Couple of points from an ex diamond driller with 20 years under my belt. No1. No dust mask seen. Brick, concrete and blocks contain silica. This is rapidly become the next asbestos replacement killer. Not something you want in your lungs. No2. Use a dust vac or a water suppression kit. Failing that, wet the wall down with water before you start and regularly throughout the drilling process. Rinsing the dust out will reduce the drilling time. No3. Flushing with water will cool the diamond segments which will prevent them from being debraised from the barrel. No4. Segments that become detached whilst drilling, must be removed from the cutting face. If left in they will fetch the remaining segments off rendering the tool useless. Snapping the core out with a screwdriver will aid this. No5. Slow drilling can be sped up by hitting the tip of the segments to open up the diamonds again. Several good belts with a large file on each segment head should be enough. No6. Should the core get stuck in the barrel. Turn the drill so that the core can drop out. Gently tap the outside of the core barrel all the way around with a spanner. Keep rotating the barrel and the core will drop out eventually. Hitting the barrel to hard will resort in a distorted barrel and lead to further binding whilst drilling. No7. Once the core is through, rinse the brickwork down with clean water - this will prevent staining. No8. Allow wet slurry time to dry out. Trying to brush it up will only spread the mess further. It will brush up once dry. No9. Whilst working at height do not attempt freehand drilling. Hire a drilling rig which you bolt to the wall via a plastic plug and locking dowl pin - it’s much safer than being thrown off a ladder at height - trust me on that!…….
One little tip that I use to ensure you don't get plaster blow out on the inside is to use the core bit on the inside to just cut through that first half inch or so of plaster. Then move to the outside to cut the hole. The pilot hole will ensure that the two cuts line up perfectly, and as you have already cut through the plaster on the inside you don't get it blowing out as the core goes through. Sure, it does make a little dust on the inside but worth it to keep the plaster in one piece. 👍🏼
@@cuebj Potential cheaper solution? Henry + bag. Henry likes to eat all things, and rolls down stairs well, and are still pretty cheap. Mines 25yrs old and for the last 7 has been sucking up everything from masses of brick dust to lose cold ashes around the fire. Remarkable machines, especially the older ones.
I've saved a few quid having a go myself, which I didn't really have the confidence to do before watching videos like this. Nice one DIY guy, keep them coming!
If you are drilling through something a bit tougher and maybe using a long extension, try drilling 4 holes at the top, bottom, left and right outer parts of the hole you are trying to cut. This makes the core bit easier to drill through the wall as it hasn’t got as much friction due to the holes. I’ve done this many times, it makes it a lot quicker and easier particularly if you are in a tight spot. Try it out.
It’s a good idea to put a slight rise, (out to in) on the hole, not level when to be used for vapour exhaust. Any moisture left in the ducting when machine stops will drain to the outside of the wall.
I really enjoyed the way you explained it. Smart and clean. Only for safety put on a mask too beside the safety glasses. For protecting of all that dust entering to your lungs. If you do this on daily basis it can lead to nasty lung diseases.
Followed these instructions for my first ever core drill for a slightly larger vent for wood stove. Done exactly what it said on the tin. Hard work. Brick dust is immense. Mask, goggles, ear defenders. Hardest part was the start of the core drill wanting to bounce about but start on lowest speed of the sds drill without hammer. As you get more confidence increase speed gradually but have patience and take a breather. Keeping the drill level was difficult but I did it. Couldn’t have done it without the video and used the erbaur bits and £60 sds drill from Screwfix. Thanks for the video chief.
Someone below mentioned it, kickback control, but didn’t quite get to the optimal solution. Left or Right there is always a drill-handle orientation that will let you catch the kickback, which is the only way the clutch will ever engage. For the hole here, rotate the whole drill clockwise 90, then release the handle and rotate that another 90 so it is pointing straight up. Now you can engage the drill with your right hand and the handle is such that kickback with be straight into your palm, allowing the clutch to trigger rather than having it rip away from your hand. Nice video!
Ok that's acceptable what you've stated But I did just that job some years back with a standard hammer drill. Yes I got got some slight kickback but I got the job done without any broken bones or bruises. Yes I took my time.
Young guy I was working with drilled a core hole using a standard SDS. Drill kicked back and he tore his rotator cuff in his shoulder. A month off work and it’s at least 5 years ago now and never been right since 😖. Core drill for a core drill bit every time.
