It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice. I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed. Good vid!
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder. As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc. Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me! ruclips.net/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/видео.html - for the Hilti video. Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut. A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
I would recommend keeping the drill bit in place when using the core drill, otherwise the core drill wanders and can result in the hole being way out of line (especially on thick walls).
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
Nice advice on safety and keeping the job clean that's professional. When I drill any type of hole , being a plumber by trade , I look at everything around me as well and plan for anything that could hit me or interfere when/if the drill catches and the clutch might take a second to kick in you still dont want your knuckles or fingers broken from a good kick-back.
Thanks for that, I'll give it a go. Very helpful video's by the way! after lots of hit and miss with finding studs using a 'detector', I stumbled on your video about neodymium magnets then got some off ebay and since then this site is my first port of call for tips! Great advice, cheers.
I'm a medical student and coming across this is like finding the dark web and getting super entertained. And yes I actually enjoyed watching this, very educational. Boom, subscribed!
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman The envelope trick has been around since The 1930s Mi great granddad told me that I used to use a flute of paper Down to the floor ,The Hoover attachment works best as it sucks onto the wall There's all on Amazon cheap ones from China and expensive ones from Bosch
Maybe you could cut a 150 mm hole in some ply with a jigsaw and the plug and screw that over the existing smaller hole. this may provide the support needed for the core drill without it slipping when starting the larger hole.
@Dean Mckeown The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
Solid walls are easy! Brick cavity construction is more difficult as when the core-drill crosses the cavity it may try to jam. Make sure that the fuse in the mains plug is only two or three amp. If perchance a 13 amp fuse is left in the plug, one may have a problem (stripped gears, broken wrist or arm, being tipped off the ladder etc) In actual fact SDS arbors which are really just DIY devices will probably shear off first. A quite difficult job is drilling vertical holes in Devon-Banks and Cornish Hedges. (Allegedly there are slight variations in construction) Both tend to be made from quarry waste bound together with clay. It is difficult to get plants to grow in such poor soil so holes need to be drilled and usually earth-augers won't work. Something that can tackle clay, stone and tree roots is needed. Continuous wet-diamond might be the best but such drills are hard to find.
thanks fella i'll give that a go, i have still not done it as i borrowed a drill to do it and my mate needed it back + i just could not bring myself to do another 2hrs+ of drilling up a ladder lol
Didn't realise its not a good idea to use a large core bit with a cheap standard 240v drill, that was until it almost ripped my arm off. I managed to finish but have never been so terrified when drilling in my life.
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much. Thanks for the comment
Claud Ka Kei Yeung That being the case I would of thought you would have understood dialect a bit better but obviously not. Unless ofcourse you've never visited Britain.
edward charles Having travelled the world does not mean I'd be able to hear the different dialects of one language in one specific country. You guessed wrong again, in that I have visited Britain, but only London.
It is worth hitting the end of the taper drill to seat it in the taper, otherwise it can come out when drilling. Also, for large diamond cores, it's better to use the hex Arbor, as the SdS one is more liable to snap. As your Bosch multi drill has two trucks, use the large hex/ standard chuck
10 inch hole you use a core drill hooked up to water you usually have to anchor the core drill to the floor or wall with threaded rod/drop in anchors and go slow
that's what I'm planning to do when going from a 4" hole to 6" for an extractor fan. Was planning on cutting a 4" circle out of a block of wood, though. I'm with you on the PPE. Don't know what the crazy guy is talking about damaging your hands by wearing gloves.
Good video on the correct procedure for dry diamond coring. However, SDS machines are really not that suitable for this application. They might be big and powerful, but they do not rev fast enough for the diamond segments to work properly. A dedicated dry diamond core machine will rev between a variable 700 & 2500rpm and will have a slipping clutch.
@ brianboru62 If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day? I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small. If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
trainmanmusic HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work! With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care! With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing. Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
Nice demo but your Bosch GBH4 is not a core drill, I have one and it can be okay for smallish holes in softer materials but the safety clutch just isn't adequate imo. If you were up a ladder and snagged it the drill would throw you so you wouldn't want to use it on very hard brick, large diameter cores or difficult or potentially dangerous situations. The ground floor of a garage is fine as you can just let go.
