Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched these two videos. I’m in the middle of reassembly after doing dod vvt delete and your tutorial has been a HUGE help. Thanks man!
I know you've sold the Yukon at this point but just wanted to say thank you for the clear concise videos you've put together on the DOD delete. My 2014 GMC sierra lost a regular lifter at 270k last week. I feel lucky to have that many trouble free miles. Ive done plenty of LS stuff on my GTO and a DOD delete on my old 2009 GMC many years ago. Your videos made the gen 5 5.3 much less intimidating. The best automotive how to videos ive ever watched on youtube.
Nicely done video. We replaced the failed factory AFM system with with a stage 2 Tooley Racing cam, solid lifters, comp valve springs and rockers, hi flow oil pump, and Shortuning the ECM plus TCM. Serious increase in HP. Running only high performance 20-50w oil. Engine uses zero oil, small decrease in fuel economy but worth the added performance.
I thought newer engines needed the thinner oils that get up through the top of the motor? 20W-50 oil has got to thick as lard. What about when it gets cold and the oil flows even less upon start-up? Won't that damage the top of the engine? Either way, it sounds like you know more than I do on the subject at hand.
Thank you so much for this! I basically had your videos as my go to source and THEN the AllData printouts as a backup. Incredibly informative! Just FYI for the other garage diy'ers out there, my timing chain retention mechanism was brittle. I tried to be careful with it when compressing it, but it ended up being a worst case scenario. The thing broke in half and fell down in the oil pan... I had to order the oil pump alignment tools and spent an extra day dropping the diff, steering gear, and pan! On the bright side, it made getting dot-to-dot easier, lol. Anyway, thanks again!
I feel so much more confident that I can begin this project, I am so so scared to do this but I have downloaded and save these two videos so that I can watch and rewatch as needed. Pray for me 😮😮
Careful when prying on the chain!! While following this series this weekend, the tip of my screwdriver broke off, and i had to remove the upper oil pan to find it… not a good time
Danny - after watching you make the engine repairs on this video - though I am a mechanic and do most of the work myself on my own vehicles - I think I will just pass on this and just keep CLEAN OIL in my engine -even though I have some ticking noise 😐✌️2012 Chevy Avalanche , 5.3 L
Do the best you can. I know the new intervals of 10,000 miles is way too long and adds to it, but I also changes it sooner and it still happened. Do the best you can
Yes Guys, personally I have kept my DOD working along with “intelligent battery charging” on my 2008 gmc sierra sle Z71, 200,000, miles still running flawlessly. Guess I’m lucky.
@@hectorgarza228 I would suggest changing the oil with Castrol 5/20 and taking your truck for a 200 mile run at at least 60 or 70 mph. You may revive that lifter.
Thanks a ton!!! Completed Video 1 and now one to video 2. Mine is in a 2019 Tahoe but is a 5.3 L83. When I pulled my High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter the hole was positioned to the Driver Side. Do I put it back that way? Does it make a difference? That timing chain was a beast but I got it. Thanks again!!
Nobody replaces the crank shaft seal? Kind of hard I know because you can’t remove the cover from the oil pump plug. I guess they don’t leak? Thanks for the video. Has been a big help.
Great video. I love the fine details that you went through. Out of curiosity, and I may have missed it, why didn't you go ahead and replace the oil pump since you possibly had metal in the engine?
The oil pump requires pulling the engine (or dropping the oil pan and partially pulling the engine. It has to be perfectly centered upon re-installing (unless you buy a new pump apparently) or use tools that didn’t really work that you’ll see in the videos. I don’t find any metal in the oil lifter filter screen and the other lifters appeared to catch the other small pieces. I guess I was just at the point to give it a try or go with a whole new engine but didn’t want to pull the new heads off a new engine to remove the collapsable lifters. It was a little complicated
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I love this walkthrough...it's been so helpful. I'm in the middle of doing this to my wife's Escalade ESV, and I tried a little to walk that chain off the cog but decided to go ahead and pull the pan. It's a lot more work, but since it's only a 2WD, I only had to lower the steering rack to get it out. The 4WD models require pulling the differential...ewww. Glad I did because putting on that pump is much easier when it's new. Also, cleaning out all the build-up at the bottom of the pain makes me feel better. I was surprised at how much of the timing cover gasket fell into the pan even though I covered the opening.
When replacing the oil pump. What is the procedure? I have a new oem GM oil pump and chain tensioner. Will I need to align the new one or can I just stick it on there and torque it down?
To my understanding, a new pump can be installed normally whereas an old pump must be perfectly centered. Don’t take my word for it, that’s just what I have heard
Actually, I believe it does it now on all 16 lifters now calling it dynamic fuel management. I’ve even hear of more lifter failures on newer models where they won’t allow the customer to take delivery until it’s had repairs performed gmauthority.com/blog/gm/general-motors-technology/general-motors-propulsion-technology/general-motors-dynamic-fuel-management-cylinder-deactivation-technology/?_gl=1*6v9g9w*_ga*UGRSSmVyNEhSQ1VORGtadGd4bDZIckFLdjRUQ01lazNzTS1Od3l2c25kMzh3blhQTy1fRHhndWpQVTZUTldCWQ..
@@loviebrownlow6983that's partially correct. All engines still got all of the mechanical parts of the AFM/DOD. Due to chip shortages, some vehicles didn't get the ECM to make it work. Your engine still has this. It's just deactivated.
I watched this video with the meticulous care being given to every step then watched the Pakistani guys rebuild diesels and I felt conflicted....😀. All kidding aside I appreciate the video and information provided. GM has had issues with V8 push rod engine cams going flat since the 70s, guess they still prioritize profit over quality.
Awesome video. Great camera and audio. The only question I have is that I didn't see the solenoids that operate the old AFM lifters. Did that connector and solenoid remain connected or removed? I thought it was mounted on the valley cover plate but didn't see it in your video. Thanks again for filming and sharing this.
Yes, all solenoids are on the bottom of the VLOM valley plate. They are still there, just not being used. It could make it easier in the event you ever wanted dod again.