Great instructive video, thanks. I have a query. I got an Erbauer, well reviewed on Screwfix, but the pilot bit (tapered) does not seem to fit very well and wobbles, so of course when drilling with the core drill, that wobbled too making a mess of the wall. Do you find that the pilot bit that fits into the arbor can wobble around? Thanks.
Great tip about running the pilot bit all the way through and core drilling back in from the outside. Wish I had thought of that doing all my room vents 🤣🤣
I can tell you from experience that the core bit / drive shaft you are using will bind together after heavy use. It is then virtually impossible to separate the shaft from the bit and that means you cannot change bits thereafter. Before use I would recommend making and breaking the shaft/bit joint and also using copper grease or similar to make subsequent release of the joint more likely. I was drilling foundation wall that consisted of heavy-duty concrete blocks laid on their sides. The second point I would make is that the stub shaft being used will not get you through such long traverses. Eastablish whether you need a shaft extension before committing to task as separate purchase of long shaft is expensive. If these extensions binds and won’t release you will have an even greater problem to solve. I eventually resorted to stitch drilling after first creating the first short penetration using diamond core. That worked well and was faster but not a neat finish on the exit side of the hole.
Great video i am drilling through a wall this week for extractor fan great tip drill out pilot hole first from inside and then drill from outside due to dust 👍👏
Dust aside - if kick back is most likely going into the internal wall from cavity. Would it not make more sense at this point to drill inside outwards? Some does but avoids kickback and also blow out risk?
I'm looking for an SDS drill that can drill big holes. The SDS drill you link to is actually the one I was thinking of getting but everyone says it's not going to be able to cope with core bits over about 20mm and I need a corded drill for anything over this. I notice you use a corded drill in this video, what's my best bet for site and domestic work as I don't really want to have to buy two for the different power ratings? Cheers.
Before i screw the diamond core to the arbour i put some 20mm electrical lock nuts on the arbour that way the core cutter can never wind up tight on the arbour thread and easy to remove.
I have the same set of Erbauer drills. It is a bargain buy. If you purchase the 3 core drills and the mandrels separately it would cost double what you pay for this and you wouldn't even get the case. I have a 117 core to drill tomorrow in the loft. fortunately it's a double skin of breeze block with render on the out side so it won't take long. I drill the outside render first then drill the last inch from the inside to avoid blowout.
For the pilot hole bit (8 mm) does that bit need to be diamond tip also? Or can I use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit to drill the pilot hole?
Good explanation! A little advice: in the future, try to move the handle in 90 degrees to right or left. In case of stuck or something you will control the drill much easier Good luck!
Drill mode only, no hammer action - is it only specifically for this core bit u're using, or any type of core bits out there? my instructor teach me to use hammer drill function. But, i think that hammer mode will destroy the bits. So im confused 😅
Corbett? Need Barker, too. Good tips, which we used a few years ago. For the more casual DiYer, this is a case where hiring the gear makes sense as you might just do it once. The Erbauer kit is pretty good, even for pro tradespeople who don't do this all the time. If it's a tiled wall, use a tile grinder to remove tiles with about 5mm extra radius and cut hole a few inches deep from the tile side first, then cut from the outside. The pilot hole ensures the two holes meet up. You might have to hack insulation from the cavity as the bit gets clogged
8:10 bro use the pivot hole to drill with the diamond core through the plaster/cast on both sides, once you start hitting the brick go outside if your prefer. But using the diamond core drill bit on both sides makes that damage almost non existent.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Couple of points from an ex diamond driller with 20 years under my belt.
No1. No dust mask seen. Brick, concrete and blocks contain silica. This is rapidly become the next asbestos replacement killer. Not something you want in your lungs.
No2. Use a dust vac or a water suppression kit. Failing that, wet the wall down with water before you start and regularly throughout the drilling process. Rinsing the dust out will reduce the drilling time.
No3. Flushing with water will cool the diamond segments which will prevent them from being debraised from the barrel.
No4. Segments that become detached whilst drilling, must be removed from the cutting face. If left in they will fetch the remaining segments off rendering the tool useless. Snapping the core out with a screwdriver will aid this.
No5. Slow drilling can be sped up by hitting the tip of the segments to open up the diamonds again. Several good belts with a large file on each segment head should be enough.
No6. Should the core get stuck in the barrel. Turn the drill so that the core can drop out. Gently tap the outside of the core barrel all the way around with a spanner. Keep rotating the barrel and the core will drop out eventually. Hitting the barrel to hard will resort in a distorted barrel and lead to further binding whilst drilling.
No7. Once the core is through, rinse the brickwork down with clean water - this will prevent staining.
