Currently doing mine on my 2015 Escalade. Ordered my kit from Texas Speed. Everything is going smooth so far. Your videos were very informative. I also decided to do my oil pump, fuel pump etc.... Might as well while were in there. Thanks for the videos
Thank you for sharing this video. Amazing presentation, in your spreadsheet, regarding the part numbers (where do you get them as dealerships are so reluctant to share this vital information because, as they told me, "we do not want you to go on the Internet and buy them"), and the actual cost of all of them. Very, but very useful in order for me to get a specific picture of all the parts involved and cost. Now, I am looking at the step-by-step video on how to replace them LOL.
Doing my 11 escalade right now not bad at all I recommend getting the fancy torque wrench with the angle on it. If your semi handy under the hood shouldn't be to bad. Ps you don't have to necessarily take the motor out I just removed the front end
I've never worked on GM's but have done BMW engine swaps, and tuning for years. I was hesitant to learn another platform, but this video definitely got me over the line!
Super helpful! Thank you. Im planning this for my 2018 yukon. Its ok right now but its got 84k on it so… and like you said, when you’re that deep in the engine, you may as well replace some parts. 👍🏻 the kits from Texas Speed looks to be the way Im gonna go
Got the lifter failure in multiple lifters in bank #1 with two push rods being bent. Although the GM parts are crap I changed my oil between 6k-7k miles so I'm a bit responsible due to not fully understanding how these GM engines consume oil. I'm on the path to either doing a DFM delete or fixing the issue and washing my hands. I have a 2019 chevy Silverado lt trail boss 5.3. Your videos are quite helpful so I appreciate your insight.
I feel your pain for sure. You probably already saw the video, but if not here is my walkthrough ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=g3Zj-__mlGt_bPnV
I just replaced all lifters and cam shaft; pretty much everything that has to be replaced for a total of $3,500 of which $1,000 was labor and the rest was GM parts. I had previously gone to the local Chevy dealer who said "we will not do that repair because we can't guarantee positive results but we'll install a brand new 5.3 GM engine for 12k total" of course.. After getting referrals from friends and other locals, I connected with this awesome owner/mechanic one man shop in Nogales, Arizona, it has been two months and it runs like a "brand new" 09 Chevy Avalanche. BTW, I also ordered an AFM/DFM disabler made by Cytrobe from Amazon and I haven't looked back. Folks, shop for the cost of this repair, I know this may depend on what part of the country you're located but it's well worth it. Damn this AFM fiasco..breath new life to your GM 3.5, they are great engines. If you're in Arizona, I'll happily send you Carlos' way.
@@aprilgeneric8027 I can tell you on the older 5.3's with AFM if you run it with AFM disabled and then for some reason it gets unplugged or goes bad, you will likely end up with at minimum old grime getting knocked loose and plugging up that little filter under the oil pressure sensor. It's not a horrible job getting it out and cleaning or replacing it but it can take several drive cycles before it's done getting plugged up. The worst part is listening to the low oil pressure/stop engine chime when it gets plugged up even thought your engine still likely has good oil pressure...the sensor just doesn't read it that way because the filter is plugged below it. I would agree with you though, getting the AFM disabled permanently at the ECM or with a tuner is the best way to go.
@JasontheNativeTraveler they replaced one lifter at 30k miles, now at 120k they are replacing all lifters and cam for $7,700. '20 Sierra Elevation 5.3L
This is so ridiculous to be having to deal with this on such low mileage and new overpriced vehicles. I got the same problem with my GMC Sierra and my brothers got the same problem with his Chevy Tahoe and both vehicles are under 50,000 miles.
@ihavethedocuments2580 Even with clean oil, the mechanical nature of the lifter expanding and collapsing will eventually cause a mushrooming effect. Over time the lifter will stay collapsed and be unable to expand without manipulation or need replacement.
Mine just had lifter go out and take out the cam on my 2019 Silverado on my way home to Minnesota from Virginia. Went out in West Virginia. Was looking at around $7500 total cost. Luckily I bought the truck gm certified used. Chevy dealer told me it is 100% covered with no cost to me. Just have to go back and pick it up next week.
I’d look into a range disabler for the next one to last longer. Here it is on my Amazon affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
yep. Have that noise on my 2011 Caprice PPV. I'm gathering all the Parts now. A Band-aid is I'm running redline 10w-60 Full synthetic and a Purolator Boss Oil filter. Noise is totally gone and no misfires HOWEVER, I do believe the roller on the lifter is NOT running true on the cam. Doing Cam, lifters, oil pump, timing chain, water-pump, new hardened pushrods and all new rocker arms.
I just finished and posted the full walkthrough with the engine still in the truck if you’re interested ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=Y1ZBrhp4THprLbuy
I've not done the Gen V engines yet, but Gen IV's can be done, including a factory cam, in about 6 hours for around $350. Do a couple of them a week...
Sounds about right. It’s a big job. I have the full walkthrough if you’re interested interested (or just want to know what will be involved) ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=QSo7uUzyIR9pkQo2
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
That is a big concern. In the teardown you will see other lifters have marks in them where the debris had got stuck on the other rollers. Hopefully, they have caught most of the debris and are being replaced. There is a lifter filter as well you will see removed in video 2, so investigation is important to see just how bad it was. There is always a risk of contamination and flushing the oil galleys would be best with a oil pump removal (engine needs to come out or at least lifted to drop the oil pan to get that far in. On the other hand, removing the cam, pushing a new cam in with assembly grease can push any left over debris out (you’ll want to clean and inspect the camshaft bearings but they can’t be removed with the engine in as well unless you also remove the ac condenser and grill). DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
You have motivated me to do this myself. My only hesitation is I have 2015 suburban L83 engine, based on your list do all those parts fit in a l83 engine or is there certain part in your list that should be different for my type of engine. Cause I don’t know what to buy and it would suck to know in the middle of the process that those parts won’t fit. You got a new subscriber
To my knowledge all the parts are the same other than the head gaskets are different for the 5.3. I would watch my walkthrough videos and take notes on parts, then speak with Brian Tooley racing or your GM parts counter to verify the part numbers fit the 5.3L. If you have a question on a part I would be happy to see what I can see for it as well if you comment on the video (that’s the best way for me to see it). ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=d7NI4Y-g8LOHTzun
I would say if not knowing what to replace is your biggest known fear, don’t build an engine. You will be faced with 20 unknown new fears. Like, what ring gap do i need to file my rings to? How scored are my piston skirts? Putting new rings, means you need to crosshatch the bores. Are my bores warped? Did metal go through the bearings? You know the cam bearings are worn so now i need a special tool to press those in. How do you even measure your bearing clearance anyways? more special tools. Then, are the bearings on back order? Do i need a hpfp shim? how do i measure that? Then you put it all back together and it has a tick. What is that sound? 😂. I say if you know the answer to all these then you’re ready to do it yourself. There’s no shame to having a pro do it right the first time.
This is so sad. My 2000 tahoe with the 'dinosaur" small block 350 will never be sold. The 5.3 may make more power, but I could never deal with this. My respect to all of y'all going through this.
Non DOD engines rarely fail.....my 07 6.2 escalade has 0 problems at 150k my wifes 17 however has a lifter tapping at 101k which is why im here and about to call texas speed for a kit
I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3. I dont have any problems and have an HP Tuner that I used to disable the DOD. I am looking at possibly doing the full physical delete this spring. If I do this job, I just can't put the old exhaust back on. I would have to do the rear main seal, too. I would want to replace everything while Im there. The truck has always had full synthetic oil changes ever 3k miles. The truck also has a trans cooler and oil cooler. So, hopefully, that keeps keeps the torque converter from getting cooked.
