Well I must have watched this 20 times Very helpful!! Gave me the confidence to do it and do the job right. good tip on releasing tension on both sides of the strut and sway bars to make the job easier. Def getting a sub for this one
you dont need to remove the tie rods or brake line bracket. just the bolt on the bottom of the strut, the sway bar end links, and the 3 strut tower bolts
I just subscribed to your video I have a 2018 Honda Accord I just bought I'm interested in doing the same process I've even ordered the same wheels but I'm interested what size tire did you use for those wheels on that car you don't mind me asking..I loved the video 😀
Thanks for sharing this detailed video. I have a few questions about the 1.2 drop. I saw a post on a sight that stated the Front struts don't handle the H&R 1.2 Drop well and its a bouncy ride...Is this true? Hows the over all ride and does the car lower more after the springs have settled? I see that your on 20's Will the wheel gap be bigger with stock Wheels? Over all How does it ride? Thanks in advanced for the information. I am in between the Eibach Pro kit .06F .08R and these H&R 1.2's Just want a tight ride with out damaging any OEM parts/Suspension.
I've used the eibach sportine. They give a 1.6 drop in the front and 1.8 rear. Almost closes the gap in the rear. They were bouncy for about a week or 400-500miles until the strut settle then they were good to go. I'm currently on airlift suspension and I've also had tein flex z coilivers. And the eibach sportine (though they can't adjust like bags or coilovers and are stiff) in my opinion felt the best. I'm can't understand how a set of $225 lowering springs feel better than a $4000 airlift suspension. In fact even though I'm on airbags, my front to struts at the moment are my eibach lowering springs because airlift struts pillow bearings keep going bad and they have no replacements in stock. And I don't care because the springs feel way better anyway.
It just depends what you like. Some people just want a minimal drop without sacrificing the OEM Suspension to wear out more. keep in mind, the lower you are, the more you are susceptible to wear and tears of your OEM suspension component parts.
@@andrewkomuves634 Andrew I dont think you have to cut them with H&R springs. H&R's are a lot firmer than Eibach's. My son had the same car and he installed Eibach Sport springs and his was way softer which explains why they want you to cut the bump stops in the back (plus the give you a set for the fronts). Eibach allows more travel compared to the H&R. I have been running H&R's in my 21 Accord 2.0 for over a year now and it has never bottomed out on the stops. Hope this helps.
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Well I must have watched this 20 times
Very helpful!!
Gave me the confidence to do it and do the job right. good tip on releasing tension on both sides of the strut and sway bars to make the job easier.
Def getting a sub for this one
Thanks! And glad we could help !
you dont need to remove the tie rods or brake line bracket. just the bolt on the bottom of the strut, the sway bar end links, and the 3 strut tower bolts
I just subscribed to your video I have a 2018 Honda Accord I just bought I'm interested in doing the same process I've even ordered the same wheels but I'm interested what size tire did you use for those wheels on that car you don't mind me asking..I loved the video 😀
Thanks for sharing this detailed video. I have a few questions about the 1.2 drop. I saw a post on a sight that stated the Front struts don't handle the H&R 1.2 Drop well and its a bouncy ride...Is this true? Hows the over all ride and does the car lower more after the springs have settled? I see that your on 20's Will the wheel gap be bigger with stock Wheels? Over all How does it ride? Thanks in advanced for the information. I am in between the Eibach Pro kit .06F .08R and these H&R 1.2's Just want a tight ride with out damaging any OEM parts/Suspension.
I've used the eibach sportine. They give a 1.6 drop in the front and 1.8 rear. Almost closes the gap in the rear. They were bouncy for about a week or 400-500miles until the strut settle then they were good to go. I'm currently on airlift suspension and I've also had tein flex z coilivers. And the eibach sportine (though they can't adjust like bags or coilovers and are stiff) in my opinion felt the best. I'm can't understand how a set of $225 lowering springs feel better than a $4000 airlift suspension. In fact even though I'm on airbags, my front to struts at the moment are my eibach lowering springs because airlift struts pillow bearings keep going bad and they have no replacements in stock. And I don't care because the springs feel way better anyway.
Wow no pics of the car lowered. At least from the side?
Still look good
The tire should be the thinest u can find and it needs to be dropped just a little more with a bigger size rims. Nice video overall
It just depends what you like. Some people just want a minimal drop without sacrificing the OEM Suspension to wear out more. keep in mind, the lower you are, the more you are susceptible to wear and tears of your OEM suspension component parts.
Price to do the labor if i have the coils
Can u add torque specs for reinstalling thanks
How much would it cost to have someone do this?
What are the wheels
Does this process work for a 2012 accord
You dont have to cut the bump stops in the strut? Eibach says you do for even their sport kit which only drops the car .08" front and rear.
Yeah lol I was questioning that too. I'm installing them today and I think I might
@@andrewkomuves634 Andrew I dont think you have to cut them with H&R springs. H&R's are a lot firmer than Eibach's. My son had the same car and he installed Eibach Sport springs and his was way softer which explains why they want you to cut the bump stops in the back (plus the give you a set for the fronts). Eibach allows more travel compared to the H&R. I have been running H&R's in my 21 Accord 2.0 for over a year now and it has never bottomed out on the stops. Hope this helps.
What kind of shop was this done at ?
What kind of maintenance does this need after install?
Alignment and then after 500 miles retorque
You installed the rear spring upside down 🤦🏽♂️🤣
That's how you install it
No camber kit needed?
Not needed but always recommend!