2014-2018 Subaru Forester Low/Weak/No Spray Windshield Washer Fix, Nozzle Replacement and Adjustment
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- Опубликовано: 7 окт 2019
- This video will walk you through the procedure to access the area of the 2014-2018 Subaru Forester to repair the windshield washer tubing connectors, as well as the nozzles. There is also a portion later in the video where I talk about adjusting the nozzle spray location.
Replacement Tee Connectors Used:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Plastic Clip Part Number:
91486KJ000 CAP-COWL PANEL,LOWER
91486KJ010 CAP-COWL PANEL,UPPER 
Авто/Мото
Wife told me that the front windshield washer was not working. I popped the hood and tried the washer; saw fluid shooting up near the center of the cowling. I looked at the surrounding/affected areas and knew significant take-apart would be required.
I went online and found a link to this video; watched the video; and confidently went and made the repairs. (I do not think I would have been able to figure out how to remove the windshield corner pieces ... without breaking them.)
Thank you for the excellent video.
Just a couple tricks I found. (1) if you use the plastic y from Subaru it will disintegrate quickly again. I replaced it with a 3/16 brass tubing tee with barbs. $4.00 but the last one I will ever need. (2) The Y that breaks is located below and to the driver's side from the driver's wiper post (You can just feel follow the inlet tube. The Y is the first stop.. (3) By now anyone working on their own car needs to have the hard plastic attachment insert removal tools. For $8 for a good set they are a lifesaver. You don't have to remove the two trim pieces on the corners of the windshield but you do have to pop out the part of it that goes through the cowl, that is step one in the video. Using your plastic tool just insert horizontally from where it overlaps the cowl between the cowl and the trim piece about 1" from the bottom of the trim piece and pry up. You can feel the clip,. It is easy to pop up (Pulling from the top can break the insert clip, Prying up from between is the way to go. You don't need to remove the part. You just need to separate the trim from the cowl so the cowl can be pulled away from the car a bit. (4) Where the video shows using pliers to pop out the white plastic rivets holding the cowl down, look carefully. Those square things on top of each white fitting are the keepers. The white things are not supposed to be removed. All you need is your handy dandy trim removal spatula, insert between the square part and press in and lever them out. Easy pecheesy. If you try and use pliers to remove the square pins you will most likely break them Prying up from between the parts is the way to do it. Once everything is loose you can pull up the cowl a little, (5) push the hose where you disconnected it, and pull down the tubes and Y. If will come out about 3-4 inches. Notice you don't have to remove the wipers for this repair. You only need to do that if you need to remove the cowl to do more extensive repairs. But you can get to everything but the actual spray nozzles this way. Everything goes back together easy. There should be no forcing anything. Just make sure the cowl is properly fitted to the window as shown in the video.
www.amazon.com/XBRN-12-Pack-Removal-Fastener-Remover/dp/B07RJ2RSKB/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=car+trim+removal+tools&qid=1593010772&sr=8-15
I woudl recommend the same, use a metal barb connector and never need to revisit again. The other hose connector Subaru uses seems to hold up much better bu tehy went cheap on this Y connector. The plastic ones from Amazon broke already and I replaced it in March earlier this year, so heat likely was the cause of it being brittle that destroyed before the cold.
Where do you get the 3/16 brass tubing tee with barbs?
Was fortunate to see the reason for low pressure to nozzles was due to hole in the tubing- but at a spot right before diving into the cowl. One brass 3/16 barbed connector worked like a charm.
Thanks buddy! I did the job and found that the square clips on the long plastic piece come out by using a body tool (looks like a flat shovel cut out in the middle - two flat prongs) sliding under the square retainer and popping it up and out.
Thank you for this video. The dealership wanted $1,500 for this repair, but using this video it took me 20ish minutes to follow along, a trip to Home Depot and $5 for the parts, and then another 15 minutes to make the repair and reinstall everything. Great job on this video.
