam may have restricted the unit from moving to service, but I would have liked to at least see them put some silicone around the termination inside and out! They should have said in the video to make sure that there is no plumbing, studs and especially electrical before you drill a hole in the wall. I wonder how many people have had disasters because of the lack of safety warnings since this video came out!
John Coloe I guess they feel if your not smart enough to check for plumbing, studs, and electricity that you wouldn’t even attempt doing it yourself 😂🤣😂🤣😂
How do you check for plumbing and electrical work before? Do you need to drill a hole big enough to peek in?
@@scottymahoney My guess would be to start by drilling from the inside. Once you get through the dry wall layer you stop to check behind it to see what's there.
Also, it would have been important for them to make sure they weren't going through any studs on the exterior wall as they might be structural. They got lucky here.
At 2:31 there is a little kid boogying down the street on his scooter and it brought me joy and made me smile.
I would recommend a critter cover as Richard mentioned. I never had any trouble with birds and the dryer vent until one Spring I found out they were filling the vent pipe up like crazy with grass and twigs. I cleared it out and 2 days later they had almost filled it up halfway into the house again. On went the critter cover over the exterior vent. No more of that!
One cold winter, I had a small bird come down my chimney and ended up inside my oil-fired water heater. It smelled like roasted chicken
I like the reverse drill method for going through thin siding. I burnt out my corded drill doing this normal forward mode.
Very important to keep the vent cleaned out. I snaked my dryer vent out a few months ago and replaced the busted exterior cover, I'm lucky that I didn't start a fire there was so much lint in there. Also that guy was lucky that he could vent it straight outside, that his laundry was on an exterior wall. My house its a really long 20' run.
I think caulking the top and sides of the new vent cover would be a good idea.
I'm just here for the "Why didn't they" "I would have" "The proper way is" "They should have" comments. I leave satisfied.
Haha right
Did he drill right through an outside supporting wall stud...hahahaha. he should have, fill in the blanks....
Lol, “ can you believe” this guys a puss
This clip is only so long. Going over every detail turns it into a 3 hour show. And of course nothing ever goes wrong or tool forgotten but you can learn alot
I read the comments for much the same reason, just cause someone can make a video doesn't mean they know what their doing, I often learn more from the comments than the videos.
I always love reading the comments on these videos everyone has something to complain about
Matt Limbs Well you should know any RUclips video regardless of the topic will attract those who want to complain about the tiniest of things. What a sad world we live in.
@@venividivici4253 there always reasonable complaints I think he did a good job but people complaining that he didn’t put caulk on the vent cover and drilled straight through half the stud are right he should have checks id there was a stud and should have sealed the vent cover with caulking
The dryer and washer would drive me nuts that far from the wall
Every unit is that far to account for the duct work. If yours is pressed up against the wall good chance its crushing the flex house and may cause a fire due to buildup.
Actually mine is not that far and no hose is being crushed. You just need to think outside the box a little and use the cavity in the wall to tuck in the piping. Then use a section of flex hose to be able to pull out the dryer and disconnect when needed. Not saying my dryer is touching the wall, but it’s not that far like in the video.
Mine vents straight out the back through the wall. They could build a shelf right above it and make it not as noticeable
I can't tell for certain, but I believe that Kenmore can be side vented which would have been ideal for this situation.
Flex hose should not be allowed on any dryer period. There is no reason a dryer can’t always be vented with rigid duct. Flex hose is the lazy way out and only leads to problems.
The best outside vent cover is Lambro 289W Dryer Vent Seal, 4". Easy to install easy to disassemble and clean. Full 4” opening if you run a brush or leaf blower from laundry room. I have installed for 3 bathroom vents as well and zero back flow. Do paint the them as not really UV tolerant.
Must correct myself. The product I have used is actually “ Heartland Natural Energy Saving Dryer Vent”.
Amount the other issues stated in the comments I personally would have put a short piece of flex on just in case the wife or kids shift the drier at some point down the road. Also it would make hooking it up much easier because it could be pulled out a foot or so when hooking it up.
Very nice video. This is exactly what I had to do but a lot less length, only 22 feet.
I did a few things different.
I used a Dryer Dock (quick connect). I mounted 1/2 to the wall and the other half to the dryer so no tools needed to clean the dryer and duct once per year. Just 1/4" twist and it disconnects.
The second thing I did was to insulate the dryer pipe as it gets down to 35 degrees below zero here at times. You can add a spring loaded damper but that is a place to allow lint to build up.