I don’t know if you would know this, but I assume the delete process should be identical if you are doing this on a newer GM truck with DFM instead of AFM? Main difference would be 16 collapsible lifters instead of 8.
I believe the process is similar but I’ve heard some differences with the cam gear and it being harder to walk the chain off if trying to do it inside the vehicle without removing the engine
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethank you sir !! I rewatched the video and seen you did put the part number is the spreadsheet on screen ! lol sorry !!! I had that paused for about an hour going back and forth making sure I got the right parts!! Jw why not replace the rocker arms and springs ? Do I need too ? Anything you would do differently if you could do it all over again ? That darn water pump is near $600 now .. should I just put the old one back on ? Or is a ton of work to redo the water pump when she fails ? Sorry I got lots of questions. Just about to do this to my dream Escalade and want it done right !! Thank you again !
Danny and idea how much just the left side lifters should be? Having done as we speak and want to make sure the Cadillac dealer isn’t over charging me… thx
If the cam has not been damaged or any damage to the cylinder head, valve etc I would expect about $2-3k tops. If they have to get into removing the cam and such it could be up to $7k+. My advice would be if they do a cam to have all the lifters replaced at that time. The dealership may only do stock replacement lifters per their policy. It is a large job that should be an engine out procedure. The techs themselves will get it done quicker with the engine still in as I did, but watch this to see why it’s so expensive: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=eBOlgSX5wtssha2w
Ok thx. They did check the cam and it was ok. They originally said $4k for the left side lifters. Since I am a long time GM buyer I asked GM for $ assistance and they are… it’s costing me $1700 so guess they are helping me out but not as much as I originally thought
Changing valve springs are not required on the L86? Can you tell us the the length difference between stock and replacement push rods? Thank you for sharing this info.
Stock push rods are 7.85” and the ones BTR recommended were Ls7 length 7.80” Valve springs were not recommended for being a stock cam spec replacement.
@@bentabor9410 here is the step by step if you want it DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
Thank you for posting this video… and this link as well. I’ll be definitely referencing is and doing it as I do NOT have thousands to spend at a shop. Gotta learn sometime right? 😅
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the non-stock pushrods doing? I'm talking with a mechanic shop about AFM Delete kit on a 2020 5.3L Tahoe and my mechanic isn't aware of the non-stock different sized pushrods. I'm trying to inform him that people online are recommending to go with the non-stock ones, but I don't know the exact reason why and if it is working better. I'd like to hear if you still recommend using the non-stock pushrods. Thank you.
I know you said in your video that you did OE stock cam and you didn't delete the VVT was the main reason for not deleting the VVT because the replacement of the timing chain cover which would mean you would have to drop the oil pan or was there other reasons for not going stage 1 vs OE
I kept the VVT because it offers the best performance for low end torque on a stock cam. I believe when you go to larger stage cams it may require the VVT delete to keep valve to piston clearance. I didn’t go with a different cam just to keep the rest simple with valve springs and anything else
Very tedious job, you have to be very fluent and have patience on doing this and correct with accuracy. I would of done the same also... since im in here i will change this which isnt a bad idea, especially when your in this deep, i wanted to buy a 2015 Yukon XL 6.2L with 89,000km on it, which is still low, but i know i want this AFM delete kit done but aince your video shows what to do and how to do it "PROPERLY" i think i may consider the Yukon and i have an edge on the sales to let him know this job will be $9000 so it will give me wiggle room as they go by dealership cost. Oh they want $45000 for the Yukon XL at the dealership Wish me luck cause if i get it for the right price ill be doing this also makes a great resale value too cause not only me but someone like me or yourself is doing research on the engines and probably heard the problems about this AFM/DOD issue. But having this done and recorded and documentation on it being done will may get them to buy it etc... but yeah if i get this SUV ill most likely do this to it. Last thing i want is a knocking engine or worst...
Yeah, I would also look through my playlist for the other things you will likely need. Suspension (costly to replace the Magneride), transmission harness, gps antenna, tail lights..it’s a lot of smaller things but it should all be considered Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles ruclips.net/p/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr
DAMN. THAT SUCKS!! I got a 08 Silverado 5.3, 280k miles on it and the oil pressure just started to go down. I’m doing the DOD delete and a Texas Speed Cam with the new cam bearings and of course the tune 😁😁😁😁😁😁
Quick question I didn’t have compression on cylinder 6 they took about a week to diagnose my truck it’s the 5.3 non dfm or afm they explain to me that they ordered cam and lifter with your experience u believe that’s what’s causing my low compression mind you this I had it on a certified well known shop before hand and they recommended me a engine replacement so I don’t know what to believe
I would ask them what exactly they say is the reason. To me it sounds like a bent pushrod that could cause low compression by the valve not closing. However, other things may also cause no compression, including piston problems. It very well may be more affordable (or easy and guaranteed for them) to put a new engine in
Thank you for a great video ! 2012 Suburban of mine just did the same sound as you shown in this video after a ''jiffylobotomy" oil change. A mechanic said I need a new engine, ~$12,000 on a blue book $10,000 vehicle. I drove it home with less sound . 6 days later I started it up, no sound !!! How could that be ??? I'm in Redondo Beach, State of Californication , getting it right up there by mechanics. Any recommendations ? Do you know anyone trustworthy around Redondo Beach CA ???
When bearings fail they can also quiet down as they heat or cool. Mine stayed out as a squeak that I figured may have been a belt or pulley but over time it will be constant
did you have any issues with the cam gear popping off?? mine just did after dod delete with you exact parts.... my vales are screwed... timing was perfect... the sprocket slipped and caused timing to jump !!!
Unfortunately nearly immediately… the nub appears much smaller than the original did you notice this ? Maybe I got a defective part? I see on Amazon one reviewer had this exact issue!!
I had 94,000 miles. It was a regular lifter that failed. I was also worried about the common dod lifter failure so I deleted it at the time Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv ruclips.net/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/видео.html
It seems it would have been easier to drop a Jasper reman in than tear down. I just pray the metal shavings didn’t do damage to the other areas. Hope it worked out. Big job.
Only thing that makes me nervous about this is the programming for the new cam......Id like to stay diy....do you know if texas speed sells a matched programmer for the cam or is the programming strictly for disabling the AFM function......this is the one thing alot of videos arent clear about. I live in a county that requires emission testing and that check engine light cant be on for any reason
Yes, direct injection and the fuel pump lifter looked good but I replaced it ALL while I was in there DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm crossing my fingers.. im at 260 km without any issues so far. 2016 silverado with 5.3. I raised my idle to 700rpm and turn off the dod in the ecu and only use shell 91-93. I will most likely swap the engine for a l8t when it will happen to me.
I have a 2000 silverado 5.3 with most likely worn out lifters. Ticks in the morning anywhere from 2 sec to 5 min, then stops once it warms up. Have always changed oil every 3-5k. 170k on motor. Any ideas on what i should do? Found remanufactured motor for 2500. Should i just keep driving until the tick doesn't go away? Is the camshaft likely damaged? Thanks
My 2000 has done that for years. May even be the pistons slapping until they warm up and expand or the lifters as you say. I don’t think it would be a huge problem unless it gets worse
Ok. Thanks. Definitely could be piston slap. There's actually times when it won't tick for a few weeks, then it just returns. It seems it starts to tick when it gets down just a half a quart. Plus it does burn a quart of oil every 1k miles but that's probably worn out valves seals or piston rings
It's broken exhaust manifold bolts. The rear ones like to break. Once it heats up the the gap closes. The old LS's don't have lifter issue's unless you don't change oil like at all lol. A lot of people think the old LS engines had lifter tick but that's what it is
Both the 5.3L and 6.2L for 2015 (2014+ Silverado)+ have active fuel management (AFM) aka DOD (displacement on demand). Some of the previous generation had it if it had flex fuel and not if it was straight gasoline I believe.