Thanks so much for posting this - made the job so much easier/faster. Every step was spot on and professional. I got the "Y" pipe in a small box of adapters at the local Auto Zone. Total repair cost of $3.98.
This video was super helpful. I accidentally broke the middle flimsy tab on the side cowling, which was probably inevitable. But yeah, it was a super easy fix once I knew the steps. Awesome video.
I also did not take the wipers off, and did not take the trim pieces off the sides of the cowl, just used a clip spatula to get the first clip loose on the bottom of the side trim. When I was done , the lower clip on the side trim snapped back into place easily. I used a 6mm deep well socket to compress the clip flanges from below, and a clip spatula to get the clips loose. Also, I got a brass 3/16" T connector instead of replacing the plastic one. It took about 15 minutes total, and saved me a bundle of money. Thanks to James Busse below!
Hi Mark - thanks for your tip. Totally super helpful. I removed nothing except the 4 clips closer to the drivers side. Was able to gently lift up the cowling and pull out the Y piece. It had a big crack in the middle. Replaced it and zip tied it so it would not slip. I also used the same zip ties as I snapped off a few of those plastic pieces. All good.
@@Okied0gMine has a hole in it, appears that it can be hit by sunlight and is white. It should be made of black plastic for UV proof reasons. But lasted almost 11 years so I'll just replace it.
THANK YOU for posting this very useful video! After buying a $6 kit on Amazon that has the fittings and supply hose, I was able to make the repair in about 45 minutes. A decayed and broken Y-fitting (that splits the washer fluid for the two nozzles) was the issue that needed attention. I replaced the fitting with no problem and then wrapped the connection with electrical tape to shield the new fitting from the Sun's UV rays.
One suggestion I have to your process is to test the sprayers before finishing. I reattached the supply hose from the reservoir (by the drivers side corner) and then tested the sprayers to ensure the two nozzles were working properly. Then I finished attaching the 8 pieces of hardware, the two end cowls, and the wiper blades.
Thanks for posting this video. That was hugely helpful. I ready through the comments and was able to do this by only removing 4 of the clips and gently extracting the assembly. No cowling to remove. I used the small zip ties to secure the hoses on the brass Y and more zip ties for the broken clips. Voila! Very useful!
Thank you for this video! You saved me about $180. My dealership failed the car for PA mechanical inspection because the spray was weak (but it was effective!) The Y-connector on my forester was pretty much toast. It just crumbled away.
QUICK TIPS about the windshield wipers: Put long pieces of masking tape on the windshield to mark the positions of the wipers/blades before you start. Note that the splines for the windshield wipers are very delicate, and these are tapered (flare out at the bottom of the posts). Be careful not to destroy these when replacing the wipers. The retaining nuts need to be sufficiently tightened to pull the wiper body down onto the axle. Take care not to over tighten.
The end-cap trim pieces are exceptionally poorly designed. I would say single-use. The lower connector that you popped first has two tabs that are north/south oriented. This lower connector is connected into the large cowl that spans the bottom of the windshield. Were is possible to slide thin pliers under the end cap, but above the cowl, and squeeze the tabs together (from rear of car to front of car), it would be an easier removal. One of these tabs on the left side end cap broke off upon removal. Link for a new part:
parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__Forester/Cowl-Seal-Left-Cowl-Panel-SideCowl-Seal/49308995/91423SG010.html
Instead of buying a new one, I just used a little clear silicone sealant to hold it to the metal body panel.
Now that I've done this one time, this lower connector point on the end cap seems to be the only point that needs to be popped. Be very careful of the small (most poorly designed!) connector which is on the lateral aspect of the end cap. If you hold your hand on the end cap above where the flimsy little connector is located, and stabilize the end cap by holding it to the metal frame of the car, I suspect you should be able to pop the bottom connector (end cap to long cowl) and save the tiny little side connector from breaking.
THANK YOU for making this video! Watching it just helped me repair our 2014 Forester. Like others, my issue was a Y that deteriorated and broke. Replaced it with a T I bought for $4 at our local Advance Auto Parts location. As you indicated, getting those initials cowls off was the hardest part. It took me a while to figure out how to do it. Your video was super helpful as I kept going back and playing the part with the cowls multiple times to figure it out. Thank you!!