No8. Allow wet slurry time to dry out. Trying to brush it up will only spread the mess further. It will brush up once dry.
No9. Whilst working at height do not attempt freehand drilling. Hire a drilling rig which you bolt to the wall via a plastic plug and locking dowl pin - it’s much safer than being thrown off a ladder at height - trust me on that!…….
One little tip that I use to ensure you don't get plaster blow out on the inside is to use the core bit on the inside to just cut through that first half inch or so of plaster. Then move to the outside to cut the hole. The pilot hole will ensure that the two cuts line up perfectly, and as you have already cut through the plaster on the inside you don't get it blowing out as the core goes through. Sure, it does make a little dust on the inside but worth it to keep the plaster in one piece. 👍🏼
Thanks for sharing 😀
In your dreams mate
@@alemgas
What is in his dreams?
For pros, Makita do a dust extraction accessory for their diamond core drills - very expensive and heavy duty. As heavy duty DiYer, I do what you do
@@cuebj Potential cheaper solution? Henry + bag. Henry likes to eat all things, and rolls down stairs well, and are still pretty cheap. Mines 25yrs old and for the last 7 has been sucking up everything from masses of brick dust to lose cold ashes around the fire. Remarkable machines, especially the older ones.
Glueing a small level to my drill was a game-changer for me.
I've saved a few quid having a go myself, which I didn't really have the confidence to do before watching videos like this. Nice one DIY guy, keep them coming!
Glad I could help! Thanks!
You sir are a Godsend. Instructions clear and concise. That is a job I have dreaded but you have given me the confidence to do it myself. Many thanks.
If you are drilling through something a bit tougher and maybe using a long extension, try drilling 4 holes at the top, bottom, left and right outer parts of the hole you are trying to cut. This makes the core bit easier to drill through the wall as it hasn’t got as much friction due to the holes. I’ve done this many times, it makes it a lot quicker and easier particularly if you are in a tight spot. Try it out.
It’s a good idea to put a slight rise, (out to in) on the hole, not level when to be used for vapour exhaust. Any moisture left in the ducting when machine stops will drain to the outside of the wall.
Nice tip, not something I’ve ever done.
Came here to say the same thing. Probably precautionary more than anything but it can’t hurt!
Absolutely! Very important that condensation finds its way out and not in!
But then if you're drilling through for something like a humidistat, the fan doesn't sit flush to the wall because the hole is on the wonk.
I really enjoyed the way you explained it.
Smart and clean.
Only for safety put on a mask too beside the safety glasses.
For protecting of all that dust entering to your lungs.
If you do this on daily basis it can lead to nasty lung diseases.
Followed these instructions for my first ever core drill for a slightly larger vent for wood stove. Done exactly what it said on the tin. Hard work. Brick dust is immense. Mask, goggles, ear defenders. Hardest part was the start of the core drill wanting to bounce about but start on lowest speed of the sds drill without hammer. As you get more confidence increase speed gradually but have patience and take a breather. Keeping the drill level was difficult but I did it. Couldn’t have done it without the video and used the erbaur bits and £60 sds drill from Screwfix. Thanks for the video chief.
Someone below mentioned it, kickback control, but didn’t quite get to the optimal solution. Left or Right there is always a drill-handle orientation that will let you catch the kickback, which is the only way the clutch will ever engage. For the hole here, rotate the whole drill clockwise 90, then release the handle and rotate that another 90 so it is pointing straight up. Now you can engage the drill with your right hand and the handle is such that kickback with be straight into your palm, allowing the clutch to trigger rather than having it rip away from your hand.
Nice video!
Top tips as usual, and I love how clean your safety goggles always are! Look forward to the renovations👍
Thanks. Those are new ones sent to me from Unilite. Great glasses so far.
@@TheDIYGuy1 Now do hearing protection and a dust mask. Wear all your PPE and set a good example
You can avoid any brake out on the inside by drilling a little that side first.
That’s certainly another option 👍
Always use the correct core drill with a clutch so save broken arms and wrists,i would not recommend use a standard drill for this type of job !
It was a clutched drill 👍
Exactly. The clue is in the name.
Core drill for a core bit.
SDS could land you a trip to A&E
I uses an SDS to core drill all the time, it has a clutch and has never kicked back at me.
Ok that's acceptable what you've stated But I did just that job some years back with a standard hammer drill. Yes I got got some slight kickback but I got the job done without any broken bones or bruises. Yes I took my time.
