DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade 6.2L & 5.3L Replace cam & lifters Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 4 окт 2024
- Video 2 DOD AFM Delete Yukon, Tahoe, Silverado, Sierra, Escalade L86 & L83 Part 2 re-assembly cam lifters
• DOD AFM Delete Yukon, ...
Range disabler for before dod is done * may require a formal tune instead of this once dod is completed www.amazon.com...
*Still updating and uploading other videos, stay tuned
Camshaft used (Stock replacement for non-DOD) amzn.to/3UmZy1N
Crankshaft bolt (one time use OEM 2014-2022 Engine Crankshaft Pulley 11547372) amzn.to/48ohuNZ
LS7 Lifters and trays amzn.to/3t56LrD
Camshaft retainer plate amzn.to/3rgF6Ud
Crankshaft holding tool amzn.to/48uqvVV
Crank Balancer install tool amzn.to/4642Dqf
Crankshaft balancer puller tool 4" 24-3004 KT amzn.to/49JmQEc
1/2" drive torque wrench 250 lb ft rating amzn.to/3PSZbcF
Inch pound torque wrench amzn.to/3ES83ZE
Mobil 1 Synthetic LV ATF HP (1 quart unless you lose a lot more ) amzn.to/3LBssG5
GM Genuine Parts 12623757 Engine Valve Lifter Oil Filter amzn.to/3PPQgsi
Paint Pens amzn.to/3t5M4fc
Fuel Pump alignment tool amzn.to/3ryijmF
Exhaust manifold bolts amzn.to/463ARdx
Vacuum Pump(Optional) amzn.to/3rq1xpS
Engine Assembly Lube amzn.to/461sjEc
Thread Sealant amzn.to/3Rydoge
Gasket Remover (pack of 6 recommended) amzn.to/3EQpEkx
Intake Manifold Gaskets 12626354 sold individually, need 8 (Verify compatibility) amzn.to/458RByO
Plastic Scraper amzn.to/3LDVbtR
Q tips 6" amzn.to/46oYSLQ
Oil pressure sensor (Optional) 12727099
Line wrench 17mm amzn.to/3RyKH2J
13mm allen socket amzn.to/3tbWcCW
17mm crows foot amzn.to/48pmu50
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2015-2018 12734067
VVT Cam bolt solenoid 2019+ 12697047. amzn.to/3RHXf8e
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL109 amzn.to/45eHQ2d
Fuel line (Standard brand) GDL704
High Pressure Fuel Pump GDP105 (Optional) (standard brand)
Fuel pump lifter (Standard brand) GDF103. amzn.to/45jVEIx
Water pump gaskets 12657430 (251-2066) amzn.to/3ZG51kX
Spark plugs iridium 12622441. amzn.to/46hSu9F
Exhaust manifold gaskets 12657093 amzn.to/3LLbh4V
GM 12623104 Engine Valley Pan Gasket amzn.to/3LIPevO
ACDelco W0133-3149153-ACD - Genuine GM Parts Engine Coolant Water Pump (Optional) amzn.to/48zuVL6
Fuel line disconnect tools amzn.to/48zmQGe
Ingersol Rand impact www.amazon.com...
Coolant 3-4 needed amzn.to/46FIuXU
Motor Oil. 8 quarts needed amzn.to/46ETyEH
Oil filter (verify compatibility) amzn.to/3Fs8CK8
Main drive belt 12626076 amzn.to/3oNcjVM
A/C belt 12658178 amzn.to/3IWSLFr
Vacuum pump belt 12643517 amzn.to/3P0x4Ii
Yukon / Tahoe / Suburban / Escalade Owner’s manual Bells & whistles
• Yukon / Tahoe / Suburb...