Another satisfied customer! This fix was easier than I thought it would be. Thanks for the link for parts.
Glad it helped you. Hopefully you didn't break any clips and learned from my lesson found haha.
Thank you so much. Money is tight right now and you saved me a whole bunch. Plus, if I can DIY anything, I generally enjoy the process. This video has everything necessary and is made really well! 👍👏
I’m having this problem for the past year...this is my next assignment to do this weekend. Thank you.
Worked for me, thanks. Leaking at the Y connector, it was worn and brittle. About 30 minutes work, patience, and 0.95$ for the connector and I was done.
This is incredible, I cannot thank you enough! 2018 Outback (and 2017 Impreza where this may come in handy soon) Turns out my Y connector had previously been replaced but they messed up tucking the hose when they did that replacement and the hose was sheared open from the movement of the wipers under the cowling. New hose and a coupler, couple bucks!! Thank you again!!
I did it! Thank you! This was freaking awesome and saved me a bunch of money. Only cost seven bucks for a new line and connectors on Amazon.
Glad it helped you out!
One of the T's under mine developed a large hole in it. Ironically the whole still pointed at the windshield. So I let it go for a couple of years. But thank you for making this video!!!! Help me out tremendously!!!
Hi Lessons Found, This is a very neat and useful video. Thanks to this, I could fixed this problem on a 2015 Forester. I needed to use only 1 Y fitting from the 30 pack that I got per your suggestion in the video description.
A few experiences I would like to share for others who might be trying to do this job.
1. It might be a good idea to mark the position of the wiper blades (sticker / marker) on the windshield so you can put them back to make the same arcs / sweeps. Else, you might overshoot the glass on the driver side if you go over by a few degrees when putting that blade back.
2. I got the tool to pry out those clips. But to my surprise I found that every one of them was already broken (unknown vehicle history !!). This vehicle also had some cabin noise reported from the dash. May be these broken clips were a cause, I dont know. So there was no need of the tool. My learning - Its a good idea to check whether you need more clips (listed below) or a tool to save the existing ones.
3. I found more part numbers for those clips (apart from the ones provided by 'Lessons Found') at www.subarupartsdeal.com/ which had good pictures. I then ordered the following clips online from parts.subaru.com/ . There are good discounts for online orders if picked up at local dealerships. Total before tax $ 22.38 . The same parts bought across the counter at the same dealership would have cost ~ $62 . But obviously, there will be a short wait for online orders to get in our hands.
P/N Quantity Price EA Description
91486KJ000 6 $ 0.82 Cap Cowl Panel. (Lower)
91486KJ010 6 $ 0.82 Cap Cowl Panel UP. (Upper)
91423SG000 1 $ 3.92 Cowl Seal (Right) Cowl Panel Side.
91423SG010 1 $ 3.92 Cowl Seal (Left) Cowl Panel Side.
909130051 2 $ 2.35 CLIP
4. I did not detach the hose supply line initially. Anyway mine had crumbled at the "Y" junction. Also, detaching any more joints than needed might break those joints too and need new fittings in those places too. And every new fit seems to need a cut to the length of the hose by a quarter inch, shortening its total length. By not detaching the supply line, I avoided all those overheads.
Nice info, thanks!
I wish you didn't have to buy 30, but it was the easiest/cheapest way I found to get the part needed. It's unfortunate you cant buy just one or two from subaru for a couple bucks. (though I don't know that I would trust an OEM replacement for these disintegrating pieces). Thanks for the additional info for anyone else.
Also one thing I noticed is that if you broke any of the clips retaining the two plastic pieces on either side of the windshield you may experience a wind rattle at high speed.
I would like to add a few tidbits:
1. The "next retaining clip" at the cowl at around 3:50 mark that breaks easily, once you do the initial pull up, put a flashlight from the engine bay and you can see the little plastic head and help it out with a flathead screwdriver. I broke one but on the next one saw that it is accessible from the backside. James below mentions that complete removal is not even necessary.