Young guy I was working with drilled a core hole using a standard SDS. Drill kicked back and he tore his rotator cuff in his shoulder. A month off work and it’s at least 5 years ago now and never been right since 😖. Core drill for a core drill bit every time.
spraying water occasionally, helps with dust and provide some cooling to the the core drill.
Would you recommend going from outside then doing the inner wall from inside out over if you had pipes and cables nearby?
Brilliant pilot hole advice.
Great instructive video, thanks. I have a query. I got an Erbauer, well reviewed on Screwfix, but the pilot bit (tapered) does not seem to fit very well and wobbles, so of course when drilling with the core drill, that wobbled too making a mess of the wall. Do you find that the pilot bit that fits into the arbor can wobble around? Thanks.
What is a recommended hand drill machine? I am asking about lowest watt machine required for a hole saw bit to drilling in properly?
first time here .very informative will be looking out for more of your videos.
Awesome, thank you!
may as well get a condensing dryer as in a couple years we will see another video of you bricking it back up.
I’ve an old boiler flue hole to brick up if it’s something you want to see 😂
Experience is the best teacher
You're great
Glad to have helped. Thanks
When I was drilling through some really dense comcrete using a 4.5” bit, it helped a lot to chisel away the inside core every inch or so
Great video! How would you go about enlarging an existing hole to fit a cooker hood that needs a bigger hole?
Are drainage pipes cut level also? Or do you need to cut them at the same angle the pipes need to drain? Is that easier than it sounds?
Thank you very much
Your videos is very good
Everything is well explained
Please do more videos like this 👍
Thank soo much freind, i appreciate a lot your advices, i lear lot of things from you , thank again , good luck for futur videos
After drilling your 8mm pilot, can you put the extra long 8mm but into the core drill? Looks like it could act as a really good end-to-end guide.
Is this the right saw bit to cut through stucco, too?
Great tip about running the pilot bit all the way through and core drilling back in from the outside. Wish I had thought of that doing all my room vents 🤣🤣
Glad to help!
I can tell you from experience that the core bit / drive shaft you are using will bind together after heavy use. It is then virtually impossible to separate the shaft from the bit and that means you cannot change bits thereafter. Before use I would recommend making and breaking the shaft/bit joint and also using copper grease or similar to make subsequent release of the joint more likely. I was drilling foundation wall that consisted of heavy-duty concrete blocks laid on their sides. The second point I would make is that the stub shaft being used will not get you through such long traverses. Eastablish whether you need a shaft extension before committing to task as separate purchase of long shaft is expensive. If these extensions binds and won’t release you will have an even greater problem to solve.
I eventually resorted to stitch drilling after first creating the first short penetration using diamond core. That worked well and was faster but not a neat finish on the exit side of the hole.
Your presentation skills are getting better and better. Much more natural these days. Good vid, ta.
Much appreciated!👍
As always a great informative video 👍🙏
Cheers bud 😀
Great video i am drilling through a wall this week for extractor fan great tip drill out pilot hole first from inside and then drill from outside due to dust 👍👏
Glad it was a help
Great advice, and great Norfolk accent......"wull done bore keep on a troshin" 👍
how well does this work in fiberglass reinforced concrete and what happens if you run into rebar?
Great tip on the pilot drill
White diamond thru the brick wall
Lovely video mate
Very helpful video Thankiyou so much very appreciate your help.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video !!!!! Looking forward tothe new series .........thanks 😊😊😊😊😊
Thanks. Soon, I’m working on the final edit for episode 1 😀
what happens if there's a rebar?
Brilliant tip on drilling from inside to out first!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video...👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Thanks 👍
Love this channel ❤️
great video - any tips to stop core sticking to abour - tried copper grease already thanks
Can you give any tips for enlagering a previous hole?
Excellent presentation as always!
Glad you like the video 👍
Dust aside - if kick back is most likely going into the internal wall from cavity. Would it not make more sense at this point to drill inside outwards? Some does but avoids kickback and also blow out risk?
Nice tips. Wow you have thick masonry in your neck of the woods😮.
Excellent video and edit. look forward to the renovation series.
Thanks. I’m working on it. Currently I’m working on the edit for episode 1
Your new home?
Congrats
Hi.. You didn't post the link for the wire and pipes electronic detector pls
This is a very helpful video!
Glad you think so!
Where can I get the complete set of this diamond core bits and the drill set
Great job and great video thanks for sharing with us this appreciations 🇩🇰🙏👍
Excellent video. Thank you.
Nice video.👍
Have you got a video where you make a Review on HP2071? 🤔 Would like to see how good it is.
Hey man. Thanks for the video. Send link for the core bit set you've got there. Searched amazon but no results. Thank you.