Huge shoutout to other great channels I used as a reference for this project. See below for their channels
• DOD/AFM
Perform at your own risk. I assume no liability for injury, damage, death, etc. Refer to your owners manual. Demonstration purposes only
I am an amazon affiliate, so purchasing through the links I provide may support the channel with a small referral commission.
this is a very good video. as a technician myself i would like to note that nobody is this careful while taking your car apart. everyone is out there using nothing but impact guns ripping your car apart because they dont pay us to be careful they only pay us based on how much stuff we get done.
if he went to the dealership for this, we would have never gotten this video. praise this man, its giving me confidence to do it myself.
I want to thank you for taking the time to show this step by step. I just finished doing mine tonight and could not have done it without your videos. You made it easy and explained everything perfectly. Thank you so much!
How long did it take you to do everything? I have a 2015 sierra with a plug in delete and have been skeptical about doing the full delete because I don’t want to have my truck sitting in the garage for days partly disassembled.
It took me right at 40hrs. I didn’t use a power ratchet in the disassembly(bought one to reassemble) and I think it took me 3hrs to get the timing chain off(probably was a little too cautious). Shop estimate time was 30hrs so I think I was pretty much on par with that. I’m no expert by any means but to do it right I think it’s a 30hr job all day.
Hows your truck holding up with the afm delete? Hopefully no issues so far?
@leytonhankins1665 why would it sit for days in the garage partly disassembled?
Holding up fine so far. Runs better than it has in a long time.
I picked up a 2016 quad cab Silverado 5.3 with 98,000 for $7500 in excellent condition the Engine was supposedly blown , all it was, was 2 bad lifters. I did the AFM delete bought new lifters and a Brian Tooley stage 1 cam. Took me about 6 hours. I used this video as a guide. Im not a Truck or Chevy Guy this was a Suprise for my wife. I did 2 oil changes in a 50 mile period also to be safe. Thanks again !!!!
Hey did you take it to a shop after to get a tune for it?
6 hours!?!?! How the heck did you pull that off. I’ve been at this all day. I’m fighting all the stuck connectors and the dang fuel line won’t come off.
Blown engine is a word people use often. A blown engine is a total destroyed engine.
Wow we would never get to see this video if GM could actually build a motor that doesn't destroy it self! Great video and narration.
I don't have to do this yet. But this is one of the best take-apart videos on RUclips.
Very nice video. The amazing thing is that even with all this disastrous BS these trucks still don't get any better mileage than my 1990 does.
From my point of view, you have deserved a nice spot in heaven for sharing such an educational, high value material. I am not a mechanic but I will watch and enjoy the following videos instead of a blockbuster movie...
Bro thanks I just made $1500 from
Part 1&2 thanks a lot
This is the best video I have seen for this. Great commentary, sound, and camera angles.
Just watched your video step by step man never taken a motor apart before and I gotta say your a life saver , from the little things that aren’t reusable to just how to get everything off right , you are awesome , now just waiting for my lifter and cam kit to get here and watch part 2 to get it back in
This video is incredibly underrated & under viewed… This was my first video I’ve watched on this channel, and I was incredibly impressed. Thanks for the content, great job.
Thanks! I’m glad you enjoyed it!
I just wanna give a GIANT thank you!! I followed your videos and "The Sundae Drive" videos and got this job done all by myself! It took a lot longer than it should have but so thankful for your help!!
Another reason to keep my 04 silverado with a 5.3 200k miles and runs great Im replacing valve cover gaskets now
Smart Man! Thinking about buying a 02
The best AFM/DOD delete I’ve seen
And very expensive lol
@@madwestboy it's the only correct way to do it.
Anyone performing the same engine repair of camshaft and lifters - also VERY GOOD IDEA to use your cellphone and take pictures BEFORE disassembly .
Where’s the class action lawsuit?? GM needs to be FORCED to fix this issue!!!!
they won a court case....... so they dont have to do shit
@@johndonovan7018they didn’t win anything. They convinced plaintiffs to go into arbitration. So they are settling with some individuals outside of court, which kills the class action suit.
GM had a few of those dismissed on the argument design flaws are not manufacturing flaws. i think that was in alabama. as i said multiple of these so outcomes will vary but they are yet to actually lose@@hackershack23
Yup, just cost me 6k yesterday.