2. The clips at 5:16 can easily be removed with a clip removal tool and a tiny flathead screwdriver. Use the screwdriver to open up the white receiver part of the flip, then pull from the top with the clip removal tool (with some force) and the black part pulls out with the white receiver staying in place. The receiver just needs to open up so the black part with bulbous tip can be removed.
If you are ever removing clips, some will break, how many depends if you have the clip removals tools. Got to HF and get a set to reduce the number of different types of clip you need to purchase.
Thank you for this insightful video. I have a 2018 outback with a similar issue, however I didn't need to take anything apart! Your video helped me identify where everything was placed allowing me to pin point the problem. The tube or spray duct leading from the engine bay was pinched between the hood and the frame of the car. Then, I was able to reposition the tube and everything went back to normal. FYI the spray jet Nozzles can be removed without having to take everything apart, something I learned along the way. All I needed to do was lift the hood and gently yet firmly pull the nozzle toward me and out it came. I was able to gently remove the nozzle from the tube and blow though it in order to remove any dust or debris that accumulates over time and presto, work like new! Thanks again!
Cool! I'm glad it helped you. I have an 18 Outback as well. I'm hoping to not have to do this procedure again. Thanks for the tip about the nozzles!
Thanks for helping out a brother. Your video saved me some time and headaches. Picked up the Y hose connector from a local garage. Did break one of those pesty white cowel fasteners. You gotta get the pliers just right on the two white sneeze crimps under the metal mount plate. Oh well, replaced with a zip-tie.
Thank you for such a detailed video! Wish I’d looked for it sooner. Easy $5 fix after this showed the hard part
Thank you so much for this video. The Y in my 2015 had cracked. Found a new Y at a car parts store and new Subaru and Toyota trim push rivets to re-attach the cover under the wipers. Thanks again for the very good video.
Amazing video from another Subaru owner who avoided getting swindled
This video is so helpful. Thank you. I replaced the factory "Y" pipe with a new black plastic one that everyone is selling and it eventually cracked again. I just found a brass "Y" pipe. It grips the hoses tightly but I added wire ties at each junction for good measure. Let's see the washer system, sun and heat crack this one! Joywayus 3/16" ID Hose Barb Y Shaped 3 Way Union Fitting Adapter Intersection/Split Brass Water/Fuel/Air. Item number 6GW-FER-204a. It's on that site from the guy that likes to launch himself into space :)
Hey Scott--How's your repair holding up? Think I have the same issue as you did. It looks like a white plastic "y" connector just before the drivers' side nozzle, right? (I can see the white plastic is cracked through the holes in the cowl, but can't quite tell if it's a Y or some other connector.) A hose-barb fitting with some zip ties seems like it should do the trick fine, but thought I'd check in.
@@scottmcalpine567 Hi Scott. Yes that sounds just like it. The brass Y pipe repair is still going strong.
Excellent video, I used this video to show me how to repair leaks in my wiper fluid line. Gonna start looking for one to fix the back wiper fluid line.
Thanks for the video! I had to replace the Y fitting (I found a nice one at NAPA) and clean out the nozzles. I would not of attempted to do this on my own if it wasn't for your video!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the guidance here. Very similar setup for a 2017 Impreza wagon. My problem was caused by a recent windshield replacement - they tore the hose leading into the plastic housing and I never caught it until months later (doesn't rain that often and hardly ever need to use the windshield fluid. I was never able to get the entire thing off but for me I was able to get at the broken hose area and patch it with some 1/4" tubing and couplers which I taped over just to make sure they don't loosen up over time.
I don't know if you mentioned this but it is also a good idea to take a picture of the windshield wiper arm placement. My first put back was not far enough down and the blade came up over the a pillar. Easy fix but could have been avoided had I taken a screen shot ahead of time.