So… I dropped my timing chain off the crank gear. Any tips on getting it back on? I can’t see obviously with the oil pump still in place and the chain just moves freely now 😢
You should be able to pull the chain back up with a magnet and lift the chain from the top for it to catch the crank gear, then walk the chain back over the cam gear. Make sure the crank locked at tip dead center as shown in the video so the timing isn’t off. If you remove the oil pump it won’t come all the way off and you’ll need to take the front cover of the oil pump off to put shims in and center it in 3 places, so you want to avoid messing with it if possible
I wanted as few variables as possible, and a stock replacement. I didn’t want to worry about aftermarket components, new valve springs, and worse fuel economy. The truck has plenty of power as it comes, and it’s a family vehicle ruclips.net/video/6VzX7rETZIY/видео.htmlsi=DxLaVU01hJaxqi6-
Glad you enjoyed it. I wished I had one to follow when I was doing it. There are other good ones, but pulling the engine and lengthy. I’m glad to hear they are being enjoyed
The thing is I really wanted the 5.3L motor to tow my travel trailer. The V6 can't handle it, the LS motor would definitely do the job. The conversion would cost too much money 💰
Nice Video man, im about to do my buddies Silverado, had a couple questions, ive done gen 4s and was wondering if u ended up removing the oil pan and oil pump at all? Every video i see they remove both . Also ive seen they also lock the phaser.
The Gen 5 has some differences that make it a little more difficult. The oil pump goes down into the oil pan, so it cannot be removed without dropping the pan. It also has a sensor (I believe for the variable oil pump) that has a cord going into the bottom of the oil pan area which also would need to be removed and is not accessible with the pan on. The most challenging part of the oil pump is that it must be perfectly centered when reinstalled, and the centering tools they sell do not do a good job of that. You would need to take the oil pump cover off and put .002 shims around the pump on 3 places to try to center it again. For these reasons, I believe the shop manual calls to pull the engine and charges 34 hours. In the video we work around the oil pump to avoid all this. It does leave some problems if you had a lot of metal shavings in the engine, so you’ll decide if you want a new oil pump. Leaving the oil pump on makes it impossible to see the crank timing dot, so pay attention to how we lock the crank at Top dead center for piston 1 (driver side) and look for the alignment arrow to point down. You also have to walk the chain off the timing gear. It’s all in the videos, but there is a reason we do what we do. If you plan to pull the engine out, do all the oil pump and seals on the pan. Locking the phaser is best if you are gong to a larger cam where it would be a problem for the phaser to rotate. If using the stock replacement non-DOD cam as you see in this video, leave the phaser unlocked for better low end torque and better all around performance.
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
Unfortunately I have to tear down my 5.3l to determine the current lifter failure damage. I am wondering why you didn't clean up the build up on the pistons, I am not a mechanic but love to learn new stuff on my vehicles to save money vs paying high labor rates good mechanics charge. I am thinking just to replace all the lifters if i have no cam damage but going the long block route remanufactured with delete of AFM already installed if I can find one rebuilt this way.
I cleaned them a little, but the less mess I made the better for contamination. I spent a lot of time on the head gasket mating surfaces and the intake valve ports
Great job on the work and taking the time to video. Appreciate it! Did you rebuild the cam phaser and put in a limiter or are you still keeping it variable?
I kept it stock because I used a stock replacement cam. There is a great video out there for the lockout ruclips.net/video/FEvH-g_RfKI/видео.htmlsi=5vxcn_mUrjaY5e2P
Why the thread sealant on the rocket arm bolts? Appears to be a dead hole and I cannot find on Mitchell diy where they add anything to the rocket arm bolt. I could see a little blue loctite but I’m afraid that the white thread sealant might get on the mating surface between the head and the rocket arm. 17:46
Incredible documentation! How does it run now? What is the fuel mileage reduction without DOD? Why did you not install a cam phaser plug? I see mod shops do that with the lifter upgrade. Thx....
Runs just the same as factory, 1 mpg difference on fuel economy. I kept the cam phaser (did not lock the VVT) since the new cam spec was similar to factory. Aggressive cams may need it locked but a factory spec allows you to maintain better low end torque with the VVT. ruclips.net/video/ddthA_E5Yqc/видео.htmlsi=jITK80oQzcoB_ji1
@@gbass7328 yeah, it kept the VVT. My understanding is bigger cams force you to lock it out so you don’t have piston to valve contact, but for the stock cam spec it’s fine
Do your self a favor invest in a good digital torque wrench I have a Snap On and love it because it makes life easier love your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Hey Danny, love the video. I am doing this repair at home myself. I left the engine in the car, now I am regretting it, and I was able to take all the parts apart and get the phaser out. However, after installing the new cam and camp plate, I am stuck and I am not able to get the new phaser in. I broke one last night and I just picked up a brand new phaser for $225 and I don’t want to break another one. It looks like you got the phaser back in easy. How do you do that? I am at the point of trying to drop the oil pan and then remove the oil pump so I can get that chain back around the phaser.
If the vlom cover is still off, I found it useful to push the cam slightly forward towards the front of the car with your fingers so you can line up the phaser and rotate the cam until the nub on the cam seats in the phaser hole. It really helps to have someone else there to help walk the chain on. It’s tight but one link at a time it’s possible. Be sure the timing arrow is pointed directly down and the crank has not moved at all (hopefully you have the flywheel tool in place to lock it from moving).
Thank you for the reply. I was able to finally get it on by loosening the oil pump bolts, took 5 hours but got it all lined up with cylinder 1 TDC. Thank you!
When tuning the ecu and Tcm do you have to adjust the slip on the torque converter? I have completed the dod delete and have no check engine light but I noticed when driving i feel a slight jerk when truck is shifting . It’s a 2019 Silverado 5.3. I used factory camshaft. Or could the torque converter be going bad?
The dod can destroy the transmission as it goes in and out of 4 cylinder mode. There are a lot of torque converter problems and the shudder is common. Disabling the dod would be the real fix as you have. You can try the updated fluid that has helped a lot, but the damage may be done ruclips.net/video/Bu_isDRd9lI/видео.htmlsi=DCz52JaCAj1GyPNA
The part of the water pump damaged was the housing you could have unbolted the water pump from the holes in the pulley and put the water pump in the other housing I did not see you block off the oil ports for the afm ports
It’s hard to say. Pulling the engine, I would have done more with removing the oil pan and not having the chain pull over the timing set. I would have probably also added a new oil pump and seals..you saw all the oil come out of the head bolt holes- it would have been better to dump the engine upside down- but more work aligning the transmission back up. Part of me would have wanted a whole new engine, but they all come with the bad lifters
For stock replacement cam specs it’s better not to add the limiter so you take advantage of the variable valve timing. If you install a larger duration cam, my understanding is that it may be needed to avoid any piston to valve clearance.
I got a stock cam from Brian tooley and upgraded lifters .225 he said I can reuse my stock push rods. I notice you got new ones that are smaller. Wonder if I need to do the same. I just got done torquing rocker arms to 22ft lb and I went to turn the crank and I get about a quarter turn then it feels stuck. Not sure if I should just try to continue rotating.?