6k is a lot, smells like dealer. 4-5k gets you nice parts upgrade with AFM delete. stock job is 3-4k. thats with labor and all. 1500-2000 in parts if you do labor yourself, possibly cheaper. i havent looked at prices in 10 months or so@@lespauljunky74
I love the amount of detail you put into this video
Excellent narration and explains the job in detail. I have completed my very first 5.7 hemi cam and lifters replacement job. I did lots of research and i did make a mistake of swapping the heads. I didn't know the heads were dedicated. Anyway. Excellent...
Mil gracias a todos que hicieron posible este video todo esta a tiempo bello y instructivo mil gracias dios los bendiga sienpre sigue adelante sigan enseñando así 🙏
Estoy feliz que lo encontraste. Bien suerte amigo
Thank you for your honesty and commitment to detail and excellence. Great video.
Happened to us, truck sitting in back yard for 2yrs! Getting parts now!
I feel your pain.
i really really appreciate the effort you put into making this video. I'm learning ayelooot rn
My Silverado got the full delete like in this video and my truck runs great doesn't burn no oil at all also. Once tou do the full delete you have a great engine
This is so complete, RUclips should be required to destroy all other versions.
There are a lot of unnecessary steps doesn't hurt to do those steps just not really necessary
It's such a shame what GM has done to their once badass V8s. The damage to this engine is insane. GM knows this is an issue and how do they fix it? They DONT. they keep making the same old junk V8s. So sad.
I agree. I so wanted a new GM truck. If only you could order one with no DOD - dead on demand engine.
Their design is genius, this is what happens when you run cheap gas and your detonation is delayed because of low octane fuel when switching from v4/v8.. always use premium from the jump. Premium detergent if available, preferably.
Thank the hippies, not GM
That’s what happens when you hire a liberal woman to be CEO.
Same here , I wanted a new semi many years ago , finally got into the position to do that and they ruined the diesel with epa regs. , so I decided to downgrade to a new pick up in 07 , I wore that one out almost , now I need a new one , but they dont build them worth buying nowadays . I'm bummed ..guess I'll look at horses to drive ..😢😂
Great videos! You’re always very explicative: from your Terminator Cobra vids to this one on a Yukon.
Thank for your video. I was getting ready to buy two LS. For one suburban and 62 Impala. I will definitely delete the AFM lifter issue. Thanks
My suburban has been sitting in the garage for 4 months now. Dealer said bad lifter and cam. 254k miles. Quoted me $10k for a lifter and cam replacement or $16k for a new motor. Don't have that kind of cash available at the moment. I'm a reasonably handy guy, I've done a lot of alternators, steering pumps, water pumps, starters, brakes, hubs etc, just nothing this big. Your video makes this repair look.. easy isn't the word.. Straight forward, that's it. My question is, can there be other things wrong in there that I may run into that are related to the issue? Also, I'm up in the SLC area.. Do you know anyone up here that could to the reprogramming?
It’s a tough one. You may be best off dropping in a new engine for the cost. It depends on how bad it was for the lifter, if it broke apart and put metal throughout the engine. With the milage the cam bearing may also be worn. You’ll see all the new parts I installed that should help in the end like the vacuum pump (which is said to also put metal in the engine if it fails). There is also the risk of parts breaking if you have rust in your area. I would say at this point you could tear it down as the video shows and see what you find, then decide if it’s worth getting a new short block and reuse your heads. Then you’ll need to really look as the heads as they get so gunked up. There is a cost of taking them to a machine shop with the milage. I struggled with this decision because I would put another engine in which could have bad lifters again.
Dep driveway degreaser and concrete cleaner works very well for cleaning gasket and carbon from heads amazingly. Very slightly corrosive on the alumium just enough to do a deap clean of any oxydized aluminum residue.