I always used Mobil 1 full synthetic dexos approved 0w20 and changed it earlier than the oil timer said. It’s unfortunately common on these engines to have a lifter failure
Im using ls7 lifters with my TSP DOD Delete kit, but went with oem length pushrods of 7.850". I havent even taken it all apart yet but wondering if i should exchange my pushrods for the 7.800"?
Good question. I’m nervous about mine, but so far so good. Maybe try calling Bryan Tooley Racing, and see if they tell you the same thing as they did me
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the 7.800 pushrods doing? Any updates on that? I'm talking with a mechanic and we are trying to see if this is a good idea. Thanks.
I removed them 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence, cleaned them up by hand without a razor blade, cleaned out the gunk from the direct injection and they seemed good enough to install. So far so good for a few weeks now. Others said they have had the same luck without having to have anything machined since it wasn’t a head gasket/warp
I got a 2017 gmc yukon Denali 3 months ago with 50,000 miles I got the best warranty you can get threw easy care it just started ticking really loud and then the engine light came on the same day will they replace the whole engine or just the cam and lifters?
I have a new 2023 Yukon Denali XL with 4k miles on it. I was planning on getting a new cam, headers, lifters, and deleting the deactivation garbage when my warranty is up. Question: should I do it sooner rather than later before my warranty goes out and just get it over with?????
I would not do it until it’s a problem. There are a lot of other variables with the heads/gaskets, timing chain tensioner, oil pressure, etc. Let it go the warranty length minimum
Was just told by the Chevrolet dealership that my 2015 yukon denali lifters are failing. Approximately 140k miles. Purchased with a 120k miles. Oil changes regularly. I just don't understand 😢😢
Unfortunately, it is all too common. It is a very big job calling for 34 hours and would be best to remove the engine from the truck. Lots of variables ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=nlA9-J_XHDjN-ipy
I have 08 Silverado with amazingly 350k. Yes sir lifters are not at all happy.8gs to fix it. I'm to old unfortunately 73 and counting. No place to take it other to other then someone I can trust.
Question. I have a good 5.3 2019 Silverado engine I currently have the engine off since I am changing the frame. Can I just swap the lifters to new non did lifters before they go bad ? And leave everything the same like cam and valley cover and just deactivate the did via tube ?
I would call Brian Tooley racing to ask about a parts build list with what you are wanting, but I understand you need a new camshaft that is the non-dod for their GM engines. If the engine is out, I would strongly recommend doing it all now with a new oil pump and things that are much more accessible like being able to remove the oil pump since you can remove the oil pan. When it comes to the heads be sure to spray them out where the head bolts go like you’ll see in my video. People have cracked blocks from the hydraulic pressure: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=m6E9cZOREW-o-zCy
You can turn it off electronically and it will save you the most time. Some say eventually the vlom still leaks and deactivates the cylinder, but with all the other parts involved I’d take my chances until it’s a problem. Just catch it as soon as possible so it doesn’t put metal shavings in the engine: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=hOOp1XWCI16qaLuR
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
My 2015 regular lifter failed tore cam up same way 92,000 miles i do my own maintenance never missed oil change every 5000 miles mobile one. Had replaced cam and all the lifters since metal ran through the engine. Cost $5000. Had it fixed traded it in on a 2021 tundra GM trash.
Brian Tooley racing was very helpful. My list is all the factory replacement parts other than the cam (which is a factory spec but non-dod cam). I’d watch the walk through and decide all the parts and double check them to your specific year, make, and model. You can pause the screen to see my parts list. Here is the walkthrough: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=LNqxWAtUHGpJqKXL
One last question sir !! Plz!! That camshaft says for 5.3… can you verify that can you told us to buy is for the 6.2 as well correct ? Is that a forged cam or cast ?
I would always verify for your specific year, make, model, engine. It’s the one BTR sold to me in the kit, and it’s in my 6.2 right now, so it works as far as I can say www.amazon.com/GM-Genuine-12672469-Overhead-Camshaft/dp/B09NMK9PCB?crid=15Y3FTXYZRHTL&keywords=12672469+g%3Bm+cam&qid=1695481995&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=12672469+g+m+cam,aps,227&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=fcd0bc5a09f12b8d2cb200515df3f280&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yeah, it's too bad things are not built as well these days. We have an 2018 Yukon XL Denali with just over 100,000 on it. No issues yet, but it didn't start right in negative degree weather once last year... Haven't really heard what happened with that lawsuit against GM for this lifter issue either...
Many should be, but I would go into a dealership and ask for the list with you vin. To my understanding, the camshaft is even for a 5.3 specifically for their version that doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. They might say some parts like that are not for your truck and won’t fit since it didn’t come with them. I would also reach out to Brian Tooley racing
@@helloeveryone906 yes. They do have the L8T which I believe is where the non-dod cam comes from, but it also has oiling issues and is still direct injection, so it will have a lot of the same gunk issues
It doesn't look like you've included the cost of re-programming the engine computer to disable DoD (which means programmatically deactivating all the triggers that would otherwise come up as DTC's - or Check Engine Lights - via the use of a special programming interface/tool). The tools alone (if going solo on the task) would be upwards of 600 bucks +. For whatever your "DoD Block Off" row is on your spreadsheet, I can't imagine we're talking about the same thing. Even the "credits" to make a lasting/correct programmatic change to the engine computer are well north of 200 bucks. But otherwise, my numbers (years ago) just about match up to yours. Good to know others have taken the deep-dive as well.
This is a metal quality issue, not a dod issue, even the 4.8 without dod eats lifters, doing the delete is just like keeping the dod, it fixes the problem for now, but with crappy metal, will it happen again? from what I understand even the new 7.3 fords are having the issue, they use the same lifters, of course mopar has also had the issue, this started about 2006, before that no lifter issues, so what changed? obviously the one making these parts should be held accountable, 3 different manufacturers and they all have the same problems,
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I understand that they stretch, but they're only good for a single torqing duty cycle? I mean, I trust what you say, but it seems excessive that the bolts would be unsuitable to be used again. A lot has changed since I was wrenching on vehicles. I would've gone to the junk yard for a head bolt back in the day. 😂
@@Atouk yeah, they are supposed to be used only once for the risk of them snapping or also being off length when stretched. Of course my friend has used the same bolts before and been okay, but I’ll always show the best practice in my videos and for my own preference ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=ekZqs047xsrwUgmy
Customers paying $7k for lifters wild…. If I have to do this for one of my personal rigs, probably just long block it, then do the cam repair on the engine that is pulled. DIY still be under $7k and end up with 2 engines depending on if the core is big dollars or not
Gen 5 engines have a cam operated high pressure fuel pump. There is a tool for alignment that tells you if the cam lobe is down (base circle) ruclips.net/video/4RakxjsWFFg/видео.htmlsi=7Liuwl-tqADNtEfJ
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Nice, yeah I went and looked for how to do that. Love the videos. I started looking because I have a 2019 5.3l silverado and want to keep it. I love the truck and want to retire next year. I have nearly 113,00'ish miles on it and have been using a pulsar LT unit. Runs great, sounds great, but I know what can happen. I wanted to be proactive and go for a new cam and lifters before something catastrophic happened, but it's a far larger job now than when I was playing with cars and trucks in the 80's. I'm still looking for oil pumps in the oil pan. This is a huge undertaking even for me in my own cement floored pole barn. Could be a fun retirement project. Pull the engine and transmission right out and do things the right way. ✌
Great video thanks! For this interested - if you don't have AFM failures and aren't seeking to replace parts or delete, you can simply disable AFM using a high quality scanner.