Hi. Thank you for your video. We are doing the same now with 2023, 6.2 l. We use texas speed kit. But it kit doesn't have a new fuel pump lifter. Do you think it is a problem?
If the fuel pump lifter doesn’t show wear marks it should be fine. It’s up to you if you want to put one in while it’s apart or have to remove the vlom cover again
When your timing marks are pointing at each other on the crankshaft and the cam phaser, and you’re at top dead center, is that the intake and exhaust stroke, or is that the power stroke?
Great video. I should probably get ahead of this issue lol my Denali has 130k hasn’t had an issue yet and the engine is quite as the day I bought it. Anyways I probably will be doing this and might take the extra steps on changing out the oil filter and upgrading the pump. I woild go with a stage1 cam and some headers too with a new exhaust. Get a little life out of it.
I’d look just to a range disabler for the meantime as well www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
at 200,000 miles, should you get that far, take the vlom off, get a new one, take the heads off and clean the back side of the valves, then get all new lifters with new lifter trays. Re-assemble with new Gaskets and run Royal Purple Oil 0 - 20 motor oil. I got 250,887 miles before #7 lifter tray wore out and lifter turned taking the cam with it. Glittered the engine because of a $4.00 cheap worn out part.
Yes, 18 ft/lbs, but not part of the front cover sequence. Once the front cover is on, I finished the ones coming from the bottom. That’s just me though.
Hello I did a AFM DELETE ON A 2015 I marked the timing marks good also after install I check everything lined up perfect wen I was finished I ended up with a code P0016, truck drive and starts right up great but I get check engine light about 5th crank up and way to adjust this please let me know thank you
I don’t want to give poor advice, so a machine shop is recommended to go through them, make sure they are true (not warped), install new seals etc. I believe the way I removed the heads only 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence helps on aluminum heads and block from warping. For mine I simply cleaned them carefully with only gasket remover and a microfiber and plastic scraper and it all turned out okay. I also cleaned out the intake ports from all the gunk and it all seemed good.
Hey finished putting everything back on but now I’m getting a p0192 and p127c code which are both fuel rail pressure circuit low voltage codes and it won’t turn over without starter fluid and all the wires tested good so I’m thinking I should change out the fuel rail pressure sensor, do you have any other ideas on what I should check for
Was just watching the video again for the 100th time. Haha. When you tighten the cam phaser bolt down, you edit the video so it’s hard to see or determine how hard it was. I have the cam pin into the phaser and I just tightened mine down and I got the 58ft lb but it was hard to get the 90°. I got 45° then another 30° but not getting it all in one motion, I’m worried that bad boy will snap. My question is , how hard was it?
I was also worried about the additional 90* and getting it in one swoop may have been my problem as well (and wanting to make sure not to pass 90*). This is why I also made sure to get a new bolt so it wasn’t fatigued. I did my best for the 58 foot pounds and 90 degrees and it seemed to all work just fine
It’s pretty tight. It helped to have a second set of hands and go one tooth at a time, using a screw driver to help it and keep the chain as close to virtical as possible
Hi dany i have same problem 5.3l suburban 155000 ml i have one question when you have problem whith lifter the engine is shaking at the light or in traffik its like the engine wants to off taxometr is playing up and down 1-0.5 mph.thank you if you answer to me.
The lifter only makes sound unless it has also bent a pushrod, so it will shake at idle depending on if other damage happened. You will have to see as you tear it down what else is broken
Any idea how I can get the dowel out of the head it has driven itself in so far I can’t even grab it with needle noses should I try to use a tap to thread it or what
I would try to gently pry on it from inside the dowel with a flat head screw driver to lift it up, but be very careful not to scratch the mating surface of the head
If you do the delete it does require a new cam. If you only replace lifters it will only require a new cam if the bad lifters have scarred up the old cam, which is very likely. Once the heads and lifters are removed you can look down in at the cam and decide if you need to continue ruclips.net/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/видео.htmlsi=q5ZQwduYnCXPmKnS
I’ve had nothing but issues trying to get my Cam phaser back on top my timing chain. Already had the VVT break on me 2 times with 2 cam phasers. Am I missing something? Do I need smaller screw drivers?
That was a concern of mine, especially if any metal had gotten in them. Mine looked really good. Finding the small lines on the other lifter rollers was indicating metal has gotten in them but it looked like the lifters caught any small debris and I didn’t find any lines on the cam bearing portion
Cobalt for the inch pound and Dewalt for the foot pound www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVE1C84/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01JVE1C84&linkId=ff39b81a9bcc51b69162c331ea765925
Did anyone else have hard starting issues and a little rough idle while sitting in gear with your foot on the brake? Seems like a timing issue, I'm pretty certain that I didn't get the gears off a tooth. Also I kept the dod. I used regular gm lifters and a stock non afm cam. I'm kind of dumb founded. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
It may be the cam. I believe it’s specific to dod. Try putting the transmission into 6th gear if you have the 8 speed (or use a range disabler to turn off dod and maybe it will run correctly. My cam was chewed up and so I needed a new one and did the non-dod cam but also did the full delete
The driver side is cylinders 1-4. The cylinder closest to the firewall on the driver side is #4. The cylinders go in a row per side, not back and forth from side to side. Passenger side is cylinders 5,6,7,8 from the front of the engine to the back
If you have deleted the kit nothing will happen, but if you are still running the stock dod it can cause the lifter to not collapse or to stay collapsed. I believe that can bend a pushrod
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for your reply man I still have stock dod the reason for asking it’s because my Escalade is has a p06DD engine oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck off which I replaced the sensor that is in oil pump and 2 days later the check engine came back so I was wondering if is actually one of does solenoids on the vlom cover do you know by chance if they have something to do with it by chance ?
Here's my thoughts on this....first ,excellent video on doing this procedure! However, considering you've done all the hard parts ,why didn't you just order a new long block? Considering the damage done to the camshaft lobes and the fact you obviously had "have" metal particles floating throughout the engine. Also, considering the mileage, one would think that would have been the way to go. What we have with this video now is just another reason amongst the plethora of other reasons I never ever buy used vehicles. I also can't emphasize just how angry I would be with GM for not being responsible for this issue! I honestly feel for people who have purchased GM 5.3 or 6.2 vehicles with this engine. GM needs to fix this issue and make it right with current owners of this horribly designed engine! Smh.....
My thought was to tear it down and see what I found. I didn’t find shavings in the lifter filter, so I figured most metal ended up in the other lifters where you see the lines grooved into them. I considered my options, what held me back from a new long block was the fact it would come assembled with the dod lifters and I’d be starting over. I didn’t want to pull heads off a new engine. It definitely would be considered if this happens again or if I had problems afterwards. So far so good.