You are beautiful man thank you for this gym. I was trying to figure out how to get that alternator bracket out look at everywhere under the sun and the only information but it was viable came from yourself dusty brother happy wrenching.
Blows my fucking mind they are still selling tons of vehicles with this system. I recommended the 6.2 to my stepdad and I can see this coming already
I understand it’s even gotten worse from AFM (active fuel management
)to DFM (dynamic fuel management) with more collapsible lifters and failures before the customers have even purchased them new.
I had no idea this job was that involved. I'm currently using the range technology device to keep my Yukon in V8 mode until I'm brave enough to attempt this......
I wouldn’t until you have to. If you have v4 turned off it would most likely see a misfire from the dod lifters rather than a bent pushrod, so just let it ride until you have trouble (my thought)
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage ok I'll wait then. I just figured preventive maintenance for this would be better than when it actually goes disabling the vehicle and having to get a tow. I'm currently @ 115k on my 2015.
My son had a tuned as he called it for v8 only. I told him the same thing. You still have the DOD lifters. They will fail.
@@flatliners2011 I have 142K on my 2015, no sign of trouble. Truck has been perfect since day one. minus the safety recall BS.
I have the repair manual but it is unclear how to make all those changes so Thank you for your videos. I can share the digital file is super large but I am sure you have it too.
Love this video. I been a GM Fan most of my adult life. I say this with great pain my next truck will be Ford or Toyota.
I bought the last year of the V8 Toyota Tundra. I’d wait to see how the v6 twin turbo is going. I’m hearing some hiccups
Your videos are great! Really wish you had one for replacing fuel injectors. Wife’s 2016 Denali has a bad one I think. I don’t know where to start but think I could do it with your step by step videos. Keep it up!
They are very difficult on this model because they are in so tight. It is hard to remove the fuel rail, they have o rings to deal with, and they will have a lot of debris fall into the cylinders, so that’s why I left them alone. If you watch the “Sundae drive” channel he has some more info on them
I just did this job my self, let me know and I can guide you
watch. watch wes work.. 1 yr ago.. you need all new everything. like 1,300$.. is the car worth it. took him 3 goes to get it right. parts cannon.. anything you take off, cant re use..
@@harrywalker968 it's a 2016 Denali, what do you mean is it worth it?
Thanks man.. you made this process a breeze.. just a regular joe trying to save a dollar
Excellent teardown video and narrative!
Excellent video. Thank you so much for sharing this information.
SWEET Video dude. real Thorough about the work. AND its alot of work !
EXCELLENT
Thorough explanation
Great filming
Want u 2 work on my engine
Keepem coming
Excellent instruction. Thank you
60,000 Views and only 60 comments ? Excellent ! Excellent Video ! Ego - Less !
I kinda feel like it also. I replaced the spark plugs and it ran much better. Now it’s showing multiple misfire code without any responsible cylinder. It idles better but not like it used to.I’ll have to keep on fishing. I saw a code tool on Summit racing that deletes the AFM but not sure if it’s too late for me and worth it. I’m not going to keep the Yukon much longer because we don’t drive it anymore
Wow great job!!
Great video I’m going to start this project soon.
If all gm vehicles from 2015 to 2020 has the AFM problem why don’t GM makes a recall to fix this issue if it’s been going on for years I just spend almost $10k fixing my 2016 Escalade esv cylinder 4 because of this issue had the dealer change lifters,camshaft cylinder valves gasket,come on @GM do something about it
Awful
Awesome video. Great camera, lighting and audio. I really thought I would have to pull my engine but you clarified that isn't necessary. Can you comment on leaving the original oil pump installed? I have read it should be replaced with lower pressure version to eliminate excessive oil being sprayed on cylinder walls when not utilized by the AFM system. You mentioned leaving the old pump in place and just curious if that is ok? Thanks again!