You can use the range disabler tool, but it may still have the failure of the lifter collapses. Sold here on my affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
@dannyjohnsonsgarage I need a friend with that when or if I do this, did he charge for doing that for you? If so, he's a great guy. I'm in the north region (Canada)
Great video. Just think you spent 2,700 total, and the job is done correctly. The stealership wants over 7K, and the person better hope the job is done right the first time.
I have heard from several pro sources this is due to the newer CEO at GM whom changed the suppliers from Mexican to Chinese. Saving money? No, not really.
GM perfected the small block many years ago,problem was the engines last for ever and they were losing $ so now they have a perfect design with Shit parts.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
Now I have heard or read that this happens to 2-3% of these vehicles. I’m not having issues at 123k but just doing research. Anyway let me know if you’ve heard the same about there not being that many this happens to in the grand scheme of things and being there are probably over 100,000 of these engines out there
I would say if far more than 2-3%. Even people I’ve met who I try to warn about it say they already had their lifters replaced. You’re probably getting very close as mine had 96k miles at the time
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I bought the truck used so maybe they’ve been changed. I need to see if I can tell if they’ve been changed. Anyway I mentioning on other threads that we can’t put these same type of lifters back in because your just going to have the same problem. I want the name and part number of lifters people are going with to delete the AFM and run 300k miles like they should?
If it was only in the computer it can still fail as the solenoids leak and collapse the lifter anyway DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1 ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
Some people have said they might swap the entire engine at that point to the L8T that doesn’t have dod, but you won’t get away from the direct injection issues or oil consumption. Otherwise you know from my parts list you can be about $2,500 to try swapping the cam and lifters yourself www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19433748/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0aS3BhA3EiwAKaD2ZeHI7w9W8ZJV26Euq-_yECqc9NvCMP7DDKg14qkFLWT-SWXYQZ2X7xoCbxIQAvD_BwE
That’s the first step to longevity, but I’ve had people say the vlom solenoids leak and activate it as well. I’d definitely start with it before deleting it physically
@dannyjohnsonsgarage unfortunately I can't do the process of new cam and lifters yet, I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that I paid for an extended warranty and it will void it if I do this.
![Lifter Failures - Class Action Lawsuit Silverado [GM] AFM / DFM: 2014 - 2021 GM V8s](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M1BgCsxFdPM/mqdefault.jpg)
Currently doing mine on my 2015 Escalade. Ordered my kit from Texas Speed. Everything is going smooth so far. Your videos were very informative. I also decided to do my oil pump, fuel pump etc.... Might as well while were in there. Thanks for the videos
I'm thinking of doing this to my 15 escalade too. Any info you care to share? thanks.
@@tomshaheen6778 about how much is the labor cost for the engine work. I just ordered the tsp dod kit & stage 1 cam
Might as well do the oil pressure sensor too. They're a bitch to get at when everything is put back together.
Thank you for sharing this video. Amazing presentation, in your spreadsheet, regarding the part numbers (where do you get them as dealerships are so reluctant to share this vital information because, as they told me, "we do not want you to go on the Internet and buy them"), and the actual cost of all of them. Very, but very useful in order for me to get a specific picture of all the parts involved and cost. Now, I am looking at the step-by-step video on how to replace them LOL.
I made a step by step video. ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=okWswPWs3w5p5o_0
Doing my 11 escalade right now not bad at all I recommend getting the fancy torque wrench with the angle on it. If your semi handy under the hood shouldn't be to bad.
Ps you don't have to necessarily take the motor out I just removed the front end
I've never worked on GM's but have done BMW engine swaps, and tuning for years. I was hesitant to learn another platform, but this video definitely got me over the line!
Super helpful! Thank you. Im planning this for my 2018 yukon. Its ok right now but its got 84k on it so… and like you said, when you’re that deep in the engine, you may as well replace some parts. 👍🏻 the kits from Texas Speed looks to be the way Im gonna go
Get rid of it while it still has some value
Got the lifter failure in multiple lifters in bank #1 with two push rods being bent. Although the GM parts are crap I changed my oil between 6k-7k miles so I'm a bit responsible due to not fully understanding how these GM engines consume oil. I'm on the path to either doing a DFM delete or fixing the issue and washing my hands. I have a 2019 chevy Silverado lt trail boss 5.3. Your videos are quite helpful so I appreciate your insight.
I feel your pain for sure. You probably already saw the video, but if not here is my walkthrough
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=g3Zj-__mlGt_bPnV
Outstanding video. Thank you for this cost difference.
70k miles and dealing with this right now on a Yukon Denali. There should be a class action lawsuit against GM for this.
I think there is a class action suit for this issue. The reason I bought a nice 2000 GMC 1500 without this dod/afm junk
I just replaced all lifters and cam shaft; pretty much everything that has to be replaced for a total of $3,500 of which $1,000 was labor and the rest was GM parts. I had previously gone to the local Chevy dealer who said "we will not do that repair because we can't guarantee positive results but we'll install a brand new 5.3 GM engine for 12k total" of course.. After getting referrals from friends and other locals, I connected with this awesome owner/mechanic one man shop in Nogales, Arizona, it has been two months and it runs like a "brand new" 09 Chevy Avalanche. BTW, I also ordered an AFM/DFM disabler made by Cytrobe from Amazon and I haven't looked back. Folks, shop for the cost of this repair, I know this may depend on what part of the country you're located but it's well worth it. Damn this AFM fiasco..breath new life to your GM 3.5, they are great engines. If you're in Arizona, I'll happily send you Carlos' way.
Hmm, I've read that it just goes back to an active fms..
I will check it out though
Thanks.
@@aprilgeneric8027 I can tell you on the older 5.3's with AFM if you run it with AFM disabled and then for some reason it gets unplugged or goes bad, you will likely end up with at minimum old grime getting knocked loose and plugging up that little filter under the oil pressure sensor. It's not a horrible job getting it out and cleaning or replacing it but it can take several drive cycles before it's done getting plugged up. The worst part is listening to the low oil pressure/stop engine chime when it gets plugged up even thought your engine still likely has good oil pressure...the sensor just doesn't read it that way because the filter is plugged below it. I would agree with you though, getting the AFM disabled permanently at the ECM or with a tuner is the best way to go.
I definitely could use his help. I’m in Arizona and my elevation 5.3 lifters went out… again…
@JasontheNativeTraveler they replaced one lifter at 30k miles, now at 120k they are replacing all lifters and cam for $7,700.
'20 Sierra Elevation 5.3L
It's better to just replace the engine, do not disable AFM. It will shorten the lifespan of the camshaft and kill fuel mileage.
This is so ridiculous to be having to deal with this on such low mileage and new overpriced vehicles. I got the same problem with my GMC Sierra and my brothers got the same problem with his Chevy Tahoe and both vehicles are under 50,000 miles.
@@ozzy541It is no longer optional* with these newer engines. For the love of God and all things mechanical.... keep that oil cleeeean
@ihavethedocuments2580 Even with clean oil, the mechanical nature of the lifter expanding and collapsing will eventually cause a mushrooming effect. Over time the lifter will stay collapsed and be unable to expand without manipulation or need replacement.
U still got warranty under 50k miles right
Sue them
@@cham5275Good luck with that... maybe why they plan to go all electric eventually to avoid admitting to the issues with DOD on the V8s.