@@ultimatehandyman I think in that computer assembling video, it shows a dog coming into the room when you are assembling and there is text comment in the video. The dog asks "Is there something to eat?" "No?" "Bummer". This may or may not be true. But I certainly remember your face, channel name and teaching computer assembling.
I’m moving my toilet just now and need to relocate the soil pipe which I need to drill through my external wall, the drill I’m hiring for the day is 127mm do you think that will be an ok size? Great video, gave me great advice and always helps seeing it actually done when your a novice, explained it really well.
well worth the spend, much neater job especially drilling hole for soil pipe no ugly looking patchwork bricks and way out mortar mismatch.Dont know how often ill use diamond core drill bit again :)(only 19 quid)but the drill is just indespensible
if its an option I would HIGHLY recommend to use water as a lubricant if your using one of these on a concrete wall. You can get away without water on cinder block just because they are a good bit softer but with concrete you need water.
Great video, everything was well explained. If drilling through a very thick wall (12"), is there a way to break the core mid-way through the the hole and remove it so there is room to continue drilling?
You could try breaking it out using a club hammer and chisel, or if you can do drill a pilot hole straight through the wall using a thin drill bit then drill the core from each side of the wall.
Not sure why you picked the edges of the two cinder block with mortar in the middle ? It's the hardest to cut that way. Why not choose the hollow part of the cinder block ?
Clutch or not, most clutch's when they slip can be too late and the damage can be done. If one's hand is at right angles you have more control when it does start catch or slip, because it's pushing down on your left arm.
Great video. Just bought a core drill myself and I'm sure I would have left the guide drill in the whole way if it wasn't for your advice. It makes perfect sense to take it out, since the diamond core is acting as the guide. One thing though, it seems my guide bit isn't quite true - could it have come that way from the factory or is it an optical illusion, and does it matter? It's a Bosch core drill kit bought brand new, so I wonder if they're all like that.
I have a flue hole to drill to keep my plumbers costs down, thanks to you I have a little more confidence, shame it's through damned 3 foot thick stone wall though, hey ho, Hope the Parkside SDS copes.
If you are going to remove the drill bit after starting the core drilling, you do not really have to pre drill the hole, at least not all the way through do you. Unless of course you are marking the position of the hole on the other side of the wall, as in your case.
Some people leave the drill bit in, but on some substrates it can cause the machine to jam. I only use the drill bit to get the core started, once the core is in the substrate by an inch or so it's often better to remove it.
i would have just attached it to a nine inch grinder. would have taken 30 sec to go through that cinder block. we cut holes that big through 100mm granite in under 2 min. also it wouldn't catch if its spins faster
+brian Reed Well, it's no good just saying "I would have". This is RUclips, where anyone can upload a video. Please post back when you have uploaded on using a diamond core with an angle grinder.
It's all very well starting from the garage side to stop dust in the house, but if you don't finish it from the house side, there's a good chance of knocking off the plaster, even though not on hammer.
Over here in the US our employers supply the tools to do the job. Because they're obsessed with getting the job done fast, they give us the same type of diamond coring bit but it's powered straight off of a full size angle grinder with no pilot bit attachment and no safety clutch, needless to say that starting a 5 inch hole takes practice.
I like your method much better, it looks a whole lot safer, more accurate, and I believe the coring bit last much longer if ran at a lower speed.
Good vid!
Great vid thanks. Came in to see how it should be done after nearly breaking my wrist when the drill I was using to cut a core jammed. I can personally vouch for the part where you say a clutch in the drill is important.
A very comprehensive guide with a lot of useful tips. I hope my 9" brick wall takes a hole as neatly as yours did. Many thanks for posting.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'd add earplugs to protect your hearing (we want to hear our grandkids when we're old, right?) and spraying water to keep down the cancerous silica dust and keeping the bit cooler for greater bit lifespan. Or at least a dust mask rated for silica dust, worn correctly.