Imagine the person who is not mechanically inclined trying to tackle this work? Cost prohibitive to many who would have to have a professional do the work. I heard of the issues with AFM too that preceded your DOD. Not a fan of phasers either. I can see were these engines would become a literal train wreck if the oil was not properly changed: still prefer GM though. Excellent video
Cost of the long block and extra work to remove the old engine greatly exceeds the cost and difficulty of doing what has been done in this video. Just got done following along with this video to do a 2018 Silverado DoD delete and it was way easier than removing the engine entirely
The amount of work, hour wise in this job if you were to have it done at a shop plus parts is in the thousands of dollars. Add in a block cost and the labor of pulling the motor, your hours probably close to double as well as overall cost. Is it more guaranteed? Sure. This is muuuuuuch more cost effective, but should only be considered after weighing your options and the damage (obviously).
I’ll have to add it up and put it in the video description as an itemized list, but I also did a lot of things that may not have been necessary like the high pressure fuel pump, water pump, vacuum pump that I wanted to replace now rather than later , so plan on about $1,500 minimum to about $2,500 as seen in the video.
I’m working on my Gen V Lt1, for the small bolts like the rockers you keep mentioning 22flbs is it possible you meant 22 in-lbs??? Because it seems like I’m stripping the bolt
When deleting the DOD what did you do with the computer. It would have to be reprogramed to eliminate the DOD settings. Not much luck around here finding someone who can do that, also I wouldn't trust sending it away, if it got lost or screwed up you lost a truck.
@@HewigIsidore I haven’t noticed a difference in the valvetrain, but leaving the insulation off under the intake manifold, I could hear the direct injection a lot more. I left it off so I could check for fuel leaks, but I would have to take off the intake manifold to get it back under there. I probably should have just put it on.
Can’t tell you how many times I’ve watched these two videos. I’m in the middle of reassembly after doing dod vvt delete and your tutorial has been a HUGE help. Thanks man!
Glad it helped. It’s a big project. 👍🏼
Always impressed by your quality of work. Great job! Now with that annoying DOD/AFM gone, the Yukon will last you a very long time.
I know you've sold the Yukon at this point but just wanted to say thank you for the clear concise videos you've put together on the DOD delete. My 2014 GMC sierra lost a regular lifter at 270k last week. I feel lucky to have that many trouble free miles. Ive done plenty of LS stuff on my GTO and a DOD delete on my old 2009 GMC many years ago. Your videos made the gen 5 5.3 much less intimidating. The best automotive how to videos ive ever watched on youtube.
Thank you. I really appreciate it. Even though I sold it, I still have the knowledge and I’m always willing to help others as much as I can. 👍🏼
Nicely done video. We replaced the failed factory AFM system with with a stage 2 Tooley Racing cam, solid lifters, comp valve springs and rockers, hi flow oil pump, and Shortuning the ECM plus TCM. Serious increase in HP. Running only high performance 20-50w oil. Engine uses zero oil, small decrease in fuel economy but worth the added performance.
I thought newer engines needed the thinner oils that get up through the top of the motor? 20W-50 oil has got to thick as lard. What about when it gets cold and the oil flows even less upon start-up? Won't that damage the top of the engine? Either way, it sounds like you know more than I do on the subject at hand.
how much was the price for the tune?
Thank you so much for this! I basically had your videos as my go to source and THEN the AllData printouts as a backup. Incredibly informative! Just FYI for the other garage diy'ers out there, my timing chain retention mechanism was brittle. I tried to be careful with it when compressing it, but it ended up being a worst case scenario. The thing broke in half and fell down in the oil pan... I had to order the oil pump alignment tools and spent an extra day dropping the diff, steering gear, and pan! On the bright side, it made getting dot-to-dot easier, lol. Anyway, thanks again!
Could you share the alldata prints?
One of the best how to videos I have watched! Very detailed, patient, so impressed!! Definitely will subscribe to your channel.
Im doing it right now these videos are perfect. Great job guys. 🎉 Terrible serviceability everywhere maybe the worst ive experienced…
I feel so much more confident that I can begin this project, I am so so scared to do this but I have downloaded and save these two videos so that I can watch and rewatch as needed. Pray for me 😮😮
Careful when prying on the chain!! While following this series this weekend, the tip of my screwdriver broke off, and i had to remove the upper oil pan to find it… not a good time
Excellent job you may want to service the transmission if you haven’t done it already .
Danny - after watching you make the engine repairs on this video - though I am a mechanic and do most of the work myself on my own vehicles - I think I will just pass on this and just keep CLEAN OIL in my engine -even though I have some ticking noise 😐✌️2012 Chevy Avalanche , 5.3 L
Do the best you can. I know the new intervals of 10,000 miles is way too long and adds to it, but I also changes it sooner and it still happened. Do the best you can
Yes Guys, personally I have kept my DOD working along with “intelligent battery charging” on my 2008 gmc sierra sle Z71, 200,000, miles still running flawlessly. Guess I’m lucky.
2011 sierra 218,000 miles no problem and got a horrible tick from collapsed lifter doing a cam swap and dod delete now
@@hectorgarza228 I would suggest changing the oil with Castrol 5/20 and taking your truck for a 200 mile run at at least 60 or 70 mph. You may revive that lifter.
This helps a lot...I'll be doing mine when the heads are ready
Best Video I have ever seen.
Thanks for a great video. It was a big help in my DOD delete on my 2018 5.3 Silverado.
Great detail. Well done gents
Thanks a ton!!! Completed Video 1 and now one to video 2. Mine is in a 2019 Tahoe but is a 5.3 L83. When I pulled my High Pressure Fuel Pump Lifter the hole was positioned to the Driver Side. Do I put it back that way? Does it make a difference?
That timing chain was a beast but I got it.
Thanks again!!
It may be different for 2019 (as well as the vvt cam bolt like you’ll see later in the video. I would assume it’s best to go back how it came
Nobody replaces the crank shaft seal? Kind of hard I know because you can’t remove the cover from the oil pump plug. I guess they don’t leak?
Thanks for the video. Has been a big help.
Yeah, it’s always hard to know if you’ll make it worse when it’s not broken lol
Love the garage DIY dial indicator to determine TDC! Had me laughing but I’m sure it was on, just not exactly ideal.
Great video series. Thanks for sharing.
I just did my lifters thank to your detailed video.
Did just also replaced the cam shaft? Would it work without replacing the cam shaft?