2011 Forester here - no problem at all with the windshield washers - guess they got defective plastic. Watched the video to learn about cowl removal in preparation for a windshield replacement. Thanks for the video!
This helped a lot and I was able to fix mine in no time at all thank you!
Thank you for posting this. My 2013 Subaru Forrester stopped spraying windshield washer fluid and I discovered that the small hose became detached. Your video walked me through how to disassemble the parts required to access it and now all is good! Thanks again for taking the time to post:)
Glad it worked for you. Was it a similar process for a 2013? Any major differences?
@@LessonsFound Process was the same. Clips are hard to remove but I finally got them out!
@@9woodstone234 plastic clips are the worst on any car. I have all kinds of tools for them, and they always seem to break anyways.
@@9woodstone234 I'm hoping the procedure is the same (or similar) on my wife's 2013 Crosstrek.
I was able to fix my 2009 Forester X using these instructions. The side trim panels are a little different on the 2009 (and easier to remove, I think). Total time including running to Advance Auto Parts for a new nozzle was less than 2 hours. Thank you.
I used Product #24-5154-8 from Canadian tire , Vacuum Tee connector multi pack. Took the 4 clips off on the drivers side by compressing the white part of the clip and pushing it up. Then pried up the plastic , stuck my hand in and grabbed the 3 hoses by the driver side nozzle. Cut the old plastic fitting off 1/8 of an inch of the pipe and connected all three hoses with new fitting. $7 and 30 minutes
THANK YOU this video helped me with the exact same problem. I also used a barbed t-fitting from the little garden watering kit that I had at my house.
Bro this video was money. My hose connector fried or just crumbled to pieces somehow and I was bummed thinking I was going to have to bring my car in to the dealership for an expensive repair. Your video was well done and easy to follow and I am able to use my wipers again.
Glad it helped! It was an easy repair and I knew this would help some people. I had no idea this was as wide spread a problem with Subarus but as the views and comments show a lot of people are having the same issue. Crazy.
Excellent Video! I have the same problem and i just ordered the parts from Amazon. Thank you for this post.
Glad it helped!
Great video, thanks! The job is easier than it looks.
Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks for the video
very useful video, was able to fix that same issue and your video helped a lot, thanks!
Very helpful, thank you. Changed the nozzles on my '13 Outback. Slightly different but very much similar.
Hoping this procedure is what I'm going to have to do with my wife's 2013 Crosstrek. Thanks for posting regardless.
The same plastic T was broken on my 2015 Forester. I thought I had a plugged nozzle but the problem was that T. It seems to be a quality problem on that part. Thanks for the video.
You just saved me a lot of money. Thank you!!!!
Thanks for the video. The "Y" in my 2014 Forester just crumbled by itself!!! So, $3 and 20min and all back to normal.
Great video, very helpful, to the point and clear info close up views/pics, etc. One preventive measure folks might consider for the long term ... any plastic fittings you put back into the hose area of the cowling, coat them in liquid electrical tape, gorilla tape, etc, anything to protect them from assault by the sun. Sun shines direct into the vent holes of the cowl, and also reflects off windshield. Lotta solar radiation, which is what's causing the fittings to decay, become brittle and crumble, similar process that causes headlights to get cloudy or turn yellow. Hope this helps.
Great video. I wish I had looked for it BEFORE my wife had the dealer do this repair while the Forester was in for 2 recall repairs. I didn't know she was getting it done, nor would we know to ask the cost ahead of time. They charged $160 in labor for this 10-15 min job! A total ripoff, not to mention the poor original design. A little searching online showed me that this T-fitting decomposes in the sun, often failing in
Your video just helped me save a ton of money on labor compared to going through the dealer for this repair.
I was able to pickup the Y connector from O'Reillys in a pack with various sizes for $4.99.
Thank you for making this video.
Nice job. Great explanation and video!
Incredibly helpful thank you
Thank you! This was 100% helpful.
This was SO helpful! Thank you!
This is great! Have a burst hose going to the nozzles and was wondering how I was going to take this apart!