The envelope trick, that was sneaky mate ! love it :)
Thanks for the comment
I am not a tradesman but i enjoy watching these vidoes. Sometimes I wonder if I should try things by myself during my day off.
I'm glad you like watching the videos.
Thanks for the comment
Every time i watch this video the huffing trying to get the crap out of the core bill always makes me smile. Nothing worse can getting something stuck in there and not wanting to smash or tap the bit to get it out.
😂
This video was really helpful and gave me the confidence to drill through a double layered wall and then fit a vent pipe. It saved me £170 on a quote I had from a builder.
As stated on the video use a clutched drill, the clutch came into action on mine as the bit stuck in the wall. I think it would have been "nasty" had I just used my ordinary B & D.
I'm glad the video helped.
Thanks for the comment
Using an envelop to collect the dust is very clever. Thank you for the helpful video sir.
That tip was given to me by my brother in Laws, mother 👍
All great advice. Drilling all the way through the wall is only needed if you need to locate the centre of cut on the other side. Also when starting it is good to get through any plaster layer and into about half an inch of brick before removing the pilot bit, the diamond cutter can wander and create a lot of break out if not into the brick. A good clutch is essential as it stops the drill whipping around if the cutter gets jammed mid cut.
Thanks for the comment
thanks for this video, lots of us handymen learning from one another really helps a lot. for the long years ive been working, i still miss a lot , and your videos patch that missing info. regards
Excellent demo 👍 I would however suggest that it would be better to orientate the drill handle so that you're holding it above the drill body. That way if the drill binds and it starts to turn anticlockwise (even if you have a clutch it's not instantaneous and they do fail) you have a hand there to brace it, hopefully saving your trigger hand. (If the drill binds with your hand in the location shown in the video it will just pull it out of your grip and you'll lose control of it). It's a useful habit to get into when drilling.
👍
Thanks a lot mate, We drill a lot of holes for flues and some walls are an absolute nightmare to core! Big chunky sds drills are the worst idea ever when used for coring! Since I used a dedicated core drill once a while back, I absolutely want one, Smoothest core ever, That wall happened to be an easy wall to core anyway but still was very relaxing to do it haha
Brilliant - thanks. The local boys working for me here will be amazed. Still cutting massive holes in block work with a chisel and hammer to put a pipe through the wall!!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
You made this look so much better and easier than a video by Moorcut. Thanks, super cool.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman 5
Wow, over 1 million views for this video!
Thanks to anyone that has ever watched it ;-)
Ultimate Handyman You deserve it. Great videos.
Thank you ;-)
Ultimate Handyman ggggf🐙💩🥔🐣⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️⚽️
Well deserved too. Informative and well made, if I hadn't watched this I may have cocked up my new core bits. I didn't before this not to have the hammer function off so thanks.
Ultimate Handyman like
Impressive instruction. I must say the quality of the material/construction seen in this video appears superior to what we see here in the states.
Thanks, the blocks in this video are concrete but many new homes use aerated concrete which are much lighter and easier to drill etc.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks UHM! my dad was trying to bore through a chimney without a pilot bit, its a good thing we hadn't wallpapered yet :P
I love your videos as a young Worker its always good to see experienced !!!
I actually found that the core drill jamed a lot more when i removed pilot drill, ive done it both ways. So now i leave it in.
Hilti have an instructional video which shows the pilot drill being removed fairly soon. Good enough for me!
ruclips.net/video/MxcWv7BZRgk/видео.html - for the Hilti video.
Also, Bosch have a good safety video about kickback which is well worth watching.
If ever needed to enlarge a core drilled hole drive some wood into the existing hole and wood drill a hole in the middle. The pilot will follow it easy for the larger hole without fingers going missing.
Just get rid of the pilot drill and offer up a timber template to guide the bigger bit
wow i finally get to see the simplier demo and therefor it is more understabe to me thankyou sir
👍
Envelope trick is brilliant. Also, I've seen Shop-Vac secured near to suck up concrete dust, as well as another person "wetting" the area with a fine spray mist.