The cam phaser bolt is actually not a one time use bolt. As per GM spec it is a 2 times use; with a different toeque spec for second time use.
Unless it’s overstretched and bottoms out, mine did that but my delete kit came with a new bolt
If I knew for sure a shop would be this meticulous I’d have them do it. Can I fly you out to MA? 😂
Just an awesome video. Great work. Thank you.
Mark the chain sprocket and block to be sure they don’t move and go back to the same spot
Fantastic video. Thank you for posting this. 🍻
Will the edge tuner work for this. You can turn the dod off on the edge tuner
Buen trabajo, solamente te sugiero cubrir con cinta adhesiva los puertos de admisión todo el tiempo así te evitarás tener sorpresas desagradables
Si, Tania bolsas plásticas puesto mucho del tiempo hasta que puesto la intake manifold
Great Video very informative a question did you remove all the solenoids and hardware from the valley pan?
Thanks again
No, it was all left in place
Great video. I love the fine details that you went through. Out of curiosity, and I may have missed it, why didn't you go ahead and replace the oil pump since you possibly had metal in the engine?
The oil pump requires pulling the engine (or dropping the oil pan and partially pulling the engine. It has to be perfectly centered upon re-installing (unless you buy a new pump apparently) or use tools that didn’t really work that you’ll see in the videos. I don’t find any metal in the oil lifter filter screen and the other lifters appeared to catch the other small pieces. I guess I was just at the point to give it a try or go with a whole new engine but didn’t want to pull the new heads off a new engine to remove the collapsable lifters. It was a little complicated
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I love this walkthrough...it's been so helpful. I'm in the middle of doing this to my wife's Escalade ESV, and I tried a little to walk that chain off the cog but decided to go ahead and pull the pan. It's a lot more work, but since it's only a 2WD, I only had to lower the steering rack to get it out. The 4WD models require pulling the differential...ewww. Glad I did because putting on that pump is much easier when it's new. Also, cleaning out all the build-up at the bottom of the pain makes me feel better. I was surprised at how much of the timing cover gasket fell into the pan even though I covered the opening.
Thank you. Great video!
When replacing the oil pump. What is the procedure? I have a new oem GM oil pump and chain tensioner. Will I need to align the new one or can I just stick it on there and torque it down?
To my understanding, a new pump can be installed normally whereas an old pump must be perfectly centered. Don’t take my word for it, that’s just what I have heard
I Have a 2022 Sierra and am glad it doesn't have DOD on it!
Actually, I believe it does it now on all 16 lifters now calling it dynamic fuel management. I’ve even hear of more lifter failures on newer models where they won’t allow the customer to take delivery until it’s had repairs performed
gmauthority.com/blog/gm/general-motors-technology/general-motors-propulsion-technology/general-motors-dynamic-fuel-management-cylinder-deactivation-technology/?_gl=1*6v9g9w*_ga*UGRSSmVyNEhSQ1VORGtadGd4bDZIckFLdjRUQ01lazNzTS1Od3l2c25kMzh3blhQTy1fRHhndWpQVTZUTldCWQ..
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage the salesman told me that because of the chip shortage, it was never put in. It's not even shown on my instrument cluster.
@@loviebrownlow6983that's partially correct. All engines still got all of the mechanical parts of the AFM/DOD. Due to chip shortages, some vehicles didn't get the ECM to make it work. Your engine still has this. It's just deactivated.
Will the camshaft shown in the video maintain the same engine torque as before, knowing that it is a camshaft intended for the 5.3 and 6.2 engines?
I watched this video with the meticulous care being given to every step then watched the Pakistani guys rebuild diesels and I felt conflicted....😀. All kidding aside I appreciate the video and information provided. GM has had issues with V8 push rod engine cams going flat since the 70s, guess they still prioritize profit over quality.
Roller cams solved that issue.
Now these blokes have to deal with DOD?
Life is to complicated
Awesome video. Great camera and audio. The only question I have is that I didn't see the solenoids that operate the old AFM lifters. Did that connector and solenoid remain connected or removed? I thought it was mounted on the valley cover plate but didn't see it in your video. Thanks again for filming and sharing this.
Yes, all solenoids are on the bottom of the VLOM valley plate. They are still there, just not being used. It could make it easier in the event you ever wanted dod again.
Excellent work Dan !
Thanks! Hopefully it can help some people out
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage once I'm out of warranty... I will be referring back to these video series.
I wanna do this job but how do i know if my engine is worth saving?
So… I dropped my timing chain off the crank gear. Any tips on getting it back on? I can’t see obviously with the oil pump still in place and the chain just moves freely now 😢
You should be able to pull the chain back up with a magnet and lift the chain from the top for it to catch the crank gear, then walk the chain back over the cam gear. Make sure the crank locked at tip dead center as shown in the video so the timing isn’t off. If you remove the oil pump it won’t come all the way off and you’ll need to take the front cover of the oil pump off to put shims in and center it in 3 places, so you want to avoid messing with it if possible
How did you cam out without dropping the oil pan
I am surprised you didn’t put a bigger mild performance cam, new double roller timing, chain and gears in as well???
I wanted as few variables as possible, and a stock replacement. I didn’t want to worry about aftermarket components, new valve springs, and worse fuel economy. The truck has plenty of power as it comes, and it’s a family vehicle
ruclips.net/video/6VzX7rETZIY/видео.htmlsi=DxLaVU01hJaxqi6-
Thank you very much for sharing this great video.
Glad you enjoyed it. I wished I had one to follow when I was doing it. There are other good ones, but pulling the engine and lengthy. I’m glad to hear they are being enjoyed
So glad I don't have this year GM vehicle. My 07 Silverado 1500 has the 4.3 L v6. Thank God it doesn't have the AFM
The thing is I really wanted the 5.3L motor to tow my travel trailer. The V6 can't handle it, the LS motor would definitely do the job. The conversion would cost too much money 💰
Nice Video man, im about to do my buddies Silverado, had a couple questions, ive done gen 4s and was wondering if u ended up removing the oil pan and oil pump at all? Every video i see they remove both . Also ive seen they also lock the phaser.