The oil pump is a bit tricky. Removing it would require pulling the engine (or at least lifting the engine enough to drop the oil pan. Then on installation it has to be perfectly centered or you can lose oil pressure. There are also oil lines in the pan with seals that have to line up just right. My understanding is the pump is a variable flow pump to allow more or less for the DOD and if you leave the stock one it continues to regulate to the normal oil pressure, just not needing to fluctuate since it’s more constant flow without the DOD. Mine has maintained the same oil pressure as before the procedure. I would definitely contact Brian Tooley racing about the pump as well as they have been super helpful.
Excellent DIY video. Kind of makes you brave enough to give it a go. Curious, what was the deciding factor for you to decide to do this? Was it just the DoD delete, or the noise, or were there any codes thrown?....never mind, I see below you have answered my queries already.
What a complicated pile of junk.. the vehicle WAS a premium priced vehicle and should not need this job. This is why i drive pre 1980 cars and my wife drives a Hyundai.. they dont brake down or need this job.
AFM Ls engines are useless.i could have removed the engine from any of my cars in the same this took.
Great video sir and well done.looks like you have done this before.
Steve in Australia
@@stevedriver1476 I love my 2000 Silverado. This has been disappointing. I have 2 Toyotas and my Silverado now Why I traded my GMC Yukon for a Toyota Sequoia
ruclips.net/video/cNm9rtx0GHQ/видео.html
what are symptoms of feilure of cams and lifters??
@@ferganibelkacem4889 you will hear a squeaking sounds, get misfires from a bent pushrod, or hear a ticking. Here is an example: Bad lifter noise sound Yukon Tahoe Silverado Sierra Escalade Diagnose bad lifter GM Chevy truck suv
ruclips.net/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/видео.html
Yup I will be sticking to gen 3 and 4 LS’s I’m not dealing with all that 😂
All makes that have done a variation of cylinder deactivation has had problems I wonder why?
Why keep pushing it?
Awesome and detailed video!
Great video and tutorial. I hope I can print a copy of the transcript. Just an observation; it looked like(time:13:24-14:38) the exhaust manifold, on both sides, had a crack at bolts between cylinders 3&5 and 4&6. Wondering if that would effect DOD lifter performance. Thoughts?
The manifold are made that way to my knowledge. There are slit reliefs there and on some of the bolt holes as I remember
Thank you...definitely needed this
Thanks for your videos man I'm new to the newer motors with dod on them an I had to buy a 2014 gmc it's all good but I'd like to get into it before it's not good anymore tho lol
It’s a big job, so I’d just keep an eye on it and as soon as you have problems jump on it. Be familiar with it.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage I'm going to do it soon it's got 155k on the truck was naver run hard at all like I run one just shocked me how different thay are to before the dod stuff iv looked up alot on it tho definitely like your more detailed videos you should try an get money off RUclips for your videos alot of people do
That timing chains a real bugger if it falls off the bottom..any pointers on getting that back were it belongs?
I have a 2014 GMC SIERRA WITH THE SAME MOTOR 4 LIFTERS WENT OUT I AM GOING TO BE PUTTING A 6.0 LS MOTOR AND GET RID OF THIS HEADACHE
Looking at doing a full AFM/DOD delete on my truck. Checking to see what Extra gaskets etc would be needed: exhaust manifold gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, HP fuel lines, HPFP gasket, head gaskets, water pump gaskets, valve cover gaskets, injector seals (if injectors are removed), crank pulley bolt, vacuum pump gasket (if removed), VLOM cover/gasket, timing cover gasket/rtv, cam-phaser bolt, cam plate/cover, and HPFP cam follower.
Crankshaft holder tool. Oil pump alignment tools (if pump is removed).
Does this sound about right?
Yes. I have a lot of the list in the video description, as well as one I show in this video
ruclips.net/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/видео.htmlsi=zSrT7ES0dRjptKsK
i was scrolling some other video’s and came across your second part and watched it as well. Appreciate the info and how-to steps!
Excellent Danny. Ty
its easier to grab the metal around the spark plug with needle nose and pull them right out.