Thanks for the post. 2015 Forester, "Y" fitting was in leaking with a big hole. While i was in there, changed the lines and nozzles. Hope the fix will last another 100k miles.
Thanks so much for this video. Very helpful!
Thanks. Helped fix my 2016 Legacy.
You're welcome. Glad it helped!
Thank you, was very helpful!
Perfect, liked and subscribed!
Tanks a lot ! Help me fix my Forester 2015. Exact same little plastic piece. Was able to find replacement for 8$ (pack of 5 of various size, at Canadian Tire in Canada 😀)
thank you for your time and the video :)
Thanks just what I needed
Great video, thanks
Watched the vid took me ten min to do myself after watching. Great deatails fixed my 15 wrx!
Great video. 2014 Forester. The Y-barb connector was leaking, and just crumbled in my hands when I removed it. And yes, I broke the middle retaining clip when removing one of the plastic trim pieces.
Glad it helped you. Same here about the crumbling connector. It really makes me wonder why this is such an issue with Subarus.
@@LessonsFound When plastic connectors crumble like that, it is usually due to high heat or UV exposure. The straight barbs are not exposed and were in good shape. The y-barb is exposed, so maybe UV.
Happened to me as well. These parts should be more UV or heat resistant.
Life saver, bro!
thank you so much, great video. if it matters to anyone the connectors for the tube are 3/16ths size. got a replacement for ~$7 in BC Lordco just bringing the part to the counter and getting an equivalent. the clips are such a pain in the ass i just cut 3 of the 6 and replaced it with zip ties. a generic replacement would be nice if anyone knows one.
Thank you for creating and posting this video! It made the repair doable, removing the clips along the front was the most difficult part ... crappy design in my opinion.
Thank you for the video it helped me with my 2014 XT
No problem. I was a bit frustrated with the process when I did it, so I was hoping by making a video I could help someone out.
Lessons Found those 6 clips are the worst part, i broke the first one too!
@@Plymco_Pilgrim I don't know if you saw but I put the part numbers in the description if you want to get a replacement.
Thanks for the video!
of every car i have owned my 2015 forester has given me the most issues with all this little stuff and even the CVT failing at 30k.. My driver seat literally fell apart at 40 k they wouldnt cover under warranty, the winshield wiper resevoir sensor failed 2x causing the light to stay on and yes the spray thing also failing on the driver side. Thanks for posting this.. Also there is a horrible clunk in the left rear of the car thats been there since 0 miles and they still cant figure it out..
Thanks for the video, helped me find the problem by myself and avoided a trip to the mechanic.
Thank you!!! Just finished fixing my 2014 Forester. It was the y connector that was mush.
Now I wish I read the comment below where the guy replaced with a brass connector. I guess I'll just do that the "next time."
Hopefully there's not a next time!
I have to do this job and am glad to read the recommendation for the brass connector. That sounds like good advice.
Thank you for this video. I love doing simple repairs like this myself to save myself the time and money of the dealership.
The y barb was also crumbling from UV exposure. Why they didn’t use a UV stabilized part in the first place I will never know.
Nice. Broke my retaining clip because it didn’t pull straight out. The six part clips didn’t seem to work after squeezing the bottom…so I used the flat end of a socket and a panel popper to get the six pieces out.
HA! thanks for the video, I lucked out at step 2 I think. Found that the hose feeding the fluid was kinked >90 degrees under the firewall covering near the cowl. Had to be that way coming out of the factory. My father in law had the car for four years and never noticed it in his 10 minute rides :).....
Glad it was an easy fix!
Awesome thanks made the repair i under an hour with the parts run broke the side piece thourgh but is 20- zero so plastic was pretty brittle
Thanks for the video. No idea how you pulled out the side plastic triangle pieces though. Close up of the back of them would help a lot, to see how they are fixed.
At 3:53 I tried to show that. I couldn't get a good angle on showing how to remove them because it's one of those things that looks like it's making no movement (as you try to slide it out) then all of a sudden it pops out.