Mine just had lifter go out and take out the cam on my 2019 Silverado on my way home to Minnesota from Virginia. Went out in West Virginia. Was looking at around $7500 total cost. Luckily I bought the truck gm certified used. Chevy dealer told me it is 100% covered with no cost to me. Just have to go back and pick it up next week.
I’d look into a range disabler for the next one to last longer. Here it is on my Amazon affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage That show for 5.3 Silverado up to 2018. Mines a 2019, will it still work?
@@scottj214 maybe they have a difference for 2019. When you put your vehicle in it should say if it doesn’t fit and give options for one that does
yep. Have that noise on my 2011 Caprice PPV. I'm gathering all the Parts now. A Band-aid is I'm running redline 10w-60 Full synthetic and a Purolator Boss Oil filter. Noise is totally gone and no misfires HOWEVER, I do believe the roller on the lifter is NOT running true on the cam. Doing Cam, lifters, oil pump, timing chain, water-pump, new hardened pushrods and all new rocker arms.
I'm doing both. Heads, cam and lifters tune
I just finished and posted the full walkthrough with the engine still in the truck if you’re interested ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=Y1ZBrhp4THprLbuy
I removed oil pan and cleaned it replacing those o rings plus i did timing chain tensioner and air pump my cost was 2400
Thank you for the info! I will be keeping an ear for that on my Silverado
It’s typically the sound or for the dod lifter you might get a misfire if the lifter collapses
By the time you hear it it is toolate
Is there a chance I could get a copy of that excel spreadsheet? Thanks!
I've not done the Gen V engines yet, but Gen IV's can be done, including a factory cam, in about 6 hours for around $350. Do a couple of them a week...
Looking for a shop in DFW to do this on my 2017 Yukon xl Denali
Just ran into this issue on my 2020 Sierra. I got quoted to do the delete and stage 1 cam from Texas Speed at $6,500
Sounds about right. It’s a big job. I have the full walkthrough if you’re interested interested (or just want to know what will be involved) ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=QSo7uUzyIR9pkQo2
With so much metal debri though out the engine Would you recommend getting a new engine? ...or just replacing oil pump timing belt other components work?..where does all that metal debri exactly go? Does it All get flushed out after changing lifters and camshaft or does some of it stay inside small crevices Creating potential future problems ?
That is a big concern. In the teardown you will see other lifters have marks in them where the debris had got stuck on the other rollers. Hopefully, they have caught most of the debris and are being replaced. There is a lifter filter as well you will see removed in video 2, so investigation is important to see just how bad it was. There is always a risk of contamination and flushing the oil galleys would be best with a oil pump removal (engine needs to come out or at least lifted to drop the oil pan to get that far in. On the other hand, removing the cam, pushing a new cam in with assembly grease can push any left over debris out (you’ll want to clean and inspect the camshaft bearings but they can’t be removed with the engine in as well unless you also remove the ac condenser and grill). DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
You have motivated me to do this myself. My only hesitation is I have 2015 suburban L83 engine, based on your list do all those parts fit in a l83 engine or is there certain part in your list that should be different for my type of engine. Cause I don’t know what to buy and it would suck to know in the middle of the process that those parts won’t fit. You got a new subscriber
To my knowledge all the parts are the same other than the head gaskets are different for the 5.3. I would watch my walkthrough videos and take notes on parts, then speak with Brian Tooley racing or your GM parts counter to verify the part numbers fit the 5.3L. If you have a question on a part I would be happy to see what I can see for it as well if you comment on the video (that’s the best way for me to see it).
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=d7NI4Y-g8LOHTzun
I would say if not knowing what to replace is your biggest known fear, don’t build an engine. You will be faced with 20 unknown new fears. Like, what ring gap do i need to file my rings to? How scored are my piston skirts? Putting new rings, means you need to crosshatch the bores. Are my bores warped? Did metal go through the bearings? You know the cam bearings are worn so now i need a special tool to press those in. How do you even measure your bearing clearance anyways? more special tools. Then, are the bearings on back order? Do i need a hpfp shim? how do i measure that? Then you put it all back together and it has a tick. What is that sound? 😂. I say if you know the answer to all these then you’re ready to do it yourself. There’s no shame to having a pro do it right the first time.
This is so sad. My 2000 tahoe with the 'dinosaur" small block 350 will never be sold. The 5.3 may make more power, but I could never deal with this. My respect to all of y'all going through this.
I also have a 2000 Silverado with 220k miles. I have since moved on from my Yukon to a Toyota sequoia
This is a nightmare 😩😩😩
Non DOD engines rarely fail.....my 07 6.2 escalade has 0 problems at 150k my wifes 17 however has a lifter tapping at 101k which is why im here and about to call texas speed for a kit
Fantastic work. Good overview
BTR AFM delete kit is about 1080. Did you order all parts separate? Or an entire kit. The kit is lower in cost than that.
I have a 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3. I dont have any problems and have an HP Tuner that I used to disable the DOD. I am looking at possibly doing the full physical delete this spring. If I do this job, I just can't put the old exhaust back on. I would have to do the rear main seal, too. I would want to replace everything while Im there. The truck has always had full synthetic oil changes ever 3k miles. The truck also has a trans cooler and oil cooler. So, hopefully, that keeps keeps the torque converter from getting cooked.
I would just turn the dod off and keep driving it until it has a problem
our dealership its closer to $7k just in labor. our labor rate is 220 an hour
Might as well get a junkyard motor at that point
Same problem here 2011 Yukon Denali!
Sorry to hear that
I have a 2010 Yukio Denali with lifter problems 😢
Funny part book time shows doing just the lifters alone at 12hours so I can only imagine what that shop charged per hour to get to 5300 on labor
I don’t know if you would know this, but I assume the delete process should be identical if you are doing this on a newer GM truck with DFM instead of AFM? Main difference would be 16 collapsible lifters instead of 8.
I believe the process is similar but I’ve heard some differences with the cam gear and it being harder to walk the chain off if trying to do it inside the vehicle without removing the engine
What head gaskets did u use sir?? cant find the part or listed in description. TY SO MUCH FOR TAKING THE TIME TO DO THIS!!!
It was from. Brian Tooley racing, but it looks just like the GM factory one (perhaps just repackaged?)
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragethank you sir !! I rewatched the video and seen you did put the part number is the spreadsheet on screen ! lol sorry !!! I had that paused for about an hour going back and forth making sure I got the right parts!! Jw why not replace the rocker arms and springs ? Do I need too ? Anything you would do differently if you could do it all over again ? That darn water pump is near $600 now .. should I just put the old one back on ? Or is a ton of work to redo the water pump when she fails ? Sorry I got lots of questions. Just about to do this to my dream Escalade and want it done right !! Thank you again !
@@fatbradlehs Any updates? What other parts did you decide on replacing?
Danny and idea how much just the left side lifters should be? Having done as we speak and want to make sure the Cadillac dealer isn’t over charging me… thx
If the cam has not been damaged or any damage to the cylinder head, valve etc I would expect about $2-3k tops. If they have to get into removing the cam and such it could be up to $7k+. My advice would be if they do a cam to have all the lifters replaced at that time. The dealership may only do stock replacement lifters per their policy. It is a large job that should be an engine out procedure. The techs themselves will get it done quicker with the engine still in as I did, but watch this to see why it’s so expensive: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=eBOlgSX5wtssha2w
Ok thx. They did check the cam and it was ok. They originally said $4k for the left side lifters. Since I am a long time GM buyer I asked GM for $ assistance and they are… it’s costing me $1700 so guess they are helping me out but not as much as I originally thought
Awesome Dan !!
So, the only other cost would be a tune to shut off the AFM in the software, correct ?