Have you any idea of what type of envelope was used to catch the dust?
your drill is the drill that'll pierce the heavens
+Imperfection
LOL, thanks for the comment ;-)
I always go through the inside plaster just a few cm to stop it cracking. Can almost guarantee if you go straight through from one side the hole will not be a clean neat cut.
A helper with a Hoover works well inside too to keep dust to a minimum
Great tips, even 9 years later!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
I would recommend keeping the drill bit in place when using the core drill, otherwise the core drill wanders and can result in the hole being way out of line (especially on thick walls).
👍
This gives me enough confidence to do this myself instead of paying someone.
I'm glad the video helped
Thanks for the comment 👍
well explained. just what i needed to understand how to use these drills
Thanks for the comment
yup I just did a core above ceiling grid, 2-1/2" hole...thru brick. Took me about 10 secs of drillin and I bolt to the truck, got my gloves, my mask, my safety glasses and ear plugs. My mask was completely red when I got thru....I was surprised that the vibration went down a little when i put on my gloves. And the ringing in my ears not as bad as when I didn't have plugs on. Learn my lesson that day.
Nice advice on safety and keeping the job clean that's professional. When I drill any type of hole , being a plumber by trade , I look at everything around me as well and plan for anything that could hit me or interfere when/if the drill catches and the clutch might take a second to kick in you still dont want your knuckles or fingers broken from a good kick-back.
No you dont plumbers are useless
I've been using the core drills that require the rotary hammer function to work - this looks like a much cleaner QUIETER way of doing things. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment
You’ve been using the core bits wrong. 😂
I never took the pilot bit out. Thanks for the advice
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Thanks for that, I'll give it a go. Very helpful video's by the way! after lots of hit and miss with finding studs using a 'detector', I stumbled on your video about neodymium magnets then got some off ebay and since then this site is my first port of call for tips! Great advice, cheers.
I score through the plaster on the inside, saves a massive blowout when you breakthrough. Little bit of dust, no huge chunks of plaster coming off.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Pilot bit, I learned new. Thank you.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
I'm a medical student and coming across this is like finding the dark web and getting super entertained. And yes I actually enjoyed watching this, very educational. Boom, subscribed!
Thanks for the comment and for subscribing ;-)
You're a great teacher - Thanks, I learnt a lot.
Thanks Paul ;-)
Just subscribed - it's going to be fun.
Can't wait to learn new stuff from you.
Thanks Paul, I hope you learn a lot!
Always nice to hear a northern English accent.
Thanks for the comment
Very useful video. Like the envelope on the wall, I normally get the hoover out and hold it awkwardly under the drill.
+Mark Slevin The envelope trick was passed down from my brother in law's mother years ago. I think she saw it on a TV program, or perhaps saw it in a DIY book.Thanks for the comment ;-)
@@ultimatehandyman The envelope trick has been around since The 1930s Mi great granddad told me that I used to use a flute of paper Down to the floor ,The Hoover attachment works best as it sucks onto the wall There's all on Amazon cheap ones from China and expensive ones from Bosch
@Fire System Security
No, a safety clutch stops the machine from turning if the bit gets jammed ;-)
thanks need to know whats best for a heist
@@dezlotto8692 11 lads and lasses.
Maybe you could cut a 150 mm hole in some ply with a jigsaw and the plug and screw that over the existing smaller hole. this may provide the support needed for the core drill without it slipping when starting the larger hole.
That was really helpful did not know about the requirement for the chuck.
appreciate this, i kept the hammer action on and my block kept splitting. saved me a lot of stress!
Very helpful, thank you.
I will be using you advice soon, when I drill a hole for my central heating air vent.
Thanks, good vid, covered all the points I wasn't sure about
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this video mate, very helpful . Got six of these to do 😎
You are welcome.
Best of luck with the 6 holes ;-)
All done through 17" of wall! took about three days and one cutter from Titan. Cheers
@Dean Mckeown
The one in the video I think was Silverline. I have since purchased a Makita set which was only a few quid more expensive than the Silverline.
is the Makita a lot better?
+brianboru62
I have not tried them yet.