Third is to add wheel trolley, that when I tighten up one screw and the dryer is able to roll out. Loosen the screw and it sits on the feet again.
This video shows the electric outlet higher than the top of the dryer. I put mine below and added a shelf to stop things from falling behind the machines. The washer connections do have to be that height but not the dryer's.
Because I live in an arctic environment I use outside air brought in through a heat exchange to supply the dryer with air from outside and not causing negative air pressure which brings in air from windows and doors as you use the dryer. Outside air is pulled into the basement through exchange, then the air is brought up to laundry room via 4" Easy Fit Connector. This has a 4" round, then transitions to oval to fit in a standard 3 1/2" wall at a 90 degrees. This is the same principle as the newer 96+ furnaces that pull in outside air for combustion.
I'm guessing the person installing he vent got paid by the foot. :D
Was this man a Electrician?
Weird I watched this video and looked at the comments and saw my name lol. I’m not the only one ha
Lmao
Uhh#
@@christianguevara3122 lmao
Excellent job as always, I can't believe that would have been the original design from the builder.
Bet that dryer works amazing now
what? no just no.
@@Lurod_ i'd bet there's a performance improvement. Reducing a 37 foot run to about 18 inches, with only one one 90 degree turn-- has to make a difference.
The bit in the drill when he clamped the pipe to the dryer was from a multi bit screwdriver!!! Haha love it.
Thanks for this video. I wasn't sure which faces to make while I drill through the wall of the house.
i think they took out part of a stud, which is probably ok
@@honeypot-pd2oc What? 4:08 I think you misread what I said.
The shortest distance should be required when installing a dryer vent. I can't wait to make this change. Thanks for such a great video
Found a great vent connector on RUclips. It is called MagVent MV90. It eliminates the tangle of flex duct behind your dryer. Flex duct is nothing but a lint trap and in some areas it is against fire code . It was the best $68 I ever spent. It paid for itself in one month's reduction in my electric bill. That tangle of flex duct was so restrictive that it was packed with lint and it took two cycles to dry blue jeans. Now a full load of blue jeans dries in one cycle. Magvent is ingeniously simple and easy to install. Bye, bye flex duct.
My dryer had provisions for a side discharge. Made it easy to get it right up against st the wall.
It always amazes me on how advanced the USA are and then alot of household appliances/electrical fittings are so old fashioned. Ours sits to the wall and maybe once every few months I'll empty the water chamber down the sink and then no 4inch hole through my house.
Water chamber? What are you talking about? Our dryers in the US don’t produce water...
@@athhud from the condition your dryer will be spitting out that pipe.go check out an indesit idc85k there called condensing dryers. You don't need a pipe. You just have to empty the plastic tray/container every now and then.
Interesting technology that I wasn’t aware of and is quite expensive in the US currently. Fortunately our power is cheap enough that a basic ducted dryer will never cost enough to run/maintain to make up the cost difference for the condensing dryers at their current prices. Of course if you go buy Samsung’s latest top of the line R2D2-C3PO $50k dryer that will break before it’s 3rd birthday, the Condensing units make a lot more financial sense.
Do the condensing dryers not have a means of dumping water into the washer drain? I would despise having to remember to empty a water tray.
Well done, I would have taken care that there were no obstructions in the wall before cutting holes by probing thru the interior drywall with a screwdriver, you can never be too careful.
I know I would have hit a stud, especially drilling that close to the inside corner.
@@tomcook4790 HE DID
@@tomcook4790 I did too.
I did this same thing to my fire hazard of a vent added the new galvanized duct and the dryer works on one cycle when its loaded with towels or jeans . Been a fan since the age of 5 now over 40 TOH makes being a diyer easier.....
Good video, straight to the point. I wonder why he didnt try to avoid the stud?
i would of tried to avoid the stud on the corner of the wall if it was me. I would of also used the flexible pipe to be able to move the dryer around if needed.
Never use flexible duct on a dryer even semi flex isn’t recommended use solid that way the duct doesn’t become a giant lint trap and you don’t have to clean it every 3 to 6 month or you could get fire where as solid duct needs cleaning every 1-2 years
And yeah he should be avoided the stud he drilled straight through not just a bit just straight dang in the middle although 1 shouldn’t be to big a deal it’s still a bad idea
Avoid flex duct whenever possible. Hard pipe is much more stable and easier to clean with drill brushes.