Yes. If I remember something else I’ll put it in the description as well.
Changing valve springs are not required on the L86? Can you tell us the the length difference between stock and replacement push rods? Thank you for sharing this info.
Stock push rods are 7.85” and the ones BTR recommended were Ls7 length 7.80” Valve springs were not recommended for being a stock cam spec replacement.
I have an L86 to delete after the holidays. Thanks again.
@@bentabor9410 here is the step by step if you want it DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
Thank you for posting this video… and this link as well. I’ll be definitely referencing is and doing it as I do NOT have thousands to spend at a shop. Gotta learn sometime right? 😅
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the non-stock pushrods doing? I'm talking with a mechanic shop about AFM Delete kit on a 2020 5.3L Tahoe and my mechanic isn't aware of the non-stock different sized pushrods. I'm trying to inform him that people online are recommending to go with the non-stock ones, but I don't know the exact reason why and if it is working better. I'd like to hear if you still recommend using the non-stock pushrods. Thank you.
I know you said in your video that you did OE stock cam and you didn't delete the VVT was the main reason for not deleting the VVT because the replacement of the timing chain cover which would mean you would have to drop the oil pan or was there other reasons for not going stage 1 vs OE
I kept the VVT because it offers the best performance for low end torque on a stock cam. I believe when you go to larger stage cams it may require the VVT delete to keep valve to piston clearance. I didn’t go with a different cam just to keep the rest simple with valve springs and anything else
Very tedious job, you have to be very fluent and have patience on doing this and correct with accuracy. I would of done the same also... since im in here i will change this which isnt a bad idea, especially when your in this deep, i wanted to buy a 2015 Yukon XL 6.2L with 89,000km on it, which is still low, but i know i want this AFM delete kit done but aince your video shows what to do and how to do it "PROPERLY" i think i may consider the Yukon and i have an edge on the sales to let him know this job will be $9000 so it will give me wiggle room as they go by dealership cost. Oh they want $45000 for the Yukon XL at the dealership
Wish me luck cause if i get it for the right price ill be doing this also makes a great resale value too cause not only me but someone like me or yourself is doing research on the engines and probably heard the problems about this AFM/DOD issue. But having this done and recorded and documentation on it being done will may get them to buy it etc... but yeah if i get this SUV ill most likely do this to it. Last thing i want is a knocking engine or worst...
Yeah, I would also look through my playlist for the other things you will likely need. Suspension (costly to replace the Magneride), transmission harness, gps antenna, tail lights..it’s a lot of smaller things but it should all be considered
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
ruclips.net/p/PLIjr-uSYDZi7J7EQ1ErTn1Yzi6ET_3Ssr
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok
DAMN. THAT SUCKS!! I got a 08 Silverado 5.3, 280k miles on it and the oil pressure just started to go down. I’m doing the DOD delete and a Texas Speed Cam with the new cam bearings and of course the tune 😁😁😁😁😁😁
I am about to xplore my 5.3 suv year 2020, it has been making this tic tic noise ,I heard it on the left side.
Quick question I didn’t have compression on cylinder 6 they took about a week to diagnose my truck it’s the 5.3 non dfm or afm they explain to me that they ordered cam and lifter with your experience u believe that’s what’s causing my low compression mind you this I had it on a certified well known shop before hand and they recommended me a engine replacement so I don’t know what to believe
I would ask them what exactly they say is the reason. To me it sounds like a bent pushrod that could cause low compression by the valve not closing. However, other things may also cause no compression, including piston problems. It very well may be more affordable (or easy and guaranteed for them) to put a new engine in
@ thanks
Thank you for a great video !
2012 Suburban of mine just did the same sound as you shown in this video after a ''jiffylobotomy" oil change. A mechanic said I need a new engine, ~$12,000 on a blue book $10,000 vehicle. I drove it home with less sound . 6 days later I started it up, no sound !!! How could that be ???
I'm in Redondo Beach, State of Californication , getting it right up there by mechanics. Any recommendations ? Do you know anyone trustworthy around Redondo Beach CA ???
When bearings fail they can also quiet down as they heat or cool. Mine stayed out as a squeak that I figured may have been a belt or pulley but over time it will be constant
@@dannyjohnsonsgarageThank You !
did you have any issues with the cam gear popping off?? mine just did after dod delete with you exact parts.... my vales are screwed... timing was perfect... the sprocket slipped and caused timing to jump !!!
I haven’t had a problem. I wonder if the cam nub in yours was fully seated into the hole on the back of the cam gear. How far after did it fail?
Unfortunately nearly immediately… the nub appears much smaller than the original did you notice this ? Maybe I got a defective part? I see on Amazon one reviewer had this exact issue!!
Couple questions: How many miles you had?? And what gave up, a Lifter?? Why do you think it happened?? Is it common problem?? Thanks=)
I had 94,000 miles. It was a regular lifter that failed. I was also worried about the common dod lifter failure so I deleted it at the time
Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv
ruclips.net/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/видео.html
It seems it would have been easier to drop a Jasper reman in than tear down. I just pray the metal shavings didn’t do damage to the other areas. Hope it worked out. Big job.
I would have even considered a new GM long block but it doesn’t solve the problem of the bad dod lifters that will fail later.
Only thing that makes me nervous about this is the programming for the new cam......Id like to stay diy....do you know if texas speed sells a matched programmer for the cam or is the programming strictly for disabling the AFM function......this is the one thing alot of videos arent clear about. I live in a county that requires emission testing and that check engine light cant be on for any reason
I’d reach out to Texas speed or Brian Tooley racing. I’ve seen some places you send your computer off to and they perform what’s needed
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage .....I found out ......its just to turn the afm off.....just doing a stock profile replacement for non dod
Was this a direct injection? What was the fuel pump cam lobe look like? Should probably change the fuel pump lifter as well?
Yes, direct injection and the fuel pump lifter looked good but I replaced it ALL while I was in there DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm crossing my fingers.. im at 260 km without any issues so far. 2016 silverado with 5.3. I raised my idle to 700rpm and turn off the dod in the ecu and only use shell 91-93. I will most likely swap the engine for a l8t when it will happen to me.
@@farncoisbisson7737 I think thats the best option
I have a 2000 silverado 5.3 with most likely worn out lifters. Ticks in the morning anywhere from 2 sec to 5 min, then stops once it warms up. Have always changed oil every 3-5k. 170k on motor. Any ideas on what i should do? Found remanufactured motor for 2500. Should i just keep driving until the tick doesn't go away? Is the camshaft likely damaged? Thanks
My 2000 has done that for years. May even be the pistons slapping until they warm up and expand or the lifters as you say. I don’t think it would be a huge problem unless it gets worse
Ok. Thanks. Definitely could be piston slap. There's actually times when it won't tick for a few weeks, then it just returns. It seems it starts to tick when it gets down just a half a quart. Plus it does burn a quart of oil every 1k miles but that's probably worn out valves seals or piston rings
It's broken exhaust manifold bolts. The rear ones like to break. Once it heats up the the gap closes. The old LS's don't have lifter issue's unless you don't change oil like at all lol. A lot of people think the old LS engines had lifter tick but that's what it is
I thought this problem only affected the 5.3L engine not the 6.2 can anyone explain this to me ?
Both the 5.3L and 6.2L for 2015 (2014+ Silverado)+ have active fuel management (AFM) aka DOD (displacement on demand). Some of the previous generation had it if it had flex fuel and not if it was straight gasoline I believe.