Great! Thank you!
Thank you!
Thanks for the Video! It helped to avoid the pitfalls of broken fasteners. I wonder why they always make those plastic fittings out of material that those little critters like to eat?
Was yours chewed by mice? My connector looked like it was burned and was all crumbled
Thank you for this video!
I would echo it's not necessary to remove the side plastic panels in order to remove the front console. I did and broke them all, lol.
I found a perfect Y connector at Napa auto parts (Portland, OR, USA). Item 2-634. Comes in a pack of 3 for $3.00.
Thank you for the part number from Napa. I was able to buy one and change it out
Thank you for the vid. I did those today, have to change 2 clips out of six...yes broke some of them... I think they cost $1.25 each. Also Subaru sell the whole hose set instead the only 3 way plastic tube...yup mine also break into pieces that’s why the spray doesn’t function. Yes cost me $34. Both corner retainer clip broke some tabs so i said as well change it...$5.60 per item..cost me $11.00 and some change. Project cost me $55.00. But just want my daughter to be safe when she drives when its raining.
Yeah, those clips suck. But hey, $55 is still cheaper than whatever the dealership would charge. Glad the video helped.
Lessons Found In deed, thank you very much again.
I had a hard time getting the 8 attach points to come cleanly off so I essentially 'destroyed' them and used zip ties to secure. It'll make the job much easier next time.
I'm repairing this the second time, repaired it back in March 2022. Luckily, the cowl pins came enough for a second job, a box of 10-12 with the connector it goes in was $10. I wasn't able to finagle them to come out. So cutting the bulb like piece at the bottom was much faster. I would recommend maybe taping it up with electrical tape or something that can insulate it from cold and heat to cover it up from the elements. I don't know if that will prolong if you used the plastic pieces but best bet is to go with a metal like I'm looking for this time. Don't want to revisit it ever.
Same here, thanks for the video . The "Y" in my girlfriends 2015 Forester shit the bed all by itself. Subaru should fix these for free since they break all the time.
What is the hose ID and OD size? Thanks. I may replace with better quality hose and fittings from McMaster Carr.
No need to buy a pry tool or tiny pliers. I used a standard drill “bit holder” and wiggled a bit while pressing up and this was super easy
Does anyone know the size of the tubing that I would need to purchase to replace broken tubing?
All you talented people who fixed this, would any of you happen to live near Tulsa, Oklahoma and be willing to help a widow fix this on 2018 Outback? It is outrageous what dealership charges.
5:45 I believe an upholster clip prybar would help immensely here. I use mine all over the Forester (wheel wells, door panels, engine bay, etc.). Amazon sells really good, cheap retainer clip bundles for each model year, fyi.
I actually have a set of those, from Amazon, probably the same one you do if you sort for 5 stars and just buy that one haha. I have always had mixed success with them, but they do have their purpose. I think I broke some in this repair because I simply didn't know the mechanism of how they popped out, or if they were supposed to be removed entirely or left in that cowl piece. Hopefully my "Lesson Found" helps others out there.
What size connector do I buy so I can have it in advance. Also, Is it good idea to get a few clips in advance also? or is that something that can wait a bit if broken?
Hi Jasmine, I put a link in the description to what I used as a replacement connector. It may be a good idea to get one or two extras clips if you think you will break them, but honestly if only one or two break that piece will still be mostly attached through all the other connectors, and you could get some at that time. You'd only be in trouble if you broke a lot of them. If you follow what I did in the video and squeeze at the bottom and push up you should hopefully not break them. I broke mine because I was trying to pry it up and put of the cowl piece, not realizing that they stay don't actually have to come completely out. Hope that helps. Let me know if you still have other questions.
Our 2013 Subaru Legacy’s windshield washer hose from the rear of the front fender to the sprayer has been totally eaten by a roden. How can that hose be replaced when I can’t see it?
Sorry, I am not familiar enough with that.