The Gen 5 has some differences that make it a little more difficult. The oil pump goes down into the oil pan, so it cannot be removed without dropping the pan. It also has a sensor (I believe for the variable oil pump) that has a cord going into the bottom of the oil pan area which also would need to be removed and is not accessible with the pan on. The most challenging part of the oil pump is that it must be perfectly centered when reinstalled, and the centering tools they sell do not do a good job of that. You would need to take the oil pump cover off and put .002 shims around the pump on 3 places to try to center it again. For these reasons, I believe the shop manual calls to pull the engine and charges 34 hours. In the video we work around the oil pump to avoid all this. It does leave some problems if you had a lot of metal shavings in the engine, so you’ll decide if you want a new oil pump. Leaving the oil pump on makes it impossible to see the crank timing dot, so pay attention to how we lock the crank at Top dead center for piston 1 (driver side) and look for the alignment arrow to point down. You also have to walk the chain off the timing gear. It’s all in the videos, but there is a reason we do what we do. If you plan to pull the engine out, do all the oil pump and seals on the pan. Locking the phaser is best if you are gong to a larger cam where it would be a problem for the phaser to rotate. If using the stock replacement non-DOD cam as you see in this video, leave the phaser unlocked for better low end torque and better all around performance.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage man! I appreciate you! Thanks for replying & God bless You!
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
Mr Danny when you can come and work on my suburban 😂
Unfortunately I have to tear down my 5.3l to determine the current lifter failure damage. I am wondering why you didn't clean up the build up on the pistons, I am not a mechanic but love to learn new stuff on my vehicles to save money vs paying high labor rates good mechanics charge. I am thinking just to replace all the lifters if i have no cam damage but going the long block route remanufactured with delete of AFM already installed if I can find one rebuilt this way.
I cleaned them a little, but the less mess I made the better for contamination. I spent a lot of time on the head gasket mating surfaces and the intake valve ports
Great job on the work and taking the time to video. Appreciate it!
Did you rebuild the cam phaser and put in a limiter or are you still keeping it variable?
I kept it stock because I used a stock replacement cam. There is a great video out there for the lockout ruclips.net/video/FEvH-g_RfKI/видео.htmlsi=5vxcn_mUrjaY5e2P
Why the thread sealant on the rocket arm bolts? Appears to be a dead hole and I cannot find on Mitchell diy where they add anything to the rocket arm bolt. I could see a little blue loctite but I’m afraid that the white thread sealant might get on the mating surface between the head and the rocket arm. 17:46
Thread sealant is used similar to thread locker. Oils may cause the threads to become loose
my only concern would be that pesky pickup tube o-ring in the back of my mind. I would of replaced it while doing all that work?
For the oil pump?
Super nice video sr Super well done 👏
Incredible documentation! How does it run now? What is the fuel mileage reduction without DOD? Why did you not install a cam phaser plug? I see mod shops do that with the lifter upgrade. Thx....
Runs just the same as factory, 1 mpg difference on fuel economy. I kept the cam phaser (did not lock the VVT) since the new cam spec was similar to factory. Aggressive cams may need it locked but a factory spec allows you to maintain better low end torque with the VVT.
ruclips.net/video/ddthA_E5Yqc/видео.htmlsi=jITK80oQzcoB_ji1
Great thx! The low end torque is important for an SUV. So then you still have VVT?
@@gbass7328 yeah, it kept the VVT. My understanding is bigger cams force you to lock it out so you don’t have piston to valve contact, but for the stock cam spec it’s fine
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage👍🏻
Do your self a favor invest in a good digital torque wrench I have a Snap On and love it because it makes life easier love your videos and have a blessed day today 🙏
Hey Danny, love the video. I am doing this repair at home myself. I left the engine in the car, now I am regretting it, and I was able to take all the parts apart and get the phaser out. However, after installing the new cam and camp plate, I am stuck and I am not able to get the new phaser in. I broke one last night and I just picked up a brand new phaser for $225 and I don’t want to break another one. It looks like you got the phaser back in easy. How do you do that? I am at the point of trying to drop the oil pan and then remove the oil pump so I can get that chain back around the phaser.
If the vlom cover is still off, I found it useful to push the cam slightly forward towards the front of the car with your fingers so you can line up the phaser and rotate the cam until the nub on the cam seats in the phaser hole. It really helps to have someone else there to help walk the chain on. It’s tight but one link at a time it’s possible. Be sure the timing arrow is pointed directly down and the crank has not moved at all (hopefully you have the flywheel tool in place to lock it from moving).
Thank you for the reply. I was able to finally get it on by loosening the oil pump bolts, took 5 hours but got it all lined up with cylinder 1 TDC. Thank you!
When tuning the ecu and Tcm do you have to adjust the slip on the torque converter? I have completed the dod delete and have no check engine light but I noticed when driving i feel a slight jerk when truck is shifting . It’s a 2019 Silverado 5.3. I used factory camshaft. Or could the torque converter be going bad?
The dod can destroy the transmission as it goes in and out of 4 cylinder mode. There are a lot of torque converter problems and the shudder is common. Disabling the dod would be the real fix as you have. You can try the updated fluid that has helped a lot, but the damage may be done ruclips.net/video/Bu_isDRd9lI/видео.htmlsi=DCz52JaCAj1GyPNA
The part of the water pump damaged was the housing you could have unbolted the water pump from the holes in the pulley and put the water pump in the other housing I did not see you block off the oil ports for the afm ports
This is video 2. See video 1
Thank you! Very informative
Your thoughts, after doing this, would it have been easier pulling the motor? Or no?
It’s hard to say. Pulling the engine, I would have done more with removing the oil pan and not having the chain pull over the timing set. I would have probably also added a new oil pump and seals..you saw all the oil come out of the head bolt holes- it would have been better to dump the engine upside down- but more work aligning the transmission back up. Part of me would have wanted a whole new engine, but they all come with the bad lifters
Where are you getting the info on the vehicle such as torque specs, replacement parts, ect?
I have googled each part, looking for GM replacements or even gone to the dealership to find what they have in their system
Do you need to add a cam phase limiter? Just wondering because I didn’t do it and now I’m watching other videos that people did add the limiter
For stock replacement cam specs it’s better not to add the limiter so you take advantage of the variable valve timing. If you install a larger duration cam, my understanding is that it may be needed to avoid any piston to valve clearance.
I got a stock cam from Brian tooley and upgraded lifters .225 he said I can reuse my stock push rods. I notice you got new ones that are smaller. Wonder if I need to do the same. I just got done torquing rocker arms to 22ft lb and I went to turn the crank and I get about a quarter turn then it feels stuck. Not sure if I should just try to continue rotating.?
Hi. Thank you for your video. We are doing the same now with 2023, 6.2 l. We use texas speed kit. But it kit doesn't have a new fuel pump lifter. Do you think it is a problem?
If the fuel pump lifter doesn’t show wear marks it should be fine. It’s up to you if you want to put one in while it’s apart or have to remove the vlom cover again
Hey where you're located to make appointment to fix my 2022 Suburban engine?