I'll try and set up a comparison test when I have time ;-)
Used the exact same size today on the job for the first ever, through two walls.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Keir Murray what size is bit ?
I have the same hummer drill but I don’t know what size the bit for diamond core drill
@@kokyrodezno5199 8mm x 205mm pilot bit
Awesome need this video
Solid walls are easy! Brick cavity construction is more difficult as when the core-drill crosses the cavity it may try to jam. Make sure that the fuse in the mains plug is only two or three amp. If perchance a 13 amp fuse is left in the plug, one may have a problem (stripped gears, broken wrist or arm, being tipped off the ladder etc) In actual fact SDS arbors which are really just DIY devices will probably shear off first.
A quite difficult job is drilling vertical holes in Devon-Banks and Cornish Hedges. (Allegedly there are slight variations in construction) Both tend to be made from quarry waste bound together with clay. It is difficult to get plants to grow in such poor soil so holes need to be drilled and usually earth-augers won't work. Something that can tackle clay, stone and tree roots is needed. Continuous wet-diamond might be the best but such drills are hard to find.
+Tech Davey
Thanks for the info ;-)
thanks fella i'll give that a go, i have still not done it as i borrowed a drill to do it and my mate needed it back + i just could not bring myself to do another 2hrs+ of drilling up a ladder lol
your video are great man. thank you. keep uploading please
I will do ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Didn't realise its not a good idea to use a large core bit with a cheap standard 240v drill, that was until it almost ripped my arm off. I managed to finish but have never been so terrified when drilling in my life.
Great videos, I love the intro.
There may come a time when you need to drill a big hole in a wall. No messin about
Thanks for the comment 👍
"I am wearing safety gloves and glasses." I'm more anticipating my hearing before it even began :D
Core drills do not normally make a lot of noise. On site now they have reduced the amount of hearing protection that we have to wear, apparently the HSE have deemed that people cannot hear danger if the DB level is reduced too much.
Thanks for the comment
thats a good idea, its probably a lot less messing about than other methods.
thanks
شغل ممتاز مع فني محترف ومع معدات شركة بوش ... احسنت
شكرا للتعليق
What is this? Noodles?😁
@@Phjghh 🤣🤣🤣
great demonstration
Could you use this to drill through the wall of a safety deposit box building?
+Clive Ellis
You could do, but it's much easier using a proper Hilti machine.
ruclips.net/video/XOmPqfNVJ9E/видео.html
0
Clive Ellis
Sure, if you don't mind the time.
So glad you let him know much better options out there. Especially to make a proper 24+ inch crawl through!
At around 2:00, I finally figured he was speaking English.
lmao..
Claud Ka Kei Yeung wait until you hear a Brummie, Geordie, Scouser or Cockney. Clearly you haven't travelled much!
edward charles No I've only lived in 4 continents, and visited more than 20 countries.
Claud Ka Kei Yeung That being the case I would of thought you would have understood dialect a bit better but obviously not. Unless ofcourse you've never visited Britain.
edward charles Having travelled the world does not mean I'd be able to hear the different dialects of one language in one specific country. You guessed wrong again, in that I have visited Britain, but only London.
Those core sets cost a bomb. Especially for a diy'er!
44$ jaja stupid yo dont have money
@@virgiliomelendez8401 Your parents didn’t have money for your school it seems, looking at your English.
Another great tutorial. Thanks.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment 👍
Nice Demo. My video little similar to this about making chimney hole nicely.
👍
It is worth hitting the end of the taper drill to seat it in the taper, otherwise it can come out when drilling. Also, for large diamond cores, it's better to use the hex Arbor, as the SdS one is more liable to snap. As your Bosch multi drill has two trucks, use the large hex/ standard chuck
👍
Ear protection and mask highly recommended also...good stuff
10 inch hole you use a core drill hooked up to water you usually have to
anchor the core drill to the floor or wall with threaded rod/drop in anchors and go slow
that's what I'm planning to do when going from a 4" hole to 6" for an extractor fan. Was planning on cutting a 4" circle out of a block of wood, though.