So long as it doesn’t damage them
I’m about to start on my L87 any differences you may think off that may help me on this journey! Thanks for the great video
@@edvardotovar3266 i believe the cam phaser is different, and may not have as much luck waking the chain off the cam gear. If you have Dynamic Fuel management instead of active fuel management (DFM vs AFM) it may have more collapsible lifters
Nice video. Tried watching another on here but the added music ruined it. Not watchable
Great Job on the content.
Are you a mechanic by trade? You made this look easy
I’ve just practiced over the years and making tutorials helps me research and present it as accurately as possible. Just hoping to help others in my same situation
Great video I just don’t understand all the different colored marker lines everywhere ? Even when you have timing marks from factory that shows correct timing references. Thanks
Yes, that’s just me being over cautious with some reference points since I cannot see the crank timing mark with the oil pump installed. In the end, the arrow points down and if the crank has not moved (and is locked with the tool as you see in the video) you should be in good shape
Main bearings, camshaft bearings and connecting rod bearings might possibly need to be changed also probably should pull the engine out and disassemble clean inspect and reassemble then install at this point you are close anyway to pulling it you have disconnected basically everything.
I inspected the cam bearings and there were no grooves on the cam in that spot. I also cleaned them all out. You won’t see the rod bearings, so unless the engine is coming out it’s a lot more work. I caught the noise very quickly. For those who run it until it breaks it’s much more risky. At that point, a replacement engine is probably a better option
I think the easiest way to delete this is not to by a GM product in the first place, if GM can't be smart enough to get rid of that system on their own.
I have heard about 40% of the lifter failures are non DOD cylinders like yours. Seems the problem is not the DOD system. Maybe oil starvation ?
Yes, I agree. I think the long intervals that they say for oil changes causes problems, even causing blockage for regular lifters. I thought I’d have DOD problems before a regular lifter. They may have even used cheaper lifters to compensate for the more expensive dod lifters. My 2000 Silverado is still running quiet at 253,000 miles
Clearly the best video on removing the chain from the vvt gear. Question: was anything used to flush metal from the engine?
In video 2 you’ll see where we check the passages, and dumped oil over some of the engine (you could even dump oil down through the valley). We also removed the filter screen in video 2 and luckily did not find any metal pieces. ruclips.net/video/nB6fOblDBNQ/видео.htmlsi=ikjqwAJ55R_GfVuF
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage nice ty
This guy is amazing…..KUFFFF!
Always great videos!
The hemi cylinder deactivation damage is just as bad. Ford only began deactivation on the coyote in 2021. So should be a couple more years still before we are watching videos on how to repair them
This is scary for me...6 mo. ago just bought a 2017 Yukon 5.3, afm/dod system with 107,000 miles. I was being told recently by others that i should be using the range afm disabler. Kinda worries me I'm going to have some hugh expenses coming my way. It appeared to be well kept by one owner and it runs good 😮🤔.
Change the oil 3-4,000 miles instead of what it suggests. You can try turning it off for now. It’s just not a very reliable valvetrain
@dannyjohnsonsgargage
I just now had the oil changed at 4000 and had a transmission flush when I bought it 6 mo.ago. Plan on having plugs/wires replaced soon. Is there any certain one of the range afm disabler that I should buy for it. Appreciate your answer....thanks.
Maybe you had mentioned this, how many miles before you began to notice the lifters squeaking? Did you turn off DOD ever? If yes, when did you turn this off compared to when lifters failure began to take place?
This was a normal lifter failure, not a DOD one. I had not turned dod off. It had 94,000 miles at the time of the lifter failure.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Just curious what type/brand of oil you were using? I have read that oil contamination or fouling due to oil quality or not changing regularly can contribute to this problem.