I love you video if I could donated I would I just have one question. Why didn’t you guys go with 5w30 instead of 0w20?
On older vehicles I ran 5w30 and the only reason I was hesitant was this was I worried designed for 5w20 for the lifters. I could probably do 5w30 now
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage absolutley not ! vvt, oil galley ways all designed for 0-20, oil pump etc. Love the video Danny, excellent work... you da man !
When your timing marks are pointing at each other on the crankshaft and the cam phaser, and you’re at top dead center, is that the intake and exhaust stroke, or is that the power stroke?
I believe it was the exhaust stroke with the arrow, pointing to the dot.
Great video. I should probably get ahead of this issue lol my Denali has 130k hasn’t had an issue yet and the engine is quite as the day I bought it.
Anyways I probably will be doing this and might take the extra steps on changing out the oil filter and upgrading the pump. I woild go with a stage1 cam and some headers too with a new exhaust. Get a little life out of it.
I’d look just to a range disabler for the meantime as well www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
at 200,000 miles, should you get that far, take the vlom off, get a new one, take the heads off and clean the back side of the valves, then get all new lifters with new lifter trays. Re-assemble with new Gaskets and run Royal Purple Oil 0 - 20 motor oil. I got 250,887 miles before #7 lifter tray wore out and lifter turned taking the cam with it. Glittered the engine because of a $4.00 cheap worn out part.
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethank you !! I didn’t know they made this
I didn't see this in the video or in the comments, but the two bolts that joins the oil pan to the timing cover, are those torqued after the fronts?
Yes, 18 ft/lbs, but not part of the front cover sequence. Once the front cover is on, I finished the ones coming from the bottom. That’s just me though.
Can you put a metal plug into where the lifter filter goes? Stopping oil pressure from being inside the vlom.
I’m not sure. Perhaps Brain Tooley racing can answer that.
I will send them a message and post my findings here.
You can get lifter plugs from texas speed
Great video sr! I have 2016 cadillac escalade 6.2L has misfire cylinders #2 do i have to remove the cam too? Or just replacement the lifters?
I would remove the lifters and look down in and see if the cam is chewed up
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageok thank you for u time, it looks a lot work, i can't go that far 😔
Is the passenger side head bolts the same torque specs as driver side, the first top one specifically
Yes, they all have the same torque and procedure you will see in the video, except the driver side front Allen bolt
Hello I did a AFM DELETE ON A 2015 I marked the timing marks good also after install I check everything lined up perfect wen I was finished I ended up with a code P0016, truck drive and starts right up great but I get check engine light about 5th crank up and way to adjust this please let me know thank you
Did you ever solve this? Hopefully, it was something easy. If you didn't pull the oil pump, I'm curious if you were off a tooth like he was.
Did i miss the DOD delete part? You replaced cam and lifters??? What is the delete kit part? I’m confused
I also plugged the oil passages and a tune in the end. The cam is necessary as a non-dod
It’s at 42:47 into video 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=xdFBpqomfcG-mHiQ
Hello. I've been putting together escalade 6.2 year 2009 lately until i came across lifters. Does it matter which side the hole on lifters is pointed?
I have been told it does not matter for the lifters, but you may want to contact a professional mechanic at a dealership to also verify
Some prcedures say to tighten the crank bolt to 37 ft lbs then clock to 140, I have a 2011 5.3L, is it different for this motor than yours?
@@flyguy9018 I would follow the torque specs for your specific engine
Danny, the heads should be taken to the machin shop for rectification, or should not?
I don’t want to give poor advice, so a machine shop is recommended to go through them, make sure they are true (not warped), install new seals etc. I believe the way I removed the heads only 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence helps on aluminum heads and block from warping. For mine I simply cleaned them carefully with only gasket remover and a microfiber and plastic scraper and it all turned out okay. I also cleaned out the intake ports from all the gunk and it all seemed good.
@dannyjohnsonsgarage thank you very much for your advice, I really appreciate.
Was t there some mods that have to be done to lower intake manifold? Maybe that just the older AFM delete kits? Thanks
Not that I know of for this L86 engine
Great video.
Hey finished putting everything back on but now I’m getting a p0192 and p127c code which are both fuel rail pressure circuit low voltage codes and it won’t turn over without starter fluid and all the wires tested good so I’m thinking I should change out the fuel rail pressure sensor, do you have any other ideas on what I should check for
Sounds like the fuel rail pressure sensor to me as well.
Was just watching the video again for the 100th time. Haha. When you tighten the cam phaser bolt down, you edit the video so it’s hard to see or determine how hard it was. I have the cam pin into the phaser and I just tightened mine down and I got the 58ft lb but it was hard to get the 90°. I got 45° then another 30° but not getting it all in one motion, I’m worried that bad boy will snap. My question is , how hard was it?
I was also worried about the additional 90* and getting it in one swoop may have been my problem as well (and wanting to make sure not to pass 90*). This is why I also made sure to get a new bolt so it wasn’t fatigued. I did my best for the 58 foot pounds and 90 degrees and it seemed to all work just fine
Right on. Thanks for the reply.
How were u able to place chain in front of the cam phaser when walking it back on
It’s pretty tight. It helped to have a second set of hands and go one tooth at a time, using a screw driver to help it and keep the chain as close to virtical as possible
Hi dany i have same problem 5.3l suburban 155000 ml i have one question when you have problem whith lifter the engine is shaking at the light or in traffik its like the engine wants to off taxometr is playing up and down 1-0.5 mph.thank you if you answer to me.
The lifter only makes sound unless it has also bent a pushrod, so it will shake at idle depending on if other damage happened. You will have to see as you tear it down what else is broken
Did you have to get a tune
Yes, it shows it at the end of the video. I believe it’s a variable pressure oil pump so without turning it off it could mess up the flow
Great Video, thanks.
Any idea how I can get the dowel out of the head it has driven itself in so far I can’t even grab it with needle noses should I try to use a tap to thread it or what
I would try to gently pry on it from inside the dowel with a flat head screw driver to lift it up, but be very careful not to scratch the mating surface of the head
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage got it out thanks man
Yes you guys rock Peace out
Do you have to replace the camshaft as well? Or will it work without replacing the camshaft?
If you do the delete it does require a new cam. If you only replace lifters it will only require a new cam if the bad lifters have scarred up the old cam, which is very likely. Once the heads and lifters are removed you can look down in at the cam and decide if you need to continue
ruclips.net/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/видео.htmlsi=q5ZQwduYnCXPmKnS
I’ve had nothing but issues trying to get my Cam phaser back on top my timing chain. Already had the VVT break on me 2 times with 2 cam phasers. Am I missing something? Do I need smaller screw drivers?