What oil did you use I know you have to use the oil weight 0W-20 I’m asking because if you use different weight oil you will damage lifters and cam
I always used Mobil 1 full synthetic dexos approved 0w20 and changed it earlier than the oil timer said. It’s unfortunately common on these engines to have a lifter failure
I just had a lifter fail on my 2021 Chevy Tahoe 5.3. Will these parts work on that motor? Help!!!
There are some differences for the 2021 so I would call Brian Tooley Racing and consult with them
Im using ls7 lifters with my TSP DOD Delete kit, but went with oem length pushrods of 7.850". I havent even taken it all apart yet but wondering if i should exchange my pushrods for the 7.800"?
Good question. I’m nervous about mine, but so far so good. Maybe try calling Bryan Tooley Racing, and see if they tell you the same thing as they did me
Do you still recommend using the 7.800 pushrods? Thank you@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
@@dannyjohnsonsgaragebe good to see how these ones you installed in your Yukon XL
Any updates on the pushrods? What length did you go with and how is it working? Thanks
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage How are the 7.800 pushrods doing? Any updates on that? I'm talking with a mechanic and we are trying to see if this is a good idea. Thanks.
Great video. Did u check cylinder heads while they were off?
I removed them 90 degree turns at a time in reverse torque sequence, cleaned them up by hand without a razor blade, cleaned out the gunk from the direct injection and they seemed good enough to install. So far so good for a few weeks now. Others said they have had the same luck without having to have anything machined since it wasn’t a head gasket/warp
I got a 2017 gmc yukon Denali 3 months ago with 50,000 miles I got the best warranty you can get threw easy care it just started ticking really loud and then the engine light came on the same day will they replace the whole engine or just the cam and lifters?
They will do what’s cheapest I’m sure. Or if they decide it’s ruined the engine they may replace it
I have a new 2023 Yukon Denali XL with 4k miles on it. I was planning on getting a new cam, headers, lifters, and deleting the deactivation garbage when my warranty is up. Question: should I do it sooner rather than later before my warranty goes out and just get it over with?????
I would not do it until it’s a problem. There are a lot of other variables with the heads/gaskets, timing chain tensioner, oil pressure, etc. Let it go the warranty length minimum
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thanks for the reply, and yes, I will plan on at least waiting for the warranty to go out. Thanks!
Sooner you don't want metal flowing through your engine
@@frenchonion4595 thanks for the advice. I am leaning towards that….the extra horsepower doesn’t hurt either:)
Looked the same as my 4.6 mustang roller follower that failed it eat up my cam
Was just told by the Chevrolet dealership that my 2015 yukon denali lifters are failing. Approximately 140k miles. Purchased with a 120k miles. Oil changes regularly. I just don't understand 😢😢
Unfortunately, it is all too common. It is a very big job calling for 34 hours and would be best to remove the engine from the truck. Lots of variables ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=nlA9-J_XHDjN-ipy
Great information! Did it throw any codes? I have the same model and year. I fear I may be in the same situation soon
No codes, just the sound which I was hoping was a pulley. Unfortunately it wasn’t
I have 08 Silverado with amazingly 350k. Yes sir lifters are not at all happy.8gs to fix it. I'm to old unfortunately 73 and counting. No place to take it other to other then someone I can trust.
Question. I have a good 5.3 2019 Silverado engine I currently have the engine off since I am changing the frame. Can I just swap the lifters to new non did lifters before they go bad ? And leave everything the same like cam and valley cover and just deactivate the did via tube ?
I would call Brian Tooley racing to ask about a parts build list with what you are wanting, but I understand you need a new camshaft that is the non-dod for their GM engines. If the engine is out, I would strongly recommend doing it all now with a new oil pump and things that are much more accessible like being able to remove the oil pump since you can remove the oil pan. When it comes to the heads be sure to spray them out where the head bolts go like you’ll see in my video. People have cracked blocks from the hydraulic pressure: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=m6E9cZOREW-o-zCy
What can I do if mine isn’t giving me any symptoms at the moment? Is there a legit way to disable DOD before I have issues?
You can turn it off electronically and it will save you the most time. Some say eventually the vlom still leaks and deactivates the cylinder, but with all the other parts involved I’d take my chances until it’s a problem. Just catch it as soon as possible so it doesn’t put metal shavings in the engine: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=hOOp1XWCI16qaLuR
Did you need to do a tune before or after installation? I have the 6.2l L87 with the DFM
Yes, it needs a tune
Does anyone know of a good shop in the Orlando, FL area or anywhere in Florida that can handle this job? Please!!! Same issue Im having with a 21 Suburban.
What about a tune?
My 2015 regular lifter failed tore cam up same way 92,000 miles i do my own maintenance never missed oil change every 5000 miles mobile one. Had replaced cam and all the lifters since metal ran through the engine. Cost $5000. Had it fixed traded it in on a 2021 tundra GM trash.
I have a 2021 tundra as well for the same reason: ruclips.net/p/PLIjr-uSYDZi57XD9z82F06EWPIA6KBhzI&si=bxizfB9DEey7JqRM
Can you share the excel spreadsheet?
Is there a parts list posted somewhere? Best place to buy it?
Brian Tooley racing was very helpful. My list is all the factory replacement parts other than the cam (which is a factory spec but non-dod cam). I’d watch the walk through and decide all the parts and double check them to your specific year, make, and model. You can pause the screen to see my parts list. Here is the walkthrough: ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=LNqxWAtUHGpJqKXL
As GM guy this is sad. I have always had mustangs as well(why I followed your channel) but I love GM trucks. It’s just sad really.
One last question sir !! Plz!! That camshaft says for 5.3… can you verify that can you told us to buy is for the 6.2 as well correct ? Is that a forged cam or cast ?
I would always verify for your specific year, make, model, engine. It’s the one BTR sold to me in the kit, and it’s in my 6.2 right now, so it works as far as I can say
www.amazon.com/GM-Genuine-12672469-Overhead-Camshaft/dp/B09NMK9PCB?crid=15Y3FTXYZRHTL&keywords=12672469+g%3Bm+cam&qid=1695481995&sbo=RZvfv//HxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=12672469+g+m+cam,aps,227&sr=8-1&linkCode=sl1&tag=2004047-20&linkId=fcd0bc5a09f12b8d2cb200515df3f280&language=en_US&ref_=as_li_ss_tl
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Thank you so much! its ordered !! I appreciate you doing all the leg work and getting us these part numbers!!
How many miles were on it when the issue started?
95,000. Way too few when my 2000 Silverado is still going fine with 230,000
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yeah, it's too bad things are not built as well these days. We have an 2018 Yukon XL Denali with just over 100,000 on it. No issues yet, but it didn't start right in negative degree weather once last year... Haven't really heard what happened with that lawsuit against GM for this lifter issue either...
Mines went out twice before 37k miles and is at the shop now for my 2019 Silverado needing cam and lifters again. Video on my channel
Are these part numbers the same for a 2016 Silverado with the 5.3?
Many should be, but I would go into a dealership and ask for the list with you vin. To my understanding, the camshaft is even for a 5.3 specifically for their version that doesn’t have cylinder deactivation. They might say some parts like that are not for your truck and won’t fit since it didn’t come with them. I would also reach out to Brian Tooley racing
Is that clicking/ ticking noise normal with those engines?
No. That's when you know that the rollers are eating the cam
Donde tienes tu taller para q me aregles una 2019 silverado
Lamentablemente, no tengo un taller. Solo arreglo mis autos y hago vídeos para ayudar
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=bHmzBVyF2bdCDdKB
Awesome idea for list! Can you share that!
I’ve put it in the video description by item for the most part
At what miles are you doing this ?
It failed at 96k miles
@dannyjohnsonsgarage does the check engine light related to that ?