@@bobbromm2269 I do believe it is a huge factor where GM has extended the time between oil changes. I was even running full synthetic and changing at 30% oil life left. It was a regular lifter that failed on mine. I believe the fact the system uses oil pressure in the small holes of the dod lifters that contamination can be a cause for their failure GM DOD/AFM Lifters operation explained, failures, how to delete. Why GM engines fail 5.3L 6.2L
ruclips.net/video/gEcxI2nwwxE/видео.html
Excellent job 👏 👍 👌
Do you know if there was a class action lawsuit against this problem? Seems like GM should've issued a recall.
I think there was and you can submit repair costs for compensation. I need to look into it more myself
Fantastic job explaining everything and showing it clearly. How did you know for sure it was required?
Mine was actually having noise from a bad lifter (see link below), and I wanted to delete the four-cylinder mode before it failed and bent a push rod
ruclips.net/video/cx4_-FGXCVE/видео.htmlsi=GCExGDUvqmIUlqmv
Thank you for the kind words as well.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage do you recommend just do the lifters or whole dod
@@jasondecluebass1012 I would say full DOD since it’s not much more work and the dod lifters are prone to failure
doesnt matter if p/rods ect are in order or not.. unless wear or damaged.. why TDC. the lifters are not solid.??... is this vid for 15 yr olds that know nothing about modern engines, like, clips. torque, too much info..knowing the faults with chev engines,,why buy one..@@dannyjohnsonsgarage
Have seen people do a stage 2 cam and get spun bearings after dod delete/cam swap is this something to worry about or is there anything to prevent this?
Just bought a btr dod delete kit with factor non dod l86 cam
I live in cedar City. Do you have someone you would recommend in the area that would do good work and is reasonably priced for this DOD delete?
The timing chain does not come off easy at all. Two mechanics tried this trick didn’t work. Rest of this video is great
It would be cool to have a removable link setup as long is it was reliable
Great video, I was able to use a lot of it when I completed my DOD delete. I do have one question - were you aware at the time you put a L83 dod delete camshaft in your 6.2? 193/199 .502"/.494" 114LSA vs 200/207 .551"/.524" 116.5 LSA
Did you have to retune everything to remove fuel because of the smaller cam?
My friend who is a GM fanatic and did the tune is who helped pick the cam out. I’m not sure what else he did on the tune other than set the redline higher for dod to not come on and mentioned giving me some things the Camaro gets but suv/trucks did not for fuel economy. In the end it drove just the same and I didn’t notice any smell of it running rich
Why use the shorter Chromoly Pushrods on a stock valvetrain components?
BTR told me to do so because they are LS7 lifters. According to them, they require 7.80” over factory 7.85”
Why did GM build the AFM and DOD in the first place? To try to meet the goverment's fuel mileage goals? My 2008 GMC with AFM gets terrible MPG, so what is the point?
Yes. And mine has only lost 1-2mpg max without the system
GM knew that this setup would fail. They had tried this decades ago, and it didn't work.
I’m disappointed with GM. I grew up with reliable suburbans and this Yukon has had too many problems for being new and more expensive
Great video
Be aware that compressing that timing chain tensioner can and will break it because they are brittle from oil and years of service. After that, you are stuck blowing the front of the truck apart (4x4) to get the oil pan and pump out. If your lucky, it wont snap and go smooth like in the video.
Yeah, always a risk with old parts.
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Im going to attempt to see if i can move that pump forward enough to get the tensioner bolts out. If not i guess i have a long day tomorow
@@fixxerautomotive4917 just remember that pump has to go back on perfectly centered or you can lose oil pressure. I’ve heard with a new pump it’s okay to bolt right up. There are videos out there about removing the pump cover and putting .020 shims around it on 3 edges to center it if you don’t the have centering tool (the tool I bolted up was useless so I just went with not messing with the pump at all. There is also an electrical connection for the oil pump that goes into the pan that will not be possible to access (going down into the passenger side). Another bad design and problem to worry about
@@dannyjohnsonsgarage Yeah, i kind of picked that up from your video. I was thinking of using the alignment tools for the vertical alignment and using a micrometer for the horizontal alignment- maybe take a reading from the block to the pump housing. I beleive that the electrical connector will move forward with the pump if im not mistaking. I'm hoping that it will rock forward enough to get those tensioner bolts out because I'm trying real hard to save this customer as much money as possible on this repair and not have to charge him the full 32 hours that it is supposed to take to do this job by the book. I am very disappointed in this design for sure- we used to be able to work around removing the pan to change oil pumps- looks like those days are gone. One more step towards future disposable engines and vehicles- things that take more labor to repair than they are worth. they could have easily made the timing cover but up against the end of the oil pan instead of the top and allowed full service of timing components and oil pump without oil pan removal.