Awesome job 👍🏼
I cut and drill concrete for a living and I’ve broken my wrist with a 8” bit lol but was also using a hilti hand drill
I'm looking for an SDS drill that can drill big holes.
The SDS drill you link to is actually the one I was thinking of getting but everyone says it's not going to be able to cope with core bits over about 20mm and I need a corded drill for anything over this.
I notice you use a corded drill in this video, what's my best bet for site and domestic work as I don't really want to have to buy two for the different power ratings?
Cheers.
You mentioned a technique for enlarging holes. Any advice?
Would you suggest drilling from both sides of the wall to avoid any break out?
You could but it’s not really necessary
great video thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video! Thank bro, wish you good health and success always!
Thanks a lot you too 👍
@@TheDIYGuy1 have nice day! bro
Great video, I did an extractor fan recently using these bits 👍🏻
Wer do u locate can u fix extractor fan in my bathroom
Good video!
Thanks!
Worth greasing, or anti-sieze paste on threads
The shank type is this SDS Max? Cannot believe it would be a SDS plus.
My sds drill (dewalt) clutch is not man enough for 4" core drill spend more time trying to get it to bite. I think I need a proper core drill.
to reduce the blow out on the inside even more I usually run the coredrill in 5-10mm before going outside
Thanks for sharing 👍
Before i screw the diamond core to the arbour i put some 20mm electrical lock nuts on the arbour that way the core cutter can never wind up tight on the arbour thread and easy to remove.
I can't find the arbor adapter for sale anywhere for a regular hammer drill.
Any hole i drill thru brick or cinder block less than 1min and for solid concrete 2min and may 3 if rebar
Any advice for an overscrewed bit that won’t unscrew??
I have the same set of Erbauer drills. It is a bargain buy. If you purchase the 3 core drills and the mandrels separately it would cost double what you pay for this and you wouldn't even get the case. I have a 117 core to drill tomorrow in the loft. fortunately it's a double skin of breeze block with render on the out side so it won't take long. I drill the outside render first then drill the last inch from the inside to avoid blowout.
Isn't it a better idea to drill at a very slight downward angle, so water will drain to the outside?
Great Job!!
Informative video. Wondering if this would work with the Hilti TE 50-AVR.
For the pilot hole bit (8 mm) does that bit need to be diamond tip also? Or can I use the pilot bit that comes with the core bit to drill the pilot hole?
Beautiful job
Thank you! Cheers!
Does the same rule apply to a concrete grey wall (not a brick wall)? Thanks.
Sure 👍
Great and good quality video again . 👍 👌
Thank you 👍
The detector can find the cavity wall ties? Just to avoid drill over a wall tie 😮
Do you have an idea on how to drill onto uneven surfaces? For example: rocks on the beach area? The goal is to build and plant a metal post onto it.
I have2 concrete wall and 5 feet gap it’s between them how can I make that any idea?
Can a Milwaukee 1" 9/16 rotary hammer be used with a core bit to drill through concrete?
great video what min wattage drill to use?
Good explanation!
A little advice: in the future, try to move the handle in 90 degrees to right or left. In case of stuck or something you will control the drill much easier
Good luck!
Nice work, thankyou ..well done.
Drill mode only, no hammer action - is it only specifically for this core bit u're using, or any type of core bits out there? my instructor teach me to use hammer drill function. But, i think that hammer mode will destroy the bits. So im confused 😅
Could you drop the longer bit into the core bit so it stays level all the way
Thank you. SUB and LIKED!
I have a guild 1000w sds is this powerful enough?
Nice! I wonder if these can drill through sandstone and granite rock.
Corbett? Need Barker, too. Good tips, which we used a few years ago. For the more casual DiYer, this is a case where hiring the gear makes sense as you might just do it once. The Erbauer kit is pretty good, even for pro tradespeople who don't do this all the time. If it's a tiled wall, use a tile grinder to remove tiles with about 5mm extra radius and cut hole a few inches deep from the tile side first, then cut from the outside. The pilot hole ensures the two holes meet up. You might have to hack insulation from the cavity as the bit gets clogged
👍 cheers and thanks for sharing
8:10 bro use the pivot hole to drill with the diamond core through the plaster/cast on both sides, once you start hitting the brick go outside if your prefer. But using the diamond core drill bit on both sides makes that damage almost non existent.
Perfect video!
In Sweden we often use 125mm vent ducts.
What dimension do you recommend for the hole?
Hi, what was the name of the wire detector, please?