Hey thank you. Replaced the plastic Y but now my wipers wont move at all. Did I tighten them too much???
figured it out! So if you go to test the spray before reattaching the wiper blades (14mm bolts) and you shut off the car, there is a chance your wipers motor will have the wipers in the up position. If you then mount the wipers in the standard parked position, they won't be able to move properly. Take the wipers off. Turn on the car, operate the wipers and watch for the motors to move. set wipers to off position and ensure the motors are no longer moving. Turn off the car and mount your blades with the 14mm bolts. Hope that helps another idiot like me!
Anyonw know what the OD and ID are on that rubber tubing? I'd like to stock up on some check valves and straight & Y-connectors for future repairs. Thanks!
Not sure of the OD/ID, but here's a link for all the parts associated with the washer: parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2014_Forester-25L-CVT-Premium/49300520__6030907/WINDSHIELD-WASHER-FRONT-14MY-16MY/S13-875-01.html
There are two different length tubings on there, and they are about $6 each.
Part Number: 86655SG060 and 86655SG070 for the 2014 Forester
From the answers on the amazon product link I posted: the hose diameter Inner: 0.169"(4.3 mm); Outer: 0.267"(6.8 mm). Not sure if that is the actual spec.
Thanks for the video. 2015 Forester "Y" connection fell apart. Trip to auto parts store, $5 and fixed. Why does Subaru use such cheap parts?
Not sure they realize this is such a high failure item. Glad the video helped you out.
I am being charged $168 for this fix right now to pass an inspection. I feel like I’m being ripped off.
Question for you…am doing this on a 2016?Outback. Reassembled and noticed that any fluid/water that drains from the cowl was draining into the engine compartment, running down the fire-wall by the top of the strut. I don’t remember seeing this prior to disassembly, assuming that it was draining down in the wheel-well somewhere. Any ideas on what I reassembled incorrectly to cause it to drain here…if it indeed is incorrect? Thank you in advance.
This happened to me before, when I incorrectly bought a smooth ended fitting. You need to get one with a barb on the end so that it holds. If you don't have one that holds then the spray pressure will likely blow the tubing off the end. Hope that helps.
@@LessonsFound thanks much for the reply. Yep..all barbed and together. Appreciate the content.
What tool did he use for removing the square retainers with the white retainers in the bottom?
Needle nose pliers
Thank you for this. My nozzle on the right hand side is spraying down. The fluid doesn't reach the windshield. How to I fix this easily? Just take a knife to the nozzle and make sure that it's not blocked? Much appreciated. I hope I don't have to repair the whole nozzle. As this is a long process and it may be out of my league. Thanks for the demo and making it look easy as well.
If it looks like it's spraying out with force, just pointed down, you will probably just need to align the nozzle.
If it's just tricking it could be clogged.... You could try something small like a needle to unblock it. If you can't find a blockage it may be one of the plastic splitters/tubing connectors has disintigrated and would need to be replaced. If it has disintegrated it is possible too that a small plastic piece may be lodged in the tubing.
If it's just the nozzle alignment you can use something like tweezers to realign it. Let me know and I'll try to help you out.
7:35 where did these broken nozzle/clips laying on the ground come from? Are those what were clogged? Was it the sprayers or something in the line? The video is helpful I just don't know what was actually broken.
Sorry for the super late reply. I somehow missed your question. The broken nozzle you are referring to is actually just one of those 'Y' hose connections. It came from the portion of the tubing where it splits to the two different spray nozzles. They were not clogged, just crumbled. It was a piece connected in the tubing, so not the nozzles themselves. I did mention in the video I could see someone potentially having it where one of these things crumbled and sent a piece down the rubber tubing, hence clogging the nozzle and causing a weak spray that way. Not sure if that has ever happened.
Hey, I fixed this but when I put everything back together the wipers now only operate at one speed. Any idea why?
Not entirely sure but maybe make sure you didn't tighten them down too much. You don't want them to fly off but you don't want the motors to be overworked either.
@@LessonsFound Turns out if you take off the wiper arms you may have to reset the motor and blade alignment. There are guides on google