What mileage was the truck
Only 96,000
if GM did not have AFM. it would be great motor. no body complaints of 90s chevy 350.
@@helloeveryone906 yes. They do have the L8T which I believe is where the non-dod cam comes from, but it also has oiling issues and is still direct injection, so it will have a lot of the same gunk issues
It doesn't look like you've included the cost of re-programming the engine computer to disable DoD (which means programmatically deactivating all the triggers that would otherwise come up as DTC's - or Check Engine Lights - via the use of a special programming interface/tool). The tools alone (if going solo on the task) would be upwards of 600 bucks +. For whatever your "DoD Block Off" row is on your spreadsheet, I can't imagine we're talking about the same thing. Even the "credits" to make a lasting/correct programmatic change to the engine computer are well north of 200 bucks. But otherwise, my numbers (years ago) just about match up to yours. Good to know others have taken the deep-dive as well.
This is a metal quality issue, not a dod issue, even the 4.8 without dod eats lifters, doing the delete is just like keeping the dod, it fixes the problem for now, but with crappy metal, will it happen again? from what I understand even the new 7.3 fords are having the issue, they use the same lifters, of course mopar has also had the issue, this started about 2006, before that no lifter issues, so what changed? obviously the one making these parts should be held accountable, 3 different manufacturers and they all have the same problems,
@@timtrusty5107 the hemi engines as well have the same problem. It may also be from poor oiling
Why do head bolts need to be replaced?
Head bolts stretch as they are torqued (it’s called torque to yield aka TTY).
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I understand that they stretch, but they're only good for a single torqing duty cycle? I mean, I trust what you say, but it seems excessive that the bolts would be unsuitable to be used again. A lot has changed since I was wrenching on vehicles. I would've gone to the junk yard for a head bolt back in the day. 😂
@@Atouk yeah, they are supposed to be used only once for the risk of them snapping or also being off length when stretched. Of course my friend has used the same bolts before and been okay, but I’ll always show the best practice in my videos and for my own preference ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=ekZqs047xsrwUgmy
This helps thank you!
Customers paying $7k for lifters wild….
If I have to do this for one of my personal rigs, probably just long block it, then do the cam repair on the engine that is pulled.
DIY still be under $7k and end up with 2 engines depending on if the core is big dollars or not
You can just change the cam and lifters. The metal from the cam and lifters has been flushed through the engine and has eaten the bearings.
225,000 and i haven't had to worry about this i did however need a transmission
Lucky!
I also haveto say is that I did pretty good 👍🏻
Fuel pump alignment tool?
Gen 5 engines have a cam operated high pressure fuel pump. There is a tool for alignment that tells you if the cam lobe is down (base circle)
ruclips.net/video/4RakxjsWFFg/видео.htmlsi=7Liuwl-tqADNtEfJ
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Nice, yeah I went and looked for how to do that. Love the videos. I started looking because I have a 2019 5.3l silverado and want to keep it. I love the truck and want to retire next year. I have nearly 113,00'ish miles on it and have been using a pulsar LT unit. Runs great, sounds great, but I know what can happen. I wanted to be proactive and go for a new cam and lifters before something catastrophic happened, but it's a far larger job now than when I was playing with cars and trucks in the 80's. I'm still looking for oil pumps in the oil pan. This is a huge undertaking even for me in my own cement floored pole barn. Could be a fun retirement project. Pull the engine and transmission right out and do things the right way. ✌
Great video thanks!
For this interested - if you don't have AFM failures and aren't seeking to replace parts or delete, you can simply disable AFM using a high quality scanner.
You can use the range disabler tool, but it may still have the failure of the lifter collapses. Sold here on my affiliate link www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTJNM7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_gl_i_FRECHW9NBNZT0K6SMG35?linkCode=ml2&tag=2004047-20
What did you use for tuning?
My friend does tunes and was able to turn off the 4 cylinder mode
@dannyjohnsonsgarage
I need a friend with that when or if I do this, did he charge for doing that for you? If so, he's a great guy. I'm in the north region (Canada)
Great video. Just think you spent 2,700 total, and the job is done correctly. The stealership wants over 7K, and the person better hope the job is done right the first time.
I have 2011 Tahoe with 5.3.
What GM cam will work for my application?
Yours is for 2014 and up..
Thanks
I would contact Brian Tooley Racing. They are very helpful in discussing which parts you need for what you want to accomplish.
It depends on whether you are keeping the DoD or not.
GREAT Work...
I have heard from several pro sources this is due to the newer CEO at GM whom changed the suppliers from Mexican to Chinese. Saving money? No, not really.
GM perfected the small block many years ago,problem was the engines last for ever and they were losing $ so now they have a perfect design with Shit parts.$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
I just paid $7500 to have a rebuilt motor in my 2010 Silverado. i would have done it my self but I would have to do it outside!
It’s a lot of work on the newer engines ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=2nMB0bbv_TgotpjV
This was me today in this Atlanta heat I got to the valve cover then it rained and I called it
Now I have heard or read that this happens to 2-3% of these vehicles. I’m not having issues at 123k but just doing research. Anyway let me know if you’ve heard the same about there not being that many this happens to in the grand scheme of things and being there are probably over 100,000 of these engines out there
I would say if far more than 2-3%. Even people I’ve met who I try to warn about it say they already had their lifters replaced. You’re probably getting very close as mine had 96k miles at the time
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I bought the truck used so maybe they’ve been changed. I need to see if I can tell if they’ve been changed. Anyway I mentioning on other threads that we can’t put these same type of lifters back in because your just going to have the same problem. I want the name and part number of lifters people are going with to delete the AFM and run 300k miles like they should?
I just got quoted 10k for the same job on a 5.3 (22 Silverado with 100k miles)
Sorry for the news. I wasn’t happy as well. I have the step by step but it’s a big job and best to remove the engine.
I did that same job for people with GMs all the time for 2500 bucks flat fee with all the gaskets in 3 days.
Were you located please contact me @javidbenson6282
I just had the same problem on my 2017 z71 ltz /:
Unfortunately, it’s very common. It’s quite a large project to fix it
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.htmlsi=7czcCgV6mYiOtlIo
I deleated my AFM
If it was only in the computer it can still fail as the solenoids leak and collapse the lifter anyway
DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
I'm in the market for a pickup and this is why I'm not buying GM even thou I have been a GM owner for well over 45 years.
I now own 2 Toyotas. Both the last V8s of the Sequoia and Tundra.
You could’ve got a motor for that dealer price
And it would be a motor with the same problems. That’s what held me back
I just got quoted $12,000 to replace cam and lifters on a 2018 gmc sierra 6.2L with 62,000 miles.......
Some people have said they might swap the entire engine at that point to the L8T that doesn’t have dod, but you won’t get away from the direct injection issues or oil consumption. Otherwise you know from my parts list you can be about $2,500 to try swapping the cam and lifters yourself www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/19433748/10002/-1?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw0aS3BhA3EiwAKaD2ZeHI7w9W8ZJV26Euq-_yECqc9NvCMP7DDKg14qkFLWT-SWXYQZ2X7xoCbxIQAvD_BwE
DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
ruclips.net/video/cWayyZGNYRI/видео.html
Disable AFM.
That’s the first step to longevity, but I’ve had people say the vlom solenoids leak and activate it as well. I’d definitely start with it before deleting it physically
@dannyjohnsonsgarage unfortunately I can't do the process of new cam and lifters yet, I have a 2015 Yukon Denali that I paid for an extended warranty and it will void it if I do this.
💙💙💙💙💙
and GM didnt have a recall ??? so sad
Once you’re out of warranty you’re on your own- though I have heard of a class action where you may be able to show repair bills and be compensated