Check the dryer installation instructions for maximum vent length. My last vented dryer allowed only 12 feet with 2 elbows. Even with the new aluminum vent, you need to check/clean every year, minimum. The dryer blower wheel may also be plugged with lint, depends on how many cotton fabrics you dry in the machine. Cotton is bad for lint. Buy a condensing or heat pump dryer instead, they’re ventless. Use a clothesline on nice days during the summer.
Ventless doesn’t mean lintless. Heat pump dryers are a terrific idea, but some reviews indicate that lint can build up inside the cabinet.
@@lorijain3398 You’re right, Lori. I bought a condenser type, not a heat pump. I have to maintain the condenser section at least once per month and lint has twice blocked the drain tube so these units haven’t solved the lint problem entirely. I had to get a drum roller replaced about 5 years in, the repair involved removal of the lid so I could see inside the cabinet. Fortunately, there was no lint in there. I’m happy to clean the condenser and surrounding area monthly and I like the idea that the dryer isn’t exhausting indoor air outside.
Only issue drilling that close to corner of the wall is he went through a portion of the stud. You can see it on outside view walls aren't that thick.
Just a reminder, dryer lint is flammable. It's like a fine dust that gets everywhere.
I've seen poor dryer venting lead to fires. Many times a dryer is located near a gas fired furnace or gas fired water heater.
It is important to make sure there is no dryer lint accumulating outside of the venting.
Apartments are notorious for having a laundry closet that is also contains the gas water.
Lint builds up, water heater fires up.....boom, fire.
Venting through an attic where there is a gas fired furnace can pose the same danger.
no bead of silicone where the dryer vent meets the vinyl siding?
Towmy would not be happy
youd be surprised how tradesmen just tell the homeowner to call another tradesman bc they are plumbers not painters.
Thought the same thing but I'm not very craftsman leveled. It's pretty normal to bead silicone when matching 2 non similar materials ya? Plus will a plastic shield really keep squirrels out?
Plus that's now a good way for cold air to enter
@@silverSScamaro or hot ass air/moisture/allergens
edit: and *bugs*
It looks like that hole saw cut through the wall stud. I'd be concerned doing that if it's a load bearing wall.
Red and Green would have just duct taped a 1hp blower fan in-line to force the gunk out.
But this works too~
Great work. I've gotta fix the former Joe homeowner's last duct work job by venting right out the pre-existing wall vent instead of out the drywall, up 6ft, across 3 ft. and down the soffit vent. Unbelievable how incapable of thought some people are.
Dryer manufacturers need to make a dryer vent that exits on the side or the top, so you can push the dryer all the way against the wall.
Simple fix yet critical for safety. Nice video!
Ducttape, fore everything except ducts.
Unless you get them to install a ducted mini split in your attic. They used hella duct tape on one of their other videos.
I was wrong. It's a dehumidifier.
ruclips.net/video/D3wd2yVwzvE/видео.html
Duck and duct genius
@@Type2DarylBTeas q
IDaryl Boord yess
Shortest distance between two points is straight line right through studs on load bearing wall. Lucky he didn't snag any romex as well. Quite surprised by this video. Come to expect more from TOH.
Murica where houses are so cheaply made, that you have to fear it will collapse from a little hole in your wall lmao
Short radius elbows are available if someone prefers the dryer closer to the wall. I believe that I would have used some metal flex duct on this one so I could slide the dryer in and out for maintenance with no hassle.
Contractors have to work to code.
The lack of metal flex duct tells you that it is not allowed.
Don't use flexible ductwork for dryers. It's rough on the airstream and collects lint.
Not to code. Worse, plastic flex has caused fires; I don't know why it is even sold.
@@greyfelthitchhiker159
It comes down to corrupt Government Tyranny.
They make a product like plastic flex pipe, or double edged knives illegal, yet allow corporations to sell them to unsuspecting consumers, then fine them in the case of plastic flex, or put them in prison in the case of the double edged knife, all the while allowing to go without penalty, the ones that sold the illegal product, and had possession of the illegal product to begin with.
I know a guy that went to prison after purchasing a hunting knife with a serrated edge on the back of the blade. He was pulled over within minutes of leaving the store, had the knives on his car seat and when the officer asked him about it, he said he did not know which one to keep and was going to ask his dad. Rather than following him to the store where he purchased the knife and returning it as well as ordering the store to take them off the shelf, the officer arrested him and he went to prison on illegal possession.
An attorney that was worth his legal degree, would have had him walking out the door with money in his pocket for entrapment or argued that a law that allows the sale of an illegal hunting knife is unconstitutional.