@@fixxerautomotive4917 I believe there were also some circular gaskets coming from the oil pan to the pump to watch out for to properly seal. Looking back I wondered if a new chain with a removable link would have been a better option.
great job. what is the average cost to have this done?
Here is a breakdown How much does it cost to replace a camshaft and lifters? GM trucks 6.2L 5.3L Yukon,Tahoe. Silverado
ruclips.net/video/RZGr7xT6wLA/видео.html
Great job
After watching you do it , i think im gonna throw away my Ls motor and go old school 350 , i thought i was ready to venture into the new way , until i seen this ..i dont think i can change , i like my oil pump where it was , with two bolts on the pick up tube, never did like that distrubutor , that drives the oil pump through the gear on the end of the cam ...that oil pump on that motor... , i dont want anything to do with that , i suppose there's a special tool to center it ( expensive tool , one-time use tool ? ) can i modify a front engine/timing cover (drill holes in a spare one ) to align that oil pump ?
You can take the cover off the oil pump and center it with feeler gauges, but it’s all a mess. I heard installing a new pump is fine, but you can’t reach the harness without removing the oil pan
This is not an LS...its an LT....Direct injection....
Sad the way we get screwed for GM appeasement of government at our expense. But for persons that have not experienced this failure yet the Holley plug in the diagnostic port module avoids the cylinder cut out. Thus all cylinders fire all the time. It stays a V8. Another thing that works is to run your automatic 10 speed transmission in L9 (don’t use D) and again stays all V8 all the time. The mileage never changes. I’ll say it again same mileage, no loss in gas mileage. The difference in gear ratio is less than 0.1 difference between 9th and 10th gear. You’ll not see any change in anything.
Yeah, however until the ports are plugged, it can still get oil leaking past the solenoid and activate 4 cylinder mode and fail
Awesome
Did you have to pry pretty hard to get the chain to come off?
Yeah, may be best to look into a good removable chain link and attachment alternative.
All from the perspective of sitting in the driver seat, we have one ground connected to the back left of the engine block, one connected to that left side head on the back, and one on the back right side of the engine block. Should the one on the back right side of the engine block be connected to the head on the right side? Since the block already has a ground? Trying to see why we have a check engine light, P0333, knock sensor 2 circuit high bank 2, and P2138 Throttle/Pedal Position Sensor/ Switch "D"/"E" Voltage Correlation. Hoping we have a simple ground issue. Can’t find any plugs that didn’t get plugged in.
Yeah, start with grounds. The junction boxes under hood are also known to leak ruclips.net/video/6XxKA0wo_QQ/видео.htmlsi=lUC5g8KRFQqqt28m
Have a 2020 Diesel AT4 fuel pump issue, metal shavings all throughout system. $13k quote. No warranty, has over 110k miles
It’s really too bad the quality is so bad
good job body congratulations
insanity that this is required at 96K miles
I just test drive AT4 today, I think I won’t purchase any GMC with DFM, it is so bad design
I now have a Sequoia (last of the V8s and wouldn’t trust the new v6 TT, hybrid at the moment) and that was what I was most comfortable with
Toyota Sequoia Features and review video: The last V8. Old reliable. Hidden features
ruclips.net/video/9GSCJoQKKOI/видео.html
I think that taking the cab out from engine with frame then work on is a better way to do this tedious job.
Yes, it would if people have a lift to use