Are you doing this alone or with a second set of hands?
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage alone, do I need 2 hands?
How did your cam bearings look? I’ve got 150k and I just pulled the cam out. The don’t look bad but they definitely have 150k on them.
That was a concern of mine, especially if any metal had gotten in them. Mine looked really good. Finding the small lines on the other lifter rollers was indicating metal has gotten in them but it looked like the lifters caught any small debris and I didn’t find any lines on the cam bearing portion
@danny johnson's garage may i ask what software was being used by your friend to delete the AFM programming and to set up the new tuning?
I’m not sure the brand he uses.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage well heck...
What torque wrench is that you’re using? Looks like it works good
Cobalt for the inch pound and Dewalt for the foot pound www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JVE1C84/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=2004047-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B01JVE1C84&linkId=ff39b81a9bcc51b69162c331ea765925
Did anyone else have hard starting issues and a little rough idle while sitting in gear with your foot on the brake? Seems like a timing issue, I'm pretty certain that I didn't get the gears off a tooth. Also I kept the dod. I used regular gm lifters and a stock non afm cam. I'm kind of dumb founded. Any ideas greatly appreciated.
It may be the cam. I believe it’s specific to dod. Try putting the transmission into 6th gear if you have the 8 speed (or use a range disabler to turn off dod and maybe it will run correctly. My cam was chewed up and so I needed a new one and did the non-dod cam but also did the full delete
Have you had the computer flashed to delete the afm program
When you tightened #7 exhaust valve you tightened #6 so you through me completely off #7 is the far back cylinder closest to firewall on driver side.
The driver side is cylinders 1-4. The cylinder closest to the firewall on the driver side is #4. The cylinders go in a row per side, not back and forth from side to side. Passenger side is cylinders 5,6,7,8 from the front of the engine to the back
Hey on the vlom cover what can happen if one of the solenoid go bad or get stuck
If you have deleted the kit nothing will happen, but if you are still running the stock dod it can cause the lifter to not collapse or to stay collapsed. I believe that can bend a pushrod
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage thanks for your reply man I still have stock dod the reason for asking it’s because my Escalade is has a p06DD engine oil pressure control solenoid valve stuck off which I replaced the sensor that is in oil pump and 2 days later the check engine came back so I was wondering if is actually one of does solenoids on the vlom cover do you know by chance if they have something to do with it by chance ?
Just to make sure, the camshaft is for a 5.3 but your engine is a 6.2. Any issues?
I would definitely talk to brain tooley racing before ordering to verify, but I believe it’s also for the L8T which is a 6.6L.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage another question. Will this GM 12642273 Fuel Pump Follower Lifter work with the camshaft you have? I have the same kit
Here's my thoughts on this....first ,excellent video on doing this procedure! However, considering you've done all the hard parts ,why didn't you just order a new long block? Considering the damage done to the camshaft lobes and the fact you obviously had "have" metal particles floating throughout the engine. Also, considering the mileage, one would think that would have been the way to go. What we have with this video now is just another reason amongst the plethora of other reasons I never ever buy used vehicles. I also can't emphasize just how angry I would be with GM for not being responsible for this issue! I honestly feel for people who have purchased GM 5.3 or 6.2 vehicles with this engine. GM needs to fix this issue and make it right with current owners of this horribly designed engine! Smh.....
My thought was to tear it down and see what I found. I didn’t find shavings in the lifter filter, so I figured most metal ended up in the other lifters where you see the lines grooved into them. I considered my options, what held me back from a new long block was the fact it would come assembled with the dod lifters and I’d be starting over. I didn’t want to pull heads off a new engine. It definitely would be considered if this happens again or if I had problems afterwards. So far so good.
Imagine the person who is not mechanically inclined trying to tackle this work?
Cost prohibitive to many who would have to have a professional do the work.
I heard of the issues with AFM too that preceded your DOD. Not a fan of phasers either. I can see were these engines would become a literal train wreck if the oil was not properly changed: still prefer GM though.
Excellent video
No different than a dealer tech doing it and doing it fast. At least this was done with love
Cost of the long block and extra work to remove the old engine greatly exceeds the cost and difficulty of doing what has been done in this video. Just got done following along with this video to do a 2018 Silverado DoD delete and it was way easier than removing the engine entirely
The amount of work, hour wise in this job if you were to have it done at a shop plus parts is in the thousands of dollars. Add in a block cost and the labor of pulling the motor, your hours probably close to double as well as overall cost. Is it more guaranteed? Sure. This is muuuuuuch more cost effective, but should only be considered after weighing your options and the damage (obviously).
If you don't mind me asking. Roughly how much total were all the parts to do this? Just so i can budget for it for when i decide to do this
I’ll have to add it up and put it in the video description as an itemized list, but I also did a lot of things that may not have been necessary like the high pressure fuel pump, water pump, vacuum pump that I wanted to replace now rather than later , so plan on about $1,500 minimum to about $2,500 as seen in the video.
Awesome! Thank you!
So it keeps the stock vlom cover? Doesn't need to be changed to non DOD cover?
Yes. You can keep the stock covered the solonoids are just turned off
I’m working on my Gen V Lt1, for the small bolts like the rockers you keep mentioning 22flbs is it possible you meant 22 in-lbs??? Because it seems like I’m stripping the bolt
Use this guide ratedrmotorsports.com/blogs/lt-torque-specs/lt-torque-specs?srsltid=AfmBOoqyRDi8v7RzY602_TKKGnW-FSqPCrGS4X2PNeLuUNVPdD7xnztk
It says valve rocker arm bolts 22 ft lbs in the guide
When deleting the DOD what did you do with the computer. It would have to be reprogramed
to eliminate the DOD settings. Not much luck around here finding someone who can do that, also I wouldn't trust sending it away, if it got lost or screwed up you lost a truck.
Yes, there are companies you can send it out to have it done
Why use the shorter Chromoly Pushrods on a stock valvetrain components?
BTR told me to do so because they are LS7 lifters. According to them, they require 7.80” over factory 7.85”
Does your valvetrain seem quieter, the same or louder during engine operation with the Chromoly Pushrods?
@@HewigIsidore I haven’t noticed a difference in the valvetrain, but leaving the insulation off under the intake manifold, I could hear the direct injection a lot more. I left it off so I could check for fuel leaks, but I would have to take off the intake manifold to get it back under there. I probably should have just put it on.
Can nub is at 3 o clock but you kept saying 9?
3’o clock, sorry