His record has been expunged at this point, but still, the fact that he went to prison when the store was allowed to sell it to him, that is just unreal.
Flexible duct shouldn’t be used in any situation concerning a dryer.
The problem is most laundry areas only leave space for a contortionist to operate
Barely have enough room to open my front load dryer door while still standing directly in front of it...same for most other modern homes I look at. Either architects have no concept of daily reality, or it's a strategic design to squeeze more square footage into other areas of the home (because home buyers don't think about basic things like this during a walk thru).
@@LMBee00 Private residences aren't built to ADA, nor are most rentals/apartments for that matter. The laws of ADA/Fair Housing are a whole semester worth of discussion.
Ur so right
You are cdoing s
Haha so true
Put a couple of blocks of wood, or similar, cut to fit between the washer / dryer to the wall baseboard to prevent them from moving back toward the wall. Unbalanced shaking or bumping into them will try to do this in time.
Also, get an indoor drying rack. Clothes dry quickly in the low humidity of winter.
I bought a ventless heat pump (runs on 120 volts) Miele dryer last year and won't go back to the old style vented dryer I had before.
LOL now there is a 1 foot gape between the dryer and the wall. Great fix! Perfect fit!
Same gap when he had the shitty flex duct and it is only 8" from the wall.
In some states, it is against code to place that below a vented soffit. Same for the fireplace.
Glad they sealed all connections with foil tape. Most people forget that any leak is a leak. Especially the vent from the water heater.
Edit: spelling
I can't understand why people/homeowners don't clean the dryer lint trap after every load!! First off it's a fire hazard and 2nd it makes the dryer work harder to dry clothes causing premature motor failure!!
Easy for you. Try replacing the dryer vent that is 3 stories up. Without a 40 foot ladder
Marvelous tips and tricks as always.
1st Dryers are usually rated for max 50ft, (elbows are 10 feet each on 90) anymore then that a booster fan can be used to prevent "a lint trap". Second, they must live in a only warm climate cause usually the first 4 feet from the exterior are required to be insulated to prevent condensation buildup on the pipe and 3rd NEVER use screws when running a dryer vent as that causes a lint buildup without a doubt. 4. I wouldn't use that cage around the dryer hood cause lint could buildup on that as well. 5. I see people complaining about the distance from the wall, this is an after the fact quick fix for the best/shortest run, normally its run through the wall behind it unless its a load bearing wall then usually goes down into the basement and out the rim board
Up in the north we use the condenser dryer to keep the heat in the house (in winter). Still a good fit so you dont have to put in a vent, but not good if its working against your AC for cold. We usually hang our laundry outside in the summer if not need to tumble (or door open). Not southern states compatible i guess. :)
*Face Palm*. I did my dryer vent and I know what to use and what not to use. Then again I am a pipe welder so I know what is considered a restricted flow in a pipe. Bends and rough flexible tin shit you can buy. Best to make it with one strait piece and with very little bends. NO uphills!
Now watch my video on how to clean out the dryer to prevent a dryer fire! But really, I came here because my new house has no vent in the basement all! They moved the dryer to the main floor on the opposite side of the house and I too did not want to run 37 ft across the floor joists to connect and go through a closet. Now to drill a pilot hole and see where Im ending up under a low clearance deck before it snows again!
“Reverse”?! Who would have known. Thank you! Subscribed.
Shouldnt there be some caulk outside where new vent meets the siding or doesnt it rain there?
it only rains on the other side of the house
Nick Stosz absolutely!!
Yeah cause any water that runs down will make its way into the wall. I always make sure to add caulking for every type of dryer vent I install for good measure
That is almost the most absurd dryer vent configuration I've ever seen.
They probably wanted to save the heat in their house/basement.
Best show ever.
I wish more people would look into heat pump dryers. Most people don't realize that an electric dryer in your house is one of the most energy consuming devices you'll ever find. Using a heat pump dryer means that it will use 25% of the energy and you don't need a vent! They are great in situations where retrofitting a dryer and installing a vent is not ideal like needing to drill through 8 in of a concrete basement wall like the city wanted me to do in a basement apartment I was building. I just said I don't need a vent if the dryer doesn't have one! Problem solved
Nice job Richard you drilled right through the corner stud.
You guys are great I most love watching HVAC related stuff. Keep it up!
They didn't mention that the dryer should also work better and more efficiently since it will be easier for the hot air to blow out.
Guys quit complaining. Every house is different and this is just general advice. Your home may vary.