I'm with you on the PPE. Don't know what the crazy guy is talking about damaging your hands by wearing gloves.
Good video on the correct procedure for dry diamond coring. However, SDS machines are really not that suitable for this application. They might be big and powerful, but they do not rev fast enough for the diamond segments to work properly. A dedicated dry diamond core machine will rev between a variable 700 & 2500rpm and will have a slipping clutch.
@ brianboru62
If it's just the one hole you are doing your best option might be to hire a dedicated core cutting machine for the day?
I'd always go for a slightly larger core drill- the last thing you want is a hole that is slightly too small.
If you are buying a machine get the most powerful you can afford but make sure it has the safety clutch ;-)
thanks bought this has clutch www.ebay.co.uk/itm/261643684338 seems good enough. Its doin me head in having an internal soil pipe its causing heaps of probs coz the internal pipe just gets in the way of fitting my bathroom suite in the desired manner.Hence watching your vid on using a core drill bit.hopefully from :( to :)
brianboru62
That should do the trick, please let me know how you get on with it ;-)
trainmanmusic
HAHA stay away from hire stores unless you your a busy tradesman and you NEED something desperately.Otherwise ebay was great for me saved a fortune and that drill i bought is a beast it whizzes through concrete posts ( to fasten and screw gate post too).Hire stores scandalous prices,I was lucky and bought a 110mm diamond core hole saw 28 quid,a hire store i enquired would have charged me 58 quid for one days use of very same core drill.
+brianboru62 Hire shops are best avoided. F'rintance years ago I got roped-into helping a mate take down a load of trees at a GFs house. A petrol driven shredder had been hired but I took one look at it and knew that it wouldn't work. The machine employed a drum with swinging flails but the flails were worn and rounded like the helmet on ones privates! Yup the machine didn't work and it even struggled with a small bit of brush wood. It was taken back straightaway and to the hirer's surprise the proprietor of the shop hadn't even put the thirty quid in the till. Presumably he KNEW that the shredder wouldn't work!
With no shredder the bonfire method had to be used. Unfortunately a very tough looking and irate bloke soon arrived ranting on about soot and smoke on his wife's washing. It was looking like a fist fight but there were several of us so the bloke backed-down. Phew! hire shops can cause a LOT of trouble so take care!
With hindsight it might have been better to reverse or sharpen the flails but when one pays £30 for a days hire its a bit much to be expected to service the machine as well!
+Tech Davey Bloody hell aye,hire anything for 2 weeks and you coujd have ended up buying the friggin thing.
Hence why i bought a diamond hole cutter for what..£20 notes.saved meself 40 quid im sure for a weeks hire that came with a hammer drill.Stuff that got me drill of ebay bloody great take a brick out in 20 seconds.i got the diamond cutter from a weird shop that sells oddball tools giant pliars or ball joint splitters(alice in wonderland for tool heads)
Have to love the envelope.. I personally use a dustpan underneath. Do you keep envelopes in your toolbox? LOL
James Cole LOL, I use anything to hand, carrier bags, bin bags etc.
Thanks for the comment
Nice demo but your Bosch GBH4 is not a core drill, I have one and it can be okay for smallish holes in softer materials but the safety clutch just isn't adequate imo. If you were up a ladder and snagged it the drill would throw you so you wouldn't want to use it on very hard brick, large diameter cores or difficult or potentially dangerous situations. The ground floor of a garage is fine as you can just let go.
Thanks, but this drill's clutch will prevent it from grabbing and injuring the user.
Thanks for the comment
I think i watched a video of you teaching computer assembling some years ago!
You could well of done, they were some of the first videos I ever uploaded ;-)
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman
I think in that computer assembling video, it shows a dog coming into the room when you are assembling and there is text comment in the video. The dog asks "Is there something to eat?" "No?" "Bummer". This may or may not be true. But I certainly remember your face, channel name and teaching computer assembling.
Never drill a hole on the block joining but great video
There is a plain smooth bar guide that can be fitted instead of the pilot drill.Take note that diamond cores must not use the hammer action.