Only issue I can see is he didn't check for electrical wires or studs in the wall before he drilled. You never know what you might hit inside a closed wall.
Who the hell doesn't clean out the dryer lint trap every time they use it?
Apparently this dude
@@trevordoeshalloween5994 Apparently so.
regularly yeah, every time is optional
Steve Neumeyer Not for me. It gets cleaned out every time. That’s common sense!
@@nickhuber9627 f'n A
That was crazy dyer duck work I ever seen
how about patching the hole in the drywall and the hole in the floor, Richard!
That's not the plumbers job! They just make the holes
dropn loads bs.
@@zack9912000 how many plumbers do you know that finish and paint drywall repairs? I never found one
@@steverone7623 Plumbers love making holes that's for sure.
dropn loads most around here do, basic painting and hole patching they do isn’t hard to do at all
I wouldn't use the cheap plastic vent outside they don't last long get the heavy duty steel vent your local Homedepot or Lowes will have it.
Totally a improper venting job. 6-8 foot of venting is minimal . Some back pressure is necessary for the heat to stay in the dryer long enough to dry the clothes. Just like a maximum length ,there is a minimum length.
How do you make sure you don't hit electrical behind wall?
Only way to set dryer flush with wall is to have that duct roughed in behind finish wall with maybe 3” past finish wall so you can snug the band once mounted
Any schmo can drill through vinyl siding. Why don't they show examples of going through brick siding?
25 ft. is the maximum laundry exhaust length, and its shortened with every turn. This one was insane!
nice work richard
15 ft of pipe and two elbows max is the 25 ft which you are correct for rule of thumb.
The problem with that critter cover is lint gets stuck in it and it will clog the vent
No, not as long as you wipe it once a month. And those are life savers, believe me. Had a squirrel get in once
DXSUCKIT1990 I’m just talking about the cage add on. Wouldn’t the built in flaps do the job?
@@bixbabble3935 not when it is running and not with squirrel, raccoon or even cats. Those animals are, and I have a cat so I am not saying they are nasty, like rats. If the head can fit, so too does the body
I thought the flaps acted like a valve to keep like bugs and the like out and the screen to keep squirrels out. But will the plastic screen really stop squirrels?
Jon They could probably chew though it
Well you didn’t say anything about the studs in the wall! What if someone try’s this and hits a stud?
Brandon Jackson they just drilled right through them in the video lol I would not recommend doing it the way they did it normally these guys are pretty smart but that video was just poor carpentry
Isaac Mcguire yeah that video was pretty bad. But oh well.
Studs are either 16 or 24 inches on center. I'm pretty sure he went through half of one being that close to the corner.
Didn’t even check for wiring either didn’t put silicone on it either
Also wiring
I am addicted to these videos
I thought my vent run of 20 feet was bad but not as bad as this. I have witness marks on my vent pipe sections to make it easier to put back together after taking apart to clean.
Same even worse then my interior vent.
should have removed siding installed j block to match siding. that cover does not sit flush to the siding. potential leak
Wow. Didn't even check to see if there was plumbing, wires, venting in the walls! Pretty risky!
4:36 did he just bore right through a stud there?
Maybe electrical wire no plumbing pipes it’s exterior wall hehe
@@igorfabyanchuk9407 wires would be higher than 6" also
Oh great we got lucky! Plumbers creed is to respect no structure, even when there is no gain.
jej3451 yes he did.
Its great to see Richard use a drill other than that toy looking festool tommy always uses
RED NATION!
@@Mr.Pop0 yellow & black is better
I'll take a German "toy" over a Chinese "tool" ;) Granted, there's nothing wrong with that Milwaukee but it definitely isn't what it used to be.
@@oambrosia I would too but I can buy a full set of tools for the price of one festool
@@Mr.Pop0 Yes, but really they're not THAT expensive. Figure about 10 years ago they were selling a lithium-powered drill with a brushless motor and electronic clutch for just under $500. That's not bad considering basically nobody else was selling that at the time. Plus German labor will always be far more expensive than Chinese labor :)
In england our dryers use pvc flex pipe to vent how ever I use aluminium the sort you would find on an extractor fan or cooker hood
That 40' detour through the basement was insane,.. LOL
yeah my draw dropped
Nice grass!
For the guy working alone, flex. Duct would save so much headache trying to line that up perfectly.
I thought I was the only one who had houses with weird stuff like that. I feel better.
I wonder how many times the old dryer exhaust caused the high temp fuse to blow!!
what did they do to determine there was no electric wire where they drilled the pilot hole and final larger hole? and unless you're positive there's no electric wire in that area, holding the metal part of the drill is a bad idea. right?