I’m moving my toilet just now and need to relocate the soil pipe which I need to drill through my external wall, the drill I’m hiring for the day is 127mm do you think that will be an ok size? Great video, gave me great advice and always helps seeing it actually done when your a novice, explained it really well.
127mm core should be fine. Best of luck with it ;-)
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Amazing video
Thanks!
The sintering that holds the diamond grit will never withstand dry coring. You have to keep it cooled with a spritzer bottle full off water.
These cores are designed to be used dry.
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master job,,,,looking very nice
+Nizi Nizamudin
Thanks for the comment ;-)
good video. should also wear a dust mask. long term exposure to concrete dust can cause lung problems.
Thanks for the tip ;-)
well worth the spend, much neater job especially drilling hole for soil pipe no ugly looking patchwork bricks and way out mortar mismatch.Dont know how often ill use diamond core drill bit again :)(only 19 quid)but the drill is just indespensible
if its an option I would HIGHLY recommend to use water as a lubricant if your using one of these on a concrete wall. You can get away without water on cinder block just because they are a good bit softer but with concrete you need water.
+End Times Rider just try use brazed core drill bit
NO....its called a DRY core bit for a reason
Great video, everything was well explained. If drilling through a very thick wall (12"), is there a way to break the core mid-way through the the hole and remove it so there is room to continue drilling?
You could try breaking it out using a club hammer and chisel, or if you can do drill a pilot hole straight through the wall using a thin drill bit then drill the core from each side of the wall.
+Ultimate Handyman Okay. Thank you.
Not sure why you picked the edges of the two cinder block with mortar in the middle ? It's the hardest to cut that way. Why not choose the hollow part of the cinder block ?
They are not cinder blocks, in the UK lots of concrete blocks like this are solid.
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nice video. can you use water on the bit to reduce dust?
I would put the handle at right angles to the drill body because it jams it won't spin so easily and rip you arm off.
Please pay attention. This drill has a safety clutch 😉
Clutch or not, most clutch's when they slip can be too late and the damage can be done.
If one's hand is at right angles you have more control when it does start catch or slip, because it's pushing down on your left arm.
Ha. Love the envelope trick! Cheers.
+Dave D
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video. Just bought a core drill myself and I'm sure I would have left the guide drill in the whole way if it wasn't for your advice. It makes perfect sense to take it out, since the diamond core is acting as the guide. One thing though, it seems my guide bit isn't quite true - could it have come that way from the factory or is it an optical illusion, and does it matter? It's a Bosch core drill kit bought brand new, so I wonder if they're all like that.
I have a flue hole to drill to keep my plumbers costs down, thanks to you I have a little more confidence, shame it's through damned 3 foot thick stone wall though, hey ho, Hope the Parkside SDS copes.
Best of luck with it ;-)
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I Learn a lot, thank you.
You are welcome
Sweet tip about removing the pilot drill!
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That awesone, now how do you drill out a 10'' hole?
Never done a hole that big myself, but I am sure you will be able to hire a drilling rig for that size of hole
Very good
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I got dust in my eyes watching this!
Please wear safety glasses the next time you watch a video ;-)
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@@ultimatehandyman 😂good answer
Jajajajaja
I agree with the Ultimate handyman
برنامج مفيد جدا شكرا
very useful show ,,,
thank you
If you are going to remove the drill bit after starting the core drilling, you do not really have to pre drill the hole, at least not all the way through do you. Unless of course you are marking the position of the hole on the other side of the wall, as in your case.
Some people leave the drill bit in, but on some substrates it can cause the machine to jam. I only use the drill bit to get the core started, once the core is in the substrate by an inch or so it's often better to remove it.
i would have just attached it to a nine inch grinder. would have taken 30 sec to go through that cinder block. we cut holes that big through 100mm granite in under 2 min. also it wouldn't catch if its spins faster
+brian Reed
Well, it's no good just saying "I would have".
This is RUclips, where anyone can upload a video. Please post back when you have uploaded on using a diamond core with an angle grinder.
Great learning curve, Thanks !!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Excellent video, thanks