The vinyl should have been uninstalled around the vent. Install a j-box flange dedigned for exhaust vents. Cut the house wrap, flashing tape on the flange overlap the house wrap and tuck tape just like flashing a window. Cut and reinstall the vinyl siding.
Now you can drill and install a proper vent over the j-flange no caulking required. Caulking against vinyl siding is no good. When water gets behind it you need proper flashing and house wrap. Spray foam around pipe from the interior if desired to keep cold air out.
I woulda loved to see him make that connection on a stackable inside a closet.
I use to deliver appliances for Circuit City years ago and the stackables were nightmares and 10 times worse when in a closet. I spent a lot of money on therapy.
These dryer vents can be really time consuming, as you can't drill multiple holes. Sometimes piping can look awkward and jumbled by someone avoiding things in walls, and where it vents outdoors.
Take a 2-gal. bucket, drill 2-inch holes throughout the top and sides, drop it into a 5-gal. bucket with a similar set of holes drilled, lay a cut, round screen inside on top of the 2-gal. bucket. Then add a flexible duct from the dryer through the bucket lid, and voila!, no need to put another hole in your house, and you gain a free humidifier once a week. 😊💪⭐⭐⭐
I replaced one of these (still, admittedly- nowhere near this long or indirectly situated to the exterior) in an antebellum house owned by a friend last year. The commonality I found was that both extant vents and openings is that they traveled down and meandered (as I said- this one still a great deal more than the one I replaced) UNDER the house.
Now, if I’m correct, the venting used in bygone years was much more substantial- I.e. hard, solid, thicker metal, vs. the foiled wire tubing that is currently in use… could it have had something to do with some benefit derived from heating or assisting the heating methods of these homes at the time the former ductwork was put in place? Either that or that the ductwork was inherited from the installation of something other than a dryer at one time?The more substantial duct, if not insulated- and what I removed under the house I worked in was not, mostly, at least, underneath the floor- it seems it would’ve conducted and distributed the heat underneath the house.
During the summer, it probably wouldn’t have been enough to have even noticed, but seems like it could’ve made quite a big difference during the cold months of the year.
That’s the only plausible theory I could think of for another (even longer) stretch of ductwork as such, being similar in an older house as well when all of the newer ones I’ve seen from the ‘50s and later go straight out horizontally.
This must be a house down south. If you cut thru my vapor barrier and ran a pipe like that I'd have mold growth in the first heating cycle also liked how he didn't check for studs or header jack studs for window that he just whacked out with his holesaw. Would have made for a good show if he hit the 10-3 dryer cord burried in wall as well. Sometimes these shows are a comedy
Maybe i am wrong but it looks like he went right through a 2 x 4 when he made that big hole.
And what about not sealing around that new vent.
He did lol like cut more than have it
4:37 cut through a stud!
Right?😂 That can't be good.
No checks for plumbing, wiring, or structure in the wall? No repair for the vapor barrier? No seal around the new hole? No gasket/ caulk on the vent cap? No concern for huge gap behind the dryer?
Hmm. Maybe this isn't the most complete advice.
A Plumbers license is a license to ignore all other building codes.
My thoughts, exactly.
They're not going to take the time to show everything in a little video like this. That would take an hour.
@TheOtherBill Perhaps, but they could've mentioned some of those important issues. After all, I presume it didn't take you an hour to read my comment.
Also, what good is advice that makes a home-owner just confident enough to be dangerous?
If someone doesn't know that then just mentioning to do it would be useless since they wouldn't know how anyway and probably don't have the proper equipment to do so. Those people should just pay to get it done.
Answer for almost every problem I have met. Great help
they should take out the old duct 1st and use that for the new connection
That was all fine and good but you need a filtered diverter for winter so you do not waste the moist heat yet no lint in home. You only did half the job and you know it.
The video I didn't know I needed last year. Thanks!
I’m more curious why they weren’t concerned with ripping through a load bear wall stud. It looks like the caught 2 of them.
Steve Larsen definitely got at least one stud in that corner.
Steve Larsen NFG
@Steve Larsen Plumbers don't know or care about structure. If you leave them alone for a minute, they'll destroy the structural integrity of a home just to save themselves a little work or materials.
ncooty , I’ve seen plumbers run water lines through air ducts instead of rerouting the pipes.
Hi Jiggles... That is the name of the dryer vent duct cause it jiggles and wiggles.😂😂